Being a U.S. Navy Vet, Seabee, I love it! I can appreciate the project! It would also make for sea stories between a couple of old Salts lol. If one knew the ship it came off from, one could engrave the ship's name on it. How cool would that be! Great job Kenny! Enjoyed! Take care!
That would be a great idea Michael. I wish I did know the ship it came from. I may have to do some research into its source. Thanks for tuning in and for the suggestion.
Fun project! That will make a very unique door stop 👍. I also wondered about the length of the projectile …… only thing I have had experience with are rifle and hand gun rounds. After your comments I looked on line and from what I found, it looks like you are dead on 👍🤠
I struggled for a while with the proportions of this one Randy and even google searches didn't really boost my confidence. It took a while before I got some solid pictures of the shells in order to like what I was making. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with the kind words.
Shame you couldn't chuck it up in the lathe to polish case. Use increasingingly finer paper, then as Scott suggests use steel wool as final finish. We used to do it all the time as apprentices making brass and copper ornaments for people. Looks great though 👌 👍.
I couldn't agree more Peter. A good buffing on the lathe would have been so much easier. It was a serious workout. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
We used to use steel wool for cleanup of dirty brass. Next to last cleaning was 0000 steel wool, and last cleaning was using Brasso. And we would have a mirror, no scratch, finish.
@@dwightl5863 its definitely looks good. I started to write then when he was trying to figure out how to polish it. The harass we cleaned was on black powder muskets. And that powder residue and grease would get on the wood and steel and brass. It was a pain cleaning it up every week.
I actually tried Brasso and it didn't touch the grime on this casing which I am surprised about. Have they changed their formula because I remember it working a lot better than what it did. Either way, I got it cleaned. Thanks for tuning in Scott and for chiming in with the cleaning method.
Another fantastic video, completely different to everything else :) It would be far easier with some polishing mops and polishing compound on a bench grinder (or even in a drill) ... either that or wet'n'dry using liberal amount of water, that would have cleaned it up fast. BTW, Autosol is actually quite abrasive, Brasso (as mentioned below) is far better!
I tried Brasso on this shell casing Barry and it wouldn't touch the grime. I polished with the Brasso for quite some time and it looked no different than when I first started. I actually wondered if they changed their formula at one point because it doesn't work as well as it used to. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Good to know Duncan. All I can say is Where were you on the day I polished this bad boy? LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestions.
I'm not an army guy Steve so I honestly couldn't tell you what it is for. I can only go by the markings and serial numbers on the bottom of the casing. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in to the conversation.
Hi Kenny, very good project, turned out great, thanks.
Glad that you liked it Philip. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Being a U.S. Navy Vet, Seabee, I love it! I can appreciate the project! It would also make for sea stories between a couple of old Salts lol. If one knew the ship it came off from, one could engrave the ship's name on it. How cool would that be! Great job Kenny! Enjoyed! Take care!
That would be a great idea Michael. I wish I did know the ship it came from. I may have to do some research into its source. Thanks for tuning in and for the suggestion.
That turned out awesome, I’m glad you got it done and on video so we could see
Glad that you liked it Randy. Thanks for tuning in.
Nice build. I plan on a lathe soon myself so I'm liking the lathe work...
Glad that you liked it Joel. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your lathe purchase.
Fun project! That will make a very unique door stop 👍. I also wondered about the length of the projectile …… only thing I have had experience with are rifle and hand gun rounds. After your comments I looked on line and from what I found, it looks like you are dead on 👍🤠
I struggled for a while with the proportions of this one Randy and even google searches didn't really boost my confidence. It took a while before I got some solid pictures of the shells in order to like what I was making. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with the kind words.
A great video as always.
Glad that you liked it Mark. Thanks for tuning in.
That’s really awesome thank you for sharing I like your videos it is always inspiring to see you work, greetings from Arizona
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words.
Kenny, very nice doorstop. I like the looks of the brass and walnut together. Should keep the door open regardless of the breeze.
It'll keep the door open in a hurricane Paul. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
Shame you couldn't chuck it up in the lathe to polish case. Use increasingingly finer paper, then as Scott suggests use steel wool as final finish.
We used to do it all the time as apprentices making brass and copper ornaments for people.
Looks great though 👌 👍.
I couldn't agree more Peter. A good buffing on the lathe would have been so much easier. It was a serious workout. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Use Brasso and a wool pad works great
That's a great suggestion Rocky. I tried it on this one and it didn't touch it. Just too badly tarnished I guess. Thanks for tuning in.
We used to use steel wool for cleanup of dirty brass. Next to last cleaning was 0000 steel wool, and last cleaning was using Brasso. And we would have a mirror, no scratch, finish.
I agree with your procedure Scott. Even so Kenny's looks darn good.
@@dwightl5863 its definitely looks good. I started to write then when he was trying to figure out how to polish it. The harass we cleaned was on black powder muskets. And that powder residue and grease would get on the wood and steel and brass. It was a pain cleaning it up every week.
I actually tried Brasso and it didn't touch the grime on this casing which I am surprised about. Have they changed their formula because I remember it working a lot better than what it did. Either way, I got it cleaned. Thanks for tuning in Scott and for chiming in with the cleaning method.
@@acutabove_woodworkings interesting. We only used it to remove the oxidized brass. Project looks great.
Another fantastic video, completely different to everything else :)
It would be far easier with some polishing mops and polishing compound on a bench grinder (or even in a drill) ... either that or wet'n'dry using liberal amount of water, that would have cleaned it up fast.
BTW, Autosol is actually quite abrasive, Brasso (as mentioned below) is far better!
I tried Brasso on this shell casing Barry and it wouldn't touch the grime. I polished with the Brasso for quite some time and it looked no different than when I first started. I actually wondered if they changed their formula at one point because it doesn't work as well as it used to. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Sorry, I wasn't clear enough ... polishing mops/compounds or wet'n'dry initially ... Brasso to finish off!
@@barry.w.christie Ah. Good to know. Thanks for the clarification.
A buffing wheel would clean the brass up in 5-10 minutes
I used to clean up antique brass beds, full brass, used to take a afternoon
Good to know Duncan. All I can say is Where were you on the day I polished this bad boy? LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestions.
If it gets knocked over and goes off it will take your neighbours car out LOL
And hopefully their dog. She's a bit of a pain. LOL. Thanks for tuning in Paul.
I thought it was a WWII 88mm, but that was for a U.S. Army cannon. 😅
I'm not an army guy Steve so I honestly couldn't tell you what it is for. I can only go by the markings and serial numbers on the bottom of the casing. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in to the conversation.