Legend Ryan, thanks for doing this video. It's a shame with all the time HM were waiting for the canopies, that they couldn't have been updating the boards in the background. I Hope that new buyers finds your video early to save them on a lot of pain. Really appreciate your attitude and great nature with fantastic dedication to seeing HDZero flourish. Have a great weekend!
im using the original moubla6 canopy cause its way sturdier and it comes with a bracket for cams that you cant screw in but im running the eco cam not sure if the bracket works with the lux cam but imo thats the best canopy if you want it to last
@bluefpv3263 thanks mate, yes I think I'm doing a similar thing at the moment with a hd zero nano light canopy and a make shift bracket from a Betafpv camera mount, it's heavy though. The eco camera is very different the hm canopy for the eco camera is great, it's so tough I've been bashing a few of them for weeks. I appreciate your reply thank you.
Bf 4.5.1 supports the faster elrs modes. Don’t forget spi elrs is not kept upto date with elrs any more. But if you have the latest stable BF ( which should be used cause there are some dshot issues with 4.4 ) you can use the F modes. 500 is better than 1000 as it puts a LOT of load on the f411 processor. If you have the icm gyro I also recommend overclocking the cpu. ( don’t use it for the bmi )
I didn't even try f1000 - didn't realize it would work. I think lower is more stable and more stable is more important than speed in this case. Thanks for the tune - it flies so well
@@RyanQuellet more than that.. at 10bit packet rate ( which elrs uses currently ) you get next to no ff in small or slow stick movements on 1000hz. f500 or normal 500 are the best compromise IMO
@@Sugar_K Do you find that the overclocking on ICM's with f411's helps with the increasingly common 'CPU OVERLOAD' problems with these tiny boards and the recent BF versions? I already cloud build the absolute minimum but because I like to run excellent features such as crash recovery and ezlanding I'm seeing CPU overload more than I'd expect/like. PS. Love your 65mm tunes 👌🏆
Dude, thank you so much! I love this whoop except that I would get the “rpm filter” warning and have to reboot every time I tried to arm after using turtle mode. Haven’t had an arming issue since flashing 4.5.1 and your preset. I did have to change the yaw angle to 45* as was pointed out in the video. Interestingly enough, I had this issue with the race HD version after turning on telemetry in the receiver tab. Once I switched it back off, the problem went away. That didn’t help the freestyle version however, so maybe that was a fluke.
Some other differences I’ve noticed in the tune: It now hovers at around 42 on the throttle, whereas it was around 35 before. The sticks are noticeably more responsive than before. It idles differently at 0 throttle. Seems to give me better control coming out of power loops. Flight time seems to have increased slightly.
You are a god among men for this dude! It’s like you read my mind with this video. Would u be willing to share your camera settings as well? It looks so nice and clear.
I tried your preset backup above. Looks like it has align_board_yaw = 135 and at least for mine had to be set at align_board_yaw = 45. Otherwise seems good. Thanks!
Hello! Is the overclock setting in your preset still suitable with an ICM gyro model? The drone seems to fly very well, but it also overheats much quicker (about 20 seconds after power applied), and I wonder if this is due to the overclock setting? I believe that it is the core overheating too, not the VTX. Thanks for all of the great advice in the video! :)
@JamesHardingYT i don't think the overclock has caused a 20c rise in temp. If you put foam under the camera mount be sure to trim it a lot so air can reach the board to cool it off. Defsult BETAFLIGHT seems to be applying a mid level overstock to f411 already
@@RyanQuellet thanks, tried flashing all esc in bluejay, esc 4 stopped midway and now not showing up in the configurator.... looks like its dead now...
Can you please shortly point out the things that the Betaflight team recommended for tweaking the settings? Can I find those recommendations separately somewhere?
Basically, look for race whoop late 2024 in presets tab. Choose the heavier option. Choose over clock option if you have ICM gyro. Choose SPI elrs option
@@RyanQuellet Great! Thanks for the reply. I tried that out and it works really well. I mean, the drone flew really great out of the box and it only became better =)
Sorry, I am quite confused re your comments regarding Lux compatibility. The mob6 comes with the lux installed, and is working fine for me. Are you saying it will look even better if I update the vtx firmware?
Excellent video. So I am having the arming issue. My TX16S is connected (sticks move in BF) but when I arm, it just looks at me and smiles. So since I dont have my HDZ Goggles yet, I can't really update the firmware to BF 4.5, is that right? I am currently on BF 4.4.2.
i just build a whoop yesterday with the hdzero aio and the eco cam it works kinda out of the box i just updated to betaflight 4.5.1 and put my binding phrase in the reciever tab one thing i had a little problem with was the usb port beeing in the way of the lipo so i had to rotate the aio 90° to get that out of the way and i melted a little bit of the frame to get to the hdzero port im using the usb programmer i love it doing it via the goggles was a hassle to be honest :D do you think the tune chris rosser made for the aio is good did you try that?
@@RyanQuellet do you use the karte brushless whoop or the karate race whoop preset? also my aio gets to like 90° C is that a me problem or is that normal tbf my flat is not very big so im not flying fast but 90°C seems to hot?
@ I figured it out I think. In your dump the ports page has msp display port on both usb and uart1.. when I first saw it I thought it was wrong but that’s how u have it setup.
@RyanQuellet so im basically good if i was able to adjust the ratio on both camera and vtx. Couldn't hurt to check which version I'm on still. Appreciate the reply and the video Ryan!
The glue is definitely worth having. I'd suggest leaving it for a good few hours to cure though. Not sure i'd glue the camera in though, just make a better mount.
That's it...this should all be done for $200...dont you think?? I know how to de these things but come on...a little more attention to detail by manufacturers is expected. I now have to spend an hour before I get it in the air. Thanks for your help but someone needs to rant a bit cuz these toys are expensive. Heck the DJI Neo is the same price and out of the box...it just works!
@@RyanQuellet exactly.. BF can achieve gold standard flight performance across thousands of hardware and drone combinations.. that is not a simple thing and its something DJI cannot do.
I find it unbelievable that as Americans and spoiled, they still bitch. Not all, but what kind of people are we producing here, that think the world is owed to them? [FacePalm] Thanks Ryan. Cheers, buddy! not a hater, but wtf?
Legend Ryan, thanks for doing this video. It's a shame with all the time HM were waiting for the canopies, that they couldn't have been updating the boards in the background.
I Hope that new buyers finds your video early to save them on a lot of pain.
Really appreciate your attitude and great nature with fantastic dedication to seeing HDZero flourish. Have a great weekend!
im using the original moubla6 canopy cause its way sturdier and it comes with a bracket for cams that you cant screw in
but im running the eco cam not sure if the bracket works with the lux cam
but imo thats the best canopy if you want it to last
@bluefpv3263 thanks mate, yes I think I'm doing a similar thing at the moment with a hd zero nano light canopy and a make shift bracket from a Betafpv camera mount, it's heavy though. The eco camera is very different the hm canopy for the eco camera is great, it's so tough I've been bashing a few of them for weeks. I appreciate your reply thank you.
Ryan, thank you for this video. I will apply all these updates! Dave Messina
Enjoy it! My favorite whoop right now
Bf 4.5.1 supports the faster elrs modes. Don’t forget spi elrs is not kept upto date with elrs any more. But if you have the latest stable BF ( which should be used cause there are some dshot issues with 4.4 ) you can use the F modes. 500 is better than 1000 as it puts a LOT of load on the f411 processor. If you have the icm gyro I also recommend overclocking the cpu. ( don’t use it for the bmi )
I didn't even try f1000 - didn't realize it would work. I think lower is more stable and more stable is more important than speed in this case. Thanks for the tune - it flies so well
@@RyanQuellet more than that.. at 10bit packet rate ( which elrs uses currently ) you get next to no ff in small or slow stick movements on 1000hz. f500 or normal 500 are the best compromise IMO
How do you overclock a F411? Is there a custom build of betaflight that does it?
@@jumpstartfpv use this line in the cli followed by save 'set cpu_overclock = 120MHZ'
@@Sugar_K Do you find that the overclocking on ICM's with f411's helps with the increasingly common 'CPU OVERLOAD' problems with these tiny boards and the recent BF versions? I already cloud build the absolute minimum but because I like to run excellent features such as crash recovery and ezlanding I'm seeing CPU overload more than I'd expect/like.
PS. Love your 65mm tunes 👌🏆
Dude, thank you so much! I love this whoop except that I would get the “rpm filter” warning and have to reboot every time I tried to arm after using turtle mode. Haven’t had an arming issue since flashing 4.5.1 and your preset. I did have to change the yaw angle to 45* as was pointed out in the video. Interestingly enough, I had this issue with the race HD version after turning on telemetry in the receiver tab. Once I switched it back off, the problem went away. That didn’t help the freestyle version however, so maybe that was a fluke.
I'm glad I helped! Whoop on
Some other differences I’ve noticed in the tune: It now hovers at around 42 on the throttle, whereas it was around 35 before. The sticks are noticeably more responsive than before. It idles differently at 0 throttle. Seems to give me better control coming out of power loops. Flight time seems to have increased slightly.
Thanks Ryan, will be fixing mine up. And appreciate the BF file too with setup, will flash mine and apply
You are a god among men for this dude! It’s like you read my mind with this video. Would u be willing to share your camera settings as well? It looks so nice and clear.
This is 16x9 mode with saturation 11 and sharpness 11 gain 10
@ Nice thx man!
I tried your preset backup above. Looks like it has align_board_yaw = 135 and at least for mine had to be set at align_board_yaw = 45. Otherwise seems good. Thanks!
You might have an ICM gyro then. Enjoy!
Yep mine was the same, thankfully saw the note on the video about it :)
Hello! Is the overclock setting in your preset still suitable with an ICM gyro model? The drone seems to fly very well, but it also overheats much quicker (about 20 seconds after power applied), and I wonder if this is due to the overclock setting? I believe that it is the core overheating too, not the VTX. Thanks for all of the great advice in the video! :)
@JamesHardingYT i don't think the overclock has caused a 20c rise in temp. If you put foam under the camera mount be sure to trim it a lot so air can reach the board to cool it off. Defsult BETAFLIGHT seems to be applying a mid level overstock to f411 already
Love it Ryan
Thanks for the video! where can I buy the lux camera mount?
@LoganimFPV i heard that the Lux cam mount is available to purchase now, but I'm not sure where. Try Tinywhoop.com
Thanks, Ryan!
As someone who bought the lux and board before this bnf came out, why is the damn canopy still not available to buy separately..
TinyWhoop sells one, and the stl is available so you can print your own
@KrazyCase_FPV Ye i printed one right away. Id still prefer a more protective one.
Hi, Would you suggest updating BF to the newest version? and how about Bluejay from 0.19 to 0.21?
great video! i flashed mine and applied your presets, but cannot get it up in the air due to DShot error, any idea what could it be?
@sytsprism7176 could be messes up esc settings. Also make sure that elrs settings on radio are something simple like 250hz
@@RyanQuellet thanks, tried flashing all esc in bluejay, esc 4 stopped midway and now not showing up in the configurator.... looks like its dead now...
@sytsprism7176 make sure the radio is not connected while flashing esc
Why not use the HDZero programming software to update the board and any VTX? It's part of the manual for the AIO5. Super fast and simple.
Requires Windows PC and a separate tool
Can you please shortly point out the things that the Betaflight team recommended for tweaking the settings? Can I find those recommendations separately somewhere?
Basically, look for race whoop late 2024 in presets tab. Choose the heavier option. Choose over clock option if you have ICM gyro. Choose SPI elrs option
@@RyanQuellet Great! Thanks for the reply. I tried that out and it works really well. I mean, the drone flew really great out of the box and it only became better =)
Sorry, I am quite confused re your comments regarding Lux compatibility.
The mob6 comes with the lux installed, and is working fine for me. Are you saying it will look even better if I update the vtx firmware?
@@nathanielbuchanan7314 check vtx fw (sticks down and in) if it says version 1.7 or higher at bottom of the screen, then you're good
Excellent video. So I am having the arming issue. My TX16S is connected (sticks move in BF) but when I arm, it just looks at me and smiles. So since I dont have my HDZ Goggles yet, I can't really update the firmware to BF 4.5, is that right? I am currently on BF 4.4.2.
@@f2f.photography you can update vtx fw with any hdzero vrx or goggle. The usb programmer tool is also an option
i just build a whoop yesterday with the hdzero aio and the eco cam
it works kinda out of the box i just updated to betaflight 4.5.1 and put my binding phrase in the reciever tab
one thing i had a little problem with was the usb port beeing in the way of the lipo so i had to rotate the aio 90° to get that out of the way
and i melted a little bit of the frame to get to the hdzero port
im using the usb programmer i love it doing it via the goggles was a hassle to be honest :D
do you think the tune chris rosser made for the aio is good did you try that?
I didn't try Chris Rosser's tune. I am using SugarK's tune from betaflight team
@@RyanQuellet do you use the karte brushless whoop or the karate race whoop preset?
also my aio gets to like 90° C is that a me problem or is that normal
tbf my flat is not very big so im not flying fast but 90°C seems to hot?
Can anyone tell me what powers is the built in vtx? 25,50 & 250 or what! Can't seem to find in writing anywhere! Great Video Ryan, Thank You!
@@flasholiver69 vtx power is 25-200mW
Did anybody else notice the HDZero box goggles?
man IDK whats up but I cant get the osd to work on your cli dump
@@Robocopter_fpv could be a lot of things. Keep trying and try rebooting goggles also
@ I figured it out I think. In your dump the ports page has msp display port on both usb and uart1.. when I first saw it I thought it was wrong but that’s how u have it setup.
What does the update supporting the lux camera do since the camera still works without it?
Without the update, the camera aspect ratio is wrong (4x3 stretched to 16x9), and there is no way to adjust camera settings
@RyanQuellet so im basically good if i was able to adjust the ratio on both camera and vtx. Couldn't hurt to check which version I'm on still. Appreciate the reply and the video Ryan!
@@serenestateofbeing1062 yeah, just check if it is 1.7 or higher fw
@@RyanQuellet How do I check if it's 1.7 or higher? Thank you for the great video btw.
@@deadbane sticks down and in. Version is at the bottom
Thank you, fine sir.
Good day.
Shalom
Are you not updating the ESC firmware too?
No, keeping it stock for now
Nice but i understand only 50%. But the glue i try.😍
The glue is definitely worth having. I'd suggest leaving it for a good few hours to cure though. Not sure i'd glue the camera in though, just make a better mount.
Guess simple fix is to have 4 point mounting
Interesting goggles sir.
What goggles 😅
That's it...this should all be done for $200...dont you think?? I know how to de these things but come on...a little more attention to detail by manufacturers is expected. I now have to spend an hour before I get it in the air. Thanks for your help but someone needs to rant a bit cuz these toys are expensive. Heck the DJI Neo is the same price and out of the box...it just works!
This stuff is complicated - I get it. For what it's worth - a Neo can't fly anything like this does. Enjoy your 20g little rocket!
@@RyanQuellet exactly.. BF can achieve gold standard flight performance across thousands of hardware and drone combinations.. that is not a simple thing and its something DJI cannot do.
I find it unbelievable that as Americans and spoiled, they still bitch. Not all,
but what kind of people are we producing here, that think the world is owed to them?
[FacePalm]
Thanks Ryan.
Cheers, buddy!
not a hater, but wtf?
so I can connect this to my googles integra?