One thing that seems to help is I do the half-press of the shutter down as well, but for some reason if I use the second joint of my index finger to press rather than the fingertip I get more consistently sharp shots. It feels more stable for me, like pushing down with the tip of the finger pushes the whole camera down a little bit.
@Steven Klingler Thank you so much! And I have no idea. A large part is based on people staying home and slowing the spread. When it does eventually slow down, then it's the issue of deciding whether it's the right time to reopen stores/restaurants/travel/etc. It would be detrimental to reopen everything, to then have to shut everything back down. A lot of uncertainty right now!
@@alchemist_x79 Yup, that makes a lot of sense! Using the second joint is less pressure than using your index, which can definitely be a noticeable difference at low shutter speeds!
Great tips Stef, I tried releasing the AF ON button when the focus locks where I wanted, but some times I see AF confirmation blinker(in the viewfinder) goes off,, especially with songbirds. I think that's because they move pretty fast and hence I continue pressing the AF ON button throughout.
That part when you broke away to shoot the blue bird was one of the best parts of the film. You're enjoyable to watch. So many others are like my 8th grade math teacher. I only have 4 subscriptions. Now I have 5.
I bought a 200-600 partly because of your videos! Thanks for a helpful video like this. Most 200-600 videos are just people comparing it to a 100-400. Appreciate the specific information provided here. Helps a beginner like myself. Cheers!
Great tips. One thing I found that helps me is to remove the lens hood. Unless it's absolutely needed to reduce sun hitting the lens front, I remove because it catches a lot of wind easily.
I really love your videos! So extremely helpful! I’m in bird photography since quite a while but I’ve had a lot of blurry ones that were not sharp. Quite frustrating but your videos are a real real help! Many many thanks!
Always love to watch your videos. Very knowledgeable about the birds and the camera gear and the photography. I'll try setting 2 on the lens next time i'm out! (Oh if you read this, which video did you mention ecozones in? or can you make another one talking about them?!)
Don’t know why i missed this a few months ago but great video and tips. I have been photographing Barred Owls a lot over the past four months in a local woodland which is always fairly dark and that much more so at the corners of the day when the owls are typically active. Consequently, I frequently work with ridiculously slow shutter speeds. My main setup is Nikon D850, gripped, 600mm f4 on a tripod (sometimes with a 1.4 teleconverter too) which, when its on my shoulder, is 23lbs. Key thing I do which is a bit different to you (or in addition) is that I use a remote trigger (Vello Freewave and reasonably priced) when on the tripod and shoot in Live View mode with the “Pin” focus mode (am thinking similar to the Sony’s flexible spot medium or small?) and utilizing the electronic/silent shutter mode. I can then tap the screen to move the focus point to get it right on the eye, then hands off the camera and use the remote trigger. Key also is actually to completely turn off vibration reduction on the lens because at the slow shutter speeds where I work (typically 1/15th down to a full second) the vibration reduction mode actually adds motion blur (amplified by the 600mm). By also using continuous shooting mode I also attempt to get short bursts. The challenge with this technique is that if the bird so much as moves during the shot, it’s blurred and trash but when they hold still, the results are often magical: tack sharp images and with the resultant comparatively low ISOs, high MP count of the camera, noise free and often rendering wall-hangers. Would love to know if you’ve tried this too. Thanks again.
I never tried it but I heard a couple benefits to Mode 3 for slow shutter would be that it doesn’t hide how much you are actually shaking in the viewfinder allowing you to adjust yourself to be even more steady pre-stabilization, and because stabilization is only active during the time of exposure that means the floating stabilization element is centered at that critical time to allow for the most breathing room for compensation. Sounds nice in theory, have you tested that at all? Also I have the same issue with Mode 1.
Yeah I tried it when I was down in Ecuador, and I felt like I was still getting better hit rates with Mode 2. Then again, I think it would depend on how much you're shaking to begin with. Somebody who shakes a lot while handheld will likely notice a bigger difference between the two, I assume. It would be fun to test Mode 3 while out on a boat or in high winds where a lot of movement is inevitable.
i had the same experience with mode 1, additionally it seems to me that with faster shutterspeed the OSS gets worse (1/1000+), however this might also be due to me using an APSC camera (a6500).
I've been turning off OSS somewhere around 1/2000th, and I've had some success. I'll need to do more thorough testing between having it on and off at fast shutter speeds to see if there's a big difference.
This was very helpful. I have a trip planned for the end if the month. There are supposed to be over 300 varieties of birds where I'm going. Hoping my canon 75 300 4 will be able to do the job for me. 50 years of photography experience won't hurt either 😊😅
Thank you! It's my dream to go back to Africa. My first time around I wasn't into Bird Photography yet so I missed a ton of incredible photos opportunities. 🤦♂️
@@StefanoIaniro Let me know if you want to come and make some more videos when the world is right again. You can contact us me the website www.pangolinphoto.com. Cheers. Toby
Hey, had to go back and find this video because I remembered you talked about the 600mm steady shot modes. Ive been using mode 2 like you suggested but haven't had much luck (with shutter speeds under 1/320. The official purpose of mode 2 is for panning subjects. I just done some tests with all the modes with slow shutter speeds 1/50 sec and all modes have similar results, burst of 5 and there might be 2 soft images hand held just on a still object. All I can do is test it out on the field.
Another relevant video for me, thanks Stefano. I recently upgraded to the A7R4 and I am struggling with soft images. My ISOs are all fine (no more than 800), shutter speeds between 1/250-500 and I use small flex spot. But the eyes, are still a bit off with the 100-400 GM. I am shooting hand held because I'm usually walking in the woods behind my house. The images are good, but I'm just not getting (yet) tack sharp eyes. I'll keep trying and watch more of your videos :)
Thanks for the video. I have struggled with the 200-600 and A7RIV combo. I can handhold my 600/4GM on A7RIV at low SS and can also get consistent/reliable results with fast SS and BIF. I can use my 200-600 on my A9II and get consistent and reliable results at slow and fast SS. However combining the 200-600 and A7RIV has been a headache to say the least. One thing I did notice recently is that Mode 1 OSS was worse than Mode 3 or turning OSS off entirely(with fast SS). I hadn't tried Mode 2 much at all but will give that a try next outing. I'm glad that someone else has noticed a difference with Mode 1 vs other modes as I thought I might be imagining things. Based on many, many user reports on forums like Fred Miranda there is no doubt in my mind that the specific combo of A7RIV and 200-600 has some sort of issue going on compared to all other Sony lens/camera combos.
Hi Stefano! Thank you for your tips. I´m new to wildlife and bird photography. Your videos are very helpful particular this one. I bought the 200-600 this week, and I´m looking forward to testing the lens tomorrow. I was uncertain which lens I should by, the 100-400 GM or the 200-600 G lens. Like I mentioned, now I´m very excited to practice. Best regards Thomas
Stefano Ianiro Wildlife Yes so far I really do! The day before yesterday I photographed some deer and I had a good hit rate. Even with ISO 2000 at the 7r4 I’m quite happy with the results! Best regards from the Baltic Sea.
Love your videos Man !!!! Have you done a customization video on the Sony A1. Been a Nikon guy since the mid 70’s (yeah, I’m old) and the Sony A1 is a whole new deal. The D500 and D850 are sitting on the shelf…. Want to, but haven’t tried to set up back button focusing yet, or any other customizations. I’m soooo confused….. Thanks for your great work !!!!!
Thank you so much sir ! I have a Mft g9 with the cheaper lens and i have always had problems in low light especially in my garden. Today i used your technique and it worked perfectly. I went from 1000 iso and over to 500 . I used slightly higher at 100 ss but it was enough. Thanks again 👍👍👍👍
Hi Stefano. I stumbled across one of your video's yesterday and have since subscribed. Great vids, thanks for sharing ☺. Quick question, you suggest releasing the focus button for static birds, but doesn't the image stabilisation only work whilst it's pressed? Or do you still get the benefits during the exposure?
nice video! I happen to have same exact setup (A7RIV and 200600)... Recently added the battery grip and feel it was the best investment! it really improves ergonomics and balance with the R4 /200-600 combo.. plus double battery life and natural vertical shooting. Worth every penny
First, I want to say, I really enjoy your videos. Very informative and very genuine. In this video, you state that you get your best results in IS setting 2. My question is: Do you use setting 2 (or any IS at all) when shooting stills from a tripod? I only ask because the camera was mounted during that statement, when you shot the blue bird. Also: Which setting do you use when shooting BIF?
Hey, really glad you enjoy the videos! After doing the summer update on the a7R4, I've been having a lot more success with Setting 1 than I originally did. So now I use a combo of both. When shooting on a tripod, I tend to keep it on Setting 1 if I'm doing slower shutter speeds. And if I'm getting higher (above 1/1000th), I'll turn the Lens IS off. For BIF, I'm 99% of the time using Setting 2. Hope this helps! 🙂
@@StefanoIaniro Thank you very much. Thanks for your help. I love my 200-600. I lost the use of my 150-600C when I dropped it accidentally. Gave me an excuse to buy the 200-600.
Nice video. I like the message about not continuously holding the back button focus button. I’m definitely guilty of that. For static birds I use the barrel button to switch to manual focus with magnification and peaking. I learned this technique from a Mark Smith video. I’m excited to try lowering the shutter speed even further. Tony Northup has a video that talks about the reciprocal rule. (Taking short bursts) I’ve implemented that and seemed to get a handful of keepers. Can you make a video on what settings you have when walking down a trail hoping for birds in flight? Do you use wide or zone? Responsiveness of 5? I seem to have problems acquiring focus for bif initially. Great video!
Thank you! And I use a similar technique but have the MF switch set to a custom button on a camera. Super helpful for both photos and videos. I tend to avoid Wide AF area for pretty much everything. IMO it's too big of a focus area and increases the chances the AF will jump focus. I tend to stick to responsiveness of 5. A good trick is something I learned when getting into birding with binoculars. The trick is to prefocus your binoculars/camera at a distance that you think you're most likely to encounter a bird at. That way, if a bird pops out, hopefully the autofocus doesn't have far to hunt before acquiring focus. I try doing this every time I finish photographing a bird that was either really close or really far and try to prefocus to a more "neutral" distance.
Thanks for the info. I am using a cheap kit lens 55-200 nikkor on a d71oo hand me down☹☹ no matter what still have to achieve a focused picture, well sharp sharp! I do notice that how hard i try i see that little focus square moving about as i hand hold and squeeze the shutter. Will try hard. One day perhaps. All the best.
Thanks for this, I have been trying slow shutter speeds lately, and the results are not always the best, I will try some of your tips! And I will start posting some of my bird photography videos as well! 😁 (Southeast Asia region)
Mode 2 is the panning mode. BTW if you use tripod then it affect the stabilisation so i think this is why you have more success with mode2. I got supper sharp images with mode1 handhald with my A7III but I prefer 1/250 or above so i have no expreience with very slow ss. I use mode2 for BIF.
Yeah it's different with the a7iii than it is with the A7RIV. I can use mode 1 with my a7iii, but with the A7RIV mode 1 is pretty inconsistent, tripod or not.
I have missed so many opportunities to capture birds in flight using a tripod that for a while i quit using it altogether. I could never obtain tack sharp photos hand holding the camera so I improvised using any tree branch or perch i could find to help stabilise the camera . Using a 200 to 500 mm lens holding it up and keeping it steady enough to capture sharp images without using a tripod was one of the most challenging feats that I had ..that was until i came up with an idea that enabled me to have the best of two worlds . I simply mounted some memmory foam on top of my tripod head and taped it down. Now ican rest my camera or elbow on it and take advantage of the stabilisation the tripod offers and because i'm not fixed to it I can quickly lift it up off the base and capture birds in flight that I would have otherwise missed . I am strong enough to lift the tripod and camera off the ground and have done that to capture birds flying past and im sure im not the only one frustrated with tripods ..try using a base instead of mounting your camera onto your tripod head and see for yourself before commenting please !
i too found Mode 2 best... Also be sure to check out Mark Smiths A7RIV Setup guide. His configuration is fantastic and has really helped me get way more keepers! Good luck
Never Back button focus. I need the buttons AF-ON and AEL for other AF aerea's or even a totally different setup (recall custom hold 1 and 2) when walking the fields and trying to photograph as much flying birds as possible versus when they go and sit down, really sit down at ease or ready to take off.
Absolutely Why use two fingers to do one thing. Makes no sense too me when my main dial metering/auto focus works fine for me. I will use my rear button and thumb to instantly change one shot/ai servo,different focus patterns or camera settings. Also with pro bodies you can register your preferred af point selection so you can switch between say a single point to a focus point cluster. Just by holding or tapping a rear button. That is one of the times I will use my thumb and a rear button. But only for changing my camera setup. Like register recall functions shooting and af off. But I will not use rear buttons for back button focusing alone. It's seems much simpler to focus and shoot with the same front top button and really just makes complete sense to use this method for af tracking and shooting. WHEN BACK BUTTON IS USEFUL If you're focusing on a stationary subject and you have the eye in perfect focus you can stop pressing the back button and not worry that your Auto focus will grab something else while you're shooting a continues burst of images. Although you can also get the same results using top main button to half press and have one of the back buttons set as AF-OFF and simply press that to stop focus then shoot your continues burst of images. WHEN BACK BUTTON IS NOT USEFUL. While pressing back button Auto Focus you can't select another focus point. Let's say you're shooting and decide to move the focus point on a bird that's just to right of center but you have set the focus at center af point. Now if you try to press the a.f. selection button its impossible. But if you have the top main dial set as a.f. half press all you need do is hit the a.f. selection button and move your point to the desired new position. Some of my preferred uses for my back buttons. Are as follows... AF-On , back * or depth of field buttons for af-off, af point select single to multi point, depth of field preview, register recall or one shot/ai servo one touch switch.
Hey John, glad you enjoyed the video! For BIF, it kinda depends the situation and the effect I'm going for in the image (ex. if I want motion blur in the wings). But to generalize it, probably my most used settings are: 1/1000th to 1/2000th, Zone AF, Lens Image Stabilization off, Handheld so I can quickly adjust on my height/movement on the fly, auto ISO.
So cool how you get the shot of the blue bird just in between! love it! I'm currently on the brink of investing in a proper tripod and am unsure about what kind of head I should go with. Apart from photography, I also do a lot of video. First I thought that a gimbal is the way to go, but for video they aren't the best. So a fluid video head might be more suitable... Moreover, I hike quite a bit with my gear so weight is also an important aspect. What do you think? i see you use a ball head in this video? Could I have your expertise please? Thanks in advance and have a good week. cheers Tom
Haha thank you! So happy to see them back. And I've been in the market for a new tripod, as well. Problem is I'd like to try out a few heavier duty models before actually buying, but the selection is pretty limited at my local camera stores. My plan is to get a heavier duty carbon fiber tripod - like a gizto or really right stuff, with a strong ball head. IMO, I rather my tripod meet my video needs more than my photo needs, since I always use it for video and only sometimes use it for photos. For that reason, I rather have a ball head over a gimbal head. It's a nice compromise between a gimbal and an actual video head. I can make a video in the future when I finally make a tripod decision!
@@StefanoIaniro Haha, great to see that you're at the same decision as me. Carbon fibre tripod all the way, I had a look at LeoFoto, which is a more budget friendly copy of RRS. Yet, I'm so indecisive in terms of what head suits my needs best... thx for your reply and am looking forward to seeing what your decision will be. Cheers Tom
Fantastic video Stefano. I'm also a wildlife photographer and I just created a UA-cam channel, with some birds that I recorded. And luckily I found your job, congratulations.
Thank you for your advice. What do you think about using the silent shooter (available for sony cameras)? Birds will stay a little longer, I think. And also I found that the white lenses don't help, maybe using camouflage or even darker auto-adherent paper over the lens.
Haha, I'm so happy the Bluebirds are back. I'm hoping to film their whole nesting season. And yeah, Red-winged Blackbirds in the beginning. Throughout the video there are several others calling: Black-capped Chickadee, Canada Goose, Blue Jay, Eastern Bluebird, American Robin, to name a few. I had a list of about 20 or so birds while filming this video lol.
A couple other things I've found help. If just going after perched birds at slower SS then using e-shutter can reduce any potential shutter vibrations. (Of course e-shutter should not be used for faster subjects due to the slow sensor readout times (unless you have an A9/A9II)) Also I find lowering the FPS helps. I find the A7RIV is best with just 1-3 shots at a time for slow SS. If I burst a short 0.5-1s burst at H+ (10FPS) then it usually is just the first and maybe one or two others that are critically sharp.
Hopefully it helps! Oddly enough, after the firmware update from this summer I've noticed more dropped shots with this combo. I wonder if they'll release another firmware update or if they'll leave the R users in the dust
@@StefanoIaniro don’t think I ever did that update so maybe I should keep it put then lol. I’ve heard mix reviews with the RIV and 200-600 but contacting Sony support they refuse to say there is an issue and it’s user error. Which sucks because it’s my favorite lens and my favorite camera. Do you keep oss on with bif or off?
great tips, I just notices this video is from 2 years back so wanted to know are all these restrictions also applicable now that AF systems have increased with A1 etc.
My thoughts exactly.. I have the A7IV with the Tamron 150-500.. Damn near 100% hit rate.. regardless of shutter speed…My settings are Manual mode, 1/1000 (starting point), aperture wide open and auto ISO. Focus area Tracking Spot Small with bird eye AF on. I can’t begin to explain how accurate and precise that bird eye af is… It’s almost like cheating.. it’s so sticky on the A7IV 😀 I typically lower my shutter speed based on the bird’s movements. If it’s calm and steady the lower I’ll go to get a cleaner image. Short bursts work just fine…but definitely no back button focusing. Just can’t comprehend how that even makes sense with a moving subject.
I've recently been turning it off when I'm around 1/2000th and I've had some success. I haven't tested having it on/off at those lower shutter speeds to compare the difference, yet. I'll have to get into that soon!
I have gotten many sharp shots with my 640mm non IS lens. (400mm on crop). You take a lot of shots like 20-30. You get 2-3 sharp ones at that kinda speed.
Hey Stefano, following all your videos and I saw you moved from Sigma to Sony 600MM. I have the Sigma 150-600C along with Sony A7iii, I m also planning to upgrade to Sony 600mm. Can you let me what would inprove vs Sigma with Sony A7iii? I can do handheld slow shutter around 1/125 in Sigma, still not all sharp but 1/250 is better. How low can I get down with the Sony with handheld stabilization and also how does the sharpness compare to along with autofocus speed?
Hey! Happy to hear you're watching my videos. Honestly I noticed an improvement in pretty much everything when it came to the Sony vs the Sigma. Better AF, sharper, better build, more comfortable to hand hold, internal zoom. In my opinion, the only thing better on the Sigma is the price. I did like using the Sigma, but pound for pound the Sony has been better for me. I'm not sure how low you can go, because everyone uses a different technique, but I've shot photos at 1/15th on this setup, handheld. I usually don't shoot that low, but when I'm desperate, I'll usually go down to those very low shutter speeds.
Stefano Ianiro Wildlife Thanks Stefano for the response, I already bought the Sony, was to eager to get my hands on it. Image clarity and sharpness is top notch, stabilization as well. One issue I noticed - When locked on to birds, it’s losing them in the middle, I was trying to shoot the Pied Kingfisher diving and it will always lose lock on focus in the middle, I am using the Sony A7iii, settings I use is wide area lock on focus in AFC mode and HI+, Autofocus responsiveness - 1(locked on), emphasis AF. Is there anything I am missing?
From the settings you mentioned, the one that stands out to me is Wide AF. The downside to wide AF is it's such a large area that your AF has more of a chance to jump focus to something else in the frame. I would recommend trying Zone - it's a smaller AF area, but still covers a decent amount of the frame. It'll take a bit of practice to keep your subject in that smaller AF area, but I really think it's worth it. In most cases, we're not framing our subjects in the outer perimeter of the frame anyways, so those extra AF points while using Wide aren't as useful, IMO. Test it out and see if it helps, and let me know!
I'll use Zone if the bird is moving. To an extent, they are unpredictable when they move so Zone is a good choice. Flexible Spot is great when you have a bit of time to maneuver the AF point to a specific part of the bird. Like when they're perched, feeding, drinking, etc. I also like to use Flexible Spot when they're in thick foliage or they blend in with their surroundings. In those cases, using a larger AF area is usually a losing battle. Let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
@@StefanoIaniro That's perfect! That makes total sense. One thing, if I'm waiting for the bird to arrive in a certain spot like a bird hut, would you use zone with back button focus? But guess there's not much difference if you've pre focused on the hut with flexible spot. Thanks your reply, much appreciated:)
@@peterafilms Mhh I think it would depend the situation. Once you've used your camera/lens combo for a while you can mostly know which situations it may have trouble with auto focusing. How I like to think of it is the bigger the AF area I'm using, the more I trust the AF won't have any issues locking on to the bird. In situations when the bird is similar in color/tone to the background, or when they're backlight, or if there's a lot of branches/foliage, I'll usually defer to the smaller AF point.
@@VinodKumar-wu3pk When I'm using manual focus the 2 most important settings for me are focus peaking and focus magnification. The focus magnification will crop into the image while focusing, which makes it easier to get precise focus on the subject.
Mode 1 will enable image stabilization only when you hold the AF button and/or shutter, whereas mode 3 will enable stabilization all the time, regardless of pressing the AF and/or shutter. Mode 3 uses way more battery power.
I have a question for you. I use D500+ 500mm pf. I handheld while birds are perched. I use single point autofocus. In such cases, I don't want to bump up my shutter speed so I keep it low somewhere in between 650 or 850. I have back button focus enabled and so when I focus on the subject, the focus locks+ vr engaged. Since because the subject is not moving, I release the focus button so it just keep it locked and I fire the shutter button. The Issue here is that the VR is dis engaged because It works only when I keep pressing the back button autofocus. I don't get great images. Can you please share me your thoughts.
Hahaha, thank you. I didn't even know what my settings were at, I just scrambled to actually take a photo lol. My exif data tells me 1/640th, plenty of light available 😀
Hummingbirds are fairly easy to take with slower shutter speeds. I don't have VR turned on so I can steady the lens against a tree or stump. I also try to wedge myself against something. A tripod or monopod is difficult to use for birds, handheld is best, IMO.
Hi! thanks for you video! I've been trying your tips, but definitely I can´t get sharp images, even over 1/800. I have the same gear than you, I don´t know what I am doing wrong, perhaps my pulse is a mess
Very VERY Good. Have you put a Lenscoat on yet I find very protective. Something new HECS® Hunting Apparel reduces your electro radiation field so critters are not aware you are around. Also a heavy duty binocular harness it is great for stabilization and an easy weight reducing carry if on a hike to the outer world or around the zoo!
Thanks so much! I'll need to look into that hunting apparel company. I have a lens coat, but I use a rain sleeve so I have a bit more weather protection!
I think I have more problems with the tripod than hand-held. Do you think is a bad idea using a gimbal head? The more I use it the more I find is probably only good for show. Either way, I am getting vibrations. I am now looking into getting a fluid head instead and hopefully it might help to damp the vibrations. To me, it has to be the head because the legs are already pretty heavy duty with 40mm diameter carbon fiber top legs.
Interesting! I guess it would depend which model of gimbal you're using. Gimbals can be great depending your uses. I do a lot of video and I don't like using a gimbal for video (just personal preference). I enjoy using ball heads, they're a nice balance for photos/videos.
Question about BBF. Usually, birds are not sitting still, don't you hold down the BBF button most of the time and press the shutter button to take the photos?
Yes, for moving birds I'll mostly hold the AF-ON button. But for perched birds, it's not always the best option. That's why I usually just let go if neither of us are moving, unless I'm anticipating there to be some type of action/movement.
@@StefanoIaniro Thanks for the reply. Great video as always. I've tried BBF for a number of times for birding but then realized 80% of the time I had to hold down the BB and press the shutter button. Now I'm using the half-press shutter button for AF-C (AI-Servo) and BB for AF-S. I only use the shutter button most of the time, and occasionally I hold the BB to take it out of AF-C for stationary birds. I guess BBF may be better; however, it takes time to practice.
@@nightcoder5k Thank you! And I wouldn't say back button focus is better in general. It really depends your shooting style and how you have your custom function buttons setup. Like most things in photography, there never is one way of doing it. You gotta go with whatever works best for you 🙂
great tips thanks, do you use no camera strap? i have a peak design slide on the lens( Sigma 60-600mm +mc11+Sony A7III. greetings from the Netherlands...STAY SAFE>
What tripod is that? I had my A7R IV and 200-600mm lens mounted on a tripod that supposedly supports up to 17lbs via the tripod foot while I was photographing some birds in my backyard. I turned to move a chair out my way and my tripod ended up tipping over, which broke both the camera and lens, and I ended up paying $1,400 to get them repaired. I really want a stable tripod to give my arms a break for bird photography...
Oh gosh, that sounds like a nightmare. Sorry to hear that! This was a Sirui ET-2004 which I don't recommend for this setup. I just mounted it on that tripod for demonstration purposes, but the ball head that comes with it is pretty weak. I generally mount mine to the Manfrotto Dual 290, which works, but again isn't the most stable option. I'm looking to upgrade tripods this year. I'm leaning towards Gitzo or Really Right Stuff.
I would strongly suggest you make sure you don't have a misaligned OSS motor on your lens. I have both the 100-400 and the 200-600 and on both mode 1 is clearly superior for perched birds and things not moving. A friend of mine had that same situation with his 70-200 and it turned out to be a problem with the lens. I hand hold down to 1/200 quite regularly at 600mm and get sharp images, that is unless my subject moves.
The way mode 1 works , really it means something must be wrong if its less consistent than mode 2. Certainly in my case mode 1 works better. Might be worth your while going to a camera store and doing some test shots with a different copy.
I think it may also be an issue with the compatibility of the 200-600 with the A7RIV. On my a7iii, Mode 1 seems to be more acceptable. But I'll definitely look into this when camera stores are open again.
@@StefanoIaniro Did you apply the latest firmware update to the camera? There was a focusing issue I believe with this lens on the A7RIV. I'm using it on an A7Riii and with my copy no issues but prior to buying this lens I tried a friend's copy and one time it just bazzed out and nothing was sharp, turned off the camera, remounted the lens and it seemed to work again but it was pretty crazy, something I think with the OSS motors was doing it.
I had great results with both 1 and 2, but then again I only rented it for a few weeks. Maybe somebody who has used it long term could give more insight!
For your info I use a Nikon D7500 + Sigma 150-600mm C lens mounted on a Manfrotto 055 tripod & Lensmaster RH-2 Gimbal head. It is quite a heavy set-up but gives great stability for wildlife images.
Muy útil la información de este vídeo Stefano, muy de agradecer la información. Hasta ahora venía trabajando con el punto tres del objetivo, probaré con el dos. Una pregunta, el estabilizador del objetivo funciona a la vez que el de la cámara. Por lo que respecta al modo de agarre y del objetivo coincidimos en el mismo método, relajación. Yo personalmente uso el enfoque en el punto flexible en el cuadro S, el más pequeño y lo dirijo al ojo en todo momento. Para vuelos estoy probando, aunque ahora estamos parados, el punto expandido de seguimiento y me da buenos resultados. La ráfaga la de cinco disparos me es suficiente. Lo dicho buen vídeo y buen trabajo, un saludo desde España.
I don't think there's really an answer to that question. It depends on your gear, your environment, and what you deem acceptable noise wise. Everyone has different preferences. For my a7RIV I try my best to keep it under ISO6400, and even ISO3200. But I've gone as high as ISO12800 before sunrise with relatively usable images. If I can't lower my shutter speed anymore, I'll always crank up my ISO. Better to get a noisy image than no image at all.
I've used the Manfrotto Dual 290 and the Sirui ET-2004. They're okay, but aren't the most stable. I'm looking to upgrade soon to a sturdier tripod. Haven't decided which model yet though.
Thanks! I don't really find limits with how low I can go, but I do find that using lower MP cameras like my a7iii produces more keepers at those lower shutter speeds. Although, I don't think I would solely attribute that to the difference in MP, but it does play a large part in it. That's one of the reasons I like to take bursts that are a little bit longer on the a7RIV at low SS, it just increases my odds of getting those critically sharp images.
Which techniques do you like to use for slow shutter speeds? Let me know down below!
One thing that seems to help is I do the half-press of the shutter down as well, but for some reason if I use the second joint of my index finger to press rather than the fingertip I get more consistently sharp shots. It feels more stable for me, like pushing down with the tip of the finger pushes the whole camera down a little bit.
@Steven Klingler Thank you so much! And I have no idea. A large part is based on people staying home and slowing the spread. When it does eventually slow down, then it's the issue of deciding whether it's the right time to reopen stores/restaurants/travel/etc. It would be detrimental to reopen everything, to then have to shut everything back down. A lot of uncertainty right now!
@@alchemist_x79 Yup, that makes a lot of sense! Using the second joint is less pressure than using your index, which can definitely be a noticeable difference at low shutter speeds!
Stay safe, as well! I hope you're able to move around your trip if flights aren't happening by that time!
Great tips Stef, I tried releasing the AF ON button when the focus locks where I wanted, but some times I see AF confirmation blinker(in the viewfinder) goes off,, especially with songbirds. I think that's because they move pretty fast and hence I continue pressing the AF ON button throughout.
That part when you broke away to shoot the blue bird was one of the best parts of the film. You're enjoyable to watch. So many others are like my 8th grade math teacher. I only have 4 subscriptions. Now I have 5.
Haha so glad you're enjoying the videos! Thank you!!
Loved the bluebird interruption :D Thanks for sharing all these lovely videos!
Haha glad you enjoy :)
I bought a 200-600 partly because of your videos! Thanks for a helpful video like this. Most 200-600 videos are just people comparing it to a 100-400. Appreciate the specific information provided here. Helps a beginner like myself. Cheers!
Very happy to help! Thanks 🙂
Great tips. One thing I found that helps me is to remove the lens hood. Unless it's absolutely needed to reduce sun hitting the lens front, I remove because it catches a lot of wind easily.
Thank you! And that's very true, great suggestion!
Yes that's a good tip. I have noticed more wobbles with the lens hood attached, especially when shooting video and a gust of wind blows sideways.
I really love your videos! So extremely helpful! I’m in bird photography since quite a while but I’ve had a lot of blurry ones that were not sharp. Quite frustrating but your videos are a real real help! Many many thanks!
So glad I could help! 😃
Always love to watch your videos. Very knowledgeable about the birds and the camera gear and the photography. I'll try setting 2 on the lens next time i'm out! (Oh if you read this, which video did you mention ecozones in? or can you make another one talking about them?!)
Great video Stefano! Incredibly useful tips!
Don’t know why i missed this a few months ago but great video and tips. I have been photographing Barred Owls a lot over the past four months in a local woodland which is always fairly dark and that much more so at the corners of the day when the owls are typically active. Consequently, I frequently work with ridiculously slow shutter speeds. My main setup is Nikon D850, gripped, 600mm f4 on a tripod (sometimes with a 1.4 teleconverter too) which, when its on my shoulder, is 23lbs. Key thing I do which is a bit different to you (or in addition) is that I use a remote trigger (Vello Freewave and reasonably priced) when on the tripod and shoot in Live View mode with the “Pin” focus mode (am thinking similar to the Sony’s flexible spot medium or small?) and utilizing the electronic/silent shutter mode. I can then tap the screen to move the focus point to get it right on the eye, then hands off the camera and use the remote trigger. Key also is actually to completely turn off vibration reduction on the lens because at the slow shutter speeds where I work (typically 1/15th down to a full second) the vibration reduction mode actually adds motion blur (amplified by the 600mm). By also using continuous shooting mode I also attempt to get short bursts. The challenge with this technique is that if the bird so much as moves during the shot, it’s blurred and trash but when they hold still, the results are often magical: tack sharp images and with the resultant comparatively low ISOs, high MP count of the camera, noise free and often rendering wall-hangers. Would love to know if you’ve tried this too. Thanks again.
Thanks for being so generous with your hard-earned knowledge. Nice video👍
Glad you enjoyed! Thank you!
I never tried it but I heard a couple benefits to Mode 3 for slow shutter would be that it doesn’t hide how much you are actually shaking in the viewfinder allowing you to adjust yourself to be even more steady pre-stabilization, and because stabilization is only active during the time of exposure that means the floating stabilization element is centered at that critical time to allow for the most breathing room for compensation. Sounds nice in theory, have you tested that at all?
Also I have the same issue with Mode 1.
Yeah I tried it when I was down in Ecuador, and I felt like I was still getting better hit rates with Mode 2. Then again, I think it would depend on how much you're shaking to begin with. Somebody who shakes a lot while handheld will likely notice a bigger difference between the two, I assume. It would be fun to test Mode 3 while out on a boat or in high winds where a lot of movement is inevitable.
i had the same experience with mode 1, additionally it seems to me that with faster shutterspeed the OSS gets worse (1/1000+), however this might also be due to me using an APSC camera (a6500).
I've been turning off OSS somewhere around 1/2000th, and I've had some success. I'll need to do more thorough testing between having it on and off at fast shutter speeds to see if there's a big difference.
Thank you very much. It’s really useful technique.
This was very helpful. I have a trip planned for the end if the month. There are supposed to be over 300 varieties of birds where I'm going. Hoping my canon 75 300 4 will be able to do the job for me. 50 years of photography experience won't hurt either 😊😅
Great video! You should come to Botswana from Nov to March - we call it Birding Season. All the migratory species are there!
Thank you! It's my dream to go back to Africa. My first time around I wasn't into Bird Photography yet so I missed a ton of incredible photos opportunities. 🤦♂️
@@StefanoIaniro Let me know if you want to come and make some more videos when the world is right again. You can contact us me the website www.pangolinphoto.com. Cheers. Toby
This video was a game changer, thanks so much Stefano!
So happy to help! Thanks 🙂
Great video Stefano, and really appreciate your technique in using a slow shutter speed to get sharp images.
Glad you enjoyed! Thank you 🙂
Hey, had to go back and find this video because I remembered you talked about the 600mm steady shot modes. Ive been using mode 2 like you suggested but haven't had much luck (with shutter speeds under 1/320. The official purpose of mode 2 is for panning subjects. I just done some tests with all the modes with slow shutter speeds 1/50 sec and all modes have similar results, burst of 5 and there might be 2 soft images hand held just on a still object. All I can do is test it out on the field.
Another relevant video for me, thanks Stefano. I recently upgraded to the A7R4 and I am struggling with soft images. My ISOs are all fine (no more than 800), shutter speeds between 1/250-500 and I use small flex spot. But the eyes, are still a bit off with the 100-400 GM. I am shooting hand held because I'm usually walking in the woods behind my house. The images are good, but I'm just not getting (yet) tack sharp eyes. I'll keep trying and watch more of your videos :)
Thanks for the video. I have struggled with the 200-600 and A7RIV combo. I can handhold my 600/4GM on A7RIV at low SS and can also get consistent/reliable results with fast SS and BIF. I can use my 200-600 on my A9II and get consistent and reliable results at slow and fast SS. However combining the 200-600 and A7RIV has been a headache to say the least. One thing I did notice recently is that Mode 1 OSS was worse than Mode 3 or turning OSS off entirely(with fast SS). I hadn't tried Mode 2 much at all but will give that a try next outing. I'm glad that someone else has noticed a difference with Mode 1 vs other modes as I thought I might be imagining things. Based on many, many user reports on forums like Fred Miranda there is no doubt in my mind that the specific combo of A7RIV and 200-600 has some sort of issue going on compared to all other Sony lens/camera combos.
Thanks so much for the panning mode 2 tip.
Hi Stefano! Thank you for your tips. I´m new to wildlife and bird photography. Your videos are very helpful particular this one. I bought the 200-600 this week, and I´m looking forward to testing the lens tomorrow. I was uncertain which lens I should by, the 100-400 GM or the 200-600 G lens. Like I mentioned, now I´m very excited to practice. Best regards Thomas
Hope you've been enjoying the lens!
Stefano Ianiro Wildlife Yes so far I really do! The day before yesterday I photographed some deer and I had a good hit rate. Even with ISO 2000 at the 7r4 I’m quite happy with the results! Best regards from the Baltic Sea.
Love your videos Man !!!! Have you done a customization video on the Sony A1. Been a Nikon guy since the mid 70’s (yeah, I’m old) and the Sony A1 is a whole new deal. The D500 and D850 are sitting on the shelf…. Want to, but haven’t tried to set up back button focusing yet, or any other customizations. I’m soooo confused….. Thanks for your great work !!!!!
Thank you so much sir ! I have a Mft g9 with the cheaper lens and i have always had problems in low light especially in my garden. Today i used your technique and it worked perfectly. I went from 1000 iso and over to 500 . I used slightly higher at 100 ss but it was enough. Thanks again 👍👍👍👍
That's awesome to hear! So glad to help 🙂
Hi Stefano. I stumbled across one of your video's yesterday and have since subscribed. Great vids, thanks for sharing ☺. Quick question, you suggest releasing the focus button for static birds, but doesn't the image stabilisation only work whilst it's pressed? Or do you still get the benefits during the exposure?
nice video! I happen to have same exact setup (A7RIV and 200600)... Recently added the battery grip and feel it was the best investment! it really improves ergonomics and balance with the R4 /200-600 combo.. plus double battery life and natural vertical shooting. Worth every penny
Thank you! And that's great to hear. Have you been using the Sony vertical grip or a third party vertical grip?
Very helpful. Love from India
First, I want to say, I really enjoy your videos. Very informative and very genuine. In this video, you state that you get your best results in IS setting 2. My question is: Do you use setting 2 (or any IS at all) when shooting stills from a tripod? I only ask because the camera was mounted during that statement, when you shot the blue bird. Also: Which setting do you use when shooting BIF?
Hey, really glad you enjoy the videos! After doing the summer update on the a7R4, I've been having a lot more success with Setting 1 than I originally did. So now I use a combo of both. When shooting on a tripod, I tend to keep it on Setting 1 if I'm doing slower shutter speeds. And if I'm getting higher (above 1/1000th), I'll turn the Lens IS off. For BIF, I'm 99% of the time using Setting 2. Hope this helps! 🙂
@@StefanoIaniro Thank you very much. Thanks for your help. I love my 200-600. I lost the use of my 150-600C when I dropped it accidentally. Gave me an excuse to buy the 200-600.
Useful advice. Thanks!
Nice video. I like the message about not continuously holding the back button focus button. I’m definitely guilty of that.
For static birds I use the barrel button to switch to manual focus with magnification and peaking. I learned this technique from a Mark Smith video.
I’m excited to try lowering the shutter speed even further. Tony Northup has a video that talks about the reciprocal rule. (Taking short bursts) I’ve implemented that and seemed to get a handful of keepers.
Can you make a video on what settings you have when walking down a trail hoping for birds in flight? Do you use wide or zone? Responsiveness of 5? I seem to have problems acquiring focus for bif initially.
Great video!
Thank you! And I use a similar technique but have the MF switch set to a custom button on a camera. Super helpful for both photos and videos. I tend to avoid Wide AF area for pretty much everything. IMO it's too big of a focus area and increases the chances the AF will jump focus. I tend to stick to responsiveness of 5.
A good trick is something I learned when getting into birding with binoculars. The trick is to prefocus your binoculars/camera at a distance that you think you're most likely to encounter a bird at. That way, if a bird pops out, hopefully the autofocus doesn't have far to hunt before acquiring focus. I try doing this every time I finish photographing a bird that was either really close or really far and try to prefocus to a more "neutral" distance.
Thanks for the info. I am using a cheap kit lens 55-200 nikkor on a d71oo hand me down☹☹ no matter what still have to achieve a focused picture, well sharp sharp! I do notice that how hard i try i see that little focus square moving about as i hand hold and squeeze the shutter. Will try hard. One day perhaps. All the best.
Yeah it definitely requires some practice to see which technique works best for you. I wish you luck 🙂
Excellent Stefan’s. Thank you.
Thanks for this, I have been trying slow shutter speeds lately, and the results are not always the best, I will try some of your tips! And I will start posting some of my bird photography videos as well! 😁 (Southeast Asia region)
Glad it was helpful! 🙂
Mode 2 is the panning mode.
BTW if you use tripod then it affect the stabilisation so i think this is why you have more success with mode2.
I got supper sharp images with mode1 handhald with my A7III but I prefer 1/250 or above so i have no expreience with very slow ss.
I use mode2 for BIF.
Yeah it's different with the a7iii than it is with the A7RIV. I can use mode 1 with my a7iii, but with the A7RIV mode 1 is pretty inconsistent, tripod or not.
Better to have "birds on the brain" ...than being a "bird brain" ... just stumbled across your channel, very well done! You have a new subscriber.
Hahaha very well said! And thank you so much 🙂
I have missed so many opportunities to capture birds in flight using a tripod that for a while i quit using it altogether. I could never obtain tack sharp photos hand holding the camera so I improvised using any tree branch or perch i could find to help stabilise the camera . Using a 200 to 500 mm lens holding it up and keeping it steady enough to capture sharp images without using a tripod was one of the most challenging feats that I had ..that was until i came up with an idea that enabled me to have the best of two worlds . I simply mounted some memmory foam on top of my tripod head and taped it down. Now ican rest my camera or elbow on it and take advantage of the stabilisation the tripod offers and because i'm not fixed to it I can quickly lift it up off the base and capture birds in flight that I would have otherwise missed . I am strong enough to lift the tripod and camera off the ground and have done that to capture birds flying past and im sure im not the only one frustrated with tripods ..try using a base instead of mounting your camera onto your tripod head and see for yourself before commenting please !
I never thought about switching to mode 2. I'm using the 100-400 so I'll try it out on mode 2 next time I shoot.
I didn't seem to have this issue with the 100-400 though. There's also only two modes on that lens, compared to the 3 on the 200-600
i too found Mode 2 best... Also be sure to check out Mark Smiths A7RIV Setup guide. His configuration is fantastic and has really helped me get way more keepers! Good luck
Thanks, very helpful as always. Aren’t we supposed to turn stabilisation off if we use a tripod though?
Great video, thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed!
Nice video, I love to watch your video's, the quality is very nice! Big like from me!
Very happy to hear! Thank you 🙂
Never Back button focus.
I need the buttons AF-ON and AEL for other AF aerea's or even a totally different setup (recall custom hold 1 and 2)
when walking the fields and trying to photograph as much flying birds as possible versus when they go and sit down, really sit down at ease or ready to take off.
Absolutely
Why use two fingers to do one thing. Makes no sense too me when my main dial metering/auto focus works fine for me. I will use my rear button and thumb to instantly change one shot/ai servo,different focus patterns or camera settings.
Also with pro bodies you can register your preferred af point selection so you can switch between say a single point to a focus point cluster. Just by holding or tapping a rear button. That is one of the times I will use my thumb and a rear button. But only for changing my camera setup. Like register recall functions shooting and af off.
But I will not use rear buttons for back button focusing alone. It's seems much simpler to focus and shoot with the same front top button and really just makes complete sense to use this method for af tracking and shooting.
WHEN BACK BUTTON IS USEFUL
If you're focusing on a stationary subject and you have the eye in perfect focus you can stop pressing the back button and not worry that your Auto focus will grab something else while you're shooting a continues burst of images.
Although you can also get the same results using top main button to half press and have one of the back buttons set as AF-OFF and simply press that to stop focus then shoot your continues burst of images.
WHEN BACK BUTTON IS NOT USEFUL.
While pressing back button Auto Focus you can't select another focus point. Let's say you're shooting and decide to move the focus point on a bird that's just to right of center but you have set the focus at center af point. Now if you try to press the a.f. selection button its impossible.
But if you have the top main dial set as a.f. half press all you need do is hit the a.f. selection button and move your point to the desired new position.
Some of my preferred uses for my back buttons.
Are as follows... AF-On , back * or depth of field buttons for af-off, af point select single to multi point, depth of field preview, register recall or one shot/ai servo one touch switch.
Hi Stefano, thanks for this excellent video. Any tips and what settings do you use for birds in flight, especially for Sony focusung systems.
Hey John, glad you enjoyed the video! For BIF, it kinda depends the situation and the effect I'm going for in the image (ex. if I want motion blur in the wings). But to generalize it, probably my most used settings are: 1/1000th to 1/2000th, Zone AF, Lens Image Stabilization off, Handheld so I can quickly adjust on my height/movement on the fly, auto ISO.
@@StefanoIaniro Thanks a lot Stefano, i use something similar but forgot to turn stabilization off. Keep up the good work.
So cool how you get the shot of the blue bird just in between! love it!
I'm currently on the brink of investing in a proper tripod and am unsure about what kind of head I should go with. Apart from photography, I also do a lot of video. First I thought that a gimbal is the way to go, but for video they aren't the best. So a fluid video head might be more suitable... Moreover, I hike quite a bit with my gear so weight is also an important aspect. What do you think? i see you use a ball head in this video? Could I have your expertise please?
Thanks in advance and have a good week.
cheers
Tom
Haha thank you! So happy to see them back. And I've been in the market for a new tripod, as well. Problem is I'd like to try out a few heavier duty models before actually buying, but the selection is pretty limited at my local camera stores. My plan is to get a heavier duty carbon fiber tripod - like a gizto or really right stuff, with a strong ball head. IMO, I rather my tripod meet my video needs more than my photo needs, since I always use it for video and only sometimes use it for photos. For that reason, I rather have a ball head over a gimbal head. It's a nice compromise between a gimbal and an actual video head. I can make a video in the future when I finally make a tripod decision!
@@StefanoIaniro Haha, great to see that you're at the same decision as me. Carbon fibre tripod all the way, I had a look at LeoFoto, which is a more budget friendly copy of RRS. Yet, I'm so indecisive in terms of what head suits my needs best... thx for your reply and am looking forward to seeing what your decision will be.
Cheers
Tom
Yes it is a big decision. I'm hoping the tripod I buy is the one I'll use for the next 10 years haha. Good luck with your decision 🙂
Great tips Stefano
Thanks 🙂
Fantastic video Stefano. I'm also a wildlife photographer and I just created a UA-cam channel, with some birds that I recorded. And luckily I found your job, congratulations.
Thanks for the tips Stefano 👍
No problem! Thanks for watching 🙂
Thank you for your advice. What do you think about using the silent shooter (available for sony cameras)? Birds will stay a little longer, I think. And also I found that the white lenses don't help, maybe using camouflage or even darker auto-adherent paper over the lens.
Lol 😳 photographing the blue bird. Thanks for the tips, were those black birds calls in the background in the beginning?
Haha, I'm so happy the Bluebirds are back. I'm hoping to film their whole nesting season. And yeah, Red-winged Blackbirds in the beginning. Throughout the video there are several others calling: Black-capped Chickadee, Canada Goose, Blue Jay, Eastern Bluebird, American Robin, to name a few. I had a list of about 20 or so birds while filming this video lol.
A couple other things I've found help. If just going after perched birds at slower SS then using e-shutter can reduce any potential shutter vibrations. (Of course e-shutter should not be used for faster subjects due to the slow sensor readout times (unless you have an A9/A9II)) Also I find lowering the FPS helps. I find the A7RIV is best with just 1-3 shots at a time for slow SS. If I burst a short 0.5-1s burst at H+ (10FPS) then it usually is just the first and maybe one or two others that are critically sharp.
Those are great suggestions, as well! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Stefano, do you ever turn off stabilization? If so, what shutter speed do you usually turn it off at?
Very well explained 👌🏻👍🏻🙏👏👏
Thank you so much!
Great advice thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed 🙂
Great Tips Thanks!!!
Glad you enjoyed! 😀
I've been disappointed in my sharpness with the riv and 200-600. Have always had it in "1" for OSS. Will try 2 and hopefully you'll be a lifesaver.
Hopefully it helps! Oddly enough, after the firmware update from this summer I've noticed more dropped shots with this combo. I wonder if they'll release another firmware update or if they'll leave the R users in the dust
@@StefanoIaniro don’t think I ever did that update so maybe I should keep it put then lol. I’ve heard mix reviews with the RIV and 200-600 but contacting Sony support they refuse to say there is an issue and it’s user error. Which sucks because it’s my favorite lens and my favorite camera. Do you keep oss on with bif or off?
Great points and review!
Thank you!
great tips, I just notices this video is from 2 years back so wanted to know are all these restrictions also applicable now that AF systems have increased with A1 etc.
My thoughts exactly.. I have the A7IV with the Tamron 150-500.. Damn near 100% hit rate.. regardless of shutter speed…My settings are Manual mode, 1/1000 (starting point), aperture wide open and auto ISO. Focus area Tracking Spot Small with bird eye AF on. I can’t begin to explain how accurate and precise that bird eye af is… It’s almost like cheating.. it’s so sticky on the A7IV 😀 I typically lower my shutter speed based on the bird’s movements. If it’s calm and steady the lower I’ll go to get a cleaner image. Short bursts work just fine…but definitely no back button focusing. Just can’t comprehend how that even makes sense with a moving subject.
definitely very helpful, Thanks!
Happy to help 🙂
nice tips thank you
Glad you enjoyed!
Appreciate your tips!
Thanks! 😁
Very useful! Thank you!
Happy to hear!
Hi Stefano, when using your tripod, Do you turn OFF the OSS of the lens? Please your advice...Thank you in advance...
Always good information. I use a tripod almost all the time, should I have my stabilizer on or off?
I've recently been turning it off when I'm around 1/2000th and I've had some success. I haven't tested having it on/off at those lower shutter speeds to compare the difference, yet. I'll have to get into that soon!
Keep it off so it is not fighting against the tripod. This is what is recommended.
@@StefanoIaniro Hi Stefano, I'm curious to learn if you're having stabilizer on or off when using tripod shooting perched birds?
great video ,top tips
Thank you 🙂
No thanks have a awesome time and keep it safe
Great video!
Thank you 🙂
I have gotten many sharp shots with my 640mm non IS lens. (400mm on crop).
You take a lot of shots like 20-30. You get 2-3 sharp ones at that kinda speed.
Hey Stefano, following all your videos and I saw you moved from Sigma to Sony 600MM. I have the Sigma 150-600C along with Sony A7iii, I m also planning to upgrade to Sony 600mm. Can you let me what would inprove vs Sigma with Sony A7iii? I can do handheld slow shutter around 1/125 in Sigma, still not all sharp but 1/250 is better. How low can I get down with the Sony with handheld stabilization and also how does the sharpness compare to along with autofocus speed?
Hey! Happy to hear you're watching my videos. Honestly I noticed an improvement in pretty much everything when it came to the Sony vs the Sigma. Better AF, sharper, better build, more comfortable to hand hold, internal zoom. In my opinion, the only thing better on the Sigma is the price. I did like using the Sigma, but pound for pound the Sony has been better for me. I'm not sure how low you can go, because everyone uses a different technique, but I've shot photos at 1/15th on this setup, handheld. I usually don't shoot that low, but when I'm desperate, I'll usually go down to those very low shutter speeds.
Stefano Ianiro Wildlife Thanks Stefano for the response, I already bought the Sony, was to eager to get my hands on it. Image clarity and sharpness is top notch, stabilization as well. One issue I noticed - When locked on to birds, it’s losing them in the middle, I was trying to shoot the Pied Kingfisher diving and it will always lose lock on focus in the middle, I am using the Sony A7iii, settings I use is wide area lock on focus in AFC mode and HI+, Autofocus responsiveness - 1(locked on), emphasis AF. Is there anything I am missing?
From the settings you mentioned, the one that stands out to me is Wide AF. The downside to wide AF is it's such a large area that your AF has more of a chance to jump focus to something else in the frame. I would recommend trying Zone - it's a smaller AF area, but still covers a decent amount of the frame. It'll take a bit of practice to keep your subject in that smaller AF area, but I really think it's worth it. In most cases, we're not framing our subjects in the outer perimeter of the frame anyways, so those extra AF points while using Wide aren't as useful, IMO. Test it out and see if it helps, and let me know!
Do you still use flexible spot if the bird is moving? Or move to wide/zone. Sorry I'm new to bird photography. Cheers!
I'll use Zone if the bird is moving. To an extent, they are unpredictable when they move so Zone is a good choice. Flexible Spot is great when you have a bit of time to maneuver the AF point to a specific part of the bird. Like when they're perched, feeding, drinking, etc. I also like to use Flexible Spot when they're in thick foliage or they blend in with their surroundings. In those cases, using a larger AF area is usually a losing battle. Let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
@@StefanoIaniro That's perfect! That makes total sense. One thing, if I'm waiting for the bird to arrive in a certain spot like a bird hut, would you use zone with back button focus? But guess there's not much difference if you've pre focused on the hut with flexible spot. Thanks your reply, much appreciated:)
@@peterafilms Mhh I think it would depend the situation. Once you've used your camera/lens combo for a while you can mostly know which situations it may have trouble with auto focusing. How I like to think of it is the bigger the AF area I'm using, the more I trust the AF won't have any issues locking on to the bird. In situations when the bird is similar in color/tone to the background, or when they're backlight, or if there's a lot of branches/foliage, I'll usually defer to the smaller AF point.
@@StefanoIaniro Yeah as a beginner my knowledge of the gear is quite slow, so it will take time. Thanks for the help and quality content :-)
Sir are shooting compressed raw or un compressed raw pls tell...
And which settings are favorite pls tell...
Hey! I'm shooting in compressed RAW. And which settings were you interested in exactly?
@@StefanoIaniro Manual
@@VinodKumar-wu3pk When I'm using manual focus the 2 most important settings for me are focus peaking and focus magnification. The focus magnification will crop into the image while focusing, which makes it easier to get precise focus on the subject.
@@StefanoIaniro TQ sir give the information
That lens looks blown out. Is there a dial on it to turn down the highlights? :)
I'd put some camo on it, might scare the birds.
i think it's good to emphasize that the slow shutter speed is mainly possible if your subject is STATIONARY.
Mode 1 will enable image stabilization only when you hold the AF button and/or shutter, whereas mode 3 will enable stabilization all the time, regardless of pressing the AF and/or shutter. Mode 3 uses way more battery power.
I have a question for you. I use D500+ 500mm pf.
I handheld while birds are perched. I use single point autofocus. In such cases, I don't want to bump up my shutter speed so I keep it low somewhere in between 650 or 850. I have back button focus enabled and so when I focus on the subject, the focus locks+ vr engaged. Since because the subject is not moving, I release the focus button so it just keep it locked and I fire the shutter button. The Issue here is that the VR is dis engaged because It works only when I keep pressing the back button autofocus. I don't get great images. Can you please share me your thoughts.
Thanks. Its do able. Done up to1/25...sharp pictures. Its all light game ... and you have to mange either with ISO or shatter speed.
The blue bird photo was awesome. I see nothing rude about it. That's why I watch your channel. But but what shutter speed did you use?? lol
Hahaha, thank you. I didn't even know what my settings were at, I just scrambled to actually take a photo lol. My exif data tells me 1/640th, plenty of light available 😀
Hummingbirds are fairly easy to take with slower shutter speeds. I don't have VR turned on so I can steady the lens against a tree or stump. I also try to wedge myself against something. A tripod or monopod is difficult to use for birds, handheld is best, IMO.
Agreed! Handheld is still my favorite way. Although I do like taking video too, which is why I carry a tripod around sometimes.
Thank you
I think it would be a great video idea to just put together a compilation of every time you have gotten distracted by birds 😄
Hi! thanks for you video! I've been trying your tips, but definitely I can´t get sharp images, even over 1/800. I have the same gear than you, I don´t know what I am doing wrong, perhaps my pulse is a mess
Very VERY Good. Have you put a Lenscoat on yet I find very protective. Something new HECS® Hunting Apparel reduces your electro radiation field so critters are not aware you are around. Also a heavy duty binocular harness it is great for stabilization and an easy weight reducing carry if on a hike to the outer world or around the zoo!
Thanks so much! I'll need to look into that hunting apparel company. I have a lens coat, but I use a rain sleeve so I have a bit more weather protection!
No.1. 👌👍🙏
You deserve better iso performance camera! Did you try the a7iii? I know the crop sensors not great but...
Yeah I have the a7iii as my main video camera/low light photo camera. Love it. They're both full frame cameras though.
@@StefanoIaniro and the a7iv just announced that might exiting for you
@@jazinzlaty4823 I thought that was an April Fools joke lol
@@StefanoIaniro is it ? I don't know ,anyway stay strong and all the best!
I thought that's what I heard, but not sure what to believe on April Fools lol! Stay safe, as well!
I think I have more problems with the tripod than hand-held. Do you think is a bad idea using a gimbal head? The more I use it the more I find is probably only good for show. Either way, I am getting vibrations. I am now looking into getting a fluid head instead and hopefully it might help to damp the vibrations. To me, it has to be the head because the legs are already pretty heavy duty with 40mm diameter carbon fiber top legs.
Interesting! I guess it would depend which model of gimbal you're using. Gimbals can be great depending your uses. I do a lot of video and I don't like using a gimbal for video (just personal preference). I enjoy using ball heads, they're a nice balance for photos/videos.
Nice ..
Thank you 🙂
Question about BBF. Usually, birds are not sitting still, don't you hold down the BBF button most of the time and press the shutter button to take the photos?
Yes, for moving birds I'll mostly hold the AF-ON button. But for perched birds, it's not always the best option. That's why I usually just let go if neither of us are moving, unless I'm anticipating there to be some type of action/movement.
@@StefanoIaniro Thanks for the reply. Great video as always. I've tried BBF for a number of times for birding but then realized 80% of the time I had to hold down the BB and press the shutter button. Now I'm using the half-press shutter button for AF-C (AI-Servo) and BB for AF-S. I only use the shutter button most of the time, and occasionally I hold the BB to take it out of AF-C for stationary birds. I guess BBF may be better; however, it takes time to practice.
@@nightcoder5k Thank you! And I wouldn't say back button focus is better in general. It really depends your shooting style and how you have your custom function buttons setup. Like most things in photography, there never is one way of doing it. You gotta go with whatever works best for you 🙂
great tips thanks, do you use no camera strap? i have a peak design slide on the lens( Sigma 60-600mm +mc11+Sony A7III. greetings from the Netherlands...STAY SAFE>
Thank you! And when I go handheld, I always have a strap. But it doesn't really change my technique. I have a peak design strap, as well! Stay safe 🙂
@@StefanoIaniro Thanks You to, and stay healty
What tripod is that?
I had my A7R IV and 200-600mm lens mounted on a tripod that supposedly supports up to 17lbs via the tripod foot while I was photographing some birds in my backyard. I turned to move a chair out my way and my tripod ended up tipping over, which broke both the camera and lens, and I ended up paying $1,400 to get them repaired.
I really want a stable tripod to give my arms a break for bird photography...
Oh gosh, that sounds like a nightmare. Sorry to hear that! This was a Sirui ET-2004 which I don't recommend for this setup. I just mounted it on that tripod for demonstration purposes, but the ball head that comes with it is pretty weak. I generally mount mine to the Manfrotto Dual 290, which works, but again isn't the most stable option. I'm looking to upgrade tripods this year. I'm leaning towards Gitzo or Really Right Stuff.
nice video !!!
Thank you so much!
Love from India brother!!! 😉
Do you know any perfect Canon camera which does great bird photo's
SQUIRREL!!! Subbed.
😂😂 Thank you!
Hi dear like ur video but would like to ask that is this ur passion or profession
Thanks! And both. Do this part of the year, along with field biology.
I would strongly suggest you make sure you don't have a misaligned OSS motor on your lens. I have both the 100-400 and the 200-600 and on both mode 1 is clearly superior for perched birds and things not moving. A friend of mine had that same situation with his 70-200 and it turned out to be a problem with the lens. I hand hold down to 1/200 quite regularly at 600mm and get sharp images, that is unless my subject moves.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing, I'll have to look into it. I can still get sharp images in Mode 1 though, it's just not as consistent as Modes 2/3.
The way mode 1 works , really it means something must be wrong if its less consistent than mode 2. Certainly in my case mode 1 works better. Might be worth your while going to a camera store and doing some test shots with a different copy.
I think it may also be an issue with the compatibility of the 200-600 with the A7RIV. On my a7iii, Mode 1 seems to be more acceptable. But I'll definitely look into this when camera stores are open again.
@@StefanoIaniro Did you apply the latest firmware update to the camera? There was a focusing issue I believe with this lens on the A7RIV. I'm using it on an A7Riii and with my copy no issues but prior to buying this lens I tried a friend's copy and one time it just bazzed out and nothing was sharp, turned off the camera, remounted the lens and it seemed to work again but it was pretty crazy, something I think with the OSS motors was doing it.
I’m curious to know at what shutter speed do you turn IS on the lens off when handheld?
I don't have an exact shutter speed, it kinda depends the situation. But in general, around 1/640th to 1/800th.
Stefano Ianiro Wildlife thanks!
I have a7riv and 200-600mm..but if the iso go over 800..the poc become so noisy..any suggestion please
What is the preferred stabilization mode for 100-400 GM
I had great results with both 1 and 2, but then again I only rented it for a few weeks. Maybe somebody who has used it long term could give more insight!
What tripod do you use? Tnk's
For your info I use a Nikon D7500 + Sigma 150-600mm C lens mounted on a Manfrotto 055 tripod & Lensmaster RH-2 Gimbal head. It is quite a heavy set-up but gives great stability for wildlife images.
Muy útil la información de este vídeo Stefano, muy de agradecer la información. Hasta ahora venía trabajando con el punto tres del objetivo, probaré con el dos. Una pregunta, el estabilizador del objetivo funciona a la vez que el de la cámara. Por lo que respecta al modo de agarre y del objetivo coincidimos en el mismo método, relajación. Yo personalmente uso el enfoque en el punto flexible en el cuadro S, el más pequeño y lo dirijo al ojo en todo momento. Para vuelos estoy probando, aunque ahora estamos parados, el punto expandido de seguimiento y me da buenos resultados. La ráfaga la de cinco disparos me es suficiente. Lo dicho buen vídeo y buen trabajo, un saludo desde España.
Thank you, Abel. Happy to hear! Let me know how mode 2 works for you. Happy shooting and stay safe 🙂
What is the max iso you recommend for bird photography
I don't think there's really an answer to that question. It depends on your gear, your environment, and what you deem acceptable noise wise. Everyone has different preferences. For my a7RIV I try my best to keep it under ISO6400, and even ISO3200. But I've gone as high as ISO12800 before sunrise with relatively usable images. If I can't lower my shutter speed anymore, I'll always crank up my ISO. Better to get a noisy image than no image at all.
Which tripod you have used ??
I've used the Manfrotto Dual 290 and the Sirui ET-2004. They're okay, but aren't the most stable. I'm looking to upgrade soon to a sturdier tripod. Haven't decided which model yet though.
I use a Ronin mini tripod on the tripod collar and a buttstock like this Manfrotto-MA361 :)
Thank you for sharing! Do you find challenges/limits on how low you can drop your shutter speed because of the high MP density of the camera?
Thanks! I don't really find limits with how low I can go, but I do find that using lower MP cameras like my a7iii produces more keepers at those lower shutter speeds. Although, I don't think I would solely attribute that to the difference in MP, but it does play a large part in it. That's one of the reasons I like to take bursts that are a little bit longer on the a7RIV at low SS, it just increases my odds of getting those critically sharp images.
@@StefanoIaniro awesome thanks for the tip!
I hope you gave me 1 mid level camera to pursue my photography hobbit 😭😭😭