Great video thanx, just a quick question, in the event of an internet drop out, with this set up is it just a case of switching of that socket and operating through the time clock again, thanx again
The timer setup is remembered and stored inside the smart plug. So it keeps working without internet. You can also communicate locally with the plug without internet. You can always use the old timer as well.
This looks great, I'm hoping you may have the help I need! I'm not looking to send power to my heating, but I'm looking for a way to use a heating thermostat's signal wire to switch a couple of smart plugs around the house. A house with no actual central heating, and a few electric radiators plugged into the mains. Seems so simple, but I can't find a solution! When the thermostat calls for it, or when alexa is asked for it, the heating plugs switch on. Any ideas?
You can certainly turn smart plups on/off from Alexa. A lot support it. As for temperature control, you would need a smart thermostat, in other words something that reports temperature. You could then use IFTTT app/web site to link them together in a controlled way.
I don’t know that unit, but most boilers operate the same because they are designed to work with lots of different makes of timer/thermostat/controller. Just look at how your existing timer is wired up.
Thanks for reply, my programmer/timer has two output wires, one to cylinder thermostat and one to room thermostat, so presumably connecting new switched live to any one of these in terminal box will operate boiler. I have inserted link to wiring diagram for clarification .www.dropbox.com/s/iezo7xqvrtm249r/Honeywell%20S%20plan.pdf?dl=0
Yes. I had a look at the diagram, which is the usual setup. The programmer outputs are switched live outputs (red on diagram) so you can provide an additional switched live from your remote control unit to either of those programmer outputs, depending on whether you want hot water remote controlled or central heating. If you want both use two units. If you use a plug and socket arrangement be careful that you label up and maybe glue in the plug to stop somebody pulling out the plug and touching it because live mains can also come out of the existing programmer if it’s on. I think I mention this in the video.
Great video, thanks very much. So if I want to control my heating I would prefer to take the programmer out altogether because of the danger of having a live plug that you mentioned. On the wall plate that the programmer is attached to you have N L 1 2 3 4. Does this mean I just have to attach the output from the plug that is inserted in the wifi socket to terminal 3 to turn on the HW or terminal 4 to turn on the CH? Thanks in advance.
That should be correct but it depends on your exact wiring. Check the way your programmer is working by measuring the voltages on the pins when it is operating, using a multimeter on a.c. volts 600v range. You can see typical wiring diagrams here www.google.co.uk/search?q=heating+programmer+wiring+diagram&client=safari&hl=en-gb&sxsrf=ALeKk02O_gWgbG4oOG9yS5Cdb4UjYN5JYQ:1613466747722&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=yOUYIdo04pfpZM%252CULWxxoDQ-TqZmM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQ84_3S7m3VzUX0mfVb9hnyOBesjg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjehOuCiO7uAhU7XhUIHW1zBjwQ9QF6BAgNEAE&biw=222&bih=159#imgrc=yOUYIdo04pfpZM
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for that. I was worried that when the heating and hot water were off that terminals 1 and 2 would require a live voltage from the programmer as is shown in the typical wiring diagrams. I haven't been able to get wiring diagrams for the internal wiring in the boiler. I'll try your suggestion of checking the programmer in operation with the multimeter. (I'll bung you €5 to your paypal a/c. Thanks again)
Hi This wifi plug just cut off mains to boiler . Im not gas engineer but the gas valve has power to close?Are combi boilers need to be control by thermostat.
Do you mean the electric immersion heater? If so just make sure your smart plug is rated for at least 13 Amp, which most are, and that your heater doesn’t take more current than that, which most don’t.
The only flaw I can see in these setups is that I'd want the temperature sensor to be wireless, but at a push, I'd use a network cable to extend the sensor. The technical name for that connector on the sensor is a TRRS or a "rode sc1" cable (The latterbeing a bit pricey though)
If you mean at time 0:50, that is my home made electric curtains opening and closing the curtains. It’s now on a smart plug so runs on a schedule everyday.
Great video thanx, just a quick question, in the event of an internet drop out, with this set up is it just a case of switching of that socket and operating through the time clock again, thanx again
The timer setup is remembered and stored inside the smart plug. So it keeps working without internet. You can also communicate locally with the plug without internet. You can always use the old timer as well.
This looks great, I'm hoping you may have the help I need! I'm not looking to send power to my heating, but I'm looking for a way to use a heating thermostat's signal wire to switch a couple of smart plugs around the house. A house with no actual central heating, and a few electric radiators plugged into the mains. Seems so simple, but I can't find a solution! When the thermostat calls for it, or when alexa is asked for it, the heating plugs switch on. Any ideas?
You can certainly turn smart plups on/off from Alexa. A lot support it. As for temperature control, you would need a smart thermostat, in other words something that reports temperature. You could then use IFTTT app/web site to link them together in a controlled way.
Great video and cool idea. Does the neutral from the plug cable need to be connected to the neutral out of the timer?
Thanks. This is only switching on the live feed to the boiler, so no neutral is required.
Hi I got system boiler and presser tank I split heating system upstairs and downstairs still i can use this app
Great, cost effective, any suggestions how (if possible) to wire into my existing Honeywell S plan installation
I don’t know that unit, but most boilers operate the same because they are designed to work with lots of different makes of timer/thermostat/controller. Just look at how your existing timer is wired up.
Thanks for reply, my programmer/timer has two output wires, one to cylinder thermostat and one to room thermostat, so presumably connecting new switched live to any one of these in terminal box will operate boiler. I have inserted link to wiring diagram for clarification .www.dropbox.com/s/iezo7xqvrtm249r/Honeywell%20S%20plan.pdf?dl=0
Yes. I had a look at the diagram, which is the usual setup. The programmer outputs are switched live outputs (red on diagram) so you can provide an additional switched live from your remote control unit to either of those programmer outputs, depending on whether you want hot water remote controlled or central heating. If you want both use two units. If you use a plug and socket arrangement be careful that you label up and maybe glue in the plug to stop somebody pulling out the plug and touching it because live mains can also come out of the existing programmer if it’s on. I think I mention this in the video.
Thanks for confirmation
Hey would you have to be in the area? I’m hoping to be able to control my work heating on before I get in in the mornings.
Unlikely to be in your area. Have a go at setting it up yourself.
Great video, thanks very much. So if I want to control my heating I would prefer to take the programmer out altogether because of the danger of having a live plug that you mentioned. On the wall plate that the programmer is attached to you have N L 1 2 3 4. Does this mean I just have to attach the output from the plug that is inserted in the wifi socket to terminal 3 to turn on the HW or terminal 4 to turn on the CH? Thanks in advance.
That should be correct but it depends on your exact wiring. Check the way your programmer is working by measuring the voltages on the pins when it is operating, using a multimeter on a.c. volts 600v range. You can see typical wiring diagrams here www.google.co.uk/search?q=heating+programmer+wiring+diagram&client=safari&hl=en-gb&sxsrf=ALeKk02O_gWgbG4oOG9yS5Cdb4UjYN5JYQ:1613466747722&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=yOUYIdo04pfpZM%252CULWxxoDQ-TqZmM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQ84_3S7m3VzUX0mfVb9hnyOBesjg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjehOuCiO7uAhU7XhUIHW1zBjwQ9QF6BAgNEAE&biw=222&bih=159#imgrc=yOUYIdo04pfpZM
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for that. I was worried that when the heating and hot water were off that terminals 1 and 2 would require a live voltage from the programmer as is shown in the typical wiring diagrams. I haven't been able to get wiring diagrams for the internal wiring in the boiler. I'll try your suggestion of checking the programmer in operation with the multimeter. (I'll bung you €5 to your paypal a/c. Thanks again)
@@dermotdonnelly5495 Cheers. And thanks!
This is great! Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Great idea and low cost application!
Thanks.
Hi This wifi plug just cut off mains to boiler . Im not gas engineer but the gas valve has power to close?Are combi boilers need to be control by thermostat.
I assume the boiler power is still maintained- it is the switched power that is controlled with the smart socket ??@@tamasp1697
Hi is their away to get this for tank boiler
Do you mean the electric immersion heater? If so just make sure your smart plug is rated for at least 13 Amp, which most are, and that your heater doesn’t take more current than that, which most don’t.
@@comeinhandynow yes it's immersion water tank boiler hope I can get this to work. Thanks for you quick reply
HaHa, things have moved on a bit now.
You can now get a sonoff with a thermostat temperature input, and really control your heating to the Nth degree!
Good info, thanks. Things move on quickly in tech, the price being the point here.
The only flaw I can see in these setups is that I'd want the temperature sensor to be wireless, but at a push, I'd use a network cable to extend the sensor.
The technical name for that connector on the sensor is a TRRS or a "rode sc1" cable (The latterbeing a bit pricey though)
What is that noise
If you mean at time 0:50, that is my home made electric curtains opening and closing the curtains. It’s now on a smart plug so runs on a schedule everyday.
What is the app name
Monica Sukhraj it’s named in the video. Kasa.
Not interested in curtains or lighting just heating
Ok. Hope this helped then