Mike, the payback timeline of 5 years or less is truly a very very significant selling point for going with cc foam. Thank you for that explanation. It is of utmost importance for us spray foam insulation businesses to educate the builders and end users. Most don't have a clue
My spray foam example always was the 7-Eleven coffee cup analogy. People will pour 200°F coffee into a thin Styrofoam cup and have no qualms about picking up a coffee cup and not getting burned that cup is maybe 2 mm thick so I tell them imagine what 2 inches of foam could do you literally will see the lightbulb turn on in their head.
I’ve got a 40x72 14H which is heated to 60F with a 2 ton mini split heat pump in South Dakota all winter. I’ve got around a R-35-40 on the walls and an average of maybe 50 on the roof. It’s better than a Yeti cooler.
Same here in Las Vegas. I had the roof and walls of the double garage foamed here in Vegas. Outside is 115+ in the summer and we have 75* in the space. Walls and ceiling are not even warm to the touch after 2 months of 100*+ full sun.
I had my 24x32 garage spray ed 2inch in 2x4 walls 4inch under roof deck ,in Colorado. It cost $40 a month to heat in Winter with a 30amp heater that cost less than a $100. $40 electric includes power used when I 'm working out there.
I love how quality insulation lets you spend so much less on HVAC, all the way down to where you are essentially heating your home with a blow dryer, with the cost so low that you can totally justify electric resistance heat.
Could have spent less getting dense pack fiberglass and gotten higher r value, which means you'd be spending less than 40 a month and half the price to get it installed. $4k vs 7k but most people don't think about it.
@@beatch42 I'd like to build a system I can safely humidify, so worried about condensation on the sheathing. I might put a few inches of spray then dense pact the rest. Hopefully with a zip R as well. Either the assembly has to be made naturally safe or you have to use one of those smart siga items on the interior.
We foamed our unvented attic on our new build at 7500' outside of Las Vegas. Had to go full depth of the truss rafters and covered the back of the rafters. Okay, it's overkill according to Mr. Jones. But that was the requirement. So we got R42 or something. But I have no complaints. Air seal: perfect. It's the southwest so no moisture buildup; climate zone 5.B = cold/dry per IBC. Outside was freezing or lower just recently [1st week of February] and we set the thermostat to 55 when we left three days ago. I came back to 57. It hadn't even hit the target temp for the furnace to kick on. Spray foam is the only way to go.
Owens Corning is selling spray foam now. Natural Polymers is their brand. They (OC) realize that current and upcoming energy efficiency standards can not be met by the DR Hortons, Lennar’s of the world without spray foam.
I do not know how I missed this video. Bottom line, when the desire to have an extremely insulated residence, you are living in a bubble. The real pros and cons are two factors. The first factor is the amount of money you want to spend on your new build or renovation between to the two categories of insulation and HVAC. With the second factor being how fast is the return investment and long term savings achieved from the first factor? As we learned over the last year, the published R-value of closed cell spray does not do it justice. The effective performance of CC foam has been tested with results of anywhere with a range from 2x to 3x higher. The BTU retention of the interior condition air whether it is heat or cooling will hold its value for a much greater period. Interesting to note, SIP & Nail Base manufactures are now putting that information as well in their technical bulletins with 2x the performance of published R-value. Whereas other forms of insulation would require vast amounts of insulation and a greater overall wall thickness. That also means installing your windows and doors in a proper position to avoid the interior condensation build up. At that point you are now in the high-end passive house category. With coverage from the basement to the roof. Now, you are slowly seeing increase R-values for the basement, or a 1st floor that comes close to the roof requirement. Hence, the bubble effect. As Mike clearly stated now and, in the past, when you make a house extremely tight, you must have the right balance with your HVAC equipment regardless of the type of insulation and thickness of. A house does not breath, rather the need to dry out from moisture. Organic specimen such as us humans, floral, and our beloved pets need to breath. Therefore, the balance in the HVAC equipment must be correctly specified for moisture removal and air quality to keep the interior correctly conditioned in the bubble.
Mike. I'm currently working on cleaning up the attic of my 75 year old house in Southeast US. Very hot and humid about 80% of the year here. As it stands, there is about 2 inches of old loose fiberglass, very dirty, under sporadically placed newer fiberglass. If I were to spread it uniformly, probably joist deep at best. I fully intend to remove every last spec of dust from the attic floor before I reinsulate, I'm also updating the roof deck ventilation system to a proper soffit-ridge system, with baffles and radiant barrier. Finally I'll be spot sealing obvious penetrations like wiring, top plates, and light fixtures. That's as far out as I've been able to plan, as there is so much conflicting information about insulation. I had been interested in the "flash and fill" system, but realize now that a few more inches of foam is worth a dozen more inches of loose fill. My question is this: In my hot and humid climate, with a properly ventilated attic, is spray foam on the attic floor right for me? Is open or closed cell preferred on the floor of a ventilated attic? Thank you Mike.
Yes the foam can work well on the attic floor. The issue is access to the corners and edges. Look for the video I made on spraying down vs up. It is in the non-vented playlist.
@@SprayJonesHave you ever tried to: 1.spray PUR on a sloped roof from the outside between wooden billets, 2.shave off the excess above the wood surface,3. cover it with vapor-permeable and water-repellent membrane,4.cover it with Rockwool insulation boards,5, nail counter laths and laths for some roof cover?
You might consider spraying the underside of the roof structure instead of the floor to make it an unvented space. That would solve several problems, among them air infiltration at the eaves and moisture buildup under the roof. The space would now be inside the envelope like the rest of the house. Of course, you should check with an engineer for this to see if the local codes and/or the house itself could support the added load on the roof.
Hmmmm... right at the end we can "batt it around a little bit" That is a truly awful/good pun. 👍 Thanks for a lot of information and help with planning my retrofit on 90+ year old farm cottage. And I will likely have to do a self install due to remote location where the work needs to be done with lots of prep and each part is a relatively small area (so, too much travel time per section). Your thoughts on some of the pre-pressurised two box kits out there?
@@SprayJones True dat. I bought a kit online for an HVAC shed on my roof [8x12x5]. Outdoor air temp was right; bottles were right; I shook them up and did a trial spray on a piece of rock. No mixing; no foam. I thought it was me and sprayed a couple of stud bays. It was the stuff. I had to scrape it out, still tacky, a few days later and replaced it with rigid foam sheets. Total bummer and nobody to ask for help or complain to.
Dad has a 48x72x16H. R28 on the walls and r-50 on the roof. It easily heats with the smallest gas boiler they make. 44,000 btu. Less than $100 to hear a month in South Dakota.
It’s not even a question… of course closed cell spray foam is the best way to create an airtight, highly insulated building. My personal contention is not with spray foam, but rather I have a preference for simplicity. My personal choice is to heat my home entirely with a wood stove. I live in the mountains in Colorado and we don’t need air conditioners up here and the beetle kill trees are plentiful. Plus, blocking and splitting 6 cords of wood by hand every season is a great way to stay in shape. My thought is that I don’t want to use spray foam because it essentially necessitates the installation and use of an HRV or ERV. This adds additional moving parts to the systems that run my home and I prefer fewer moving parts than more moving parts when possible. It’s very difficult for a “steel box heater” to fail (I do run a HEPA filter with the stove these days, but that’s not a requirement by any means). All that to say: Spray foam is great, I just choose not to use it in my home because it requires additional systems to reduce mold growth, etc. At least that’s been my understanding, if I’m off base in my thinking, let me know where. Maybe you’ll convince me to use it in the future. :)
That's all very reasonable and fits under the label of "you do you". My personal plans need to allow for advancing age and, if I get unlucky, not letting normal operations get trashed while recovering from an injury. Getting older is better than the alternative so has to be considered. And there is a constant non-zero risk of injury when fetching and processing wood. It is my personal plan to make it possible to keep the cold (and heat - we cop it both ways) under management with better insulation and, like you say, a few moving parts. That way the house can still work even if/when my moving parts have problems. Of course if could ever make my old farmhouse airtight and an air circulation device needs fixing I can open a window when I need. That's a choice I could make. I would hate to be caught with winter approaching. poor insulation, and reduced ability to process wood.
As a certified insulator. My views are. Closed cell costs money. You get 3 inch in your wall and 5.5 in your roof deck, r-21 and r38. This comes with convective elimination Wich allows for 0 ventilation of interior humidity, you you have to pay money to run machines to make the system work elongating the period in Wich you earn your return on investment of the install. You could spend half that on dense pack fiberglass and get r-23, R-60. Wich is convective resistant and has more r value than the spray foam overall. In the end r value is king, and the higher r-value, no machine requiring, 80 to 100 years of effectivity, dense pack fiberglass will save you more much faster. And it also won't vapor lock your building. Of course if you have a basement foundation. Spray foam can be a good application, but I prefer foamboard as long as the wall is flat.
Could you address buying an older home with spray foam on the roof? What is actually a reasonable method and level of invasiveness to adequately inspect the framing and sheathing, both for the prospective buyer and to satisfy lenders who want it all ripped out?
The easiest non invasive test is to have the roof thermally scanned on the outside after a big rain. Water that is behind the shingles will show up as cold. Any roof inspection agency can do this and comment on the condition of the rest. SPF does not need to be ripped out just to satisfy someone's fears.
Another great video. I’ll be taking some pics and notes as to what I’m going to do, and hopefully you can take a look and give the Guru of Spray Foams wise thoughts…… even a simple 👍 or down would be so much appreciated ,!! Big fan and keep at it sir!,,,,👍👍😁😁✌️
Is there any issues with doing closed cell foam in hot humid climates like Dallas Texas where I live? I find every house I look at has open cell here in the Dallas area.
What if I want to totally encapsulate my cottage (that's my plan), walls, ceiling and underside of the floor in closed spray foam. My main source of heat will be in floor radiant. NO HVAC or forced air, just in floor radiant. Cottage in Quebec. 5" under the floor and 3" on the walls and ceiling. Any issue with the above about sealing the entire envelope WITHOUT any HVAC or forced air? Thanks
There can be. So what happens if you want to lower humidity when it is up to temp? Wet clothes, etc. you have no air make up other than opening a window.... which will work. Look for a long time cabins don't get complex HVAC and they are fine, wood stove and windows and spray foam and it'll work. Just understand what you are buying.
Would there be a problem putting spray foam over concrete floor in crawl space that already has walls and joists rims done. Trying to humidity under control under house and raise temp to stop water lines from freezing. Just barely enough room to crawl around under house
I'm not bashing spray foam and will probably use it in a future home. But I did watch a video on a "Build Show" channel where the pros and cons of each insulation product were discussed in great detail. No product was favored over another and no particular brand was being pushed, truly an objective comparison. The presenter was a big regional insulation company owner who installed his first batt in 1977. He uses all methods and knows how to install each correctly. Ironically, he was on a call back to fix a problem on a couple of problem areas with the spray foam when they decided to film the presentation. The problem areas occurred when a clog occurred in one of the chemicals and it did not cure properly and could easily be pulled from the wall. The poor curing was not detectedable for a few days and was only discovered by poking around and feeling the adhesion problem. So even a pro working in ideal conditions with quality product can have problems. They fixed it with a froth pack. He stood behind his job. I will hire a reputable experienced installer, but I will poke around on it up until it is walled over.
What you don't know is that no pro working with a spray gun every day has "a clog" that affects ratio so substantially that they have to remove material and didn't know it when it happened. That is rookieville 101. We are pros here and can sniff out BS in no time.
@@SprayJones You take everything too personally. Too defensive. Sorry, but Spray Jones is not going to do my job in NC. I will have to rely on customer reviews, BBB reports, and my own infotmed assessment of a potential installer. My information will come from a multitude of sources, not just one guy pushing one particular product. At the end of the day, an equipment malfunction could cause a problem that is impossible to see, even for an expert. So instead of acknowledging that, you choose to call the installer, who you don't even know, a hack. I am just a potential customer for spray foam. I have no stake in the insulation game. If I lived in your region, you'd be on the top of my list.
@@SprayJones For reference, the video I am talking about is on the Jake Bruton YT channel, titled "What is the best insulation? (Part 1, Part 2). The part where they take a look at the spray foam problem area is at the end of Part 2, but I recommend the whole thing, although it may be nothing new to you.
@@markstipulkoski1389 what jones is telling you is that the installer did know. As a spray foamer myself I can tell you the equipment does not malfunction without the sprayer knowing. If the gun were to clog it’s not going to spray correctly even if it’s slightly off ratio you will be able to feel it in the gun & see it by the way the foam grows. If it’s a chemical supply issue from the reactor it’s still going to let the sprayer known right at the gun. If you have a sprayer saying he didn’t realize or didn’t know he is in fact a rookie, I will say there are sometimes conditions as sprayers were asked to spray in which isn’t ideal and can cause problems for even the best sprayers the only way to prevent that is shut the job down, in that instance I always let builders know that I CAN install it but these are the list of possible problems. Most times they agree to wait & have it done properly
I want to use closed cell in my forever last stand Barndo in central Florida, my only reservation is the possibility of not being able find water leaks. Is this a real concern?
@@SprayJones The contention is because the water doesn't expose itself quickly, the leak can accumulate and do a lot of damage before being exposed monthths later. I'm probably willing to take this risk with huge benefits in a FL environment.
@@victorpistone1073 You need to explain this to me?? When do you want the water to stop? How easy is it to detect leaks with any product that stops water?
@@victorpistone1073you would be correct in the event of a leak it would hide the problem. As it is essentially a 4 or 5 inch thick piece of plastic. If it creates too much air tightness then you need an hrv system for fresh air
LOVE your videos, I'm sold on spray foam, especially because I am building in Montana right now. Just wondering, I am doing a few buildings on my place, (1 ready to insul now but I'll wait for warmer weather, and at least 3 more) any thoughts if I am really careful application, about buying an inexpensive rig and doing my own spraying? I am a retired contractor been in the building industry for 50 years +/- and I understand after watching this video channel a lot of the right things to do, and I would take my time, I have a local source for BASF Walltite. Any thoughts?
@@SprayJones Seriously but it looks so easy to do. You save thousands doing it yourself here in Montana. I get quoted $10k for a roof deck on 44x32 home.
Mike, the payback timeline of 5 years or less is truly a very very significant selling point for going with cc foam. Thank you for that explanation. It is of utmost importance for us spray foam insulation businesses to educate the builders and end users. Most don't have a clue
My spray foam example always was the 7-Eleven coffee cup analogy. People will pour 200°F coffee into a thin Styrofoam cup and have no qualms about picking up a coffee cup and not getting burned that cup is maybe 2 mm thick so I tell them imagine what 2 inches of foam could do you literally will see the lightbulb turn on in their head.
I’ve got a 40x72 14H which is heated to 60F with a 2 ton mini split heat pump in South Dakota all winter. I’ve got around a R-35-40 on the walls and an average of maybe 50 on the roof. It’s better than a Yeti cooler.
Same here in Las Vegas. I had the roof and walls of the double garage foamed here in Vegas. Outside is 115+ in the summer and we have 75* in the space. Walls and ceiling are not even warm to the touch after 2 months of 100*+ full sun.
I had my 24x32 garage spray ed 2inch in 2x4 walls 4inch under roof deck ,in Colorado. It cost $40 a month to heat in Winter with a 30amp heater that cost less than a $100. $40 electric includes power used when I 'm working out there.
I love how quality insulation lets you spend so much less on HVAC, all the way down to where you are essentially heating your home with a blow dryer, with the cost so low that you can totally justify electric resistance heat.
Could have spent less getting dense pack fiberglass and gotten higher r value, which means you'd be spending less than 40 a month and half the price to get it installed. $4k vs 7k but most people don't think about it.
@beatch42 closed cell is almost r7 per inch dense pack fiberglass is only r 3.5 per inch. Your right it's cheaper.
@@beatch42 I'd like to build a system I can safely humidify, so worried about condensation on the sheathing. I might put a few inches of spray then dense pact the rest. Hopefully with a zip R as well. Either the assembly has to be made naturally safe or you have to use one of those smart siga items on the interior.
We foamed our unvented attic on our new build at 7500' outside of Las Vegas. Had to go full depth of the truss rafters and covered the back of the rafters. Okay, it's overkill according to Mr. Jones. But that was the requirement. So we got R42 or something. But I have no complaints. Air seal: perfect. It's the southwest so no moisture buildup; climate zone 5.B = cold/dry per IBC.
Outside was freezing or lower just recently [1st week of February] and we set the thermostat to 55 when we left three days ago. I came back to 57. It hadn't even hit the target temp for the furnace to kick on. Spray foam is the only way to go.
Agreed. Common story to the SPF owners.
Owens Corning is selling spray foam now. Natural Polymers is their brand. They (OC) realize that current and upcoming energy efficiency standards can not be met by the DR Hortons, Lennar’s of the world without spray foam.
About time.. I can't celebrate them, they have lied to us for too long.
I do not know how I missed this video.
Bottom line, when the desire to have an extremely insulated residence, you are living in a bubble. The real pros and cons are two factors. The first factor is the amount of money you want to spend on your new build or renovation between to the two categories of insulation and HVAC. With the second factor being how fast is the return investment and long term savings achieved from the first factor?
As we learned over the last year, the published R-value of closed cell spray does not do it justice. The effective performance of CC foam has been tested with results of anywhere with a range from 2x to 3x higher. The BTU retention of the interior condition air whether it is heat or cooling will hold its value for a much greater period. Interesting to note, SIP & Nail Base manufactures are now putting that information as well in their technical bulletins with 2x the performance of published R-value.
Whereas other forms of insulation would require vast amounts of insulation and a greater overall wall thickness. That also means installing your windows and doors in a proper position to avoid the interior condensation build up. At that point you are now in the high-end passive house category. With coverage from the basement to the roof. Now, you are slowly seeing increase R-values for the basement, or a 1st floor that comes close to the roof requirement. Hence, the bubble effect.
As Mike clearly stated now and, in the past, when you make a house extremely tight, you must have the right balance with your HVAC equipment regardless of the type of insulation and thickness of. A house does not breath, rather the need to dry out from moisture. Organic specimen such as us humans, floral, and our beloved pets need to breath. Therefore, the balance in the HVAC equipment must be correctly specified for moisture removal and air quality to keep the interior correctly conditioned in the bubble.
Mike. I'm currently working on cleaning up the attic of my 75 year old house in Southeast US. Very hot and humid about 80% of the year here. As it stands, there is about 2 inches of old loose fiberglass, very dirty, under sporadically placed newer fiberglass. If I were to spread it uniformly, probably joist deep at best. I fully intend to remove every last spec of dust from the attic floor before I reinsulate, I'm also updating the roof deck ventilation system to a proper soffit-ridge system, with baffles and radiant barrier. Finally I'll be spot sealing obvious penetrations like wiring, top plates, and light fixtures. That's as far out as I've been able to plan, as there is so much conflicting information about insulation. I had been interested in the "flash and fill" system, but realize now that a few more inches of foam is worth a dozen more inches of loose fill. My question is this: In my hot and humid climate, with a properly ventilated attic, is spray foam on the attic floor right for me? Is open or closed cell preferred on the floor of a ventilated attic? Thank you Mike.
Yes the foam can work well on the attic floor. The issue is access to the corners and edges. Look for the video I made on spraying down vs up. It is in the non-vented playlist.
@@SprayJonesHave you ever tried to: 1.spray PUR on a sloped roof from the outside between wooden billets, 2.shave off the excess above the wood surface,3. cover it with vapor-permeable and water-repellent membrane,4.cover it with Rockwool insulation boards,5, nail counter laths and laths for some roof cover?
You might consider spraying the underside of the roof structure instead of the floor to make it an unvented space. That would solve several problems, among them air infiltration at the eaves and moisture buildup under the roof. The space would now be inside the envelope like the rest of the house.
Of course, you should check with an engineer for this to see if the local codes and/or the house itself could support the added load on the roof.
Hmmmm... right at the end we can "batt it around a little bit"
That is a truly awful/good pun. 👍
Thanks for a lot of information and help with planning my retrofit on 90+ year old farm cottage. And I will likely have to do a self install due to remote location where the work needs to be done with lots of prep and each part is a relatively small area (so, too much travel time per section).
Your thoughts on some of the pre-pressurised two box kits out there?
DIY kits are trouble just waiting to happen. The mix can go off so easily.
@@SprayJones True dat. I bought a kit online for an HVAC shed on my roof [8x12x5]. Outdoor air temp was right; bottles were right; I shook them up and did a trial spray on a piece of rock. No mixing; no foam. I thought it was me and sprayed a couple of stud bays.
It was the stuff. I had to scrape it out, still tacky, a few days later and replaced it with rigid foam sheets. Total bummer and nobody to ask for help or complain to.
Dad has a 48x72x16H. R28 on the walls and r-50 on the roof. It easily heats with the smallest gas boiler they make. 44,000 btu. Less than $100 to hear a month in South Dakota.
It’s not even a question… of course closed cell spray foam is the best way to create an airtight, highly insulated building.
My personal contention is not with spray foam, but rather I have a preference for simplicity. My personal choice is to heat my home entirely with a wood stove. I live in the mountains in Colorado and we don’t need air conditioners up here and the beetle kill trees are plentiful. Plus, blocking and splitting 6 cords of wood by hand every season is a great way to stay in shape.
My thought is that I don’t want to use spray foam because it essentially necessitates the installation and use of an HRV or ERV. This adds additional moving parts to the systems that run my home and I prefer fewer moving parts than more moving parts when possible. It’s very difficult for a “steel box heater” to fail (I do run a HEPA filter with the stove these days, but that’s not a requirement by any means).
All that to say: Spray foam is great, I just choose not to use it in my home because it requires additional systems to reduce mold growth, etc. At least that’s been my understanding, if I’m off base in my thinking, let me know where. Maybe you’ll convince me to use it in the future. :)
That's all very reasonable and fits under the label of "you do you".
My personal plans need to allow for advancing age and, if I get unlucky, not letting normal operations get trashed while recovering from an injury. Getting older is better than the alternative so has to be considered. And there is a constant non-zero risk of injury when fetching and processing wood.
It is my personal plan to make it possible to keep the cold (and heat - we cop it both ways) under management with better insulation and, like you say, a few moving parts. That way the house can still work even if/when my moving parts have problems.
Of course if could ever make my old farmhouse airtight and an air circulation device needs fixing I can open a window when I need. That's a choice I could make. I would hate to be caught with winter approaching. poor insulation, and reduced ability to process wood.
As a certified insulator. My views are. Closed cell costs money. You get 3 inch in your wall and 5.5 in your roof deck, r-21 and r38. This comes with convective elimination Wich allows for 0 ventilation of interior humidity, you you have to pay money to run machines to make the system work elongating the period in Wich you earn your return on investment of the install.
You could spend half that on dense pack fiberglass and get r-23, R-60. Wich is convective resistant and has more r value than the spray foam overall. In the end r value is king, and the higher r-value, no machine requiring, 80 to 100 years of effectivity, dense pack fiberglass will save you more much faster. And it also won't vapor lock your building.
Of course if you have a basement foundation. Spray foam can be a good application, but I prefer foamboard as long as the wall is flat.
Could you address buying an older home with spray foam on the roof? What is actually a reasonable method and level of invasiveness to adequately inspect the framing and sheathing, both for the prospective buyer and to satisfy lenders who want it all ripped out?
The easiest non invasive test is to have the roof thermally scanned on the outside after a big rain.
Water that is behind the shingles will show up as cold.
Any roof inspection agency can do this and comment on the condition of the rest.
SPF does not need to be ripped out just to satisfy someone's fears.
Another great video. I’ll be taking some pics and notes as to what I’m going to do, and hopefully you can take a look and give the Guru of Spray Foams wise thoughts…… even a simple 👍 or down would be so much appreciated
,!! Big fan and keep at it sir!,,,,👍👍😁😁✌️
Is there any issues with doing closed cell foam in hot humid climates like Dallas Texas where I live? I find every house I look at has open cell here in the Dallas area.
No. Huntsman's corp headquarters is in Dallas.
Im sorry everyone is doing open cell. I can wash dishes with open cell
What if I want to totally encapsulate my cottage (that's my plan), walls, ceiling and underside of the floor in closed spray foam. My main source of heat will be in floor radiant. NO HVAC or forced air, just in floor radiant. Cottage in Quebec. 5" under the floor and 3" on the walls and ceiling. Any issue with the above about sealing the entire envelope WITHOUT any HVAC or forced air? Thanks
There can be. So what happens if you want to lower humidity when it is up to temp? Wet clothes, etc. you have no air make up other than opening a window.... which will work.
Look for a long time cabins don't get complex HVAC and they are fine, wood stove and windows and spray foam and it'll work. Just understand what you are buying.
Would there be a problem putting spray foam over concrete floor in crawl space that already has walls and joists rims done. Trying to humidity under control under house and raise temp to stop water lines from freezing. Just barely enough room to crawl around under house
I'm not bashing spray foam and will probably use it in a future home. But I did watch a video on a "Build Show" channel where the pros and cons of each insulation product were discussed in great detail. No product was favored over another and no particular brand was being pushed, truly an objective comparison. The presenter was a big regional insulation company owner who installed his first batt in 1977. He uses all methods and knows how to install each correctly. Ironically, he was on a call back to fix a problem on a couple of problem areas with the spray foam when they decided to film the presentation. The problem areas occurred when a clog occurred in one of the chemicals and it did not cure properly and could easily be pulled from the wall. The poor curing was not detectedable for a few days and was only discovered by poking around and feeling the adhesion problem. So even a pro working in ideal conditions with quality product can have problems. They fixed it with a froth pack. He stood behind his job. I will hire a reputable experienced installer, but I will poke around on it up until it is walled over.
What you don't know is that no pro working with a spray gun every day has "a clog" that affects ratio so substantially that they have to remove material and didn't know it when it happened. That is rookieville 101.
We are pros here and can sniff out BS in no time.
@@SprayJones You take everything too personally. Too defensive. Sorry, but Spray Jones is not going to do my job in NC. I will have to rely on customer reviews, BBB reports, and my own infotmed assessment of a potential installer. My information will come from a multitude of sources, not just one guy pushing one particular product. At the end of the day, an equipment malfunction could cause a problem that is impossible to see, even for an expert. So instead of acknowledging that, you choose to call the installer, who you don't even know, a hack. I am just a potential customer for spray foam. I have no stake in the insulation game. If I lived in your region, you'd be on the top of my list.
@@SprayJones For reference, the video I am talking about is on the Jake Bruton YT channel, titled "What is the best insulation? (Part 1, Part 2). The part where they take a look at the spray foam problem area is at the end of Part 2, but I recommend the whole thing, although it may be nothing new to you.
@@markstipulkoski1389 what jones is telling you is that the installer did know. As a spray foamer myself I can tell you the equipment does not malfunction without the sprayer knowing. If the gun were to clog it’s not going to spray correctly even if it’s slightly off ratio you will be able to feel it in the gun & see it by the way the foam grows. If it’s a chemical supply issue from the reactor it’s still going to let the sprayer known right at the gun. If you have a sprayer saying he didn’t realize or didn’t know he is in fact a rookie, I will say there are sometimes conditions as sprayers were asked to spray in which isn’t ideal and can cause problems for even the best sprayers the only way to prevent that is shut the job down, in that instance I always let builders know that I CAN install it but these are the list of possible problems. Most times they agree to wait & have it done properly
@@SprayJonesI’m assuming that’s what you meant anyway, obviously anyone can get a clog but you’ll always know.
My neighbor used it in their new house, it works well, but quality of work is terrible
Many morons out there.
I want to use closed cell in my forever last stand Barndo in central Florida, my only reservation is the possibility of not being able find water leaks. Is this a real concern?
Just when do you want water to stop? When inside?
@@SprayJones The contention is because the water doesn't expose itself quickly, the leak can accumulate and do a lot of damage before being exposed monthths later. I'm probably willing to take this risk with huge benefits in a FL environment.
@@victorpistone1073 You need to explain this to me??
When do you want the water to stop? How easy is it to detect leaks with any product that stops water?
@@SprayJones I didn't realize the closed cell stops water, correct ?
@@victorpistone1073you would be correct in the event of a leak it would hide the problem. As it is essentially a 4 or 5 inch thick piece of plastic. If it creates too much air tightness then you need an hrv system for fresh air
Where are you locared
LOVE your videos, I'm sold on spray foam, especially because I am building in Montana right now.
Just wondering, I am doing a few buildings on my place, (1 ready to insul now but I'll wait for warmer weather, and at least 3 more) any thoughts if I am really careful application, about buying an inexpensive rig and doing my own spraying?
I am a retired contractor been in the building industry for 50 years +/- and I understand after watching this video channel a lot of the right things to do, and I would take my time, I have a local source for BASF Walltite. Any thoughts?
Get a pro and make a deal for all 3. You cannot learn this in 3 buildings.
@@SprayJones Seriously but it looks so easy to do. You save thousands doing it yourself here in Montana. I get quoted $10k for a roof deck on 44x32 home.
It seems to me that thermal bridging is a nothing burger with spray foam
Correct.
Would you use closed cell in the shop and in the house? Or would you use open cell in the house??
Closed as much as the wallet can handle.
You don't want to use a synthetic sponge in your walls. Closed cell or no foam at all.
Thank you!!
Where in sask are you located? I've started a build and want to do spray foam.
Go to my web site
Recommend anyone in Seattle?
Sorry don't know anyone there.
Yes Please!
Makes me want to build a house. Bob in Nevada where we break all the rules 'cause we can.