In this clip we replace a shot diaphragm on the SR250 carb. Replacement can be purchased here: www.jadusmotor... Any questions fire away! Happy wrenching and happy riding!
Just want to say thanks. Many CV carbs are a bit different in how the diaphragms are retained. For example this old Yamaha I am working on. The most valuable piece of information, and critical one, in your video is the orientation of the slide hole to the carb in/out ports. Two of my 4 carbs have loose diaphragms that the round slide can turn. With your tips, I have glued them and tapped the clamps really tight. They do not turn now. This bike has been parked abandoned for over 15 years. By the time I am done, I am certain it will run good or better than ever
4:22 fantastic video, silicone not recommended (by me🤣) as a glue it’s not gas resistant from personal experience Silicon particles disintegrate and fall down clogging the main jet.
Hi, To my experience and understanding, you don't have to remove the top ring, it's only to reinforce the diaphragm from sliding off from above, you can rotate the ring easily, and it's not holding on to rubber. Only the bottom plastic ring is holding tight to the diaphragm. Instead of sliding the diaphragm from the top, you can slide it gently from the bottom holding slide upside down and bring it to its original top position. One thing I am confused about is the bottom plastic ring. I think it has an important role since it works as a spacer for inner side of the slide seat probably to stop gas leakage coming in contact with a diaphragm. What do you think?
@mcrand7887 Thanks for your concern, but in this case, the plastic parts need to be removed to be able to install this particular replacement diaphragm. There are other kits that have different designs, but we do not have any experience with them. We have the same response to your inquiry about the lower plastic ring. And you are incorrect on your third assumption about the lower ring needing to be there to form a seal and to keep fuel away from the diaphragm. This replacement becomes the new seal and maintains the original dimensions of the original diaphragm, just with one part instead of a three part design. The rubber of these diaphragms is also extremely durable and tolerant of fuel, so if they get fuel on them it is not a concern at all. All the best!
@@JadusMotorcycleParts Thanks for the prompt reply! What sort of waiting time can I expect? My diaphragm has a bunch of pinholes and consequently my throttle response and idle is terrible. Do you have any temporary/semi permanent fixes that could get my bike back on the road to tide me over during the waiting time? Thanks a million for your guides and blog posts they have been super helpful.
@@mathsmanm2880 Wait time would be about a week. Shipping will be expensive though if you are just ordering something small - the tracking costs and if there is no tracking, the parts unfortunately don't get delivered in South Africa. When ordering larger items we combine shipping, then it makes it well worth while. For a temporary solution you could try a heat resistant silicon in tiny amounts over the holes. This will form a seal but not allow the diaphragm to move so freely - a decent compromise anyway!
@@JadusMotorcycleParts Thanks for the suggestion. Looking forward to becoming a customer. I had a look at some locally produced petrol resistant RTV silicon which looks like it might hold for a week or two and thankfully isn't too expensive. Keep up the awesome work you're doing on these older machines, it is much appreciated. The SR is still by far the most common bike in my city and this type of research and development leads me to believe it may stay that way for some time. Best wishes to all your future work on the SR250. Thanks Jadus!
Muy buena filosofía vender por 60 euros un trozo de goma que no vale ni 5 y además no advertir a la gente del problema que tienen estos carburadores con los retenes del eje de la mariposa
This is a molded rubber part that replaces the original and often saves the stock carburettor. The parts are made in the USA and imported to Europe. They are molded in a custom mold and vulcanised in a controlled temperature. All of this adds cost unfortunately. But hey, no one is forcing you to buy this part 😊
Just want to say thanks. Many CV carbs are a bit different in how the diaphragms are retained. For example this old Yamaha I am working on. The most valuable piece of information, and critical one, in your video is the orientation of the slide hole to the carb in/out ports. Two of my 4 carbs have loose diaphragms that the round slide can turn. With your tips, I have glued them and tapped the clamps really tight. They do not turn now.
This bike has been parked abandoned for over 15 years. By the time I am done, I am certain it will run good or better than ever
Me has salvado la vida. Mil gracias!
Another sweet video, just waiting for my glue to arrive to put it all back together !
4:22 fantastic video, silicone not recommended (by me🤣) as a glue it’s not gas resistant from personal experience Silicon particles disintegrate and fall down clogging the main jet.
Hi, To my experience and understanding, you don't have to remove the top ring, it's only to reinforce the diaphragm from sliding off from above, you can rotate the ring easily, and it's not holding on to rubber. Only the bottom plastic ring is holding tight to the diaphragm. Instead of sliding the diaphragm from the top, you can slide it gently from the bottom holding slide upside down and bring it to its original top position. One thing I am confused about is the bottom plastic ring. I think it has an important role since it works as a spacer for inner side of the slide seat probably to stop gas leakage coming in contact with a diaphragm. What do you think?
@mcrand7887 Thanks for your concern, but in this case, the plastic parts need to be removed to be able to install this particular replacement diaphragm. There are other kits that have different designs, but we do not have any experience with them. We have the same response to your inquiry about the lower plastic ring. And you are incorrect on your third assumption about the lower ring needing to be there to form a seal and to keep fuel away from the diaphragm. This replacement becomes the new seal and maintains the original dimensions of the original diaphragm, just with one part instead of a three part design. The rubber of these diaphragms is also extremely durable and tolerant of fuel, so if they get fuel on them it is not a concern at all. All the best!
Hola buenas noches . Te podría pedir un link para comprar esos diafragmas. En mí país no los consigo.
modelikocaferacers.com/es/jadus-motorcycles/4096-diafragma-carburador-mikuni-bs34-yamaha-sr250-jadus.html
Great video, have to order a set of these for my FJ1100. Love the commentary, is the rubber as flexible as the original Yamaha diaphragm?
Thanks Ray! Yes, from our experience the rubber is just as flexible as the original.
Hi there Jadus. Do you guys ship to South Africa?
Murray Wayman sure do man!
@@JadusMotorcycleParts Thanks for the prompt reply! What sort of waiting time can I expect? My diaphragm has a bunch of pinholes and consequently my throttle response and idle is terrible. Do you have any temporary/semi permanent fixes that could get my bike back on the road to tide me over during the waiting time? Thanks a million for your guides and blog posts they have been super helpful.
@@mathsmanm2880 Wait time would be about a week. Shipping will be expensive though if you are just ordering something small - the tracking costs and if there is no tracking, the parts unfortunately don't get delivered in South Africa. When ordering larger items we combine shipping, then it makes it well worth while.
For a temporary solution you could try a heat resistant silicon in tiny amounts over the holes. This will form a seal but not allow the diaphragm to move so freely - a decent compromise anyway!
@@JadusMotorcycleParts Thanks for the suggestion. Looking forward to becoming a customer. I had a look at some locally produced petrol resistant RTV silicon which looks like it might hold for a week or two and thankfully isn't too expensive. Keep up the awesome work you're doing on these older machines, it is much appreciated. The SR is still by far the most common bike in my city and this type of research and development leads me to believe it may stay that way for some time. Best wishes to all your future work on the SR250. Thanks Jadus!
@@JadusMotorcycleParts Hi there, just curious, if my air/fuel screw is stripped is there an alternative way I could richen the mixture?
So dissapointing these are only sold out of europe for stupid high costs now :(
Get in touch with Paul from JBM Industries in the US, he'll sort you out. You want the M-73 for this carb.
Muy buena filosofía vender por 60 euros un trozo de goma que no vale ni 5 y además no advertir a la gente del problema que tienen estos carburadores con los retenes del eje de la mariposa
This is a molded rubber part that replaces the original and often saves the stock carburettor. The parts are made in the USA and imported to Europe. They are molded in a custom mold and vulcanised in a controlled temperature. All of this adds cost unfortunately. But hey, no one is forcing you to buy this part 😊