I also expected a bank of mosfets to do the job. Relays are very handy but mosfets are better, no contacts to spark and go bad. The car looked very happy :-D The cat didn't look too interested, no change there lol.
yes, several mosfets in parallel would be a better solution. They could switch way more current without taking as much space. But they are probably more expensive and there's still the problem with the reverse diode...
@@AKAtheA I have abused many relays for fun, and the only times i have seen them fail open, is with massive overload, where the contacts melt away. In a slight overload situation it is actually very common for the contracts to stick i.e failing closed.
A very popular Tacklife jumpstarter also contains the same 70A relay. I was called upon to try to repair one that would not charge. It had been overused/overheated and the Li-Ion cells had leaked resulting in the positive connection lead to the pack corroding and falling off. The relay was fine.
No chance. If you believe that than you'll also believe the 100milliohm contact resistance; at 70A the contacts would dropping 7 volts and be dissipating almost half a kilowatt of heat.
@@ferrumignis Believe what? The current marked on relays is always switching current. That's why there's often two separate values given for ac and dc.
@@ferrumignis lol, it's obviously not 0.1 Ohms. Datasheets for 70A automotive relays list initial voltage drop @ 10A 10-20 mV. So 1-2 mOhms. Also that power pack will not deliver 2500A, you'll be lucky to get 500A based on capacity of the lipo.
Glad I'm not the only one who is enthused by cheap oscilloscopes. I have a Tektronix 2230 100mhz but there's something about these cheap scopes that keeps bringing me back for more.
simple solution for 8:10 is to implement an ideal diode configuration using two MOSFETS with opposing drains. Provides space savings, reduces complexity and eliminates contact wear.
That relay contacts will stuck after couples of starting events.. because the negative side of the battery is already connected. So when the relay contacts closed there will be full current running through those contacts. And normally relay contacts are not connected properly.
The relay does NOT turn on the starter. It turns on when you connect it to the existing car battery. In those cases it should always be well below 70A. When the starter runs, the relay acts pretty much exactly like the wires that connect to the car, it is just a passive metal conductor.
@@eDoc2020 Yeah I guess, but then most cars have the control for the starter not in the same place as the car battery. :) So unless you have 2 or more people using the device AND dont follow the instructions, it should be impossible to mess this up.
If that relay tries to break in an actual scenario to prevent backfeed, there is likely to be arcing across the contacts due interruption of high currents.
Google "Ideal diode mosfet circuit" and you'll see some circuits with 2 x P-MOSFET connected back to back in the + supply path. You'll also see 2 mosfets in a TP4056 Li-ion cell charger/protection modules, they're used to cut off the connection to the battery, if an Over Current (OC), or And over voltage (OV) conditions occur. The reason they didn't use a MOSFET instead of a relay, is no MOSFET can carry that much current, even for a short time. Using a beefy enough industrial transistor would probably cost hundreds.
It would be interesting to see just how many Amps it actually takes to start a car in a typical situation (connected to a flat battery unable to turn the engine over and allow time from connection to walk to start the car and typically crank for 4-5 seconds) monitoring voltage (at pack and at starter) and current through out, I might attempt this myself.
well, they definitely don't fully charge it, but even just a little surface charge allows the lead acid battery to supply a short pulse of high current. Even a very little extra charge reduces the internal resistance by orders of magnitude.
Just did the math. 8 awg should handle 250 A for about 11 seconds if it can withstand a 50C temperature rise. Probably good for 22s if we assume 90C rated insulation and a battery that failed due to the cold. the 2500A "rating" is probably the short current, or just some random number to imply its stronger than a brand new, room temperature, truck battery.
@@deltab9768 awesome, thanks! I just picked the 250A out of thin air but pleased to hear it's in the right area of guesswork! I know I've melted 35mm2 cables (2AWG?) with ~7-800A.
Chinese manufacturers usually rates battery short circuit current to be more impressive , but propably the 2500amps if its even possible is for very brief moment when the starter coil is charging. I think 200-300 amps at max for few seconds is the maximum current of the battery, but once the starter is rotating the current dont need to be more than that.
@@bmvfabrika8148 Yes. As far as I can tell the reason car batteries are 500-1000 CCA is to account for some wear and tear before needing to be replaced. If this thing can give 350A for 5 or 10 seconds, that is probably more than adequate.
Could you please make a video about your Equipment/Tools and how you got your knowledge !! :D Other DiodeGoneWild-Fans may upvote/like this so we all can learn something ! Thank you AND More Salt !!!
Would love to see more on DC to DC converters. Particularly 12V - 300V+ as trying to make a DC capacity discharge ignition system. At the moment just trying to modify a purchased module to do the capacitor charging bit but would like to make my own.
Just looking at the gauge of the jumper wire it will become a hot resistor dropping the voltage at 2500 amps. Under load voltage can not drop below 10.5 volts. Amps will go up at lower volts but not do work just become heat making higher resistance in the Circuit.
My understanding is the battery voltage is allowed to dip to 7v when starting. But yes, the wire can't really handle 2500 amps. 2500a is the calculated current needed to melt 8awg wire in just 1 second.
@@eDoc2020 in automotive all the ECM‘s and the PCM‘s and body control modules start dropping out below 9.5 V. Even back in the 60s and 70s prior to any computers when testing the battery on starting cranking voltage did not allowed to go below 9.8 to 9.5 V 10.5 V was considered excellent and extremely good
@@coldfinger459sub0 Perhaps, I was going by the Cold Cranking Amps definition of 30 seconds before going below 7.2v. I suppose that really isn't representative of any real-world situation, though.
@@eDoc2020 you are correct cold cranking amps have nothing to do with the real world. But still think of it if you allowed 7.2 V at your cold cranking amps it would still not start. In what happens as the voltage keeps dropping the ants go up the motor doesn’t turn so the motor windings heat up and when you heat up the copper windings the resistance goes up and makes it draw more amps in a repeat the cycle until burn up if you were able to hold your finger turning the key without letting it off. But of course most people know better and stop turning the key when the motor doesn’t turn anymore. But in my younger years as a teenager in through my 20s I have seen customers hold their key in the cranking position until smoke started coming out of the windings of the starter and it would burn out.
It would be interesting to draw a controlled current from the unit, say 1A, and measure the voltage across the relay. That would show its real resistance.
There seems to be some trolls who always dislike such videos. The usual suspects: Group A: - Why is your accent funny - Why do you speak like that - I don't understand your english - It's pronounced "xyz" Group B: - They don't understand what he is talking about For Group A: where is your UA-cam channel where you speak flawless english (Queen's english not Murica)? Can your channel survive without you begging for likes/share/subscribes? DGW doesn't and he still puts up quality videos without the begging and constant reminders to subscribe. For Group B: Search for life hacks on UA-cam. You are better suited there
Why is the relay intermittent on and off? Is this to prevent the relay from turning on under full load? Maybe the controller senses the switching of the in car relay (voltage drop) and only turns the relay in the car jumper starter on when the car start relay is off (so the car jumper starter relay is not switching full load)..
From what ive seen these things tend to fail/explode after a few uses , It may just be for light use as in dont use it to jump a car thats battery is completely 0v , I use a jump starter that has super caps in it.
Works so-so before, due to metal components of the unit.Probably doesn't work while starting and might well not work afterwards either. It might be magnetized top to bottom at that point...
2500A is probably very short term. A typical car takes 500A max at startup, and even that's short term. The rating of the relay is also probably continuous so it should handle those peak currents.
Maybe small cars in europe, 500 amps is on the lower side of what I usually see here in the states. Even the cheapest car battery will put out over 500 amps for short bursts.
That protection box MUST have much bigger task, it is only thing what protects your car from over voltages. 16.8VDC is insane high and can damage the car, especially the modern ones. It could helps to protect little if it sense the cranking and triggers the relay only for that moment. Still, super dodgy and super dangerous product. If that "fancy smartphone power bank" could deliver 2500A, this relay can explode :P Even that 70A label there is highly questionable, possible it is the peak value only. And why people need the jump starters? Fix your car if it need too much jump starting, buy new battery, turn off some power hungry accessories and drive longer distances. It is not bad idea to charge the battery by battery charger if you can not to do anything above. If you do not planning to drive by car long time, use battery maintainer or disconnect battery. Yes that last part is bit questionable because even that simple thing can destroy the car... I do not understand what the car engineers smoked before they designed the modern car electrical systems... Ok, disconnection does not damage but inrush current on connecting can damage. Easy way to limit the inrush current is by resistor or car test light (incandescent bulb only, not the led rubbish) before the negative terminal re-installation. It helps to recharge the all car capacitors slower and no inrush current damage.
the diode inside the mosfet is drawn the right way. The mosfet is meant to be an overdicharge/overcurrent/short circuit protection. It doesn't protect the jumpstarter battery from being charged by the alternator.
The starter relay in modern cars is usually only quite small if it needs one at all, capable of at most a few tens of amperes to have a safety margin, with some back EMF protection (if you're lucky). It, or the key switch directly activates the massive solenoid/relay built onto the starter motor itself, which both mechanically extends the bendix gear to mesh with the starter ring gear, and connects the main starting current of hundreds of amperes to the motor windings. There are so many different types of engines, starters, etc; geared or direct drive, and different environmental and maintenance conditions, that it'd be really hard to get an average current, but initial crank is towards 200A, and continuing turn over is 70 to 100A for smallish well maintained engines in warmish conditions.
@@Tekwyzard Thanks for the response. Question remains; what is the current limitation/rating (initial and sustained) for the contacts in the relay on the starter motor? (This is the relay i meant in my initial remark/question.)
I would never buy or carry a time bomb like this in my car. Imagine leaving a fully charged one in the car and the outside temp drops to -30ºC and the electrolyte freezes and bursts the membrane and you'll have an explosive lithium fire! Good luck putting that out. Fire departments are struggling with lithium battery fires like those on a Tesla EV. An honest mistake that will cause a fire and burn down your car! A good design would be like used in EV cars. When the temp drops bellow zero, the computer uses the power from the battery, to keep the battery from freezing. This self-heating will eventually drain the battery and a drained battery can freeze all it wants. It will not be usable anymore, but it won't be a fire hazard either. I live in Canada, and I have to think about temperature.
I just calculated that, funny enough. Probably 150-200msec at that current, by then it will read "SC" and open the relay, burning the contacts on the way.
Я нихуя не понял, но мне кажется он говорит о том что вместо того чтобы тратить деньги на беспонтовые диоды шотке, лучше потратьте эти деньги на 4ю секцию аккумуляторов. 4S имеет рабочий диапазон напряжений от 10v до 16.8v и обратный заряд от генератора в 14.4v никак не сможет им навредить, но напряжение бустера станет больше и это положительно скажется на шансах завести машину!
All of those lithium jumpstart packs are garbage. They will never start a truck or SUV. If you are lucky they may start a bike or a lawn mower. You need a jumpstart pack with a big sealed lead acid battery if you want something that will actually work. They don't need any fancy protection that drops half your voltage under load.
It would be interesting to see just how many Amps it actually takes to start a car in a typical situation (connected to a flat battery unable to turn the engine over and allow time from connection to walk to start the car and typically crank for 4-5 seconds) monitoring voltage (at pack and at starter) and current through out, I might attempt this myself.
I love the happy car in the illustration! 😁
How ur so early??
@@aptube6754 probably a patreon subscriber
@@aptube6754 Patreon
maybee a Tesla? 😄
I can never get enough of this accent.
I love your videos.
I also expected a bank of mosfets to do the job.
Relays are very handy but mosfets are better, no contacts to spark and go bad.
The car looked very happy :-D
The cat didn't look too interested, no change there lol.
yes, several mosfets in parallel would be a better solution. They could switch way more current without taking as much space. But they are probably more expensive and there's still the problem with the reverse diode...
mosfets have the nasty habbit of failing closed, relays on the other hand tend to burn the contacts off, failing open...
@@AKAtheA i have seen power relays weld shut, but i see your point :-)
@@DiodeGoneWild i don't suppose putting mosfets in the negative wire would help much.
@@AKAtheA I have abused many relays for fun, and the only times i have seen them fail open, is with massive overload, where the contacts melt away.
In a slight overload situation it is actually very common for the contracts to stick i.e failing closed.
I once saw Big Clive use a calibrated piece of water pipe as a current shunt for testing short circuit current on a jump pack.
Yes, it peaks at 500 amps for half a second and then one battery swells and the current drops to a few amps. Not very impressive performance.
(something has just blown like a fuse)
A very popular Tacklife jumpstarter also contains the same 70A relay. I was called upon to try to repair one that would not charge. It had been overused/overheated and the Li-Ion cells had leaked resulting in the positive connection lead to the pack corroding and falling off. The relay was fine.
70A for the relay is make or brake current. In on state it can pass a lot more. It even says in the datasheet "max switching current."
No chance. If you believe that than you'll also believe the 100milliohm contact resistance; at 70A the contacts would dropping 7 volts and be dissipating almost half a kilowatt of heat.
@@ferrumignis Believe what? The current marked on relays is always switching current. That's why there's often two separate values given for ac and dc.
@@kasparroosalu Want to address the contact resistance?
@@ferrumignis lol, it's obviously not 0.1 Ohms. Datasheets for 70A automotive relays list initial voltage drop @ 10A 10-20 mV. So 1-2 mOhms. Also that power pack will not deliver 2500A, you'll be lucky to get 500A based on capacity of the lipo.
@@kasparroosalu I see, so you don't believe the 100mOhm in the datasheet, but you believe it's rated for more current than the datasheet says?
Glad I'm not the only one who is enthused by cheap oscilloscopes. I have a Tektronix 2230 100mhz but there's something about these cheap scopes that keeps bringing me back for more.
I also have a Tektronix scope, but my little aliexpress DSO150 can often be found on my desk as it's super convenient
simple solution for 8:10 is to implement an ideal diode configuration using two MOSFETS with opposing drains. Provides space savings, reduces complexity and eliminates contact wear.
I like the alternating cat eye colours ~ 11:36.
What, how ur so early??
Bruh
@@aptube6754 Patreon supporter
That relay contacts will stuck after couples of starting events.. because the negative side of the battery is already connected. So when the relay contacts closed there will be full current running through those contacts. And normally relay contacts are not connected properly.
The relay does NOT turn on the starter. It turns on when you connect it to the existing car battery. In those cases it should always be well below 70A. When the starter runs, the relay acts pretty much exactly like the wires that connect to the car, it is just a passive metal conductor.
@@Basement-Science You just need to be careful not to connect it when the car's starter is already trying to run.
@@eDoc2020 Yeah I guess, but then most cars have the control for the starter not in the same place as the car battery. :)
So unless you have 2 or more people using the device AND dont follow the instructions, it should be impossible to mess this up.
If that relay tries to break in an actual scenario to prevent backfeed, there is likely to be arcing across the contacts due interruption of high currents.
The wires also say 8AWg on them. Not to mention that little compass. Those are surprisingly easy to reverse magnetise...
Google "Ideal diode mosfet circuit" and you'll see some circuits with 2 x P-MOSFET connected back to back in the + supply path.
You'll also see 2 mosfets in a TP4056 Li-ion cell charger/protection modules, they're used to cut off the connection to the battery, if an Over Current (OC), or And over voltage (OV) conditions occur.
The reason they didn't use a MOSFET instead of a relay, is no MOSFET can carry that much current, even for a short time.
Using a beefy enough industrial transistor would probably cost hundreds.
It would be interesting to see just how many Amps it actually takes to start a car in a typical situation (connected to a flat battery unable to turn the engine over and allow time from connection to walk to start the car and typically crank for 4-5 seconds) monitoring voltage (at pack and at starter) and current through out, I might attempt this myself.
Jumpstarts are not likely to charge your battery, but rather they should turn on at startup. Hence the name jumpstarter
well, they definitely don't fully charge it, but even just a little surface charge allows the lead acid battery to supply a short pulse of high current. Even a very little extra charge reduces the internal resistance by orders of magnitude.
@@DiodeGoneWild Oh, ok, my bad. It makes sense. I dont have any experience with lead acid battery. Thx for reply, you're the best.
Helpful video 👍
Finally I can see your face❤️, thanks for sharing your Instagram profile...
diode'ssss faceeeeee. at lasttttt
His drawings are amazing! This man is very talented in many ways, not just electronics...
bloooody helllll :)
The relay is probably appropriate for the cables. No way they'd pass 2500A.
Maybe 250A for a few seconds.
Just did the math. 8 awg should handle 250 A for about 11 seconds if it can withstand a 50C temperature rise. Probably good for 22s if we assume 90C rated insulation and a battery that failed due to the cold. the 2500A "rating" is probably the short current, or just some random number to imply its stronger than a brand new, room temperature, truck battery.
@@deltab9768 awesome, thanks!
I just picked the 250A out of thin air but pleased to hear it's in the right area of guesswork!
I know I've melted 35mm2 cables (2AWG?) with ~7-800A.
Chinese manufacturers usually rates battery short circuit current to be more impressive , but propably the 2500amps if its even possible is for very brief moment when the starter coil is charging. I think 200-300 amps at max for few seconds is the maximum current of the battery, but once the starter is rotating the current dont need to be more than that.
@@bmvfabrika8148 Yes. As far as I can tell the reason car batteries are 500-1000 CCA is to account for some wear and tear before needing to be replaced. If this thing can give 350A for 5 or 10 seconds, that is probably more than adequate.
Could you please make a video about your Equipment/Tools and how you got your knowledge !! :D
Other DiodeGoneWild-Fans may upvote/like this so we all can learn something !
Thank you AND More Salt !!!
MR. dan can you please make explanation and schematics for 12V 50A 600W power supply
I definitely plan to explain the schematic of it, but I have to draw it first :)
@@DiodeGoneWild thanks man , you are one of best electrical channels on UA-cam
Thanks for your videos... but I will ask you a simple question do recommend it or not? and if not which car jump starter do you recommend?
Would love to see more on DC to DC converters. Particularly 12V - 300V+ as trying to make a DC capacity discharge ignition system. At the moment just trying to modify a purchased module to do the capacitor charging bit but would like to make my own.
what circuit would take 2500Amps for several minutes as a testing load? Oil cooled full metal shunts?
Thank you very much mr. DGW, very good explained & greet me your sweet cat. 🐈☺️
Just looking at the gauge of the jumper wire it will become a hot resistor dropping the voltage at 2500 amps.
Under load voltage can not drop below 10.5 volts.
Amps will go up at lower volts but not do work just become heat making higher resistance in the Circuit.
My understanding is the battery voltage is allowed to dip to 7v when starting. But yes, the wire can't really handle 2500 amps. 2500a is the calculated current needed to melt 8awg wire in just 1 second.
@@eDoc2020 in automotive all the ECM‘s and the PCM‘s and body control modules start dropping out below 9.5 V.
Even back in the 60s and 70s prior to any computers when testing the battery on starting cranking voltage did not allowed to go below 9.8 to 9.5 V
10.5 V was considered excellent and extremely good
@@coldfinger459sub0 Perhaps, I was going by the Cold Cranking Amps definition of 30 seconds before going below 7.2v. I suppose that really isn't representative of any real-world situation, though.
@@eDoc2020 you are correct cold cranking amps have nothing to do with the real world.
But still think of it if you allowed 7.2 V at your cold cranking amps it would still not start.
In what happens as the voltage keeps dropping the ants go up the motor doesn’t turn so the motor windings heat up and when you heat up the copper windings the resistance goes up and makes it draw more amps in a repeat the cycle until burn up if you were able to hold your finger turning the key without letting it off.
But of course most people know better and stop turning the key when the motor doesn’t turn anymore.
But in my younger years as a teenager in through my 20s I have seen customers hold their key in the cranking position until smoke started coming out of the windings of the starter and it would burn out.
@DiodeGoneWild Can you make a video about those dangerous water electrolysers but then with SALT, and also on 400V?
Love it! My cheapie just has 6 Schottky diodes.
I was planning to buy this, it is sold arourd 125 us $ in my country. Do you advise this. Is it worthed ?
Dobar dan gospodine.Kako mozem da vas kontaktiram
Super work Like always
A very smart and beautiful cat............
I've said it before and I'll say it again: that cat probably knows more about electrical engineering than I do at this point. 😉
Your cat 🐈 is very intelligent 😁😁
Nice, thanks.
It would be interesting to draw a controlled current from the unit, say 1A, and measure the voltage across the relay. That would show its real resistance.
Yes. You would have to measure it directly on the PCB, otherwise the wires will influence the result significantly.
@@Basement-Science You are right. It would also be nice to know the resistance of all the wires and connections too, right to the croc-clips
There seems to be some trolls who always dislike such videos. The usual suspects:
Group A:
- Why is your accent funny
- Why do you speak like that
- I don't understand your english
- It's pronounced "xyz"
Group B:
- They don't understand what he is talking about
For Group A: where is your UA-cam channel where you speak flawless english (Queen's english not Murica)? Can your channel survive without you begging for likes/share/subscribes? DGW doesn't and he still puts up quality videos without the begging and constant reminders to subscribe.
For Group B: Search for life hacks on UA-cam. You are better suited there
That's quite a compass you have there😆
superb superb 👌👌👌👌👌
Hi. Are you still planing to convert those cheap led chinese smps into lab bench power supplies? I'm waiting for this
Was hopping for a capacitor to reduce the peak current. I'm more worried that the cells will get too high of a load and will swell up over time.
Could you feed it 14.4V to simulate the alternator going and see if it cuts off?
Why is the relay intermittent on and off? Is this to prevent the relay from turning on under full load? Maybe the controller senses the switching of the in car relay (voltage drop) and only turns the relay in the car jumper starter on when the car start relay is off (so the car jumper starter relay is not switching full load)..
It looks very dodgy and dangerooous.
...and when the relay contacts melt and fuse together ...BOOM... explosion!
I approve.
I was going to say that i missed your cat but you didn't forget :D
Think you fo all your videos ...its my favorite .can you demonstrate the oscilloscope ussr model сг-127 or any one
...you are the best
From what ive seen these things tend to fail/explode after a few uses , It may just be for light use as in dont use it to jump a car thats battery is completely 0v , I use a jump starter that has super caps in it.
Can you make video of your diy oscilloscope? Thank you.
Does the compass work while the thing is running ?
Works so-so before, due to metal components of the unit.Probably doesn't work while starting and might well not work afterwards either. It might be magnetized top to bottom at that point...
Great video
nice as always 👌🙏🇮🇷
On paper you draw nice car. :D
Hello, do you have a schematic diagram of the protective circuit? Thanks.
Plisss rivewu charger jete c8 4.8A
Wait this video was released on 9:10am?!
2500A is probably very short term. A typical car takes 500A max at startup, and even that's short term.
The rating of the relay is also probably continuous so it should handle those peak currents.
Maybe small cars in europe, 500 amps is on the lower side of what I usually see here in the states.
Even the cheapest car battery will put out over 500 amps for short bursts.
I can guarantee that if you stripped the insulation off those cables, the actual copper cross-section would be tiny - maybe not even 6 mm².
That protection box MUST have much bigger task, it is only thing what protects your car from over voltages. 16.8VDC is insane high and can damage the car, especially the modern ones. It could helps to protect little if it sense the cranking and triggers the relay only for that moment. Still, super dodgy and super dangerous product.
If that "fancy smartphone power bank" could deliver 2500A, this relay can explode :P Even that 70A label there is highly questionable, possible it is the peak value only.
And why people need the jump starters? Fix your car if it need too much jump starting, buy new battery, turn off some power hungry accessories and drive longer distances. It is not bad idea to charge the battery by battery charger if you can not to do anything above. If you do not planning to drive by car long time, use battery maintainer or disconnect battery. Yes that last part is bit questionable because even that simple thing can destroy the car... I do not understand what the car engineers smoked before they designed the modern car electrical systems... Ok, disconnection does not damage but inrush current on connecting can damage. Easy way to limit the inrush current is by resistor or car test light (incandescent bulb only, not the led rubbish) before the negative terminal re-installation. It helps to recharge the all car capacitors slower and no inrush current damage.
Im surprised there was no varistor or snuffer in the protection box
At 3:13, you have drawn the diode backwards. The diode will not be a problem in reality.
the diode inside the mosfet is drawn the right way. The mosfet is meant to be an overdicharge/overcurrent/short circuit protection. It doesn't protect the jumpstarter battery from being charged by the alternator.
Interesting to know what the current limit is of the starter relay in an average car. Does anybody know that?
The starter relay in modern cars is usually only quite small if it needs one at all, capable of at most a few tens of amperes to have a safety margin, with some back EMF protection (if you're lucky). It, or the key switch directly activates the massive solenoid/relay built onto the starter motor itself, which both mechanically extends the bendix gear to mesh with the starter ring gear, and connects the main starting current of hundreds of amperes to the motor windings. There are so many different types of engines, starters, etc; geared or direct drive, and different environmental and maintenance conditions, that it'd be really hard to get an average current, but initial crank is towards 200A, and continuing turn over is 70 to 100A for smallish well maintained engines in warmish conditions.
@@Tekwyzard Thanks for the response. Question remains; what is the current limitation/rating (initial and sustained) for the contacts in the relay on the starter motor? (This is the relay i meant in my initial remark/question.)
I would never buy or carry a time bomb like this in my car.
Imagine leaving a fully charged one in the car and the outside temp drops to -30ºC and the electrolyte freezes and bursts the membrane and you'll have an explosive lithium fire!
Good luck putting that out. Fire departments are struggling with lithium battery fires like those on a Tesla EV.
An honest mistake that will cause a fire and burn down your car!
A good design would be like used in EV cars. When the temp drops bellow zero, the computer uses the power from the battery, to keep the battery from freezing.
This self-heating will eventually drain the battery and a drained battery can freeze all it wants. It will not be usable anymore, but it won't be a fire hazard either.
I live in Canada, and I have to think about temperature.
Test it at 2500a !!
Bongkar isi kabel nya
Looooooooooooove your videos
We got the face rewial on instagram!!!!
WTF does it have a toy compass?
I really don't think the jumper wires can handle 2500A for more than a few milli seconds.
I just calculated that, funny enough. Probably 150-200msec at that current, by then it will read "SC" and open the relay, burning the contacts on the way.
Maybe its 2500mA not 2500A
When you said you recently started your Instagram, I immediately opened the description and looked for the Instagram link
Я нихуя не понял, но мне кажется он говорит о том что вместо того чтобы тратить деньги на беспонтовые диоды шотке, лучше потратьте эти деньги на 4ю секцию аккумуляторов. 4S имеет рабочий диапазон напряжений от 10v до 16.8v и обратный заряд от генератора в 14.4v никак не сможет им навредить, но напряжение бустера станет больше и это положительно скажется на шансах завести машину!
👍👍👍👍😄
All of those lithium jumpstart packs are garbage. They will never start a truck or SUV. If you are lucky they may start a bike or a lawn mower.
You need a jumpstart pack with a big sealed lead acid battery if you want something that will actually work. They don't need any fancy protection that drops half your voltage under load.
relay in this thing... I don't know, as I see this: not so good idea
As usual Chinese products are deceiving! But which western models are available on the market?
#GazaUnderAttack
#savesheikhjarrah
#palastineunderattack
5 seconds ago, fast lol
Yes bro!
Lol
Cat is correct
ha ha ha, that car, LMFAO
😂
Very informative but Jesus What an accent😂
I can't with this accent
Your explanation is great but your accent is very annoying!
Why u r speaking like that man !!!!
At least he speaks better than your written english...
Aren't you supposed to be fasting?
Some Muslim you are?!
Czech English I think
Its his lovely accent and it is 100% authentic. I had a Czech friend with a very similar accent. It grows on you after a while.
@@deineroehre 😂😂😂 youre dangerooouus
It would be interesting to see just how many Amps it actually takes to start a car in a typical situation (connected to a flat battery unable to turn the engine over and allow time from connection to walk to start the car and typically crank for 4-5 seconds) monitoring voltage (at pack and at starter) and current through out, I might attempt this myself.