I only wish I could have found you Caption Ron ten years ago. I would have saved not only the Anguish of the CFI subcontractors but Thousands of DOLARS. Your videos are Professional, to the max. Thank You Sir!!
My rotor head has bushings and I have to oil them every 5-10 hours or so as instructed by the fellow who build my (homemade) gyro. I just use a dab of oil from the engine dipstick like he showed me and I dont have to remove the hub bar I just remove the teeter nut and pop each bushing out most of the way to expose them for lubrication. Thanks for the video Ron all the best
Nice video Ron. In AR-1 I got rid of air compressor and the Bendix just goes up and engages ring gear mechanically as you squeeze the pre-rotator engagement handle. Similar to Magni. The rotor brake is also just over center lever activated by a handle under the pilot seat. No air or hydraulic. Although I do get complains that rotor brake does not hold the rotor enough in high winds. I have not seen that as a big problem by Gyro-technic hydraulic brake is definitely stronger. I do not like having to oil the bushings in the teeter towers. There is no need for that if you design it out. In our case the teeter block on the hub bar has bearings in it. The teeter bolt is snug tight and does not move at all. It is the teeter block bearings that move. Thus there is no wear on the teeter bolt. It isn't the bearing surface. That keeps the dynamic balance and tracking of the system intact for much longer.
Being that gyros do not have driven rotors wouldn't it be a lot safer to not have a pre-rotor or a brake? If anything goes wrong and jams up you'll lose rotor speed and die. The teeter bolt is a shockingly small diameter. Being that if any one of those bolts fail you are dead scares me. Also not a lot of material around the teeter bolt. BTW I work in aerospace manufacturing, and it still scares me how small the bolts are for that job.
a 12 mm Class 8.8 or class 10.9 teeter bolt in double sheer will handle 25 G load. You should be more worried about all that Aluminum around to break first. You can fly with the rotor brake on. It will burn up the rotor brake pad but it does not stop the rotor once in flight. Although the hydraulic rotor brake of GyroTechnic might be more powerful. I am sure it has been tested in case it has a hydraulic lock. The brake is there just to help slow down the rotor faster. It isn't like car brakes on the wheels.
So why....(after asking everyone with no answer yet) are there no 3 blade shorter span rotors on gyro's that smooths out the retreating blade effects as well as reduced the rotor disk drag and stick shake? Aren't gyro's so slow due to the huge disk area of a floppy 27' rotors? Why not smaller diameter 3 blade?
A three blade rotor will not work because it will not teeter properly. It would need a variable pitch rotor head like a helicopter. At that point just fly a helicopter instead.
3 blades are non-teetering rotor and you need to manipulate flapping hinges which is not a simple rotor system and not allowed by law in ULM or Sport Pilot rules. The teetering 2 blade fixed pitch rotor system is about as simple as they come
I only wish I could have found you Caption Ron ten years ago. I would have saved not only the Anguish of the CFI subcontractors but Thousands of DOLARS. Your videos are Professional, to the max. Thank You Sir!!
Great show-n-tell, Ron. Thanks for sharing!
FOUND, SUBSCRIBED, LIKED and KDOS 😊
That was truly educational for me.
Nice to see the Gyro Technic part included. They have engineered an excellent product, in my opinion.
Excellent 👍
My rotor head has bushings and I have to oil them every 5-10 hours or so as instructed by the fellow who build my (homemade) gyro. I just use a dab of oil from the engine dipstick like he showed me and I dont have to remove the hub bar I just remove the teeter nut and pop each bushing out most of the way to expose them for lubrication. Thanks for the video Ron all the best
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Just what I have been searchingfor❤
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge sir🙏great video, hard to find enough Info on gyros .
Well done!
Nice video Ron. In AR-1 I got rid of air compressor and the Bendix just goes up and engages ring gear mechanically as you squeeze the pre-rotator engagement handle. Similar to Magni. The rotor brake is also just over center lever activated by a handle under the pilot seat. No air or hydraulic. Although I do get complains that rotor brake does not hold the rotor enough in high winds. I have not seen that as a big problem by Gyro-technic hydraulic brake is definitely stronger.
I do not like having to oil the bushings in the teeter towers. There is no need for that if you design it out. In our case the teeter block on the hub bar has bearings in it. The teeter bolt is snug tight and does not move at all. It is the teeter block bearings that move. Thus there is no wear on the teeter bolt. It isn't the bearing surface. That keeps the dynamic balance and tracking of the system intact for much longer.
Great video Ron,what type and grade are teeter bolts usually or range from
Is bunting still an issue? And do wings offer enhanced safety?
Let me just try and separate these two things like I know what I’m doing
Where does the AUTOGYRO pre rotation system get the air pressure from? Is there a pump on the engine?
From an air compressor built under the seat that runs on electric power
Can all this be replaced if they would use an electric motor in a case near the rotors
You can maybe get 120 Rotor RPM with electric. You need 7 HP to get 220 RRPM and that is a heavy motor taking up a lot of battery
Being that gyros do not have driven rotors wouldn't it be a lot safer to not have a pre-rotor or a brake? If anything goes wrong and jams up you'll lose rotor speed and die. The teeter bolt is a shockingly small diameter. Being that if any one of those bolts fail you are dead scares me. Also not a lot of material around the teeter bolt. BTW I work in aerospace manufacturing, and it still scares me how small the bolts are for that job.
a 12 mm Class 8.8 or class 10.9 teeter bolt in double sheer will handle 25 G load. You should be more worried about all that Aluminum around to break first. You can fly with the rotor brake on. It will burn up the rotor brake pad but it does not stop the rotor once in flight. Although the hydraulic rotor brake of GyroTechnic might be more powerful. I am sure it has been tested in case it has a hydraulic lock. The brake is there just to help slow down the rotor faster. It isn't like car brakes on the wheels.
So why....(after asking everyone with no answer yet) are there no 3 blade shorter span rotors on gyro's that smooths out the retreating blade effects as well as reduced the rotor disk drag and stick shake? Aren't gyro's so slow due to the huge disk area of a floppy 27' rotors? Why not smaller diameter 3 blade?
A three blade rotor will not work because it will not teeter properly. It would need a variable pitch rotor head like a helicopter. At that point just fly a helicopter instead.
3 blades are non-teetering rotor and you need to manipulate flapping hinges which is not a simple rotor system and not allowed by law in ULM or Sport Pilot rules. The teetering 2 blade fixed pitch rotor system is about as simple as they come