Thank you for sharing! Those are amazing looking rings! This method is very similar to how I mount all my optics except I never considered using a lubricant on the base. Interesting concept but it does make sense!
This is really weird.... I consider myself kind of a hillbilly with my guns but this is 100% the way I've always done it. Pretty coo to know I was doin it right😎Thanks!
This is slightly different than area419s imstructional video on installing them. In that video he says not to worry about having the optic level at first. Tighten the rings down, then tighten the base down. Once the base is tight, you can loosen the rings and level your optic, then tighten them back down. That's how I've always done my area419 match scope rings. And it works great. These are by far my favorite scope rings. I love the guide pins on each side to keep the ring gaps the same. I'd be curious to see how much of a benefit the one-piece mounts would be compared to their rings. I'd like to give them a try at some point. I chose the rings solely off of saving a bit of weight since my rifles pretty heavy. My barrels a competition contour at 7lbs, and the mdt chassis also about 7lb plus the optic, suppressor, action and so on.
Back in the day, I’d watch a lot of tutorials from 8541 Tactical’s channel. The processes he would show are very similar to what I just watched on your channel. All in all, sound advice. The plumb bob and string is a must. Not all reticles are set perfectly in the tube.
So when I lap rings , I'm actually removing material that binds the scope to the rings which is a good thing, I'll have to start using lubricant on the bases. Learned something new, always love the videos!
Absolutely lapping the ring once installed to the base or rifle is the only way. Doesn’t matter the quality of the rings. Use bluing,a steel lapping bar and fine valve grinding paste untill all blueing is gone perfect job.
Raw aluminum after the final inline boring will quickly oxidize. The aluminum oxide is how much softer than the anodizing? More like just eliminating having to deal with anodizing making the bore tolerance too tight.
Will wet mounting it cause any danger of the rings slipping backwards if the rifle was butt-down riding in a truck on a bumpy road for instance? Or is the remaining friction still enough to counteract that?
Love it. Love the match scope rings or unimount. I do question how many high recoil shots starts to induce warping or some creep somewhere through time not withstanding the coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminium on steel receiver. Moreover, 2lb scope with another 1lb or possibly heavier torch or 1lb vortex impact 400 mounted on the diving board atop the front ring seems like a huge amount of force to cope with and I have my concerns about ring distortion or something getting beaten serious. Steel would get thinner material, lower heel in ring, lower one-piece base and stronger and better for that hunter for keeping low and coping with stress and heat from sun in the northern states of Australia. And why is incline always 20MOA or something, why can’t it be an even 5 or 10MIL for MIL scopes.
that is about how I go about mounting a scope lube lube on the rail is a neat trick. Do you use lock tight anywhere in the process ? How often do you check the torque setting ? before each hunt / match ? Thanks for sharing This in invaluable data
Why would you mount your bubble level as far forward as you can... I like mine closer to my eye. It seems to work okay.. I was just wondering why you said that...Great video thanks man !
I haven’t started the video yet. But: I’ll describe my process and see how it matches up. I’ll align the one piece rings loosely with a 1” broom handle between them to ensure they’re aligned as tightened down. Once I’m sure they’re aligned with each other, torque down to whatever the specs say. Then, I’ll put a bubble level on the bottom of the action (I use flat bottom actions) and clamp one to the barrel to match. Then, put level on the scope and ensure the reticle is level while looking at a level in the room. This ensures that the reticle matches with the turret cap or informs on how much to adjust to compensate for any mismatch. Set eye relief by shouldering the rifle repeatedly on Maximum magnification. Tighten scope down very gradually using figure 8 pattern ensure the scope doesn’t roll in the rings during this process. Tighten down to whatever inch pound spec recommended by the manufacturer. I’ve done this for decades and it has never failed me. Maybe I’m wrong.
@@withoutprejudice8301 Well he didn't check to see if the scope rotated at all while cinching down and he didn't approach the end of the torque range gradually enough between bolts. Maybe it was just a quick and dirty demo, I don't know, but if you checked for level after what he didn't, it wouldn't be.
I recently bought rings with the locator pins and line bored. Why wasn't this a thing all along? I replaced all my rings with the new style ones, what a pain. Also line boring as it's called in the automotive world is common for cams and cranks but not scope rings. Yes, I know you could buy a ring lapping kit and do it yourself, but I never did. Hoping for the best and lazy plus I don't own heavy recoiling rifles. I also use 1 piece picatinny rails on all my rifles.
It can be very beneficial to see vignette in your optic while looking through it. An example is, say there is mirage in your field of view and you can’t tell whether the parallax is dialed out of your optic. By having vignette in the optic you now can center up your eye and vision to look straight through the optic. You now will be aiming exactly where you are aiming without error.
Back in the olden days many methods and technologies were had. Top engineers at the largest US rifle manufacturers created many things to improve on the interference fit at the matte or glossy lightly polished bearing like surfaces. Friction tapes and plastic bearings actually decreased the barring surface and the dust settled back on maximum contact area. Me thinx Sometimes I wonder if anyone had ever scuffed up the surfaces with gritty sandpaper. Please excuse my geeking out
If your gunsmith has a mill and the barrel is of the appropriate diameter yes. Ultralight profile barrels most of the time will lack the sufficient amount of material to machine drill/tap for a front sight screw.
Grooves on the inside of the rings? If so, that’s a European thing. You can sprinkle powdered rosin into the rings before mounting the scope and it’ll settle into the grooves and prevent scope slippage.
Fix It Sticks torque limiters have fixed values, in this case 15 in-lbs. The next one up is 20. Would be nice to have 18 in the kit since that is a very common recommendation for torque on a scope tube
Strange that they don't use feeler gauges to ensure the gaps on the rings are 100% even. I use a thick gauge to start with, then go down in Micrometers until the rings screws are at the correct torque. Considering the ring installation is seldom done, I feel the process is worth it.
Is it really smart to level it according to the reticle? Isn't it more important that it is leveled correctly according to the y axis of the adjustment? Because the reticle can be canted and you would never know without testing. Because if the y axis of the adjustment is skewed then you would enter wind adjustment without knowing it and therefore potentially miss since you entered an adjustment that you shouldn't have entered? You will of course discover this in a tall target test but it is still okay to start correctly.
I don't get the point of screwing down the caps before torquing down the base of the rings. The pic rail on the action is solid and if there is any axial difference between the rings being torqued to the scope, torquing down the base of the rings afterwards will put that difference into the scope. Torquing down the caps can pull the bases slightly out of true as it is not tight to the pic rail. Him saying at the end any stress goes into the receiver also does not make sense, the receiver is solid steel, any stress is going straight back and twisting your optical egg.
I would never use the mounting method shown in this video. From an engineering standpoint, it is exactly opposite of what you are trying to achieve. First step, if required, should be to ensure that the rail or rails are cleaned, then properly mounted and secured using a thread locking compound. This step should include inspection of the rails for burrs or defects. The next step is cleaning, inspecting, and mounting the rings, pressed forward in the picatinny slots and then torqued. This is the proper point to address any stress on the optic tube. If you have any inconsistencies in machining of the rails, mounting of rails (especially two-piece rails), receiver screw mounting deviations, dimensional altering stresses caused by torquing of the rail or ring mounting screws, or minor deviations in the rings; these factors could exhibit undesirable forces on the optic tube. At this point, the proper way to remove all the factors forementioned is to do a precision line bore lapping of the rings. For my builds, I utilize a hardened precision ground shaft for the lap. Commercially available lapping bars are typically 0.003 inches smaller than the tube diameters. This is to compensate for the size of the coarse abrasive supplied with these kits. After coating the rings with layout bluing to indicate contact and alignment, I typically start with 320 grit lapping compound, then 600 grit, and finish with 1200 grit. This lapping method provides a smooth finish and a fit within a few tenths. This method gives a perfect alignment of the bore of both rings to the optic tube, thus eliminating stresses. It is only at this point that I level the rail(s), scope, and then carefully torque the ring caps. Once the optic is mounted, I never remove the rings from the weapon. If that becomes necessary, another lapping procedure would be required to insure proper alignment.
yeah why not? Of course I don't apply any lubricant to the scope body clamping surfaces. Rather than applying lube to the entire picatinny rail mounting surfaces, I apply lube to the ring portion that clamps to the picatinny.
His X-pattern is inconsistent, and most of the time wrong. He tightens both on one side, then crosses over and does both on the other side. It should be first one, across, diagonal back, across, diagonal back to first one.
You don't want raw aluminum because it will oxidize over time and I don't want that. Align bore them and then hard coat anodize then put them up on the market then I might be interested in buying them.
I think at this point methods between scope mounting with these manufacturers is splitting hairs. It’s all just a way to sound fancy to sell their products
Setting your eye box on more budget friendly scopes should be done NOT at full magnification. Budget scopes typically are only good for 75% of their advertised magnification.
Dowel Pins as used for precision robotic applications, very common, but nice to see them used here in rings.
Wow, glad to see I've been mounting scopes properly for years!
Thank you for sharing! Those are amazing looking rings! This method is very similar to how I mount all my optics except I never considered using a lubricant on the base. Interesting concept but it does make sense!
This guy really knows his stuff.
This is really weird.... I consider myself kind of a hillbilly with my guns but this is 100% the way I've always done it. Pretty coo to know I was doin it right😎Thanks!
This is slightly different than area419s imstructional video on installing them. In that video he says not to worry about having the optic level at first. Tighten the rings down, then tighten the base down. Once the base is tight, you can loosen the rings and level your optic, then tighten them back down. That's how I've always done my area419 match scope rings. And it works great. These are by far my favorite scope rings. I love the guide pins on each side to keep the ring gaps the same. I'd be curious to see how much of a benefit the one-piece mounts would be compared to their rings. I'd like to give them a try at some point. I chose the rings solely off of saving a bit of weight since my rifles pretty heavy. My barrels a competition contour at 7lbs, and the mdt chassis also about 7lb plus the optic, suppressor, action and so on.
If it's a bench gun the weight is good. If you hunt with that thing, I feel bad for you lol
@evanhandelong7685 lol
I have the 1 piece mount. Worth every penny comparatively speaking
There seems to be a campaign against one peice. I am not ditching mine in a hurry. But these 419 ri g look nice.
@ I saw a few things like that. I have no problem with mine. It’s very well machined and well thought out
Yeah. If it doesn’t create a height issue in whatever setup you’re using, one piece is so much better.
Back in the day, I’d watch a lot of tutorials from 8541 Tactical’s channel. The processes he would show are very similar to what I just watched on your channel. All in all, sound advice. The plumb bob and string is a must. Not all reticles are set perfectly in the tube.
I like the pin feature - nice guys! 😊
The word he was looking for was crush .. I always do my crossbolts first lol pretty good video
One of my favorite videos. Love collaboration
I have two of these, love em’
Nice set of rings!
Ill admit Im a huge fan of the ARC rings and mounts for my bolt Warne for my ARs and I doubt Ill change soon.
Great video. It was quite funny to watch someone else mount a scope exactly like me, weird.
Use feeler gauges for consistent ring gap
Precision PIN does not allows the base and ring top half to move.
I use an expired Papa John’s gift card 😂
@@zsoltczibula5722 Don't bet on it. I'll use a feeler gage and on a two ring setup, I'll lap the rings in once they are torqued to the rail.
I use a Suunto clinometer to level the scope to the rifle.
How wonderful how we have been doing this for these years just fine.
Found it strange that the base of the rings was not pushed forward to stop any movement on recoil?
I was going to ask the same thing?
Pretty sure he does at 13:10
@@DuckhunterbowOK I see it now.✌🏻
So when I lap rings , I'm actually removing material that binds the scope to the rings which is a good thing, I'll have to start using lubricant on the bases. Learned something new, always love the videos!
Absolutely lapping the ring once installed to the base or rifle is the only way. Doesn’t matter the quality of the rings. Use bluing,a steel lapping bar and fine valve grinding paste untill all blueing is gone perfect job.
This has always been on my mind when mounting with any rings. Some dont feel right when i torque them down, they feel bound up.
Raw aluminum after the final inline boring will quickly oxidize. The aluminum oxide is how much softer than the anodizing? More like just eliminating having to deal with anodizing making the bore tolerance too tight.
Will wet mounting it cause any danger of the rings slipping backwards if the rifle was butt-down riding in a truck on a bumpy road for instance? Or is the remaining friction still enough to counteract that?
Love it. Love the match scope rings or unimount. I do question how many high recoil shots starts to induce warping or some creep somewhere through time not withstanding the coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminium on steel receiver. Moreover, 2lb scope with another 1lb or possibly heavier torch or 1lb vortex impact 400 mounted on the diving board atop the front ring seems like a huge amount of force to cope with and I have my concerns about ring distortion or something getting beaten serious. Steel would get thinner material, lower heel in ring, lower one-piece base and stronger and better for that hunter for keeping low and coping with stress and heat from sun in the northern states of Australia. And why is incline always 20MOA or something, why can’t it be an even 5 or 10MIL for MIL scopes.
Nice video he never said the ring height for that scope mount
Very helpful, thanks.
What set of tools is the Guy using to mount the scope ?
What about a drop of blue loctite on the screw threads? I hear some do it, some don’t.
that is about how I go about mounting a scope lube lube on the rail is a neat trick. Do you use lock tight anywhere in the process ? How often do you check the torque setting ? before each hunt / match ? Thanks for sharing This in invaluable data
I am wondering what tools they use to perfectly level the gun for reticle alignment.
Why would you mount your bubble level as far forward as you can... I like mine closer to my eye.
It seems to work okay.. I was just wondering why you said that...Great video thanks man !
I haven’t started the video yet. But: I’ll describe my process and see how it matches up.
I’ll align the one piece rings loosely with a 1” broom handle between them to ensure they’re aligned as tightened down. Once I’m sure they’re aligned with each other, torque down to whatever the specs say.
Then, I’ll put a bubble level on the bottom of the action (I use flat bottom actions) and clamp one to the barrel to match.
Then, put level on the scope and ensure the reticle is level while looking at a level in the room. This ensures that the reticle matches with the turret cap or informs on how much to adjust to compensate for any mismatch.
Set eye relief by shouldering the rifle repeatedly on Maximum magnification.
Tighten scope down very gradually using figure 8 pattern ensure the scope doesn’t roll in the rings during this process. Tighten down to whatever inch pound spec recommended by the manufacturer.
I’ve done this for decades and it has never failed me. Maybe I’m wrong.
Oh. This video was just marketing. He doesn’t even do a careful and thorough job of mounting the scope.
Interesting........, what's a "thorough" mounting process?
@@withoutprejudice8301 Well he didn't check to see if the scope rotated at all while cinching down and he didn't approach the end of the torque range gradually enough between bolts. Maybe it was just a quick and dirty demo, I don't know, but if you checked for level after what he didn't, it wouldn't be.
What if you remove and put the the scope with rings on another rifle. What order will be best?
So assuming the rings are bored to 34mm +\- 0 what is the size and tolerance on the scope tube itself
Were is the scope location mounted?
Love my one piece mount!
I recently bought rings with the locator pins and line bored. Why wasn't this a thing all along? I replaced all my rings with the new style ones, what a pain. Also line boring as it's called in the automotive world is common for cams and cranks but not scope rings. Yes, I know you could buy a ring lapping kit and do it yourself, but I never did. Hoping for the best and lazy plus I don't own heavy recoiling rifles. I also use 1 piece picatinny rails on all my rifles.
It can be very beneficial to see vignette in your optic while looking through it. An example is, say there is mirage in your field of view and you can’t tell whether the parallax is dialed out of your optic. By having vignette in the optic you now can center up your eye and vision to look straight through the optic. You now will be aiming exactly where you are aiming without error.
Back in the olden days many methods and technologies were had. Top engineers at the largest US rifle manufacturers created many things to improve on the interference fit at the matte or glossy lightly polished bearing like surfaces. Friction tapes and plastic bearings actually decreased the barring surface and the dust settled back on maximum contact area. Me thinx Sometimes I wonder if anyone had ever scuffed up the surfaces with gritty sandpaper. Please excuse my geeking out
Can you install iron sights on a gun that did not come with them?
If your gunsmith has a mill and the barrel is of the appropriate diameter yes. Ultralight profile barrels most of the time will lack the sufficient amount of material to machine drill/tap for a front sight screw.
Some scope rings have a grove in it (sphur for example), what it is for?
Grooves on the inside of the rings?
If so, that’s a European thing. You can sprinkle powdered rosin into the rings before mounting the scope and it’ll settle into the grooves and prevent scope slippage.
Greta video, I might have missed it but I thought it was said 18 torque and he did 15. Why not the full 18?
Fix It Sticks torque limiters have fixed values, in this case 15 in-lbs. The next one up is 20. Would be nice to have 18 in the kit since that is a very common recommendation for torque on a scope tube
@ I got you. I own fix it sticks but I use the 5-65 so I’m able to go to the exact number. I just thought maybe he went lower for a reason.
Strange that they don't use feeler gauges to ensure the gaps on the rings are 100% even. I use a thick gauge to start with, then go down in Micrometers until the rings screws are at the correct torque. Considering the ring installation is seldom done, I feel the process is worth it.
Is it really smart to level it according to the reticle?
Isn't it more important that it is leveled correctly according to the y axis of the adjustment?
Because the reticle can be canted and you would never know without testing.
Because if the y axis of the adjustment is skewed then you would enter wind adjustment without knowing it and therefore potentially miss since you entered an adjustment that you shouldn't have entered?
You will of course discover this in a tall target test but it is still okay to start correctly.
The snap as optic comes free of saddle. Hmm. Interesting.
I don't get the point of screwing down the caps before torquing down the base of the rings. The pic rail on the action is solid and if there is any axial difference between the rings being torqued to the scope, torquing down the base of the rings afterwards will put that difference into the scope. Torquing down the caps can pull the bases slightly out of true as it is not tight to the pic rail. Him saying at the end any stress goes into the receiver also does not make sense, the receiver is solid steel, any stress is going straight back and twisting your optical egg.
I came to exactly the same conclusion
First comment, I’ll watch my wife’s done yelling at me.
Silicone is sticky because it is smooth and not because of the material properties? Non-engineer sales guy eh?
I've never heard of "wet mounting"... great idea.
I would never use the mounting method shown in this video. From an engineering standpoint, it is exactly opposite of what you are trying to achieve. First step, if required, should be to ensure that the rail or rails are cleaned, then properly mounted and secured using a thread locking compound. This step should include inspection of the rails for burrs or defects. The next step is cleaning, inspecting, and mounting the rings, pressed forward in the picatinny slots and then torqued. This is the proper point to address any stress on the optic tube. If you have any inconsistencies in machining of the rails, mounting of rails (especially two-piece rails), receiver screw mounting deviations, dimensional altering stresses caused by torquing of the rail or ring mounting screws, or minor deviations in the rings; these factors could exhibit undesirable forces on the optic tube. At this point, the proper way to remove all the factors forementioned is to do a precision line bore lapping of the rings. For my builds, I utilize a hardened precision ground shaft for the lap. Commercially available lapping bars are typically 0.003 inches smaller than the tube diameters. This is to compensate for the size of the coarse abrasive supplied with these kits. After coating the rings with layout bluing to indicate contact and alignment, I typically start with 320 grit lapping compound, then 600 grit, and finish with 1200 grit. This lapping method provides a smooth finish and a fit within a few tenths. This method gives a perfect alignment of the bore of both rings to the optic tube, thus eliminating stresses. It is only at this point that I level the rail(s), scope, and then carefully torque the ring caps. Once the optic is mounted, I never remove the rings from the weapon. If that becomes necessary, another lapping procedure would be required to insure proper alignment.
1,0000% right. Doesn’t matter how much you spend on rings.
Well the 419 funnel is 100 bucks. Damn right those rings are 200 bucks lol. Anymore I get a kick out the prices of stuff.
I agree on wet mounting, although I lube the rings upon final install.
You oil the mating surface of the ring and scope? Please tell me you don’t.
yeah why not?
Of course I don't apply any lubricant to the scope body clamping surfaces. Rather than applying lube to the entire picatinny rail mounting surfaces, I apply lube to the ring portion that clamps to the picatinny.
😂
His X-pattern is inconsistent, and most of the time wrong. He tightens both on one side, then crosses over and does both on the other side. It should be first one, across, diagonal back, across, diagonal back to first one.
You don't want raw aluminum because it will oxidize over time and I don't want that. Align bore them and then hard coat anodize then put them up on the market then I might be interested in buying them.
I think at this point methods between scope mounting with these manufacturers is splitting hairs. It’s all just a way to sound fancy to sell their products
Přírodní aluminium je velký problém. Bude reagovat s povrchem puškohledu a poškodí ho !!! 😂
1000% overprized.
SPUHR only!
Maybe we should assign a gender to scope rings? 😂
SPUHR is great, these are better. Except for SPUHRs built in base cut out for leveling on one piece mounts, that feature does beat 419.
If you want less holding power as tested.
cracking mounts for you then lol
@@Ooogs-h1iBase Cut for Level is only by Block Mount! Not by Rings!
Setting your eye box on more budget friendly scopes should be done NOT at full magnification. Budget scopes typically are only good for 75% of their advertised magnification.