You guys are doing great work... Here in South Africa, sand was abolished now for years to use as blasting medium, due to Silicosis... Wet or Dry, it is not allowed... I advise that you use respirator with high spec filter...
Absolutely agree. I was holding my breath as they were pouring from one container to another. I think it's also a misconception that if it's in water it isn't a risk... it is.
You have to be breathing that for years before you get Silicosis. It would also be interesting to see if it only occurs with smokers. Asbestosis was an issue with only with workers that worked in the mines breathing it every day. It also only occurred in miners that were also smokers. So only in people with damaged cilia in their lungs.. We went all crazy removing it from schools, buildings and break pads for millions of dollars and it was a very good fire retardant and wouldn't harm anyone unless they were in clouds of the stuff. Now the new fire retardants are very toxic when burning. The number one killer of building fires is smoke inhalation and it was made worse with this change.
hello. I am an English learner living in Korea. I enjoy watching this channel because it is a channel of interest. I enjoy watching your videos because I can hear your calm and clear pronunciation. I'm still not very good at it, so I use a translator to comment, but I hope to be able to type it myself soon. Anyway, it's more fun to watch the video because you and your wife are incredibly handsome and beautiful.
It's amazing how you had never welded and were self taught and now lay dimes!!! Amazing work by both of you! Solid team effort and love watching the Progress!!! Keep up the great work
I would just drill a hole in the far side of your tread where all the bounce is and rig up some cables to the ceiling for support. It would tie into the whole industral look too!
Was thinking the same thing. Then I was thinking maybe som 45 degree support beams coming out of the wall. Or at least some triangle shaped stiffening plates.
Also it would help them to actually be up to code. You cant have no side railing on stairs like that. Its an obvious danger. Any rise above 3 feet requires railing. Same reason you can't just have a balcony with no sides. Use glass or cables if you want a modern look.
The whole idea behind floating stairs is the lack of supports at one side. The basic design is fine. They simply needed to deal with the twisting moment properly. That would have been rectangle tubes from floor to the yellow beam above in two or three places equal distantly spaced.
@@mikeiver That is what I was going to say. The supports they added carry the vertical load but do not do much for the twisting. They must run behind the C-channel to be welled to both lips/sides.
I read people saying like "everyone is an expert" but the reality is that metal works in a very predictable way, you will find yourself walking on the inside of the stairs because of all the flex. Years down the road they will all be crooked if you don't support the outside, I read a comment about cable wire which is a good idea or if you're going to do railings you can design something nice that also brace the outside of the steps.
When you are making a floating staircase, you need to fix the supporting plate to the Wall very rigid. That means welding it to the whole length to the container wall, to stop it twisting. You may need to add additional vertical supports under the plate. The hanging supports are not doing much. Also you may want to add infills where the container wall is shaped.
Let's see what happens.. I feel at this point it looks like the steps are upside down because I think you will probably stub your toe but the other reason is that I think structurally you'll have a better support underneath it I just think it would look better the other way but we haven't seen what you've done yet the other option would be to leave them like that and then add cable to each one of them on the instead of floating free but they'd have cables on the other end let's see how it works maybe we're not seeing all of her design yet she may have other things in to what we're not seeing let's see how it goes
Hi Team. Great work. I have a similar stairs in my home and over 4 years experience with it. You need to fix two major things, if is not too late. First - all reinforcement elements need to continue to the floor and need to be fixed in the same way as the major bearing beam. You need of more treats(on every 1 m of the distance). Second - every stair need to be reinforced with small triangles on the bottom right side(not exact on the middle, but more close to the front edge, because this is the point of greatest twisting moment). Good luck!
The C-channel should have been right up against the ribbed container wall and welded to every corrugation both upside and downside. This would eliminate almost totally the flexing.
Fascinating project. One note: That's likely scale, not rust, on the steel. Many people prefer to leave it on, as it projects the metal. Vinegar bath overnight and a quick wire brush may work better for removal for you, though you won't get that sand-blasted look, if you do want rid of it.
Prevent rust after sandblasting: Introduce a little oil into the water supply. That leaves a thin protective coat, and eliminate the need for post processing.
just a couple things to note as I watch another great video. The deflection in the tread is calculated into riser deviation if you are getting a building inspection. The inspector is within his authority to measure with 300lbs at the furthest point to make this calculation if you are under irc code. A little too late now but if you had boxed that c channel before putting it up it would be as rigid as you need. Another not too late suggestion would be a wedge of 3/8 sheet steel welded vertically under the treads starting as wide as possible from tread to bottom of the stringer and thinning down to about midway along the tread. still would look like floating step but would be ridged enough to support weight needed. Sincerely, That pretty cool plumber from Tennessee
If you run a plate on the open end connecting all of the stairs, it will make it so all of the stairs share the load so when you step on the first step or any step for that matter it will spread your weight to all of the steps and will eliminate sag on individual steps because the other steps are essentially pulling that step from sagging when you step. It doesn't have to be a huge heavy piece. A simple quarter or half inch thick and maybe six inches wide or whatever you need, running the length of the stairs will do. It's double the welding but will eliminate the sag altogether.
Hello my dears, I'm loving your work, this house is going to be a dream. I've been following you for a while now and I'm loving your work. The saga of when it rains and ruins the whole plan, but you don't give up and always stay in a good mood. I really want to see the house complete and finished so I can see you enjoy those wonderful views. I love you. Kisses and hugs from Portugal ❤❤ 🫶 🇵🇹 👏👏👏👏.
For a final clean up of any steel that you will see try the Restorer tool with the metal cleaning drum which will give you a mirror finish and clean up any imperfections on the surface. It’s a great tool. The drum is like nothing I’ve seen before.
54:31 you can always try to use steel tubing to get A LOT more welded surface for more stability and "wrap" the tube with a nice wood slab you can glue up to look like a thick slab... That's what I would do...
Beautiful stairs! If you used 1/2” or 3/4” rebar bent into L shapes and ran under the treads to tie all the floating ends together I think that might eliminate the deflection,and wouldn’t take away from the beauty of the stairs.
For the last Adjustments on your Stairs you can wait for the Handrail, because the Stairs hang on this Side, if the Rail is Rockstable 😉 Apart from that: Superbly done
You mentioned you wish you'd used tubing instead of 'C' channel, but if you weld small plates across the back (hidden) at intervals, it will have a similar effect.
Respirators guys i know its a wet sandblaster but it is still putting fine particulates in the air lots of silica in sand bad for lungs . I use to sandblast for a living ships and barges coming in to be repainted and replace the sacrificial anodes ( zinc blocks bolted to the hull) to help prevent rust. Back to the point lungs do not have a way to get rid of solids that end up in lungs aside from coughing but that only gets rid of a little bit . Miners call it black lung so take care of yourselves
Hi, an idea from a german arcitect: you have to weld a smal long plate at the end of every step so the force of all steps is connected to the one you are standing on if you go up and down.
on the open side on the stairs, you can make L shape piece of the same stairs metal and connect all your open side it will become a nice zig zag line all the way, also it will share the weight over the each stairs to all stairs, then it will stay solid and looks very pretty from the side look.
если кто захочет повторить подобную лестницу, то используйте замкнутый профиль для косоура, он гораздо меньше подвержен кручению в сравнении с с-профилем (швеллером), это уже уменьшит провисание. Чтобы вообще исключить провисания необходимо связать свободные концы ступеней вместе
On the reinforcement c-bars, you might be able to "later on" install some tubing along the entire back rail and install some "lighting along the tubing to give it a even more awesome look that it looks now. Just an amazing project you 2 have going on. Continued Success 2 ur channel
Nicely done but the material thickness is way undersized "fatigue" will get in play because of continuous stretching of the stringer. Stringer should be no less than 1/2" thick, we usually use 5/8 inch and depending on the tread /step width sometimes it has to be even thicker, Your stringer should be thicker then the treads in that case there is no full pen and most cases no need to do ultrasonic weld inspection, as soon as you need full pen you need extensive inspection. But at list you guys doing FCAW not short-circuit-welding (GMAW) method. 26:41 did you notice when you stepped on it flexes, it is flexing to much and that will cause the fatigue over time. Besides nice adaptation of high end staircases. Edit: adding a little bit more heat to onside or the other will pull the treads to the directions where more heat got applied . Have to make sure you travel with the same speed on both sides /hence same amount of heat on both side to retain level, treads pitch up: add more weld to the bottom and it will pull downward, same goes if you sloop away from the stringer add more weld on top it will pull it back up. But you doing way better than many guys who are " professional welders" and its called "qualified welder" guys, not certified when I hear: "I'm a professional welder I just stay away from that person". (that's for professional use only) (in some cases you where traveling to fast the weld beads telling me that) lastly it would not pass any building inspections but maybe in your area it does not matter. Regardless nice job
Stairs have to be some of the most marvelous engineering marvels of the world!! Too often redo's are a common part of building them. I use goggles when I use my plasma cutter, less clutter and seem to see better.
..... Идея неплоха, даже хороша с точки зрения дизайна. Но конструктив себя проявит со временем. Плюс вопрос глубины ступени. Голос сварщика обварожителен, впрочем как и взгляд....)
Metal has pores like our skin. after removing the rust you’ve opened up the pores . being that you use water as part of your aggregate ; water you may not see ..its there it’s important to close the pores of the steel and finish the drying of the surface, which could take a few days. But if done mechanically or chemically, you can immediately dry and seal the steel so not to inhibit that rust color that immediately happens as it’s laid to dry when you’re finished with the blasting while you’re blasting, you can see the surface of the steel and how clean and whitish it looks. But oxidization happens as the oxygen reaches the surface. as soon as you’re done, you can see an orange haze begin to grow. It’s like a window if you were to take the water off the surface immediately , instead of allowing it to air dry, you will prevent that orange haze, mechanically, sanding And polishing and sealing the metal will prevent that rust color coming back , although I like it a little you can even seal in parts of that color if you like Or even leave bare areas to rustNaturally it’s all an opinion.. looks like you’re near the water so I thought I’d share I’m actually a hairstylist, but I look at surfaces microscopically as if their hair so conditioning your hair you know after a good color and shellac.. 😉🥳 Loving your stairs and the overall textures and design throughout this build !!🎉
Flexure reduction: geopolymer concrete for its weight is extremely strong in compression and more closely matches steel in flexure than OPC, plus is more environmentally resistant. It might be the right 'secret sauce' to inject to reinforce behind the C-channel.
Just a pro tip, do not pre-drill concrete and stone with a small drill bit, the load on the edge of the larger drill bit will then be too high and the tip of that drill bit may be damaged.
Great to see people having a go, however when doing your welds, especially the verticals, you really should be laying down at least two extra filler welds.
Love the video as always. Now I had a thought. Why not make a top plate for on top of the C channel and weld the to the wall, and to the same on the under side of the C channel. But I do not know how the wall is gone be finished.
Thanks so much!! Appreciate the tips. We are leaving some space in between the wall to install insulation eventually. It will all make more sense as we make progress. :)
Weld the cantilevered ends of the treads together with a small L piece, then several treads will carry the weight load, greatly reducing flex... while maintaining that floating look.
@@PacificPinesRanch Alternatively you could place stair railing balusters that attach to two stair treads, tying the ends together in the same way I suggested. This is how many spiral staircases are built.
the perfect solution to stop sagging of the stair treads is to place another c channel piece of steel on the other side of the steps. thus the treads have support on both sides.
You should get some chickens and fence them in in the area you plan to have your large greenhouse. They will fertilize the soil well. Alternatively you could build a chicken tractor for them and move them daily within that same area.
Leaving even a speck of rust on there just to save time in the future in the long run it’s leaving rust to build. Rust is like a mold the moisture will find it and grow.
Your "reinforcements" will probably not make any difference on the tread leverage flexing. The web of the C channel is actually what is flexing. The leverage from the unsupported end of the treads is quite significant.
Use a scap piece of steel as a guide to keep the plasma cutter from wobleing and if you can get Rougher sand would be far quicker blasting spray them in wd40 as soon as your finished
I've just started cutting tubes for my floating stairs today ;-) I've been planning it for at least 2 years now and change the design at least a few times. Just a couple weeks ago I was still going to make each tread as an individual piece with its own plate anchored to the concrete wall. But I think I've finally decided to get back to the original idea which in a way resembles what you guys are doing. So I'm rather sure I'll first anchor the 12mm plate to the wall (26 chemically bonded 16mm threaded rods) and then weld the treads to it. I surely hope it won't flex too much but I'm even more afraid it will bend in whichever direction during the welding. Looking how it went in your case maybe I;m overthinking it 🙂 Each tread in my case will be made out of 3 96cm long pieces of a square 50mm tubing with 4mm thick wall welded together with 50mm spacers made of the same tubing. So the steel part will be 250mm "deep" wile the final dimension with some kind of wooden casing (not yet sure, perhaps made of plywood, maybe veneered plywood) is planned to be 295mm. Actually I'll need to make the base plate in 2 big pieces and one small as I only have a 2m long sheet. And also such 2m parts will already be 60kg so not very maneuverable hehe. And that's for 13 out of 16 treads. The bottom two will be placed on pillars sticking out of the floor (hopefully not very visible) and the third step will be actually a mid landing (anchored to the wall on one side and probably a pillar just in case more people would like to stand there since it's larger in area) where stair take a 90 degrees turn to the floating part. I cannot make the bottom part floating because there'a a 2,9m wide and 2,6m tall window there instead of a wall ;-)
It’s always impressive to see a woman learn a blue collar job. To solve the twisting you’ll have anchor the lower lip of the c-channel, if y’all had extended the supporting steel hanging from the ceiling down to the lower lip on the c-channel and a small piece to the corrugated wall that should nearly eliminate all the flex. There will always be some flex, however it will be the best you can get for that style of stairs.
I think I would have put flat strap Contoured to match the container's wall between the container and the top and bottom of your wide c-channel. That would Create your Is rectangular tube you wanted in the first place And make the stairs much more minimalist.
To stop the flexing in your stairs put a centre spline in the middle of treds piece of 3 x 1 . 1/2 wall 3mil. Bolted to floor near fist tred then welded to landing . Weld corner of tred to box section have box section on side for most strength
Nice house design! Looks similar to my 24 x 24 square box with 2/12 roof, except mine is a daylight basement half sunk into the side of a hill. Nice try with the stairs, I built a set of steel stairs going 70ft down a cliff face to the beach so heres my take for what its worth....... The tread (where your foot goes) MUST be between 10 and 11 inches long and the rise MUST be between 7 and 8 inches long........for typical built to code residential framing. I would use 1 inch thick steel treads with no risers. I would use 1 x 12 inch steel for stringer and I would have slots cut in the middle for the treads to slide into and weld together on the backside. I probably wouldnt make them any wider than 3ft. Good luck!
Thx for the input! The stairs will be up to code once we are finished. As I mentioned in the video we are putting something on top of the steel treads. It will all make sense once we make some progress! :)
I assume you heard about the diy recipe for rust converter... After sandblasting the metal will flash rust in minutes... If you were to spray the still wet metal with the diy rust converter you can leave them to dry without the worry any rust will form on the metal. You need a 25% solution between water (rainwater is best) and phosphoric acid and about 5% ethanol added (all % by volume) Phosphoric acid can be bought in a number of % and you can do the math on how much water you need to add to get to the 25% solution. The ethanol can be added afterwards. Say you have 5 Liters of solution you can then add 1/4 Liter of ethanol. You ca use the denatured type (usually it is about 85% pure) so add about 1/3 of a liter to get the mixture about right. You don't need to find pure ethanol, the denatured kind used in ethanol stoves or household cleaning works great too... The ethanol acts as a surfectant and a mild de-greaser and the acid will convert the rust into a much harder and more attached salt (not sure which though) which you can paint over. In fact paints like Hammerite and Rustoleum contain acids which do the same thing... IMHO it is better to do the surface treatment before painting. Especially because "normal" paint is cheaper and the application after sandblasting is easy enough (and it prevents flash rust from forming)
All you have to do is get another piece of angle iron turn it up side down to your steps weld it to the tread and to the riser below.This will give you more tread width(which you nead) and will eliminate the flex cheers from OZ
The c-channel you used for the stairs side beam (where all the steps attach) is not ideal for what you wanted. C-channel is very poor in torsion, which is what happens when you put a force on a step. A closed rectangle (a c-channel with a 4th side) is significantly better in torsion. It may be too late for your project, but may be useful to someone else looking to do the same.
Could you send a link to the sandblast gear you have or similar? We need to blast an old trailer and I think this would be a good option for us. Thank you...
A belated suggestion and kind of a cheap shot but not intended to be so but maybe just cutting a riser for the outside might be simpler? It's looking great.
Thank you!! We don't need them that wide but we were hoping to have a nice wide set of stairs for the main staircase. Worst case scenario we will put some supports on the flexing side.
The stairs are great wicked job. I was just wondering what it would look like if you flip a tread and slide it to sit on the tread and down on the lower riser. It would look like a floating horizontal zig zag
Thank you!! You will see in a future video, but we couldn't do it that way because the vertical part would interfere with what we will put on top of the steel treads. It will all make sense as we progress lol. :)
I lost you for a couple of months, my phone problems, caught up now and what beautiful progress. LOVE the floating stairs. Are you going to place some sort of beautiful Oregon wood on the stair treads? Western Red Cedar perhaps?
I love watching your building yawls home. Y’all have a unique and a very creative way of doing things and that makes your channel. Really awesome keep up the great work guys love your channels and I can’t wait to watch you guys grow.
You guys are doing great work... Here in South Africa, sand was abolished now for years to use as blasting medium, due to Silicosis... Wet or Dry, it is not allowed... I advise that you use respirator with high spec filter...
Absolutely agree. I was holding my breath as they were pouring from one container to another. I think it's also a misconception that if it's in water it isn't a risk... it is.
Thx for the info!! :)
You have to be breathing that for years before you get Silicosis. It would also be interesting to see if it only occurs with smokers. Asbestosis was an issue with only with workers that worked in the mines breathing it every day. It also only occurred in miners that were also smokers. So only in people with damaged cilia in their lungs.. We went all crazy removing it from schools, buildings and break pads for millions of dollars and it was a very good fire retardant and wouldn't harm anyone unless they were in clouds of the stuff. Now the new fire retardants are very toxic when burning. The number one killer of building fires is smoke inhalation and it was made worse with this change.
@@roberthentosh5635 you should not be giving advice on this subject, your knowledge is woefully inaccurate sir. Please re-educate yourself !
Like all the danger rise with high dosage, ergo every day exposure, not if done now and then!
hello.
I am an English learner living in Korea.
I enjoy watching this channel because it is a channel of interest.
I enjoy watching your videos because I can hear your calm and clear pronunciation.
I'm still not very good at it, so I use a translator to comment, but I hope to be able to type it myself soon.
Anyway, it's more fun to watch the video because you and your wife are incredibly handsome and beautiful.
Wow thank you so much!! Glad to hear that. :)
It's amazing how you had never welded and were self taught and now lay dimes!!! Amazing work by both of you! Solid team effort and love watching the Progress!!! Keep up the great work
Thank you so much!! Appreciate it :)
These look like super dangerous stairs for children and people with mobility issues
Will never pass code.
Children should be seen and not heard and kept in the basement.
I would just drill a hole in the far side of your tread where all the bounce is and rig up some cables to the ceiling for support. It would tie into the whole industral look too!
Was thinking the same thing. Then I was thinking maybe som 45 degree support beams coming out of the wall. Or at least some triangle shaped stiffening plates.
Thanks for the tips!! That's a great idea :)
Also it would help them to actually be up to code. You cant have no side railing on stairs like that. Its an obvious danger. Any rise above 3 feet requires railing. Same reason you can't just have a balcony with no sides. Use glass or cables if you want a modern look.
The whole idea behind floating stairs is the lack of supports at one side. The basic design is fine. They simply needed to deal with the twisting moment properly. That would have been rectangle tubes from floor to the yellow beam above in two or three places equal distantly spaced.
@@mikeiver That is what I was going to say. The supports they added carry the vertical load but do not do much for the twisting. They must run behind the C-channel to be welled to both lips/sides.
I read people saying like "everyone is an expert" but the reality is that metal works in a very predictable way, you will find yourself walking on the inside of the stairs because of all the flex. Years down the road they will all be crooked if you don't support the outside, I read a comment about cable wire which is a good idea or if you're going to do railings you can design something nice that also brace the outside of the steps.
Thx for the tips!!
When you are making a floating staircase, you need to fix the supporting plate to the Wall very rigid. That means welding it to the whole length to the container wall, to stop it twisting. You may need to add additional vertical supports under the plate. The hanging supports are not doing much. Also you may want to add infills where the container wall is shaped.
Thanks for the tips!! :)
I think its better if you turn the threads upside down --- the "L" angle will limit your steps as your toes will keep bumping to it. Just my thoughts
I agree
Kind of agree but metal is slippery & having a foot/leg jammed through there would be painful
@@ReeseAndersonbut i believe they have a finishing on top metal threads, timber perhaps?
Let's see what happens.. I feel at this point it looks like the steps are upside down because I think you will probably stub your toe but the other reason is that I think structurally you'll have a better support underneath it I just think it would look better the other way but we haven't seen what you've done yet the other option would be to leave them like that and then add cable to each one of them on the instead of floating free but they'd have cables on the other end let's see how it works maybe we're not seeing all of her design yet she may have other things in to what we're not seeing let's see how it goes
Yeah I think that’s not the finished steps. They will add wood or something, to have full rectangles instead of the L-s.
Hi Team. Great work. I have a similar stairs in my home and over 4 years experience with it. You need to fix two major things, if is not too late. First - all reinforcement elements need to continue to the floor and need to be fixed in the same way as the major bearing beam. You need of more treats(on every 1 m of the distance). Second - every stair need to be reinforced with small triangles on the bottom right side(not exact on the middle, but more close to the front edge, because this is the point of greatest twisting moment). Good luck!
The C-channel should have been right up against the ribbed container wall and welded to every corrugation both upside and downside. This would eliminate almost totally the flexing.
W/o doubt the most beautiful welder I have seen in my whole long life!
Wow thank you!
Fascinating project. One note: That's likely scale, not rust, on the steel. Many people prefer to leave it on, as it projects the metal. Vinegar bath overnight and a quick wire brush may work better for removal for you, though you won't get that sand-blasted look, if you do want rid of it.
Lazers are awesome, I use them all the time for stair balustrades
They are absolutely amazing. Definitely a game changer for leveling anything :)
Prevent rust after sandblasting:
Introduce a little oil into the water supply.
That leaves a thin protective coat, and eliminate the need for post processing.
just a couple things to note as I watch another great video. The deflection in the tread is calculated into riser deviation if you are getting a building inspection. The inspector is within his authority to measure with 300lbs at the furthest point to make this calculation if you are under irc code. A little too late now but if you had boxed that c channel before putting it up it would be as rigid as you need. Another not too late suggestion would be a wedge of 3/8 sheet steel welded vertically under the treads starting as wide as possible from tread to bottom of the stringer and thinning down to about midway along the tread. still would look like floating step but would be ridged enough to support weight needed.
Sincerely,
That pretty cool plumber from Tennessee
Thanks for the info/tips!! Definitely appreciate it :)
Hi. I'm a mechanical engineer. As mrpbright said boxing the c channel would be the way to go. Closed shapes better stand torsion stress.
If you run a plate on the open end connecting all of the stairs, it will make it so all of the stairs share the load so when you step on the first step or any step for that matter it will spread your weight to all of the steps and will eliminate sag on individual steps because the other steps are essentially pulling that step from sagging when you step. It doesn't have to be a huge heavy piece. A simple quarter or half inch thick and maybe six inches wide or whatever you need, running the length of the stairs will do. It's double the welding but will eliminate the sag altogether.
Agree. It will also be a tripping hazard coming down the stairs.
Thanks for the tips!! :)
Hello my dears, I'm loving your work, this house is going to be a dream. I've been following you for a while now and I'm loving your work. The saga of when it rains and ruins the whole plan, but you don't give up and always stay in a good mood.
I really want to see the house complete and finished so I can see you enjoy those wonderful views.
I love you. Kisses and hugs from Portugal ❤❤ 🫶 🇵🇹 👏👏👏👏.
Thank you so much!! We always appreciate your positive and encouraging comments :)
For a final clean up of any steel that you will see try the Restorer tool with the metal cleaning drum which will give you a mirror finish and clean up any imperfections on the surface. It’s a great tool. The drum is like nothing I’ve seen before.
Most people can’t imagine how much you gotta check making those stairs, fn awesome ness.
54:31 you can always try to use steel tubing to get A LOT more welded surface for more stability and "wrap" the tube with a nice wood slab you can glue up to look like a thick slab... That's what I would do...
Thx for the tips!! :)
Depending on design, handrail could provide great stiffening to eliminate individual tread flex at edge. Great job!😉
Thanks for the tip!! :)
You could have welded a backing plate to the stringer flanges to close up the open C section, and effectively creacte a rectangular hollow section.
Beautiful stairs! If you used 1/2” or 3/4” rebar bent into L shapes and ran under the treads to tie all the floating ends together I think that might eliminate the deflection,and wouldn’t take away from the beauty of the stairs.
Thanks so much for the tip! We are trying to keep it as simple as possible so far but we'll consider that in the future.
For the last Adjustments on your Stairs you can wait for the Handrail, because the Stairs hang on this Side, if the Rail is Rockstable 😉 Apart from that: Superbly done
Thank you so much!! Thx for the tips :)
You mentioned you wish you'd used tubing instead of 'C' channel, but if you weld small plates across the back (hidden) at intervals, it will have a similar effect.
Respirators guys i know its a wet sandblaster but it is still putting fine particulates in the air lots of silica in sand bad for lungs . I use to sandblast for a living ships and barges coming in to be repainted and replace the sacrificial anodes ( zinc blocks bolted to the hull) to help prevent rust. Back to the point lungs do not have a way to get rid of solids that end up in lungs aside from coughing but that only gets rid of a little bit . Miners call it black lung so take care of yourselves
Hi, an idea from a german arcitect: you have to weld a smal long plate at the end of every step so the force of all steps is connected to the one you are standing on if you go up and down.
Underground Bunker build, walls stairs and Jeep
Tornado Dave
on the open side on the stairs, you can make L shape piece of the same stairs metal and connect all your open side it will become a nice zig zag line all the way, also it will share the weight over the each stairs to all stairs, then it will stay solid and looks very pretty from the side look.
Thx so much for the tips!! :)
если кто захочет повторить подобную лестницу, то используйте замкнутый профиль для косоура, он гораздо меньше подвержен кручению в сравнении с с-профилем (швеллером), это уже уменьшит провисание. Чтобы вообще исключить провисания необходимо связать свободные концы ступеней вместе
It is not a failure; it is just engineering. Oppenheimer shut down the first attempt on the Manhattan project.
On the reinforcement c-bars, you might be able to "later on" install some tubing along the entire back rail and install some "lighting along the tubing to give it a even more awesome look that it looks now. Just an amazing project you 2 have going on. Continued Success 2 ur channel
Thanks for the tips and support!! I appreciate it. :)
Nicely done but the material thickness is way undersized "fatigue" will get in play because of continuous stretching of the stringer. Stringer should be no less than 1/2" thick, we usually use 5/8 inch and depending on the tread /step width sometimes it has to be even thicker, Your stringer should be thicker then the treads in that case there is no full pen and most cases no need to do ultrasonic weld inspection, as soon as you need full pen you need extensive inspection. But at list you guys doing FCAW not short-circuit-welding (GMAW) method. 26:41 did you notice when you stepped on it flexes, it is flexing to much and that will cause the fatigue over time. Besides nice adaptation of high end staircases.
Edit: adding a little bit more heat to onside or the other will pull the treads to the directions where more heat got applied . Have to make sure you travel with the same speed on both sides /hence same amount of heat on both side to retain level, treads pitch up: add more weld to the bottom and it will pull downward, same goes if you sloop away from the stringer add more weld on top it will pull it back up. But you doing way better than many guys who are " professional welders" and its called "qualified welder" guys, not certified when I hear: "I'm a professional welder I just stay away from that person". (that's for professional use only)
(in some cases you where traveling to fast the weld beads telling me that) lastly it would not pass any building inspections but maybe in your area it does not matter. Regardless nice job
a little 2-3 inch piece coming down from the bottom of the tread to make a "z" would greatly improve the rigidity of the steps
Great tips!! Thank you :)
Stairs have to be some of the most marvelous engineering marvels of the world!! Too often redo's are a common part of building them. I use goggles when I use my plasma cutter, less clutter and seem to see better.
Thx for the tips!! :)
This is soooo cool!!!!
..... Идея неплоха, даже хороша с точки зрения дизайна. Но конструктив себя проявит со временем. Плюс вопрос глубины ступени. Голос сварщика обварожителен, впрочем как и взгляд....)
if that is beach sand you are impregnating the steel with salt and it will rust out rather quickly under what ever coating you put on it
Great skin cute stuff❤❤❤
Metal has pores like our skin.
after removing the rust you’ve opened up the pores .
being that you use water as part of your aggregate ;
water
you may not see ..its there
it’s important to close the pores of the steel and finish the drying of the surface,
which could take a few days.
But if done mechanically or chemically,
you can immediately dry and seal the steel
so not to inhibit that rust color
that immediately happens
as it’s laid to dry when you’re finished with the blasting
while you’re blasting,
you can see the surface of the steel and how clean and whitish it looks.
But oxidization happens as the oxygen reaches the surface.
as soon as you’re done, you can see an orange haze begin to grow.
It’s like a window
if you were to take the water off the surface immediately ,
instead of allowing it to air dry, you will prevent that orange haze,
mechanically, sanding And polishing and sealing the metal will prevent that rust color coming back ,
although I like it a little you can even seal in parts of that color if you like
Or even leave bare areas to rustNaturally
it’s all an opinion..
looks like you’re near the water so I thought I’d share I’m actually a hairstylist, but I look at surfaces microscopically as if their hair so conditioning your hair you know after a good color and shellac..
😉🥳
Loving your stairs and the overall textures and design throughout this build !!🎉
Thanks so much!! Thanks for the all tips and info!! :)
i can see myself getting my foot stuck or injured in the gap between the rise and run of the stairs. hope you have a plan to cover that.
I believe you could have put a brace, I.e. 750 tubing from each riser to the floor and make it look awesome, either way it’s awesome.
I enjoyed watching your video and metal work! Great job! - Las Vegas, NV
Hey Guys! your need to use not "U", but rectangle profile steel... Rectangle profile is most stable structure and prevent longitudinal twisting...
You are totally right! You live you learn :)
The staircase is coming on looking wonderful. I can't wait to see the finished item.
Thank you so much!! Us too :)
Flexure reduction: geopolymer concrete for its weight is extremely strong in compression and more closely matches steel in flexure than OPC, plus is more environmentally resistant. It might be the right 'secret sauce' to inject to reinforce behind the C-channel.
Just a pro tip, do not pre-drill concrete and stone with a small drill bit, the load on the edge of the larger drill bit will then be too high and the tip of that drill bit may be damaged.
Great to see people having a go, however when doing your welds, especially the verticals, you really should be laying down at least two extra filler welds.
Love the video as always.
Now I had a thought. Why not make a top plate for on top of the C channel and weld the to the wall, and to the same on the under side of the C channel. But I do not know how the wall is gone be finished.
Thanks so much!! Appreciate the tips. We are leaving some space in between the wall to install insulation eventually. It will all make more sense as we make progress. :)
Weld the cantilevered ends of the treads together with a small L piece, then several treads will carry the weight load, greatly reducing flex... while maintaining that floating look.
Great suggestions! Thank you :)
@@PacificPinesRanch Alternatively you could place stair railing balusters that attach to two stair treads, tying the ends together in the same way I suggested. This is how many spiral staircases are built.
Hindsight always being 20/20, if it's your c channel that's deflecting, I would think boxing in the c channel would help. Next time❤
Thank you for the tips!! :)
May not matter to anyone, but Great Music! Lmao Just adds to an already great time watching y'all's progress on some pretty awesome steps
Thanks for your input!! I appreciate it and glad to hear you enjoy it. :)
Personally I'd chalk this up to a lesson learned and put another stringer in, do it with box steel next time so you can have two points of contact.
very inspired
Wow you're incredible. Subbed
Thanks so much!!
Looks great, keep going
Thank you!!
the perfect solution to stop sagging of the stair treads is to place another c channel piece of steel on the other side of the steps. thus the treads have support on both sides.
Thanks for the tips!! :)
You should get some chickens and fence them in in the area you plan to have your large greenhouse. They will fertilize the soil well. Alternatively you could build a chicken tractor for them and move them daily within that same area.
We would absolutely love to have chickens and it's in our future plans! :)
Great work!!! You guys really build things to last.
Thanks so much!! :)
Another great job & video
Thank you so much!!
Awesomeness ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you!! :)
Great job.
Thank you!!
Leaving even a speck of rust on there just to save time in the future in the long run it’s leaving rust to build. Rust is like a mold the moisture will find it and grow.
Totally!! :)
in the sponsor ad when the dog was in the garden did anyone else catch that he lifted his back leg 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Your "reinforcements" will probably not make any difference on the tread leverage flexing. The web of the C channel is actually what is flexing. The leverage from the unsupported end of the treads is quite significant.
We are working on it! :)
Use a scap piece of steel as a guide to keep the plasma cutter from wobleing and if you can get Rougher sand would be far quicker blasting spray them in wd40 as soon as your finished
Thx for the tips!! :)
This is a neat idea. I might try something similar.
you guys are so precise and creative!
Thanks so much!! :)
I am impressed by what you are doing. I am always excited to see the next steps. 💪
Thank you so much!! :)
Hindsight is 20/20, but some gusset ribs on the inside of the c-chanel would have at least doubled the torsional strength.
Thx for the tips!! :)
C’est très bien j’aime bien touts vos ouvrages
Vous travaillez très dire et faire des merveilleux traveaux c’est admirable ❤
Merci beaucoup!!! :)
Great job guys!!! Looking good!
Thank you!! :)
Very Good.❤❤❤😊😊😊
Thank you!! :)
I've just started cutting tubes for my floating stairs today ;-) I've been planning it for at least 2 years now and change the design at least a few times. Just a couple weeks ago I was still going to make each tread as an individual piece with its own plate anchored to the concrete wall. But I think I've finally decided to get back to the original idea which in a way resembles what you guys are doing. So I'm rather sure I'll first anchor the 12mm plate to the wall (26 chemically bonded 16mm threaded rods) and then weld the treads to it. I surely hope it won't flex too much but I'm even more afraid it will bend in whichever direction during the welding. Looking how it went in your case maybe I;m overthinking it 🙂
Each tread in my case will be made out of 3 96cm long pieces of a square 50mm tubing with 4mm thick wall welded together with 50mm spacers made of the same tubing. So the steel part will be 250mm "deep" wile the final dimension with some kind of wooden casing (not yet sure, perhaps made of plywood, maybe veneered plywood) is planned to be 295mm. Actually I'll need to make the base plate in 2 big pieces and one small as I only have a 2m long sheet. And also such 2m parts will already be 60kg so not very maneuverable hehe. And that's for 13 out of 16 treads. The bottom two will be placed on pillars sticking out of the floor (hopefully not very visible) and the third step will be actually a mid landing (anchored to the wall on one side and probably a pillar just in case more people would like to stand there since it's larger in area) where stair take a 90 degrees turn to the floating part. I cannot make the bottom part floating because there'a a 2,9m wide and 2,6m tall window there instead of a wall ;-)
Wow that sounds like a really cool project!! :)
It’s always impressive to see a woman learn a blue collar job. To solve the twisting you’ll have anchor the lower lip of the c-channel, if y’all had extended the supporting steel hanging from the ceiling down to the lower lip on the c-channel and a small piece to the corrugated wall that should nearly eliminate all the flex. There will always be some flex, however it will be the best you can get for that style of stairs.
Thx for the tips!! Appreciate it :)
I think I would have put flat strap Contoured to match the container's wall between the container and the top and bottom of your wide c-channel. That would Create your Is rectangular tube you wanted in the first place And make the stairs much more minimalist.
Thanks for the tips!! :)
To stop the flexing in your stairs put a centre spline in the middle of treds piece of 3 x 1 . 1/2 wall 3mil. Bolted to floor near fist tred then welded to landing . Weld corner of tred to box section have box section on side for most strength
Thanks for the tips!! :)
You are really lucky to be able to get sand for your blaster, here (Sweden) you are allowed to buy this in 5 kg bags
We buy it by the ton in our area (there is a lot of it). :)
at minute marker 1:25 did she throw up a gang sign?? Crips in the house !!!! lolol
Lol if I did it wasn't intentional
Nice house design! Looks similar to my 24 x 24 square box with 2/12 roof, except mine is a daylight basement half sunk into the side of a hill. Nice try with the stairs, I built a set of steel stairs going 70ft down a cliff face to the beach so heres my take for what its worth.......
The tread (where your foot goes) MUST be between 10 and 11 inches long and the rise MUST be between 7 and 8 inches long........for typical built to code residential framing.
I would use 1 inch thick steel treads with no risers. I would use 1 x 12 inch steel for stringer and I would have slots cut in the middle for the treads to slide into and weld together on the backside.
I probably wouldnt make them any wider than 3ft.
Good luck!
Thx for the input! The stairs will be up to code once we are finished. As I mentioned in the video we are putting something on top of the steel treads. It will all make sense once we make some progress! :)
Awesome work guys 😎
Thanks so much!!
I assume you heard about the diy recipe for rust converter... After sandblasting the metal will flash rust in minutes... If you were to spray the still wet metal with the diy rust converter you can leave them to dry without the worry any rust will form on the metal.
You need a 25% solution between water (rainwater is best) and phosphoric acid and about 5% ethanol added (all % by volume)
Phosphoric acid can be bought in a number of % and you can do the math on how much water you need to add to get to the 25% solution. The ethanol can be added afterwards. Say you have 5 Liters of solution you can then add 1/4 Liter of ethanol. You ca use the denatured type (usually it is about 85% pure) so add about 1/3 of a liter to get the mixture about right. You don't need to find pure ethanol, the denatured kind used in ethanol stoves or household cleaning works great too...
The ethanol acts as a surfectant and a mild de-greaser and the acid will convert the rust into a much harder and more attached salt (not sure which though) which you can paint over.
In fact paints like Hammerite and Rustoleum contain acids which do the same thing... IMHO it is better to do the surface treatment before painting. Especially because "normal" paint is cheaper and the application after sandblasting is easy enough (and it prevents flash rust from forming)
Thanks for the tips!! :)
It’s looking good 😎
Thank you!! :)
Love it!
Thank you!! :)
All you have to do is get another piece of angle iron turn it up side down to your steps weld it to the tread and to the riser below.This will give you more tread width(which you nead) and will eliminate the flex cheers from OZ
Thx for the info!! We still have a lot of work to do and more materials to add to the stairs so we'll see how it develops. :)
👌👍👋
Bravo travailler le fer donne beaucoup de travail et vous êtes très professionnel et méticuleux
Merci beaucoup!!! :)
wow who would have thought
The c-channel you used for the stairs side beam (where all the steps attach) is not ideal for what you wanted. C-channel is very poor in torsion, which is what happens when you put a force on a step.
A closed rectangle (a c-channel with a 4th side) is significantly better in torsion.
It may be too late for your project, but may be useful to someone else looking to do the same.
Could you send a link to the sandblast gear you have or similar? We need to blast an old trailer and I think this would be a good option for us. Thank you...
Absolutely! WET SANDBLASTER:
-amzn.to/3Sxiie5
-Pressure Washer: amzn.to/45VQAKR
looks nice!
Thank you!! :)
A belated suggestion and kind of a cheap shot but not intended to be so but maybe just cutting a riser for the outside might be simpler? It's looking great.
Thank you so much!! :) We will see how it develops and make changes as needed. Appreciate the tips :)
Doing a great job. Question, do you need the steps that wide? If they were shorter, would they not flex as much?
Thank you!! We don't need them that wide but we were hoping to have a nice wide set of stairs for the main staircase. Worst case scenario we will put some supports on the flexing side.
Looking awesome!!! Those stairs are the coolest!
Thanks so much!! We really appreciate it :)
Wow. 🤩 Best regards from Germany 👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much!! :)
Dang, that's going to look good when you finish
Thanks so much!! :)
The stairs are great wicked job. I was just wondering what it would look like if you flip a tread and slide it to sit on the tread and down on the lower riser. It would look like a floating horizontal zig zag
Thank you!! You will see in a future video, but we couldn't do it that way because the vertical part would interfere with what we will put on top of the steel treads. It will all make sense as we progress lol. :)
What is the rise and run ?
Are they close to 18 inches when added ?
Rise is something like 7+ inches and run is 11 inches.
u need a long triangular bracket to support underneath the stairs
Thanks for the tips!! :)
I lost you for a couple of months, my phone problems, caught up now and what beautiful progress. LOVE the floating stairs. Are you going to place some sort of beautiful Oregon wood on the stair treads? Western Red Cedar perhaps?
I love watching your building yawls home. Y’all have a unique and a very creative way of doing things and that makes your channel. Really awesome keep up the great work guys love your channels and I can’t wait to watch you guys grow.
Thank you so much!! Appreciate it :)