How to build a bowl - skate park or ramp
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- Опубліковано 3 чер 2024
- Building a skateboard ramp bowl is one of the best things to skate. But, they've very tricky to construct. Watch as we have a step by step process of how to build your bowl by using the proper drills, saws and wooden materials.
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18:28 There is a science behind it, or rather geometry. Cartographers have been dealing with this issue for centuries. Nice work 🤘
this is absolutely insane. I now have a new found respect for anyone who has completed this project.
This makes me appreciate the bowl at the indoor park 1000x more. Looks like an insanely hard job. Good job to you guys and THANK YOU for sharing your wisdom!
Great carpentry. Impressive use of the skill saw on those ribs. Really beautiful results. I just wonder how cost compares to concrete in 2024.
Man Tyler is a great thorough speaker and teacher. A lot of times with tutorials of any kind skating or not they have a hard time communicating. Big ups to Tyler.
Saying that.. Is he related to the ActionLab guy? Sounds just like him haha.
So awesome ! Thanks for making this video bro ! Amazing. I’m a mechanic I work on airplanes and I always had Pro Dreams but life threw me some curveballs . I still skate at 51 . That’s a lot of work man ! Looks great !
Wooden Bowl Corners have always boggled my brain. This helps a little. I'm curios about zero layers overlapping from the ramps to the pocket. Seems a little like a point for weakness and offset over time.
For the people who are on a budget, i made a mini bowl (1meter height) and i could get 4 vertical rib sections out of one sheet of plywood! its on instructables if you're interested...
Had no idea how many internet carpenters there were out there 😂
wooden bowl corners...the apex of park building skill
How does drainage work on this bad boy?
Looks great getting into it now
You guys have CNC machines! Just cut slots into the supporting transition walls and then insert horizontal supports cut out from thick plwood. No 4by2s, just plywood supports and attach the pizza slices onto the plywood supports. Once designed and cut you can use the same file for all of your next builds. One corner assembly time around 1 hour + surfacing.
Wait what's a CNC Machine?
Thank you for uploading this video, it helps me to work : )
Thank you so, so much for this video!🙏🤘
I am turning our miniramp into a wooden bowl with a vert high end. Been following your instructions worked great thank you. The frame is all built even threw in a hip.
Now I need to sheet the corners. The one thing that I can't figure out is how to stagger the screws across 2 layers of ply and one pre-drilled top layer in such a tight space. Used 50mm/2" horizontal offsets for all 3 layers on the mini ramp parts.
Do you stagger vertically? Risky to miss the 2x6s. Any feedback appreciated 😁
I’ve been a carpenter for 10 years and I haven’t seen a power saw that can cut a curve like that, usually we use jigsaws for stuff like that.
What is that power saw called? And is it just a US thing?
There are ways to plan and measure every single cut made here. It’s not straight forward but can be done without any guess work at all
Teach us the ways
Pretty freakin clean!
Wow! this is badass! Always wondered how to get the relief curve in the 2x6 that's so ingenious cause it's (close to) just a part of a sphere. I would assume when putting down ply you screw the centre first? If you do the sides then centre it can't pull back against the ramp or will shift as it bends? Thanks for the wisdom.
I haven't done one of these but I'd like to. It seems to me though, you could work out the geometry for the positions of the upright plywood and all the sizes of the 2x6's beforehand and use a template for the radius of the cuts instead of measuring and cut every one custom. Like I said, I haven't done one so I don't know but I kinda nerd out on geometry when I design ramps and I feel like it could be used here too.
Schools should teach this in geometry. I think we'd all pay A LOT more attention. :)
@@OCRamps I know, right!? I failed geometry in high school but I use it all the time now but I wish they taught it like this.
Thank you so much for this! Scribing the 2x4 on the transition plywood made me yell excitedly. I assumed the horizontal radius was somehow different from the vertical one. I guess it could be if you were connecting two quarter pipes that each have different radiuses? How do you determine the bend for the coping? Cardboard template?
Tyler here, thanks Tyler 💪🏻
😆🤘
Thanks for a great video mate. Can I ask what type of plywood you use and what is the gator skin? 👌
what is second layer material?
What transition radius did you use on this ramp?
This is awesome!! Thanks for going over this stuff. Question; how do you determine your bevel cuts on the ribs near the bottom of the ramps?
Its literally trial and error. You'll end up making a million cuts to get it right at first.
@@OCRamps When i built my first hip with a rounded transition on the bottom for smooth runs I used a template for each bevel / angle cut. I’m going to try the same thing on this one if it ever stops raining here in Long Island. Thanks again.
I am on my second build - for the ribs in the corners I built a jig - I used a piece of 1/4 inch plywood 2 1/2 inches by 30 inches - I used a router to put a slot in the center of that strip - then on each end added a piece 2 1/5 inch by 8 inches and attached them with wing nut screws so I can slide and adjust and set an angle (think of an adjustable bevel square at each end). Just place the long piece across the top of the transition at the 8 inch rib marks - adjust the end pieces on the jog to match the inside of the transitions on both sides…then you can just lay that on top of a uncut rib and BOOM - cut at those marks and your rib fits perfect every time - no more [“trial and error”] - also on the decking - use thick Ram board and a sharp utility knife - lay the paper in the section you are measuring - hold it in place with a couple of staples - cut it with the utility knife - lay that on your decking to mark where to cut - BOOM again no more trial and error - I have found this little bit of effort on the front end saves hours on the back end - every time you have to trim you are wasting time…
Do you sell the CNC files (of the transitions) too?
How do you manage drainage?
How many foot radius are your transitions? On a 2ft ramp and 3ft ramp?
If you place your transitions very close together and attach 2x4's on the sides of them following the radius from bottom to top you can skip making all those
miter cuts on the ribs. This way your plywood can be screwed directly to the transitions with no need for the ribs except at the top where the coping is mounted.
Con more radius pieces $$ pros less cuts and headache ?
@@pittbully420 Exactly
Not only that but the wieght of it..wow
Whats the saw called you use to cut the radius into the support struts?
He’s using a skill saw, lifting it up and down to get the curve….
I would want one in my backyard but they are so much money
that radious cut tho - enough to be dangerous forsure.
How much did it cost
hello thank you for this video . I suggest that you instead of make 1 corner piece at a time you measure and make the one then copy it 16 times . each corner for each place should be exactly the same size and angle .
Yea but there are minor differences. Best do dial in ea one perfect at a time.
Build this for me
Build this for me!!!!
We'd be happy to! :)
@@OCRamps how much? Estimate?
If each "panel" is the same distance on each corner,why can you duplicate the 2x6's on the corners?...say each corner panel is 1' apart and you have for corner panels,you should be able to duplicate that on all four corners..hope that makes sence..kinda hard to explain without being there or drawing it out
I’m planning a backyard bowl build and now I’m starting to second guess if I want pockets or not😂
are you guys selling these now?
Yes, we've always offered custom ramps. You can see our bowl projects on our site (in gallery and blog).
@@OCRamps nice! Would you come down to FL or where are you based?
Yes, we go to FL often. Going to Tampa next weekend. We built a rad bowl in West Palm Beach - photos and blog on the website.
@@OCRamps maybe you could make the bowl in the video a product that’s already cut up ready to drill just like the other ramps
That's a perfect backyard!
So SIck
Your showed you level of skill when talking about hardware. Sorry but your wrong. Structurally nails are far strong. All wood has a large amount of shrinking and expansion and movement. Nails can move with the wood. When using the correct nails they will not back out. Even the wrong screw can back out. But over time screws break and become weak. Thru plywood screws are ok. But lumber to plywood both are ok as long as there the correct on. But nails in the frame work is a smarter choice if there the right designed nails. It here a reason that construction it is code that the framing has to be nailed for a reason.
You're not framing an indoor sub-floor with nails -- this is an outdoor skateboard ramp facing outdoor elements. After building hundreds of thousands of outdoor skateboard ramps over the last 20+ years, our experience proves screws for framing is essential. Don't take our word for it, you're welcome to use nails on your own ramp and see how to does in a decade.
@@OCRamps Fun fact you talk about outdoors well roofs are made outdoors too but you never use a screws on a roof its very bad they break. Also 20+ years dosent make an expert we learn something new our entire life.
unreal, straight up THPS create-a-park in real life
Mine works too. I used the Woodglut plans and performed it without any problems.