I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video! It was spot on! I replaced these 6 Capacitors after getting the "Please wait" message and it works great! I had little confidence in my soldering skills but I had nothing to lose! I watched the video a couple of times and it was so clear and showed everything! I ordered the Caps, some at a higher voltage rating because I had a hard time finding them all! Thanks again!
First reset according to Bose website instructions. For the CD clicking, mine was doing the same thing. It was ‘dried up’ or dusty silicone grease on the screw drive that moves the laser back/forth - added some fresh silicone grease to the screw, loaded a disc and moved from first track to last about 5-6 times, now it’s like new!
I'm having the same problem and after watching your video I am tempted to try it. I haven't soldered anything since I took electronics at George Westinghouse Vocational & Technical High School in Brooklyn, NY (Graduated in 1976). I'll start researching for an iron and capacitors now. Thanks
I thank you sir! ♡ mine has the same problem. Now I will see how good my soldiering is. You are very smart with electronics. I never knew you can warm up and test it working. Wow!! 👏
Thankyou!! This just helped me get my wave radio cd up and running again. Ive tried sonos and even bose home 500 as replacement unuts and none compare with this and a simple echo dot into the aux input. cheers!
Wow very interesting video. I purchased a Bose AWRCC! which at first would not play CDs at all. Only got the "DISC NOT READABLE" error. The radio plays fine. I took the unit apart and cleaned the roller and optical lens with IPA. Upon first observation it would now play a CD, but it would stutter or the sound would go in and out. Sort of sounds like your demonstration before heating up the caps. But I don't hear any clicking. But what is most bizarre is after playing for a couple of minutes (one track or so) the CD then plays perfectly. It continues to play CDs perfectly one after another. Almost like it has to "warm up". I'd be interested in your thoughts on this. Doesn't seem as extreme as your demo. Could this be a bad or cold solder joint somewhere on the board? Or is this the same problem with the caps? Thanks for the help!
Mine was doing the same thing. It was ‘dried up’ or dusty silicone grease on the screw drive that moves the laser back/forth - added some fresh silicone grease to the screw, loaded a disc and moved from first track to last about 5-6 times, now it’s like new!
Hello - Great video. I also identified 2 bad capacitors and decided to replace them all as you have done. I did notice that in your list of capacitors to buy you listed 4.7 micro farad at 6.3 volts but on the capacitor it says it is 47 micro farad at 6.3 volts. What capacitance did you actually install on the board?
Greetings friend, from Venezuela. I am a technician and I need to know the identification code of the IR sensor of that equipment that you repaired in the video. I repaired a similar one but the sensor doesn't work and I can't get it here in my country. Thank you.
The reality is that *every* capacitor on both boards are bad. Get an ESR meter and have at it and be prepared to be amazed at the carnage. Even if you change the caps to get the CD running, the sound isn't exactly right - either it sounds cheap or they even squeek and squawk. When I do these, I shotgun the entire board and use ceramic chip caps instead of electrolytics for a permanent repair. Once they are all replaced, these sound like new again.
Wish I has the same success with 2 Sounddocks I have. Freshened up the caps but they still don't turn on. I was told that the dsp chip is more than likely the culprit but I don't know what equipment it takes to reprogram the chip, which I was told needs to happen in order to get them working again. So they're just paper weights for now.
@@SOSfixElectronics There is a tech in the uk who re-programs the chip for $50 and warrantees it for 3 years. Many of the second gen original sounddocks are known to have chronic dsp failures because of how the chip was coded. The tech would only provide me limited information for obvious reasons but I do wish I could find the proper dev board for this chip. He wouldn't say other than it was from T.I and T.I. wouldn't help me out (military secret 😂) Have to see if maybe he can give me a discount on multiple boards. 🤔
@@SOSfixElectronics Thank you 🙂 He told me T.I. provided the original dsp product but the original chip is from Motorola so I don't know why he'd say that. A company called NXP now makes the chip but he told me it won't work because the chip was made by T.I. especially for Bose under a proprietary part number. When I emailed T.I. all I got was the runaround.
I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video! It was spot on! I replaced these 6 Capacitors after getting the "Please wait" message and it works great! I had little confidence in my soldering skills but I had nothing to lose! I watched the video a couple of times and it was so clear and showed everything! I ordered the Caps, some at a higher voltage rating because I had a hard time finding them all! Thanks again!
First reset according to Bose website instructions. For the CD clicking, mine was doing the same thing. It was ‘dried up’ or dusty silicone grease on the screw drive that moves the laser back/forth - added some fresh silicone grease to the screw, loaded a disc and moved from first track to last about 5-6 times, now it’s like new!
Can you explain where this screw is? I'd rather try this first before attempting to solder anything!
I'm having the same problem and after watching your video I am tempted to try it. I haven't soldered anything since I took electronics at George Westinghouse Vocational & Technical High School in Brooklyn, NY (Graduated in 1976). I'll start researching for an iron and capacitors now. Thanks
I always learn every time you post a video 😀😁
I thank you sir! ♡ mine has the same problem. Now I will see how good my soldiering is. You are very smart with electronics. I never knew you can warm up and test it working. Wow!! 👏
Thankyou!! This just helped me get my wave radio cd up and running again.
Ive tried sonos and even bose home 500 as replacement unuts and none compare with this and a simple echo dot into the aux input.
cheers!
Thank you for updating this!
Nice. Thanks for not adding music in the background!
Awesome video! Thank you. Now, I just need to find the supplies to fix mine. Great video.
Heating the capacitor did the trick, thanks
Hi,I just have same issues with my bose system right now,so how much time do I need to heating those capacitor?
@@juanlovo8162 Typically just a few seconds
good video. I can always learn something
Wow very interesting video. I purchased a Bose AWRCC! which at first would not play CDs at all. Only got the "DISC NOT READABLE" error. The radio plays fine. I took the unit apart and cleaned the roller and optical lens with IPA. Upon first observation it would now play a CD, but it would stutter or the sound would go in and out. Sort of sounds like your demonstration before heating up the caps. But I don't hear any clicking. But what is most bizarre is after playing for a couple of minutes (one track or so) the CD then plays perfectly. It continues to play CDs perfectly one after another. Almost like it has to "warm up". I'd be interested in your thoughts on this. Doesn't seem as extreme as your demo. Could this be a bad or cold solder joint somewhere on the board? Or is this the same problem with the caps? Thanks for the help!
Mine was doing the same thing. It was ‘dried up’ or dusty silicone grease on the screw drive that moves the laser back/forth - added some fresh silicone grease to the screw, loaded a disc and moved from first track to last about 5-6 times, now it’s like new!
Order 47uF 6.3V. .. NOT 4.7uf , if I am not wrong. please check.
Hello - Great video. I also identified 2 bad capacitors and decided to replace them all as you have done. I did notice that in your list of capacitors to buy you listed 4.7 micro farad at 6.3 volts but on the capacitor it says it is 47 micro farad at 6.3 volts. What capacitance did you actually install on the board?
here
ua-cam.com/video/8wTyeSP_61k/v-deo.html
Greetings friend, from Venezuela. I am a technician and I need to know the identification code of the IR sensor of that equipment that you repaired in the video. I repaired a similar one but the sensor doesn't work and I can't get it here in my country. Thank you.
The reality is that *every* capacitor on both boards are bad. Get an ESR meter and have at it and be prepared to be amazed at the carnage. Even if you change the caps to get the CD running, the sound isn't exactly right - either it sounds cheap or they even squeek and squawk. When I do these, I shotgun the entire board and use ceramic chip caps instead of electrolytics for a permanent repair. Once they are all replaced, these sound like new again.
Wish I has the same success with 2 Sounddocks I have. Freshened up the caps but they still don't turn on. I was told that the dsp chip is more than likely the culprit but I don't know what equipment it takes to reprogram the chip, which I was told needs to happen in order to get them working again. So they're just paper weights for now.
i fell lucky with these units so far. yes is not worth to replace the board $150 for the part
@@SOSfixElectronics There is a tech in the uk who re-programs the chip for $50 and warrantees it for 3 years. Many of the second gen original sounddocks are known to have chronic dsp failures because of how the chip was coded. The tech would only provide me limited information for obvious reasons but I do wish I could find the proper dev board for this chip. He wouldn't say other than it was from T.I and T.I. wouldn't help me out (military secret 😂) Have to see if maybe he can give me a discount on multiple boards. 🤔
@@electronicrepairservice2020 i ll make some search about this eeprom
@@SOSfixElectronics Thank you 🙂 He told me T.I. provided the original dsp product but the original chip is from Motorola so I don't know why he'd say that. A company called NXP now makes the chip but he told me it won't work because the chip was made by T.I. especially for Bose under a proprietary part number. When I emailed T.I. all I got was the runaround.
@@electronicrepairservice2020 check this service manual elektrotanya.com/bose_wave_radio_series_iii.pdf/download.html#dl
Gracias, me ha sido util😏
Can u link where I can get these things from
capacitors you can get them from amazon ebay and other sites
@@SOSfixElectronics thank you!!
I just uncovered my board and there was significant damage to the entire board. Just put it on facebook for parts $25
How in the world am I gonna do this
😁
What about all the other capacitors in the system? They all aged the same. They're all bad.
My Bose will not turn on