Wonderful video but I especially appreciate your wrap-up on this one. Your Memorial Day message and devotional are really inspirational. What a channel; we can nerd out on food plots and fill the spiritual tank a little bit too! Thanks for what you do!
You’ve changed the way I look at doing food plots, and the message always of our creator, lord and savior is always uplifting, thank you for what you do!
i love hunting whitetails like the next guy but I really wanted to take my plots to a new level and not just average. These videos have really helped me along to get to the "next level"...Thank you!!
Another outstanding video from the best team on the tube! Thanks for your expertise and especially for your testimony and witness over all these years! Best blessings to you and all yours at Growing Deer!
Sherman - I have a good friend near Marshall that's using the Release Process and is having great results! We'll film a follow up at is place this summer!
Love the idea, and am currently practicing what you preach. However I have a couple concerns with the system. First, as hunting is my primary focus I don't personally believe that you can beat a lone standing bean field or even corn for draw. Always having a blend with a bunch of different ones I don't believe will have the draw power of the single crop. May be a good experiment for you though. Secondly, I worry about compaction over time with no tillage. I've seen some long term videos where that could become an issue over a long term as well. I'm not sure if it's soil specific or what but a definite concern in some areas. Thanks for the videos
Branson - There's beans in the Summer Release and Browse Pressure Release blends! Beans are certainly attractive to deer. However, Most folks, including me can't grow beans without fencing them as deer browse them lip high within days. In addition, no single species can improve the soil as rapidly as blends. Using a no till and multi species blends year round is a great way to break hard pans and improve the soil. Remember the best soil on the planet historically and now is never plowed or disced. You should attend a Field Event here and see for yourself. Corn is a good attractant, but about 7% protein. It doesn't grow antlers or fawns. It is high in energy but most folks don't have enough food plot acreage to produce ample summer food and corn. I don't.
Another great video thank you for sharing. I just got a genesis seeder and planning on planting the summer blend followed by the fall blend. Hopefully you have time to answer a few questions to help me get started. 1) What settings do you set the gear box and gate opening? 2) I noticed that your fall rye grows quite thick. The fall blend only has 10 lbs per acre. Do you have to add any to get your results? 3) Do you only do 1 pass with the genesis or sometimes do another pass perpendicular. Thank you
Reg - I have an older Genesis - one with gears. Sorry! I planted at the recommended rate and never make more than one pass. I don't want the added soil compaction from the tractor tires. If the drill is calibrated correctly, all will be well!
Dr. Grant, I purchased a small 70 acre parcel and have been watching your videos and learned a lot. We did a cut on about 15 acres of it and left behind about 3 stems per acre (mostly oaks). I plan to expand the plot to what the topography will allow (hopefully at least 2 acres). I have planted a screening blend (egyption wheat, sorghum) along the perimeter of the cut to allow access on both sides given the wind direction. For the plot, what's your thoughts on using a seed dropper that works in conjunction with a disc? I was hoping by utilizing this method the front disc row would act similar to a no-till by breaking the tuff and the seed would then be dropped in with the second row of discs covering the seed. There are some brands in the market that sell this setup which is more economical than the larger no-till drills. I would think with these being smaller setups, I would get enough of the tuff to break open without disturbing the soil enough to allow any erosion, but also exposing the soil enough to get that seed to soil contact. Always appreciate your opinion. Thanks and God Bless!
Jay - I used to own a planter that worked as you described. They will work in certain conditions. However, that level of soil disturbance will result in way more weeds and likely the need to use herbicides compared to a no-till drill. Steel is very expensive now and all good tractors, implements, etc., cost a lot. If something made out of steel doesn't cost a lot, check the weight. It will be made lightly. Most NRCS offices around the nation rent no-till drills and the rate is very inexpensive. You might checkout that option.
Grant what do I do after I do a prescribed burn on my pasture land? How long do I have to wait after and what would be the next process? Do I have to fertilize or treat before using a no drill till and seed? Do I do that in early summer right when the grasses die? I am pretty close to you in Eastern Oklahoma, just 45 mins from Fort Smith, AK. What would be a good blend to plant?
Tim - most pasture grasses are perennial and fire won't kill them. You may have noticed the areas greening back up. Often using Rx fire to move all duff is a good first move. Then, once the grasses green up and grow to between 3" and 6" tall, apply a herbicide. This usually results in a good kill. It may be best to complete this just before fall planting season and when there's adequate soil moisture. Then plant the Fall Release blend by GreenCoverSeed.com at a heavy rate. You'll need to choke out weeds from the seed bank. Pasture grasses tend to make a lot of seed and herbicides like glyphosate won't control those seeds. Remember, having ample soil moisture and/or a rain in the short term forecast is important for establishing a new crop1
Jeff - I and everyone should calibrate each year as seed sizes change year to year based on the growing conditions. Droughts result in smaller seeds, etc. Calibrating is easy and takes less than 15 minutes. I believe on my Genesis - mine is an older model - I used the 25/75 gear and the gate was at 2.5 open. Please only use that as a starting point for the Summer Release blend.
We crimped our Fall Release food plots last week. Looks like we got a good kill on the cereal rye and crimson clover, but not so much on the winter wheat and white clover. Is this something we should be concerned about?
Shelby - Nice work! Wheat matures much later than cereal rye and deer and turkeys will consome the seed heads (unless it's the hairy variety - hair like structures sticking out from between the seeds). White clover is deer food - let it grow unless it starts taking over the plot.
Dr. Woods, I just joined a hunt club here in Alabama that plows all it's food plots. I'd like to convert them to your system. How can I convert one of their plots to this system as an example to convince them there is a better way? Should I start with a fall crop or a spring crop? Where can I order a blend that would work here?
Joseph - I'm not a very good politician. Most folks seem to learn by doing or watching others do. You may need to bring a key member to a Field Event here. It's may be a bit easier to start during the late summer with the Fall Release Blend from GreenCoverFoodPlots.com.
So basically at one time your plots looked like nothing but a gravel bed. Over the years, how many inches of soil do you think you have created over some of your older plots?
@@GrowingDeerTV that is just awesome... I had started using these methods on my old place and loved the difference I could literally feel under my feet where my plots were located. I bought a new piece of land last year and have started the process again. I just love the process. Its very satisfying.
To improve the soil's health, it's best to have a living root in the soil year round. Broadcasting works if the seed will reach the soil. If the seeds land on vegetation, etc., they will get warm and wet and germinate but without a root in the soil they will soon die.
Hi Grant. I'm moving to Stockdale Texas an hour from San Antonio. We bought 14 acres. Right now where I want to use your methods to create food plots, it's all weeds. What the step, before Part 1, when I have to kill weeds and get the green mulch growing so I can then "plant green" and crimp? Garry.
Garry - Congratulations on purchasing land in a neat area! The best approach an vary based on the species of weeds, etc. It may be necessary to use a herbicide to get off to a good start.
@@GrowingDeerTV so use the Roundup, and after everything dies plant either the summer or fall blend depending on time of year, correct? And plant right on top of the dead weeds? Is there a video of how to get started for the first time to get a crop that will become your first mulch after knocking it down, crimping?
David - Crimping should be timed so the seeds on the standing crop are in the dough state - fully formed and full of moisture, but not hard or viable yet. This can be just after drilling or wait a week or more until the dough stage.
Best show on you tube! Thx growing deer team for all the videos!
Glad you enjoy it!
from a veteran to you Dr. Woods; thank you for honoring the fallen comrades in order to keep America great. Thank you .
Shannon - Thanks for noticing!
Thank you for the support for our military! It is great to see people supporting our great nation! Semper Fi!
Aaron - if you served, thanks for your service!
Wonderful video but I especially appreciate your wrap-up on this one. Your Memorial Day message and devotional are really inspirational. What a channel; we can nerd out on food plots and fill the spiritual tank a little bit too! Thanks for what you do!
Thanks for the encouragement!
You’ve changed the way I look at doing food plots, and the message always of our creator, lord and savior is always uplifting, thank you for what you do!
Thanks Tim!
i love hunting whitetails like the next guy but I really wanted to take my plots to a new level and not just average. These videos have really helped me along to get to the "next level"...Thank you!!
Thank you Grant.
Another outstanding video from the best team on the tube! Thanks for your expertise and especially for your testimony and witness over all these years! Best blessings to you and all yours at Growing Deer!
Thanks for the blessing Von!
Simply amazing video...... Thanks so much!!!! 👍
Welcome!
Great video Grant.
Thanks KC!
Thanks Grant for sharing again your planting process. Working down here in the piney woods of southeast Texas to duplicate Growing Green.
Sherman - I have a good friend near Marshall that's using the Release Process and is having great results! We'll film a follow up at is place this summer!
@@GrowingDeerTV
Looking forward to it.
Love the idea, and am currently practicing what you preach. However I have a couple concerns with the system. First, as hunting is my primary focus I don't personally believe that you can beat a lone standing bean field or even corn for draw. Always having a blend with a bunch of different ones I don't believe will have the draw power of the single crop. May be a good experiment for you though. Secondly, I worry about compaction over time with no tillage. I've seen some long term videos where that could become an issue over a long term as well. I'm not sure if it's soil specific or what but a definite concern in some areas. Thanks for the videos
Branson - There's beans in the Summer Release and Browse Pressure Release blends! Beans are certainly attractive to deer. However, Most folks, including me can't grow beans without fencing them as deer browse them lip high within days. In addition, no single species can improve the soil as rapidly as blends. Using a no till and multi species blends year round is a great way to break hard pans and improve the soil. Remember the best soil on the planet historically and now is never plowed or disced. You should attend a Field Event here and see for yourself. Corn is a good attractant, but about 7% protein. It doesn't grow antlers or fawns. It is high in energy but most folks don't have enough food plot acreage to produce ample summer food and corn. I don't.
Another great video thank you for sharing. I just got a genesis seeder and planning on planting the summer blend followed by the fall blend. Hopefully you have time to answer a few questions to help me get started. 1) What settings do you set the gear box and gate opening? 2) I noticed that your fall rye grows quite thick. The fall blend only has 10 lbs per acre. Do you have to add any to get your results? 3) Do you only do 1 pass with the genesis or sometimes do another pass perpendicular. Thank you
Reg - I have an older Genesis - one with gears. Sorry! I planted at the recommended rate and never make more than one pass. I don't want the added soil compaction from the tractor tires. If the drill is calibrated correctly, all will be well!
Dr. Grant, I purchased a small 70 acre parcel and have been watching your videos and learned a lot. We did a cut on about 15 acres of it and left behind about 3 stems per acre (mostly oaks). I plan to expand the plot to what the topography will allow (hopefully at least 2 acres). I have planted a screening blend (egyption wheat, sorghum) along the perimeter of the cut to allow access on both sides given the wind direction. For the plot, what's your thoughts on using a seed dropper that works in conjunction with a disc? I was hoping by utilizing this method the front disc row would act similar to a no-till by breaking the tuff and the seed would then be dropped in with the second row of discs covering the seed. There are some brands in the market that sell this setup which is more economical than the larger no-till drills. I would think with these being smaller setups, I would get enough of the tuff to break open without disturbing the soil enough to allow any erosion, but also exposing the soil enough to get that seed to soil contact. Always appreciate your opinion. Thanks and God Bless!
Jay - I used to own a planter that worked as you described. They will work in certain conditions. However, that level of soil disturbance will result in way more weeds and likely the need to use herbicides compared to a no-till drill. Steel is very expensive now and all good tractors, implements, etc., cost a lot. If something made out of steel doesn't cost a lot, check the weight. It will be made lightly. Most NRCS offices around the nation rent no-till drills and the rate is very inexpensive. You might checkout that option.
Grant what do I do after I do a prescribed burn on my pasture land? How long do I have to wait after and what would be the next process? Do I have to fertilize or treat before using a no drill till and seed? Do I do that in early summer right when the grasses die? I am pretty close to you in Eastern Oklahoma, just 45 mins from Fort Smith, AK. What would be a good blend to plant?
Tim - most pasture grasses are perennial and fire won't kill them. You may have noticed the areas greening back up. Often using Rx fire to move all duff is a good first move. Then, once the grasses green up and grow to between 3" and 6" tall, apply a herbicide. This usually results in a good kill. It may be best to complete this just before fall planting season and when there's adequate soil moisture. Then plant the Fall Release blend by GreenCoverSeed.com at a heavy rate. You'll need to choke out weeds from the seed bank. Pasture grasses tend to make a lot of seed and herbicides like glyphosate won't control those seeds. Remember, having ample soil moisture and/or a rain in the short term forecast is important for establishing a new crop1
@@GrowingDeerTV Thanks again Grant. Can't wait to get this started!
Great stuff. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks for watching!
Would you mind sharing your gear and seed gate settings on your drill while planting your spring and fall mixes?
Jeff - I and everyone should calibrate each year as seed sizes change year to year based on the growing conditions. Droughts result in smaller seeds, etc. Calibrating is easy and takes less than 15 minutes. I believe on my Genesis - mine is an older model - I used the 25/75 gear and the gate was at 2.5 open. Please only use that as a starting point for the Summer Release blend.
We crimped our Fall Release food plots last week. Looks like we got a good kill on the cereal rye and crimson clover, but not so much on the winter wheat and white clover. Is this something we should be concerned about?
Shelby - Nice work! Wheat matures much later than cereal rye and deer and turkeys will consome the seed heads (unless it's the hairy variety - hair like structures sticking out from between the seeds). White clover is deer food - let it grow unless it starts taking over the plot.
Dr. Woods, I just joined a hunt club here in Alabama that plows all it's food plots. I'd like to convert them to your system. How can I convert one of their plots to this system as an example to convince them there is a better way? Should I start with a fall crop or a spring crop? Where can I order a blend that would work here?
Joseph - I'm not a very good politician. Most folks seem to learn by doing or watching others do. You may need to bring a key member to a Field Event here. It's may be a bit easier to start during the late summer with the Fall Release Blend from GreenCoverFoodPlots.com.
So basically at one time your plots looked like nothing but a gravel bed. Over the years, how many inches of soil do you think you have created over some of your older plots?
George - They did! Whew they were rough. There's about 6" of rich organic matter on top of the rocks now in many of the plots.
@@GrowingDeerTV that is just awesome... I had started using these methods on my old place and loved the difference I could literally feel under my feet where my plots were located. I bought a new piece of land last year and have started the process again. I just love the process. Its very satisfying.
We only plant fall crops in the MS delta. Could we still use this method every September or October? Also, can you broadcast seed then crimp?
To improve the soil's health, it's best to have a living root in the soil year round. Broadcasting works if the seed will reach the soil. If the seeds land on vegetation, etc., they will get warm and wet and germinate but without a root in the soil they will soon die.
God bless
Steve - I appreciate the blessing!
Hi Grant. I'm moving to Stockdale Texas an hour from San Antonio. We bought 14 acres. Right now where I want to use your methods to create food plots, it's all weeds. What the step, before Part 1, when I have to kill weeds and get the green mulch growing so I can then "plant green" and crimp? Garry.
Garry - Congratulations on purchasing land in a neat area! The best approach an vary based on the species of weeds, etc. It may be necessary to use a herbicide to get off to a good start.
@@GrowingDeerTV so use the Roundup, and after everything dies plant either the summer or fall blend depending on time of year, correct? And plant right on top of the dead weeds? Is there a video of how to get started for the first time to get a crop that will become your first mulch after knocking it down, crimping?
Can you crimp right after seeding or do you need to wait a week?
David - Crimping should be timed so the seeds on the standing crop are in the dough state - fully formed and full of moisture, but not hard or viable yet. This can be just after drilling or wait a week or more until the dough stage.
Great video! 👍
Glad you liked it!
Thank you
You're welcome
where did you get your sun hat?
Sungrubbies.com!
Can you broadcast and roll it instead?
That works best on bare soil - where the seed will make contact with the soil as no vegetation is in the way.