It's so hard to watch this 8 years later now that the R700 with bull barrel 1:10 twist and 5R rifling comes in a fully free floated Magpul hunter stock (full aluminum block) with detachable box magazine that fits AI mags. You went through a lot of effort to do all this, which is greatly appreciated. Now they make the budget precision rifle (even comes with enlarged bolt handle) straight from the factory. It's surprising it took Remington this long to offer that model though.
I listen and like a lot of firearms channels. But, I really like this guy. He is always prepared. No BS. Extremely pleasant voice/narration. Quite knowledgeable. He takes the time to answer questions (in the comments section) which is fairly rare for a channel that churns out so many videos. He gives opinions sure. But his opinions are carefully measured. He gives both the pros and the cons of items and procedures. I bet he is a pretty nice guy too. We need more guys/channels like this.
you get so many comments, i hope you get to read this one. i followed your directions on shimming and floating the stock with the aluminum shims..(Remington 700 26") Burris scope, Hornady match, i shot a 7/8 " group, all holes touching . this was such a thrill, i have never even shot SUB MOA in my life. I think the fact that you gave all of the torque values, and i followed what you said to a "T" really helped. i don't know if many people thank you, but, "THANK YOU!" keep up the good work.!!
Good video! I just took a dremel to mine to take out about 1/8 inch under the front of the barrel and went from shot gun groups to 1/2 inch at 100 yards. Mine was so flimsy that even the tiniest amount if weight on the stock would make it touch the barrel.
I did a similar build last month with the B&C Tactical/varmant stock and added a Wyatts DM as well. I'm geting .5 MOA groups and love it. $1400 build not including my NF NXS 3.5 - 15 X50, and Trijicon Accupoint 20 MOA base. Uber happy with it. Thanks for sharing the vids.
great video. I'm glad that the bell carlson stock is direct bolt in. Waiting on mine right now in the mail. Thanks for a good review of it and install. Thumbs up! Love the vids!
Thank you for clearing that up for me. I shimmed the stock on my 700 SPS Tactical yesterday, along with my buddies 700 SPS Varmit. We'll be going out later today and I'm excited to see how this will affect my accuracy (hopefully in a positive manner).!!
And you were right. It groups at 15mm at 100 meters just by dropping the action into the stock. The hougestock/tactical also provides a VERY gentle recoil. Cant wait to get the silencer on this. I expect it to be not far away from a .22 actually :) By the way: in Norway we dont need any licenses to purchase silencers. How nice isnt that? :)
Bell and Carlson stocks are very well made. The accuracy improvement however depends on how the surfaces of the action mate with the active surfaces of any rifle stock including this one. I am about to order this same B&C stock for my Howa 1500 Mini action and will for sure further perform a bedding process to have maximum contact between the two parts leaving no room for axial, lateral or vertical creep. Regardless, you have made a very well video to show how things work young man and you show your advanced knowledge of the subject matter. Thanks a whole lot for the effort you put in to show and tell us...
for a windy day at the range the sound is real clear props to you btw I loved that video series i'd love this rifle but maybe remington 700 R5 is the way to go im not sure which one to get
Question 4..... I installed my B&C VAR/TAC will minimal issues. I took it out for the first time and shot some great 1/2 min groups at 100. Feeling confident I went to 200 off bipod. Let's just say ouch.... It was humbling to say the least. I attribute most of buckshot to my own cherriness but when I came home, I noticed rubbing spots where the bolt handle lays on the stock. Also, up around the end of the stock itself I can see rubbing spots on the barrel. Dremel tool?
OMG. This is a great vid. I hope you do many more different kinds of rifles. I want to see some savage 10fp and see if their stock is worth enough to compair with good stocks
You have a lot more patience than me. I wouldn't wait for the receiver and bedding block "to mate over time." I'd cut to the chase and bed that action.
After I dropped my AAC-SD into this stock and torqued it down to 65 in-lb (with the Borka) it seems to be shooting even worse than with the Hogue (2-3in groups). Followed all the steps and am worried something is wrong with the stock, but don't know how to even tell if that's the problem. Any advice?
I'm following this build myself and I have a question about using a bipod with this stock, on mine when I mount the bipod on the first stud (closest to end of barrel), it appears it is not entirely free floated because i cannot slide a piece of paper around the barrel and down the stock. I currently have it mounted on the second stud and the paper will fit. Have you had a similar observation on your's? It could just be than the gap is thinner than the paper but I like to be sure. love the vids.
I alum shimed a Bushnell scope on a Remy 581 because I used low rings, and even though I removed the rear sight, the obj was still touching the metal blank that sits over rear sight opening. I used rubber cement to hold the shims in the bttm of both rings. Rubber cement I figure dries to just boogers, they'll heat up on a hot day and shrink on a cold day possibly, but not sure its going to mess with accuracy under 75yds with a 22lr. I eventually plan on getting a little better scope, and probably little taller rings, but love the really low scope mounting now. I had to modify the crapy scope covers by cutting a notch in lower part of front one to actually slide it over the rear sight bridge!
I just picked up an AAC-SD. I have a standard SPS that's a pretty good shooter without much work. I think I may drop the AAC into a Manners stock with a pillar over glass bed job just to see what she'll do. The standard SPS will probably go into a XLR Industries stock and be re-barreled to 6.5X47 Lapua.
I've been looking for the Orca torque wrench and I can't find it.Could you say where you got it again? Thanks great tips,Ive already finished the base bedding. I know that tis rifle isnt what most people would use for a deer rifle with the weight and all. But I could only afford one rifle,would you recommend a stock I could use as an all around use stock? Thank you!!
I just looked it up, and I see I was looking at different stocks. I had been looking at the adjustable version for myself, which is $450. The $240 one with a $60 Karsten riser is a pretty dang good setup for under $300. Thanks for the correction. It's embarrassing being wrong.
i got a hogue stock with my howa1500 in 308. initially due to my barrel being a heavy, the forend of the stock was totally inadequate to support the weight without contact. i also found the pillar bedding to be poor, resulting in my first groups being about 5moa+. since i could not afford a new stock initially, i bedded the action, re enforced the forend with fibreglass, 3d printed a cheek riser and 1 inch extension to the rear shoulder pad (also raising the shoulder pad 1 inch to lign up with scope and reduce recoil jump.). I then shaved as much of the rubber overmold from around the grip and trigger , action to barrel till there was almost 1/2 an inch gap in some places. last time i went shooting it was 0.8MOA on a windy day with 2 rounds using the hogue stock, no fliers, no split groups....... but to be honest, im pretty sure the barreled action can shoot sub 1/2 inch with a good stock where the action bedding doesnt flex with recoil and the hogue still feels like im sholding a broomstick. great experience hacking at a cheap stock to learn what works and what doesnt, but as far as stocks go for quality, i cant understand why hogue would even bother to make a stock that poor.
Does the bell and carlson stock allow for the barrel to be free floated and bedded? I am looking at getting a r700 but the stocks throw me off a little. But if I got one of these B and C stocks I would be happy
Great videos! Thanks! I'm considering a new stock for my AAC. Could you offer some advice if I should get more famous b&c medalist with the hook or the choate tactical (not the other models) thanks!
John... if I'd gone a little further in the vid I would have seen that you specified 65 inch pounds on the receiver screws on the B&C.. Did you set the Hogue at the same specs....?
How hard would it be to mate the action to bedding bock with some lapping compound? I am also skeptical of factory crowns Couldn't hurt to crown the muzzle.
I recently bought a Rem 700P (26in). I believe it comes with an HS Precision stock. Do you think I should have the action removed re bedded on this rifle?
Thanks you! I did that and don't see any cracks. I loosened it to 55. Are the imprints on the bolt lugs normal? That was the part that really worried me. Thanks again! (Is there another way to ask you questions besides the comment section of your videos?)
What kind of damage will the stress caused by shimming be for the action, if any? I would like to do this until I can get a new stock or chassis system.
Do you think that Bell and Carlson stock is worth it? Or should i spend an extra $100 and get an HS Precision? I have the Hogue stock and the rifle shoots like shit off the bipod, but it does shoot ok if i sandbag the rifle under the action so Im not expecting awesome groups I just want more consistancy when shooting form a bi-pod. Gun is an SPS Tactical .223 used for coyote hunting but i would also like to use it as my beginnings into long range shooting. Then someday upgrade to a .308
First of all thank you for your videos. I have this exact rifle. I noticed the same thing with accuracy. WAS shooting moly coated bullets (1/4 moa). But not any more. Can you tell me the model of the stock, that style is similar and really cool to the original? Also what is the brand/model of the in/lb torque wrench you use?
I have remington 700 vtr and it has 2 pressure points at the end of the stock. would you recommend sanding them off or just wait until I have enough to purchase a b&c
Hehe, i have an ADL that i wanted to get another stock for. I bought a used Hougestock as u present and the barrell does not touch the stock at all. I do not have the varmint/bull barrell or what you call them. My question is: should i still bed the action into the stock? (Havent fired the rifle yet) Thanks for these informative videos btw, i would have mounted the picatinnyrail without checking the pints you mentioned :)
Hi John, thanks for the great videos! I am building a long range hunting/ occasional target rifle. I like the Bell and Carlson M40 style stock like you mounted in this video, but i was wondering if the forend might be too short for a proper balance with a 29-30" finished length barrel. If so, what stock would you recommend? Remmy 700 LA by the way, Thanks again, RD
i like how your stock looks so nice on the bedding block. mine looks like shit. the rear mounting hole has gouges out of the aluminum and a bunch of overspray. next to the barrel channel theres a crater that looks like crap. i called bell and carlson and they told me i could send it in but it would be about a 6 month wait. ugh so mad!
Aluminium can is .12 of a mil , by four is .48 of a mil so just under half mil in height at the bolt which I'm thinking would be higher at the end of the stock , great vid John keep them coming
Since the swivel studs attach directly to the aluminium chassis which also attaches to the action, would shooting from a bipod potentially affect accuracy or POI since harmonics might be affected?
The Hogue stock works great the way it comes from Remington, 168 gr hornadys work really good but if you want to shoot bullets through the same hole at 200 yards over and over again get some black hills 175 gr.
Just installed a Bell and Carlson Light Tactical Medalist on a remington 700 BDL. The Remington manual says to torque front screws to 40-60 in lbs and rear 15-20 in lbs. Why 65 in lbs on front and rear? Does it make a big difference? Keep up the great informational videos.
I love bell and Carlson stocks, but expect to do work to the stock for it to fit. I’m currently grinding and I mean grinding all kinds of material in the barrel channel to fit my barrel and action. Now that it’s free floated the channel or cut at the action or bellow my bolt body is currently higher than the chamber and my bolt release is touching the stock.. not 100% happy but it’s the hand I was delt and I’m currently only a week away from deer season opener.
Just out of curiousity John... How much torque did you use to reattach the action screws..?? I've read anywhere from 35 to 60 inch pounds, but never found anything consistent....
When you said that there are problems when using glue and tape on the shims, I assume you are referring to the fact that the glue/tap will melt after several rounds are fired. Also, how much damage could the shims cause due to the induced stress on the action?
LoneWolf, Your very concise. Thanks. I am a bit surprised by the inaccuracy of the rifle though. My 700 has a similar aluminum block stock and even with its silly triangle barrel it shoots better than that. Maybe the Borka is calling 40 in/lbs 65 in/lbs? Maybe its the parallax "free" cheap scope? Maybe not all Remingtons are created equal?
When installing the shims, just grind the head off a proper thread bolt for the front action screw. Have it in the action to guide it into the stock. Then after the action is in place, pull it out and replace with the front screw.
Glad to see how easy it is to change a stock. Also, you sparked my interest in a rest vs. bipod experiment myself, albiet w/ a match AR-15. I wouldn't think the bipod would make a diff on an aluminum fore-end. But it seems I get better grps w/ the Rock Rest I have. Rifle harmonics can be tricky. Thanks 4 instructional vids and sharing your experience. Any thoughts on the Rem 700 Police w/ 24" HBAR and HS Prec stock, I'd b interested. One in .308 keeps calling my name at the LGS. ;-)
John I know this video is an older one but I had a question concerning the addition of the bi-pod. Do you fee or have you heard of the harmonics of a system changing when firing from a bi-pod vs a range bag ? I guess the theory I have heard was the bi-pod being stiff/rigid vs bags absorbing the harmonics to the shooting surface. Just wondering your thoughts on this ? Thanks Greg
I have this same rifle and I'm having issues with feeding can you give me some tips on how I can correct it . It's probably not picking up the round once every 4 rounds . Also what trigger would you suggest ?
Well first make sure everything fits perfectly. Then take it apart and then u can use blue lock tite if u want and then put it back together. I have never noticed any difference in using lock tite except it makes it harder to disassemble. I do not use at all on any of my firearms.
I use loctite on my base rail screws only. I check torque frequently on my action screws. I like to experiment with the torque on my action screws too. I dont loctite my scope ring screws. I may want to change my scope around a bit for different reasons or remove it for what ever reason. I use good rings (Seekins) with BIG screws that stay put very nicely. Feel free to loctite what I do not. But at least leave your action screws alone and check the torque as the rifle might "settle" as John mentions in the video. I like to take my action out of my stock easily for servicing. Loctite just gets in the way.
I learned from a gunsmith to never use lock tight on the threads of gun screws. If you need or want to use Loctite then always put a dab under the head of the screw.
Where did you get your torque wrench?? I have never seen one like that. Also I really enjoyed ur videos! You always speak loud enough, clearly and you go into great detail so we will completely understand what you are talking about!!
As stated in my earlier comments, I am new to the precision shooting game. I thought I was a great shot until now. Can you do a segment on Precision shooting fundementals? especially from the prone bipod. Apparently I need it.
FYI: Birchwood Casey Portable Shooting Range. I found it on Ebay and Amazon. Comes with the 18" x 18" white plastic and a bunch of peel and stick targets...about $23 shipped.
What do you think of the Choate stocks? I have heard mixed reviews. Besides the fact that I think they are ugly, they seem like a good way to convert my savage to a DBM system with minimal cost. Any other options are always welcome. I'm just using the factory stock so I'm sure anything would be an improvement.
Enjoying the Videos, Even picked up a 700 AAC-SD to build myself. Just a few questions. Why does this build use the M40 vs the Varmint/Tactical stock? Is it just about grip preference (Vertical on the Varmint vs Pistol on the M40)? What is your opinion on the Wheeler F.A.T. Wrench? Keep up the good work and I enjoy the lack of "Ums" and "Ahs" very professional.
Just bought the 700 SPS Tactical in .223 as an intro to long range, these videos are gold. Have you tried shimming the pillar itself with a thin washer? It should move around a whole lot less than aluminium can shims since it would be compressed between the receiver and the pillar itself by the action screw.
Instead of waiting for the action to mate with the bedding block over time, wouldn't it be more efficient to have it bedded by a gunsmith or at home? Since bedding usually runs around $200 if done by a competent gunsmith, isn't that a better option than waiting several hundred rounds for the action to naturally form to the block?
I would like to make a friendly suggestion. While tightening down the action screws, it might be better to set the rifle in some kind of cradle,or have someone hold it instead of resting on the top turret of the scope,so when the torque wrench breaks your rifle doesn't fall on the table. I realize the surface of the table is carpeted and nothing was hurt but it would look a little more professional. Also by giving it better support you are getting a more accurate torque by stabilizing the rifle.
It's so hard to watch this 8 years later now that the R700 with bull barrel 1:10 twist and 5R rifling comes in a fully free floated Magpul hunter stock (full aluminum block) with detachable box magazine that fits AI mags. You went through a lot of effort to do all this, which is greatly appreciated. Now they make the budget precision rifle (even comes with enlarged bolt handle) straight from the factory. It's surprising it took Remington this long to offer that model though.
I listen and like a lot of firearms channels. But, I really like this guy. He is always prepared. No BS. Extremely pleasant voice/narration. Quite knowledgeable. He takes the time to answer questions (in the comments section) which is fairly rare for a channel that churns out so many videos. He gives opinions sure. But his opinions are carefully measured. He gives both the pros and the cons of items and procedures. I bet he is a pretty nice guy too. We need more guys/channels like this.
Thx John on the tip for shimming the factory Hogue stock; worked like a champ.
you get so many comments, i hope you get to read this one. i followed your directions on shimming and floating the stock with the aluminum shims..(Remington 700 26") Burris scope, Hornady match, i shot a 7/8 " group, all holes touching . this was such a thrill, i have never even shot SUB MOA in my life. I think the fact that you gave all of the torque values, and i followed what you said to a "T" really helped. i don't know if many people thank you, but, "THANK YOU!" keep up the good work.!!
This is a very good video! I will be picking up my Remington 700SPS (.308) next week and I have learned quite a bit on how to improve it.
Good video! I just took a dremel to mine to take out about 1/8 inch under the front of the barrel and went from shot gun groups to 1/2 inch at 100 yards. Mine was so flimsy that even the tiniest amount if weight on the stock would make it touch the barrel.
I did a similar build last month with the B&C Tactical/varmant stock and added a Wyatts DM as well. I'm geting .5 MOA groups and love it. $1400 build not including my NF NXS 3.5 - 15 X50, and Trijicon Accupoint 20 MOA base. Uber happy with it. Thanks for sharing the vids.
great video. I'm glad that the bell carlson stock is direct bolt in. Waiting on mine right now in the mail. Thanks for a good review of it and install. Thumbs up! Love the vids!
Thank you for all your hard work and instruction in the video.
compare to your previous pt.3 video, this new stock really does the trick, glad to see such tight group
Thanks John. You've given me the incentive I needed to start this prodject.
Thank you for clearing that up for me. I shimmed the stock on my 700 SPS Tactical yesterday, along with my buddies 700 SPS Varmit. We'll be going out later today and I'm excited to see how this will affect my accuracy (hopefully in a positive manner).!!
so how was it? LOL?
And you were right. It groups at 15mm at 100 meters just by dropping the action into the stock.
The hougestock/tactical also provides a VERY gentle recoil. Cant wait to get the silencer on this. I expect it to be not far away from a .22 actually :)
By the way: in Norway we dont need any licenses to purchase silencers. How nice isnt that? :)
The aluminum pillars are supposed to touch the action and the trigger guard. This prevents stock compression.
Bell and Carlson stocks are very well made. The accuracy improvement however depends on how the surfaces of the action mate with the active surfaces of any rifle stock including this one. I am about to order this same B&C stock for my Howa 1500 Mini action and will for sure further perform a bedding process to have maximum contact between the two parts leaving no room for axial, lateral or vertical creep. Regardless, you have made a very well video to show how things work young man and you show your advanced knowledge of the subject matter. Thanks a whole lot for the effort you put in to show and tell us...
for a windy day at the range the sound is real clear props to you btw I loved that video series i'd love this rifle but maybe remington 700 R5 is the way to go im not sure which one to get
Thanks for this. I replaced my Hogue with the B&C and went from wild fliers to tight groups. Great.
Question 4..... I installed my B&C VAR/TAC will minimal issues. I took it out for the first time and shot some great 1/2 min groups at 100. Feeling confident I went to 200 off bipod. Let's just say ouch.... It was humbling to say the least. I attribute most of buckshot to my own cherriness but when I came home, I noticed rubbing spots where the bolt handle lays on the stock. Also, up around the end of the stock itself I can see rubbing spots on the barrel. Dremel tool?
OMG. This is a great vid. I hope you do many more different kinds of rifles. I want to see some savage 10fp and see if their stock is worth enough to compair with good stocks
My remy 700 XCR compact tactical sits in a Bell and Carlson stock, similar to this one, but it is a smaller style for less weight. I love it!
You have a lot more patience than me. I wouldn't wait for the receiver and bedding block "to mate over time." I'd cut to the chase and bed that action.
After I dropped my AAC-SD into this stock and torqued it down to 65 in-lb (with the Borka) it seems to be shooting even worse than with the Hogue (2-3in groups). Followed all the steps and am worried something is wrong with the stock, but don't know how to even tell if that's the problem. Any advice?
I'm following this build myself and I have a question about using a bipod with this stock, on mine when I mount the bipod on the first stud (closest to end of barrel), it appears it is not entirely free floated because i cannot slide a piece of paper around the barrel and down the stock. I currently have it mounted on the second stud and the paper will fit. Have you had a similar observation on your's? It could just be than the gap is thinner than the paper but I like to be sure. love the vids.
I alum shimed a Bushnell scope on a Remy 581 because I used low rings, and even though I removed the rear sight, the obj was still touching the metal blank that sits over rear sight opening. I used rubber cement to hold the shims in the bttm of both rings. Rubber cement I figure dries to just boogers, they'll heat up on a hot day and shrink on a cold day possibly, but not sure its going to mess with accuracy under 75yds with a 22lr. I eventually plan on getting a little better scope, and probably little taller rings, but love the really low scope mounting now. I had to modify the crapy scope covers by cutting a notch in lower part of front one to actually slide it over the rear sight bridge!
would you recomend getting a rifle like the one your useing with the bell and carlson stock bedded or will it even make a diffrence?
I just picked up an AAC-SD. I have a standard SPS that's a pretty good shooter without much work. I think I may drop the AAC into a Manners stock with a pillar over glass bed job just to see what she'll do. The standard SPS will probably go into a XLR Industries stock and be re-barreled to 6.5X47 Lapua.
Thanks for another great vid Lonewolf.
I think bedding the recoil lug area might help. It would probably get rid of that one flyer that seems to appear in 5 shot groups.
I've been looking for the Orca torque wrench and I can't find it.Could you say where you got it again? Thanks great tips,Ive already finished the base bedding. I know that tis rifle isnt what most people would use for a deer rifle with the weight and all. But I could only afford one rifle,would you recommend a stock I could use as an all around use stock? Thank you!!
I just looked it up, and I see I was looking at different stocks. I had been looking at the adjustable version for myself, which is $450. The $240 one with a $60 Karsten riser is a pretty dang good setup for under $300. Thanks for the correction. It's embarrassing being wrong.
You, sir, freaking rule! Finally someone who knows what they're talking about and is able to explain it clearly! Keep it up!
Now that you have had this in a few different stocks, has the accuracy improved?
This is awesome. I just ordered my sps tactical. This will be the first thing I'm upgrading. Plus it's pretty cheap.
Your stacking of the shims all came down to uniformity. I wonder where you picked that up that bit of OCD at? Ooorah!
i got a hogue stock with my howa1500 in 308. initially due to my barrel being a heavy, the forend of the stock was totally inadequate to support the weight without contact. i also found the pillar bedding to be poor, resulting in my first groups being about 5moa+. since i could not afford a new stock initially, i bedded the action, re enforced the forend with fibreglass, 3d printed a cheek riser and 1 inch extension to the rear shoulder pad (also raising the shoulder pad 1 inch to lign up with scope and reduce recoil jump.). I then shaved as much of the rubber overmold from around the grip and trigger , action to barrel till there was almost 1/2 an inch gap in some places.
last time i went shooting it was 0.8MOA on a windy day with 2 rounds using the hogue stock, no fliers, no split groups....... but to be honest, im pretty sure the barreled action can shoot sub 1/2 inch with a good stock where the action bedding doesnt flex with recoil and the hogue still feels like im sholding a broomstick.
great experience hacking at a cheap stock to learn what works and what doesnt, but as far as stocks go for quality, i cant understand why hogue would even bother to make a stock that poor.
B&C M40 is a "poor-man's" McM A1-3. Nice stock!
Does the bell and carlson stock allow for the barrel to be free floated and bedded? I am looking at getting a r700 but the stocks throw me off a little. But if I got one of these B and C stocks I would be happy
Thanks for your videos they have been enlightening. Do you think by glass bedding the Carlson stock would improve /tighten-up the groups?
Great videos! Thanks! I'm considering a new stock for my AAC. Could you offer some advice if I should get more famous b&c medalist with the hook or the choate tactical (not the other models) thanks!
John,
Thanks for the videos on Remington 700. Just wondering what brand of torque wrench did you use to work on this rifle. Thanks appreciate it!
John... if I'd gone a little further in the vid I would have seen that you specified 65 inch pounds on the receiver screws on the B&C.. Did you set the Hogue at the same specs....?
How hard would it be to mate the action to bedding bock with some lapping compound? I am also skeptical of factory crowns Couldn't hurt to crown the muzzle.
I recently bought a Rem 700P (26in). I believe it comes with an HS Precision stock. Do you think I should have the action removed re bedded on this rifle?
Thanks you! I did that and don't see any cracks. I loosened it to 55. Are the imprints on the bolt lugs normal? That was the part that really worried me. Thanks again! (Is there another way to ask you questions besides the comment section of your videos?)
What kind of damage will the stress caused by shimming be for the action, if any? I would like to do this until I can get a new stock or chassis system.
Do you think that Bell and Carlson stock is worth it? Or should i spend an extra $100 and get an HS Precision?
I have the Hogue stock and the rifle shoots like shit off the bipod, but it does shoot ok if i sandbag the rifle under the action so Im not expecting awesome groups I just want more consistancy when shooting form a bi-pod. Gun is an SPS Tactical .223 used for coyote hunting but i would also like to use it as my beginnings into long range shooting. Then someday upgrade to a .308
First of all thank you for your videos. I have this exact rifle. I noticed the same thing with accuracy. WAS shooting moly coated bullets (1/4 moa). But not any more. Can you tell me the model of the stock, that style is similar and really cool to the original? Also what is the brand/model of the in/lb torque wrench you use?
I have remington 700 vtr and it has 2 pressure points at the end of the stock. would you recommend sanding them off or just wait until I have enough to purchase a b&c
Hehe, i have an ADL that i wanted to get another stock for. I bought a used Hougestock as u present and the barrell does not touch the stock at all. I do not have the varmint/bull barrell or what you call them. My question is: should i still bed the action into the stock? (Havent fired the rifle yet) Thanks for these informative videos btw, i would have mounted the picatinnyrail without checking the pints you mentioned :)
was wonder if the SPS tactical and the SPS Varmint has a hogue over molded stock?
Good information bro you got a new subscriber.
Hi John, thanks for the great videos! I am building a long range hunting/ occasional target rifle. I like the Bell and Carlson M40 style stock like you mounted in this video, but i was wondering if the forend might be too short for a proper balance with a 29-30" finished length barrel. If so, what stock would you recommend? Remmy 700 LA by the way,
Thanks again,
RD
Would shimming it like that negate the pillar bedding? I'm just wondering.
Great information. Thanks for doing what you do. Semper Fi.
So are you better off getting a stock with an aluminum bedding block or getting a stock you can bed yourself with the bedding epoxy?
i like how your stock looks so nice on the bedding block. mine looks like shit. the rear mounting hole has gouges out of the aluminum and a bunch of overspray. next to the barrel channel theres a crater that looks like crap. i called bell and carlson and they told me i could send it in but it would be about a 6 month wait. ugh so mad!
Aluminium can is .12 of a mil , by four is .48 of a mil so just under half mil in height at the bolt which I'm thinking would be higher at the end of the stock , great vid John keep them coming
Wow 9 years ago... mil is 1/1000 inch. You mean mm, 1/1000 meter
Since the swivel studs attach directly to the aluminium chassis which also attaches to the action, would shooting from a bipod potentially affect accuracy or POI since harmonics might be affected?
The Hogue stock works great the way it comes from Remington, 168 gr hornadys work really good but if you want to shoot bullets through the same hole at 200 yards over and over again get some black hills 175 gr.
Just installed a Bell and Carlson Light Tactical Medalist on a remington 700 BDL. The Remington manual says to torque front screws to 40-60 in lbs and rear 15-20 in lbs. Why 65 in lbs on front and rear? Does it make a big difference? Keep up the great informational videos.
I love bell and Carlson stocks, but expect to do work to the stock for it to fit. I’m currently grinding and I mean grinding all kinds of material in the barrel channel to fit my barrel and action. Now that it’s free floated the channel or cut at the action or bellow my bolt body is currently higher than the chamber and my bolt release is touching the stock.. not 100% happy but it’s the hand I was delt and I’m currently only a week away from deer season opener.
That is a slick looking setup. Is the action and barrel just a standard 700 SPS Varmint?
Just out of curiousity John... How much torque did you use to reattach the action screws..?? I've read anywhere from 35 to 60 inch pounds, but never found anything consistent....
When you said that there are problems when using glue and tape on the shims, I assume you are referring to the fact that the glue/tap will melt after several rounds are fired. Also, how much damage could the shims cause due to the induced stress on the action?
I love your videos!!
LoneWolf,
Your very concise. Thanks.
I am a bit surprised by the inaccuracy of the rifle though. My 700 has a similar aluminum block stock and even with its silly triangle barrel it shoots better than that. Maybe the Borka is calling 40 in/lbs 65 in/lbs? Maybe its the parallax "free" cheap scope? Maybe not all Remingtons are created equal?
Great video! Where did you get the tool you use to measure the inch pounds? I can't find anything like that anywhere.
Does the bell & Carlson stock only fit on the SPS tactical AAC-SD model or will it fit on any Remington 700?
When installing the shims, just grind the head off a proper thread bolt for the front action screw. Have it in the action to guide it into the stock. Then after the action is in place, pull it out and replace with the front screw.
torque'ing to 50-60 is suggested by the manual. You were seeing good results at 65"lbs of torque? Thanks for the video. Very informative!
Glad to see how easy it is to change a stock. Also, you sparked my interest in a rest vs. bipod experiment myself, albiet w/ a match AR-15. I wouldn't think the bipod would make a diff on an aluminum fore-end. But it seems I get better grps w/ the Rock Rest I have. Rifle harmonics can be tricky. Thanks 4 instructional vids and sharing your experience.
Any thoughts on the Rem 700 Police w/ 24" HBAR and HS Prec stock, I'd b interested. One in .308 keeps calling my name at the LGS. ;-)
So when you install the new bell and Carlson stock you were able to reuse the factory action screws and not have to buy new longer ones?
Correct
Okay thank you. I just bought this stock and wanted to make sure I didn’t need to buy longer screws before the stock arrived
John I know this video is an older one but I had a question concerning the addition of the bi-pod. Do you fee or have you heard of the harmonics of a system changing when firing from a bi-pod vs a range bag ? I guess the theory I have heard was the bi-pod being stiff/rigid vs bags absorbing the harmonics to the shooting surface. Just wondering your thoughts on this ? Thanks Greg
I have this same rifle and I'm having issues with feeding can you give me some tips on how I can correct it . It's probably not picking up the round once every 4 rounds . Also what trigger would you suggest ?
Should you put blue loctite on the receiver screws before you torque them down or would it be ok not to?
Well first make sure everything fits perfectly. Then take it apart and then u can use blue lock tite if u want and then put it back together. I have never noticed any difference in using lock tite except it makes it harder to disassemble. I do not use at all on any of my firearms.
I use loctite on my base rail screws only. I check torque frequently on my action screws. I like to experiment with the torque on my action screws too. I dont loctite my scope ring screws. I may want to change my scope around a bit for different reasons or remove it for what ever reason. I use good rings (Seekins) with BIG screws that stay put very nicely. Feel free to loctite what I do not. But at least leave your action screws alone and check the torque as the rifle might "settle" as John mentions in the video. I like to take my action out of my stock easily for servicing. Loctite just gets in the way.
I learned from a gunsmith to never use lock tight on the threads of gun screws. If you need or want to use Loctite then always put a dab under the head of the screw.
Where did you get your torque wrench?? I have never seen one like that. Also I really enjoyed ur videos! You always speak loud enough, clearly and you go into great detail so we will completely understand what you are talking about!!
As stated in my earlier comments, I am new to the precision shooting game. I thought I was a great shot until now. Can you do a segment on Precision shooting fundementals? especially from the prone bipod. Apparently I need it.
to keep your shims together use remoil to hold it together and it will also keep electrolysis from happening as quickly between the 2 metals.
FYI: Birchwood Casey Portable Shooting Range. I found it on Ebay and Amazon. Comes with the 18" x 18" white plastic and a bunch of peel and stick targets...about $23 shipped.
good looking product - i thought it was permanent - i'll have to check into it for my 700
What happened to your bolt knob from the previous videos? Did you install a new bolt?
what would be the next step in improving precision of this system?
What do you think of the Choate stocks? I have heard mixed reviews. Besides the fact that I think they are ugly, they seem like a good way to convert my savage to a DBM system with minimal cost. Any other options are always welcome. I'm just using the factory stock so I'm sure anything would be an improvement.
I'm buying a B and C stock to replace my sps. I wonder if it will make it more accurate? and should I glass bed it right away?
Enjoying the Videos, Even picked up a 700 AAC-SD to build myself. Just a few questions. Why does this build use the M40 vs the Varmint/Tactical stock? Is it just about grip preference (Vertical on the Varmint vs Pistol on the M40)? What is your opinion on the Wheeler F.A.T. Wrench? Keep up the good work and I enjoy the lack of "Ums" and "Ahs" very professional.
I would like to see you do a video on the Remington Model 783. That just came out this year. I'm thinking about getting this rifle in a 7mm Rem Mag
if you purchase the rifle send it to me and I will test it out.
Love my bell and carlson m40 stock! Best deal on the market
Just bought the 700 SPS Tactical in .223 as an intro to long range, these videos are gold. Have you tried shimming the pillar itself with a thin washer? It should move around a whole lot less than aluminium can shims since it would be compressed between the receiver and the pillar itself by the action screw.
so, have you made glass bedding on this B&C stock? what the best result you was able to achieve on this setup? tia
I looked everywhere for these, seems like everyone is out of the S/A B&C stocks in every style of it. They must be pretty in demand right now.
very nice rifle! btw what kind of torque driver is that?
What would be a good budget stock for a light barrel BDL?
This is extremely helpful. Thank you!
so free floating in a bell and carlson shouldnt make it worse even without those pressure points ?
Instead of waiting for the action to mate with the bedding block over time, wouldn't it be more efficient to have it bedded by a gunsmith or at home? Since bedding usually runs around $200 if done by a competent gunsmith, isn't that a better option than waiting several hundred rounds for the action to naturally form to the block?
you said you have a b&c light tactical, any good dbm bottom metal that will drop in the light tactical without inletting that you know of?
I would like to make a friendly suggestion. While tightening down the action screws, it might be better to set the rifle in some kind of cradle,or have someone hold it instead of resting on the top turret of the scope,so when the torque wrench breaks your rifle doesn't fall on the table. I realize the surface of the table is carpeted and nothing was hurt but it would look a little more professional. Also by giving it better support you are getting a more accurate torque by stabilizing the rifle.
What brand torque driver is that you are using?
Is that the factory trigger? Would you recommend changing the trigger on this rifle?
Really great video by the way.
So it just needs a bit of a break in shooting?