I work in a fast paced production shop making dumpsters, typically running around 30@640 on 12ga sheet. I wish I had the time to go slow and actually do designs.
We do the same, but the machines are cranked up ALL the way on voltage and wire speed. It's VERY hard to find people to start no matter how much experience they have, they burn through as soon as they pull the trigger... Hell I still burn through, but I can start the "bead" over and go a Lil faster over the whole and fill it...
Bro I make dumpster and car haulers. we make 1 a day. Everyone does. I paint and put the axles and wire it up. I even cut my own stuff and weld it I bust my ass
I’m doing 3mm sheet for bins, we set a nice outside corner every join and flip the bin to suit a vertical down, manage to get some nice looking beads with good penetration.
Someone who actually explains what their doing..... love it... hard to find with mig welding videos.... this is on point... you can tell your experienced
As a professional welder for 46 years ( and still going ) I have to say I almost never ' stack dimes '. I pay attention to the blending of the metals on either side of the weld plus heat flow and things like that, never dime stacking. I have worked a lot of different jobs welding things that need to be ' leak tested ' and seeing a weld like this I can't help but think how under every third or fourth ' dime ' there is a leak.
Its like a different tool for every job, Now granted I dont use it all the time but when your in chassis fab and not welding over 3/16" wall max square tubing it works pretty good. Not saying it works for every situation. I do break test with acid on all my processes and it faired pretty well with proper settings. Thanks for your input, I always consider everyone's knowledge!
I'm an underground mine foreman of 24 years and countryboy/hillbilly that agrees with watching the flow and doing whatever works to get consistent penetration and metals fused together as one. I guess it's easier said that when you are expected to do a job right and sometimes paying the price for wasted time and materials you're going to learn quickly or find the guy that knows what he's doing. Lol
@@berrymansir not really. A lot of it depends on WHERE you work, not so much what kind of welding you do. In 1970s I had a job ' squirt- gun welding' at a union shop, large plant, fast and furious and made pretty good cash for the time. After that job went away I got job at a small company doing much, much more detailed welds of all kinds but only made about half as much. That's where I really learned how to weld good. Then in 1990s I worked another union job everything from structural heavy iron tubing and channel to MIG welding stainless steel sheet without burning through and made okay money. I was only ' B ' rate welder, you needed to be ' A ' rate journeyman to make the bigger bucks. Last 20 years I have been working smaller company custom TIG welding and torch braze welding. I only make mediocre bucks but it's real easy going and I'm getting old. To make big dough you need to be pipe welder or work a big union car plant or something.
my dad had me welding since 13 building stuff around the house now i'm 52 been fabricating since welding is a valuable skill that I thank my dad to this day for teaching me and taking the time to really show me a skill where you work with high voltage and sparks and flame fire
Thats awesome, My dad started me around 12 and im 45 now still welding. My dad use to be a pipe fitter/welder for a power company for years, thanks for sharing and watching!!!!
Funny I’m watching this with the same exact welder next to me that my grandmother bought me in 1997 , it’s been through a lot including a house fire & it still runs awesome, I learned how to weld on this machine 26 years ago & im currently using it for my business. It’s a great welder
Thanks for the tips! I'm loving welding, got everything I need and have been making small things, tools in my shop. Practicing so I can build a tube chassis rig!
So this is my whole reason for getting into welding I’ve been watching cars and cameras a lot amd a lot of gokart fab watching fd champ mike essa build roll cages all I wanna be able to do is have a couple motors and be able to weld me up some chassis ultimate goal is building a 1000 cc cross cart buggy thing in the design of a rc car set up.. but my question is would a 120 volt welder be suitable for welding some steel tubing for a off road chassis and would y’all happen to know the desired tubing dimensions for building a cross cart I’ve read alot of different things and I’ve also seen people build mini bikes with Home Depot conduit I just wanna know the cheapest strongest steel
Thanks so much! Starting mig weld in two weeks in class and I can’t wait to try these. My stick weld sucks but I’ve mig before and hope I still got it!
Man, I went to school and learned about welding when I got my AAS in Autobody, and I was looking to get back into welding. This was an amazing refresher. Thank you so much, brother. 😊
The trick is... you want root penetration so the weld is a weld. Not a pretty bead profile with minimal electron transfer. A good strong weld will look great and be strong. Over ocilation for looks will bypass the strength of the two parent metals becoming one unit. Your video is a great tutorial for light applications for sure. Awesome work.
I bought a Miller cracker box stick welder and a 100’ roll of 6-3 wire to use as an extension cord 50 years ago . The wire eventual was used for different purposes but I still use the welder. Works great even now.It is a vvery solid machine.
Bro thanks so so much for the awsome weld view it’s so nice to finally see the puddle control amd handling I’ve been on a binge of welding videos amd this is the first I’ve actually been able to see amd understand how the pooling works I’m so greatfull brother thanks you made buying a welder not scary at all I’m super confident I can do this
miller welding machines are pretty good how i saw people recommend them to me even tho i have a Kemppi thats very old and it bugs alot i managed with the help of this video to stack such a fine weld, thank you
I'm currently in summer mig class this week is the last week of classroom. Next week I get to play with fire, this will give me a heads up. Thanks for sharing
My one and only welder. I also have the aluminum spool gun attachment that goes with it! I have fixed many aluminum diamond plate bumpers over the years. It does a pretty good job but of course a tig is better.
Thanks brother, I think I may make a video on shooting arc shots, it took me a year to figure out how and id like to share the process. Most guys won't share how they do it.
If I were doing that fillet, I would have the tip sticking out paste the nozzle 1/8". Don't touch the tip to the weld (of course). You won't believe how much better things are. Works great on flux core too. You can chamfer the insulator and/or pound a piece of pipe in the big end of the nozzle to swell it out so it will slide on further.
The ideal weld is smooth and clean inside and out. Do you ever find the "cursive e" method traps slag inside the weld? Outside appearance is a good indicator of quality, but the stacks of dimes come from the TIG process; there is no reason to mimic that appearance with MIG besides trying to impress people that don't understand what they are looking at.
Generally speaking, MIG doesn't create "slag" as we traditionally know it. The issue comes from dragging impurities BACK into the weld puddle. The silica glass that forms on a MIG weld will always float to the top. NOW, if you switch this over to flux cored wire, THAT is when you run the risk of slag inclusions in the weld.
Push or drag can give a good weld. You just need to know the basics of welding. The puddle, the toe and flow. I never did dime or nickle stacking cuz a good weld looks great.
The circle bead is a much tighter weld,that prevents less gas bubbles from forming inside the bead. I rarely run the zig zag beads unless I am filling bigger gaps on a joint. Your beads are nice an tight bro. Nice work!
I used to have the same machine for about the same time you had yours. But unfortunately some ahole broke into my shop and cleaned me out. Ain't Philly great gotta love the people that don't know how to work for their own stuff
3:00 No loop. Pull straight forward "getting out of the puddle." You will dig a trench, come straight back, stay in the grove but tilt tip over to the top, wire stays in the center, no loop. Stay still until the puddle starts to shake, then get out and move forward again. You should be able to count the number of times you step back. And get you should get a reliable length bead for stich welding.
Basically whip and pause. I'm okay at whip and pause but I'm better at a straight push. My whip and pause pulse spray transfer however looks immaculate lmao, gotta love pulse spray
I'm learning on a Millermatic 200, but it looks older than yours. There are seven welders at the shop, two of them are 480 volt machines that do stick, mig and tig, but that old Miller is the one everyone grabs.
Dimes, nickels whatever size circle mig weld always looks beautiful but is usually a waste of time. Go take a welding test at a place that's looking for welders and half of them will fail you. The important thing on any weld is the root. I went to school for welding and our instructor flat out told us not too lay dimes down.
Its like a tool in a toolbox, its not for every job. I mainly do automotive/race car fab not structural steel or pipeline weld. Now with that said not using the right heat range and joint prep will cause it to fail. Ive had my welds sail 50ft off a jump flip end over end and not break so they can be strong. The best thing to do is a break and etch test for every job and youll be fine. Thanks for watching!!
@@ACDesignsGarage completely agree. I guess my only comment back to it would be. Laying dimes down with a mig gun. Is usually what definies what someones primary occupation is. If a welder sees somebody laying dimes down, he knows that guys a mechanic. Now when they break open the tig gun it's a different story. And usually a sign of functioning art. Generally that's an indicator of somebody's skill level at welding. Also will show you difference between somebody who works on cars for a living and someone that gets thought to apply the same affect to airplanes....my only concern though is when someone gets thought to do this and thinks that it's the go to tool, and applys it to something structural. I've worked on boats, barge's, outdoor equipment. And ran into shops with mechanic's who don't know the difference. Then watched them apply dimes to Semi Tanks and have them think that they knew what they where doing because they'd been doing the same foolish thing for 23 years not realizing that the guy that was 15 years their junior was more educated on subject of welding then their 20+ years of Mig experience
Your not wanting or trying to stack dimes on your root and subsequent passes but your wanting to put a pretty cap. When it comes down to it if you can lay down quality weld just as fast but yours looks better to the eye your gonna get the job.
I'm not a professional on mig, but in my experience what I used to do is a little forward and backward movement, and it leaves a pretty good looking weld
I've tries every technique and I have found pulling straight then loop back a circle almost like putting a cap over it over and over makes the best looking weld although I cant afford gas so my results are from flux core ap may be different for gas welding
Just started mig welding and my welds hold but my girlfriend complains that im not laying dimes so im gonna practice on it and get better you explained it really well though
Yes it does help and also I think the flux inside the flux core wire causes alot of that. Flux core is awesome, but if you ever switch to the gas and solid core wire youll love it!!! Thank you for watching, if you have any questions let me know!!!
You shouldn’t never drag and/or (stack dimes) with mig welding. Dragging the nozzle doesn’t give the penetration needed you should push with mig. Any sort of weaving will cause weak spots in the weld and cover up porosity. It will also reduce penetration needed for a good weld.
Ive done several break and etch test and cant see any difference in penetration. Its all about your settings, you can do a cold weld pushing and not get good penetration
Less wire slower travel speed would really help the control for uniformity. Especially for a beginner, that's just my opinion. Also the old Miller transformer machines are way better to learn on than a digital inverter machine. Way to many settings on an inverter. Transformer #1-6 on heat and #0-70 or 80 on wire much easier. Learn stick out, travel speed and the crisp sound a good weld makes, in my opinion those are the three main things when learning how to weld. Stacking dimes can wait it's not an important skill in mig welding it just looks nice. When you can tig weld aluminum that's when stacking dimes matters.
Forget it Albert. Kids nowadays have to have digital and auto darkening hoods. I use a Fiber Metal with a 4-1/4" lens. My stick machine has an on/off switch and one knob. Lift arc on the TIG no polarity switch. In the pipe rack just swap the stinger and ground to go from TIG root to 7018 hot, filler and cap. I ant walking down no ladder to swap polarity.
@@davidrule1335 it sucks that it is a dieing art to be a welder. I keep a fiber-metal with a 13 for air arc. I do use auto darkening most of the time. It sucks how most people won't have the ability to set their own machines, because the program is the best for the situation. I can't run a mig with factory settings It just doesn't work for me. That is why in my opinion a transformer machine is the best to learn on. Then when you get to digital man you can make it do what you want because you understand the basics. When you can run a bead and the mig sounds like a tig with the hertz buzzing laying dimes.
@@albertpierce6263 When I'm tacking up fab work I can't see the layout lines with those hoods. Of course I've been blinded a few times in 30 years. But the auto hood, to me' is only good for the plasma. For that it's nice because you can dial in the shade you want. on your last point, I would call that "spraying" it in. Great penetration but some times awesome splatter balls!
Bead looks nice but remember stringers are stronger, if you focus the wire in the root and work hot and fast it's better for penetration. Manipulation is more necessary for out of position
Help :( I cannot see anything when welding, and even if line/pattern looks OK, I often go off the line, I tried ajusting the mask darkness, but it doesn't help. I kind of see like this at 7:47 , are you supposed to see better than what you can see in the video there ? How can you see the line ? Could normal lights help ? leds, projectors, etc.
Im thinking about doing a video in the next 2 weeks on that problem, I will say tape or mount a good LED flash light to the side of your welding helmet pointing towards the area to weld may help also good overhead lights helps, and also getting your face as close as you can get to the weld to see helps also. Hope this helped stay tuned for the video, thanks for watching!!!!!!
@@ACDesignsGarage I tried some things: cleaning mask inside out, getting closer to the welding, tried some projector lights but I think I need focused light. I also drew white dots and lines with marker on left and right of where my weld should go, that helped a bit, like a landing strip guide for planes :)
Hear how the welder “Stalls” or “skips” when you “jump” the joint..? Welding isn’t about looks… It’s about penetration. Concentration in the root joint of the weld is what’s crucial. Always start at the joint go out and back to the joint. Welding from edge to edge is like a caulk gun. Weld will only be on the surface not in the joint… cross section cut that and you’ll see exactly what I’m saying. A straight drag would be much better than trying to get fancy and whip the tip all over the plate… Straight drag focus’s directly on the root joint… not the edges… Been welding for 15 years and I’ve never “stacked dimes” once… 👍
I think its preference, i watched a video on weld.coms youtube where they tested it with a robot both ways then cut and x-rayed them both and said they was pretty equal. Here is the link if you want to watch ua-cam.com/video/QRhtjbFzWEc/v-deo.htmlsi=lVG-_oWhna5h1aY1
26.5 v 425 ipm .045 metal core and c8 gas at 45cfh would give you a beautiful weld in that position in about 3 whole seconds I know it's about mig but for anything 1/8th or thicker in position I run metal core faster deeper and less cleaning
My beads aint the greatest they getting better i wanna learn more love your video but i need them beads to look better down hill 😂 they make me mad that i just cap them 😂 when i think they too ugly 😂 thanks for sharing
@@ACDesignsGarage Reason I say this is over 40 yrs welding. And yes it can be a preference but most new welders tend to not move fast enough and shoot the wire into the puddle ( bad ) means your building up a puddle and not digging into fresh material. If you have about 10-15 deg push angle you will still see the puddle and where you are going you will also notice more dig and a flatter weld but you will get better pen.
Not hating....in a weld shop environment especially with a CWI present, the dime, nickel, whip, style can get rejected. Low throat, cold lap, drag cup may get you in trouble. Also, If you can afford 2 gases try 92/8 for hard wire carbon (E70 etc)
Yeah no biggie, in the light fab world im in, its pleanty strong enough for under 3/16 as long as you have your settings dialed, as for structural or heavy fab id use different methods.
Its all about watching the puddle. Most begining weldors looks at the arc not the puddle. It is the puddle that gecomes the "dime" when the weld cools.
Because humans are stupidly hard to come by, we started using MIG robots. We make complex aluminum tubing bodies. We had historically only welded aluminum using TIG (artfully I might add) and still do but we were forced to use robots to keep up with demand. The robot makes messy welds in comparison. Especially disturbing is the spatter. I am wondering if you could use air nozzles to blow the slag out of the way and quickly cooling the beads, so they do not stick. Has anyone ever tried this?
@@jamesgreene5342 Thanks! That's why I was asking! I expected something lol worthy. And its hard to explain but my thought was instead of blowing it directly at the tip... have the air nozzles basically attached to the weld head blowing in any direction but towards the weld (or reflecting in to). I am sure this is why more complicated than I can imagine so my real hope was someone would say, "We have a working model that does just that!" or someone would say, "We tried and failed."
My machine dont tell voltage its old lol, but it was on 2 and 70 on wire feed I think. I usually run this style a little hotter than you would normally. The oscillating of the mig gun is where you get that look, but since your going back over a weld you turn it up a little!!!
I work in a fast paced production shop making dumpsters, typically running around 30@640 on 12ga sheet. I wish I had the time to go slow and actually do designs.
Dang you slaying it, thats movin some metal. I bet you can lay down some slick beads!!!
We do the same, but the machines are cranked up ALL the way on voltage and wire speed. It's VERY hard to find people to start no matter how much experience they have, they burn through as soon as they pull the trigger... Hell I still burn through, but I can start the "bead" over and go a Lil faster over the whole and fill it...
Bro I make dumpster and car haulers. we make 1 a day. Everyone does. I paint and put the axles and wire it up. I even cut my own stuff and weld it I bust my ass
I’m doing 3mm sheet for bins, we set a nice outside corner every join and flip the bin to suit a vertical down, manage to get some nice looking beads with good penetration.
Yea we push out server cabs 50 + a day depending on what line you're on and I wish we had the time to make things pretty
Someone who actually explains what their doing..... love it... hard to find with mig welding videos.... this is on point... you can tell your experienced
Thank you very much for the kind words, hope it helps you!!!!!!
As a professional welder for 46 years ( and still going ) I have to say I almost never ' stack dimes '.
I pay attention to the blending of the metals on either side of the weld plus heat flow and things like that, never dime stacking.
I have worked a lot of different jobs welding things that need to be ' leak tested ' and seeing a weld like this I can't help but think how under every third or fourth ' dime ' there is a leak.
Its like a different tool for every job, Now granted I dont use it all the time but when your in chassis fab and not welding over 3/16" wall max square tubing it works pretty good. Not saying it works for every situation. I do break test with acid on all my processes and it faired pretty well with proper settings. Thanks for your input, I always consider everyone's knowledge!
@@ACDesignsGarage one thing for sure, almost every welding job has its own ' different ' processes.
I'm an underground mine foreman of 24 years and countryboy/hillbilly that agrees with watching the flow and doing whatever works to get consistent penetration and metals fused together as one. I guess it's easier said that when you are expected to do a job right and sometimes paying the price for wasted time and materials you're going to learn quickly or find the guy that knows what he's doing. Lol
Do you make a good amount of money?
@@berrymansir not really. A lot of it depends on WHERE you work, not so much what kind of welding you do.
In 1970s I had a job ' squirt- gun welding' at a union shop, large plant, fast and furious and made pretty good cash for the time.
After that job went away I got job at a small company doing much, much more detailed welds of all kinds but only made about half as much.
That's where I really learned how to weld good.
Then in 1990s I worked another union job everything from structural heavy iron tubing and channel to MIG welding stainless steel sheet without burning through and made okay money. I was only ' B ' rate welder, you needed to be
' A ' rate journeyman to make the bigger bucks.
Last 20 years I have been working smaller company custom TIG welding and torch braze welding.
I only make mediocre bucks but it's real easy going and I'm getting old.
To make big dough you need to be pipe welder or work a big union car plant or something.
my dad had me welding since 13 building stuff around the house now i'm 52 been fabricating since welding is a valuable skill that I thank my dad to this day for teaching me and taking the time to really show me a skill where you work with high voltage and sparks and flame fire
Thats awesome, My dad started me around 12 and im 45 now still welding. My dad use to be a pipe fitter/welder for a power company for years, thanks for sharing and watching!!!!
Funny I’m watching this with the same exact welder next to me that my grandmother bought me in 1997 , it’s been through a lot including a house fire & it still runs awesome, I learned how to weld on this machine 26 years ago & im currently using it for my business. It’s a great welder
I got mine in 94 or 95 and shes still my favorite lol
What kind of welder did she buy you?
That was infinitely helpful. I appreciate this video. Thank you for sharing some very useful information.
Thank you for watching!!!
Thanks for the tips! I'm loving welding, got everything I need and have been making small things, tools in my shop. Practicing so I can build a tube chassis rig!
Thats awesome, I've want to build me a tube buggy also. Thanks for watching
So this is my whole reason for getting into welding I’ve been watching cars and cameras a lot amd a lot of gokart fab watching fd champ mike essa build roll cages all I wanna be able to do is have a couple motors and be able to weld me up some chassis ultimate goal is building a 1000 cc cross cart buggy thing in the design of a rc car set up.. but my question is would a 120 volt welder be suitable for welding some steel tubing for a off road chassis and would y’all happen to know the desired tubing dimensions for building a cross cart I’ve read alot of different things and I’ve also seen people build mini bikes with Home Depot conduit I just wanna know the cheapest strongest steel
Thanx I'm in welding school and now I'm ready to show off with these new tips 😂😂😂 thanx
Hahaha awesome!!!
6:24 no penetration. You have to get the arc out of the puddle, move forwards, dig a trench then go back and fill it in.
Not to mention he is not running hot enough to keep the air out
Thanks so much! Starting mig weld in two weeks in class and I can’t wait to try these. My stick weld sucks but I’ve mig before and hope I still got it!
Your very welcome, you got it, just practice practice practice!!!
Man, I went to school and learned about welding when I got my AAS in Autobody, and I was looking to get back into welding. This was an amazing refresher. Thank you so much, brother. 😊
Thank you for the kind words and for watching, if you get a chance check out my 1968 camaro play list, I do alot of custom paint work also.
The trick is... you want root penetration so the weld is a weld. Not a pretty bead profile with minimal electron transfer. A good strong weld will look great and be strong. Over ocilation for looks will bypass the strength of the two parent metals becoming one unit. Your video is a great tutorial for light applications for sure. Awesome work.
Thank you, yes its based on automotive applications like 3/16" and not structural applications.
I bought a Miller cracker box stick welder and a 100’ roll of 6-3 wire to use as an extension cord 50 years ago . The wire eventual was used for different purposes but I still use the welder. Works great even now.It is a vvery solid machine.
Thanks, I still have my old miller buzz box that was my first machine. They keep on goin!!!
Bro thanks so so much for the awsome weld view it’s so nice to finally see the puddle control amd handling I’ve been on a binge of welding videos amd this is the first I’ve actually been able to see amd understand how the pooling works I’m so greatfull brother thanks you made buying a welder not scary at all I’m super confident I can do this
Awesome so glad it helped!!!!!
Thanks for the tips , it sure refreshed my mind since I graduated from welding school in 2018.
Thank you for watching!!!!!
Sir you explained the best.
Thank you very much!!!!
i love how you set your amps and wire feed...so smooth
Thank you!!!!
Great video! I agree Jodi is one of the best. Good bless
Thank you !!!!!!
miller welding machines are pretty good how i saw people recommend them to me even tho i have a Kemppi thats very old and it bugs alot i managed with the help of this video to stack such a fine weld, thank you
Thats Awesome !!!!!
I'm currently in summer mig class this week is the last week of classroom. Next week I get to play with fire, this will give me a heads up. Thanks for sharing
Awesome good luck on your class!!!
“Break that stack of dimes you call a neck”
Stone Cold Steve Austin
My one and only welder. I also have the aluminum spool gun attachment that goes with it! I have fixed many aluminum diamond plate bumpers over the years. It does a pretty good job but of course a tig is better.
I also have the spool gun and it works pretty well, but im like you there is no substitute for tig lol
🙏Thank you so much for your time this is really helpful I’m taking classes for welding at the moment looking for a better $$ future
Your very welcome, thanks for watching, as for welding opportunities the sky's the limit, keep learnin and earnin!!!
Thank you for this. It’s really helped me.
Awesome so glad ut helped, thanks for watching!!!!!!
Adrian, thanks for the great tips, and I might have to use… like a bank teller on a Friday night!!! Thanks brother!!
Thanks brother, I think I may make a video on shooting arc shots, it took me a year to figure out how and id like to share the process. Most guys won't share how they do it.
@@ACDesignsGarage that would be awesome. Yours are the best I’ve ever seen.
Thank you! That helped me a lot! I’ve been looking for a video that would explain just how to manipulate the weld puddle.
Thank you for the kind words, hope it helped!!!
If I were doing that fillet, I would have the tip sticking out paste the nozzle 1/8". Don't touch the tip to the weld (of course). You won't believe how much better things are. Works great on flux core too. You can chamfer the insulator and/or pound a piece of pipe in the big end of the nozzle to swell it out so it will slide on further.
Awesome, thanks!!!
That is the best welders ever made I love em🙌
Id have to agree I got mine in 1994 and shes been a work horse ever since!!!
I have no idea how you recorded your arc shots, but those are incredible. I watch Jodie too. I get a lot out of his instructions.
Yeah I've learned alot from his video's!!!!!
I think he's recording the arc shots through that other helmet that's on the table
@@beastwolf7 that’s a good possibility. Sure we’re good videos
@@beastwolf7 you are correct, im gonna try and do a video on my settings on my camera for the welding sheild, thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the video. Lovin the FMF sticker on your hood. Braaaap
Hahaha thanks that sticker is probably 20 years old hahahaha
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thank you for watching!!!!
Great video; thank you!
Thank you for watching!!!!!!
Im currently in school and right now my majority of welds looked bad lol. But this is very helpful thank you
Awesome thanks for watching!!!
While armed with a MIG gun in your hand you're an artist. When armed with a Sharpie .....Uuuh,.. not so much!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Hahahaha thanks!!!
Very interesting video. Thanks for sharing. I'm learning to weld thicker material at the moment sawtooth reminds me of walking the c
Yeah its similar, I love walking the cup with tig, tig is my favorite process by far!!!
U should just seam it
@@liamadvena2921 Just showing people how to do this process.
We watched your video in our welding class. Great video.
Thank you, hope they wasn't using me as a example to show what not to do hahahahahaha
The ideal weld is smooth and clean inside and out. Do you ever find the "cursive e" method traps slag inside the weld? Outside appearance is a good indicator of quality, but the stacks of dimes come from the TIG process; there is no reason to mimic that appearance with MIG besides trying to impress people that don't understand what they are looking at.
Generally speaking, MIG doesn't create "slag" as we traditionally know it. The issue comes from dragging impurities BACK into the weld puddle. The silica glass that forms on a MIG weld will always float to the top. NOW, if you switch this over to flux cored wire, THAT is when you run the risk of slag inclusions in the weld.
Also makes for a weaker weld with less penetration.
Yep
I was doing mig today for vertical I was doing upside down v and it worked really good for me
Love your hair. The car is nice too!
I like both, the saw tooth is what I like useing when I want to go faster, but the stack of dimes looks better
I agree 100%, thank you for watching!!
Push or drag can give a good weld. You just need to know the basics of welding. The puddle, the toe and flow. I never did dime or nickle stacking cuz a good weld looks great.
The circle bead is a much tighter weld,that prevents less gas bubbles from forming inside the bead. I rarely run the zig zag beads unless I am filling bigger gaps on a joint. Your beads are nice an tight bro. Nice work!
Thank you very much!!!!!
Awesome video
Thank you very much!!!!
Great video.
Thank you!!!
Amazing!!!👌
Thank you!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Thank you very much!!!!!
I used to have the same machine for about the same time you had yours. But unfortunately some ahole broke into my shop and cleaned me out. Ain't Philly great gotta love the people that don't know how to work for their own stuff
Dang I hate to hear that man, people can be awful. Thanks for watching and support 🙏
Thanks for sharing. Cursive e is better looking in my opinion. Both examples was great 👍
Thats my favorite also!!!!
3:00 No loop. Pull straight forward "getting out of the puddle." You will dig a trench, come straight back, stay in the grove but tilt tip over to the top, wire stays in the center, no loop. Stay still until the puddle starts to shake, then get out and move forward again. You should be able to count the number of times you step back. And get you should get a reliable length bead for stich welding.
Thanks for the tips! That process is what I call whip and pause, gonna do a video on it this week.
Basically whip and pause. I'm okay at whip and pause but I'm better at a straight push. My whip and pause pulse spray transfer however looks immaculate lmao, gotta love pulse spray
I'm learning on a Millermatic 200, but it looks older than yours. There are seven welders at the shop, two of them are 480 volt machines that do stick, mig and tig, but that old Miller is the one everyone grabs.
Yeah I love my millers, those 200s are work horses for sure!!!
Dimes, nickels whatever size circle mig weld always looks beautiful but is usually a waste of time. Go take a welding test at a place that's looking for welders and half of them will fail you. The important thing on any weld is the root. I went to school for welding and our instructor flat out told us not too lay dimes down.
Its like a tool in a toolbox, its not for every job. I mainly do automotive/race car fab not structural steel or pipeline weld. Now with that said not using the right heat range and joint prep will cause it to fail. Ive had my welds sail 50ft off a jump flip end over end and not break so they can be strong. The best thing to do is a break and etch test for every job and youll be fine. Thanks for watching!!
@@ACDesignsGarage completely agree. I guess my only comment back to it would be. Laying dimes down with a mig gun. Is usually what definies what someones primary occupation is. If a welder sees somebody laying dimes down, he knows that guys a mechanic. Now when they break open the tig gun it's a different story. And usually a sign of functioning art. Generally that's an indicator of somebody's skill level at welding. Also will show you difference between somebody who works on cars for a living and someone that gets thought to apply the same affect to airplanes....my only concern though is when someone gets thought to do this and thinks that it's the go to tool, and applys it to something structural. I've worked on boats, barge's, outdoor equipment. And ran into shops with mechanic's who don't know the difference. Then watched them apply dimes to Semi Tanks and have them think that they knew what they where doing because they'd been doing the same foolish thing for 23 years not realizing that the guy that was 15 years their junior was more educated on subject of welding then their 20+ years of Mig experience
Your not wanting or trying to stack dimes on your root and subsequent passes but your wanting to put a pretty cap. When it comes down to it if you can lay down quality weld just as fast but yours looks better to the eye your gonna get the job.
Your cursive E is awesome
Thank you very much!!!!!
I'm not a professional on mig, but in my experience what I used to do is a little forward and backward movement, and it leaves a pretty good looking weld
Yeah it works well also, I do it that way sometimes!!!
I do the same. Its commonly known as the "whip and pause" technique.
@brianwalker1933 Ueah I like to use it alot in high visible areas on car chassis
I've tries every technique and I have found pulling straight then loop back a circle almost like putting a cap over it over and over makes the best looking weld although I cant afford gas so my results are from flux core ap may be different for gas welding
Thanks for watching, I thought about shooting a video on stacking dimes with flux core soon . Make sure to subscribe to follow along!
Thanks! That's the exact same problem I was having. Now my welds don't look like cat yak.
Hahahaha yaks are bad, hope it helped lol
I like both
Thank you!!!!!!
Try making a recent, and build upon it with more crecents
Nice video, subscribed :)
Thank you very much!!!!!
Did you do a cut and etch or destructive test to confirm proper penetration. .?
Even just breaking the bead will tell you if you penetrated properly. Which I doubt ANY of these welds did.
Put a 1/4" filet gauged in the lowest part of the bead and it will bust out in the center.
Just started mig welding and my welds hold but my girlfriend complains that im not laying dimes so im gonna practice on it and get better you explained it really well though
Hahaha thats awesome, you got this!!!!!
I’m guessing the argon helps with the spatter? I’m learning how to weld with flux core, and the spatter is off the charts sometimes.
Yes it does help and also I think the flux inside the flux core wire causes alot of that. Flux core is awesome, but if you ever switch to the gas and solid core wire youll love it!!! Thank you for watching, if you have any questions let me know!!!
You shouldn’t never drag and/or (stack dimes) with mig welding. Dragging the nozzle doesn’t give the penetration needed you should push with mig. Any sort of weaving will cause weak spots in the weld and cover up porosity. It will also reduce penetration needed for a good weld.
Ive done several break and etch test and cant see any difference in penetration. Its all about your settings, you can do a cold weld pushing and not get good penetration
Less wire slower travel speed would really help the control for uniformity. Especially for a beginner, that's just my opinion. Also the old Miller transformer machines are way better to learn on than a digital inverter machine. Way to many settings on an inverter. Transformer #1-6 on heat and #0-70 or 80 on wire much easier. Learn stick out, travel speed and the crisp sound a good weld makes, in my opinion those are the three main things when learning how to weld. Stacking dimes can wait it's not an important skill in mig welding it just looks nice. When you can tig weld aluminum that's when stacking dimes matters.
Forget it Albert. Kids nowadays have to have digital and auto darkening hoods. I use a Fiber Metal with a 4-1/4" lens. My stick machine has an on/off switch and one knob. Lift arc on the TIG no polarity switch. In the pipe rack just swap the stinger and ground to go from TIG root to 7018 hot, filler and cap. I ant walking down no ladder to swap polarity.
@@davidrule1335 it sucks that it is a dieing art to be a welder. I keep a fiber-metal with a 13 for air arc. I do use auto darkening most of the time. It sucks how most people won't have the ability to set their own machines, because the program is the best for the situation. I can't run a mig with factory settings It just doesn't work for me. That is why in my opinion a transformer machine is the best to learn on. Then when you get to digital man you can make it do what you want because you understand the basics. When you can run a bead and the mig sounds like a tig with the hertz buzzing laying dimes.
@@albertpierce6263 When I'm tacking up fab work I can't see the layout lines with those hoods. Of course I've been blinded a few times in 30 years. But the auto hood, to me' is only good for the plasma. For that it's nice because you can dial in the shade you want. on your last point, I would call that "spraying" it in. Great penetration but some times awesome splatter balls!
I like dragging the welding gun also
I 100% agree with you!!!!
Thanks for the tips, time to practice.
Awesome hope it helps you, thanks for watching!!!!!!
If you were to make a sharpie line as reference on the steel, would it burn off as your welding? I think it would help me keep the same z pattern
Yes it should be fine also you can try soap stone!!!
No comment I'm a pipe fitter don't mess around with a squirt gun
great
Thank you!!!!!!
The important thing (always) is for the forward motion to include the root of the weld. Don't want the puddle to roll over the root.
Many welders on ship yards I've worked on (flux core 1.6 wire) drag the cap. 6gr London calling
@@zukispur5493 yep Flux core digs deep the occasion isn't as important as some other types of welding Flux cored wore is pretty foregiveig
@@johnkizziah108 yep. Femax iron power rods are used on most shipyards also on the hori fillets
@@johnkizziah108 ever tig rooted a pipe feeding the filler rod from inside the pipe (through the gap)
@@johnkizziah108 ever welded from the outside in striking arcs with both hands?
I weld on tanker cars, wish we ran slow enough on the jacket patches for this kind of work.
It a honor to have someone with your experience on here!!!!!
Bead looks nice but remember stringers are stronger, if you focus the wire in the root and work hot and fast it's better for penetration. Manipulation is more necessary for out of position
I totally agree, I use this method on car chassis and light fabrication for the looks, but on structural I use stringers. Thanks for watching!!
Where do you get the chart on the side of your welder, is that manufacturer specific?
That one came on my welder but I looked up one for you online, ill put the link below
images.app.goo.gl/UgCL6r3qMnxR2Noq6
Where is that killer rockabilly song from at the end of the video?
Its from epidemic sound, its a copyright free place to get youtube music
great tips, thank you brother
Thank you and thanks for watching!!!
Help :( I cannot see anything when welding, and even if line/pattern looks OK, I often go off the line, I tried ajusting the mask darkness, but it doesn't help. I kind of see like this at 7:47 , are you supposed to see better than what you can see in the video there ?
How can you see the line ?
Could normal lights help ? leds, projectors, etc.
Im thinking about doing a video in the next 2 weeks on that problem, I will say tape or mount a good LED flash light to the side of your welding helmet pointing towards the area to weld may help also good overhead lights helps, and also getting your face as close as you can get to the weld to see helps also. Hope this helped stay tuned for the video, thanks for watching!!!!!!
@@ACDesignsGarage I tried some things: cleaning mask inside out, getting closer to the welding, tried some projector lights but I think I need focused light. I also drew white dots and lines with marker on left and right of where my weld should go, that helped a bit, like a landing strip guide for planes :)
Use soapstone to trace weld joint.
3:14 Um... no... I'm the best welder around. And I know he will agree.
Reading the puddle
Hear how the welder “Stalls” or “skips” when you “jump” the joint..? Welding isn’t about looks… It’s about penetration. Concentration in the root joint of the weld is what’s crucial. Always start at the joint go out and back to the joint. Welding from edge to edge is like a caulk gun. Weld will only be on the surface not in the joint… cross section cut that and you’ll see exactly what I’m saying. A straight drag would be much better than trying to get fancy and whip the tip all over the plate… Straight drag focus’s directly on the root joint… not the edges… Been welding for 15 years and I’ve never “stacked dimes” once… 👍
Dime stacking is American nonsense 🌚
Wrong!
When running the weld and it’s glowing behind my run or last e loop, is that mean I’m running to slow?
It should be glowing a little or fading away, if your to hot your welds will look real grey with a flat finish. Hope this helps!!
I was told never drag/pull unless it's fluxcore.always push your weld if not fluxcore?is this correct?
I think its preference, i watched a video on weld.coms youtube where they tested it with a robot both ways then cut and x-rayed them both and said they was pretty equal. Here is the link if you want to watch
ua-cam.com/video/QRhtjbFzWEc/v-deo.htmlsi=lVG-_oWhna5h1aY1
26.5 v 425 ipm .045 metal core and c8 gas at 45cfh would give you a beautiful weld in that position in about 3 whole seconds I know it's about mig but for anything 1/8th or thicker in position I run metal core faster deeper and less cleaning
Thanks for the tip!!!!!
My beads aint the greatest they getting better i wanna learn more love your video but i need them beads to look better down hill 😂 they make me mad that i just cap them 😂 when i think they too ugly 😂 thanks for sharing
Hahahaha thanks for watching!!!
dragging is a cold weld. The wire needs to be out front pushing to get good pen.
We have done cut and etch on both ways and I dont see a difference.
@@ACDesignsGarage Reason I say this is over 40 yrs welding. And yes it can be a preference but most new welders tend to not move fast enough and shoot the wire into the puddle ( bad ) means your building up a puddle and not digging into fresh material. If you have about 10-15 deg push angle you will still see the puddle and where you are going you will also notice more dig and a flatter weld but you will get better pen.
Great video bro ,thanks again!
Thank you very much for the support 👍 🙏
I’m a new apprentice millwright .so I will be tuning in
@@Fretnoisemusic awesome thank you!!!!!
👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching
I don’t see anyone posting one on how to do from right to left going side to side because my work runs hot
loop to the beat
For sure
I use ,052 mig wire and 7/64 flux wire
Not hating....in a weld shop environment especially with a CWI present, the dime, nickel, whip, style can get rejected. Low throat, cold lap, drag cup may get you in trouble. Also, If you can afford 2 gases try 92/8 for hard wire carbon (E70 etc)
Yeah no biggie, in the light fab world im in, its pleanty strong enough for under 3/16 as long as you have your settings dialed, as for structural or heavy fab id use different methods.
Awesome job
Thanks brother
Its all about watching the puddle. Most begining weldors looks at the arc not the puddle. It is the puddle that gecomes the "dime" when the weld cools.
So true, its hard to get people to watch the puddle!!!
👍🏻
Amen
Thanks for watching!!!!!!
3:14 did You saw jodie at tips n tricks??
I love watching jody, I watch him all the time!!!!
Sorry i meant to ask if You said Jodie tips n tricks but i already looked him up! 👍🏼
Im learning to weld and wanted to know what patterns to apply while i'm welding.
FORWARD, BACK AND HOLD
REPEAT
Because humans are stupidly hard to come by, we started using MIG robots. We make complex aluminum tubing bodies. We had historically only welded aluminum using TIG (artfully I might add) and still do but we were forced to use robots to keep up with demand. The robot makes messy welds in comparison. Especially disturbing is the spatter. I am wondering if you could use air nozzles to blow the slag out of the way and quickly cooling the beads, so they do not stick. Has anyone ever tried this?
I have used the weld splatter spray . You spray it on your metal before you weld and it keeps the splatter from sticking to your work piece.
air nozzle will blow your shielding gas away and you will have the ugliest porous weld you ever did see lol
@@jamesgreene5342 Thanks! That's why I was asking! I expected something lol worthy. And its hard to explain but my thought was instead of blowing it directly at the tip... have the air nozzles basically attached to the weld head blowing in any direction but towards the weld (or reflecting in to). I am sure this is why more complicated than I can imagine so my real hope was someone would say, "We have a working model that does just that!" or someone would say, "We tried and failed."
@@ACDesignsGarage useless when it comes to low hydrogen rods
what is your voltage and wire speed again?
My machine dont tell voltage its old lol, but it was on 2 and 70 on wire feed I think. I usually run this style a little hotter than you would normally. The oscillating of the mig gun is where you get that look, but since your going back over a weld you turn it up a little!!!
Everyone has their own way in how they weld but I've always pushed my wire and dragged my stick
Ive done it both ways and couldn't tell a big difference with mig except for I can see better draggin it.
What was causing the splatter?
I guess just the process of mig welding. Thats why I prefer Tig welding, no splatter!!!
Can you send me a picture/ screens hot of that cheatsheet inside your rig/ miller matic? I'm about to start at a company and that would help alot!
Sorry just saw this, you can search mig welding cheat sheet and find really good ones!!!!