Purchased this to replace a guide pulley ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
@@vettelovette if you adjust the valves and you are still having this problem the compression release may of broke then you need a new cam it's the only way to get a new release. Cam cost about 90 dollars but then you will need sump gasket and a crank seal also.
Kyle Bittle they needed to use the Choke because I have this exact engine in my racing mower and I killed my battery with not using choke when I got a gas pedal for it and disconnected choke and well... killed the battery
Kyle Bittle I don’t care about your age. What’s that got to do with it? I think you’re absolutely right. First thing I’d do is lash the valves. Starter, battery, etc. would be last on my list. Oh, and btw, I’m 57. Lol
It's not your starter it's your valves older briggs engine valves will come out of adjustment over time. They have a compression release on the valves and if they are out of adjustment the compression release won't work.
Congratulations, you just discovered what I did in 1974! I also removed the reverse chain and added needle bearings to the non synchronized 3 spd. I added shims to the driven side of the gearbox to allow shifts while moving. I got a speeding ticket for 46 mph in a school parking lot. Several engine mods including removing the governor. Milled the head, advanced the timing, larger carb, straight tubing exhaust, and a snowmobile hand throttle on the steering wheel. Steering was sloppy so I used aircraft type of tie rod ends. Well as you guys will soon find out the lack of suspension will haunt you for years. Lol have fun!
@@NubsWithGuns if you read carefully Tom says " I also removed..." so he is sharing what he did in addition to what they already had done. Besides, the changes that Tom did are done inside the transaxle/transmission itself
CarsandCameras you guys need to know you need to upgrade the steering and brakes I've been working on racing mowers for 5 years, at 40 miles an hour you will die with stock steering and brakes
Thanks to this video, I was able o get mine diagnosed and started. But I got lucky and didn't have to go find another starter. I cleaned mine and put it back together. BAM! Turned over just fine. Thanks for the videos guys!
I'm just trying to help out check the clearances on the valves just to make sure from the sound of it on the vid it sounds like the valves are out of adjustment.. .005 is where they're supposed to be set..
Guys.....Stop throwing money at it and adjust the valve lash! That's all that's wrong with it. There is a decompression bump and as these engines age, they need maintenance which includes adjusting the valves. .005 feeler with piston at TDC. No more starting issues. 5 minutes to adjust. Seriously....Just do it!! Cheers! Zip~
Isaac it'll be fine ok ty for replying I'm a small engine mechanic and the ohv briggs motors recommend adjusting the valves once a year or every 200 hrs
IxCxUxCREEPIN last I checked it was 100 hrs but yea .004-.006 on the clearance, and you should have 90psi minimum compression at cranking. It needs em checked bad. (leakdown test tells all through)
also, if it keeps up, or you constantly have to adjust the valves, check your compression relief on the camshaft, those motors are known to tear them up if not properly maintained.
I recently worked on a similar engine and discovered that they have a compression release mechanism on the camshaft, and the I found that mine had blown apart. That could also be your problem.
Nothing wrong with those starters, just set the valve lash at 4 thousandths on intake and exhaust, it will be close enough for what you are doing. Those Briggs are notorious for the valve lash going out of wack from a lot of use. Another thing to check is the anti backfire solenoid on the carb sticking open allowing the carb to flood and it will vapor lock. Good luck!
Race mower trick. Throw glob of grease onto the transaxle drill into it so the grease wil catch most of the shavings. Install a grease zerk. And pump that trans axle full of grease with a grease gun. That transaxle will not last long otherwise. Also 40mph on a transaxle is possible but hard to do. Live axle with a peerless 700 trans and chain drive. 18hp twin or better. Could do 80 if the build was taken seriously. Almost wouldn't look like a lawn tractor at that point. More like a shifter kart with mower hood and fenders on it.
Lorduss1 no lol they r useing a gear drive tranz it still has lubricant but could use better. a hydro would have had a fan attacged underneath the pully between pully and tranz. anothwr way to tell is . a hydro will not go any faster than its curent speed . changing pully sise wouldnt increase speed
Kyle Norman I have seen a vid on youtube where a guy puts a smaller pully on a hydro mower and gets more speed, along with that the way he shifted the tranny made me think it was hydro, I know they are not ideal for mower racing
I agree with the idea of a twin and think it would sound and run great with an opposed twin, maybe a Kohler Magnum 18hp vertical or even a 20hp Magnum vertical, although the 20hp would most likely be out of budget range. Then, have side pipes, one per cylinder (obviously), running under the foot rests either side. At idle, it would sound amazing and have plenty of power. The side pipes could be made from, say, black iron pipe. They could even if for some reason desired, have standard 8hp mufflers threaded in end of the side pipes for "STEALTH" mode (as stealthy as a big opposed twin doing 40 can be, anyway). So yeah, the possibilities go on and on.
OHV overhead cam adjust on the valves. Take the cap off and get the high point with a feeler gauge. And make adjustments on the Rockers .003..... .005 depends on the size of your motor ! Awesome. Job though guys lots of fun. A good way to make money instead of building go-karts.!
Its clear you guys are definitely not Tractor guys, I can tell just by looking at it your valve's are most likely out of adjustment, thats why your starters are dragging so much, most likely your starters are fine but by doing what you're doing you are damaging them. The valves being out of adjustment on a Briggs & Stratton single-cylinder engine of that type is very common. I encourage you guys check out DonyBoy73 or any other small engine repair channel to get some tips to help you guys get that running correctly. Or check out some of the other channels who modified tractors on a regular basis to get some more information. Also that car that you were looking at on Craigslist had a Tecumseh engine in it the starters are not the same.
The valves on single cylinder B&S engines love to get out of alignment. We've had to deal with it at least 5 times on our mower (not a race mower, just a normal one). Luckily its really easy to fix.
you guys should check out my channel for race vids and also goto our Facebook group if you need some help or have any questions about your build. there's lots of guys here who have built multiple mowers. facebook.com/groups/898426736880095/?ref=bookmarks
Johndeere 100 put a centrifugal one on the trans input. Always wondered how that might work, it would be kinda cool actually. Just floor it , the centrifugal clutch locks , and just lift to shift to another gear. That's just alotta crap and weight flying around though.
Great Start! First thing, NOT STARTER problem! Adjusted the valves. Then take out the trans-axle and weld the differential so you got both tires. And a gas petal! I would swap the front to a 6 inch. I have a racer with 6 in front and 3 in back and goes 25 MPH!!
I'm running a 6" on the front and a 5" on the rear and I'm pushing 30 kph. I also used to have a Briggs single cylinder OHV like that except a 14.5hp and it had the same hard start thing nothing to do with the starter because I had to put a brand new one on. Now I'm running a vtwin vanguard which is great. From what I know the singles are just plagued with issues.
A lot of the time its just that those gravity fed gas tanks hydro lock the engine. They need a fully functional cut off fuel valve to stop the hot weather pressurizing the tank and flooding the crank case.
Hey guys! On the over head valve Briggs motors they are bad about the valves getting out of adjustment. Also what I have ran into is a lot of carbon building up between the valves and on top of the piston and causing it to slightly touch and increase compression. Pull the valve and top of the head off and clean up the head and piston. I've ran into this twice where they were really hard at cranking.
Watching you guys struggle with the starter is hilarious given that literally just the other day I was getting my old JD130 running again and the starter was doing the same thing. Rather than screwing around with jumper cables and trying other used starters, I just bought a new starter for $50. All good now.
The valves are out of adjustment. Re-lash them at 4 thousandths. The camshaft has a decompression lobe that slightly opens the exhaust valve for easier starts. When the valves are out of adjustment, the decompression lobe cannot open the valve causing the starter to bind during the compression stroke. Hope this helps. Can't wait to see it go over 40mph.
Valve adjustment! Get it to tdc and set them around 4 to 6 thou. of an inch. Its common on briggs to go out, especially when you were cranking the rpms in the last vid
A $20 battery would fix the issue. The 2 Gauge jumper cables don't allow enough amperage (approx. 100-130amps) to get it turning quick enough. Try replacing the battery and you'll be surprised. Also, you can weld the differential and replace the grease with oil and seal it up. For the slip Either a cogged v-belt or a fixed tensioner about 2 inches from the smallest pulley would help. The more belt around the pulley the least amount of slip. Just my 2 cents. Love watching you guys do the things I wish I could continue with but I'm constantly busy. Keep the videos coming!
I work for a small engine repair company and see this problem a lot, on those 17 1/2 through 20 hp Briggs intake engines they have a release valve on the camshaft and a lot of times it will break causing an abnormally high compression ratio on start up which most starters are not rated to crank over
CarsandCameras you guys should put a snowmobile engine on a go kart because you get a torque converter with the motor and to be honest predator engines are just over rated
I liked and subscribed right away when he talked Cool Hand Luke. If you don’t know now you do. Some birds can’t be cages and will die to prove it doesn’t belong in a cage.
my brother recently got a mower to follow along and build his racing mower. It needs a bit if wiring work but the nut that attaches the pulley stuck onto the pulley itself, and my pulley puller shredded the front pulley
I noticed you had it going there to the end of the video, but you could have saved yourself a lot of time and frustration by just using a drill to start it. Love your guys' videos though!
It's your valves, I got a mower in a while back (I flip them) that the lady had replaced the starter and it was kicking back. It was an identical engine. Come to find out the exhaust rocker arm was two mm out of adjustment. Tightened it up and it started right up!
I had a similar "starter issue" with the 20hp boxer brigs I mounted on my old gambles. I just cut a notch in a 12" pulley, drilled some holes in it, and bolted it to the top of the flywheel. That allowed me to rap a cord around it, and pull start the motor. I never bothered with the starter ever again after that.
I had the same engine, with the same starting problem,, I ended up figuring out it was hydro-locking, the carb would over flow and fill or semi fill the cylinder with fuel,, look into that, not a new starter, lovin the build!
I agree with the Valve Adjustment theory; the cylinder/block full of gas theory, caused by Briggs' carb needle going to crap, because it's not made to handle ANY alcohol; as the most definitive answers but......It just came from the outdoors, who knows for how long. Listen to it turn over the last two, or three times....SCREECH!! stop..Screech!! Tell yourself all the things you know rain destroys. The motors have magneto coil(s) made out of an iron core. So is the flywheel and magnets. Something I've studied for a few years. The Answer#1 to me is coil, and flywheel has enough rust growing between them to actually stop the motor from making it past compression stroke, because they need to adjust the intake/exhaust valve lash to .003/.005 in. respectively. Love watching you guys figure your figuring out..
Either the valve adjustment is a mile out or the centrifugal compression release on the cam is not working- there's nothing wrong with ANY of the three starters you have- ALSO, those rear ends don't have "Fluid", it's just gears and shafts laying in an open, non-sealed case with a bit of grease on them - very little or no bearings, and if you're lucky 2 or 4 bronze bushings..... Take it apart and you'll see! There's a guy with a whole you tube channel dedicated to making racing Lawn tractors on the cheap _ Dudes name is "Todd Christopher" aka Fearless Front - he's got videos showing how to change pulleys, re-pack transaxles with grease, ect.............
If your wondering what the movie is its called Major Payne. Its about a Marine major teaching a messed up disorganized ROTC unit get in shape. Really good movie I reccomend it if you haven't seen it!
Your float is sticking causing the fuel fill the combustion camber with gas..All a fuel shut off to the fuel line shut the fuel off when not running.. Pull the spark plug and crank it over you will see alot of gas pump out when you crank it over with the spark plug removed.. TRUST ME....
briggs OHV engines are know for needing valve adjustments when they are hard to start. If the valve lash is to much the exhaust doesn't open with the decompression lob on the cam when starting. All those starters you put on the motor where fine it just needed the lash on both valve set to 0.005".
Have you checked the valves on the engine? if the valve lash is too loose, it can cause the engine to be extremely hard to start as the exhaust valve wont be opening at the right moment.
Change the grease in the rear diff guys and also the problem you may be having is the remote starter solenoid, went through three on my off road mower until I got a good one. Best of luck in making it faster.
i work on mowers for a living and im also building a race mower. husqvarna lawn tractor with a 23 hp kawasaki. it tops out at 16 mph just from bypassing the governor. when i first put the engine on it it topped out at 7 mph. pully swap is next.
Hey guys! Great work with the mower, however I have had the same problem with mine starting. It is not the starter, it is the battery. Get a new battery, that is the large size LM battery. You should have no problems after that. That is how I solved the problems with mine. Before that, I had to jump start it (using the battery, not on the starter), with the engine of my truck running. Just a thought for you!
That diff whine, is beacuse it has straight cut gears;) And your problem might be saftey switches, not the starter. Mine had two. One under the seat, and one for the mower deck engange/disengage lever. Can't wait to see this build come along, you guys should weld the diff and get a gas pedal soon!👌 makes a world of difference!
I agree with what everyone's said, if it has OHV then those need adjusted for the starter issue. It's easy to do. If it's not OHV, then again rework the starter insides, replace the starter wire and replace the ground wire.
Had exactly this on mine replace the HT cables for the starter circuit with welding cable earth it works . Also valve adjustment can help if out a long way.
To continue. There is no "oil" in the gear box. It's called Bentonite, and as it ages, it cakes to the casing, away from critical areas where lubrication is needed. Simply drill a small hole in the top of the case and install a grease Zerk, then pump in a tube of lithium grease to help preserve the inner workings. Increasing the speed of the internals will cause a catastrophic failure without a little preventative maintenance to prolong the life of the Peerless trans-axle. Zip~
Try pressing the clutch pedal when starting it. You have multiplied the amount of load on the transmission that the starter is having to turn. Even though it is in neutral you are still turning all the gears accept the output shaft.
Putting a new battery in it will give the starter more torque. You loose more power than you think 5hrough the jumper cables. If the engine decompression on startup is not working this could also strain the starter. Usually the exhaust valve is cracked a bit until the engine fires
Purchased this to replace a guide pulley ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
Valve adjustment or compression release. Had the same problem with my briggs
So which one worked? I have the same problem
@@vettelovette if you adjust the valves and you are still having this problem the compression release may of broke then you need a new cam it's the only way to get a new release. Cam cost about 90 dollars but then you will need sump gasket and a crank seal also.
It needs:
-a valve adjustment
-gas petal
-bigger engine pulley
-Fearlessfront's clutch design
-custom exhast
-racing carb
-no governor
After that, you'll be golden!
Kyle Bittle I hope you know you just game a dumb teenager who has experience with mechanical shit a dumb idea... thanks
Edgy Furry and you are a pathetic boomer who doesn’t accept that teenagers know more than he ever will,
cody kamminga I’m 14 how the fuck can I be a boomer
Kyle Bittle they needed to use the Choke because I have this exact engine in my racing mower and I killed my battery with not using choke when I got a gas pedal for it and disconnected choke and well... killed the battery
Kyle Bittle I don’t care about your age. What’s that got to do with it? I think you’re absolutely right. First thing I’d do is lash the valves. Starter, battery, etc. would be last on my list. Oh, and btw, I’m 57. Lol
Now build one for offroading!
FearlessFront (Todd Christopher) I
FearlessFront (Todd Christopher) you are one of my favorite UA-camrs good luck with your life and family hope your doing fine!😃😃😃
>:D
FearlessFront (Todd Christopher) hi
Awesome video!
It's not your starter it's your valves older briggs engine valves will come out of adjustment over time. They have a compression release on the valves and if they are out of adjustment the compression release won't work.
Cogneeter awesome information!
.004 works great on valve just fixed that problem
@Noah Sprinkle sounds like the float is sunk or the needle is not sealing or both and the gas/oil mix is coming out of the vent tube
Yes you're right. Briggs also known for compression release breaking on cam and doing this too
Take a spark plug out and see if it wings over. Does sound like its fighting compression
Congratulations, you just discovered what I did in 1974! I also removed the reverse chain and added needle bearings to the non synchronized 3 spd. I added shims to the driven side of the gearbox to allow shifts while moving. I got a speeding ticket for 46 mph in a school parking lot. Several engine mods including removing the governor. Milled the head, advanced the timing, larger carb, straight tubing exhaust, and a snowmobile hand throttle on the steering wheel. Steering was sloppy so I used aircraft type of tie rod ends. Well as you guys will soon find out the lack of suspension will haunt you for years. Lol have fun!
@@NubsWithGuns if you read carefully Tom says " I also removed..." so he is sharing what he did in addition to what they already had done. Besides, the changes that Tom did are done inside the transaxle/transmission itself
How did you do that to the gearbox?
Guys went through a lot of work to make this episode. Thank you so much. I hope you know me and your other dedicated viewers really appreciate it.
Thanks for saying that. Glad you liked it!
Pedro nice Pedro from nepoline dinamite
CarsandCameras yeah keep it up guy's, you are an inspiration to half ass mechanic play mores like me.
It’s your battery
Right on, Cool Hand Luke, One of the greatest retro films ever. "Shaking the bush boss" lol
Definitely needs a pulley on the engine... It's pretty quick for a lawn mower, but it isn't anywhere near 40.
CarsandCameras change the engine to a 125cc engine
CarsandCameras you guys need to know you need to upgrade the steering and brakes I've been working on racing mowers for 5 years, at 40 miles an hour you will die with stock steering and brakes
CarsandCameras you guys should check out fearlessfront's channel he has a video on on how to make a pull start
CarsandCameras you can grind the rivets of the back pulley and weld a tsc hub and put it on the engine
Definitely. The tiny stock brake barely does anything as it is. What'd you usually do for the steering?
Thanks to this video, I was able o get mine diagnosed and started. But I got lucky and didn't have to go find another starter. I cleaned mine and put it back together. BAM! Turned over just fine. Thanks for the videos guys!
Its NOT the starter!!!! The valves need adjusted on the "TRACTOR" Engine!!!
we have a starter on it now that works. its what happens when you pull starters off of junk engines
Cowgirl 001 thats What i was gonna say
yes the valves need adjusted it's not the starter
the starter is working great now
I'm just trying to help out check the clearances on the valves just to make sure from the sound of it on the vid it sounds like the valves are out of adjustment.. .005 is where they're supposed to be set..
Guys.....Stop throwing money at it and adjust the valve lash! That's all that's wrong with it. There is a decompression bump and as these engines age, they need maintenance which includes adjusting the valves. .005 feeler with piston at TDC. No more starting issues. 5 minutes to adjust. Seriously....Just do it!! Cheers! Zip~
Was going to say the same thing
adjust the valves on the motor and set them both to 5 thousandths and it should start with the old starters
we have a starter on it now that works
Isaac it'll be fine ok ty for replying I'm a small engine mechanic and the ohv briggs motors recommend adjusting the valves once a year or every 200 hrs
ill check those for performance. lol
IxCxUxCREEPIN last I checked it was 100 hrs but yea .004-.006 on the clearance, and you should have 90psi minimum compression at cranking.
It needs em checked bad.
(leakdown test tells all through)
also, if it keeps up, or you constantly have to adjust the valves, check your compression relief on the camshaft, those motors are known to tear them up if not properly maintained.
That’s awesome! I’m so doing that to our tractor. My wife likes to mow the lawn, she’s gonna love doing it after this mod!
I recently worked on a similar engine and discovered that they have a compression release mechanism on the camshaft, and the I found that mine had blown apart. That could also be your problem.
Also, you may need to move to a double pulley system, or you'll end up burning up the belt by increasing the ratio so much...
Back in the good ole days. Man. I miss em.
Nothing wrong with those starters, just set the valve lash at 4 thousandths on intake and exhaust, it will be close enough for what you are doing. Those Briggs are notorious for the valve lash going out of wack from a lot of use. Another thing to check is the anti backfire solenoid on the carb sticking open allowing the carb to flood and it will vapor lock. Good luck!
Going back watching you’re old videos! Man you guys have came a long ways
Race mower trick. Throw glob of grease onto the transaxle drill into it so the grease wil catch most of the shavings. Install a grease zerk. And pump that trans axle full of grease with a grease gun. That transaxle will not last long otherwise. Also 40mph on a transaxle is possible but hard to do. Live axle with a peerless 700 trans and chain drive. 18hp twin or better. Could do 80 if the build was taken seriously. Almost wouldn't look like a lawn tractor at that point. More like a shifter kart with mower hood and fenders on it.
Thanks for your input. We figured out a way to cool the rear end that you'll have to check out in the next episode
Lorduss1 no lol they r useing a gear drive tranz it still has lubricant but could use better. a hydro would have had a fan attacged underneath the pully between pully and tranz. anothwr way to tell is . a hydro will not go any faster than its curent speed . changing pully sise wouldnt increase speed
Kyle Norman I have seen a vid on youtube where a guy puts a smaller pully on a hydro mower and gets more speed, along with that the way he shifted the tranny made me think it was hydro, I know they are not ideal for mower racing
Lorduss1 maybe there is a different kind out there but I have tryed it my self it just made it whine louder lol
I agree with the idea of a twin and think it would sound and run great with an opposed twin, maybe a Kohler Magnum 18hp vertical or even a 20hp Magnum vertical, although the 20hp would most likely be out of budget range. Then, have side pipes, one per cylinder (obviously), running under the foot rests either side. At idle, it would sound amazing and have plenty of power. The side pipes could be made from, say, black iron pipe. They could even if for some reason desired, have standard 8hp mufflers threaded in end of the side pipes for "STEALTH" mode (as stealthy as a big opposed twin doing 40 can be, anyway). So yeah, the possibilities go on and on.
Out of all your builds this one I have watched so many times because I love it. It will always be my favorite.
Adjust the exhaust vavle! Had the same motor and it is a common problem!
OHV overhead cam adjust on the valves. Take the cap off and get the high point with a feeler gauge. And make adjustments on the Rockers .003..... .005 depends on the size of your motor ! Awesome. Job though guys lots of fun. A good way to make money instead of building go-karts.!
Its clear you guys are definitely not Tractor guys, I can tell just by looking at it your valve's are most likely out of adjustment, thats why your starters are dragging so much, most likely your starters are fine but by doing what you're doing you are damaging them.
The valves being out of adjustment on a Briggs & Stratton single-cylinder engine of that type is very common.
I encourage you guys check out DonyBoy73 or any other small engine repair channel to get some tips to help you guys get that running correctly.
Or check out some of the other channels who modified tractors on a regular basis to get some more information.
Also that car that you were looking at on Craigslist had a Tecumseh engine in it the starters are not the same.
ARednecksLife or taryl fixes all. Very informative
ARednecksLife I agree I had the same problem!
ARednecksLife ok they dont know everything i bet u cant touch them in gokarts
ARednecksLife no it's the timing is what it is the timing will drag the engine back and make it run slower
The valves on single cylinder B&S engines love to get out of alignment. We've had to deal with it at least 5 times on our mower (not a race mower, just a normal one). Luckily its really easy to fix.
"if you ain't first your last" ain't that right Ricky Bobby!
Yo... now that you teased us with the idea of putting a 708cc engine on it, you have to now... and you know it.
XD would be funny
We have one with 600cc
also made a video bout it
@@murxaco.4639 cool!
I would pay to see this again! Very funny, and most of us know how frustrating, doing something like this can be. A+++++
there are enough comments on here about adjusting the valves guys, they will see them, calm down
we have a starter on it now that works
Isaac it'll be fine oh good so hopefully it'll be fine
three wheela should try adjusting the valves
you guys should check out my channel for race vids and also goto our Facebook group if you need some help or have any questions about your build. there's lots of guys here who have built multiple mowers.
facebook.com/groups/898426736880095/?ref=bookmarks
thanks
Compression release is broken off the camshaft. Common, Briggs and Stratton issue.
You should ditch the belt and pulleys and use sprockets and chains like on a go kart
Rocket Kustomz clutch?
Johndeere 100 put a centrifugal one on the trans input.
Always wondered how that might work, it would be kinda cool actually.
Just floor it , the centrifugal clutch locks , and just lift to shift to another gear.
That's just alotta crap and weight flying around though.
Great Start! First thing, NOT STARTER problem! Adjusted the valves. Then take out the trans-axle and weld the differential so you got both tires. And a gas petal! I would swap the front to a 6 inch. I have a racer with 6 in front and 3 in back and goes 25 MPH!!
holy crap you guys got 100,000 views in 1 day... Tractor supply should sponsor you guys
Nate Meek tractor supply co in my town is going out of business
I'm running a 6" on the front and a 5" on the rear and I'm pushing 30 kph. I also used to have a Briggs single cylinder OHV like that except a 14.5hp and it had the same hard start thing nothing to do with the starter because I had to put a brand new one on. Now I'm running a vtwin vanguard which is great. From what I know the singles are just plagued with issues.
A lot of the time its just that those gravity fed gas tanks hydro lock the engine. They need a fully functional cut off fuel valve to stop the hot weather pressurizing the tank and flooding the crank case.
Hey guys! On the over head valve Briggs motors they are bad about the valves getting out of adjustment. Also what I have ran into is a lot of carbon building up between the valves and on top of the piston and causing it to slightly touch and increase compression. Pull the valve and top of the head off and clean up the head and piston. I've ran into this twice where they were really hard at cranking.
Oh and those rear ends don't have oil. They just have grease in them. Ones I've pulled apart anyways. Pull it apart and weld up it up!
NOCAREBEAR , mine started starting easier, and ran better after running a can of Seafoam through it.
Watching you guys struggle with the starter is hilarious given that literally just the other day I was getting my old JD130 running again and the starter was doing the same thing. Rather than screwing around with jumper cables and trying other used starters, I just bought a new starter for $50. All good now.
Spray some truck bed liner on the pulleys to help the belt from slipping.
It'll burn the belt. Best bet is to just put a double pulley clutch on it and use a strong spring.
I have heard that spray paint then sprinkle sand on it while its wet is good for traction, those alum pullys are slick
***** Have you seen it burn a belt??
The valves are out of adjustment. Re-lash them at 4 thousandths. The camshaft has a decompression lobe that slightly opens the exhaust valve for easier starts. When the valves are out of adjustment, the decompression lobe cannot open the valve causing the starter to bind during the compression stroke. Hope this helps. Can't wait to see it go over 40mph.
Valve adjustment! Get it to tdc and set them around 4 to 6 thou. of an inch. Its common on briggs to go out, especially when you were cranking the rpms in the last vid
if that doesnt help try hand choking the carb, usually its the cam getting bad, or the compression relief on the cam came apart
It's not the starter, it's the compression release. Adjust the valves, you'll be good to go.
we have a starter on it now that has no problems starting it
Awesome! Keep up the good work!
I would still a just the valves the push rods can actually slide out from under the rockers if their out of adjustment it happened to my mower
A $20 battery would fix the issue. The 2 Gauge jumper cables don't allow enough amperage (approx. 100-130amps) to get it turning quick enough. Try replacing the battery and you'll be surprised. Also, you can weld the differential and replace the grease with oil and seal it up. For the slip Either a cogged v-belt or a fixed tensioner about 2 inches from the smallest pulley would help. The more belt around the pulley the least amount of slip. Just my 2 cents.
Love watching you guys do the things I wish I could continue with but I'm constantly busy. Keep the videos coming!
johns laugh at 10:28 had me
Ikr?!
Ya Know Who, me to. That’s great!
Great build guys. That civic is looking good!
It starts at 10:00 😫 so satisfying
I work for a small engine repair company and see this problem a lot, on those 17 1/2 through 20 hp Briggs intake engines they have a release valve on the camshaft and a lot of times it will break causing an abnormally high compression ratio on start up which most starters are not rated to crank over
Love u guys make the best videos ever!!
Thanks
ENGINE SWAP THE MOWER
CarsandCameras you guys should put a snowmobile engine on a go kart because you get a torque converter with the motor and to be honest predator engines are just over rated
One of the best videos I've seen honestly.
hey guys I just want to say I love what you do it is my dream to do what you do
Looks like couple cool guys having fun
Shoulda just started it with the air impact
My bff and I bought an old murray with our allowance and did this when we were 13. It was pretty great. We felt like geniuses lol
You should put a predator on the electric mini dirt bike
My idea vindicated right here. I knew pulley swap would work and have use of the transmission. 👍👍
I made a Murray go 20mph it's not fast but its feels fast because your on a lawnmower
I liked and subscribed right away when he talked Cool Hand Luke. If you don’t know now you do. Some birds can’t be cages and will die to prove it doesn’t belong in a cage.
Needs a gas pedal, you can make one out of scratch or out of a brake lever. Or just buy one.
ThatDrummerBen brake lever ftw, they probably have one laying around
my brother recently got a mower to follow along and build his racing mower. It needs a bit if wiring work but the nut that attaches the pulley stuck onto the pulley itself, and my pulley puller shredded the front pulley
Why not just drill start it?
the starter works good now
I noticed you had it going there to the end of the video, but you could have saved yourself a lot of time and frustration by just using a drill to start it. Love your guys' videos though!
i know you watch project farm
Probably because it's rough as fuck 😂
@@SpartanElite43 you can't do that on riding mowers just push mowers
It's your valves, I got a mower in a while back (I flip them) that the lady had replaced the starter and it was kicking back. It was an identical engine. Come to find out the exhaust rocker arm was two mm out of adjustment. Tightened it up and it started right up!
I still use the "for testing purposes" line in my daily life lol.
Cool hand Luke! yup he got in trouble for cutting the heads off of parking meters! will always remember that sheriff.
So all u guys did to make it fast is just installed a smaller pulley?
Switching the pulleys makes it faster, yes
I had a similar "starter issue" with the 20hp boxer brigs I mounted on my old gambles. I just cut a notch in a 12" pulley, drilled some holes in it, and bolted it to the top of the flywheel. That allowed me to rap a cord around it, and pull start the motor. I never bothered with the starter ever again after that.
The fact that you havent seen "Cool Hand Luke" makes me hate you....please watch it so I may love you again.
Hell yeah. I got his Nothing poker hand tatted on my right calf bc sometimes nothing is a real cool hand.
/\ /\ He's right you know!
I had the same engine, with the same starting problem,, I ended up figuring out it was hydro-locking, the carb would over flow and fill or semi fill the cylinder with fuel,, look into that, not a new starter, lovin the build!
11:10 Lmao nice Fast & Furious reference xDDD love that scene.
I agree with the Valve Adjustment theory; the cylinder/block full of gas theory, caused by Briggs' carb needle going to crap, because it's not made to handle ANY alcohol; as the most definitive answers but......It just came from the outdoors, who knows for how long. Listen to it turn over the last two, or three times....SCREECH!! stop..Screech!! Tell yourself all the things you know rain destroys. The motors have magneto coil(s) made out of an iron core. So is the flywheel and magnets. Something I've studied for a few years. The Answer#1 to me is coil, and flywheel has enough rust growing between them to actually stop the motor from making it past compression stroke, because they need to adjust the intake/exhaust valve lash to .003/.005 in. respectively. Love watching you guys figure your figuring out..
Either the valve adjustment is a mile out or the centrifugal compression release on the cam is not working- there's nothing wrong with ANY of the three starters you have- ALSO, those rear ends don't have "Fluid", it's just gears and shafts laying in an open, non-sealed case with a bit of grease on them - very little or no bearings, and if you're lucky 2 or 4 bronze bushings.....
Take it apart and you'll see! There's a guy with a whole you tube channel dedicated to making racing Lawn tractors on the cheap _ Dudes name is "Todd Christopher" aka Fearless Front - he's got videos showing how to change pulleys, re-pack transaxles with grease, ect.............
thanks for the info. we have a starter on it now that has no problems cranking it and we put fluid in the diff
Eclidean the peerless transaxle there running are oil filled they dont have axel grease
If your wondering what the movie is its called Major Payne. Its about a Marine major teaching a messed up disorganized ROTC unit get in shape. Really good movie I reccomend it if you haven't seen it!
OMG just do the valves already. Didn’t have to look far in the comments 🤣
It's fun to come back to the oldies. THE HAIR.
Your float is sticking causing the fuel fill the combustion camber with gas..All a fuel shut off to the fuel line shut the fuel off when not running.. Pull the spark plug and crank it over you will see alot of gas pump out when you crank it over with the spark plug removed.. TRUST ME....
it had a hole in the fuel line
Ok For Shits And Giggles Pull the spark plug and crank it..
i just went thru this today with the same motor the thing was filled with gas
MAINE OUTDOORS agreed same thing happened to my 12.5
😉👍
briggs OHV engines are know for needing valve adjustments when they are hard to start. If the valve lash is to much the exhaust doesn't open with the decompression lob on the cam when starting. All those starters you put on the motor where fine it just needed the lash on both valve set to 0.005".
Seat safety switch
Adj. the valves and the compression release will work properly then put the original starter back in. Like butter😎
Valves are out of adjustment..
Gonna watch the race mower series for the first time very interested I’d love for you to build a mud mower
first. im cool now rigth??
Certified cool
That sounds awesome!
"The Rage" 😂
I know this project is done but it is the compression release on the cam
The song is civil war
Thanks for the help on figuring out how I want to make my mower faster
how are you doing today
Pretty good. Recovering from overeating at thanksgiving. You?
Have you checked the valves on the engine? if the valve lash is too loose, it can cause the engine to be extremely hard to start as the exhaust valve wont be opening at the right moment.
Change the grease in the rear diff guys and also the problem you may be having is the remote starter solenoid, went through three on my off road mower until I got a good one. Best of luck in making it faster.
i work on mowers for a living and im also building a race mower. husqvarna lawn tractor with a 23 hp kawasaki. it tops out at 16 mph just from bypassing the governor. when i first put the engine on it it topped out at 7 mph. pully swap is next.
726 cc
I heard Nashville, if you guys are from NC at all then this channel makes so much more sense lol
Hey guys! Great work with the mower, however I have had the same problem with mine starting. It is not the starter, it is the battery. Get a new battery, that is the large size LM battery. You should have no problems after that. That is how I solved the problems with mine. Before that, I had to jump start it (using the battery, not on the starter), with the engine of my truck running. Just a thought for you!
That diff whine, is beacuse it has straight cut gears;) And your problem might be saftey switches, not the starter. Mine had two. One under the seat, and one for the mower deck engange/disengage lever. Can't wait to see this build come along, you guys should weld the diff and get a gas pedal soon!👌 makes a world of difference!
I can't believe ike is a day older then 25 rock on buddy ✊
I agree with what everyone's said, if it has OHV then those need adjusted for the starter issue. It's easy to do. If it's not OHV, then again rework the starter insides, replace the starter wire and replace the ground wire.
Cool hand Luke. Awesome movie seen it once always wanted to watch it again but have never fount it
These videos are so inspiring keep it up CarsandCameraes.
Love it love it love it. Reminds me of my crazy neighbors
Had exactly this on mine replace the HT cables for the starter circuit with welding cable earth it works . Also valve adjustment can help if out a long way.
"Cool Hand Luke".....is an awesome movie........yeah buddy............
Bojangles! Hell yeah!!
Good job getting that pulley off on that transmission
Please bring this Mower Built back to life!
I just don't want Issac to wreck this time...
To continue. There is no "oil" in the gear box. It's called Bentonite, and as it ages, it cakes to the casing, away from critical areas where lubrication is needed. Simply drill a small hole in the top of the case and install a grease Zerk, then pump in a tube of lithium grease to help preserve the inner workings. Increasing the speed of the internals will cause a catastrophic failure without a little preventative maintenance to prolong the life of the Peerless trans-axle. Zip~
Try pressing the clutch pedal when starting it. You have multiplied the amount of load on the transmission that the starter is having to turn. Even though it is in neutral you are still turning all the gears accept the output shaft.
Putting a new battery in it will give the starter more torque. You loose more power than you think 5hrough the jumper cables. If the engine decompression on startup is not working this could also strain the starter. Usually the exhaust valve is cracked a bit until the engine fires