After moving the boats back to berkhamsted, I need to sort the roof, work out the solar panel locations and do all the calculations for my solar array #diy #solar #design
James, love your channel, and your detailed drawing and thought processes, only to layout the panels in a different format, but you missed one important item - your boiler flue😮
The flue will be to the side of the panel I’m hoping like it is on sloe patrol. I won’t know that for sure until the flue is in - then I may have to reconfigure Thanks Colin
Was it actually a winding hole? There were no signs indicating it as such and no sign stating maximum length of boat that could be turned. It certainly didn't look big enough to be a CRT winding hole, it just looked like a wide section of the canal, so the widebeam was probably moored quite reasonably and shouldn't have been walked across by someone trying to turn their boat.
Along with other folks, I should emphasise that you should not cut into the panel frame. This not only affects the structural stability of the frame, but also could interfere with mounting systems if you were to sell them to someone else.
Bolt a slotted slide to the panels don't cut slots in the Ali as it will make it very weak. Also if the slot is long enough you can chose which way to slide them, as the lock ladder is never in the same place twice, 😬.
I’m loving the boys club you have around you, I can only imagine how much of a giggle you all get up to whilst enjoying geeking about fixing up your man caves 🤗
Perfectly sums up the frustrations of boating - low water levels, train noise and dog poop a plenty. A Widebeam in the winding hole just for good measure! I'd say never mind walking on the roof, just use the gunnels - but if they're not fit for purpose....
Tilting the panels towards the sun makes a big difference. At 51°N a flat panel could loose nearly 20% on average by fixing them flat. Suggest you mount the panels so you can manually tilt them towards the sun when you're not moving.
I notice that you have a fairlead either side so if you have two centre lines (port and starboard) through the fair leads I would think that they should not snag your solar panels
I added centre line fix points to port and starboard of the original. So my two centre lines now run straighter either side of my roof box. Game changer.
Another interesting video, nice one. For what it’s worth, I wouldn’t offset the solar panels because it would be a fiddle sliding them across separately and I think you’ll get used to the thinner gunnels.. I’m looking forward to seeing what you decide Good luck mate
You don't need to be running solar cable. As that is rated for high voltage. You can get away with much lower voltage rated (cheaper) cable, as you have a max 38V.
I think your best bet is to not cut into the panel frame and find something where you attach hardware to the frame instead. Having the panels on the centre of the boat also means it’s simpler to tilt for sun exposure. There are a lot of options obviously, and since you said you wanted to get new panels in the next year or so, don’t box yourself in to a specific mounting system that won’t work potentially for new panels. Those particular panels are not very powerful and they are a very odd shape so I do hope you’re able to get ones that fit the roof of the boat properly and have some higher output. Having better panels also means that you may free up some roof space and so on. Also obviously remember to make all of your calculations with the worst case scenario in mind, possibly having one or two of the panels potentially covered by something or in partial shade so you can almost guaranteed to have some buffer on more overcast days or times when you are more in the shade.
There is a boat currently moored up in the Aylesbury Pool/Basin (behind Waitrose) which has its panels set on slatted boxes about 6 inches high. Useful storage underneath(?) and stops the centre line getting stuck underneath. Maybe worth having a look James? It certainly looks pretty neat.
Nah you can move in any direction as long as you do at least 20miles bona fide cruising per year. BUT I’m a little bit guilty of shuffling between 3 points over recent weeks which technically isn’t really allowed
You’ll soon know if they only give you a restricted license next time you renew. Your trip to Crick doesn’t count towards your continuous cruising. Otherwise everyone could could just stay in one area all year and then go on holiday for two weeks cruising 🤣
@@alanrichardson1672 true , we did 400 miles this summer in one direction apart from going down the grand union as far as Marsworth & had to turn back due to no moorings because people just stay in one area . It’s not fair
It would probably be worth loading up each individual panel with a couple of series connected car lamps just to make sure they're all ok before you mount them.
For the brackets. I have seen some use magnets to adhere to the roof instead of drilling all those holes to mount the brackets. Also then you could move them to the side when needed. Just a thought.
I read somewhere that solar panels degrade over time and after about 8-10 years they are almost useless. How old are these panels? Have you tested the output?
It's a shame you can't set the mountings up so you can flip the panels up to safely walk for and aft, than lock them down? ;-) After writing that, I thought. If I was brave enough to have a narrowboat it would have so many levers and wheels to activate features (widened gunnel path, tiller activated bow thruster, etc...) that it could look like a floating Rube Goldberg machine. ;-D
Either get used to the gunwales or make them slide to both sides if you're going to do so at all. Depending on the direction of travel and the side the towpath happens to be on the side closer to the bank, and therefore potentially shaded, will change and lock ladders that you'd want to walk to on the roof can be on either side.
James this is spooky. I'm just about at the same stage as you, although I have opted for glue down flexible panels that can be "fallen" on but not intentionally walked on. It seems I've ordered a few too many, hey what the heck I'll just mount those on the side of the boat covering up the odd window that I've done away with.
Dog shitting championships !!!! Lol The owners need castrating for letting them do that ! I know Barbaric ! But who doesn’t love some medieval torture ! Any way that said you look tired James. Hope your ok? I saw a boat who had a stair lay out like yours and to be honest I was surprised ! it didn’t look bad ! Have a good week matey ! Xx
This may be financially out of the question but the latest Solar panels are far more powerful than older ones. We are getting 9.2 kWh from the same number of panels bought last year, as we had producing 4kwh in 2010 installed panels ( not elegantly put but you know what I mean!) perhaps with a couple of new panels you could release extra boat roof space! Just a thought!
Don't cut the solar panels like that you're just asking for trouble with water ingress which can lead to panel delamination. If you want them to be moveable like that use some hardware brackets mounted to the panel instead. If you can't find the size/length you want you can easily make your own with some flat bar, a drill and some hand files. I think first thing you need to do is test the solar panels before permanently installing them, older solar panels tend to degrade over time and their efficiency plummets and those look to be around 10 to 15 years old. Last thing you want is to install them and find out they're not going to charge your batteries. However you choose to mount them, they should be able to be angled/swiveled side to side so you can point them towards the sun to maximize the amount of sunlight they get. Raising them up off the roof a several inches will give you the ability to pitch them side to side when mounted in the middle of the panel.👍👍
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, I have been living totally off grid since 2000, my tiny home is powered by 36 x 405 watt panels., enjoying your channel, may I make s suggestion, maybe each of two panels in series each, then each group of two joined in series, less voltage, and less voltage drop because of the distance
The closer to the battery voltage you can get with the panels, the lower the conversion losses in the charge controler. As the step down in voltage will result in inductor losses.
James, just seeing this and thinking a little left field. 1) the gang plank and pole mounts. Zip them off with your angel grinder and refit on the side next to your stern entrance. 2) the centre rope fitting. Fabricate a pylon / cone structure to raise the rope ring, say 6 inches which then gives you clearance. Move it aft a foot and that enables all 4 panels to fit at the front and allow a little bummage for roof butt sitting
G’day from Oz, I love your videos and have learnt a lot I would love to go to England one day it looks nice my wife japanese so i do the hubby thing and go to Japan. Any way if you want to take renovating narrow boating to the next level you should see what the Japanese do they are great engineers they half to work with 42 square meter appartments so they now how to save space, save on power, save money and great with electronic. My misses friends have fridges, freezers and pantry in the floors and that just the start of it any way your doing a great job all the best Dazz.
Would it maybe better having the panels in 2 pairs more voltage (less volt drop) less amps and the mppt still would pump out the same amperage as it converts excess voltage to current ? 120volts dc will bite you if they are all in series + when they are in 2 pairs if shading is on one pair the other one still produces power ?
James, love your channel, and your detailed drawing and thought processes, only to layout the panels in a different format, but you missed one important item - your boiler flue😮
The flue will be to the side of the panel I’m hoping like it is on sloe patrol. I won’t know that for sure until the flue is in - then I may have to reconfigure
Thanks Colin
It takes a special kind of a-hole to moor on a winding hole...
Crack on, James. Winter draws on. 😉
I liked the way Sweary Dan just coolly walked down its gunwales though, serves them right.
@@1258-Eckhart I think I'd have made a point of stepping in some dog shit beforehand. 😁
Was it actually a winding hole? There were no signs indicating it as such and no sign stating maximum length of boat that could be turned. It certainly didn't look big enough to be a CRT winding hole, it just looked like a wide section of the canal, so the widebeam was probably moored quite reasonably and shouldn't have been walked across by someone trying to turn their boat.
Along with other folks, I should emphasise that you should not cut into the panel frame. This not only affects the structural stability of the frame, but also could interfere with mounting systems if you were to sell them to someone else.
Bolt a slotted slide to the panels don't cut slots in the Ali as it will make it very weak. Also if the slot is long enough you can chose which way to slide them, as the lock ladder is never in the same place twice, 😬.
I’m loving the boys club you have around you, I can only imagine how much of a giggle you all get up to whilst enjoying geeking about fixing up your man caves 🤗
I've been fortunate enough to have had a couple of beers with them and you're right, they are a good crack, especially sweary Dan.
Perfectly sums up the frustrations of boating - low water levels, train noise and dog poop a plenty. A Widebeam in the winding hole just for good measure!
I'd say never mind walking on the roof, just use the gunnels - but if they're not fit for purpose....
James, when I think of the 1st days of Sloe Patrol and the work you were doing inside till now, you have grown in knowledge and experience so much!! 🤓
Tilting the panels towards the sun makes a big difference.
At 51°N a flat panel could loose nearly 20% on average by fixing them flat.
Suggest you mount the panels so you can manually tilt them towards the sun when you're not moving.
Overspec the MPPT so you can keep it if/when you update the solar panels. Same goes for the cables.
I notice that you have a fairlead either side so if you have two centre lines (port and starboard) through the fair leads I would think that they should not snag your solar panels
I added centre line fix points to port and starboard of the original. So my two centre lines now run straighter either side of my roof box. Game changer.
Another interesting video, nice one.
For what it’s worth, I wouldn’t offset the solar panels because it would be a fiddle sliding them across separately and I think you’ll get used to the thinner gunnels..
I’m looking forward to seeing what you decide
Good luck mate
I vote for side mounting the walkway down one side is way safer than narrow gunnels
You don't need to be running solar cable. As that is rated for high voltage. You can get away with much lower voltage rated (cheaper) cable, as you have a max 38V.
Where is flue going ?.
I think your best bet is to not cut into the panel frame and find something where you attach hardware to the frame instead. Having the panels on the centre of the boat also means it’s simpler to tilt for sun exposure. There are a lot of options obviously, and since you said you wanted to get new panels in the next year or so, don’t box yourself in to a specific mounting system that won’t work potentially for new panels. Those particular panels are not very powerful and they are a very odd shape so I do hope you’re able to get ones that fit the roof of the boat properly and have some higher output. Having better panels also means that you may free up some roof space and so on. Also obviously remember to make all of your calculations with the worst case scenario in mind, possibly having one or two of the panels potentially covered by something or in partial shade so you can almost guaranteed to have some buffer on more overcast days or times when you are more in the shade.
i would 100% have them off to one side so you have a walk way.
Just do like the Minimalist. Very clever
Good explanation👍
There is a boat currently moored up in the Aylesbury Pool/Basin (behind Waitrose) which has its panels set on slatted boxes about 6 inches high. Useful storage underneath(?) and stops the centre line getting stuck underneath. Maybe worth having a look James?
It certainly looks pretty neat.
Just wondering did you get a survey done on the second boat regarding the hull
How does it work in that area ? I thought CRT rules for cc is to keep moving in one direction
Nah you can move in any direction as long as you do at least 20miles bona fide cruising per year. BUT I’m a little bit guilty of shuffling between 3 points over recent weeks which technically isn’t really allowed
You’ll soon know if they only give you a restricted license next time you renew. Your trip to Crick doesn’t count towards your continuous cruising. Otherwise everyone could could just stay in one area all year and then go on holiday for two weeks cruising 🤣
@@alanrichardson1672 true , we did 400 miles this summer in one direction apart from going down the grand union as far as Marsworth & had to turn back due to no moorings because people just stay in one area . It’s not fair
I would offset panels for space if no other reason. Most people would not notice at a glance. You do you though!
💜💙💚
It would probably be worth loading up each individual panel with a couple of series connected car lamps just to make sure they're all ok before you mount them.
For the brackets. I have seen some use magnets to adhere to the roof instead of drilling all those holes to mount the brackets.
Also then you could move them to the side when needed. Just a thought.
Magnets are a recipe for the panels to go bye-bye in high winds.
I read somewhere that solar panels degrade over time and after about 8-10 years they are almost useless. How old are these panels? Have you tested the output?
It's a shame you can't set the mountings up so you can flip the panels up to safely walk for and aft, than lock them down? ;-)
After writing that, I thought. If I was brave enough to have a narrowboat it would have so many levers and wheels to activate features (widened gunnel path, tiller activated bow thruster, etc...) that it could look like a floating Rube Goldberg machine. ;-D
Another comment about Diesel heater flue. From the drawing it looked like the heater was right where you had the panel.
No the flue would be to the side of the panel like it is on sloe
Can you not fit them on to storage boxes? Would stop the centre line getting snagged. Great video mate
Either get used to the gunwales or make them slide to both sides if you're going to do so at all. Depending on the direction of travel and the side the towpath happens to be on the side closer to the bank, and therefore potentially shaded, will change and lock ladders that you'd want to walk to on the roof can be on either side.
“International Dog Shitting Championship” 🤣🤣😎 pain in the Arse though.
That house by the lock at the beginning once belonged to one of my school friends
That’s such a lovely house
Looks like it’s been build up recently - what a spot they have
GOOD VID
Gutted i couldnt get tickets for the international dog shitting championships this year.
Local heats take place across the country, in every park and playground. No need to travel. 😉
P.S. The tickets are overpriced.
@@sarkybugger5009 yeah ive seen the local heats outside my house, just a shame i missed the final.
James this is spooky. I'm just about at the same stage as you, although I have opted for glue down flexible panels that can be "fallen" on but not intentionally walked on. It seems I've ordered a few too many, hey what the heck I'll just mount those on the side of the boat covering up the odd window that I've done away with.
Dog shitting championships !!!! Lol The owners need castrating for letting them do that ! I know Barbaric ! But who doesn’t love some medieval torture ! Any way that said you look tired James. Hope your ok? I saw a boat who had a stair lay out like yours and to be honest I was surprised ! it didn’t look bad ! Have a good week matey ! Xx
Any worry about height with low tunnels etc?
This may be financially out of the question but the latest Solar panels are far more powerful than older ones. We are getting 9.2 kWh from the same number of panels bought last year, as we had producing 4kwh in 2010 installed panels ( not elegantly put but you know what I mean!) perhaps with a couple of new panels you could release extra boat roof space! Just a thought!
@@IDKline no, mine are traditional Hyundai 410s.
Don't cut the solar panels like that you're just asking for trouble with water ingress which can lead to panel delamination. If you want them to be moveable like that use some hardware brackets mounted to the panel instead. If you can't find the size/length you want you can easily make your own with some flat bar, a drill and some hand files.
I think first thing you need to do is test the solar panels before permanently installing them, older solar panels tend to degrade over time and their efficiency plummets and those look to be around 10 to 15 years old. Last thing you want is to install them and find out they're not going to charge your batteries.
However you choose to mount them, they should be able to be angled/swiveled side to side so you can point them towards the sun to maximize the amount of sunlight they get. Raising them up off the roof a several inches will give you the ability to pitch them side to side when mounted in the middle of the panel.👍👍
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, I have been living totally off grid since 2000, my tiny home is powered by 36 x 405 watt panels., enjoying your channel, may I make s suggestion, maybe each of two panels in series each, then each group of two joined in series, less voltage, and less voltage drop because of the distance
The closer to the battery voltage you can get with the panels, the lower the conversion losses in the charge controler. As the step down in voltage will result in inductor losses.
James, just seeing this and thinking a little left field.
1) the gang plank and pole mounts. Zip them off with your angel grinder and refit on the side next to your stern entrance.
2) the centre rope fitting. Fabricate a pylon / cone structure to raise the rope ring, say 6 inches which then gives you clearance. Move it aft a foot and that enables all 4 panels to fit at the front and allow a little bummage for roof butt sitting
Yeh, definitely just move that plank and pole thing if its in the way. two centre lines would be an option.
G’day from Oz, I love your videos and have learnt a lot I would love to go to England one day it looks nice my wife japanese so i do the hubby thing and go to Japan.
Any way if you want to take renovating narrow boating to the next level you should see what the Japanese do they are great engineers they half to work with 42 square meter appartments so they now how to save space, save on power, save money and great with electronic.
My misses friends have fridges, freezers and pantry in the floors and that just the start of it any way your doing a great job all the best Dazz.
Would it maybe better having the panels in 2 pairs more voltage (less volt drop) less amps and the mppt still would pump out the same amperage as it converts excess voltage to current ? 120volts dc will bite you if they are all in series + when they are in 2 pairs if shading is on one pair the other one still produces power ?
CENTER!
Moored on a winding how ignorant