I like to use the nitrile gloves you can buy at the local hardware store I put a pair on every time I am servicing a customer on my pool route. They keep me from touching reagents or getting and chemicals on my hands. They work great!
I took the light out of the pool yesterday. The seal on it wasn't seated properly and let water to come into the housing. Took it apart, drained the water out of it, and dried it with a towel. I put it back together and tested it by putting it under water to check for bubbles and didnt see any. The GFI was reset and now the light works again. YAY! Thank you. Love your channel and get alot of helpful info and encouragement to do these repairs and maintenance myself.
Thank you for your input. The light was replaced when we bought the house a few weeks ago. I noticed that the light has water in it today when we were swimming. I have an electrician coming tomorrow to look at it.
Glad to hear it and congratulations!. There’s a little bit of a learning curve to figure out your individual pool but I’m positive you will have it down in no time. You might want to even look at my membership website poolschooler.com where I have exclusive Members Only con tent that includes pool specific checklists for weekly monthly and seasonal service as well as chemical she shoots and product links to products that I myself using my service. And it gives you more direct access to me via chats. But even if you don’t do that we should be able to find most everything you need to maintain your own pool through my channel except for really major stuff which I tend to suggest people hire a licensed and insured pool repair person for things like that.
Nice video,, i have a question.. dont you have to bleed the system out, when you open the pump basket? Also dont you have to fill the baket with water before close it.? Thank you.
Typically you shouldn't have to. The air should purge itself out through the return side of the system, unless you have some sort of air leak in the system that keeps adding air to it. So in a properly operating system, no you don't.
@@seekgodfirst1605 i think you might be talking about a floating weir. They are rare. And work well. Most skimmers have a weir gate where the basket needs to stay down.. hence the rock. In order to trap debris and not let the pump basket get clogged.
Nice video. Thanks for posting it. I came here looking for tips to maintain my own pool. TBH I thought your multi tool thing was overkill. Then yesterday I lifted my skimmer lid and found a baby copperhead curdled up in there. He was not happy to be disturbed. Let's just I will be using something other than my finger to open the lid moving forward.
ShaneTracy Hamlin wow. That could’ve been a bad thing. Ya. I’ve come across black widows, brown recluse, scorpions and rattlers inside skimmer lids. The first time I had a black widow run across my finger I decided it was a good idea to use some sort of tool. Glad you’re ok.
@@laurojimenez9541 yes here’s a link to two different videos based on two different types of auto fill valves. Side feed Auto Leveler Valve Replacement - Side Feed ua-cam.com/video/tmD7njaf0yU/v-deo.html Bottom/toilet style Auto Fill Valve Adjustment ua-cam.com/video/d8d-sCodkVU/v-deo.html
not to criticize but i would have skimmed the top of the water before i brushed the sides of the pool... also when you open the pump basket you could close the jandy valve so it wouldnt suck so much air while your emptying the basket , also i didnt see you clean the cartridge filter or vacuum the pool ? I use to do this type of work way back when and it was fun watching your video it took me back to some good memories .... thanks
Question.. why skim the top prior to brushing the sides? Wouldnt it make sense to brush the sides first so potential debris could get loosened? Genuinely curious and have yet to find a video that explains this 😩
@@xohbillie6284 There is no "one" order of doing this. Sometimes I'll skim the surface first (say if there's a lot of leaves on the surface). But if the surface debris is minimal, then I typically will skim last. But it's really what works best for you and is most efficient for your particular needs.
@@PoolSchooler thanks for the reply. For me, it made sense how you did it in the video here but all the other videos Ive seen is opposite to your method here (skim first then brush pool sides with the brush).. which I dont understand why most do it this way? Thought Id ask for clarification but if its comes down to a matter of preference and no other reason, then Ill continue to brush the sides of the pool first and skim at the end. :3
cobbb11 Actually, most pumps are self priming, including the one in this video. Unless you have a super super old system and pump it should prime itself. On occasion I’ll have a pool that has some air leakage somewhere in the plumbing and I might have to prime the pump if I leave the pump lid open for too long. As a rule of thumb if it runs for more than A minute without priming itself I will usually add water to it to give it some help.
only necessary with certain pentair variable speeds that will set off an alarm on the display if its pulling too much air adding water before priming should negate that
This is the same system we have. Ours is just over a year old with the salt ell being replaced twice. Thanks for all your great information especially on algae...looking for information on browning around the pop-ups.
I started cleaning pools almost three years ago. it's kind of been making me sick worrying about handling the chlorine tabs with my bare hands, I've tried using gloves but they're just too much of a hassle. Using those tongs is brilliant, thank you!
@@riggs9688 Mainly because chlorine is a poison and it could be harmful in handling the tablets over the years (especially as a pool guy who handles hundreds of them a week).
Great videos👍 I’m here in AZ also, interested in getting into the business. What’s the best way to start? Do you have a mentoring program? Thanks for the valuable content
Again I use tablets but during the summers I keep the chlorine level at 5 and using a tablet floater it holds all week long barring the client having some huge pool party or something that creates an excessive chlorine demand. Also keeping the CYA levels in the ideal ranges. But before you panic about that watch my video on CYA: ua-cam.com/video/_z55SBsjadw/v-deo.html
If you can’t get it to prime check your water level. Also make sure you close the valve to avoid water escaping otherwise you have to close the valve and add water to it :/
Hmm, there could be several reasons which would take too long to go over in this response. My suggestion would be to contact a local pool repair person OR better yet contact the manufacturer of your type of pump and ask them for a referral for a certified tech in your area and have them come out and diagnose the problem.
Thats a good idea. The main reason I didn't is that with all the pool vacs and in floor cleaning systems out there vacuuming a pool is not really necessary. In fact, I don't vacuum my clients pools because it takes so long. I'm going to be doing a video series on pool vacs, in floor cleaning systems soon. Stay tuned. Oh, and I will for sure do one on vacuuming a pool as well. Thanks for watching and for your comments.
Rolando Ulises Gastelum Ferro hmm. That’s a strong accusation. Stealing? Perhaps you should ask questions before reaching conclusions as that. ALL my clients know exactly what I do and they are totally okay with it. Also with spas. I don’t take on pools with attached spas. I don’t “steal” from my clients. They know exactly what they are getting for their money.
Rolando Ulises Gastelum Ferro oh and you are correct. Everything I do can be done by my clients. And if you have watched some of my other videos I have said that. BUT my clients for whatever reason choose not to do that so they pay me to do it for therm. Just like people who have cleaning companies clean their homes. They can do that themselves for sure but they choose not to.
@@leviathan6502 I have three clients who have attached spas and I have no problem doing them. I'm not sure if I said I didn't take on attached spas or rather I said I didn't service stand alone spas. The acrylic ones that have their own motors, heaters etc. I think that's what I said. My reason is that they are a little more difficult to sake care of and I do have a client who has one and all I do with it is test and balance the chemicals. But it's really a personal preference that I choose not to deal with them.
Typically they do, but if you have a REALLY old one it may need priming. I'm talking a pump that's maybe over 20 years old or more. Typically pumps don't last that long so you shouldn't have to worry about that. For more great DIY Pool stuff check out my website poolschooler.com
dannyboy768 Good idea. I really like the results I get to the test strips. Others do when others don’t. Try them both, see which one yours best for you and then go with that.
@@PoolSchooler Roger that. I know the feeder has only 6 weeks of use and it's an in-line feeder. I just wanted to make sure before I waste my time cleaning it out. I had a guy tell me he did that and didn't have any issues. Thank you!
Just out of curiosity, why do saltwater pool systems not hold up in your area? I have one here in the northeast and it works fine and they're becoming wildly popular here as well.
Its called a Union Tool. Here's a link to one. But look up Union Wrench and you can find the best deal.: www.amazon.com/Zodiac-Multi-Use-Tool-Union-Wrench/dp/B00F6MLCIG
Hi, I use the same test strips you use. My question is it doesn't show you Calcium Hardness or Stabilizer reading. I am new to this but as far as stabilizer goes how often do you add it to pool? Thanks.
Hi Miquel. You are incorrect that the AquaCheck Pro test strips don't measure hardness (calcium/minerals) see this link: express.google.com/u/0/product/15794406904204344168_3438255623706400585_2444664?gtim=CIqll6fkpOL-dxCviJ3CuKKjrSoYgI_sBCIDVVNEKJCz8dwF&. But you are correct that it doesn't test for Stabilizer (or conditioner, or CYA or it's official name Cyanuric Acid). For that you're going to want to get the AquaCheck Silver or 7 in 1 test strips. But as I speak about in another video, the hardness of the water is nothing you can really do anything about since it's based on your water source (city water usually). And with regards to CYA or stabilizer, once you have that level good you really shouldn't have to test it every week. I usually use the 7 in one strips twice a year. Once at the beginning of the summer and once at the end of summer. See my video on changing your water, when and why. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/ypCS5Bch0g0/v-deo.html Again, the Pro test strips do test for hardness (which you don't really need to know every week. And if you want to see your stabilizer levels you can get either the AquaCheck 7 test strips or take a sample of your water to a local pool store and have them test the cya level for you. They should do that for free.
Be very careful when adding stabilizer to your pool because the granules are so coarse they may take some time to dissolve. I've cleaned filters before that still had stabilizer granules still on it from months before. I only really add stabilizer to startups and salt pools. When I need to raise the stabilizer in the water I'll just use a few extra tabs over the next few weeks.
okay im wondering how i maintain the pool chemically? all im doing is adding chlorine as i deem fit maybe 15 litres of liquid every 4 days . not really worrying about Ph or alkalinity because i find that the chlorine automatically adjusts these when i test with the strip. i know i may be missing something but its been working pool is crystal blue and clear.. but any thoughts?
Unfortunately chlorine alone won't maintain ph and alkalinity levels. Watch these videos on pool chemistry and I think they'll answer your questions: ua-cam.com/video/lhhuuWsRGBk/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/CLsvXnZFkZI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/LIxwxyVX0ok/v-deo.html
Never had a client go through 3 different cells. i live in florida , 1 gotta keep up those cleanings bud 1/3 acid to water, also that looks like a t -cell make sure its operating at 15 on the mainboard any less amperage itll give you a low salt warning constantly. i learned this the hard way had to eat 456+ tax cause i replaced a perfectly good cell.
Ronin Gmail can you please explain how to to know if it’s operating at 15? I have a pentair system less than a year old and I’ve been getting constant “very low salt” and “chlorinator lost communication” alerts. I’m currently adding chlorine tabs to the skimmer.
@@IMS0504 ok the low salt error on a pentair is different , I'm assuming there is a comms link error in the diagnostic menu .? If there is u can manually reset the system without losing the schedule. As for 15 watts that's specific to tcell by Hayward.
cara varela it’s called a Caretaker Union Tool. Zodiac makes one too. Here’s a link to it on amazon: www.amazon.com/Zodiac-Multi-Use-Tool-Union-Wrench/dp/B00F6MLCIG
Maira Alonzo will do. Unfortunately calcium buildup on tile line of pools is challenging because of hard water and minerals. You can have a company bead blast it off but it’s hard on the tiles and the micro beads have to be vacuumed out of the pool. There is a product called “ScaleTech” and it works pretty well in removing and preventing it. But again, it’s another chemical in your pool your exposed to.
U can put a bandaid on it so to speak and remove the calcium but it will just build up again. You need to reduce the calcium levels in your pool water with a scale-tek or another calcium reducer and keep it in check to really solve the problem.
Thanks for a good, informative video but I'd feel a lot better if the power was disconnected at the pump breaker before twiddling my digits in the impeller housing. It's not real likely, but motor control interface could fail and allow the pump to start up.
There could be several reasons depending on the type of filter you have. If you have a sand filter: you probably need to backwash it. Once the sand gets too much dirt (or saturated) it won't trap any more and what's being vacuumed will just blow back into the pool. You should be backwashing a sand filter about every 2-4 weeks in the swim season and maybe every 3-6 weeks in the off season. If you have a cartridge filter, you may have a tear in one or more of the cartridges or you could have a broken/cracked manifold which could cause the dirty water to blow back into the pool. If you have a DE filter you may a torn grid or cracked manifold (but you'd have DE blown back into your pool if you did). Also on the rare possibility that you have a pop up cleaning system with a dedicated pump for the pop ups you have to make sure you're running the filter pump when you vacuum NOT the pop up pump. Hope that helps.
Also it may have an inline filter that could be plumbed into your equipment. You will need to close it off before vacuuming. I've ran into that before. Hope it helps
Good point. But I’ve never had a problem with pumps priming without having to run the suction valve completely off. So rather that add one more step to remember as lo. As one doesn’t leave the pump lid off too long it’s not really a problem. BUT the only time I would do that is if the pool sits below the equipment.
@@PoolSchooler How about having a bucket of pool water ready and just fill it and put the lid on quickly? That's what I've always done. Love your vids.
Be patient with yourself and know that you'll learn a lot each time you service a pool. It takes time to acquire knowledge and get to know each pool you're doing. And stay focused and you'll be fine.
Im on my 2nd week.... my company expects me to do it all in 20min. Servicing 15-19 pools a day in 8hours. Im frustrated cause i take 30-45min and up to an hour if it needs to be vacuumed. A lot of clients demand their pool to be vacuumed even if it doesn't need it. Plus theirs filters to be washed. I love the job, its super easy but i find myself cutting alot if corners just to be able to finish in 9 or 10hrs a day.
A wise man told me once, or twice, fake it til you make it. 8 months later, how's it going? I'm just getting started myself but have been working for a pool building contractor for a couple of years.
The Pool Whisperer I appreciate your comment. But it’s been my experience that the cya doesn’t need to be checked that often. At least in the region I live in. I’ve found that once every 4 months is sufficient and many of the other pool guys out here and my supplier suggest and do the same. Regarding calcium. I’ve personally never had that recommendation at least not for my areas. Our water out here is so hard (high in minerals including calcium) that the levels would be high and there’s really nothing that can be done to reduce that which comes from the tap water without using chemicals and I’m just not a big fan of more chemicals than absolutely necessary in pool water. But I do appreciate your comments.
Cya will raise 1 ppm every few tabs added... What's the point of checking it that often? I check once a month tops. Plus most customers are not willing to drain their pool right when it gets over 100 so what's the point of being that on top of it? Also as long as the water isn't brand new, the calcium is most likely going to be high and not low. So not really a huge need to check that regularly either. If it's new water yes make sure the water is hard enough or it will Leach calcium from the plaster
Dominick Caputo if you saw my video on changing water when and why I stated that I Check cya levels at the end and beginning of the swim season. About every 4 to 6 months. I agree no need to do it weekly.
I don't ever check it that often because...here it comes...I know what I'm doing lol. That's way too much. I would check salt pools when the chlorine level drops . I check calcium on start-ups or when you start to get build up. Here's a tip also..don't use tabs for about 4 months out of the year(winter) to try and lower the cya levels for the summer. I don't know about y'all but it gets hot in Texas! Other than that check it periodically every few months.😉
Could you do a video on how to change a pool light? Everytime we turn ours on it trips the GFI. I replaced the GFI and it still trips when the light is turned on.
Chris Ackermann Hi Chris, unfortunately that is a repair I do not do. I have a guy in my area who just does repairs on all things pools. So I refer all my service clients to him when they need a repair of any kind except for the minor stuff. Based on what you’re saying it sounds like you might have a loose wire or there may be water getting inside the cavity that holds your light fixture. Electricity and water make for a very dangerous combination. I would highly recommend contacting a licensed insured and bonded professional to come out and replace the light, you may find out that all you need is a new seal for the light itself. But that’s about all I can say on the subject.
StaffOfMines if a pool doesn’t have a vacuum or it if doesn’t have an in floor “pop up” cleaning system the bottom would probably have to be vacuumed at least every 2 weeks if not weekly. I’m going to be doing a couple videos soon on pool vacuums and “pop up” cleaning systems. Stay tuned.
Once that skimmer basket wears out it may be a good idea to invest in a heavy duty skimmer basket. They're heaver (no need for a rock) and they last a lot longer. You can get one at this link: amzn.to/4ev6Aco
James Thomas different pools have different set ups depending on whoever built them. Not sure I know how to comment on this unless I either visit the pool or see it.
@@PoolSchooler lol if you pause at 2:21 in your video you can see the value labeled heater bypass is turned off. Inline is open. That valve is turned off so therefore there is no water getting to the salt cell, or any returns after that valve.
@@JamesThomas-vz4of Not true. The way that pool was plummed whoever did it made it so that you had to have water flowing through the heater to get to the cell. When they removed the heater they made that pipe a loop (which can't be seen cause it's underground, but that's the only way to get flow to the cell). But the water has to flow the way it's set to get to the cell. This is an example of a pool builder or at least the guy who plummed it not think about what he was doing. Instead of plumbing the cell so it worked either way he made is so the water had to go through the heater to get to the cell.
I usually drop a chlorine tab on the basket to keep it down. I have a cracked skimmer so the worst case scenario is it gets sucked into the piping somehow. If so it will simply dissolve over time.
Joey Flowers yes. But as it is it could clog your suction pipe from the skimmer. I’d suggest getting a heavy duty skimmer basket and I’d stay away from putting a tablet in that basket as it can expedite the deterioration process of the plastic of that basket.
Lmao that's not the worst thing that'll happen! You are sending super chlorinated water through the system when the system turns on everyday. Itll destroy your equipment and cause leaks from o-rings and gaskets expanding over time. Plus I hope your heater doesn't have a copper heating exchange because it'll eat away at those too. Chlorine is an oxidizer and will eat away most medals.
I have 10 people under me and we do high-end pools in south Florida. If any of them dumped the baskets in the yard,I would only have 9. Other then that good video,o yea make sure the rock is bigger then the intake. Also I hate salt cell as well,waste of money
Ricky Ricardo I agree with you regarding dumping the skimmer basket in the yard. But I have a few clients that have told me it’s ok to do so. But yes most all of them I do not do that.
Hmmmm. I've never heard that. What stops the debris from floating out is the skimmer "door". If the basket floats up the debris would still find it's way out if you didn't have the skimmer opening "door".
Best do it yourself pool videos on the web! Thanks Kenny!
Thank you sir. I appreciate the kind words.
I like to use the nitrile gloves you can buy at the local hardware store I put a pair on every time I am servicing a customer on my pool route. They keep me from touching reagents or getting and chemicals on my hands. They work great!
I took the light out of the pool yesterday. The seal on it wasn't seated properly and let water to come into the housing. Took it apart, drained the water out of it, and dried it with a towel. I put it back together and tested it by putting it under water to check for bubbles and didnt see any. The GFI was reset and now the light works again. YAY! Thank you. Love your channel and get alot of helpful info and encouragement to do these repairs and maintenance myself.
Chris Ackermann so glad it helped. I’m hoping you tuned the electricity off at the breaker when you did that 😉
Chris Ackermann please invite your friends to subscribe to the channel as well.
Thank you for your input. The light was replaced when we bought the house a few weeks ago. I noticed that the light has water in it today when we were swimming. I have an electrician coming tomorrow to look at it.
Whoever replaced the light probably didn't replace the gasket which needs to be replace with the light always.
You know what this video needs? Zany sound effects.
Kenny, thanks for the video. Just got rid of my pool service so I'm venturing to do it myself.
Glad to hear it and congratulations!. There’s a little bit of a learning curve to figure out your individual pool but I’m positive you will have it down in no time. You might want to even look at my membership website poolschooler.com where I have exclusive Members Only con tent that includes pool specific checklists for weekly monthly and seasonal service as well as chemical she shoots and product links to products that I myself using my service. And it gives you more direct access to me via chats. But even if you don’t do that we should be able to find most everything you need to maintain your own pool through my channel except for really major stuff which I tend to suggest people hire a licensed and insured pool repair person for things like that.
Very good information for a new pool owner. Thank you.
Nice video,, i have a question.. dont you have to bleed the system out, when you open the pump basket? Also dont you have to fill the baket with water before close it.? Thank you.
Typically you shouldn't have to. The air should purge itself out through the return side of the system, unless you have some sort of air leak in the system that keeps adding air to it. So in a properly operating system, no you don't.
@@PoolSchooler thank you.
@@aaron-t6k6h You're welcome. Hope you'll subscribe to and share my channel with others.
I use bigger rocks that can't fit in the hole.. just in case..
Dang good idea.
Shouldn't have any rocks in the basket. Is supposed to float to trap debris.
@@seekgodfirst1605 i think you might be talking about a floating weir. They are rare. And work well. Most skimmers have a weir gate where the basket needs to stay down.. hence the rock. In order to trap debris and not let the pump basket get clogged.
Nice video. Thanks for posting it. I came here looking for tips to maintain my own pool.
TBH I thought your multi tool thing was overkill. Then yesterday I lifted my skimmer lid and found a baby copperhead curdled up in there. He was not happy to be disturbed.
Let's just I will be using something other than my finger to open the lid moving forward.
ShaneTracy Hamlin wow. That could’ve been a bad thing. Ya. I’ve come across black widows, brown recluse, scorpions and rattlers inside skimmer lids. The first time I had a black widow run across my finger I decided it was a good idea to use some sort of tool. Glad you’re ok.
I have the Salton, exterior over the edge, salt system. I rinse my pump filter out. I'm a stickler for clean.
Any company that sells you that... literally isn't worth their salt. It's an up sale that kills all aspects of your pool.
@@danielburnley3080 The Salton? I had no problems, except the learning curve.
dont forget to mention....to just dump all the baskets in the clients backyard landscaping week after week
i thought the same thing lmao
Depends on the yard. Some no big deal, others a no-no.
Mulch is good, no?
Do you have a video of how to set the auto fill. My pools water seems to high. Thank you
@@laurojimenez9541 yes here’s a link to two different videos based on two different types of auto fill valves. Side feed Auto Leveler Valve Replacement - Side Feed
ua-cam.com/video/tmD7njaf0yU/v-deo.html
Bottom/toilet style Auto Fill Valve Adjustment
ua-cam.com/video/d8d-sCodkVU/v-deo.html
Sure did. I had my licensed electrician buddy there with me as well. Safety first.
not to criticize but i would have skimmed the top of the water before i brushed the sides of the pool... also when you open the pump basket you could close the jandy valve so it wouldnt suck so much air while your emptying the basket , also i didnt see you clean the cartridge filter or vacuum the pool ? I use to do this type of work way back when and it was fun watching your video it took me back to some good memories .... thanks
Totally ok to share. Sometimes I do skim off the surface depending on how much floating debris I have. 👍. Thanks for commenting Daryl.
Question.. why skim the top prior to brushing the sides? Wouldnt it make sense to brush the sides first so potential debris could get loosened? Genuinely curious and have yet to find a video that explains this 😩
@@xohbillie6284 There is no "one" order of doing this. Sometimes I'll skim the surface first (say if there's a lot of leaves on the surface). But if the surface debris is minimal, then I typically will skim last. But it's really what works best for you and is most efficient for your particular needs.
@@PoolSchooler thanks for the reply. For me, it made sense how you did it in the video here but all the other videos Ive seen is opposite to your method here (skim first then brush pool sides with the brush).. which I dont understand why most do it this way? Thought Id ask for clarification but if its comes down to a matter of preference and no other reason, then Ill continue to brush the sides of the pool first and skim at the end. :3
Shouldn't you fill the pump basket area with water before starting the pump? Or is that not necessary with this model?
cobbb11 Actually, most pumps are self priming, including the one in this video. Unless you have a super super old system and pump it should prime itself. On occasion I’ll have a pool that has some air leakage somewhere in the plumbing and I might have to prime the pump if I leave the pump lid open for too long. As a rule of thumb if it runs for more than A minute without priming itself I will usually add water to it to give it some help.
only necessary with certain pentair variable speeds that will set off an alarm on the display if its pulling too much air adding water before priming should negate that
Not needed it primes by itself most of time
Where did you get the hook tool? Do you have links for where you buy all the products you use?
You can get it on amazon. Here's a link: www.amazon.com/Zodiac-Multi-Use-Tool-Union-Wrench/dp/B00F6MLCIG
My membership website has a product page with links to several of the products and tools I use. Poolschooler.com
This is the same system we have. Ours is just over a year old with the salt ell being replaced twice. Thanks for all your great information especially on algae...looking for information on browning around the pop-ups.
Hmm. Not sure about the browning around the pop ups. It could be rust?
The rust is the last diver's thoughts too. So glad this is all under warranty! Keep up the great videos! Stay safe! Thank you very much!
@@Crimsonjewel1 You're welcome. Let me know what it ends up being.
Just started my career as a pool service technician
Congratulations.
I started cleaning pools almost three years ago. it's kind of been making me sick worrying about handling the chlorine tabs with my bare hands, I've tried using gloves but they're just too much of a hassle. Using those tongs is brilliant, thank you!
matt22blaster no worries. I’d been doing pools for almost 16 years before a friend suggested tongs. Bam! Revelation. Better late then never 😉👍
why can't you touch them with bare hands?
@@riggs9688 Mainly because chlorine is a poison and it could be harmful in handling the tablets over the years (especially as a pool guy who handles hundreds of them a week).
real pool guys use their hands.... i would fire an employee if they had tongs in the truck.. smh
@@dinizopools5584 lol
Thank you for all you knowledge
Great videos👍 I’m here in AZ also, interested in getting into the business. What’s the best way to start? Do you have a mentoring program? Thanks for the valuable content
Actually I'm getting ready to launch something along that line. Shoot me an email and I"ll notify you when I launch it. kennypoolschool@gmail.com
As a weekly service does your chlorine stay at 3-5 like in the video throughout the week ? Or do you have problems with burn off ?
Again I use tablets but during the summers I keep the chlorine level at 5 and using a tablet floater it holds all week long barring the client having some huge pool party or something that creates an excessive chlorine demand. Also keeping the CYA levels in the ideal ranges. But before you panic about that watch my video on CYA: ua-cam.com/video/_z55SBsjadw/v-deo.html
Hi Kenny, Nicely done, you're a cool young man!
Thank you.
If you can’t get it to prime check your water level. Also make sure you close the valve to avoid water escaping otherwise you have to close the valve and add water to it :/
Question, I live in Phx area, my pool pump goes on and off when its not programed to do so. Any suggestion as to where to look for problem? Thanks
Hmm, there could be several reasons which would take too long to go over in this response. My suggestion would be to contact a local pool repair person OR better yet contact the manufacturer of your type of pump and ask them for a referral for a certified tech in your area and have them come out and diagnose the problem.
@@PoolSchooler Thanks for your input, will contact Mfg.
Think you should have shown the vacuuming as it is probably the most important and time consuming of the cleaning process.
Thats a good idea. The main reason I didn't is that with all the pool vacs and in floor cleaning systems out there vacuuming a pool is not really necessary. In fact, I don't vacuum my clients pools because it takes so long. I'm going to be doing a video series on pool vacs, in floor cleaning systems soon. Stay tuned. Oh, and I will for sure do one on vacuuming a pool as well.
Thanks for watching and for your comments.
Rolando Ulises Gastelum Ferro hmm. That’s a strong accusation. Stealing? Perhaps you should ask questions before reaching conclusions as that. ALL my clients know exactly what I do and they are totally okay with it. Also with spas. I don’t take on pools with attached spas.
I don’t “steal” from my clients. They know exactly what they are getting for their money.
Rolando Ulises Gastelum Ferro oh and you are correct. Everything I do can be done by my clients. And if you have watched some of my other videos I have said that. BUT my clients for whatever reason choose not to do that so they pay me to do it for therm. Just like people who have cleaning companies clean their homes. They can do that themselves for sure but they choose not to.
@@PoolSchooler why don't you take on attached spas?
@@leviathan6502 I have three clients who have attached spas and I have no problem doing them. I'm not sure if I said I didn't take on attached spas or rather I said I didn't service stand alone spas. The acrylic ones that have their own motors, heaters etc. I think that's what I said. My reason is that they are a little more difficult to sake care of and I do have a client who has one and all I do with it is test and balance the chemicals. But it's really a personal preference that I choose not to deal with them.
Do all pumps prime??????
Typically they do, but if you have a REALLY old one it may need priming. I'm talking a pump that's maybe over 20 years old or more. Typically pumps don't last that long so you shouldn't have to worry about that.
For more great DIY Pool stuff check out my website poolschooler.com
Are those test strips pretty accurate?
dannyboy768 it been my experience that they are if used according to the instructions on the label.
Not accurate for a pool service, good for if you do your own pool though.
Adam most of the pros I know out here use the strips and they swear by them as well as I do. But if you like the liquid kits that’s cool too.
I’m gonna buy those strips and compare them to a Taylor kit
dannyboy768 Good idea. I really like the results I get to the test strips. Others do when others don’t. Try them both, see which one yours best for you and then go with that.
Quick Tip...Just make sure the river rock is bigger than the sump holes ;)
Ken Chapel that’s a great point. Thanks for the comment. 👍
diverters should keep them out :D
@@MiloCK_0991 or damage the diverter valves...
@@damondelgado4603 free money lol
Do you reccomend a new feeder when switching from chlorine to bromine or can I wash out the old feeder and add bromine tabs?
Alex Camacho probably a good idea to do that.
@@PoolSchooler Roger that. I know the feeder has only 6 weeks of use and it's an in-line feeder. I just wanted to make sure before I waste my time cleaning it out. I had a guy tell me he did that and didn't have any issues. Thank you!
whats name of that skimmer lid remover multi tool ? seems comfy lol
It's called a Multi Use Union Tool. Caretaker and Jandy both make one. multi use union tool
What is the tool you use to remove the skimmer basket cover with?
It's called a Union Multi Tool Wrench. The one I use is made by Caretaker.
Just out of curiosity, why do saltwater pool systems not hold up in your area? I have one here in the northeast and it works fine and they're becoming wildly popular here as well.
Just the heat and sun and personally I don't think the cells hold up well.
@@PoolSchooler I do know they don't do well with hard water either.
@@6opekaso221 True as well.
I want one of that multi tool... did you made it? Or where can a buy one?
Its called a Union Tool. Here's a link to one. But look up Union Wrench and you can find the best deal.: www.amazon.com/Zodiac-Multi-Use-Tool-Union-Wrench/dp/B00F6MLCIG
Great info
Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Do you dump all your baskets on the ground like that? 😬
No i dont.
Hi, I use the same test strips you use. My question is it doesn't show you Calcium Hardness or Stabilizer reading. I am new to this but as far as stabilizer goes how often do you add it to pool? Thanks.
Hi Miquel. You are incorrect that the AquaCheck Pro test strips don't measure hardness (calcium/minerals) see this link: express.google.com/u/0/product/15794406904204344168_3438255623706400585_2444664?gtim=CIqll6fkpOL-dxCviJ3CuKKjrSoYgI_sBCIDVVNEKJCz8dwF&. But you are correct that it doesn't test for Stabilizer (or conditioner, or CYA or it's official name Cyanuric Acid). For that you're going to want to get the AquaCheck Silver or 7 in 1 test strips. But as I speak about in another video, the hardness of the water is nothing you can really do anything about since it's based on your water source (city water usually). And with regards to CYA or stabilizer, once you have that level good you really shouldn't have to test it every week. I usually use the 7 in one strips twice a year. Once at the beginning of the summer and once at the end of summer. See my video on changing your water, when and why. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/ypCS5Bch0g0/v-deo.html
Again, the Pro test strips do test for hardness (which you don't really need to know every week. And if you want to see your stabilizer levels you can get either the AquaCheck 7 test strips or take a sample of your water to a local pool store and have them test the cya level for you. They should do that for free.
Pool School Awesome, thank you for your response.
@@miguellongo3497 use the silvers theyre little bit more like 15 a bottle for 100 strips
Be very careful when adding stabilizer to your pool because the granules are so coarse they may take some time to dissolve. I've cleaned filters before that still had stabilizer granules still on it from months before. I only really add stabilizer to startups and salt pools. When I need to raise the stabilizer in the water I'll just use a few extra tabs over the next few weeks.
okay im wondering how i maintain the pool chemically? all im doing is adding chlorine as i deem fit maybe 15 litres of liquid every 4 days . not really worrying about Ph or alkalinity because i find that the chlorine automatically adjusts these when i test with the strip. i know i may be missing something but its been working pool is crystal blue and clear.. but any thoughts?
Unfortunately chlorine alone won't maintain ph and alkalinity levels. Watch these videos on pool chemistry and I think they'll answer your questions:
ua-cam.com/video/lhhuuWsRGBk/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/CLsvXnZFkZI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/LIxwxyVX0ok/v-deo.html
skimmer basket without missing wire lift is usually enough to keep it down.
David McMillan not always. It really depends on the basket. Some with the wire handle at very lightweight plastic and they tend to float up.
Just use a val-pak skimmer basket and you more than likely won't ever have to replace them again and they are heavy duty enough to weight it down.
@@damondelgado4603 These are my favorite skimmer baskets by far.
Never had a client go through 3 different cells. i live in florida , 1 gotta keep up those cleanings bud 1/3 acid to water, also that looks like a t -cell make sure its operating at 15 on the mainboard any less amperage itll give you a low salt warning constantly. i learned this the hard way had to eat 456+ tax cause i replaced a perfectly good cell.
forgot that recalibrating the system is stupidly important and easy. instructions located in the manual or pdf.
Ronin Gmail can you please explain how to to know if it’s operating at 15? I have a pentair system less than a year old and I’ve been getting constant “very low salt” and “chlorinator lost communication” alerts. I’m currently adding chlorine tabs to the skimmer.
@@IMS0504 ok the low salt error on a pentair is different , I'm assuming there is a comms link error in the diagnostic menu .? If there is u can manually reset the system without losing the schedule. As for 15 watts that's specific to tcell by Hayward.
Ronin Gmail got you are correct. There is a communication error. I’ll give the reset option a shot. Thanks for your insight.
@@IMS0504 however if you reset it give it a few hours still have a comlink error the board may be bad.
Where can I find a multi tool like that?
cara varela it’s called a Caretaker Union Tool. Zodiac makes one too. Here’s a link to it on amazon: www.amazon.com/Zodiac-Multi-Use-Tool-Union-Wrench/dp/B00F6MLCIG
...a wooden dowel with a notch would work, too? Or, one with a little nail in it?
we have to weekly vac on most pools in my area
What about a conditioner? Is it necessary annually?
Conditioner is CYA and you don't want to over add that. Heres' a video I did on CYA it'll help: ua-cam.com/video/_z55SBsjadw/v-deo.html
What is that tool called ?
It' called a Union Multi Purpose Tool. That one's by Caretaker.
For more great DIY Pool stuff check out my website poolschooler.com
Can you do a video on calcium buildup on the pool edges
Maira Alonzo will do. Unfortunately calcium buildup on tile line of pools is challenging because of hard water and minerals. You can have a company bead blast it off but it’s hard on the tiles and the micro beads have to be vacuumed out of the pool. There is a product called “ScaleTech” and it works pretty well in removing and preventing it. But again, it’s another chemical in your pool your exposed to.
U can put a bandaid on it so to speak and remove the calcium but it will just build up again. You need to reduce the calcium levels in your pool water with a scale-tek or another calcium reducer and keep it in check to really solve the problem.
...swim around and polish it off with a scrubbing stone-- without touching the bottom. It's a hell of a workout, too!
Thanks for a good, informative video but I'd feel a lot better if the power was disconnected at the pump breaker before twiddling my digits in the impeller housing. It's not real likely, but motor control interface could fail and allow the pump to start up.
ej canup that is a good idea. Better to be safe than sorry.
Question why after vacuuming our pool does the dirt go right back in
There could be several reasons depending on the type of filter you have.
If you have a sand filter: you probably need to backwash it. Once the sand gets too much dirt (or saturated) it won't trap any more and what's being vacuumed will just blow back into the pool. You should be backwashing a sand filter about every 2-4 weeks in the swim season and maybe every 3-6 weeks in the off season.
If you have a cartridge filter, you may have a tear in one or more of the cartridges or you could have a broken/cracked manifold which could cause the dirty water to blow back into the pool.
If you have a DE filter you may a torn grid or cracked manifold (but you'd have DE blown back into your pool if you did).
Also on the rare possibility that you have a pop up cleaning system with a dedicated pump for the pop ups you have to make sure you're running the filter pump when you vacuum NOT the pop up pump.
Hope that helps.
Also it may have an inline filter that could be plumbed into your equipment. You will need to close it off before vacuuming. I've ran into that before. Hope it helps
@@PoolSchooler Do you have a video or tips on backwashing? (I have a glass filter.)
@@lystic9392 I do. If is sand or DE?
How do you clean calcium off tiles?
Best way is to use a pumice stone
@@PoolSchooler Thx
@@sheilalong8721 youre welcome.
If you closed the valve before opening that pump basket it would have primed quicker
Good point. But I’ve never had a problem with pumps priming without having to run the suction valve completely off. So rather that add one more step to remember as lo. As one doesn’t leave the pump lid off too long it’s not really a problem. BUT the only time I would do that is if the pool sits below the equipment.
@@PoolSchooler How about having a bucket of pool water ready and just fill it and put the lid on quickly? That's what I've always done. Love your vids.
Len De Silva that’s a good idea too.
Great video and very informative. I'm starting next week to be a pool service tech. I have zero experience. Any tips/advice you can give?
Be patient with yourself and know that you'll learn a lot each time you service a pool. It takes time to acquire knowledge and get to know each pool you're doing. And stay focused and you'll be fine.
Im on my 2nd week.... my company expects me to do it all in 20min. Servicing 15-19 pools a day in 8hours.
Im frustrated cause i take 30-45min and up to an hour if it needs to be vacuumed. A lot of clients demand their pool to be vacuumed even if it doesn't need it. Plus theirs filters to be washed. I love the job, its super easy but i find myself cutting alot if corners just to be able to finish in 9 or 10hrs a day.
A wise man told me once, or twice, fake it til you make it. 8 months later, how's it going? I'm just getting started myself but have been working for a pool building contractor for a couple of years.
Silt how do I attack it
Is the silt blowing back from your filter?
@@PoolSchooler honestly not sure.i dont have a waste sitting on my filter.do backwash and rinse.
Always gotta check the calcium levels in cement pools. Every other week U should check cya levels if ur using tablets to name a few.
The Pool Whisperer I appreciate your comment. But it’s been my experience that the cya doesn’t need to be checked that often. At least in the region I live in. I’ve found that once every 4 months is sufficient and many of the other pool guys out here and my supplier suggest and do the same. Regarding calcium. I’ve personally never had that recommendation at least not for my areas. Our water out here is so hard (high in minerals including calcium) that the levels would be high and there’s really nothing that can be done to reduce that which comes from the tap water without using chemicals and I’m just not a big fan of more chemicals than absolutely necessary in pool water. But I do appreciate your comments.
Cya will raise 1 ppm every few tabs added... What's the point of checking it that often? I check once a month tops. Plus most customers are not willing to drain their pool right when it gets over 100 so what's the point of being that on top of it? Also as long as the water isn't brand new, the calcium is most likely going to be high and not low. So not really a huge need to check that regularly either. If it's new water yes make sure the water is hard enough or it will Leach calcium from the plaster
Dominick Caputo if you saw my video on changing water when and why I stated that I Check cya levels at the end and beginning of the swim season. About every 4 to 6 months. I agree no need to do it weekly.
If you check the CYA every week, you will be able to know when there is a leak in the pool. Especially if there is an auto fill on the pool
I don't ever check it that often because...here it comes...I know what I'm doing lol. That's way too much. I would check salt pools when the chlorine level drops . I check calcium on start-ups or when you start to get build up. Here's a tip also..don't use tabs for about 4 months out of the year(winter) to try and lower the cya levels for the summer. I don't know about y'all but it gets hot in Texas! Other than that check it periodically every few months.😉
Could you do a video on how to change a pool light? Everytime we turn ours on it trips the GFI. I replaced the GFI and it still trips when the light is turned on.
Chris Ackermann Hi Chris, unfortunately that is a repair I do not do. I have a guy in my area who just does repairs on all things pools. So I refer all my service clients to him when they need a repair of any kind except for the minor stuff. Based on what you’re saying it sounds like you might have a loose wire or there may be water getting inside the cavity that holds your light fixture. Electricity and water make for a very dangerous combination. I would highly recommend contacting a licensed insured and bonded professional to come out and replace the light, you may find out that all you need is a new seal for the light itself. But that’s about all I can say on the subject.
I'm guessing this is Arizona because here in cali we don't have to worry about spiders and other stingers in our skimmers. lol
You are right.
How do I get a job cleaning pools?
I would suggest contacting a few local pool supply companies and ask them for some referrals for pool service companies and call and ask.
That little button on the control panel is not a real service DISCONNECT.
When testing the water make sure you bring the strips deep enough to your elbow to get a more accurate test.
Chris Kennedy good advice. Thanks for posting.
Do you vacuum the bottom of the pool?
StaffOfMines if a pool doesn’t have a vacuum or it if doesn’t have an in floor “pop up” cleaning system the bottom would probably have to be vacuumed at least every 2 weeks if not weekly. I’m going to be doing a couple videos soon on pool vacuums and “pop up” cleaning systems. Stay tuned.
yes i have a rock in my skimmer basket
Once that skimmer basket wears out it may be a good idea to invest in a heavy duty skimmer basket. They're heaver (no need for a rock) and they last a lot longer. You can get one at this link: amzn.to/4ev6Aco
@@PoolSchooler will that fit in my skimmer? are all skimmers the same size?
@@PoolSchooler i dioi appreciate your help!!!
@@harleyinred most of them are the same size. So if you have a standard skimmer basket, the heavy duty oneshould fit.
@@PoolSchooler my basket is6.2 across, 3 high, 3.7 bottom.
No sound effect bro
B L E A C H sorry I’m not sure I understand your comment.
Water isn't even getting to the salt cell or any returns after the valve that's turned off..
James Thomas different pools have different set ups depending on whoever built them. Not sure I know how to comment on this unless I either visit the pool or see it.
@@PoolSchooler lol if you pause at 2:21 in your video you can see the value labeled heater bypass is turned off. Inline is open. That valve is turned off so therefore there is no water getting to the salt cell, or any returns after that valve.
@@JamesThomas-vz4of Not true. The way that pool was plummed whoever did it made it so that you had to have water flowing through the heater to get to the cell. When they removed the heater they made that pipe a loop (which can't be seen cause it's underground, but that's the only way to get flow to the cell). But the water has to flow the way it's set to get to the cell. This is an example of a pool builder or at least the guy who plummed it not think about what he was doing. Instead of plumbing the cell so it worked either way he made is so the water had to go through the heater to get to the cell.
Looks like an Arizona backyard.
kyle bolender yup.
What state are you in?
Cause I noticed you mentioned scorpions
Caleb Broncos Arizona.
Pool School Broncos are my favorite team, I need to live there
I usually drop a chlorine tab on the basket to keep it down. I have a cracked skimmer so the worst case scenario is it gets sucked into the piping somehow. If so it will simply dissolve over time.
Joey Flowers yes. But as it is it could clog your suction pipe from the skimmer. I’d suggest getting a heavy duty skimmer basket and I’d stay away from putting a tablet in that basket as it can expedite the deterioration process of the plastic of that basket.
@@PoolSchooler that's a good point.
Thanks!
Lmao that's not the worst thing that'll happen! You are sending super chlorinated water through the system when the system turns on everyday. Itll destroy your equipment and cause leaks from o-rings and gaskets expanding over time. Plus I hope your heater doesn't have a copper heating exchange because it'll eat away at those too. Chlorine is an oxidizer and will eat away most medals.
Hell yeah !!!
Every month Backwash
I had to change the 666 views to 667!!!
I have 10 people under me and we do high-end pools in south Florida. If any of them dumped the baskets in the yard,I would only have 9. Other then that good video,o yea make sure the rock is bigger then the intake. Also I hate salt cell as well,waste of money
Ricky Ricardo I agree with you regarding dumping the skimmer basket in the yard. But I have a few clients that have told me it’s ok to do so. But yes most all of them I do not do that.
Leave the rock out of the skimmer basket, it's supposed to float to trap debris when the pump turns off.
Hmmmm. I've never heard that. What stops the debris from floating out is the skimmer "door". If the basket floats up the debris would still find it's way out if you didn't have the skimmer opening "door".