I bought 3 different airbrushes that were $25-40 and had a few issues and cleaning was a nightmare. Decided to drop a buckfifty on iwata eclipse and WOW! The difference is night and day. Amazing atomization and so easy to clean.
Take those needles from the cheap set and polish them a few times with brasso or similar product (It's the difference between the prices on name brands, the level they go to with polishing). It's a commonly known issue with most experienced Airbrushers, though they still over sell the ones they paid thru the nose for. Polish those needles with a metal polish and you'll be getting a huge improvement on the cheap ones and they will perform like the expensive ones every time. Obviously the more you pay the better you get, however with elbow grease which is mostly free ;) You can get on par with those $700 ones minus the super fine detail as they typically use really small needles as stated. Also use the correct paint medium for the needle you are using, over thinning is a bad habit to get into as you'll lose paint quality the more you thin, over thinning is best used for shading and blending but do whatever works best in your setup.
@@jasonbruney8842 you would definitely be able to paint fine details and pinpoint eyes with it. I haven’t used mine or any airbrush in quite a while and I’m no pro, but I did do a lot of research and decided on the eclipse. It has been a year though there maybe something cheaper that is just as good. Good luck!
Handy hint: Harder and Steenbeck's Ultra is their 'entry level' airbrush, costs around £60-£80 GBP... but in the grand scheme of things, it's a mid-range airbrush that is lightyears ahead of the cheap, unbranded Amazon airbrushes. Harder and Steenbeck don't advertise this fact, but the needles, nozzles and air caps for the Ultra are 100% interchangeable with their (far more expensive) Infinity and Evo brushes. Basically, buy an Ultra, spend the extra £25 on an Infinity needle, nozzle and air cap set and get 90% of the way to an Infinity for less than half the price.
I was looking at those H&S airbrushes and I notice they don't have a micro air adjuster. Surely that would be a basic feature? I don't know much about airbrushes but my cheapo Chinese airbrush has a micro adjuster.
@@herculeholmes504 H&S uses for micro air adjusting extra part which is called fPc valve. Of course, just this part alone cost around 30 euros, but it is interchangeable between their product line. Probably the best bang for the bucks is their Evolution Silverline fPc Two in One airbrush. It lacks only trigger sensitivity adjustment and end piece with dial against Infinity. Something that is not really essential to get the best result. As Helmet mentioned before you can easily swap needles with nozzles and put fork diffuser and viola you have Infinity performance. So basically, you can start with the cheapest Evolution airbrush and make upgrades to the level of Infinity in terms of performance except for trigger sensitivity and end piece with the dial. Not that it is worth trying to do that because every extra part costs you money and the final sum can easily add up to the cost of the cheapest Infinity. I also bought one of these cheap (but the most expensive one) Chinese airbrushes with MAC valve like you because I was curious about them. I made several adjustments/fixes to this airbrush, but I still can't get the performance of my H&S airbrushes. Anyway, it's still not totally worthless as it sprays at least primer color nicely.
Pro-Artist here, a couple of questions/remarks: 1. Got myself one of the no-brand ones with tank. Works great. When starting out I’d really recommend getting one of those, because you’ll be less afraid to take it apart (which you’re going to have to do anyways for maintenance, just like a motorcycle). 2. Been using mine for two years now, and only recently ran into the problem some might face: the rubber gaskets tend to deconstruct themselves with intensive use and cleaning with alcohol-based solutions. Which in itself is not that troublesome, were it not for the fact that - because it is a no-name (Timbertech) model, I have no idea how to order the right parts to replace this. 3. Totally agree with the reviewer (his channel has been a goldmine when researching how to use this medium properly, for even though I’m used to all kinds of paints and cans, this is much more precise). What I would consider in an upgrade though, is the ease of disassembly/reach towards components and fragility of individual parts. My brush has a specific angle under the back end of the compartment (where the pen goes into the trigger/spring-room) that I just can’t reach at all. Especially with metallic paints, these tend to clog up everything in no time (either by drying or leaving residue), and in a future purchase I’d love to be able to reach all that stuff without a lot of ‘special tools and tricks’. Just making it all more durable. So: expensive one or cheap one: it depends on experience and ambitions. But neither one is so bad you can’t make great work with them. Anyway, that’s my thoughts. If anyone has an answer to finding those (rubber) gaskets: that’d be greaaaattt. Cheers!
Used a dirt cheep airbrush for ages and was generally pleased with the results but when I upgraded to a couple of Harder & Steenbecks ( the Evolution and the Infinity) I was absolutely blown away with their quality, ease of use and the fabulous results I get from them. I would love a top of the range Iwata but I just don't use my airbrushes often enough to justify the outlay. I have learnt so much watching your channel and have purchased a few (quite a few) templates that you have used in your various videos.
They probably don't need to be that expensive also. In reality they are probably made for 10 dollars and sold for hundreds....I make fire starters, special ones..the ones you get in store I can make my special ones and sell them for the same price as the store ones and still make mad profit.
I am an absolute beginner so this info was invaluable. I have started custom painting my fishing reels and its just something Iwant to develop. I appreciate quality.
Very useful advice! I got a airbrush compressor with tank combo about a year ago. I love the airbrush that came with it. It was a basic knockoff no brand model off of Amazon. I just recently got the Iwata Neo as a treat for myself sticking with this hobby. It was $60 USD. I added a flow control to the back to back off it and it is perfect for my skill level at the moment. I use it to do preshading on Gundam models. The thing that helps the most is proper mix ratio and keeping the airbrush clean! Also flow improver is the best additive for stopping tip dry for me. I love your videos! Great content, I enjoy practicing with you running in the background! You are a 100 times better at teaching this stuff than someone that uses them for Gundam models! Thanks!
Neo with the trigger was my first AB 2 years ago and it was nice, but I recently upgraded to a Harder & Steenbeck evo silverline and it's a lot better. Not sure if it was the jump to a traditional AB, or the Hs is that much better. With the .4 needle it smashes the finest line of the .35 of the neo. If i switch to the .2 needle i could preshade space marines like I do Gundam.
Thanks for your comment and glad to hear you enjoy my vids and the Neo is fantastic we use the HPCN in our classes. In regards to Gundam I’m planning on doing a vid on one of those in the future...need to polish up my skills a little more on my minis first as I only recently got back into painting them 👍🏻
I use an eclipse for miniature and static model paint jobs, and it’s brilliant, never lets me down. Quick colour changes and easy to clean and maintain, I put everything through it, varnishes, paints and metallics, the only time it goes wrong is when I screw up thinning ratios and pressures, but that’s my fault!
When I started airbrushing models and minis I first had a $40 Amazon China knockoff. It would clog and sputter and do all sorts of stuff that made airbrushing harder then it needed to be. Then I purchased a badger 105, a little better but not great. Then I got a paasche (can't remember the model) even better but still had issue. Then I purchased an Iwata Eclipse. It was like night and day difference. I would recommend the eclipse as your first brush. It's not too expensive and it's tough as nails. You can stick anything in it, shoot it all day and still get it clean without issues. Don't buy any other brush just get the eclipse.
You sir, are an amazing artist. A cheap airbrush can do damage to a beginner. But anyone that can effectively learn on a cheaper airbrush, surely has a bright future ahead. Best regards.
Hey John. Im wondering what exactly you have on your mind talking about damage to a begineer. Please elaborate. I never airbrushed and Im about to buy something.
@@thomasputko1080 a tool that does not run perfect will give us bad habits to compensate for whatever dysfunction the tool may have. out of all the air brushes that I bought the cheaper ones were one out of three were 98% perfect so you do have a chance of finding a cheaper airbrush that works perfect. or close to a very expensive airbrush. but a cheaper air brush can save you a small amount of money if you decide not to continue airbrushing. he just did a demo of an airbrush it was about $120 and I thought it was a bargain. if you decide to stick with airbrushing for whatever reason you like to do it, you will own dozens of airbrushes.
@@thomasputko1080 trigger, smoothness, parts not fitting correctly then the even missing parts. and these are all things that you will quickly learn to repair or overcome. and after three to six months no one will be able to tell but you if you use the $15 airbrush or a $600 airbrush honest.
Iwata Revolution is my workhorse, it's very dependable. I've tried cheaper and more expensive airbrushes from other brands (which I won't name) and had nothing but trouble. If I was going to upgrade, it would be to the Eclipse. But honestly, I think getting a more powerful compressor is higher priority for me.
I've been thinking about getting a cheap airbrush just for priming miniatures, because the weather in my location is all over the place, and I can't always use a rattle can. Then, after I learn how to use an airbrush, if the cheap one ever breaks, I might upgrade after that...
I have everything from Iwata neo, eclipse, hp, hi line and kustom. Everything is either b or c configuration. Skip the neo unless you are just checking out air brushing or you are a teacher and you need to respect the budget. Save up for an eclipse they will do far more for you and longer. my first one was finally retired after 5 years of daily use and my second after 8 years. I use an eclipse as my daily work horse. Frankly best bang for the buck. The hi line and hp are fine but the smaller needle is actually less versatile than an eclipse. But for miniatures and fine art it is the better set up. Now the onboard air pressure control is very niche, for the ammount the average person would use it, frankly it is not worth the money and just get better brush control. From a commercial standpoint it has serious value if you simply cannot afford to waste time or you need exact control. The kustoms are amazing you truly get what you pay for here. But you don't need it. These are like supercars trust me when I tell ya the eclipse aka a pick up truck will do you better 90% of the time. Yes I like breaking out my supercar and giving it a go on certain projects. But it is not my daily driver or work horse. frankly ya need good brush control and practice before you will ever see the true benefits of a kustom. So earn your stripes and don't waste your money on something that will lie to you.
I hope to see your take on needle size vs. paint type, seen a lot of Iwata users bash enamels for trying to get that thicker paint through an illustrator brush like Iwata's (Which is where those #5's come in handy and shine. Overthinning reduces luster and color depth, especially with Metallics and doing work with candies.
I'm just starting, and I bought a cheap ebay airbrush and was practicing, but I decided to upgrade to an iwata neo and it's a lot easier to use and I'm surprised how thin I can get lines with it. I've really been enjoying your channel and learning a lot. 👍👍
Fantastic breakdown here. I've yet to lay down a line but found the Badger patriot 105 on sale for black Friday. Got it for 70 usd. I mainly will be using it to base coat and clear coat but I was told it was a great starting brush. Appreciate the lesson and will be practicing on paper before going to my projects 😎👊
wow there really is a difference there.... now as a miniature painter, ive been exceedingly happy with my $12 ebay airbrush. I can turn the pressure down and paint small detail, but i would be genuinely curious what kind of detail could be painted on miniatures. Can you please make a video doing an airbrush only freehand on something small, like the armor panel of a titan! (about 2 inches squared) Great Videos and your art always amazes me. Thank you for what you do
Thanks for the video! I bought an Iwata Neo as my first and an expensive compressor. I regret nothing, although I did need to do a lot of video watching to get more confident and learn how to maintain my airbrush.
I am using a cheap one atm, it came with my air compressor from eBay or Amazon, it’s great practice, I have bent a needle but it came with 3 different needles so easy to swap over to a new one, Ive ordered a second 20$ Sturbridge like the one I use here, it’s gonna be a back up airbrush but might use it for oil paints too, I do miniature painting… but I’ve also ordered one of the new Squidmar airbrushes, harder steenbeck I think is the brand, it’s a beautiful airbrush and coz I’ve been using the cheap one I know the squidmar ones design and features will be great for what I do 😁🐶
I use full size spray guns and some mini guns for spot repairs , I’m also just trying my hand at air brushing, this video helped a lot I started two years ago with a compressor and two air brushes sold at Aldi (lol I know) Taking it more seriously now I have had my eye on getting an Iwata Eclipse( most of my spray guns are Iwata , so your video definitely cemented what I thought
ALDI sell some excellent tools they are often German made. I have a landscaping company I buy all my pruning saws and loppers from them, I have a couple of powered branch pruners still going strong after 2 years. Their screwdrivers are very good.
Hmmm... I found that the principle concern with my cheap Chinese airbrush was that the needle and nozzle were not centrally aligned in the shroud. This caused uneven airflow over the needle and nozzle, and odd spray patterns (I had to insert some needle-nose pliers into the brass end and push things into alignment, which felt rough and damaging but only required tiny adjustments). That seems to be what is wrong with your cheap airbrush too, given how that first circle you painted came out. Also, the machining of the screw threads is a bit loose and so small quantities of plumber's PTFE tape can help seal the joints in the airflow path and help prevent drops in pressure. The fact is that the expensive tools are guaranteed to work out-of-the-box, and perfectly, or your money back. The cheap ones are so cheap because they were designed and assembled in the quickest and cheapest manner possible, so alignment issues and poor joints will affect performance. Cheap airbrushes can be recovered into something surprisingly good if you know what to look for and how to fix.
Thanks for the video, I'm just looking to get some low buildup paint and dye on my woodturning and this has cleared up A LOT of confusion. I'll start with an El Cheapo and if I need to I'll certainly spend extra on a decent mid range one. Great video and I'm now off to see more of your work.
That no-name cheap brand...found on Amazon for about $13-15 US...is ALL I USE...and i believe the paint videos i post show the "quality" of the brush itself...its all about the skills of the artist moreso that the cost of the tools... Us artists cannot atress this enough!
I’ve never used an actual good airbrush I I airbrushed my first two skulls using templates the other day I bought the $20 harbor freight deluxe about a year ago and it’s definitely sketchy at times think I’m about ready to upgrade to an Iwata Thanks for the videos really appreciate all the info and knowledge👍😎
Have you tried if the Iwata Needle/Nozzle setup fits into the cheap one? I am sure it would be a LOT better and nice compromise price/performance wise. If it does, please make a short video of it. :)
Doesn't matter the only advantage the Iwata needle has as it's super polished from the factory hence the cost, you can polish the cheap ones with a good metal polish compound like brasso or similar product and remove the micro pits that cause the detail loss. A few run with polishing really good will make those cheapos perform on par with the best of them, minus any added on gimmicks the expensive ones have. It is nice to say I have an Iwata but really it impresses no one, the work does.
I have a master g233 only cost 35 dollars in the United States cleaning is a bit hard but that is because I only spend like 2 minutes cleaning so giving a deep clean wouldn't be too bad but it has lasted about 1 and a half years now very pleased with it
If you properly reduce your paint along with a good compressor with a holding tank. You really could get away with using an Eclipse CS for everything. The big misconception, is nozzle size. The .35 on the Eclipse is a dual taper design which aids in very fine detail. Also the Eclipse uses a multi hole head assembly like the Micron does. Dollar for dollar, nothing will beat the atomization or performance of any of the Eclipse models. The cheaper brushes will not atomize like an iwata. There are some good brands out there but there are just too many advantages with the Eclipse. A big one that i didn't mention is the durability of the dual taper needle it is not easily bent. Which is a huge benefit. Especially for beginners
I didn't get my first make run until after I've been airbrushing probably maybe 10 years I just couldn't see spending that money but after I got one it was well worth it and of course the learning curve with it after 10 years of airbrushing wasn't very much but I do not recommend this airbrush for a beginner it's too sensitive of an airbrush and they're not going to get the performance that they think they're going to get I recommend maybe a iwatas neo is a good choice for a beginner if they want to gravity feed airbrush which I always recommended to my students gravity feeds because they just do so much better when I paint cars I'm using a gravity feed paint gun I find gravity feed to be the best way to go with any type of sprained device anyway I hope you have a blessed day that the living Lord Jesus Christ bless you and your endeavor to help people understand about airbrushing
Great video, very informative and good for the first timer, it was a real refresher for me since I have not beemn steady at using my airbrush as I to many projects in the loop, thatnk mate!
Any airbrush and any dilution i use i cannot avoid the paint dust and grainy surfaces. I used a chinese 0,3, a Neo CN for Iwata 0,35, HS Infinity CR Plus 0,15 and 0,4, Iwata HP CP 0,2 and 0,3, a Tamiya HG TR 0,3. But when i used a Iwata LPH 50 i eliminated the problem almost entirely.
Why arent there more micron users using CSI Creos Mr.Hobby's PS-770 micron. It is about half the price of an Iwata, manufactured in the same factory as the custom micron and performs every bit as well; same design & same manufacturer. Anyone wanting to experience a micron and do not have a few kidney to sell should really take a look at the PS-770 (if you dont mind gravity feed).
El cheapo brushes are a false economy - if nothing else they're very hard to clean because of the small pieces in the nozzle construction. There's a price point between the Eclipse (fine brush indeed) and the cheapo. Brushes for about $60 US include the Chinese made Iwata Neo, the USA made Paasche VLS, the Paasche Talon: Badger also makes an entry level double and single action brush. Ditto Sparmax. Figure about $100 for the entry level Harder Steenbeck Evolution series. Anyway, I'd sure spend the extra $30 to get a Neo or VLS over a no-name cheapo.
Question you mentioned miniatures. If we are talking not just undercoating but painting the entire miniature doing shadows, highlights etc etc (and here i am talking tabletop miniatures of the kind Games Workshop, Privateer Press, Wyrd Games among others produces). Would the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse be the one you recommend buying?
So I started of with a NEO Iwata and I don't know what it is I do but I eat through Nozzles at a rate of 1 a year and the damn things cost about £17 a pop. So last year I bought a mig cobra brush and the AK basic line Brush when it was in a sale for €29 with the idea of well if its crap it will just get used for priming models and varnish and that takes stress off the cobra's usage. Thing I noticed though was the price of nozzles on both were €5, much cheaper. Been over a year now, only use the cobra for fine detail and the AK is just a work horse, I find it to be the equal of the Neo Iwata but cheaper and cheaper parts, and as of yet no issue with the nozzle which is a pain as I bought 3 spare nozzles in a sale (paid less than €10). Maybe the Neo Iwata arnt good quality? or I did buy an ultra sonic cleaner so maybe that's made a difference. But as it is now the iwata is just in it box in a draw with a broken nozzle.
The Neo is made FOR Iwata which is stated clearly on the packaging and not made BY Iwata and although they carry the Iwata brand name they are not in the same class nor as high a quality as a true made by Iwata airbrush. The Neo was made so Iwata could have an airbrush line in the budget price point range. Apparently Iwata does not feel they can make an airbrush in their facility at the needed price point and make a profit on it so they farm out the cheaper models. Having and using an Iwata Neo is not the same experience as having and owning an Iwata Eclipse, HPC or Micron series brush but neither does it damage the bank account to the same degree.
@@AirbrushAsylum I usually order through Everythingairbrush.com from the UK, due to their prices are cheap with their money, the pound, but I use the conversion chart to see how cheap they are from the USA. I get a better price by ordering through Everythingairbrush on most of my stuff that I need, like stencils and airbrushes and what not. I tried to get an aircompressor from them, but I couldn't due to the weight and the shipping charges. Things will change here after the election and Trump wins for a second term. All hell is breaking loose here in the US right now.
Really?? No Paasche in the mix? You can get VL Double Action Airbrush set for between $60.00 - $70.00 US and it's a great mid-range airbrush and lasts forever, and can do just about any job from starter to Pro.
I always wonder why some people just don't mention you can get passche and badger American made airbrushes way cheaper than iwata I think they just haven't used any
It would be refreshing if in the title, you had included "for professional artists", as for most people, that use it for model making, any of the expensive ones are only triple overkill. My most expensive one to date is a Badger 100, I've had and used it for more than twenty years, the results are perfectly acceptable. I believe the modelers are probably at least 80% of the total airbrush users, either of the high buck models you displayed would be only "status", not capability.
A lot of the better miniature painters use an Iwata Eclipse level brush. (150-200USD range) It's definitely worth it for fine detail work. I agree that I don't know that I could ever justify a micron unless I was a professional...
I'm getting into airbrushing soon. I draw somewhat frequently and have wanted to learn how to airbrush. But, what airbrush would be best for airbrushing motorcycles or other vehicles?
@@AirbrushAsylum alright thank you! I was actually looking at getting the hp-c plus for my first airbrush because I have the money and I was looking at it as an investment and figured since I have the money I'd get something that is supposed to be really good. And will last me for awhile. My plan is to do shoes for money bedroom walls (or any kind of walls really), motorcycle gas tanks, vehicles, shirts, whatever really haha so I figured that the hp-c plus was the best route but the research I've done says between the two hp's the one you suggested had a broader span which would be good for getting bigger areas like vehicles/walls etc. But the plus was finer detailed. And I thought just get the plus and I'll just make so and have to just spend more time on getting everything but atleast it'll be finer.
Buy the best brush you can afford. Anything from Iwata is better than almost everything else. Seriously. I have the HP, revolution, and eclipse. I also have a badger, and two Pasche brushes.
Thank you for the video. Great comparison on the subject. I own some microns and some olympos ones as well. I got the eclipse in different flavors but love side chips like the SB ones. One of my cheaper airbrushes is a Volcano that’s works pretty close to what a moron is. STILL, i would love to see you achieve all detail you do while using Createx paint LOL. Specially under low pressure! I’ve used your tips to thin down my crates paint and would like to thank you, it helped a lot but the paint itself does way too quick cause the dry tip ECT way too quickly but definitely I’m getting better mileage with your tip. Thank you!
No I haven’t had any experience with the master kits but I have heard lots of people have used them , I may need to get my hands on one so I can give it a try 👍🏻
I’m an absolute beginner but do have a background in tattoo artistry for the last 12 years. Do you have any pointers for where I should go to start learning this type of art? I’m very interested in learning
I have the HS infinity cr plus ver 2. I am relatively new to airbrushing, I did it a few yrs back and used an Iwata eclipse. I’m very close to getting the Micron plus, however is there a major difference in your opinion between the HS and the Micron apart from the Mac
Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed the vid, the one shown with Mac control is the Micron CMC plus which is $750 AUD approx, you can get the Mac Valve on most of the iwata models and it usually costs around $50 more than the regular model 👍🏻
Yes...I know I’m working on it ...I’ll move it up the queue and get it out ASAP, I am planning on showcasing one of the new AirShot stencils that I’ll be painting 👍🏻🤞🏻
Can someone please tell me why it's so goddamn expensive. With $700 I can buy a perfect good set of paint and a couple of canvase, if I really wanted fine art that's where I would go personally or even buy myself a digital sketchpad and do it digitally, I can still see the $200 dollar one having a decent price but holy hell seven hundred.
I know they are as I mentioned ...like buying a super car, they are extremely smooth and beautifully made but that said , they should be ...if you can get the performance out of them then they will make long hours of detailed airbrushing easier...however you can definitely achieve the same sort of results with the $250 eclipse 👍🏻
Hi, iam looking into buying my first Airbrush. I already do some Spray painting and iam much more comfortable with an trigger than an button. Would you rather recommend the Satajet 20B or the Iwata TRN1?
Thanks for your comment, I would recommend if possible you pick up both and see which is most comfortable for you, I have had more experience with the Neo trigger models and they are popular and definitely do the job, you could also take a look at the Vault trigger - ua-cam.com/video/FVv-ysI3XZQ/v-deo.html more expensive but great brush 👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum thanks for the reply. I already gibt an Sataminijet with an .5mm for larger areas but i find it a bit to heavy for smal airbrushing. I will try out both and See wchich one i like more.
Great vid. Made my mind up what to buy - im going for cheap and chearful double action for RC Model painiting. Would you be able to provide some very specific advice on how to to achieve 2mm line from a mzximum posible distance using a nozzle connected to a spray can in vertical manner? I want to sprauy lines on concrete using CNC machine....What should be nozzle size and shape given that can pressure is around 140 psi and going down with every spray. Is it possible to get that 2mm line from 25mm distance between surface and the nozzle?
Price points definitely makes a difference I have a badger patriot 105 and an iwata eclipse they both get the job done but the patriot takes a little more effort with the trigger push and pull it just isn’t anywhere near as smooth as the iwata, unfortunately I’m still a beginner so i feel like a monkey in an F1 car 😭 it takes a lot of fine tuning to get the right performance but it’s a lot more fun than using a brush I just wish the paint were easier to get. Airbrush paint can get pretty expensive I’ve seen videos of people using cheap craft paint but I feel like it would ruin the airbrush any advice on this?
Cheap paint usually has less and more coarse pigment. More expensive paint has more and finer pigment. Acrylics wont harm any airbrush, but solvent based paints might affect the inside seals of your brush. Check your brush to see if it can work with those paints. In short: Yes, cheap paints can work depending on the type, but they can be a lot of work to mix properly and even then they can be inconsistent when spraying. More expensive paint has better coverage, consistency and you can dilute it more. If you just need to slap some paint on something, go cheap, otherwise quality will save you time and headaches. Edit: some normal Valejo paint and some airbrush thinner makes great airbrush paint and you need very little paint for a lot of coverage.
Cheap kits with a slightly large needle/nozzle are fine for spraying large areas. Cheap kits can either be decent or a nightmare for anything fine; there is little consistency in their build quality which can make it harder to learn airbrushing as a beginner (did I do something wrong or is it the airbrush?..) A bigger nozzle will shoot anything through as long as you diluted the paint well enough. Thin, neat lines are often a nightmare on cheaper brushes with inconsistent spraying. A quality brush will mostly give you the same results every time if you mix your paints well.
Use the little tiny portable you can buy online and then try a 3 gallon type from Lowe’s, to loud.I finally spent some money and got a California Air type silence compressor.It’s worth the money due to being right size and super quiet.
So...you are actually comparing a 20 dollar gun with a 500+ gun (US) Quite a leap....Especially since most of the "skill" comes from the artist and practice.....Has used a Micron...and no different from my badger (30 years experience) there should be NO reason why a simple airgun , as an airbrush , should cost that much.....it is not a ferarri ....it is a status symbol , and nothing less .
👉🏻 New to Airbrushing start here : ua-cam.com/play/PLkd3s0ymmV0OKlXI7wEma4Z4ntvXMs9jv.html
I bought 3 different airbrushes that were $25-40 and had a few issues and cleaning was a nightmare. Decided to drop a buckfifty on iwata eclipse and WOW! The difference is night and day. Amazing atomization and so easy to clean.
Take those needles from the cheap set and polish them a few times with brasso or similar product (It's the difference between the prices on name brands, the level they go to with polishing). It's a commonly known issue with most experienced Airbrushers, though they still over sell the ones they paid thru the nose for. Polish those needles with a metal polish and you'll be getting a huge improvement on the cheap ones and they will perform like the expensive ones every time. Obviously the more you pay the better you get, however with elbow grease which is mostly free ;) You can get on par with those $700 ones minus the super fine detail as they typically use really small needles as stated. Also use the correct paint medium for the needle you are using, over thinning is a bad habit to get into as you'll lose paint quality the more you thin, over thinning is best used for shading and blending but do whatever works best in your setup.
@@animalyze7120 just witch polish and a rag?
I'm looking a the iwata for painting fishing lures. What's your thoughts
@@jasonbruney8842 you would definitely be able to paint fine details and pinpoint eyes with it. I haven’t used mine or any airbrush in quite a while and I’m no pro, but I did do a lot of research and decided on the eclipse. It has been a year though there maybe something cheaper that is just as good. Good luck!
@@kazfpv5318 I'm looking at the iwata
Handy hint: Harder and Steenbeck's Ultra is their 'entry level' airbrush, costs around £60-£80 GBP... but in the grand scheme of things, it's a mid-range airbrush that is lightyears ahead of the cheap, unbranded Amazon airbrushes.
Harder and Steenbeck don't advertise this fact, but the needles, nozzles and air caps for the Ultra are 100% interchangeable with their (far more expensive) Infinity and Evo brushes.
Basically, buy an Ultra, spend the extra £25 on an Infinity needle, nozzle and air cap set and get 90% of the way to an Infinity for less than half the price.
That's lots of help while I've been wondering about that
I was looking at those H&S airbrushes and I notice they don't have a micro air adjuster. Surely that would be a basic feature? I don't know much about airbrushes but my cheapo Chinese airbrush has a micro adjuster.
@@herculeholmes504 H&S uses for micro air adjusting extra part which is called fPc valve. Of course, just this part alone cost around 30 euros, but it is interchangeable between their product line.
Probably the best bang for the bucks is their Evolution Silverline fPc Two in One airbrush. It lacks only trigger sensitivity adjustment and end piece with dial against Infinity. Something that is not really essential to get the best result. As Helmet mentioned before you can easily swap needles with nozzles and put fork diffuser and viola you have Infinity performance. So basically, you can start with the cheapest Evolution airbrush and make upgrades to the level of Infinity in terms of performance except for trigger sensitivity and end piece with the dial. Not that it is worth trying to do that because every extra part costs you money and the final sum can easily add up to the cost of the cheapest Infinity.
I also bought one of these cheap (but the most expensive one) Chinese airbrushes with MAC valve like you because I was curious about them. I made several adjustments/fixes to this airbrush, but I still can't get the performance of my H&S airbrushes. Anyway, it's still not totally worthless as it sprays at least primer color nicely.
@@herculeholmes504there's not a big reason to need that if you're good.
Pro-Artist here, a couple of questions/remarks:
1. Got myself one of the no-brand ones with tank. Works great. When starting out I’d really recommend getting one of those, because you’ll be less afraid to take it apart (which you’re going to have to do anyways for maintenance, just like a motorcycle).
2. Been using mine for two years now, and only recently ran into the problem some might face: the rubber gaskets tend to deconstruct themselves with intensive use and cleaning with alcohol-based solutions. Which in itself is not that troublesome, were it not for the fact that - because it is a no-name (Timbertech) model, I have no idea how to order the right parts to replace this.
3. Totally agree with the reviewer (his channel has been a goldmine when researching how to use this medium properly, for even though I’m used to all kinds of paints and cans, this is much more precise). What I would consider in an upgrade though, is the ease of disassembly/reach towards components and fragility of individual parts. My brush has a specific angle under the back end of the compartment (where the pen goes into the trigger/spring-room) that I just can’t reach at all. Especially with metallic paints, these tend to clog up everything in no time (either by drying or leaving residue), and in a future purchase I’d love to be able to reach all that stuff without a lot of ‘special tools and tricks’. Just making it all more durable.
So: expensive one or cheap one: it depends on experience and ambitions. But neither one is so bad you can’t make great work with them.
Anyway, that’s my thoughts. If anyone has an answer to finding those (rubber) gaskets: that’d be greaaaattt. Cheers!
well this was a while back.. but if you get me the model i can tell you which parts to get probably.. and country your in might matter.
Used a dirt cheep airbrush for ages and was generally pleased with the results but when I upgraded to a couple of Harder & Steenbecks ( the Evolution and the Infinity) I was absolutely blown away with their quality, ease of use and the fabulous results I get from them. I would love a top of the range Iwata but I just don't use my airbrushes often enough to justify the outlay. I have learnt so much watching your channel and have purchased a few (quite a few) templates that you have used in your various videos.
They probably don't need to be that expensive also. In reality they are probably made for 10 dollars and sold for hundreds....I make fire starters, special ones..the ones you get in store I can make my special ones and sell them for the same price as the store ones and still make mad profit.
I am an absolute beginner so this info was invaluable. I have started custom painting my fishing reels and its just something Iwant to develop. I appreciate quality.
Very useful advice! I got a airbrush compressor with tank combo about a year ago. I love the airbrush that came with it. It was a basic knockoff no brand model off of Amazon. I just recently got the Iwata Neo as a treat for myself sticking with this hobby. It was $60 USD. I added a flow control to the back to back off it and it is perfect for my skill level at the moment. I use it to do preshading on Gundam models. The thing that helps the most is proper mix ratio and keeping the airbrush clean! Also flow improver is the best additive for stopping tip dry for me. I love your videos! Great content, I enjoy practicing with you running in the background! You are a 100 times better at teaching this stuff than someone that uses them for Gundam models! Thanks!
Neo with the trigger was my first AB 2 years ago and it was nice, but I recently upgraded to a Harder & Steenbeck evo silverline and it's a lot better. Not sure if it was the jump to a traditional AB, or the Hs is that much better. With the .4 needle it smashes the finest line of the .35 of the neo. If i switch to the .2 needle i could preshade space marines like I do Gundam.
Thanks for your comment and glad to hear you enjoy my vids and the Neo is fantastic we use the HPCN in our classes. In regards to Gundam I’m planning on doing a vid on one of those in the future...need to polish up my skills a little more on my minis first as I only recently got back into painting them 👍🏻
I use an eclipse for miniature and static model paint jobs, and it’s brilliant, never lets me down. Quick colour changes and easy to clean and maintain, I put everything through it, varnishes, paints and metallics, the only time it goes wrong is when I screw up thinning ratios and pressures, but that’s my fault!
When I started airbrushing models and minis I first had a $40 Amazon China knockoff. It would clog and sputter and do all sorts of stuff that made airbrushing harder then it needed to be. Then I purchased a badger 105, a little better but not great. Then I got a paasche (can't remember the model) even better but still had issue. Then I purchased an Iwata Eclipse. It was like night and day difference. I would recommend the eclipse as your first brush. It's not too expensive and it's tough as nails. You can stick anything in it, shoot it all day and still get it clean without issues. Don't buy any other brush just get the eclipse.
You sir, are an amazing artist. A cheap airbrush can do damage to a beginner. But anyone that can effectively learn on a cheaper airbrush, surely has a bright future ahead. Best regards.
Thank you so much appreciate the kind words and glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻
Hey John. Im wondering what exactly you have on your mind talking about damage to a begineer. Please elaborate. I never airbrushed and Im about to buy something.
@@thomasputko1080 a tool that does not run perfect will give us bad habits to compensate for whatever dysfunction the tool may have. out of all the air brushes that I bought the cheaper ones were one out of three were 98% perfect so you do have a chance of finding a cheaper airbrush that works perfect. or close to a very expensive airbrush. but a cheaper air brush can save you a small amount of money if you decide not to continue airbrushing. he just did a demo of an airbrush it was about $120 and I thought it was a bargain. if you decide to stick with airbrushing for whatever reason you like to do it, you will own dozens of airbrushes.
@@JohnDoe-vq8bg ok, what r these disfunctioins. Give me an example John.
@@thomasputko1080 trigger, smoothness, parts not fitting correctly then the even missing parts. and these are all things that you will quickly learn to repair or overcome. and after three to six months no one will be able to tell but you if you use the $15 airbrush or a $600 airbrush honest.
I purchased an HP-CS back in 2019 not knowing at the time that it was such an underrated brush. 100% a staple in my airbrushing sessions
Iwata Revolution is my workhorse, it's very dependable.
I've tried cheaper and more expensive airbrushes from other brands (which I won't name) and had nothing but trouble.
If I was going to upgrade, it would be to the Eclipse. But honestly, I think getting a more powerful compressor is higher priority for me.
I've been thinking about getting a cheap airbrush just for priming miniatures, because the weather in my location is all over the place, and I can't always use a rattle can.
Then, after I learn how to use an airbrush, if the cheap one ever breaks, I might upgrade after that...
I have everything from Iwata neo, eclipse, hp, hi line and kustom. Everything is either b or c configuration.
Skip the neo unless you are just checking out air brushing or you are a teacher and you need to respect the budget. Save up for an eclipse they will do far more for you and longer. my first one was finally retired after 5 years of daily use and my second after 8 years.
I use an eclipse as my daily work horse. Frankly best bang for the buck.
The hi line and hp are fine but the smaller needle is actually less versatile than an eclipse. But for miniatures and fine art it is the better set up. Now the onboard air pressure control is very niche, for the ammount the average person would use it, frankly it is not worth the money and just get better brush control. From a commercial standpoint it has serious value if you simply cannot afford to waste time or you need exact control.
The kustoms are amazing you truly get what you pay for here. But you don't need it. These are like supercars trust me when I tell ya the eclipse aka a pick up truck will do you better 90% of the time. Yes I like breaking out my supercar and giving it a go on certain projects. But it is not my daily driver or work horse. frankly ya need good brush control and practice before you will ever see the true benefits of a kustom. So earn your stripes and don't waste your money on something that will lie to you.
I hope to see your take on needle size vs. paint type, seen a lot of Iwata users bash enamels for trying to get that thicker paint through an illustrator brush like Iwata's (Which is where those #5's come in handy and shine. Overthinning reduces luster and color depth, especially with Metallics and doing work with candies.
Currently spraying models with an Iwata HP-SB, HP-C and HP-CH. Yes 100% worth the money. Went Iwata in the early 90s and never looked back.
I'm just starting, and I bought a cheap ebay airbrush and was practicing, but I decided to upgrade to an iwata neo and it's a lot easier to use and I'm surprised how thin I can get lines with it. I've really been enjoying your channel and learning a lot. 👍👍
Fantastic breakdown here. I've yet to lay down a line but found the Badger patriot 105 on sale for black Friday. Got it for 70 usd. I mainly will be using it to base coat and clear coat but I was told it was a great starting brush. Appreciate the lesson and will be practicing on paper before going to my projects 😎👊
wow there really is a difference there.... now as a miniature painter, ive been exceedingly happy with my $12 ebay airbrush. I can turn the pressure down and paint small detail, but i would be genuinely curious what kind of detail could be painted on miniatures.
Can you please make a video doing an airbrush only freehand on something small, like the armor panel of a titan! (about 2 inches squared)
Great Videos and your art always amazes me. Thank you for what you do
This one video explained more to me than 20 previous I've found. Thanks.
Thanks for the video! I bought an Iwata Neo as my first and an expensive compressor. I regret nothing, although I did need to do a lot of video watching to get more confident and learn how to maintain my airbrush.
I am using a cheap one atm, it came with my air compressor from eBay or Amazon, it’s great practice, I have bent a needle but it came with 3 different needles so easy to swap over to a new one, Ive ordered a second 20$ Sturbridge like the one I use here, it’s gonna be a back up airbrush but might use it for oil paints too, I do miniature painting… but I’ve also ordered one of the new Squidmar airbrushes, harder steenbeck I think is the brand, it’s a beautiful airbrush and coz I’ve been using the cheap one I know the squidmar ones design and features will be great for what I do 😁🐶
I use full size spray guns and some mini guns for spot repairs , I’m also just trying my hand at air brushing, this video helped a lot
I started two years ago with a compressor and two air brushes sold at Aldi (lol I know)
Taking it more seriously now I have had my eye on getting an Iwata Eclipse( most of my spray guns are Iwata , so your video definitely cemented what I thought
ALDI sell some excellent tools they are often German made. I have a landscaping company I buy all my pruning saws and loppers from them, I have a couple of powered branch pruners still going strong after 2 years. Their screwdrivers are very good.
@@ericconnor8419 I totally agree I buy many tools from Aldi I really love them
Hmmm... I found that the principle concern with my cheap Chinese airbrush was that the needle and nozzle were not centrally aligned in the shroud. This caused uneven airflow over the needle and nozzle, and odd spray patterns (I had to insert some needle-nose pliers into the brass end and push things into alignment, which felt rough and damaging but only required tiny adjustments). That seems to be what is wrong with your cheap airbrush too, given how that first circle you painted came out.
Also, the machining of the screw threads is a bit loose and so small quantities of plumber's PTFE tape can help seal the joints in the airflow path and help prevent drops in pressure.
The fact is that the expensive tools are guaranteed to work out-of-the-box, and perfectly, or your money back.
The cheap ones are so cheap because they were designed and assembled in the quickest and cheapest manner possible, so alignment issues and poor joints will affect performance. Cheap airbrushes can be recovered into something surprisingly good if you know what to look for and how to fix.
I have Iwata eclipse, and Master G33, which is just under 50$, I'm very satisfied with this Master product overall.
Thanks for the video, I'm just looking to get some low buildup paint and dye on my woodturning and this has cleared up A LOT of confusion. I'll start with an El Cheapo and if I need to I'll certainly spend extra on a decent mid range one. Great video and I'm now off to see more of your work.
I have several "noname" brands, and then I get my Harder & Steenbeck - which I can change needles, nozzles, and so on.
Best one I ever bought..
That no-name cheap brand...found on Amazon for about $13-15 US...is ALL I USE...and i believe the paint videos i post show the "quality" of the brush itself...its all about the skills of the artist moreso that the cost of the tools...
Us artists cannot atress this enough!
I’ve never used an actual good airbrush I
I airbrushed my first two skulls using templates the other day
I bought the $20 harbor freight deluxe about a year ago and it’s definitely sketchy at times think I’m about ready to upgrade to an Iwata
Thanks for the videos really appreciate all the info and knowledge👍😎
Upgrade. More people have given up because of poor performance, frustration. I had the same HF deluxe and realized it just needed killing.
Have you tried if the Iwata Needle/Nozzle setup fits into the cheap one? I am sure it would be a LOT better and nice compromise price/performance wise. If it does, please make a short video of it. :)
Doesn't matter the only advantage the Iwata needle has as it's super polished from the factory hence the cost, you can polish the cheap ones with a good metal polish compound like brasso or similar product and remove the micro pits that cause the detail loss. A few run with polishing really good will make those cheapos perform on par with the best of them, minus any added on gimmicks the expensive ones have. It is nice to say I have an Iwata but really it impresses no one, the work does.
I have a master g233 only cost 35 dollars in the United States cleaning is a bit hard but that is because I only spend like 2 minutes cleaning so giving a deep clean wouldn't be too bad but it has lasted about 1 and a half years now very pleased with it
If you properly reduce your paint along with a good compressor with a holding tank. You really could get away with using an Eclipse CS for everything. The big misconception, is nozzle size. The .35 on the Eclipse is a dual taper design which aids in very fine detail. Also the Eclipse uses a multi hole head assembly like the Micron does. Dollar for dollar, nothing will beat the atomization or performance of any of the Eclipse models. The cheaper brushes will not atomize like an iwata. There are some good brands out there but there are just too many advantages with the Eclipse. A big one that i didn't mention is the durability of the dual taper needle it is not easily bent. Which is a huge benefit. Especially for beginners
I didn't get my first make run until after I've been airbrushing probably maybe 10 years I just couldn't see spending that money but after I got one it was well worth it and of course the learning curve with it after 10 years of airbrushing wasn't very much but I do not recommend this airbrush for a beginner it's too sensitive of an airbrush and they're not going to get the performance that they think they're going to get I recommend maybe a iwatas neo is a good choice for a beginner if they want to gravity feed airbrush which I always recommended to my students gravity feeds because they just do so much better when I paint cars I'm using a gravity feed paint gun I find gravity feed to be the best way to go with any type of sprained device anyway I hope you have a blessed day that the living Lord Jesus Christ bless you and your endeavor to help people understand about airbrushing
Great video, very informative and good for the first timer, it was a real refresher for me since I have not beemn steady at using my airbrush as I to many projects in the loop, thatnk mate!
Any airbrush and any dilution i use i cannot avoid the paint dust and grainy surfaces. I used a chinese 0,3, a Neo CN for Iwata 0,35, HS Infinity CR Plus 0,15 and 0,4, Iwata HP CP 0,2 and 0,3, a Tamiya HG TR 0,3. But when i used a Iwata LPH 50 i eliminated the problem almost entirely.
Now the question is what Compressor do you recommend that is quiet to use with the 250 iwata?
Why arent there more micron users using CSI Creos Mr.Hobby's PS-770 micron. It is about half the price of an Iwata, manufactured in the same factory as the custom micron and performs every bit as well; same design & same manufacturer. Anyone wanting to experience a micron and do not have a few kidney to sell should really take a look at the PS-770 (if you dont mind gravity feed).
its interesting....I really havent liked my eclipse or neo, much prefer the creos for the pricepoint.
Thanks bro, I went with the $150 Revolution after this
El cheapo brushes are a false economy - if nothing else they're very hard to clean because of the small pieces in the nozzle construction. There's a price point between the Eclipse (fine brush indeed) and the cheapo. Brushes for about $60 US include the Chinese made Iwata Neo, the USA made Paasche VLS, the Paasche Talon: Badger also makes an entry level double and single action brush. Ditto Sparmax. Figure about $100 for the entry level Harder Steenbeck Evolution series. Anyway, I'd sure spend the extra $30 to get a Neo or VLS over a no-name cheapo.
Question you mentioned miniatures.
If we are talking not just undercoating but painting the entire miniature doing shadows, highlights etc etc (and here i am talking tabletop miniatures of the kind Games Workshop, Privateer Press, Wyrd Games among others produces).
Would the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse be the one you recommend buying?
So I started of with a NEO Iwata and I don't know what it is I do but I eat through Nozzles at a rate of 1 a year and the damn things cost about £17 a pop. So last year I bought a mig cobra brush and the AK basic line Brush when it was in a sale for €29 with the idea of well if its crap it will just get used for priming models and varnish and that takes stress off the cobra's usage. Thing I noticed though was the price of nozzles on both were €5, much cheaper. Been over a year now, only use the cobra for fine detail and the AK is just a work horse, I find it to be the equal of the Neo Iwata but cheaper and cheaper parts, and as of yet no issue with the nozzle which is a pain as I bought 3 spare nozzles in a sale (paid less than €10). Maybe the Neo Iwata arnt good quality? or I did buy an ultra sonic cleaner so maybe that's made a difference. But as it is now the iwata is just in it box in a draw with a broken nozzle.
The Neo is made FOR Iwata which is stated clearly on the packaging and not made BY Iwata and although they carry the Iwata brand name they are not in the same class nor as high a quality as a true made by Iwata airbrush. The Neo was made so Iwata could have an airbrush line in the budget price point range.
Apparently Iwata does not feel they can make an airbrush in their facility at the needed price point and make a profit on it so they farm out the cheaper models.
Having and using an Iwata Neo is not the same experience as having and owning an Iwata Eclipse, HPC or Micron series brush but neither does it damage the bank account to the same degree.
- Iwata Micron CMC+ 549.99 US on amazon, - Iwata Eclipse 192.16 US on amazon, - Cheaper Airbrush (similar to what is shown) 17.99 US on amazon
Thanks for sharing the US dollars and yes, prices will vary depending on which country and supplier you purchase from 👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum I usually order through Everythingairbrush.com from the UK, due to their prices are cheap with their money, the pound, but I use the conversion chart to see how cheap they are from the USA. I get a better price by ordering through Everythingairbrush on most of my stuff that I need, like stencils and airbrushes and what not. I tried to get an aircompressor from them, but I couldn't due to the weight and the shipping charges. Things will change here after the election and Trump wins for a second term. All hell is breaking loose here in the US right now.
@@JK-dj1zj no more trump,
WHOO! HOO!
@@bipedalbob how’s that working out for you?? “Let’s go Brandon!!!”
I have no memory of posting that or why,
But it looks like liquor was involved.
Really?? No Paasche in the mix? You can get VL Double Action Airbrush set for between $60.00 - $70.00 US and it's a great mid-range airbrush and lasts forever, and can do just about any job from starter to Pro.
I always wonder why some people just don't mention you can get passche and badger American made airbrushes way cheaper than iwata I think they just haven't used any
I have a paaschegood brush
@@dlmdlm7685 I use a Badger Sotar 20/20 here. Comparable to the Iwata Micron, at a fraction of the cost.
I like the thicker body of the paasche vl, used one for long time, and always affordable
It would be refreshing if in the title, you had included "for professional artists", as for most people, that use it for model making, any of the expensive ones are only triple overkill. My most expensive one to date is a Badger 100, I've had and used it for more than twenty years, the results are perfectly acceptable. I believe the modelers are probably at least 80% of the total airbrush users, either of the high buck models you displayed would be only "status", not capability.
A lot of the better miniature painters use an Iwata Eclipse level brush. (150-200USD range) It's definitely worth it for fine detail work. I agree that I don't know that I could ever justify a micron unless I was a professional...
I WOULD SEE YOU TEST A MASTER AIR BRUSH IT SEEMS TO ME BETTER MADE THAN THE CHEAPER VERSION YOU USED ..... THANKS IN ADVANCE
It all depends how and where you are going to use them. Myself I use them to paint model cars.
Yes it is, because it makes you look good. 😀
Lol 😂
I'm a beginner and want to start painting my trainers/sneakers. What is the best airbrush to use as a beginner?
I'm getting into airbrushing soon. I draw somewhat frequently and have wanted to learn how to airbrush. But, what airbrush would be best for airbrushing motorcycles or other vehicles?
I love using the eclipse HPCS or Gsi Creos PS.289
@@AirbrushAsylum alright thank you! I was actually looking at getting the hp-c plus for my first airbrush because I have the money and I was looking at it as an investment and figured since I have the money I'd get something that is supposed to be really good. And will last me for awhile. My plan is to do shoes for money bedroom walls (or any kind of walls really), motorcycle gas tanks, vehicles, shirts, whatever really haha so I figured that the hp-c plus was the best route but the research I've done says between the two hp's the one you suggested had a broader span which would be good for getting bigger areas like vehicles/walls etc. But the plus was finer detailed. And I thought just get the plus and I'll just make so and have to just spend more time on getting everything but atleast it'll be finer.
Buy the best brush you can afford. Anything from Iwata is better than almost everything else. Seriously. I have the HP, revolution, and eclipse. I also have a badger, and two Pasche brushes.
The iwata are like brain surgery, where as the others are like chopping wood.
Thanks for the info.but I still have no clue an I've been a painter for 35yrs an never have tryed one 😂✌
If for general scenery painting such as model railway €400:00 is a tad expensive.
🇮🇪
Yes I agree, always buy the best possible brush with your budget in mind my top picks are the GSI Creos PS.289 and iwata eclipse HPCS 👍🏻
Thank you for the video. Great comparison on the subject.
I own some microns and some olympos ones as well. I got the eclipse in different flavors but love side chips like the SB ones. One of my cheaper airbrushes is a Volcano that’s works pretty close to what a moron is.
STILL, i would love to see you achieve all detail you do while using Createx paint LOL. Specially under low pressure! I’ve used your tips to thin down my crates paint and would like to thank you, it helped a lot but the paint itself does way too quick cause the dry tip ECT way too quickly but definitely I’m getting better mileage with your tip.
Thank you!
Mine is a Grex and I base miniatures.
That’s awesome I haven’t used the grex brushes but I have always thought they look really cool 👍🏻
i just got the tritium tg7, and wow! such a great brush! great addition to my creos line
Solid info. Thanks.👍🤟
Thank you for posting this. Have you used the Master G44? I got this in a complete kit on Amazon for $250 USD.
No I haven’t had any experience with the master kits but I have heard lots of people have used them , I may need to get my hands on one so I can give it a try 👍🏻
I’m an absolute beginner but do have a background in tattoo artistry for the last 12 years. Do you have any pointers for where I should go to start learning this type of art? I’m very interested in learning
Thanks for the video
I have the HS infinity cr plus ver 2. I am relatively new to airbrushing, I did it a few yrs back and used an Iwata eclipse. I’m very close to getting the Micron plus, however is there a major difference in your opinion between the HS and the Micron apart from the Mac
Thank you so much for this video Sir.
thanks for the movi 👍and how much cost the airbrush with the Air control?
Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed the vid, the one shown with Mac control is the Micron CMC plus which is $750 AUD approx, you can get the Mac Valve on most of the iwata models and it usually costs around $50 more than the regular model 👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum thanks for the answer
thank you for introduction
still no video painting art with the battery NO-NAME airbrush :(
Yes...I know I’m working on it ...I’ll move it up the queue and get it out ASAP, I am planning on showcasing one of the new AirShot stencils that I’ll be painting 👍🏻🤞🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum Awsome cant wait.
Thx for info very helpful
Can someone please tell me why it's so goddamn expensive. With $700 I can buy a perfect good set of paint and a couple of canvase, if I really wanted fine art that's where I would go personally or even buy myself a digital sketchpad and do it digitally, I can still see the $200 dollar one having a decent price but holy hell seven hundred.
I have one that runs that much in Australia and it's bad ass. Totally worth it. For serious airbrush artists tho.
I know they are as I mentioned ...like buying a super car, they are extremely smooth and beautifully made but that said , they should be ...if you can get the performance out of them then they will make long hours of detailed airbrushing easier...however you can definitely achieve the same sort of results with the $250 eclipse 👍🏻
The microns are simply amazing.
They have a matched, sealed head system. Superior machining, etc etc
Look up Mr Hobby PS770 You'll thank me
Great video !!!!
Many thanks 🙏🏻
750 I could buy a second hand car for that
What about Gocheer AirBrush ))) I am new to AirBrushing and would like to know the opinion of a professional. Thanks
How would you rate one of the Master trigger style gravity feed airbrushes such as the Model G79 sold on Amazon for about $70.00 US?
Hi, iam looking into buying my first Airbrush. I already do some Spray painting and iam much more comfortable with an trigger than an button. Would you rather recommend the Satajet 20B or the Iwata TRN1?
Thanks for your comment, I would recommend if possible you pick up both and see which is most comfortable for you, I have had more experience with the Neo trigger models and they are popular and definitely do the job, you could also take a look at the Vault trigger - ua-cam.com/video/FVv-ysI3XZQ/v-deo.html more expensive but great brush 👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum thanks for the reply. I already gibt an Sataminijet with an .5mm for larger areas but i find it a bit to heavy for smal airbrushing. I will try out both and See wchich one i like more.
Great vid. Made my mind up what to buy - im going for cheap and chearful double action for RC Model painiting.
Would you be able to provide some very specific advice on how to to achieve 2mm line from a mzximum posible distance using a nozzle connected to a spray can in vertical manner? I want to sprauy lines on concrete using CNC machine....What should be nozzle size and shape given that can pressure is around 140 psi and going down with every spray. Is it possible to get that 2mm line from 25mm distance between surface and the nozzle?
what is your opinion of the Neo for Iwatta?
Price points definitely makes a difference I have a badger patriot 105 and an iwata eclipse they both get the job done but the patriot takes a little more effort with the trigger push and pull it just isn’t anywhere near as smooth as the iwata, unfortunately I’m still a beginner so i feel like a monkey in an F1 car 😭 it takes a lot of fine tuning to get the right performance but it’s a lot more fun than using a brush I just wish the paint were easier to get. Airbrush paint can get pretty expensive I’ve seen videos of people using cheap craft paint but I feel like it would ruin the airbrush any advice on this?
Cheap paint usually has less and more coarse pigment. More expensive paint has more and finer pigment. Acrylics wont harm any airbrush, but solvent based paints might affect the inside seals of your brush. Check your brush to see if it can work with those paints. In short: Yes, cheap paints can work depending on the type, but they can be a lot of work to mix properly and even then they can be inconsistent when spraying. More expensive paint has better coverage, consistency and you can dilute it more. If you just need to slap some paint on something, go cheap, otherwise quality will save you time and headaches. Edit: some normal Valejo paint and some airbrush thinner makes great airbrush paint and you need very little paint for a lot of coverage.
Golden high flow acrylics, I think it is, work great through an air brush...
Air pressor?
are there any british made airbrushes ?
Do something with master
Iwata HP-BC any good?
Great video. Can i get away with a cheaper kit if all im doing is spraying rc bodyshells? cheers
Cheap kits with a slightly large needle/nozzle are fine for spraying large areas. Cheap kits can either be decent or a nightmare for anything fine; there is little consistency in their build quality which can make it harder to learn airbrushing as a beginner (did I do something wrong or is it the airbrush?..) A bigger nozzle will shoot anything through as long as you diluted the paint well enough. Thin, neat lines are often a nightmare on cheaper brushes with inconsistent spraying. A quality brush will mostly give you the same results every time if you mix your paints well.
Nice 👍👍
Thank you so much 👍🏻
if you can paint with cheap airbrush you can do with anything, the expensive doesnt mean better models
Anybody familiar with the angelus air brush??
Can I have this airbrush? How much is the Sri Lankan currency?
Way to not pick any kind of mid priced brush like a Badger 105, Iwata Neo or even a Master brush. In USD you went from $150 straight to $15.
The cheap one is made from aluminum too
Yes it is thanks for the info mate 👍🏻
TRIMAKASI INFONYA SUKSES SELALU
we are coming to meet you...
do i need to buy the air compressor separately?
thank you for anyone that answering me
Use the little tiny portable you can buy online and then try a 3 gallon type from Lowe’s, to loud.I finally spent some money and got a California Air type silence compressor.It’s worth the money due to being right size and super quiet.
I bought a Amazon cheap o and hate it
il parle en anglais pourquoi les sous titres sont en anglais pourquoi ne pas les mettre dans la langue du pays qui
750 WTF
IF TAGGERS CAN DO IT WITH SPRAY CANS.....???......................................"cheers!"
700$ !? What a rip off.
So...you are actually comparing a 20 dollar gun with a 500+ gun (US) Quite a leap....Especially since most of the "skill" comes from the artist and practice.....Has used a Micron...and no different from my badger (30 years experience) there should be NO reason why a simple airgun , as an airbrush , should cost that much.....it is not a ferarri ....it is a status symbol , and nothing less .
What I love most about my Eclipse is that I have good brushes, so I don't have to use that piece of crap.
Since you're doing Australia dollars maybe you should set your settings to only have you Aussies to watch
This video should be 2 seconds long,
Yes, or no.
Cheap airbrush is usually made in China. If you pay any attention to world news, you can decide if you want to support the Chinese economy.
Iawata airbrushes are over complicated, extremely fragile and overpriced. H&S does a 99,9% as good a job for half the price!
I’ve started on a sparmax airbrush and lost the plot. Are they pieces crap? Pulled apart cleaned Put back together... so inconsistent