I tried this out several years ago and was punching holes in 3/16 aluminum plate at 25 yards. Never clocked the velocity, but I knew it was fast. Thanks for posting some actual test data with a chronograph. Amazing velocity!
Ryan, I wached both videos. Yours, and Taofladremaus'. Both times the skirt stuck in the bore, I think was because the crimped portion of the blank was inside the pellet skirt. When the round goes off, it expands faster than the pellet can leave. It looks like it traps the lead ring between the brass, and the bore. Still a workable alternative in a SHTF situation.
Sorry for not responding earlier. You are definitely correct on the skirt popping off if the nose of the blank is too close or inside the skirt. I did have other instances where I knew the pellet was beyond the front of the blank and the skirt would sometimes separate and sometimes not. This inconsistency leads me to the conclusion that we are right around the physical limitations of the combination I was using. I do have some upcoming videos with different loads and nail gun blanks that might prove more enlightening.
I tried the nail blank/.22 pellet thing years ago. Surprised at how loud it was, and the penetration. The pellet would penetrate the front of a 55-gallon drum, and deeply dent the back side. Never chronographed the pellets, but figured they were Mach 2 anyway. If the skirt shears off in the barrel, try another brand of pellet; not all of them do it.
Wish I had seen your video before trying the double pellet launch a couple of years ago.Fired from a bolt-action with a level 4 the cartridge burst and I received several brass fragments in my forehead. Always wear your Z-87's friends.
I watched your video, and I just wanted to post the averages of your chronographs. long rifle 1880.6 avarage fps power level 2 2323.8 avarage fps power level 3 2820.6 avarage fps power level 4 average of 470 fps difference between each level pistol 1057.6 avarage fps power level 2 1514 avarage fps power level 3 1863.8 avarage fps power level 4 average of 403.1 fps difference between each level I don't know much about guns, but that seems crazy fast. Anyway, loved your work, keep doing what you do.
Thanks. I was leaving that work to somebody else. Math is hard. Interesting the differences between the loads. I wonder how that translates to force on the nail guns? Don't have much experience using these like they are intended!
You think math is hard!?! I'm only 20, only a year out of high school, and that little piece was something I learned in 6th grade. I was in advanced mathematics by freshman year, and THAT was hard. For finding the average of anything, find the sum of the variables, then divide by the number of variables e.g. you did 5 (five) shots with each level, and you got a reading for each shot. You add the readings for each shot, then divide by 5 (five).
I've used power loads as blanks in a conventional .22 caliber revolver for sound effects during police training exercises. .22 caliber blanks are too expensive and blank firing pistols and revolvers are JUNK and can't be depended on. Most blank guns are made of pot metal and wear out after a few hundred rounds. I used my Smith and Wesson K-22 revolver with various power level loads, depending on if the training was being done inside or outside. Power loads are very loud, inexpensive and cased no trouble. I used them only for sound effects and never pointed the gun anywhere except at the floor. I'm sure it is dangerous to point them at anyone, since some metal may come off the cartridge, not to mention the danger of accidentely chambering a live round
Just put in the pellet then seat it with the 22 blank...the tapered blank fits in the pellets skirt. Simple and fast and consistant i have 2 500rd bricks of primed(only)22short cases..i push the pellets in flush nose first..shoot them across my living room..in revolvers..cost more then live ammo.
No. Leading is overstated. The worst leading is usually in revolvers and pistols with polygonal rifling. The pellets were already engraved in the rifling and therefore the transition area that usually gets the most leading was already free. I did fire several copper jacketed bullets before and after the lead. What that does is it deposits a layer of copper and carbon against the bore and the lead that IS deposited goes on top of that. Soak it a day or so in any bore solvent (I use just plain Break Free) and there are no issues getting whatever might be there out. In my case, there were ZERO deposits. I've done this for years and only ever had to clean lead out of used guns that were poorly maintained. H&R 32's and 38's have a forcing cone that just grabs lead and holds on tight.
+RyeOnHam I've been wanting to try this out in a few of my .22's. I think the velocity increase is because of the pellets having a hollow base. With a hollow base, you get almost a perfect gas seal and that in turn gives you a more uniform burn of your powder instead of the gases blowing by the bullet as with gas cutting and causing leading. Plus the pellets are soft lead and soft lead matched with a hollow base goes together like peanut butter and jelly. This would be a great survival option especially with a single shot like the Rossi since you have to single load them anyway. Again, great video.
William Sanders Yeah a lighter bullet is faster, but the hollow base of the pellet is a big factor here too. Just like a heavy crimped bullet will give you a more consistent powder burn and in turn a little more velocity. I've done a lot of testing with hollow base Ideal Keith bullets in .44 magnum/special loads and the classic 429421 keith flat-base. You get a good deal more speed and better standard deviation with hollow base loads because of the hollow base expanding and sealing the cylinder throat and then into the forcing cone and the bore. And of course hollow base bullets have to be cast softer so that they can obturate in the bore. The bullet weight being lighter is a big factor too. With a soft bullet half the weight with technically the same powder, combined with a hollow base, your going to have a significant velocity increase. In short, yes the bullet being lighter is a big factor, but it's not the only one. Just my experience. Thanks for the reply
Rye, I would also be curious to see you test the amour 22 caliber pellets. These pellets are a 22 caliber pellet with a .177 caliber BB glued into the tip. Several companies make these pellets. My guess is that you would be able to penitrate a 1/4 inch steel plate, perhaps even body amor as these pellets weigh roughly 17-21 grains and should be traveling somewhere in the 2,500-2,600 fps range using the #4 blanks. Thanks again, I really enjoyed your videos.
James Wilburn Given my experience firing M855 at various things over the years, I highly doubt the armour 22 pellets would penetrate a 1/4" steel plate even at the velocities one would get with the nail-gun blanks. I will likely be doing more pellet videos in the future. Stay tuned.
Rye, Thank you for the reply. I was only taking a guess at that one, lol. I have shot the penitrators out of my 22 caliber Walther Taylon Magnum pellet rifle at approximately 1,000 fps at an abandoned, burnt up 2009? Chyrsler mini van. I was able to penitrate the tail gate, the thin metal dash panel and it lodged into the firewall. That is my extended of testing those particular pellets. I usually shoot Crossman Premier 22 caliber hollow points (14.3 grain) or Predator Polymag (16 grain) at standard targets. I have done some serious bullet testing with my 300 Winchester Magnums, 180 grain @ 3,450 fps with 4,125 ft lbs muzzle energy from Hornady SST GMX ammo will blow holes straight through 1/2 inch steel like a drill press at 100 yards. Anyway I am now rambling on. I throughly enjoy your videos, please keep them coming. BTW Pyramid air is a great source for Pellets, great prices, hundreds of selections in 22 caliber, buy 3 get a 4th tin free. Thanks again, JAMES
I've checked into Pyramid Air on the premium pellets, and I have to say the same thing I've said dozens of times: Pellets are expensive! When you take .22 lr ammunition... LOADED ammunition into account, there is no pellet that should be worth more than a CCI Mini-Mag. Yet, MOST of the premium pellets are more expensive. Given that the nail-gun blanks are already more expensive than bulk 22 ammo, it's really hard to come up with an advantage for any pellet. Interesting? Maybe. Useful? Not really.
I absolutely agree, I just enjoy watching your test, lol. I have no plans of doing this myself as I also own six 22 rifles and currently have a stock pile of 10,000 rounds of Remington Golden Bullets as well as another 800 round brick of Winchesters. Again I just really enjoy your test videos. I usually only shoot my pellet guns on my property as there is a neighbor fairly close. I will shoot my 22 rifles on occasion but, I do not wish to alarm anyone in the neighborhood close to me as I can imagine the blanks and pellets crack off louder then a standard velocity 22 lr. Thank you again, I'll keep watching.
The session was cut short. I had planned on grouping the Browns and Greens. I started with the Yellow (level 4) but the gun was shooting too high. I then took the 22 lr's out and sighted it in but ran out of time to print some groups with the other two loads. I think the Brown is actually the best candidate for accuracy, safety, and reduced leading in the bore. Subscribe; I will get a follow-up video done someday.
Loved the experiments mate- Keep up the good work!! By the way, Are the Crosman pellets pure lead as here in the UK I believe a lot of them have a large percentage of antimony which is a metal not unlike lead in weight and appearance but is much more brittle than lead and tends to shatter upon impact!!
I do not know if they are pure lead or not. They shattered pretty good in my ballistic gel test you can watch here: ua-cam.com/video/HYElPDLPosE/v-deo.html I had other pellets that acted softer, but I don't have any real way of testing lead for antimony or tin content.
Interesting results. I think if you used TAC heavy (17gr) pellets they would work better because they have a smaller skirt and are made out of tin alloy. Those are about 2x the cost of regular pellets though.
I have a series of videos. I shoot balls, double-ball loads, and I think I did a pellet with a ball duplex loads. Can't remember. Been a few years. Thanks for watching!
1) Not going to readdress where I put the pellet. Putting it farther down the barrel lowers pressure and velocity... why not just use the lighter blanks to achieve the same thing? 2) Because, as I've said earlier, heavier pellets are not readily available. If you can't find the pellets, you can't shoot them. Also, ALL of the pellets suggested so far are at least double the price, sometimes four or five times the price plus you have to pay shipping.
Hallo, i would recommed to use "filled skirt" pellets when propelled by blanks; as it is used in the munisalva system, -blank + filled skirt pellet or bb- wich is legal in some countries where fireguns are unlawed.
Thanks and thank you for watching. I have a half-dozen other videos on nail gun blanks with accuracy, ballistics gel, etc if you'd like to check them out!
nice video. if you are going to do this again you should try h&n rabbit magnum II pellets. these are more solids so they don't have skirts and they are quite heavy (aprox. 25 grains).
I tried several other varieties, but the bottom line is that more expensive pellets reduce the effectiveness of these loads exponentially. I do have some videos ready to post (one going up this afternoon) that will give a better idea of what these loads are capable of.
My question is would this work in a .22lr Revolver kind of like the old cap and ball revolvers and would putting a wad in front or behind the projectile be safe ?
As for the skirts, the pressure is hitting too fast, skirt spreads like it is supposed to but it's so violent that it sticks to the sides while the rest of the pellet is fired. If you fill in the skirt with lead or file it down to no-skirt, it would probably work a lot better. The skirts are setup for air which has a lot lower ramp up to full pressure so it needs the weak rimmed skirt to capture all the air but not push so hard against the bore that it is slowed down.
Nice work! And btw, the plural of TAOFLEDERMAUS would be TAOFLEDERMÄUSE :-D (Fledermaus is german for bat (the flying animal, not the baseball-hitter kind)).
I bought the Rossi .22/.410 single shot partly in response to this video, and partly because it was on sale at a great discount...have fired both barrels, but now going to try this experiment...got the #4's already...pellets next...looks like a bunch of fun!
Have fun and be safe. Duplex loads were not working and were blowing out cases so if you're trying it, ensure you have eye protection. When I ran 100 more pellets through the bore, I did end up with leading that required some attention about where the rifling started. Brass bore brush on a drill and 30 seconds or so got all the lead (doesn't hurt the bore). Other than that, I'll have accuracy tests up soon that were quite surprising.
RyeOnHam Thanks...I don't plan to do Duplex loads, and I have an option...Copper .22 cal Pellets...spendy, but the copper won't foul the barrel, and are harder than the lead. This looks like it will be a fun experience, and I'll come back and let you know how the copper pellets work. I also got pointed .22 cal lead pellets, (as opposed to rounded heads), all they had, but supposedly fly straighter, (?)...we shall see!
I think the copper pellets will hold together better, but, ugh, the price. I looked up a pellet somebody suggested earlier and it was $10 for 110 of them. Add $6 for 100 blanks and you're getting near 9mm range there. I'm interested how your experiment will go.
RyeOnHam Another thing about the Copper Pellets...they are only 14.4 grains...very light, yet the Copper is stronger than the Lead...it will be interesting....I am looking for the "other" Pellets, the higher weight just might compensate for the lower velocity in the accuracy department...this is looking like a fun experiment.....
I will and I'll try to remember to get video of it. I've got a machining business and do a little video here and there if you're interested in that kind of stuff.
A idea for a next stage of testing this could be to use copper .22 air rifle pellets. Copper has a much higher yield strength than lead so the skirts might stay attached with the high velocity charges.
I will be doing follow-up videos, but unless something changes, there will be nothing expensive involved. Just diminishing returns on a concept of dubious value anyway.
+Demon50 There are 6 different ranges in this complex and the ranges on either side of the one I was on were hot at the time. There are berms inbetween the ranges so there is no danger to me.
+Pantharen Your math only applies in Loonies. We can't hardly get .22 at all in the states and when we can, you sure as hell ain't gonna find 1400 rounds of Winchester Golden Bullet for $70... partly because Remington makes the Golden Bullet stuff. And a .17 caliber at 1200 fps is good, but it's a few orders of magnitude less energy than a .22 caliber at 2800 fps. Send some of your Canuck ammo down here and I'll send you some half-price nail-gun blanks!
Just bought 2 buckets for $79.99 each. They sold out in 2 hours, it was a non advertised sale. So gold mine! I think normally it goes for $109? IDK, never seen 1400 round buckets for sale before.
Looks like a break open action .22 is the ideal platform for this. Great job by the way, you can certainly tell that the longer barrel lets all the powder burn up and increases the velocity by a wide margin. I saw TAOFLEDERMAUS' video and the pellets look like great varmint killers. Have you done accuracy testing? a 6 inch group at 50 feet is terrible, but a well sighted in rifle testing various pellet designs might just be the ticket. Great Job.
I have not (yet) done accuracy testing beyond the one group you see in the video. My video session was interrupted. I may do accuracy testing in the future. If you're subscribed, it should come up in your feed. Thanks for watching!
@thewonderfrog The accuracy problem is likely due to the fact a .22 pellet is actually .218 as is the air rifle barrel. Whereas a .22 LR is .223 as is the barrel. A more interesting test would be to take an air rifle barrel, and retro fit it to a .22 LR action, then ream out the end of the air rifle barrel enough to get the 22 Ramset blank into it. Even better if you had deeper pockets, have a custom made air rifle barrel with faster twist rifling.
Ejecting on power level 3 and not on power level two shows that the chamber pressure is probably close to .22 lr. And power level four is likely close to .22mag.
I have a bunch of .22 liner and a lathe i think ill make a muzzle loader type setup for loads like this. if the chamber is cut just long enough for the blanks you get no air space between load and blank making it safer in regards to chamber pressures. may help with the pellet separating problem too.
Perhaps a felt wad? Just trying to translate muzzleloader techniques. I don't know if I would go so far as to modify a barrel for it. TFM said he had attempted to glue the pellet to the blank. I think that you might get poor results. The best I can figure, the reason I had case head separation was that the petals on the blank were stuck in the base of the bullet and did not have a chance to open. This created an artificial high-pressure zone in the cartridge. I think it's important that the pellet is engaged in the rifling and that it is forward enough to allow the blank to open up completely.
RyeOnHam I request to make some lubrication oil like engine oil in side the mozzle ,and make less trace between bellets and blank cartidge or make a little sticking plaster between them ok ,I want to ask what kind of rifle are you use? thank
+Haider Alghrabli I do not follow what you are saying you want me to do, but it sounds like it would increase pressures to unsafe levels. If you are subscribed, I will have some other ideas I will be trying within the next year, hopefully.
Thanks ,but what about the idea with plaster to paste the bellets with cartidge when the weapon goes vertically and getting best start up speed just few of plaster , and you forgot to answer me of what is the name of rifle ? do you know turkish guns for sounds ? , I think your rifle is petter the problem with cartidge foil
+Haider Alghrabli I assume you are not a native English speaker and I am having difficulty with the words you are using understanding what you mean. The pellets cannot be glued to the blanks because the blanks need to open up when fired. Anything that interferes with that opening such as glue, tape, or the pellet itself, will cause variations in velocity and pressure that we don't want. The intent is to have repeatable location of the pellet in the barrel, velocity, and pressure. There is no name for the gun. It is a Rossi Matched Pair: www.rossiusa.com/product-details.cfm?id=113 I own one Turkish-made gun. It is a 12 gauge break-action similar to this .22 Rossi, except that it folds so the barrel is under the stock. I will make a video about it someday. I hope to purchase an MKE made MP5 in the near future.
I did this when I was 13 years old with a Remington 511 Targetmaster back in 1967. It was my dads gun. He wasn't home !! I could tell, it was much faster than my Sheridan.
+Greg Lindsey LOL, always when Dad is not home. I had some interesting and mildly dangerous adventures of my own while dad worked 14 hours a day. It's a wonder I have all my fingers and both eyes.
You gotta use alloy pellets, there stronger and the skirt won't break off. they also don't disintegrate on impact. I've penetrated a 3/8 thick aluminium plate with the yellow Ramset and gamo rocket
You're throwing around terms a bit loosely here. "Alloy" does not describe a manufacturer and brand. "Aluminum" is what we call it here in the states and it comes in alloys too numerous to name. I presume you are talking about tin or copper pellets. The problem I have with those projectiles is that they cost more than loaded .22 LR boutique ammunition... the fancy expensive stuff. Why not just buy .22 LR ammunition at that point? Even during the height of the ammo shortage, you could always pay 25 cents a round for the expensive .22 LR, so it's not an availability issue. That said, I do have some upcoming videos (so long as UA-cam starts paying me again) featuring various .22 loads you have not seen yet. You're welcome to send me some expensive 'alloy' pellets and I'll shoot them, I just don't see shelling out my own hard-earned money since the UA-cam ad revenue crash.
Rye on Ham... a few years back I had a junk Beeman pellet rifle. Drilled out the back 1/4 inch of rifling to insert a shot gun shell primer. I would fire a .177 cal pellet through a 2x4.. The method to detonate the primer was through entirely just dieseling.. you would insert a few drop of motor oil in the air chamber and when it fired the piston would compress the air so hard it would combust. This would ignite the shot shell primer and send the .177 pellet through a 2x4... accuraccy was... um. Well it was powerful! Care to duplicate this? Cheap cheap fun
You should try long-distance shooting with those. Since the rounds are travelling so much faster than that of a normal .22 round, I'd assume their max-effective-range would be drastically increased as well.
+David Santana It would make sense that faster means less drop, but with the accuracy level I was getting at just 25 yards and the fact that the only targets this would be good for would be small game (small kill zone), the actual effective range of these loads would probably be around 25 yards. I do plan some different loads. I have all the supplies, I just need some time in my life to shoot the video. I am hoping I can stretch some of those out to 50 yards, but stay tuned. If you're subscribed, I'll post them eventually.
+RyeOnHam You could also try to use actual .22 bullets. Like the lead itself, and try to fire the round that way. However, I'd be afraid of the internal pressures built by the cartridges would surpass the steel strength of the barrel.
David Santana I already did that. in another video. You can watch it, or I can spoil it for you. Your choice. I will say that I did not blow up my bun.
+HOSSMCGILLICUTTI It doesn't work quite like that. It is always safer to have the bullet closer to the powder charge than farther away. Lead does not compress, but propellant gasses do. Putting the bullet farther down the barrel creates a pressure spike behind the bullet. You actually get MORE pressure and more concentrated pressure the farther down the barrel you put the bullet. You would then end up with a ring of lead in the middle of the barrel where another projectile might bulge the barrel. There are dozens of variables that I can alter, but ultimately the method I chose was the one with the least pressure. Counter-intuitive, yes, but still true. I have gotten some ludicrous suggestions, most of which involved hot glue, about how to 'improve' the situation, and I have rejected most out of concerns for safety. I do have a few ideas that I will be posting videos of. A few are in the work and if you're subscribed, they might be of interest to you.
HOSSMCGILLICUTTI The bullets were seated JUST engaged in the rifling. that is as close as i can reliably place them. Any closer to the blank and they would be loose in the chamber.
It is a Rossi .22/ 410 combo rifle. I do not think it has a model name. You can usually buy the combo for around $150 at places like Academy or Big 5. We have neither out here, but I got mine cheap as well. Thanks for watching!
You should try using the 22 caliber copper pellets I think they will hold up to the higher velocity better and you might get better accuracy and you might not have the skirt sharing problems that you were having with the lead pellets.
I do not intend to do testing with any other pellets. The current configuration is around $8 per 100 pellets which is is more expensive than scalper rates for .22 lr bulk pack. .22 bulk pack is an order of magnitude more accurate.
Its also insane to know the casings are being ejected from the pistol, if in some way there is some sort of glue with a slug pellet that can hold it all together(probably not going to work) it might be working semi auto
I have not tried glue, but there is absolutely zero chance of it working. The key is that you cannot control the glue to where it is consistent. It also covers the petals and keeps them from opening properly. I believe it is asking far too much of this kludgy setup for it to operate semi-automatically. Ejection, sure, but it'll have to be manually loaded.
In a revolver, should the pellet be seated ahead of the nose of the blank in the cylinder or ahead of the forcing cone and just into the rifling of the bore ? I'm inclined to seat it into the cylinder so the full pressure of the charge is behind the pellet before it jumps the cylinder gap, analogous to a cap and ball cylinder loading. Opinion ?
Oingo Boingo Watch my revolver video. You cannot seat the pellet or ANYTHING against the blank as it prevents the petals from opening up and creates overpressure situation.
RyeOnHam When I said "ahead of the nose of the blank" I should have been more precise in my wording by adding "by a few millimeters to permit the crimp on the blank to fully open". I still believe that the projectile (pellet or ball) should be in the cylinder SOMEWHAT ahead of the powder charge (blank or compressed charge). You're opinion is still requested re; cylinder load vs. barrel rifling load for the projectile. I watched your revolver video, the one showcasing the various unique models. It didn't seem to address the question that I raised.Also, do you have experience with the Thompson Center 5R rifling as it relates to bore leading ? TC guarantees 1 MOA in rifles with that. I emailed them about a bolt gun chambered in 5.56 to compete with the grossly overpriced Ruger and the QC challenged Mossberg. They said they'd think about it.
Rifling styles are more of marketing gimmicks than reality. Micro-Groove and polygonal are both prone to leading. Forcing cone tolerances are more of a lead gatherer than any other part of the barrel. Watch this video and see what you think: goo.gl/AZbYDr
I have a suggestion to make rounds from reloaded and reprimed rimfires, but instead of a normal bullet, fit a .22 pellet in there. That would save reloading time and jamming (if the gun is self repeating) problems.
There is no cheap or easy way to reprime a 22 lr cartridge. Also, the .22 pellet is full width at the base whereas the 22lr cartridge has a neck that is about .20 caliber. .22LR bullets are rebated at the base for this reason. If you are subscribed, I will be posting a follow-up video in the near future.
Just now seeing the videos Tal and here, different projectiles would be the natural next step. My 69 Winchester likes 40grn no matter what. Forget stingers. Maybe the rifling would need to match the loads. In a pinch you can even launch your cleaning rod.
Another interesting experiment would be to get a .22 air rifle barrel and use the Ramset blanks. Of course, it may be more complicated than that. It might take a custom made air rifle barrel with a faster rifling twist.
No way I'd trust an air rifle barrel to contain the powder loads. I do not suggest you try this. Well, don't try any of this. I'm a professional UA-camr.
@@RyeOnHam My thinking was along the lines of, one of those 12 ga shotgun to .22 LR adapters like you see on Ebay, with part of the adapter drilled out to insert a .22 air rifle barrel into. Dunno if they'd be joined via threading or JB Weld or Red Loctite or what. And IMO you are WAY too afraid to try new things LOL. When I was a teen, in metal shop I made a small cannon on a lathe. I used I think it was 1" or maybe 1 1/2" cold rolled steel, six inches long, drilled five inches deep 1/2" bore, and a 1/8" touch hole at the bottom of the bore. I was also reloading shotgun shells at the time because I shot Trap and Skeet. So I had smokeless powder around. I'd put a foot long piece of waterproof cannon fuse into the touch hole, fill the bore with Red-Dot, Green-Dot, 700X or some other shotgun powder to near the end of the bore, then pack in a tissue paper wad and pound in a small rock with a hammer. Then lay it down in the street, light the fuse and run WAY back. When that sucker went off it made a HELL of a boom and the cannon would go skidding backward twenty feet or more, lol. That thing never ruptured even though that was a goal at some point, lol. Shit, me, my brothers and other kids in the hood made cannons, home made firecrackers all kinds of stuff. We'd buy M80's like the real ones that were like 1/4 sticks of Dynamite and blow stuff up, annoy the neighbors etc. None of us ever lost any fingers, we were careful enough, because we were trained by our fathers who were more often than not, Vets of Korea or WW2 lol. Crazy days. But kids these days are too scared to do any of that stuff now it seems.
Hey buddy, thanks for your video ... very well done ..... to hear my English is not very good, but if I understand right accuracy is not good ?? is there a way to get better ... because here in my country blank cartridges are extremely cheap and I liked the shot. You think throwing dangerous (plinking) always with this cartridge?
I was able to shoot 8 inch groups at 25 yards. I think that you can shoot brown number 2 blanks and get better accuracy. I did not do enough testing to determine this. For plinking, that would probably be a good load.
I tried this years ago with 6mm starting pistol cartridges but the lead pellets came out shaped like balloons and deformed into all kinds of crazy shapes where the blast tried to inflate them before they started to move.
I later found out that a starter pistol cartridge has a realy fast burning charge because its job is just to make a loud bang. A nail gun cartridge burns slower to push the gasses out for longer which is what is needed to drive a nail in.
I do have a follow-up video in the works, but my philosophy is that the more you spend on the pellets, the less useful they are. At $6 a box of 100 blanks, you are already spending more than the cheap .22 ammo and that doesn't include the cost of the pellet. I would like this to be a practical exercise, so I have to skim available and affordable pellets or there is really no point. The Beeman's you mention are 2.5 times the cost of the ones I used and they weren't at the WalMart when I went shopping. Two strikes right there.
Yes, but then .22 caliber ammo isn't really all that hard to find. You can buy the expensive stuff still. Just go to Midway USA and they've usually got half a dozen varieties that are 100 times more accurate and practical.
RyeOnHam Well, I own no "powder" firearms. All I have are, is some high power Air guns that can kill with my choice of pellets. Although I have fired Q-Tips through the .177's to clear lead fouling after a couple thousand rounds.
I think I will stick to standard .22lr ammo, but good information to know. I have that rifle. I saw it cheap someplace and figured why no? not like I can have too many rifles, ha. Trigger was like sandpaper but after a few hundred rounds, it feels rather nice. I like that it can shot any load, even powderless. It is a great test bed rifle for new loads. sights are not bad either.
The .22 LR cartridge was originally developed for Black Powder and the pressure and volume were what was required for that. Given Black Powder needs more volume, it makes sense that you could add more powder when the gun is properly designed. In this case, the guns could take it, so it doesn't surprise me much.
The shells are identical to .22 LR shells. They are made on the same line. These are NOT black powder, which would be corrosive. They are made side-by-side with other rimfire cartridges. This is smokeless powder. I think there is a common misconception that blanks are corrosive. While that is true of some BLANKS, these are not stage or noise blanks, they are powder-actuated tool charges meant for tools that are generally used hundreds of times and never cleaned. There is no way these tools would operate more than one day with corrosive primers or powder. Now, if you have a theatrical (stage) blank or noise blank meant for dog training, starting pistols, etc. then all bets are off. They often use Black Powder due to the fact they do not have any back pressure. You can identify these because they will have a cardboard or wax seal and a blunt-nosed cartridge case.
There ARE level 1 .22s. They are gray. They're used largely for driving nails into wood, whereas the higher levels are for driving them into concrete, or even, metal.
Interesting video. Of course I had to try it myself, so I purchased the same Rossi 22/410 combo and Ramset #3 blanks. (Lowes didnt have any #2 or #4 at the time) The pellet's I used were Gamo Pellets, 22cal Mag, Spire Point, Dbl Ring, Per 250 and Gamo USA Rocket Pellets 22cal 14.3gr Hardened Steel Tip 100/tin. I just pushed the pellets into the back of the barrel, and then put in the blank behind it which may have caused some of my issues. Pretty much all of my shots had the skirt shearing off, and many of the blanks cracking or blowing out the bottoms due to high pressures. Maybe using the Allen Wrench gives the small amount of spacing needed to reduce pressures, instead of having direct contact between the pellet and blank. I did order some #2 Ramset blanks to try with the Gamo pellets, and also ordered some H&N Rabbit Magnum II 24.69 grains, Cylindrical, Solid, 200ct pellets to try with the #3 blanks. I think the solid pellets will fair a lot better. I did not Chrono anything at this time, but will try to do so later. Since the gun came with the 410 barrel, I also had to buy all the supplies needed to build my own slug loads. Thanks to your video, I am about $400 in the hole. I need to stay off youtube.
Dutch K9 I would like to take credit, but TAOFLEDERMAUS was the driving factor in me dropping money on my setup. Be sure to check out the dozen or so other pellet and nail-gun blank videos for some other money-wasting ideas!
Your tests are clear and concise and they answer my questions very well. Good Job with this video. A strong alternative in case the situation calls for it. Those are high velocities from blanks. At today's prices, the cost per ( blank + pellet ) = 0.19c to 0.20c - CANADIAN Currency. That is dirt cheap.
Yeah, it'll do in a pinch. I think a good, high-velocity PCP air rifle would suit everybody's needs better. I've got some heavier pellets to try, but with UA-cam's stance on gun videos, I don't know if I'll make videos about them. It's been several years and there's a box full of various test projectiles still sitting in the corner of the safe. Thank you for watching. I do have a playlist of these nail gun blanks if you're interested in more info: ua-cam.com/video/Hc5rpSk15XI/v-deo.html
This is just too cool!!! I have always wanted to try this and when I saw Taos video I just knew there was some potential to this. 2,800 fps with what maybe a 15 or 18 grain pellet? Should be handy on squirrel if the distance is reasonable.
Thanks for watching. 14.3 grain nominal bullet weight for these pellets. So, at 2,864 that means 260.5 Foot-Pounds of energy. I would say it's overkill for squirrel. I think the brown loads with head shots at short range would work, but I have not done extensive accuracy testing yet.
You could make a video with various types of pellets, some who have not quit, they are massive, they may have greater weight, that could be causing excess pressure in the chamber? for example, a pellet with 30 to 40 grains ??
I do not have access to heavier pellets. I would be surprised if anything interesting happened with heavier pellets different than would happen with just regular .22lr bullets. Heavier pellets would also be more dangerous. I do not wish to blow up my gun.
I really enjoyed this video. Lots of good info that I'll never use but still cool to see. Thank you for taking the time to make it. What suppressor is that? Minnesota just passed a bill allowing us to own them and I want a .22 suppressor along with a 30 caliber.
i superglued 22 pellets to the end and they fed in my ruger mklll target , i did this before i saw this video i was wandering if that would get consistent velocity?
No. Do not do that. First, do not do ANY of this. If you watch TAOFLEDERMAUS' video, they try this and it does not work for them. This is the video: ua-cam.com/video/aNAQ0-iDn3g/v-deo.html
+rjonzen34 I have another video where I use brown and green loads to try firing .22 lr bullets I pulled from live cartridges. Spoiler alert, the green #3 load blew out the case. The .22 lr is weak, but that is because the case is made from a think sheet of brass. The rim is the same thickness as the sides of the case and it can only hold a certain amount of pressure. .22 LR loads have to be relatively weak to keep the case heads from blowing out.
Not sure what you're asking. The nail-gun blanks fit just fine in all of my .22's. What brand of nail-gun blank are you using? There are many makers and I've only shown you what I had. They do make 27 caliber blanks as well, which would not fit.
I have not seen power level 5 (red) as single shots, only a premanufactured "revolver" carousel or a strip with however many rounds the nailer takes depending on the brand (6, 12, ...). Single rounds, 4 seems to be the highest.
The ones I have seen in stores at power level 5 and 6 are all .27 caliber, so would not work for my applications. I do have some .22 caliber Red #5 blanks that were intended for dog training decoy launching. I will be using them in an upcoming video, if you are subscribed.
Just subscribed, wouldn't want to miss that. I didn't mention, I live in Canada. Here the .22 caliber power level 5 shots are not available in singles (maybe because the single-shot nailers are not designed to handle that much power). That seems to be the case with all brands sold here (Ramset, Hilti, etc). Or maybe it's just some nuthead in the government that decided against level 5 being available to public, possibly because they'd use it in their .22 guns, so the steel carousel with 6, 8, or 12 rounds is ok, but not singles :). Anyway, looking forward to the next video.
cuestion what's the name of the hand pistol the you were using and also what kind of pellet pistol would you recommend with enough power to take down rabbits.?
The pistol is one I made with a Ruger MK II grip frame and a Ruger 22/45 Lite receiver. You cannot buy them. The pellets I would use for Rabbit would probably be the same ones you would use for such things out of an air rifle. I am really not an expert. My area of expertise is guns. I do have other nail-gun blank videos in the works and will use some heavier pellets in at least one of them. If you are subscribed, you will see them soon enough.
You should try heavier pellets like the 25.39 Grain JSB Match Diabolo Exact Jumbo Monster .22 Cal. When it comes to accuracy, heavier pellets tend to stably penetrate air/wind resistance better.
It would be nice. I have all the supplies, but UA-cam has demonetized my videos. I would spend the better part of 20 hours doing one video and end up with no revenue and perhaps a channel strike for making ammo. Sorry, probably not going to be able to make a video.
I'd classify this video more along the lines of science/DIY/Experimentation. But, yeah youtube sucks. Thumbs up for the reply. Watching this video has peeked my curiosity in getting a single shot .22
This has been answered dozens of time. It makes no sense to shoot more expensive pellets when you can buy 22 LR which is dozens of times better. I do have a follow-up video posting on Thursday the 18th with a 'different' type of projectile, so subscribe and stay tuned!
I took some of the level 4 and sanded down a bamboo chopstick. muzzle loaded the stick and fired the bamboo stick at pressure treated fence half in thick wood. Went 3" through. Was crazy as shit and repeated this process. Close range spear fishing for sure
Colin Anderson I did try lead round balls in another video, but steel BB's are .177" in diameter and are too small. Further, steel BB's would damage the steel bore of the rifle, especially at the velocity I would expect such a light projectile to reach. I do have a dozen nail-gun blank videos to watch, if you would like to check out the playlist on my channel.
I wonder if they could be loaded in a 22 revolver so you could fire as fast as the trigger is pulled, That might be far more dangerous since it does not take much for the pellet to explode
I tried them in my 9-shot revolver, but the pellet would not stay in the cylinder. It has to go into the rifling to be held and there is no rifling in the cylinder. People have suggested just squeezing the pellet at the base so it expands and then loading them in the cylinder, but I have not tried that yet. For the reason you point out, though, this is not so good an idea. Getting one stuck in the bore is a dangerous situation.
RyeOnHam hey, I saw that you commented about upgrading your Mbp late 2011 to ssd drive by Samsung, just wondering, how did that work out? would you recommend it? did it actually make a big difference as far as speed, on boot up and opening programs, and also did you notice ay less heat when using the laptop heavily? sorry for commenting about that on this video I know it has noting to do with this post, just thought you might give me a reply faster this way.
I don't recall the comment, but I run an SSD on one of my computers and it is MUCH faster than the same computer on platters. I was not satisfied with the storage, so I run a hard disk as a secondary for storage. It's on a desktop computer and I try to use it for video processing.
Use Lee Tumble Lube on those pellets and you'll have a LOT less leading. This is a great idea for survival prepping and I'm thinking they would be great in revolvers..
+Stefano Dogg Spoiler alert on the Revolvers, the pellets just drop straight through. I do have a few upcoming videos on nail-gun blanks that you might be interested in, though.
I'm not putting anything in front of them, behind them, or around them. A little too much and I'd blow my gun up. Remember, these loads are hotter than .22 LR. Yes, though, they slide right through. I've got another video showing this. I have six varieties of .22 revolver and they slid through all of them.
this is good info. with 22 ammo hard to get at regular price not gouger prices like most gun stores ive seen. Its something i would try at my own risk and being safe about it with an old single shot i have just to have a little fun. Thanks for the info gona watch your other vids for more
Cool thing you have a large selection of ammo with air ammo You can use alloy with yellow primer you might break 3000 fps ! That's a devastating round to whatever it hits !
I found no lead in the barrel after I shot a few rounds of jacketed 22 lr. Lube would do nothing to help as the pellet has no way to hold the lube (no grooves or lubricated patch).
I bet a slug-style pellet, coated with bullet lube, would prevent skirt-shearing issues. The back of the slug is concave, so there's still a little bit of a "skirt," but I can't imagine it would come off, especially lubed up.
Since the bore is rifled, I think a solid bullet is appropriate. Several are available, but the most common types you can buy at the store have a hollow base. Many have commented suggesting wax, hot glue, grease, wd-40, etc. Not going to try any of these as the more you do to the half-cent chunk of lead, the more value you remove from the utility of the situation.
The pellet is an inch past the breech engaging with the rifling. Are you saying an inch down the bore? beyond the 'leade' where the rifling starts? I would not advise this as you risk detonation or getting a pellet skirt stuck. While I do not doubt you can get excellent accuracy doing so, it would require something to precisely place the pellet in the same place every time.
These are not blank guns. They are real, .22 lr guns. The .22 blanks are just .22 lr cases with a crimp instead of a bullet. America does not have many blank guns available. I have used blank guns to scar away geese. If we need to defend ourselves, real guns are available with a background check. I love France, by the way. We visited in 2018. Tried to stay away from the tourist sites, but we did spend a day in Paris, but we enjoyed Beauvais Cathedral. We had the cathedral all to ourselves, except for a few cats.
Great job man! Nice editing. I would like to see heavier pellets tested for accuracy. I shoot PCP air rifles and have pellets from 16.0grains to 32.4grains. I think the heavier skirts will withstand the stretch of high pressure #4's to resolve the skirt splitting mid flight. I use different weighted pellets according to gun, range, and/or target. I bet that lil rossi could drive tacks at 25 yd range with some Beeman Kodiak Copper plated 21.12 grain pellets. $12 for 200...
Thanks for watching. I have thought through your recommendations and let me add a bit of prespective. When you consider the combined cost of the pellets and blanks that I used in making my video, we come up with roughly $40 for 500 shots. That is about as expensive as CCI Mini Mags (if you can find them) at WalMart. When you start paying 3 times more for the pellets, you are cutting into premium target .22 territory. The math just doesn't work out there. Even if the shortage continues, at that price you can go on Armslist and find a scalper to sell you cheaper ammo.
@Ben I've considered that also, but the current price for 30 grain .22 air rifle pellets is .15 each. Ramsets currently cost anywhere from .06 to .10 each. What would be cool IMO, would be to get an air rifle barrel, and adapt it to a single shot .22 LR firearm like OP has. That way you could use the cheap air rifle pellets and have better performance.
There was leading, but no more than a revolver shooting bare lead bullets gets. It did clean out well with a bronze brush, though. I did make a point of running a wet patch down the bores the night before I went out shooting. The Break-Free has PTFE in it and provides a bit of a barrier, even with all of the heat and friction. It cleans well because of it. Another thing you can do is fire plated bullets intermittently and at the end of the range session to cut down on leading. Neither of these guns had a bore that was worn or pitted. An older barrel might end up being more pitted if treated this way. I was careful and checked the bore often (after each shot towards the end) to ensure that nothing unsafe was happening.
Maybe, but understand the purpose behind this is not to build a better system, it is a substitute for .22 LR ammo. If you have to pay more per pellet than you do for premium, loaded .22 ammo, then what's the point? Add the cost of the blanks in, and you've crossed over into the absurd. I do have an upcoming series of videos exploring various .22 pellets and other projectiles. If you're subscribed, you'll see it sooner or later.
In Joule: The yellow at maximum 2.864fps (872,94m/s) has got 353.06 Joule of energy with 14.3gr (0,93g) pellets. That's impressive, given the average pellet gun shoots those at about 580fps (170m/s) and 10 Joule. The pellet travels about 5 times faster but has got 35 times the energy. Physics is awesome! :)
I have a video on that, but the spoiler alert answer is that the pellets dropped straight through the cylinder. Since only the barrel is rifled, there is nothing to hold a pellet in place.
I had posted over on Jeffs channel about using gamo raptor pellets since they are loghter and harder than lead. They advertise them to be 25 percent faster
Oooohhhh, I don't know if that translates to firearms very well. I do not have any Gamo Raptors nor do I plan on getting any. I do have a series of upcoming videos using different projectiles. If you are subscribed, they will be out eventually.
Good to go. Airgun barrels are usually softer steel than rifle barrels and since they are lighter pressures would be lower, but on the other hand of that is you may not get as much of the powder to burn and actually generate lower velocities. I have done it in the past with my old .22 marlin bolt and had them passing straight through full size phone books with ease but never had a chrono to run them over. May just have to pick one up and revisit it myself.
The quality of the steel and the weight of the barrel/rifle do not substantially effect velocity. Generally, powder burn is directly proportional to barrel LENGTH and projectile weight alone. Harder bullets will not give any more or less velocity. In fact, a harder bullet might produce less velocity because it has more friction going down the bore. A softer bullet will conform to the shape of the rifling more easily. What you are likely seeing probably has more to do with pressure dynamics unrelated to anything you are attributing it to. I've reloaded for years using different lead blends, gas checks, half-jackets, full jackets, plating, moly coating, bore lapping, bore treatment, etc. and can tell you that the vast majority of it is just snake oil. Don't look much beyond good ol' powder charge and bullet weight.
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Awesome video! Thanks for taking this to the next level! Subscribed!
I tried this out several years ago and was punching holes in 3/16 aluminum plate at 25 yards. Never clocked the velocity, but I knew it was fast. Thanks for posting some actual test data with a chronograph. Amazing velocity!
Ryan,
I wached both videos. Yours, and Taofladremaus'. Both times the skirt stuck in the bore, I think was because the crimped portion of the blank was inside the pellet skirt. When the round goes off, it expands faster than the pellet can leave. It looks like it traps the lead ring between the brass, and the bore.
Still a workable alternative in a SHTF situation.
Sorry for not responding earlier. You are definitely correct on the skirt popping off if the nose of the blank is too close or inside the skirt. I did have other instances where I knew the pellet was beyond the front of the blank and the skirt would sometimes separate and sometimes not. This inconsistency leads me to the conclusion that we are right around the physical limitations of the combination I was using. I do have some upcoming videos with different loads and nail gun blanks that might prove more enlightening.
Maybe try the red finned soft plastic guide they put on the nail between the round and the pellet
@@RyeOnHam maybe put a little wadding between them?
I tried the nail blank/.22 pellet thing years ago. Surprised at how loud it was, and the penetration. The pellet would penetrate the front of a 55-gallon drum, and deeply dent the back side. Never chronographed the pellets, but figured they were Mach 2 anyway. If the skirt shears off in the barrel, try another brand of pellet; not all of them do it.
As a lover of 22's, reloading and my chronograph, this is awesome, on so many levels.
+Mike P Thanks. I have several more videos exploring this concept on accuracy, different duplex ideas, ballistics gel, round balls, etc.
This might be an option when they confiscate your ammo -- just remember to store the actuators with your nail gun, not your firearm.
Thanks for the humorous chrono work on little 22 cal pellets. You had me going when you said Taofledermaus would pay for the silencer. LOL
It was the most expensive thing outside of the safe at the time.
To fast for suppersor
Wish I had seen your video before trying the double pellet launch a couple of years ago.Fired from a bolt-action with a level 4 the cartridge burst and I received several brass fragments in my forehead. Always wear your Z-87's friends.
I watched your video, and I just wanted to post the averages of your chronographs.
long rifle
1880.6 avarage fps power level 2
2323.8 avarage fps power level 3
2820.6 avarage fps power level 4
average of 470 fps difference between each level
pistol
1057.6 avarage fps power level 2
1514 avarage fps power level 3
1863.8 avarage fps power level 4
average of 403.1 fps difference between each level
I don't know much about guns, but that seems crazy fast. Anyway, loved your work, keep doing what you do.
Thanks. I was leaving that work to somebody else. Math is hard. Interesting the differences between the loads. I wonder how that translates to force on the nail guns? Don't have much experience using these like they are intended!
You think math is hard!?! I'm only 20, only a year out of high school, and that little piece was something I learned in 6th grade. I was in advanced mathematics by freshman year, and THAT was hard. For finding the average of anything, find the sum of the variables, then divide by the number of variables e.g. you did 5 (five) shots with each level, and you got a reading for each shot. You add the readings for each shot, then divide by 5 (five).
LOL, now find the median and the standard deviation! Of course, I was being sarcastic about math being hard.
Sorry. I'm a little slow, so I don't pick up on sarcasm easily.
Internet sarcasm is always hard to pick up on. I have the opposite problem. I don't take much of anything seriously. Thanks for watching!
I've used power loads as blanks in a conventional .22 caliber revolver for sound effects during police training exercises. .22 caliber blanks are too expensive and blank firing pistols and revolvers are JUNK and can't be depended on. Most blank guns are made of pot metal and wear out after a few hundred rounds. I used my Smith and Wesson K-22 revolver with various power level loads, depending on if the training was being done inside or outside. Power loads are very loud, inexpensive and cased no trouble. I used them only for sound effects and never pointed the gun anywhere except at the floor. I'm sure it is dangerous to point them at anyone, since some metal may come off the cartridge, not to mention the danger of accidentely chambering a live round
Just put in the pellet then seat it with the 22 blank...the tapered blank fits in the pellets skirt.
Simple and fast and consistant i have 2 500rd bricks of primed(only)22short cases..i push the pellets in flush nose first..shoot them across my living room..in revolvers..cost more then live ammo.
Truly a testament to the strength & durability of a cheapy .22! Who says they don't build'em good in Brazil?
No. Leading is overstated. The worst leading is usually in revolvers and pistols with polygonal rifling. The pellets were already engraved in the rifling and therefore the transition area that usually gets the most leading was already free. I did fire several copper jacketed bullets before and after the lead. What that does is it deposits a layer of copper and carbon against the bore and the lead that IS deposited goes on top of that. Soak it a day or so in any bore solvent (I use just plain Break Free) and there are no issues getting whatever might be there out. In my case, there were ZERO deposits.
I've done this for years and only ever had to clean lead out of used guns that were poorly maintained. H&R 32's and 38's have a forcing cone that just grabs lead and holds on tight.
I tried pulling lead bullets from my .22lr cartridges. The results were less than desirable. There are follow-up videos in the works, so stay tuned.
+RyeOnHam I've been wanting to try this out in a few of my .22's. I think the velocity increase is because of the pellets having a hollow base. With a hollow base, you get almost a perfect gas seal and that in turn gives you a more uniform burn of your powder instead of the gases blowing by the bullet as with gas cutting and causing leading. Plus the pellets are soft lead and soft lead matched with a hollow base goes together like peanut butter and jelly. This would be a great survival option especially with a single shot like the Rossi since you have to single load them anyway. Again, great video.
+D.J. Taylor Prettg sure the increase is from the 14gr versus 36gr projectiles.
William Sanders Yeah a lighter bullet is faster, but the hollow base of the pellet is a big factor here too. Just like a heavy crimped bullet will give you a more consistent powder burn and in turn a little more velocity. I've done a lot of testing with hollow base Ideal Keith bullets in .44 magnum/special loads and the classic 429421 keith flat-base. You get a good deal more speed and better standard deviation with hollow base loads because of the hollow base expanding and sealing the cylinder throat and then into the forcing cone and the bore. And of course hollow base bullets have to be cast softer so that they can obturate in the bore. The bullet weight being lighter is a big factor too. With a soft bullet half the weight with technically the same powder, combined with a hollow base, your going to have a significant velocity increase. In short, yes the bullet being lighter is a big factor, but it's not the only one. Just my experience. Thanks for the reply
Rye,
I would also be curious to see you test the amour 22 caliber pellets. These pellets are a 22 caliber pellet with a .177 caliber BB glued into the tip. Several companies make these pellets. My guess is that you would be able to penitrate a 1/4 inch steel plate, perhaps even body amor as these pellets weigh roughly 17-21 grains and should be traveling somewhere in the 2,500-2,600 fps range using the #4 blanks. Thanks again, I really enjoyed your videos.
James Wilburn Given my experience firing M855 at various things over the years, I highly doubt the armour 22 pellets would penetrate a 1/4" steel plate even at the velocities one would get with the nail-gun blanks. I will likely be doing more pellet videos in the future. Stay tuned.
Rye,
Thank you for the reply. I was only taking a guess at that one, lol. I have shot the penitrators out of my 22 caliber Walther Taylon Magnum pellet rifle at approximately 1,000 fps at an abandoned, burnt up 2009? Chyrsler mini van. I was able to penitrate the tail gate, the thin metal dash panel and it lodged into the firewall. That is my extended of testing those particular pellets. I usually shoot Crossman Premier 22 caliber hollow points (14.3 grain) or Predator Polymag (16 grain) at standard targets. I have done some serious bullet testing with my 300 Winchester Magnums, 180 grain @ 3,450 fps with 4,125 ft lbs muzzle energy from Hornady SST GMX ammo will blow holes straight through 1/2 inch steel like a drill press at 100 yards. Anyway I am now rambling on. I throughly enjoy your videos, please keep them coming. BTW Pyramid air is a great source for Pellets, great prices, hundreds of selections in 22 caliber, buy 3 get a 4th tin free. Thanks again, JAMES
I've checked into Pyramid Air on the premium pellets, and I have to say the same thing I've said dozens of times: Pellets are expensive! When you take .22 lr ammunition... LOADED ammunition into account, there is no pellet that should be worth more than a CCI Mini-Mag. Yet, MOST of the premium pellets are more expensive. Given that the nail-gun blanks are already more expensive than bulk 22 ammo, it's really hard to come up with an advantage for any pellet. Interesting? Maybe. Useful? Not really.
I absolutely agree, I just enjoy watching your test, lol. I have no plans of doing this myself as I also own six 22 rifles and currently have a stock pile of 10,000 rounds of Remington Golden Bullets as well as another 800 round brick of Winchesters. Again I just really enjoy your test videos. I usually only shoot my pellet guns on my property as there is a neighbor fairly close. I will shoot my 22 rifles on occasion but, I do not wish to alarm anyone in the neighborhood close to me as I can imagine the blanks and pellets crack off louder then a standard velocity 22 lr. Thank you again, I'll keep watching.
i would have liked to see some groups of the lvl 2 to see how they make out great vid nun the less always something i wondered about
The session was cut short. I had planned on grouping the Browns and Greens. I started with the Yellow (level 4) but the gun was shooting too high. I then took the 22 lr's out and sighted it in but ran out of time to print some groups with the other two loads. I think the Brown is actually the best candidate for accuracy, safety, and reduced leading in the bore. Subscribe; I will get a follow-up video done someday.
I already did;) thanks for the response
RyeOnHam try grouping the Rossi with regular 22 you may be disappointed
I did and I was not. No, it isn't a target rifle but I was getting decent groups. I posted a video on it too.
Great job ! - I wonder if you cut off the skirt with end cutters on all but the 1st pellet, and loaded 2 to 20 balls at once. Create a .22 Shotgun?
Two balls caused the case to blow out, so that's not a practical load. Too much pressure.
Is there any way you can use a very weak glue to glue the “bullet” to the powder charge?
Yes, you can glue it, however it leads to problems. The petals on the blank need room to open. The glue at the end can raise pressures dangerously.
Loved the experiments mate- Keep up the good work!!
By the way, Are the Crosman pellets pure lead as here in the UK I believe a lot of them have a large percentage of antimony which is a metal not unlike lead in weight and appearance but is much more brittle than lead and tends to shatter upon impact!!
I do not know if they are pure lead or not. They shattered pretty good in my ballistic gel test you can watch here: ua-cam.com/video/HYElPDLPosE/v-deo.html I had other pellets that acted softer, but I don't have any real way of testing lead for antimony or tin content.
Interesting results.
I think if you used TAC heavy (17gr) pellets they would work better because they have a smaller skirt and are made out of tin alloy. Those are about 2x the cost of regular pellets though.
Yeah, at that price point, you can pay the scalper rates for .22 instead.
Thanks for this informative test, just wondered how. 22 lead balls would perform.
I have a series of videos. I shoot balls, double-ball loads, and I think I did a pellet with a ball duplex loads. Can't remember. Been a few years. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for another comment, is there anyway you can peel back the petals of the casing, put a 22 pellet in, and then crimp/try to re-close The pedals?
I would think that would be virtually impossible as well as pretty dangerous.
Two issues: 1) Rifle: I think you MUST put the pellet in further so that the skirt is into the rifling; 2) Why not use heavier .22 pellets?
1) Not going to readdress where I put the pellet. Putting it farther down the barrel lowers pressure and velocity... why not just use the lighter blanks to achieve the same thing?
2) Because, as I've said earlier, heavier pellets are not readily available. If you can't find the pellets, you can't shoot them. Also, ALL of the pellets suggested so far are at least double the price, sometimes four or five times the price plus you have to pay shipping.
I had the same thing , skirts shearing off , lower power level charges solved that .
If leaded, the jacketed ammo "irons" out the lead, try putting some lube in the "grove" of the pellet, might give little more fps and avoid leading
Hallo, i would recommed to use "filled skirt" pellets when propelled by blanks; as it is used in the munisalva system, -blank + filled skirt pellet or bb- wich is legal in some countries where fireguns are unlawed.
Came over from the other guys video. You WON the challenge! Great video well done!
Thanks and thank you for watching. I have a half-dozen other videos on nail gun blanks with accuracy, ballistics gel, etc if you'd like to check them out!
RyeOnHam yep watched them. Exciting len fog action!
nice video.
if you are going to do this again you should try h&n rabbit magnum II pellets.
these are more solids so they don't have skirts and they are quite heavy (aprox. 25 grains).
I tried several other varieties, but the bottom line is that more expensive pellets reduce the effectiveness of these loads exponentially. I do have some videos ready to post (one going up this afternoon) that will give a better idea of what these loads are capable of.
My question is would this work in a .22lr Revolver kind of like the old cap and ball revolvers and would putting a wad in front or behind the projectile be safe ?
As for the skirts, the pressure is hitting too fast, skirt spreads like it is supposed to but it's so violent that it sticks to the sides while the rest of the pellet is fired. If you fill in the skirt with lead or file it down to no-skirt, it would probably work a lot better.
The skirts are setup for air which has a lot lower ramp up to full pressure so it needs the weak rimmed skirt to capture all the air but not push so hard against the bore that it is slowed down.
Nice work! And btw, the plural of TAOFLEDERMAUS would be TAOFLEDERMÄUSE :-D (Fledermaus is german for bat (the flying animal, not the baseball-hitter kind)).
I bought the Rossi .22/.410 single shot partly in response to this video, and partly because it was on sale at a great discount...have fired both barrels, but now going to try this experiment...got the #4's already...pellets next...looks like a bunch of fun!
Have fun and be safe. Duplex loads were not working and were blowing out cases so if you're trying it, ensure you have eye protection. When I ran 100 more pellets through the bore, I did end up with leading that required some attention about where the rifling started. Brass bore brush on a drill and 30 seconds or so got all the lead (doesn't hurt the bore). Other than that, I'll have accuracy tests up soon that were quite surprising.
RyeOnHam Thanks...I don't plan to do Duplex loads, and I have an option...Copper .22 cal Pellets...spendy, but the copper won't foul the barrel, and are harder than the lead. This looks like it will be a fun experience, and I'll come back and let you know how the copper pellets work. I also got pointed .22 cal lead pellets, (as opposed to rounded heads), all they had, but supposedly fly straighter, (?)...we shall see!
I think the copper pellets will hold together better, but, ugh, the price. I looked up a pellet somebody suggested earlier and it was $10 for 110 of them. Add $6 for 100 blanks and you're getting near 9mm range there. I'm interested how your experiment will go.
RyeOnHam
Another thing about the Copper Pellets...they are only 14.4 grains...very light, yet the Copper is stronger than the Lead...it will be interesting....I am looking for the "other" Pellets, the higher weight just might compensate for the lower velocity in the accuracy department...this is looking like a fun experiment.....
Again a word of caution, though. Heavier pellets will give you exponentially higher pressures.
Nice video. I'm thinking about trying it through my chrono with the PBA pellets.
Thanks for watching. Let me know how that turns out.
I will and I'll try to remember to get video of it. I've got a machining business and do a little video here and there if you're interested in that kind of stuff.
A idea for a next stage of testing this could be to use copper .22 air rifle pellets. Copper has a much higher yield strength than lead so the skirts might stay attached with the high velocity charges.
I will be doing follow-up videos, but unless something changes, there will be nothing expensive involved. Just diminishing returns on a concept of dubious value anyway.
@14:15 is someone really firing when you're checking your target or are they firing a different direction?!? That part was scary! Great video btw!
+Demon50 There are 6 different ranges in this complex and the ranges on either side of the one I was on were hot at the time. There are berms inbetween the ranges so there is no danger to me.
+Pantharen Your math only applies in Loonies. We can't hardly get .22 at all in the states and when we can, you sure as hell ain't gonna find 1400 rounds of Winchester Golden Bullet for $70... partly because Remington makes the Golden Bullet stuff. And a .17 caliber at 1200 fps is good, but it's a few orders of magnitude less energy than a .22 caliber at 2800 fps. Send some of your Canuck ammo down here and I'll send you some half-price nail-gun blanks!
Just bought 2 buckets for $79.99 each. They sold out in 2 hours, it was a non advertised sale. So gold mine! I think normally it goes for $109? IDK, never seen 1400 round buckets for sale before.
Looks like a break open action .22 is the ideal platform for this. Great job by the way, you can certainly tell that the longer barrel lets all the powder burn up and increases the velocity by a wide margin. I saw TAOFLEDERMAUS' video and the pellets look like great varmint killers. Have you done accuracy testing? a 6 inch group at 50 feet is terrible, but a well sighted in rifle testing various pellet designs might just be the ticket.
Great Job.
I have not (yet) done accuracy testing beyond the one group you see in the video. My video session was interrupted. I may do accuracy testing in the future. If you're subscribed, it should come up in your feed. Thanks for watching!
@thewonderfrog The accuracy problem is likely due to the fact a .22 pellet is actually .218 as is the air rifle barrel. Whereas a .22 LR is .223 as is the barrel. A more interesting test would be to take an air rifle barrel, and retro fit it to a .22 LR action, then ream out the end of the air rifle barrel enough to get the 22 Ramset blank into it. Even better if you had deeper pockets, have a custom made air rifle barrel with faster twist rifling.
Ejecting on power level 3 and not on power level two shows that the chamber pressure is probably close to .22 lr. And power level four is likely close to .22mag.
I have a bunch of .22 liner and a lathe i think ill make a muzzle loader type setup for loads like this. if the chamber is cut just long enough for the blanks you get no air space between load and blank making it safer in regards to chamber pressures. may help with the pellet separating problem too.
Perhaps a felt wad? Just trying to translate muzzleloader techniques. I don't know if I would go so far as to modify a barrel for it. TFM said he had attempted to glue the pellet to the blank. I think that you might get poor results. The best I can figure, the reason I had case head separation was that the petals on the blank were stuck in the base of the bullet and did not have a chance to open. This created an artificial high-pressure zone in the cartridge. I think it's important that the pellet is engaged in the rifling and that it is forward enough to allow the blank to open up completely.
RyeOnHam
I request to make some lubrication oil like engine oil in side the mozzle
,and make less trace between bellets and blank cartidge or make a little
sticking plaster between them
ok
,I want to ask what kind of rifle are you use?
thank
+Haider Alghrabli I do not follow what you are saying you want me to do, but it sounds like it would increase pressures to unsafe levels. If you are subscribed, I will have some other ideas I will be trying within the next year, hopefully.
You should try some heavier loads. They make pellets in .22 caliber that weigh over 25 grains.
Thanks ,but what about the idea with plaster to paste the bellets with cartidge when the weapon goes vertically
and getting best start up speed
just few of plaster
, and you forgot to answer me of what is the name of rifle ?
do you know turkish guns for sounds ? , I think your rifle is petter the problem with cartidge foil
+Haider Alghrabli I assume you are not a native English speaker and I am having difficulty with the words you are using understanding what you mean. The pellets cannot be glued to the blanks because the blanks need to open up when fired. Anything that interferes with that opening such as glue, tape, or the pellet itself, will cause variations in velocity and pressure that we don't want. The intent is to have repeatable location of the pellet in the barrel, velocity, and pressure.
There is no name for the gun. It is a Rossi Matched Pair: www.rossiusa.com/product-details.cfm?id=113
I own one Turkish-made gun. It is a 12 gauge break-action similar to this .22 Rossi, except that it folds so the barrel is under the stock. I will make a video about it someday. I hope to purchase an MKE made MP5 in the near future.
I did this when I was 13 years old with a Remington 511 Targetmaster back in 1967. It was my dads gun. He wasn't home !! I could tell, it was much faster than my Sheridan.
+Greg Lindsey LOL, always when Dad is not home. I had some interesting and mildly dangerous adventures of my own while dad worked 14 hours a day. It's a wonder I have all my fingers and both eyes.
That break-action rifle is perfect for this.... Wonder if a revolver would work well, also...
I'm not sure. It all depends on if the throat has enough tension to hold the bullet. Similar in concept to a black-powder revolver, I guess.
You gotta use alloy pellets, there stronger and the skirt won't break off. they also don't disintegrate on impact. I've penetrated a 3/8 thick aluminium plate with the yellow Ramset and gamo rocket
You're throwing around terms a bit loosely here. "Alloy" does not describe a manufacturer and brand. "Aluminum" is what we call it here in the states and it comes in alloys too numerous to name. I presume you are talking about tin or copper pellets. The problem I have with those projectiles is that they cost more than loaded .22 LR boutique ammunition... the fancy expensive stuff. Why not just buy .22 LR ammunition at that point? Even during the height of the ammo shortage, you could always pay 25 cents a round for the expensive .22 LR, so it's not an availability issue.
That said, I do have some upcoming videos (so long as UA-cam starts paying me again) featuring various .22 loads you have not seen yet. You're welcome to send me some expensive 'alloy' pellets and I'll shoot them, I just don't see shelling out my own hard-earned money since the UA-cam ad revenue crash.
Rye on Ham... a few years back I had a junk Beeman pellet rifle. Drilled out the back 1/4 inch of rifling to insert a shot gun shell primer. I would fire a .177 cal pellet through a 2x4.. The method to detonate the primer was through entirely just dieseling.. you would insert a few drop of motor oil in the air chamber and when it fired the piston would compress the air so hard it would combust. This would ignite the shot shell primer and send the .177 pellet through a 2x4... accuraccy was... um. Well it was powerful! Care to duplicate this? Cheap cheap fun
I have had dozens of suggestions. I just can't do them all.
Understandable. No reason I can't do it again but just make a nice you tube video this time.
You should try long-distance shooting with those. Since the rounds are travelling so much faster than that of a normal .22 round, I'd assume their max-effective-range would be drastically increased as well.
+David Santana It would make sense that faster means less drop, but with the accuracy level I was getting at just 25 yards and the fact that the only targets this would be good for would be small game (small kill zone), the actual effective range of these loads would probably be around 25 yards. I do plan some different loads. I have all the supplies, I just need some time in my life to shoot the video. I am hoping I can stretch some of those out to 50 yards, but stay tuned. If you're subscribed, I'll post them eventually.
+RyeOnHam You could also try to use actual .22 bullets. Like the lead itself, and try to fire the round that way. However, I'd be afraid of the internal pressures built by the cartridges would surpass the steel strength of the barrel.
David Santana I already did that. in another video. You can watch it, or I can spoil it for you. Your choice. I will say that I did not blow up my bun.
Why couldn't you just push the pellet forward into the rifling with the powder loads, so you know there's no separation? Just curious. Thanks
+HOSSMCGILLICUTTI It doesn't work quite like that. It is always safer to have the bullet closer to the powder charge than farther away. Lead does not compress, but propellant gasses do. Putting the bullet farther down the barrel creates a pressure spike behind the bullet. You actually get MORE pressure and more concentrated pressure the farther down the barrel you put the bullet. You would then end up with a ring of lead in the middle of the barrel where another projectile might bulge the barrel.
There are dozens of variables that I can alter, but ultimately the method I chose was the one with the least pressure. Counter-intuitive, yes, but still true. I have gotten some ludicrous suggestions, most of which involved hot glue, about how to 'improve' the situation, and I have rejected most out of concerns for safety. I do have a few ideas that I will be posting videos of. A few are in the work and if you're subscribed, they might be of interest to you.
That's exactly what i was saying, i thought anyway. That there's to much gap between opposing forces, right?
HOSSMCGILLICUTTI The bullets were seated JUST engaged in the rifling. that is as close as i can reliably place them. Any closer to the blank and they would be loose in the chamber.
Excellent responses and results.
Forgive my lack of hearing, what is the rifle make and model?
It is a Rossi .22/ 410 combo rifle. I do not think it has a model name. You can usually buy the combo for around $150 at places like Academy or Big 5. We have neither out here, but I got mine cheap as well. Thanks for watching!
what about epoxy or liquid rubber fill for pellet squirt? Perhaps Jb weld. lol. so many choices
You should try using the 22 caliber copper pellets I think they will hold up to the higher velocity better and you might get better accuracy and you might not have the skirt sharing problems that you were having with the lead pellets.
I do not intend to do testing with any other pellets. The current configuration is around $8 per 100 pellets which is is more expensive than scalper rates for .22 lr bulk pack. .22 bulk pack is an order of magnitude more accurate.
Instead of spending $6 on a container of shooting ear plugs he spends $600 on a suppressor. That actually sounds like something I might do. LOL!!
Yep. Still waiting for Jeff from Taofladermaodubhaes to reimburse me.
Its also insane to know the casings are being ejected from the pistol, if in some way there is some sort of glue with a slug pellet that can hold it all together(probably not going to work) it might be working semi auto
I have not tried glue, but there is absolutely zero chance of it working. The key is that you cannot control the glue to where it is consistent. It also covers the petals and keeps them from opening properly. I believe it is asking far too much of this kludgy setup for it to operate semi-automatically. Ejection, sure, but it'll have to be manually loaded.
In a revolver, should the pellet be seated ahead of the nose of the blank in the cylinder or ahead of the forcing cone and just into the rifling of the bore ?
I'm inclined to seat it into the cylinder so the full pressure of the charge is behind the pellet before it jumps the cylinder gap, analogous to a cap and ball cylinder loading.
Opinion ?
Oingo Boingo Watch my revolver video. You cannot seat the pellet or ANYTHING against the blank as it prevents the petals from opening up and creates overpressure situation.
RyeOnHam When I said "ahead of the nose of the blank" I should have been more precise in my wording by adding "by a few millimeters to permit the crimp on the blank to fully open". I still believe that the projectile (pellet or ball) should be in the cylinder SOMEWHAT ahead of the powder charge (blank or compressed charge). You're opinion is still requested re; cylinder load vs. barrel rifling load for the projectile. I watched your revolver video, the one showcasing the various unique models. It didn't seem to address the question that I raised.Also, do you have experience with the Thompson Center 5R rifling as it relates to bore leading ? TC guarantees 1 MOA in rifles with that. I emailed them about a bolt gun chambered in 5.56 to compete with the grossly overpriced Ruger and the QC challenged Mossberg. They said they'd think about it.
Rifling styles are more of marketing gimmicks than reality. Micro-Groove and polygonal are both prone to leading. Forcing cone tolerances are more of a lead gatherer than any other part of the barrel. Watch this video and see what you think: goo.gl/AZbYDr
I have a suggestion to make rounds from reloaded and reprimed rimfires, but instead of a normal bullet, fit a .22 pellet in there. That would save reloading time and jamming (if the gun is self repeating) problems.
There is no cheap or easy way to reprime a 22 lr cartridge. Also, the .22 pellet is full width at the base whereas the 22lr cartridge has a neck that is about .20 caliber. .22LR bullets are rebated at the base for this reason. If you are subscribed, I will be posting a follow-up video in the near future.
Just now seeing the videos Tal and here, different projectiles would be the natural next step. My 69 Winchester likes 40grn no matter what. Forget stingers. Maybe the rifling would need to match the loads. In a pinch you can even launch your cleaning rod.
I was especially glad that you shot a measured group. How did that compare with a .22 lr group at the same range, with the same rifle?
I think that I showed it in the video, however regular rimfire ammunition was far superior in accuracy. Yes, out of the same gun.
@@RyeOnHam
Thx for the reply, and for the vid. Looks like a viable SHTF small game solution, or just plinking + target shooting.
Another interesting experiment would be to get a .22 air rifle barrel and use the Ramset blanks. Of course, it may be more complicated than that. It might take a custom made air rifle barrel with a faster rifling twist.
No way I'd trust an air rifle barrel to contain the powder loads. I do not suggest you try this. Well, don't try any of this. I'm a professional UA-camr.
@@RyeOnHam My thinking was along the lines of, one of those 12 ga shotgun to .22 LR adapters like you see on Ebay, with part of the adapter drilled out to insert a .22 air rifle barrel into. Dunno if they'd be joined via threading or JB Weld or Red Loctite or what.
And IMO you are WAY too afraid to try new things LOL. When I was a teen, in metal shop I made a small cannon on a lathe. I used I think it was 1" or maybe 1 1/2" cold rolled steel, six inches long, drilled five inches deep 1/2" bore, and a 1/8" touch hole at the bottom of the bore. I was also reloading shotgun shells at the time because I shot Trap and Skeet. So I had smokeless powder around. I'd put a foot long piece of waterproof cannon fuse into the touch hole, fill the bore with Red-Dot, Green-Dot, 700X or some other shotgun powder to near the end of the bore, then pack in a tissue paper wad and pound in a small rock with a hammer. Then lay it down in the street, light the fuse and run WAY back. When that sucker went off it made a HELL of a boom and the cannon would go skidding backward twenty feet or more, lol. That thing never ruptured even though that was a goal at some point, lol. Shit, me, my brothers and other kids in the hood made cannons, home made firecrackers all kinds of stuff. We'd buy M80's like the real ones that were like 1/4 sticks of Dynamite and blow stuff up, annoy the neighbors etc. None of us ever lost any fingers, we were careful enough, because we were trained by our fathers who were more often than not, Vets of Korea or WW2 lol. Crazy days. But kids these days are too scared to do any of that stuff now it seems.
Hey buddy, thanks for your video ... very well done ..... to hear my English is not very good, but if I understand right accuracy is not good ?? is there a way to get better ... because here in my country blank cartridges are extremely cheap and I liked the shot.
You think throwing dangerous (plinking) always with this cartridge?
I was able to shoot 8 inch groups at 25 yards. I think that you can shoot brown number 2 blanks and get better accuracy. I did not do enough testing to determine this. For plinking, that would probably be a good load.
I tried this years ago with 6mm starting pistol cartridges but the lead pellets came out shaped like balloons and deformed into all kinds of crazy shapes where the blast tried to inflate them before they started to move.
+thra5herxb12s That does not sound safe at all.
I later found out that a starter pistol cartridge has a realy fast burning charge because its job is just to make a loud bang. A nail gun cartridge burns slower to push the gasses out for longer which is what is needed to drive a nail in.
You should try some Beeman Crow Magnum hunting pellets, they are more solid with a minimal skirt.
I do have a follow-up video in the works, but my philosophy is that the more you spend on the pellets, the less useful they are. At $6 a box of 100 blanks, you are already spending more than the cheap .22 ammo and that doesn't include the cost of the pellet. I would like this to be a practical exercise, so I have to skim available and affordable pellets or there is really no point. The Beeman's you mention are 2.5 times the cost of the ones I used and they weren't at the WalMart when I went shopping. Two strikes right there.
RyeOnHam okay thanks, I thought you were doing the video as a means of "making do" when .22 caliber ammo was so hard to find.
Yes, but then .22 caliber ammo isn't really all that hard to find. You can buy the expensive stuff still. Just go to Midway USA and they've usually got half a dozen varieties that are 100 times more accurate and practical.
RyeOnHam Well, I own no "powder" firearms. All I have are, is some high power Air guns that can kill with my choice of pellets. Although I have fired Q-Tips through the .177's to clear lead fouling after a couple thousand rounds.
I think I will stick to standard .22lr ammo, but good information to know.
I have that rifle. I saw it cheap someplace and figured why no? not like I can have too many rifles, ha. Trigger was like sandpaper but after a few hundred rounds, it feels rather nice. I like that it can shot any load, even powderless. It is a great test bed rifle for new loads. sights are not bad either.
It's unreal how these are comparable to magnum power! I wonder how run of the mill rounds can be less powerful than this cobbled together method?
The .22 LR cartridge was originally developed for Black Powder and the pressure and volume were what was required for that. Given Black Powder needs more volume, it makes sense that you could add more powder when the gun is properly designed. In this case, the guns could take it, so it doesn't surprise me much.
Never shot a blank nail driver load in a gun. Wonder if the powder is corrosive or not? Is the rim the same configuration as real 22 shells? Thanks
The shells are identical to .22 LR shells. They are made on the same line. These are NOT black powder, which would be corrosive. They are made side-by-side with other rimfire cartridges. This is smokeless powder. I think there is a common misconception that blanks are corrosive. While that is true of some BLANKS, these are not stage or noise blanks, they are powder-actuated tool charges meant for tools that are generally used hundreds of times and never cleaned. There is no way these tools would operate more than one day with corrosive primers or powder.
Now, if you have a theatrical (stage) blank or noise blank meant for dog training, starting pistols, etc. then all bets are off. They often use Black Powder due to the fact they do not have any back pressure. You can identify these because they will have a cardboard or wax seal and a blunt-nosed cartridge case.
interesting, thanks
There ARE level 1 .22s. They are gray. They're used largely for driving nails into wood, whereas the higher levels are for driving them into concrete, or even, metal.
+Clyde Wary I was able to find some since I made this video. Life has to slow down a bit, but eventually I will get a follow-up video posted.
Interesting video. Of course I had to try it myself, so I purchased the same Rossi 22/410 combo and Ramset #3 blanks. (Lowes didnt have any #2 or #4 at the time) The pellet's I used were Gamo Pellets, 22cal Mag, Spire Point, Dbl Ring, Per 250 and Gamo USA Rocket Pellets 22cal 14.3gr Hardened Steel Tip 100/tin. I just pushed the pellets into the back of the barrel, and then put in the blank behind it which may have caused some of my issues. Pretty much all of my shots had the skirt shearing off, and many of the blanks cracking or blowing out the bottoms due to high pressures. Maybe using the Allen Wrench gives the small amount of spacing needed to reduce pressures, instead of having direct contact between the pellet and blank. I did order some #2 Ramset blanks to try with the Gamo pellets, and also ordered some H&N Rabbit Magnum II 24.69 grains, Cylindrical, Solid, 200ct pellets to try with the #3 blanks. I think the solid pellets will fair a lot better. I did not Chrono anything at this time, but will try to do so later.
Since the gun came with the 410 barrel, I also had to buy all the supplies needed to build my own slug loads. Thanks to your video, I am about $400 in the hole. I need to stay off youtube.
Dutch K9 I would like to take credit, but TAOFLEDERMAUS was the driving factor in me dropping money on my setup. Be sure to check out the dozen or so other pellet and nail-gun blank videos for some other money-wasting ideas!
Your tests are clear and concise and they answer my questions very well. Good Job with this video. A strong alternative in case the situation calls for it. Those are high velocities from blanks. At today's prices, the cost per ( blank + pellet ) = 0.19c to 0.20c - CANADIAN Currency. That is dirt cheap.
Yeah, it'll do in a pinch. I think a good, high-velocity PCP air rifle would suit everybody's needs better. I've got some heavier pellets to try, but with UA-cam's stance on gun videos, I don't know if I'll make videos about them. It's been several years and there's a box full of various test projectiles still sitting in the corner of the safe. Thank you for watching. I do have a playlist of these nail gun blanks if you're interested in more info: ua-cam.com/video/Hc5rpSk15XI/v-deo.html
This is just too cool!!! I have always wanted to try this and when I saw Taos video I just knew there was some potential to this. 2,800 fps with what maybe a 15 or 18 grain pellet? Should be handy on squirrel if the distance is reasonable.
Thanks for watching. 14.3 grain nominal bullet weight for these pellets. So, at 2,864 that means 260.5 Foot-Pounds of energy. I would say it's overkill for squirrel. I think the brown loads with head shots at short range would work, but I have not done extensive accuracy testing yet.
You could make a video with various types of pellets, some who have not quit, they are massive, they may have greater weight, that could be causing excess pressure in the chamber? for example, a pellet with 30 to 40 grains ??
I do not have access to heavier pellets. I would be surprised if anything interesting happened with heavier pellets different than would happen with just regular .22lr bullets. Heavier pellets would also be more dangerous. I do not wish to blow up my gun.
RyeOnHam Thanks for replying dear friend ..
I really enjoyed this video. Lots of good info that I'll never use but still cool to see. Thank you for taking the time to make it. What suppressor is that? Minnesota just passed a bill allowing us to own them and I want a .22 suppressor along with a 30 caliber.
mrdole2008 That's a Silencerco Spectre II.
i superglued 22 pellets to the end and they fed in my ruger mklll target , i did this before i saw this video i was wandering if that would get consistent velocity?
No. Do not do that. First, do not do ANY of this. If you watch TAOFLEDERMAUS' video, they try this and it does not work for them. This is the video: ua-cam.com/video/aNAQ0-iDn3g/v-deo.html
Brown- 1880.6FPS avg.Green- 2323.8FPS avg.Yellow-2820.6FPS avg.Very impressive, makes you think why is the 22lr so dam weak!
+rjonzen34 I have another video where I use brown and green loads to try firing .22 lr bullets I pulled from live cartridges. Spoiler alert, the green #3 load blew out the case. The .22 lr is weak, but that is because the case is made from a think sheet of brass. The rim is the same thickness as the sides of the case and it can only hold a certain amount of pressure. .22 LR loads have to be relatively weak to keep the case heads from blowing out.
rjonzen34 interesting point
Why does my .22 brake barrel not fit these .22 nail gun cartridges? Did you have to modify your gun to seat them properly ?
Not sure what you're asking. The nail-gun blanks fit just fine in all of my .22's. What brand of nail-gun blank are you using? There are many makers and I've only shown you what I had. They do make 27 caliber blanks as well, which would not fit.
Do you think there's a way to keep the pellet almost loaded with the load like with masking tape or something
No. People have suggested many things, but none of them work well and none of them are safe.
I have not seen power level 5 (red) as single shots, only a premanufactured "revolver" carousel or a strip with however many rounds the nailer takes depending on the brand (6, 12, ...). Single rounds, 4 seems to be the highest.
The ones I have seen in stores at power level 5 and 6 are all .27 caliber, so would not work for my applications. I do have some .22 caliber Red #5 blanks that were intended for dog training decoy launching. I will be using them in an upcoming video, if you are subscribed.
Just subscribed, wouldn't want to miss that. I didn't mention, I live in Canada. Here the .22 caliber power level 5 shots are not available in singles (maybe because the single-shot nailers are not designed to handle that much power). That seems to be the case with all brands sold here (Ramset, Hilti, etc). Or maybe it's just some nuthead in the government that decided against level 5 being available to public, possibly because they'd use it in their .22 guns, so the steel carousel with 6, 8, or 12 rounds is ok, but not singles :). Anyway, looking forward to the next video.
cuestion what's the name of the hand pistol the you were using and also what kind of pellet pistol would you recommend with enough power to take down rabbits.?
The pistol is one I made with a Ruger MK II grip frame and a Ruger 22/45 Lite receiver. You cannot buy them. The pellets I would use for Rabbit would probably be the same ones you would use for such things out of an air rifle. I am really not an expert. My area of expertise is guns. I do have other nail-gun blank videos in the works and will use some heavier pellets in at least one of them. If you are subscribed, you will see them soon enough.
Mark 2
You should try heavier pellets like the 25.39 Grain JSB Match Diabolo Exact Jumbo Monster .22 Cal. When it comes to accuracy, heavier pellets tend to stably penetrate air/wind resistance better.
It would be nice. I have all the supplies, but UA-cam has demonetized my videos. I would spend the better part of 20 hours doing one video and end up with no revenue and perhaps a channel strike for making ammo. Sorry, probably not going to be able to make a video.
I'd classify this video more along the lines of science/DIY/Experimentation. But, yeah youtube sucks. Thumbs up for the reply. Watching this video has peeked my curiosity in getting a single shot .22
Hey man if ya get some extra time you should try those pellets made for speed. I've seen them on pyramid air air gun shops website
This has been answered dozens of time. It makes no sense to shoot more expensive pellets when you can buy 22 LR which is dozens of times better. I do have a follow-up video posting on Thursday the 18th with a 'different' type of projectile, so subscribe and stay tuned!
For a different projectile the roundball might be cheaper
I agree, that if I could cast them (number "F" shot, btw) they would be cheaper. Watch my new video on Thursday, the 18th.
I took some of the level 4 and sanded down a bamboo chopstick. muzzle loaded the stick and fired the bamboo stick at pressure treated fence half in thick wood. Went 3" through. Was crazy as shit and repeated this process. Close range spear fishing for sure
Cool video! Could you do it again but use steel B.Bs instead?
Colin Anderson I did try lead round balls in another video, but steel BB's are .177" in diameter and are too small. Further, steel BB's would damage the steel bore of the rifle, especially at the velocity I would expect such a light projectile to reach. I do have a dozen nail-gun blank videos to watch, if you would like to check out the playlist on my channel.
RyeOnHam I understand. Thanks for your reply :) I'll be sure to check out your other videos. Cool channel by the way.
Thanks for giving it a shot...interesting and fun seeing.
Stay tuned. Follow-up video(s) in the works. Thanks for watching!
I wonder if they could be loaded in a 22 revolver so you could fire as fast as the trigger is pulled, That might be far more dangerous since it does not take much for the pellet to explode
Purple is a color code
I tried them in my 9-shot revolver, but the pellet would not stay in the cylinder. It has to go into the rifling to be held and there is no rifling in the cylinder. People have suggested just squeezing the pellet at the base so it expands and then loading them in the cylinder, but I have not tried that yet. For the reason you point out, though, this is not so good an idea. Getting one stuck in the bore is a dangerous situation.
Try H & H .22 air gun slugs. They have no skirt.
RyeOnHam
hey, I saw that you commented about upgrading your Mbp late 2011 to ssd drive by Samsung, just wondering, how did that work out? would you recommend it? did it actually make a big difference as far as speed, on boot up and opening programs, and also did you notice ay less heat when using the laptop heavily? sorry for commenting about that on this video I know it has noting to do with this post, just thought you might give me a reply faster this way.
I don't recall the comment, but I run an SSD on one of my computers and it is MUCH faster than the same computer on platters. I was not satisfied with the storage, so I run a hard disk as a secondary for storage. It's on a desktop computer and I try to use it for video processing.
RyeOnHam thanks for the quick reply, i upgraded to the sad drive today on my macbook pro late 2011, also upped the ram, runs way faster
Use Lee Tumble Lube on those pellets and you'll have a LOT less leading. This is a great idea for survival prepping and I'm thinking they would be great in revolvers..
+Stefano Dogg Spoiler alert on the Revolvers, the pellets just drop straight through. I do have a few upcoming videos on nail-gun blanks that you might be interested in, though.
I'm not putting anything in front of them, behind them, or around them. A little too much and I'd blow my gun up. Remember, these loads are hotter than .22 LR. Yes, though, they slide right through. I've got another video showing this. I have six varieties of .22 revolver and they slid through all of them.
Depends on chamber pressure. I'm not very scared by 22 LR cartridges, and every imported Indian black powder weapon should be so~tested
this is good info. with 22 ammo hard to get at regular price not gouger prices like most gun stores ive seen. Its something i would try at my own risk and being safe about it with an old single shot i have just to have a little fun. Thanks for the info gona watch your other vids for more
Cool thing you have a large selection of ammo with air ammo
You can use alloy with yellow primer you might break 3000 fps !
That's a devastating round to whatever it hits !
I bet these lead up the barrel real nice. Essentially you are muzzleloading and you gotta lube the pellets.
I found no lead in the barrel after I shot a few rounds of jacketed 22 lr. Lube would do nothing to help as the pellet has no way to hold the lube (no grooves or lubricated patch).
Tal used the pellets with the red backing.
Yes, after this video he did. I've also got those pellets, but I get no money from doing these videos thanks to UA-cam so the incentive isn't there.
what would happen if you pulled a 22LR projectile out and put it in front of the blank charge?! :D
I bet a slug-style pellet, coated with bullet lube, would prevent skirt-shearing issues. The back of the slug is concave, so there's still a little bit of a "skirt," but I can't imagine it would come off, especially lubed up.
Since the bore is rifled, I think a solid bullet is appropriate. Several are available, but the most common types you can buy at the store have a hollow base. Many have commented suggesting wax, hot glue, grease, wd-40, etc. Not going to try any of these as the more you do to the half-cent chunk of lead, the more value you remove from the utility of the situation.
I wonder if a jumbo pellet would be more accurate. There are 26 grains pellets around.
***** Possible, but I do not plan on trying them. Hard to justify spending twice on pellets what you would on .22 lr loaded ammo.
If you push the bullet an inch past the chamber open to the rifling you will get outstanding accuracy and won't rip the pellets up in the bore.
The pellet is an inch past the breech engaging with the rifling. Are you saying an inch down the bore? beyond the 'leade' where the rifling starts? I would not advise this as you risk detonation or getting a pellet skirt stuck. While I do not doubt you can get excellent accuracy doing so, it would require something to precisely place the pellet in the same place every time.
barrel is not obstructed in a blank gun? I think it is in my country (France)
These are not blank guns. They are real, .22 lr guns. The .22 blanks are just .22 lr cases with a crimp instead of a bullet. America does not have many blank guns available. I have used blank guns to scar away geese. If we need to defend ourselves, real guns are available with a background check.
I love France, by the way. We visited in 2018. Tried to stay away from the tourist sites, but we did spend a day in Paris, but we enjoyed Beauvais Cathedral. We had the cathedral all to ourselves, except for a few cats.
Great job man! Nice editing. I would like to see heavier pellets tested for accuracy. I shoot PCP air rifles and have pellets from 16.0grains to 32.4grains. I think the heavier skirts will withstand the stretch of high pressure #4's to resolve the skirt splitting mid flight. I use different weighted pellets according to gun, range, and/or target. I bet that lil rossi could drive tacks at 25 yd range with some Beeman Kodiak Copper plated 21.12 grain pellets. $12 for 200...
Thanks for watching. I have thought through your recommendations and let me add a bit of prespective. When you consider the combined cost of the pellets and blanks that I used in making my video, we come up with roughly $40 for 500 shots. That is about as expensive as CCI Mini Mags (if you can find them) at WalMart. When you start paying 3 times more for the pellets, you are cutting into premium target .22 territory. The math just doesn't work out there. Even if the shortage continues, at that price you can go on Armslist and find a scalper to sell you cheaper ammo.
@Ben I've considered that also, but the current price for 30 grain .22 air rifle pellets is .15 each. Ramsets currently cost anywhere from .06 to .10 each. What would be cool IMO, would be to get an air rifle barrel, and adapt it to a single shot .22 LR firearm like OP has. That way you could use the cheap air rifle pellets and have better performance.
Did you have a lot of leading in the bore?
There was leading, but no more than a revolver shooting bare lead bullets gets. It did clean out well with a bronze brush, though. I did make a point of running a wet patch down the bores the night before I went out shooting. The Break-Free has PTFE in it and provides a bit of a barrier, even with all of the heat and friction. It cleans well because of it. Another thing you can do is fire plated bullets intermittently and at the end of the range session to cut down on leading. Neither of these guns had a bore that was worn or pitted. An older barrel might end up being more pitted if treated this way. I was careful and checked the bore often (after each shot towards the end) to ensure that nothing unsafe was happening.
I wonder if it would work better with a solid or coded copper pellet
Maybe, but understand the purpose behind this is not to build a better system, it is a substitute for .22 LR ammo. If you have to pay more per pellet than you do for premium, loaded .22 ammo, then what's the point? Add the cost of the blanks in, and you've crossed over into the absurd. I do have an upcoming series of videos exploring various .22 pellets and other projectiles. If you're subscribed, you'll see it sooner or later.
+RyeOnHam good point
In Joule:
The yellow at maximum 2.864fps (872,94m/s) has got 353.06 Joule of energy with 14.3gr (0,93g) pellets. That's impressive, given the average pellet gun shoots those at about 580fps (170m/s) and 10 Joule.
The pellet travels about 5 times faster but has got 35 times the energy. Physics is awesome! :)
+SimSimon87 It's pretty impressive, yes.
How do you think this would do in a revolver ie. a Ruger Wrangler?
I have a video on that, but the spoiler alert answer is that the pellets dropped straight through the cylinder. Since only the barrel is rifled, there is nothing to hold a pellet in place.
How bad did you scratch the barrel? Couldn't find a wooden dowl
Didn't. Could have. Didn't.
Ok, did you try with solid led bullits ?
Why, yes I did. I actually have an entire playlist of, like, a dozen related videos. Here's the one where I shoot pulled bullets: goo.gl/Heiov6
nice little jet of fire from the pistol~
Lots of smoke as well.
I had posted over on Jeffs channel about using gamo raptor pellets since they are loghter and harder than lead. They advertise them to be 25 percent faster
Oooohhhh, I don't know if that translates to firearms very well. I do not have any Gamo Raptors nor do I plan on getting any. I do have a series of upcoming videos using different projectiles. If you are subscribed, they will be out eventually.
Good to go. Airgun barrels are usually softer steel than rifle barrels and since they are lighter pressures would be lower, but on the other hand of that is you may not get as much of the powder to burn and actually generate lower velocities. I have done it in the past with my old .22 marlin bolt and had them passing straight through full size phone books with ease but never had a chrono to run them over. May just have to pick one up and revisit it myself.
The quality of the steel and the weight of the barrel/rifle do not substantially effect velocity. Generally, powder burn is directly proportional to barrel LENGTH and projectile weight alone. Harder bullets will not give any more or less velocity. In fact, a harder bullet might produce less velocity because it has more friction going down the bore. A softer bullet will conform to the shape of the rifling more easily. What you are likely seeing probably has more to do with pressure dynamics unrelated to anything you are attributing it to.
I've reloaded for years using different lead blends, gas checks, half-jackets, full jackets, plating, moly coating, bore lapping, bore treatment, etc. and can tell you that the vast majority of it is just snake oil. Don't look much beyond good ol' powder charge and bullet weight.