Thanks Chris, I am primarily a model ship builder and started this as a bit of a change while I was waiting for some timber, blocks etc. I thought it would be a quick easy little project as it is a kit and I am primarily a scratch builder. Far from it as you know, but I am enjoying it anyway and I never like to abandon a project half done. I did take a break while I finished off a ship project but I am back to it now. Your videos are very informative and I have learn some new techniques. The super glue procedure for example - but it works well here. By the way I am a Queenslander as well - we live in Brisbane. Cheers, John
Hi John, I find most of the timber kits from Artesania can be quite challenging at times due to language interpretation and assumed knowledge. I did a lot of scratch building in my youth but don't really get time at the moment but will certainly drift back to it in retirement. I'm happy to hear my videos are an aid to your building and as I'm sure you know, it takes quite some time to coordinate all the works for decent video footage. I'm up near Noosa.
Hi Indalezio and a happy new year to you also. Took me longer than I thought to complete this video as I had to purchase a new soldering iron to bend the external timber covering but got there in the end once the shops re-opened.
Chris I led you in the wrong way you misunderstood I did not mean I would have right behind you with the bill I'm following you closely on the videos learning from you. You would not believe what I did I lost the whole brass fret somewhere in my hobby room in the process now trying to replace it with the company wish me luck
Hi Bil, try your local hobby shops, Amazon, etc. see if you can locate K&S as they supply brass rod in various diameters that just might get you out of trouble.
Super idea to coat the surface with Superglue as it holds in the fibers beside binding the pieces together. I think you did it the same way as me and hopefully, we have thought the same. I sanded first and before dusting off I placed the superglue. The reason for this way was I believe is to catch the sawdust in those little nooks and crannies and when the superglue was applied this bound the sawdust to the superglue and the slates for want of a better word. It has seemed to work very well on my end as it appears to do so on your end. One thing I could not do is apply the superglue to the framework then apply the slates in a series as the glue went off as you may understand Superglue and heat work well together and so it was one slate at a time and it took a while but is how I guess you manage the model build. Cheers
Hi Gary. Yep, you hit it exactly as I did. Leaving a small amount of wood dust and even pushing some into the larger voids as you superglue is great way to go. I use the thin superglue here so it soaks into the fibres and such. I use the thick superglue for the planking to increase the working time. I’m in QLD so humidity is my nemesis with the glue kicking off too soon.
I am thoroughly enjoying your videos. I scratch build models of horse drawn vehicles from pre- existing plans but mostly from actual vehicles I have photographed and done drawings in 1/8th scale. I have learnt new techniques and tools from your videos. Keep it coming. What woods are in the kit?
Hi Brian and thank you for your comment. I have also scratch build wooden models but mainly scale planes, a few small boats and a bit of carving. I have been researching to locate scale plans for horse drawn vehicles to scratch build but have not really found any great resources as yet. I would greatly appreciate any links or contacts you would be willing to share if interested as I'm finding resources to this material here in Australia is quite limited. The main woods supplied with the Artesania kits are as follows: Walnut, Sapelly, Basswood, Boxwood & Plywood. In my scratch builds and carving I have used Huon Pine, Blackwood, Sassafras, Myrtle, Walnut, Celery Top Pine, White Cypress and various furniture grade plywoods.
@@chrisoxford8442 Chris, I was secretary to the Guild of model Wheelwrights until it was dissolved 2 years ago. However, we decided to keep the website going and the plans service. If go to the www.guildofmodelwheelwrights.org and click on the PLANS tab you will find around 200 sets of plans available for horse drawn vehicles. The plans are free but we do ask for a donation to help with admin. You need to contact John Castle (his email address is on the website). When you decide what you need he will send the plans as an attachment to an email. If you have Photoshop and look at the image size it will tell you what to get them printed out as to retain the scale. John will explain if you ask him.
Hi Brain, thank you for the contact and link to the guild. I will be certainly contacting John and donating to the guild. What an amazing resource that should not be lost or forgotten.
Hi Bob, thank you for your comment. I don’t use a sanding sealer but normally sand to approx 1000 grit paper then 2 coats of danish oil. I let that sit for a few days then a light sand and one more coat of danish oil. Gap filling depends on the timber and size of the gaps. I’ll often just go with sanding dust and superglue as the danish oil does an excellent job of covering the colour transitions between the glue and the timber. If it’s a larger gap I’ll use micro balloons and thick superglue or epoxy or timber dust and epoxy or even good old timber filler like Timbermate or Selleys plastic wood
No worries Bob, we were all rookies at some stage. I don’t have all the answers but happy to share all I can. Sanding sealer has its place and use but I find it hides the timber grain too much sometimes in this kits. I like danish oil as it soaks into the timber and helps to harden it somewhat while not completely hiding the gain marks and small imperfections in a model like this.
Very nice work Chris! I’ve been following your work closely and you’ve been a big help to my build. I was wondering why you are coating the outside surface with super glue? I’ve been debating whether or not to do the same to mine. I am also finishing with Danish oil. Is there any downside to the super glue coating? I’m looking forward to some new videos once your editing equipment is fixed!
Hi Dave. I have been completing a bit on the coach today so more video to come. The thin superglue helps to fill all the tiny imperfections and glues the strips horizontally to each other. This stops the strips moving when sanding and create an awesome finish. It’s a technique I have used for years and in my opinion a great way to stabilise the grain etc. I have never found a downside other than it’s a little messy and don’t glue your fingers :)
Hi John, I have a few Danish oils but the one I'm using for the coach is Behlen Master Danish Oil, colour is natural B700-1506. Been in my finishes box for many years. Not sure if its still available. The Cabots danish oil should be fine though. I have not tried adding stains to danish oil, but I guess if the base solvents are the same then why not give it a try.
Yeah, hi, this is James over here in Iowa I'm trying to find a college set of prints from the 1848 stage coach. I have no idea where to get him one I bought came with the DVD I guess and it's worthless so if you have any suggestions, let me know.
Thanks Chris,
I am primarily a model ship builder and started this as a bit of a change while I was waiting for some timber, blocks etc. I thought it would be a quick easy little project as it is a kit and I am primarily a scratch builder. Far from it as you know, but I am enjoying it anyway and I never like to abandon a project half done. I did take a break while I finished off a ship project but I am back to it now. Your videos are very informative and I have learn some new techniques. The super glue procedure for example - but it works well here.
By the way I am a Queenslander as well - we live in Brisbane.
Cheers,
John
Hi John, I find most of the timber kits from Artesania can be quite challenging at times due to language interpretation and assumed knowledge. I did a lot of scratch building in my youth but don't really get time at the moment but will certainly drift back to it in retirement. I'm happy to hear my videos are an aid to your building and as I'm sure you know, it takes quite some time to coordinate all the works for decent video footage.
I'm up near Noosa.
👌👌👌esperando el siguiente paso,trabajo muy fino.Gracias por compartir
Gracias por las amables palabras. Llegando lentamente a la meta de este proyecto.
💪💪💪
Nice work. Its coming along nicely.
Thank you Joseph. I’m very happy with the progress so far
Happy New Year, friend, I am very happy that you have returned with a new and surely a very good video like all the previous ones. Cheers
Hi Indalezio and a happy new year to you also. Took me longer than I thought to complete this video as I had to purchase a new soldering iron to bend the external timber covering but got there in the end once the shops re-opened.
Thank you Chris we're right behind you sir
Hi Bil, wow, you have really been pushing hard. Although to be fair, I have been pacing myself as I have been a little time poor with my hobbies.
Chris I led you in the wrong way you misunderstood I did not mean I would have right behind you with the bill I'm following you closely on the videos learning from you. You would not believe what I did I lost the whole brass fret somewhere in my hobby room in the process now trying to replace it with the company wish me luck
Hi Bil, try your local hobby shops, Amazon, etc. see if you can locate K&S as they supply brass rod in various diameters that just might get you out of trouble.
Mi piace
Super idea to coat the surface with Superglue as it holds in the fibers beside binding the pieces together. I think you did it the same way as me and hopefully, we have thought the same. I sanded first and before dusting off I placed the superglue. The reason for this way was I believe is to catch the sawdust in those little nooks and crannies and when the superglue was applied this bound the sawdust to the superglue and the slates for want of a better word. It has seemed to work very well on my end as it appears to do so on your end.
One thing I could not do is apply the superglue to the framework then apply the slates in a series as the glue went off as you may understand Superglue and heat work well together and so it was one slate at a time and it took a while but is how I guess you manage the model build.
Cheers
Hi Gary. Yep, you hit it exactly as I did. Leaving a small amount of wood dust and even pushing some into the larger voids as you superglue is great way to go. I use the thin superglue here so it soaks into the fibres and such. I use the thick superglue for the planking to increase the working time. I’m in QLD so humidity is my nemesis with the glue kicking off too soon.
Yes and top of this I will apply it to the other walls as well. It cleans up very nicely to a very fine smooth finish
I am thoroughly enjoying your videos. I scratch build models of horse drawn vehicles from pre- existing plans but mostly from actual vehicles I have photographed and done drawings in 1/8th scale. I have learnt new techniques and tools from your videos. Keep it coming. What woods are in the kit?
Hi Brian and thank you for your comment. I have also scratch build wooden models but mainly scale planes, a few small boats and a bit of carving. I have been researching to locate scale plans for horse drawn vehicles to scratch build but have not really found any great resources as yet. I would greatly appreciate any links or contacts you would be willing to share if interested as I'm finding resources to this material here in Australia is quite limited.
The main woods supplied with the Artesania kits are as follows:
Walnut, Sapelly, Basswood, Boxwood & Plywood.
In my scratch builds and carving I have used Huon Pine, Blackwood, Sassafras, Myrtle, Walnut, Celery Top Pine, White Cypress and various furniture grade plywoods.
@@chrisoxford8442 Chris, I was secretary to the Guild of model Wheelwrights until it was dissolved 2 years ago. However, we decided to keep the website going and the plans service. If go to the www.guildofmodelwheelwrights.org and click on the PLANS tab you will find around 200 sets of plans available for horse drawn vehicles. The plans are free but we do ask for a donation to help with admin. You need to contact John Castle (his email address is on the website). When you decide what you need he will send the plans as an attachment to an email. If you have Photoshop and look at the image size it will tell you what to get them printed out as to retain the scale. John will explain if you ask him.
Hi Brain, thank you for the contact and link to the guild. I will be certainly contacting John and donating to the guild. What an amazing resource that should not be lost or forgotten.
Thanks again Chris. As usual, it's looking great. What
are you using as a gap filler and do you use a sanding sealer? Can't wait to get mine going...
Hi Bob, thank you for your comment. I don’t use a sanding sealer but normally sand to approx 1000 grit paper then 2 coats of danish oil. I let that sit for a few days then a light sand and one more coat of danish oil. Gap filling depends on the timber and size of the gaps. I’ll often just go with sanding dust and superglue as the danish oil does an excellent job of covering the colour transitions between the glue and the timber. If it’s a larger gap I’ll use micro balloons and thick superglue or epoxy or timber dust and epoxy or even good old timber filler like Timbermate or Selleys plastic wood
Good Info for a rookie... Thanks Chris.
No worries Bob, we were all rookies at some stage. I don’t have all the answers but happy to share all I can. Sanding sealer has its place and use but I find it hides the timber grain too much sometimes in this kits. I like danish oil as it soaks into the timber and helps to harden it somewhat while not completely hiding the gain marks and small imperfections in a model like this.
Very nice work Chris! I’ve been following your work closely and you’ve been a big help to my build. I was wondering why you are coating the outside surface with super glue? I’ve been debating whether or not to do the same to mine. I am also finishing with Danish oil. Is there any downside to the super glue coating? I’m looking forward to some new videos once your editing equipment is fixed!
Hi Dave. I have been completing a bit on the coach today so more video to come. The thin superglue helps to fill all the tiny imperfections and glues the strips horizontally to each other. This stops the strips moving when sanding and create an awesome finish. It’s a technique I have used for years and in my opinion a great way to stabilise the grain etc. I have never found a downside other than it’s a little messy and don’t glue your fingers :)
Chris,
Your Danish Oil looks much darker than mine which is Cabots. What brand are you using and are you adding a stain to darken it?
Hi John, I have a few Danish oils but the one I'm using for the coach is Behlen Master Danish Oil, colour is natural B700-1506. Been in my finishes box for many years. Not sure if its still available. The Cabots danish oil should be fine though. I have not tried adding stains to danish oil, but I guess if the base solvents are the same then why not give it a try.
Yeah, hi, this is James over here in Iowa I'm trying to find a college set of prints from the 1848 stage coach. I have no idea where to get him one I bought came with the DVD I guess and it's worthless so if you have any suggestions, let me know.
Hi James, try Alamy or Getty images. www.alamy.com/stock-photo/stage-coach-historical.html
This version of the kit is a lot different then the one I built. Mine was much simpler. I bought mine second hand off eBay.
I guess over the years Artesania Latina changed the kit about somewhat.