Neil Gresham Interview
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Vlog #9 In depth interviews are not so common in the climbing media these days. I know I have many burning questions I'd love to ask the best and most knowledgeable climbers out there. So here is the first of what will hopefully be a series of interviews with really interesting climbers: Neil Gresham.
Neil has been a climbing hero of mine since I started climbing 25 years ago. I looked to him for wisdom about climbing not just because he excelled in every climbing discipline, but also because he was not naturally a high standard climber and so obviously had to leverage knowledge, science, self-experimentation and discipline to achieve his many climbing goals. Neil has shared much of his knowledge as a climbing coach over the years, writing articles, making films and running climbing masterclasses. But here is a key quote from this interview:
"I feel like I learned more about climbing in the past 5 years than the whole of the rest of the time"
So I wanted to ask him what that new learning was, especially since it led to him climbing his first 8c+ in 2016 (Neil is now 47 years old). In this fascinating discussion, I ask him about his use of low-carb diets for climbing performance, psychological training for his hardest reappoints, coaching young climbers and transitioning outdoors, and much more.
Neil offers personalised training programs for climbers via his site at:
www.neilgresha...
He is sponsored by La Sportiva, Petzl and Osprey.
His brilliant climbing technique videos can be found on his youtube channel:
/ @cruxfilmsclimbing
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Neil looks like he's in his 30's. Great conversation.
For real! When he said mid 40's I was shocked. Looks younger than me and I'm 30..
Man, I knew it was going to be good, but honestly it was the best climbing related 50mins I ve seen.
Any climber, especially above 30 y.o. will benefit greatly from this interview.
This all is so much different and better from often encountered unimportant details such as: 'should i rest 7 or 5seconds between repetitions?'
I couldn't agree more.
@@davidcross30 Dave should add some photos and make this an obligatory lecture for youngsters: 'Kids this is a doorframe, this is a hold made from drilled stone etc.'
I feel that Dave's approach (I love the books and vlogs) is perfect. no bullshit details that have no importance, no spliting training into micro/mezo/macrocycles, and other blablabla that is not achievable for normal people. I love it.
Now I'm very curious.
To late today, obviously. But in the next few days I'll finish this video.
Fully agree with you and the guys answered to you comment.
"9 of 10 climbers..." will be my next book on climbing, which I'm also very curious about.
I like about Dave that he is encouraging to develope and to trust one's gut feeling - awsome aproach!
Cheers
Dave is my Scottish spirit animal.
Dave these blogs are absolutely fantastic, keep it up mate!
Thanks Dave! Great work with the channel lately. Much appreciated
Watched this so many times and it never gets old, there’s always something new I seem to take from it.
2 absolute legends.
On a side note I am currently trying a low carb diet and it’s a game changer.
this type of vid is truly a lost art, thanks man. so tired of the sensationalist kinda of vids with no real information. experience is so underrated these days
Thanks and I agree.
This is amazing!! I've been really enjoying your recent vlogs dave, you have a really calm and sensible way of clearly explaining topics while keeping your videos entertaining, this is the best (or even the only) informational climbing channel out there!!!
Dave your crushing this channel and I really appreciate the thoughtful content !! Two of my favorites!
Great and inspiring to a 49 yo climber that got back at it just a year ago...cheers!
Just thought I'd say thank you very much for these videos! They're extremely helpful and inspiring and are consistently helping me to reevaluate my climbing. As a student who also has to work to pay the bills I have no days off in any given week to dedicate to training, but your videos have really helped me maximize my efforts and push through previous plateaus! So again thank you and please keep it up!!
I just have to echo everyone's comments, great interview and great channel, nice one.
Great interview Dave & Neil. You should consider publishing these long format interviews into a podcast, I would subscribe- makes perfect listening driving to & from work
Second that. I'm not watching the video but I'm rinsing my data allowance listening on the commute!
wow! thoroughly enjoyed this interview. Thank you!
thanks for such an insightful, relaxed, and candid interview. as a climber of similar age being a bit tentative about pushing harder, it's a relief to hear such positive stuff.
this is one of the best climbing interviews ever.... I'm surprised this has only got 20k views, it's superbly executed and produced.
Awesome Dave. So good the hear you guys talking about Keto/LCHF. Bring it on!
What a fantastic and possibly life changing video Dave! Loving your channel!
Best climbing chat I've heard in a while - thanks!
Neil mensions about how he was off around the world bolting new routes. Some of the most memorable routes I did while traveling such as those at White Mountain in Yangshuo had Neil's name under them in the guide book and they were all brilliant! Full respect and appreciation 👍:) (now I'll continue watching the vid!)
44 now, and fully intending to climb harder than I did at 28.. Thanks for the words of confidence!
Being a climber in his forties this is a refreshing interview that there's still hope to climb your best later in life.
Cheers
Such a great interview, thanks for posting! Very inspiring for someone who didn’t start climbing until their 30’s!
Fantastic, keep up the great work!
awesome dave, cheers, keep it up
Well done Dave this is great content
I was soloing an ice climb back 2015 and fell 100 feet, breaking both my legs and smashing my head pretty good ( I had bleeding on the brain, but no swelling or skull fracturing) . Since then I've only been ice climbing 3 or 4 times. I just really can't motivate to do it, when previously it was my whole life. I've held on to my gear, just in case, though.
Hey Dave I wasnt going to write to you but i decided i was going to have to because recently ive been getting injured alot i just started climbing progressing very fast but ive been getting finger injuries and having a tough time breathing because my rib cage hurts , i was watching this interview Neil mentions injury prevention and I remembered in another video you had made that you were going to cover injury prevention i think it was the one where you were talking about fear or fears and have been greatly anticipating that , i just want to ask are you still planning on making that video? I have just bought your book and also awaiting for that to come but still i would greatly appreciate such a video as right now im having a hard time even getting out of bed in the morning for work because of my injuries let alone going climbing.
Hi Dave, nice interview! Any chance interviews like this could be made into Podcasts? Making it easy for people to download and listen to on a commute.
I could listen to the two of you go on for 10 hours! Great interview!
Especially great for me at 34 having just started climbing at 29 and trying to figure out injury prevention and keep up with the 20 year old Adonis' in the gym! I would love to hear more talk on the subjects of injury prevention, diet and age. We all know how to pull hard, but we don't all know how to care hard for our bodies.
Never seen a video on youtube with 0 dislikes before!
I totally agree with his comments about nutrition. I made the same discovery about 6 months ago. I have spent years struggling with weight.
Not that I'm fat. I'm skinny, but I have a lot of subcutaneous fat. I never see any veins. And I'm a crazy endurance athlete as well as a returnee climber (got back to 7b recently). I'm a cyclist. I ride every day. I can do 100 miles on a Saturday.
I decided to reject the diet that we've been acculturated to use in the western world where we eat concentrated carbs with *every* meal. It's crazy. We never evolved to do that.
I now eat protein based meals, like am omelette in the morning. But a super healthy one. Basically a veggie stir fry with three eggs poured into it. Meat or fish in the evening with a whole load of veggies.
I do not obsessively shun carbs Veggies have carbs. Any root veg does. Carrots, radishes, beetroot.
Dave you have absolutely achieved your aim with this interview. This video is hugely inspirational to this 38 year old climber. It's really instructive to see certain hyped internet topics discussed with calm heads by two climbers with well established public records in climbing achievement, and clear, sensible public discourse. Huge thanks to you and Neil both.
Thanks Dave, been inspired by Neil since the sobell and brunel wall days.keep the fun coming
Great interview, looking forward to future vids. Hope the info from your new blog era becomes a book someday :D
Hey Dave, I didn't know you started a UA-cam channel 😃. I always remember you climbing the epic E11. Take care man!
Dear Dave, thanks again for the superb content. I am very curious about this low carb diet that you guys talk about. I always thought this kind of diet was only for losing weight and I never considered the recovery benefits it may give you. This peaks my interest. You guys made it very clear that diets are a very personal thing. I am a pretty skinny guy, bmi around 20.4, body fat around ~12%. So weight loss isnt really a concern for me, do you think I would still benefit from such a diet or something similar?
Hey Dave - I would love to see your diet written out and maybe a few meals that you make .. I would like to see how you do it to adapt my own diet plan. I’m mostly interested in nutrition for recovery... I think my climbing needs a lot of technical improvements before I worry as much about strength to weight.
Me too.
Yes I will be doing that in detail in future vlogs, but I can tell you quickly that few of my meals deviate far from meat and/or eggs plus veg that grows above the ground. Where it does deviate, its generally for extra energy to support big calorie expenditure as appropriate.
Dave MacLeod I’ve always just relied far to heavily on the easy carbtastic meals morning lunch and dinner. That and a heavy reliance on caffeine in tea or coffee.
@@davidcross30 I think caffeine is fine in the morning.
Really looking forward to a diet vlog, great work Dave!
anyone know where this gym is?
Where has all of this knowledge been hiding! I have literally looked for years, and feel like you have unlocked a treasure chest.
You hit your mark dead on here: really interesting discussion. An enjoyable interview on the technical nitty gritty of hard climbing.
Great interview Dave! Really great to see 2 well respected pro climbers being brave enought to have an honest conversation about nutrition instead of avoiding this difficult topic! The climbing world needs more people like yourself and Neil. Keep up the good work :)
Loved this. Great work Dave and Neil. Very keen to hear more strategies for 40+ yo climbers who are still working towards personal best projects.
An absolutely brilliant interview guys. Thanks Dave and Neil yet more inspiration for me to get better at climbing but more importantly I'm going to do something about my diet. I have far too many carbs by the sounds of it.
Brilliant: sharp, informative and easy to relate to. Kudos to both climbers.
I can confirm everything that Neil says about diet (parallel evolution for me). At 62, climbing 5.13(8a) for a quarter century without injury, I am closing in on my first 5.14/8b+. The diet works, no question.
Awesome to see my two favorite climbing coaches in discussion!
OK, you convinced me.
You have found the One True Faith of diet options, and Dave, Neil and I are all a bunch of old climbers (about130 years climbing experience between us) who are jumping on a "fad"....which happens to have started two million years ago. Forgive me for suggesting there might be another optimal option to reach our potential, especially as we get older and watch our insulin-resistant peers accumulate injuries and unwanted weight gain. My own 13 years as a high-carb vegetarian taught me nothing, I must have been doing something "wrong".
Diet is about what works best for you. Low Carb might work well, or it might work terribly. Same as high carb and medium carb. See what works for you and stick with it.
@@moosilauke18 High carb works for many younger athletes who are still insulin sensitive. By your 30s and definitely 40s that can change radically.
Gresh is a legend, Dave is too. Both seem really genuine and intelligent guys.
Top, top quality content. What a great conversation, so open and informative.
Another cracking video, great interview, and really happy you've been able to turn out so many of these at such good standard!!!
Dave the man with the iron will McLeod
Thanks Dave for the great interview! Are you planning on making a vlog about your perspective on nutrition? Would be super fascinating to hear more about that topic. Or do you already have some blog posts about it?
Yes I will do several in depth pieces on nutrition in due course.
@Belex He is helping people by opening their minds to a healthier, sustainable way of eating.
Great interview. Better start researching this "diet" game that was talked up as mine is apparently terrible!
That was awesome 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
Guys,for climbing,40 is young! Looking forward to seeing you two in your mid 50's talking about motivation and training.I am now 63.Til you get older you really have no idea.Thanks for the nutrition advice.
Good to hear you are still going strong Paul (you old git, from another old git). Big Sid
So much gold in that interview. Thank you guys a lot!
Dave. You are my dream come true Scottish climber who has achieved what I knew years ago would happen, a world class all round "super-climber," probably the best the the world has ever seen. Neil (you old git, from another old git- I am 69!)- respect and similar admiration to you. But, I worry (even though I am a psychologist). The last thing I want to do is introduce seeds of doubt into your minds‐ it affects performance. So I have held back from comments, until now, because of those worries, but of course all decisions are yours in the final analysis! Seeing potential life threatening/changing falls on the edge stuff have me on the edge of my seat (e.g. Lexicon , Longhope, Alpine & Ice stuff). Yes Dave, I saw your video of the fall when a hold broke!
I would like to send you some stuff that I use with my clients to help them reach what we call in the NHS "Informed Consent" decisions. The stuff is the form of handouts (in therapy & performance enhancement); stuff I use about Cognitive Behaviour Therapy (CBT), Automatic Negative Thoughts (ANTs) and some brief "3rd wave CBT" stuff about psychological flexibility and the role of "self" and "wise mind." I can send it by Whatsapp if you want to read it (it is brief). If you want it send me a brief message on zero7nine7seven4hundred6 seven8 and I will send it. I don't want any obsessive climbing disorder (OCD?) to be negatively consequential, nor do I want to put any doubt in your minds-also potentially consequential,but I have lost many friends and acquaintances over the last 50+ years of climbing involvement (including my own personal life threatening consequences).
So that is a lot of stuff off my chest at least!
Dr Nadim (Big Sid) Siddiqui
C Pschol HCPC Practioner Psychologist
not me eating a plate with mostly rice while watching this 😂
25:30 - Carbs in the evening - I can say from personal expierience i feel more awake during the day and more tired during the night if i fast + workout and ristrict my carbs until my final meal of the day, i have been struggling to eat more fat i eat very little naturally and still i see benefits. However i do eat a large amount of protein so could be that - I also drink my coffee later on as a result which is also very helpful. Futhermore Andrew Hauberman has recomended some interesting stuff when it comes to 'optimal' routine earlymorning sun exposure is also something i practise.
This guy is dope x
Thanks so much for this wonderful interview! Can anyone elaborate on the "rings" that Neil mentions at the end in regards to injury prevention? Any additional info? Cheers!
Nothing wrong with eating a shit ton of grains. All this gut inflamation pseudoscience is making me annoyed
Sure it's wrong. It's a low nutrients per calories ratio, therefore you will either become fat or miss very useful nutrients. The only thing it's good for is allowing you to survive in poor countries.
@@alexgalays910 What nutrients? If your diet gets you all the required nutrients, you do not miss anything by eating grains.
@@Mylada That's true. I was mentionning the diet most people have here where they eat tons of bread, pasta, cakes, etc and are already more than full before that happens.
@@alexgalays910 True. Refined grains, white flour etc is a different thing especially if its in cakes with added sugar. Whole grain pasta is just fine (i would say healthy), even if eaten in every big meal with vegetables and meat or plant based protein. For diabetics it might be different as your body cannot use the carbs efficiently.
@@Mylada Yeah I kind of do that too. Most people eat pasta and only pasta and it's white wheat flour :/ Probably don't need 250g serving of it either!
Climbing a grade indoors,nobody really notices.Fail on a climb outdoors at that grade,and you might worry that people notice that failure.Status outdoor route,you didn't meet the par.
Thus,the less confident stay indoors,getting stronger and stronger and paradoxically,less confident.
This has been the best video for me. At 47, while I dabbled in my 20s, I restarted climbing 8 months ago. We had a great climbing gym open then.
I have had numerous injuries/surgeries. I was at my highest weight and depressed.
After slowly rebuilding my body, I started keto 3 weeks ago with IF. 170lbs today versus 184lbs then and I feel better than I have in a long time. But I am just beginning the weight journey.
Over the 8 months I went from barely dragging my fat butt up the wall on v0 for 45 minutes to 3 weekly sessions of 2+ hours and finally moved to v4-5.
The message you both prove, is that if we focus on our health(mental/physical), commit even when we fail and never let age be a boundary but a motivation.
Sorry for the long post but I watch this video weekly to keep the motivation. Thank you and I'd personally love more videos like this.
Brilliant chat guys! Given me plenty to think about and hope at the age of 54. Totally agree with the Neil's comment about time pressures. Too many people are now driven by the "fast food" mentality - cheap, little effort and immediate without any medium or long term thought to the consequence (either by choice or circumstance). Off to cook books with thoughts about changes to diet lifestyle. Many thanks guys.
Would love to hear your updated opinion on nutrition/weight in general? Maybe it hasn't changed. and curious what you think of drinking alcohol?
Thanks Dave!
I love your channel, your way of approaching everything you share and how you expose it!!
Great work!!
Great interview! Nutrition made a big difference for me and intermittent fasting too - only on my climbing days i do not restrict myself timely.
Please keep on doing these interviews. Maybe even consider releasing the audio additional in a podcast form.
5th time watching this over a span of 1.5 years... awesome interviewer and interviewee...
Fantastic interview. I'm a soon to be 68 year old climber and still improving. Admittedly, I started very late.
More interviews please Dave, this was great!
From the best climbing blog/website on the Internet to the best climbing chanel.
Always find your content very helpful.
Great interview! @40:34 A good climbing coach really is invaluable, but getting outside to enjoy outdoor climbing is priceless!
Awesome interview, thank you very much.
Neil points out rightly that his approach to nutrition meets his needs specifically, and as an elite athlete with a full complement of macro and micronutrients in his diet, ie. Not starving himself like so many climbers, having carbs late in the day is entirely permissible because as he sleeps the liver will replenish the stores of glycogen which will be used the next day for training, hence the comments about being able to train more intensely for more days in a row.
Great video and great quality content- thanks for this post. (Btw if you watch it with subtitles it is even more entertaining how Google Ai translate certain words)
The amount of knowledge and inspiration shared in this interview is amazing!!! Thank you so much guys!!!
Keep up that great work!!!
Fucking hell I'm 33 and he definitely looks way younger than me
Really great interview and alot of honest insight into the more highend of climbing. I think eating disorders or at least the beginnings of this stuff is quite common belong climbers who want to progress fast or are hitting a plateau. Its really good to see more elderly climbers with alot of experience in this sport talk about these subjects!
Super informative and helpful! Dave if you were to do a long alpine day would you consume carbs during your day or just at the very end?
Brilliant interview.
Great interview/chat, thanks for doing this. You and Neil both are very inspiring.
really high quality interview with valuable information! Thanks a lot.
This is starting to be the best UA-cam climbing channel, awesome content, like in your books ;)
Absolutely brilliant interview . Could of done another hour of it. Top banana. 👌
Neil Gresham Masterclass videos are the best on youtube for the basis of technique.
Great interview. Its really interesting to hear about your nutrition plans and I think people will understand that not every plan is for every person.
The ending was very interesting. Would love to know more about proper warmups.
Man I enjoyed that interview so much! So motivating to listen to Neil
It took time to find out that you are in the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena
I’ve just liked the video at .04 second mark. Legends talking!
Absolutely fantastic interview, packed with information and insight, please do keep them coming Dave :D
It is great! I am a climbing coach and 45, so enjoyed all these really important topics for (older, more experienced) climbers. Hardly waiting the next interview! Thank you Dave and Neil!
This is what UA-cam was meant for. Excellent.
Top job! Finally a channel thats digs a bit deeper.
Great vid! Really useful and interesting! More of these would be awesome 😎
Great insights, I'm knocking on 45 so good to hear even the pros have to work at it. The open unrushed interview format worked really well. Thanks both.
Fantastic interview! Touched on some great topics. Thanks for putting this together Dave and Neil!
Thanks for the interview Dave. I feel really inspired by all the effort you put in taking Climbing further.
Many heroes in the rock climbing world, but Neil Gresham stands alone as a teacher I actually learned literal techniques from, his masterclass videos are the foundation of my climbing, and what I now share with new climbers. His contribution can't be overstated. Without this guy, I really wouldn't know how climb... seriously.
Dave, these videos you‘re doing are brilliant!! Thank you for the hard work, you‘re an inspiration!
at around 36:00 mins Gresham says something about a climber who saw climbing as a dance, whats his name?
It was Antoine le Menestrel. A very interesting characyer. his brother Marc was at least just as good.
kriszteblade their routes in buoux are something special.
I've been scouring your vlogs and blogs for info on the exact version of the ketogenic diet you employ and how it differs from the standard ketogenic diet. Do you have a place where you give more info on this? Thanks, Dave!!!
I don't sorry, because I am still learning about this myself. I will speak about my own experiences with it more in due course. In the meantime, I did discuss my own experiences a bit more here ua-cam.com/video/Ltw2QUiTUDY/v-deo.html
Great interview Dave. One of the best climbing related conversation/interviews I have watched in a while. great idea and brilliantly executed.