ad5m is great. have over 200 hours on mine in the last few months. printed enclosure and also in a tent. It's quiet enough and no issues after tuning for the filament.
Honestly, for death blobs, I'd say that the thermal stripping blade for a soldering iron(they come with butane ones, they're basically a wedge you can use as a knife) is one of the best ways to slowly and carefully cut away a death blob, where you can then use a pair of pliers to grab the pieces you cut away and carefully pull them out without ripping any cables out. It's cheaper than the hotair station at least, and really quite handy if you want to just quickly cut a 3d print apart.
Investigate the following: We had a user with a Kobra 2 Plus a few days ago which had a burnt PTFE Tube and was about to burn but was turned off before a fire could occur. Take a look at the hotend. The PTFE Tube on the Kobra 2 Series goes down directly to the top of the hotend. Perhaps that's an issue on the Kobra3, too. If then the hotend gets over 240 degrees or so, the PTFE can start to melt and flow down on the Hotend.
i got a kobra 2 neo and the PTFE tube also goes straight in to the hotend, and if i am right this was with my Kobra Go as well. Never been really a issue but glad i dont use those printers no more.
PTFE to the hot end has been the default of any hot end that isn't "all metal" for better part of a decade.. For some not only to the hot end, but literally TO the nozzle for some cheap brands that were meant to only run PLA. It was the most economical and most user serviceable solution and used by EVERY hobbyist brand. That is where it also became important to know that if you want to print filaments outside of PLA, PETG, we had to upgrade to a full metal hot end. Also PTFE will not melt at 240.. not even at 300C.. it simply starts to warm up and become malible at 260 and starts releasing fumes you don't want to be around. PTFE "flowing" wont happen at anything a hobby level 3d printer can reach. It may become soft enough that abrasive filaments can peel filings of it off that end up in your hotend though. In comparison, i was very surprised that Bambu by default has all metal hot ends even on the A series, at their price point for the A series.
Another great video mate. What scares me is not that printers can burn up it's that some people believe it can't happen :( We are working with machines that are designed to melt plastic at high temperatures, of course there's room for it to go wrong :) This is why I have installed extra fire alarms, keep a fire blanket and extinguisher to hand and don't set prints running when I know I won't be home. That is before we look at the specifics of certain printers that seem to ship with faults or less than ideal components.
Times are really hard this holiday season. My surgery has really f'ed up a lot of things financially. Miss you guys too! Happy New Years! Say "What's up!" top everyone for me and, especially MADCAT.
@16:00 is why I am against people printing X or Y cable chains, but do nothing to upgrade the wiring that is flexible enough to be contained in a cable chain. Your average printer wiring will either work harden like shown, be bent at a higher angle than if not in a chain and result in issues over time, or simply the chain rub the wiring and wear off through the sheathing and risk shorts. Z axis move so slow and in small increments in comparison that it many times can be chained without risk, but XY movement can very quickly wear out wiring. Proper wiring made for cable chains has a more silcone inclusive sheathing and usually higher strand count to handle the flex and wear of the chain friction.
6:05 also check the nozzle is clean before starting print. Had a similar issue with Voron Tap where the first few probe points (bottom left) would be way off from rest of points due to a tiny bit of plastic on nozzle that would knock/fall off after a few probe points.
I have a Kobra 3 and I have observed that the Hotend wires (Black) are rubbing against the screw holding the part cooling nozzel in place on the inside of the cover showing black dust and damage on the cable to the nozzel. This would have short circuited the hotend if not rectified. Quickly sorted with some electric tape covering the screw.
Hiya Grant, I think the problem on the Sovol SV08 could be that the part wrapped at the front left corner. It looks like the part lifted up there. I had the cable problem with the canbus cable of a BTT SB2209. I used the included cable in my drag chains. After just ~100h of printing on my Voron V2 the prints were stopping at different heights. After some painstaking tests, I found out the error happened at roughly the same X-Y position. I took the cable out, dissected it and found out the CanL cable was broken inside the insulator. Now my V2 runs with an Ölflex cable and no problems whatsoever. I will never use an included canbus cable of any canboard in the future again. I don't know why the factories of can boards do not include a high quality cable in their kits, as I would gladly pay more for a kit with an Ölflex or other branded cable which is certified to run in cable chains. The whole troubleshooting to so long and costs more than to pay for an upgrade for the proper cable. 100m of Ölflex cable are ~95€ which would result in added ~4€ bare costs to the can kit. even if the factory would double the price of it to let's say 10€ additional cost, I would gladly pay for it. Unfortunately even after raising the issue on discord with BTT, there is not even a warning not to use their cable in drag chains, not in the manual nor on the biqu product page, as I suggested to them.
Yeah, as a owner of the Kobra 3, I still can't recommend it. It's inconsistent and they are still working out the bugs almost 6 months later. Leaky hotend, Bad firmwares, Horrible Cable Management setup, Z Rod Coupler Rubbing, Bad Wiring, and Z-Offset not saving. Just Spend the Extra Money and Get the A1 combo that the Kobra is Copying from anyway.
For the cable inside the drag chain... the best thing is to replace the cable itself or the full wire assembly. But you would need the extraction tool for the pins so the connector does not get damaged. Tbh buying a new cable assembly would be my option, if I would not have decided to go CANbus now. And for everyone who might think soldering would be ok. No. Don't solder such broken cables which move a lot. They will fail 100%, and they will fail sooner than later.
I was testing the mk3.5 + mmu3 combo. It was going good until the purge tower fell off. That's what I get for printing on a bed I haven't cleaned at all in at least 6 months. lol
My experience with the SV07's at least. they are perfectly fine until you fall asleep. then all hell breaks loose. usually, by my reconng, about 20 minutes after you are out for the night
The issue with any cubic it that their therrmal protection settings are unknown. They don't let you access the firmware settings on the kobra 2 pro, max, and plus. My kobra 2 pro doesn't off the bed nor hotend during preheat at all forafter an extended period of time. I don't know if the kobra 3 are having the same problems, after seeing these issue, I'm not buying anything from any cubic without an open source firmware. Anycubic as a company doesn't fix their problems, they just release a new 3d printer a year later with even more problems. They also rush their products to the market with a ton of issues.
What do you think about kitchen organizers using 3D-printers? It feels a bit uncomfortable using PETG for that. Dichloromethane would give a bit more peace of mind, but still a bit concerning regarding the creation of a surface, which is perfect for bacteria. PP might be the alternative, but I am still unsure.
Dichloromethane is too dangerous IMO (says the guy that uses it all the time...) PP is definitely an alternative but layer lines are still the issue. TECHNICALLY I would think that if it is always dry it SHOULD be fine, but I am not a scientist. you could always coat it a bit in epoxy or something but that of course removes the print and go fun of 3d printing...
@@3DMusketeers Have you tried it to remove layer lines? A friend of mine tried doing that for a PLA toy using a brush, and it was a success. Still, I hesitate to use it even though I have a MILLA mask with an A2 filter.
cable fails; one of my printers started to develop a thermister fault with instant shutdown (fortunately) every time it ran more than 4 inches above the bed. @#$%$ ribbon cables. After receiving my replacement printer, I ended up carefully setting up the ribbon cable path to spread the flex across the entire cable as much as possible. zip ties in the right places (some intentionally very loose).
With multiple printers myself, I am kinda disappointed with the overall negative views on the kobra 3. I also have 2 bambus, another kobra 2 and 2 crealitys. It does scare me that there have been a couple fire posts I’ve seen, but actual print quality I’ve had nothing but good luck. Have had more issues with my p1p than either of my anycubics. But I guess it just shows that each person is different and it can majorly vary machine to machine.
this may be the hot end anycubic kobra 3 nozzle leaking Announcement Regarding Free Replacement of the Quick- ...Anycubic 21 Aug 2024 - If your device has experienced filament leakage at the hotend, please see the images below for reference.
Anycubic... kobra 2... my first printer.... was returned because shorted itself with melted bed cables but support sent me a bed replacement... but yeah the mainboard was dead so... I have a kobra 2 bed for free and they refund me the printer.... never china printer again.
I'm just going to be "that guy" and say that if you cook bacon in a teflon coated pan you don't deserve bacon. Cast iron for the win. If grandma could cook in cast iron and not have it stick you can too. Bonus points for cast iron being non-toxic. For the anycubic kobra 3 fire, I wouldn't be the least bit shocked if it was one of the early ones that has the defective nozzle. Many of them are getting HORRIBLE blobs and if they aren't caught in time...well you can see the result. Oddly enough their solution seems to be to GLUE the nozzle into the hotend. Lots of complaints on r/anycubicoffical. Methinks that anycubic will be facing a similar public relations issue as Qidi did. If they were smart they'd just send out replacement re-engineered hotends to every owner AND include one with every new sale PLUS stop selling them until they replace them in EVERY one they still have in the warehouses. But this is exactly why I will NEVER be an early adopter for ANY product. I say let the suckers jump in the front of the line and pay to be beta testers. I'll consider buying once they've come out with the second, or even third, revision.
I too enjoy the love of cast iron from time to time, however the convenience factor of non stick CAN be nice. Depends on how much time I have or if I have not abused the cast iron somehow accidentally...
@@3DMusketeers I still have, and use, my grandma's cast iron skillet she got as a wedding present from her mother-in-law in 1936. the ONLY teflon I own is the bowden tubes in my parts bin. 😁😁
ad5m is great. have over 200 hours on mine in the last few months. printed enclosure and also in a tent. It's quiet enough and no issues after tuning for the filament.
Honestly, for death blobs, I'd say that the thermal stripping blade for a soldering iron(they come with butane ones, they're basically a wedge you can use as a knife) is one of the best ways to slowly and carefully cut away a death blob, where you can then use a pair of pliers to grab the pieces you cut away and carefully pull them out without ripping any cables out.
It's cheaper than the hotair station at least, and really quite handy if you want to just quickly cut a 3d print apart.
Investigate the following:
We had a user with a Kobra 2 Plus a few days ago which had a burnt PTFE Tube and was about to burn but was turned off before a fire could occur.
Take a look at the hotend. The PTFE Tube on the Kobra 2 Series goes down directly to the top of the hotend. Perhaps that's an issue on the Kobra3, too. If then the hotend gets over 240 degrees or so, the PTFE can start to melt and flow down on the Hotend.
i got a kobra 2 neo and the PTFE tube also goes straight in to the hotend, and if i am right this was with my Kobra Go as well.
Never been really a issue but glad i dont use those printers no more.
PTFE to the hot end has been the default of any hot end that isn't "all metal" for better part of a decade.. For some not only to the hot end, but literally TO the nozzle for some cheap brands that were meant to only run PLA. It was the most economical and most user serviceable solution and used by EVERY hobbyist brand. That is where it also became important to know that if you want to print filaments outside of PLA, PETG, we had to upgrade to a full metal hot end. Also PTFE will not melt at 240.. not even at 300C.. it simply starts to warm up and become malible at 260 and starts releasing fumes you don't want to be around. PTFE "flowing" wont happen at anything a hobby level 3d printer can reach. It may become soft enough that abrasive filaments can peel filings of it off that end up in your hotend though.
In comparison, i was very surprised that Bambu by default has all metal hot ends even on the A series, at their price point for the A series.
Hey, Kobra 2 Neo here, that isnt the case for my model, stops about 8mm above. So yea, maybe that is the issue
Another great video mate. What scares me is not that printers can burn up it's that some people believe it can't happen :( We are working with machines that are designed to melt plastic at high temperatures, of course there's room for it to go wrong :) This is why I have installed extra fire alarms, keep a fire blanket and extinguisher to hand and don't set prints running when I know I won't be home. That is before we look at the specifics of certain printers that seem to ship with faults or less than ideal components.
Yep, had 1 of 20ish wires in my cable chain go bad with very little external indication where it was. Fun to chase down.
Grant always making the best 3d printing videos of the week 😁
Great vid guys!!! Keep making awesome!!🤘🤘
Thanks man! We miss you in the server ;)
Times are really hard this holiday season. My surgery has really f'ed up a lot of things financially. Miss you guys too! Happy New Years! Say "What's up!" top everyone for me and, especially MADCAT.
@16:00 is why I am against people printing X or Y cable chains, but do nothing to upgrade the wiring that is flexible enough to be contained in a cable chain. Your average printer wiring will either work harden like shown, be bent at a higher angle than if not in a chain and result in issues over time, or simply the chain rub the wiring and wear off through the sheathing and risk shorts. Z axis move so slow and in small increments in comparison that it many times can be chained without risk, but XY movement can very quickly wear out wiring. Proper wiring made for cable chains has a more silcone inclusive sheathing and usually higher strand count to handle the flex and wear of the chain friction.
6:05 also check the nozzle is clean before starting print. Had a similar issue with Voron Tap where the first few probe points (bottom left) would be way off from rest of points due to a tiny bit of plastic on nozzle that would knock/fall off after a few probe points.
ah, good point!
Ahhh my clip raised its head once more a year later! 😂👍🏻
Figured you would enjoy it!
@@3DMusketeers oh yeas!
I have a Kobra 3 and I have observed that the Hotend wires (Black) are rubbing against the screw holding the part cooling nozzel in place on the inside of the cover showing black dust and damage on the cable to the nozzel.
This would have short circuited the hotend if not rectified.
Quickly sorted with some electric tape covering the screw.
is that sovol mess PLA? Because there's literally a sticker in the image that says, 'Open door when printing PLA
not sure. but that is not a heat creep issue
Hiya Grant,
I think the problem on the Sovol SV08 could be that the part wrapped at the front left corner. It looks like the part lifted up there.
I had the cable problem with the canbus cable of a BTT SB2209. I used the included cable in my drag chains. After just ~100h of printing on my Voron V2 the prints were stopping at different heights. After some painstaking tests, I found out the error happened at roughly the same X-Y position. I took the cable out, dissected it and found out the CanL cable was broken inside the insulator. Now my V2 runs with an Ölflex cable and no problems whatsoever. I will never use an included canbus cable of any canboard in the future again. I don't know why the factories of can boards do not include a high quality cable in their kits, as I would gladly pay more for a kit with an Ölflex or other branded cable which is certified to run in cable chains. The whole troubleshooting to so long and costs more than to pay for an upgrade for the proper cable. 100m of Ölflex cable are ~95€ which would result in added ~4€ bare costs to the can kit. even if the factory would double the price of it to let's say 10€ additional cost, I would gladly pay for it. Unfortunately even after raising the issue on discord with BTT, there is not even a warning not to use their cable in drag chains, not in the manual nor on the biqu product page, as I suggested to them.
Props to the editor for the Jurassic Park clip. :*Chef's kiss*:
Hmm,I have AnyCubic Kobra 2 Neo. Default PLA settings is only 190c. Maybe they lowered it because of this issue?
Yeah, as a owner of the Kobra 3, I still can't recommend it. It's inconsistent and they are still working out the bugs almost 6 months later.
Leaky hotend, Bad firmwares, Horrible Cable Management setup, Z Rod Coupler Rubbing, Bad Wiring, and Z-Offset not saving.
Just Spend the Extra Money and Get the A1 combo that the Kobra is Copying from anyway.
Can just agree, should have gone for the A1 as well.
The burnt up part, are you trying to print a carburetor?
kinda looks like it, lol
I did get the new PP bed in yesterday. Looking forward to that. It's for PP and also apparently TPU.
would check under build plate nothing stuck on magnet that is lifting build plate
For the cable inside the drag chain... the best thing is to replace the cable itself or the full wire assembly. But you would need the extraction tool for the pins so the connector does not get damaged. Tbh buying a new cable assembly would be my option, if I would not have decided to go CANbus now.
And for everyone who might think soldering would be ok. No. Don't solder such broken cables which move a lot. They will fail 100%, and they will fail sooner than later.
yup! I would replace the whole loom too!
I was testing the mk3.5 + mmu3 combo. It was going good until the purge tower fell off. That's what I get for printing on a bed I haven't cleaned at all in at least 6 months. lol
I've been wiping my mk4's bed with just some dry toilet paper, for almost a year now ...
Maybe it's time I give it a decent wipe 😂
My experience with the SV07's at least. they are perfectly fine until you fall asleep.
then all hell breaks loose. usually, by my reconng, about 20 minutes after you are out for the night
Make sure you use motion system rated wires/cables.
The issue with any cubic it that their therrmal protection settings are unknown. They don't let you access the firmware settings on the kobra 2 pro, max, and plus. My kobra 2 pro doesn't off the bed nor hotend during preheat at all forafter an extended period of time. I don't know if the kobra 3 are having the same problems, after seeing these issue, I'm not buying anything from any cubic without an open source firmware.
Anycubic as a company doesn't fix their problems, they just release a new 3d printer a year later with even more problems. They also rush their products to the market with a ton of issues.
They got silicone ones that outperformed the metal splash guards all day
What do you think about kitchen organizers using 3D-printers? It feels a bit uncomfortable using PETG for that. Dichloromethane would give a bit more peace of mind, but still a bit concerning regarding the creation of a surface, which is perfect for bacteria. PP might be the alternative, but I am still unsure.
Dichloromethane is too dangerous IMO (says the guy that uses it all the time...)
PP is definitely an alternative but layer lines are still the issue. TECHNICALLY I would think that if it is always dry it SHOULD be fine, but I am not a scientist. you could always coat it a bit in epoxy or something but that of course removes the print and go fun of 3d printing...
@@3DMusketeers Do you apply dichloromethane using a brush?
syringe and blunt tip needle for my use cases. Using it as a thin chemical adhesive. Taking as many precautions as I can.
@@3DMusketeers Have you tried it to remove layer lines? A friend of mine tried doing that for a PLA toy using a brush, and it was a success. Still, I hesitate to use it even though I have a MILLA mask with an A2 filter.
cable fails; one of my printers started to develop a thermister fault with instant shutdown (fortunately) every time it ran more than 4 inches above the bed.
@#$%$ ribbon cables. After receiving my replacement printer, I ended up carefully setting up the ribbon cable path to spread the flex across the entire cable as much as possible. zip ties in the right places (some intentionally very loose).
With multiple printers myself, I am kinda disappointed with the overall negative views on the kobra 3. I also have 2 bambus, another kobra 2 and 2 crealitys. It does scare me that there have been a couple fire posts I’ve seen, but actual print quality I’ve had nothing but good luck. Have had more issues with my p1p than either of my anycubics. But I guess it just shows that each person is different and it can majorly vary machine to machine.
definitely some variability. Keep an eye on those wires and connectors though.
I have to side with Grant on this.
First one has GOT to be bait 😅
this may be the hot end anycubic kobra 3 nozzle leaking
Announcement Regarding Free Replacement of the Quick- ...Anycubic
21 Aug 2024 - If your device has experienced filament leakage at the hotend, please see the images below for reference.
Did Anycubic use the same factory as QidiTech used for the X-Plus 4? *ba dun thiss*
Grant, you don't need no stinkin' hard hat (with your hard head, lol)
That's what I am told at least!
Anycubic... kobra 2... my first printer.... was returned because shorted itself with melted bed cables but support sent me a bed replacement... but yeah the mainboard was dead so... I have a kobra 2 bed for free and they refund me the printer.... never china printer again.
Qidi q1 pro no problem at all…
I'm just going to be "that guy" and say that if you cook bacon in a teflon coated pan you don't deserve bacon. Cast iron for the win. If grandma could cook in cast iron and not have it stick you can too. Bonus points for cast iron being non-toxic.
For the anycubic kobra 3 fire, I wouldn't be the least bit shocked if it was one of the early ones that has the defective nozzle. Many of them are getting HORRIBLE blobs and if they aren't caught in time...well you can see the result. Oddly enough their solution seems to be to GLUE the nozzle into the hotend. Lots of complaints on r/anycubicoffical. Methinks that anycubic will be facing a similar public relations issue as Qidi did. If they were smart they'd just send out replacement re-engineered hotends to every owner AND include one with every new sale PLUS stop selling them until they replace them in EVERY one they still have in the warehouses. But this is exactly why I will NEVER be an early adopter for ANY product. I say let the suckers jump in the front of the line and pay to be beta testers. I'll consider buying once they've come out with the second, or even third, revision.
Microwave is the way to cook Bacon ;)
I too enjoy the love of cast iron from time to time, however the convenience factor of non stick CAN be nice. Depends on how much time I have or if I have not abused the cast iron somehow accidentally...
Stainless steel...
I always seem to get the temp wrong on stainless, but that is 100% operator error lol
@@3DMusketeers I still have, and use, my grandma's cast iron skillet she got as a wedding present from her mother-in-law in 1936. the ONLY teflon I own is the bowden tubes in my parts bin. 😁😁
happy new year!
You as well!
i have a kobra 3 and im local to you lol
We should chat... Send me a DM or just text the shop number.
@@3DMusketeers i messaged you on facebook.