That is a great unit you put together. On the fan, whilst now it's unneeded, with time it will tell its worth. Mostly because of temperature differences and age saying its word, so it's worth having them. Again, awesome welder!
That thing sounds like a War plane coming in for an Attack! I'm in the market for an engine drive welder and on a tight budget and I'm seriously considering making my own . Thanks for the Upload
it is originally a very well done setup, for sure, the belt is a major improvement over the chain and the improvement you've done makes this machine a perfect amateur portable welder..
Thanks! I have some upgrades planned, a 3-gang knife switch to change between delta and wye configuration on the alternator and I'm going to try tig welding aluminum with the un-rectified output. Hopefully the AC freq. is not too high.
Jake von Slatt something I have difficulty to understand, when, you use DC current, you combine the current produced by all three phases that you convert to DC to make the total production of the alternator, if you try to combine the phases to retrieve the output, you'll make a major short in your winding so the output will be about nil to my understanding, the best you can do is to use one phase from the central knot to the output and globally, you'll lose dynamic effect of the magnetic field. it would be interesting that you keep us informed of the result
@@jacquespoirier9071 There are two ways to wire three phase motors and alternators, Delta and Wye. If you google "delta vs wye" you'll see what I mean. My alternator is currently wired in Wye mode but Delta should give higher current and lower voltage. For AC I'll only pull current from two of the three connections. I have a battery and second alternator so my excitation current comes from that supply, not from the welding alternator. It runs through a potentiometer for current control but I don't get a lot of variability so I may upgrade that to a PWM circuit.
I dont think the original old generator was made to weld with you need a special diodes for welding. Im glad ur investment paid out, i am making mine too thanks for your video
These generators were widely used in DIY welders in the 50s and 60s, it was just already toast! Thanks! I here that Leece Neville alternators for school buses are particularly heavy duty and good for welders.
I know this is an old vid and I don't know what else you have done but I have a caution for you. MIG and SMAW (stick) are incompatible processes ....one is constant current and one is constant voltage (don't recall which is which) so a spool gun will not work well with that set up....however TIG works very nicely ....the high frequency pulsed square wave makes for a pretty stable arc and almost starts like a high freq arc starter.....Will not be an optimal set up.....as you won't have a foot pedal or AC (at least without further mods) but it would be interesting to see how it works out for you.....you all ready have a stinger switch you could easily incorperate a gas solenoid and with a largish capacitor could time delay the relay for some post flow......so you are all ready ahead of most scratch start converted stick welding rigs.
Interrestig. Great work. I woud make it with a 24 volt alternator. Higher voltage should be better. As arc stabilisator I saw on a german welder an big coil ,few turns of thick cooper wires. I have a the engine of a old generator ,it has intergrated RPM Controller( flyweel type as usual) . The old DC generators runs on the Rotor,all current come from the Rotor out,which set lot of stress on slip ring ,brushes,may be thats why it didnt work
Not bad at all, when I was growing up those WW2 aircraft generators were a dime a dozen, now the last one I saw for sale was almost $1000.00 and alternators are so much more efficient anyway. Sure would be interested in seeing how you did the alternator internally. Thanks for the video.
I basically just gutted it and bought the ends of the three coils out through the vents. I've since added a big knife switch that lets me switch between Delta and Wye configuration and I've found it helpful for different types of welding. MIG works better in Delta while in Wye mode it's definitely easier to keep a stick going.
built one fifty years ago with an aircraft generator. there were two that were used, a P1 and an R2. the R2but out 400 amps as i remember, powered it with a flathead ford. there is a website that shows the wiring diagram I think they were Jack and Heinz or something like that.. it was a long time ago
That's how this one started out, with a P1 I believe. Unfortunately, the generator was toast when I got the welder and replacements on ebay were way more expensive that the Ford alternator. I've kept the generator and one day, perhaps in retirement, I'll make a stab at rewinding the coils.
It was actually pretty easy. Just remove the diode block and cut the wires free. They'll be 6 wire and you just use a multi-meter to identify the 3 pairs. The key bit of info is that it does not matter the phase of any given pair so all you need to know is which two leads go to each coil.
put a capacitor on the relay for the throttle. and maybe a blocking diode maybe a large capacitor so it keeps the throttle open longer. maybe 30-45 seconds maybe more probably not practical for more. depends on power use on the coil!
You are like me man. I say uhhh a lot. Like I find it so funny. This is why I don't make videos with me talking in them. If I do it need to make short videos. Think before I speak haha
the control I think that you called a potentiometer is possibly a variac or auto transformer the knob is connected to a wiper that that moves across the coils this gives you the variable out put I could be incorrect but I think that’s what it is
In an AC application this could very well be a Variac, and they do look a lot like old school pots, but the field current in an alternator is DC so a Variac wouldn't work here.
I'd guess the engine is at about 3500 RPM when welding. MIG works well! Interestingly a big capacitor across the lead makes stick much more stable and easier but MIG harder. I'm sure I could DC TIG but I haven't had a chance to try the AC straight off of the alternator yet. Got all the pieces, but just haven't had the time.
The built-in diodes in an alternator will break down and fail at 36 volts and the unloaded voltage of the welder is closer to 100 volts. The 400 Amp diode pack is good to several hundred volts before it breaks down.
You said you don't think you are getting 200 amps and I'm not sure how the regulator works but I assume it is relatively efficient so like 14v 200a 2800 watts is probably a good goal because if you are welding I assume your like mid 40s to maybe 60 volts right
Yeah, un-loaded it's a hundred or more at speed and it drops to 50-60 when I start welding. It's a 250 Amp alternator and from what I've read about other builds, people say they get about 200 Amps. I have a 400 Amp shunt and meter and as soon as I get around to installing them I'll post here about how many Amps it's actually pushing.
Did you ever measure the open circuit voltage between the positive electrode cable and ground at welding speed and again across them while welding? I am especially curious what it will be while welding.It will take 120 amps or so to burn a 1/8" welding rod and if the voltage drops to 24-30 like most welders it would be drawing 2880-3600 watts of power. That would be right on the top limit of what the alternator was designed to put out; but could probably stand it.
I've got a 400 amp shunt and meter and am hoping to get that installed next to the voltmeter and do some tests, but I haven't yet. The alternator gets damn hot and the aluminum case definitely changed color after the first run, but it seems to be just short of the temperature that would discolor the varnish on the windings. I have no doubt that the alternator is being pushed well beyond its rating, I mean listen to the engine speed slow down when I'm welding, that is a 40hp 4 cylinder engine! "Weldernators" have the reputation of not lasting "that long", but I think that likely means years for the sort demands I'll put on this welder but weeks for someone that used it daily in a commercial setting.
I made one a few yrs ago from a 100 amp Leece-Neville 24v alternator that I retied to Delta and drove it from a big pulley on the back of my 20 hp B Farmall tractor. It is a lot bigger in size than the alternator you used. I borrowed an arc stabilizer from a portable Forney welder I had. I also had a rheostat in the field feeding 12volts. It welded fantastic and sounded just like a Lincoln pipeliner. And it didn't get real hot; got pretty warm. I have another one of them that I need to take apart and redo.
Yeah, my 1989 Thomas bus has a 150 amp Leece-Neville alternator and it is probably about twice the size and weight of this unit so I don't doubt it for a moment!
Did you see the other two Electroluxes? I grab them from the dump and have one at each machine in the shop so I don't have to roll the big shop vac around. My Mom made the vest/jacket thing, it's a custom pirate vest pattern made with leather from thrift store jackets, it rocks! The hat is a Country Gentleman "Wilton" Amazon Affiliate link: amzn.to/2KPB26j
I don't think so. You'd have to have external power to excite the armature and I think it would be really hard to start an arc. Also it would be hella dangerous!
@@jpfiero The main difference is that the armature of the alternator is an electromagnet that's powered by the 12 volt supply. The AC motor's armature is just a stack of iron plates shaped so they spin in the rotating magnet field of coils. AC motors will make power if you spin them, but they need a "kick" from an outside source and a steady load to establish the magnetic field.
I have a 12v 160Amp delco remi slternator y try to do it but it dont go up more than 30 volts . It have delta triangle wire stator conecction. And the rotor resistance measured us 5.7 homs. I dont understand why i dont work . But with the same condition with and alternator if lower Amp 50Amp it works perfetc go up to 70 volts. Why
Are you using the internal diodes? My understanding is they max out at 36 volts so you may have shorted diodes in the unit that isn't working--but that is just a guess.
Jake von Slatt how it can check them properly .? Could i solve the problem just by changing the stator from delta to star cobfiguration ? So it may be posible to go up to more than 30 volt or 70 volts so i can make a simple arc
i have a question about the 3 thase wiring whhy did you not just use the diode bride that the alt. cam with is their any advantages in doing what you did if so what are they and how do you do it i dont quite understand it
if the alt. stator has 3 ring connectors with two wires on them similar to this (store.alternatorparts.com/images/products/display/04422.jpg) will i have to do what you did with the wye or delta wire configuration PS. that jacket is very neat
That stator is wired in a delta config, like mine. If you want to try a wye, you'll have to cut off the rings and rewire. Mine is working fine in delta config so I have not yet tried the wye which theoretically provides more amperage at a lower voltage.
Jake von slatt ..would it be possible to clone a Tesla three faze alternator excited by an 1880s Edison DC Dynamo and ebay it ..that would totally be steampunk of you. a guy of your ingenuity would be able to cast the parts make a diy kit build assembly from the original patent plans from Tesla and Edison
Amy . . you need at least 15HP engine to make a decent welder . . which would cost you much more than a used small car engine and not nearly as strong.
Cool but a 4 cylinder running 1 alternator seems unnecessary you should add one more alternator or a compressor just got to the part about the second alternator but still
AWWW come on.....please post links and such to a parts list....You get an "ATTA boy" for this one... There's a lotta guys that want/need to know how to build one of these. Wiring diagrams would be nice. Some of the guys I'm sharing this video link with are dumb as dirt electrically.
??? Are you DAFT ? for the price of that alternator which you could have got in a salvage yard by the way ? You could have got a quality mosfet 3 in 1 machine that does TIG and does stick weld and also does plasma cutting .. and it would operate on 110 or 220 voltage and the most expensive part would be making a 50 foot extension cord for it .. and the welds would have been thouand times better then your stick welder in fact as a novice you would most likely make welds with TIG on par with a professional using a stick welder ..
Ah! you have fallen into a "well, actually" trap! From wikipedia: "A potentiometer is a three-terminal resistor with a sliding or rotating contact that forms an adjustable voltage divider. If only two terminals are used, one end and the wiper, it acts as a variable resistor or rheostat." So if we are to be ultra-precise, the device is a potentiometer (pot) that is currently wired to function as a rheostat. Interesting, and I have to check voltages and power ratings first, I have been considering re-wiring it as a voltage dividing potentiometer to improve the control over stator current.
Diagrams and blueprints often encourage people to experiment with forces they’re not qualified to manipulate. If you need a diagram to decode “wired in a wye configuration to a 3-phase rectifier” you probably shouldn’t be messing with this kind of thing.
That is a great unit you put together. On the fan, whilst now it's unneeded, with time it will tell its worth. Mostly because of temperature differences and age saying its word, so it's worth having them. Again, awesome welder!
This is ever so cool, how you brought this all together using the existing setup mashed in with the modern tech. Kudos.
Thank you!
That thing sounds like a War plane coming in for an Attack!
I'm in the market for an engine drive welder and on a tight budget and I'm seriously considering making my own . Thanks for the Upload
Thanks! More updates here: ua-cam.com/video/FQImkglUnLw/v-deo.html&feature=emb_logo
it is originally a very well done setup, for sure, the belt is a major improvement over the chain and the improvement you've done makes this machine a perfect amateur portable welder..
Thanks! I have some upgrades planned, a 3-gang knife switch to change between delta and wye configuration on the alternator and I'm going to try tig welding aluminum with the un-rectified output. Hopefully the AC freq. is not too high.
Jake von Slatt something I have difficulty to understand, when, you use DC current, you combine the current produced by all three phases that you convert to DC to make the total production of the alternator, if you try to combine the phases to retrieve the output, you'll make a major short in your winding so the output will be about nil
to my understanding, the best you can do is to use one phase from the central knot to the output and globally, you'll lose dynamic effect of the magnetic field.
it would be interesting that you keep us informed of the result
@@jacquespoirier9071 There are two ways to wire three phase motors and alternators, Delta and Wye. If you google "delta vs wye" you'll see what I mean. My alternator is currently wired in Wye mode but Delta should give higher current and lower voltage. For AC I'll only pull current from two of the three connections.
I have a battery and second alternator so my excitation current comes from that supply, not from the welding alternator. It runs through a potentiometer for current control but I don't get a lot of variability so I may upgrade that to a PWM circuit.
I dont think the original old generator was made to weld with you need a special diodes for welding. Im glad ur investment paid out, i am making mine too thanks for your video
These generators were widely used in DIY welders in the 50s and 60s, it was just already toast!
Thanks! I here that Leece Neville alternators for school buses are particularly heavy duty and good for welders.
"Replaced the Lucas generator." Words spoken by many owners of Little British Cars.
hoppes9
I have heard Lucas electrics lacks liking!
Lucas : the prince of darkness
I know this is an old vid and I don't know what else you have done but I have a caution for you. MIG and SMAW (stick) are incompatible processes ....one is constant current and one is constant voltage (don't recall which is which) so a spool gun will not work well with that set up....however TIG works very nicely ....the high frequency pulsed square wave makes for a pretty stable arc and almost starts like a high freq arc starter.....Will not be an optimal set up.....as you won't have a foot pedal or AC (at least without further mods) but it would be interesting to see how it works out for you.....you all ready have a stinger switch you could easily incorperate a gas solenoid and with a largish capacitor could time delay the relay for some post flow......so you are all ready ahead of most scratch start converted stick welding rigs.
Interrestig. Great work.
I woud make it with a 24 volt alternator. Higher voltage should be better.
As arc stabilisator I saw on a german welder an big coil ,few turns of thick cooper wires.
I have a the engine of a old generator ,it has intergrated RPM Controller( flyweel type as usual) .
The old DC generators runs on the Rotor,all current come from the Rotor out,which set lot of stress on slip ring ,brushes,may be thats why it didnt work
welding needs current though, and a 24V alternator of the same size would have less current output in theory than a 12V one
@@MiG21aholic There are over 200 Amps alternators.
@@cristianpopescu78 for 24V they cost a fortune at that current rating
@@MiG21aholic What about two 24 v 100 amp alternator in parallel ? Mercedes-Benz 150 eur per piece.
@@cristianpopescu78 would just have to wire the field circuits together so they put out equal current
Not bad at all, when I was growing up those WW2 aircraft generators were a dime a dozen, now the last one I saw for sale was almost $1000.00 and alternators are so much more efficient anyway. Sure would be interested in seeing how you did the alternator internally. Thanks for the video.
I basically just gutted it and bought the ends of the three coils out through the vents. I've since added a big knife switch that lets me switch between Delta and Wye configuration and I've found it helpful for different types of welding. MIG works better in Delta while in Wye mode it's definitely easier to keep a stick going.
Outstanding work Jake!
built one fifty years ago with an aircraft generator. there were two that were used, a P1 and an R2. the R2but out
400 amps as i remember, powered it with a flathead ford. there is a website that shows the wiring diagram
I think they were Jack and Heinz or something like that.. it was a long time ago
That's how this one started out, with a P1 I believe. Unfortunately, the generator was toast when I got the welder and replacements on ebay were way more expensive that the Ford alternator. I've kept the generator and one day, perhaps in retirement, I'll make a stab at rewinding the coils.
wiring schematic is on www.api-assembled.com/design/tech/welder/welder.htm
so really nice work Jake and I enjoyed the previews at the end of the vid with the nice music... thanks and will be checking back ! God Bless : )
Nice! I'd like to see how you did the alternator step by step.
It was actually pretty easy. Just remove the diode block and cut the wires free. They'll be 6 wire and you just use a multi-meter to identify the 3 pairs. The key bit of info is that it does not matter the phase of any given pair so all you need to know is which two leads go to each coil.
200amps is enough man my Lincoln ranger 8 max output on dc is 210amps you can do Lot with that 3/16rods
I have noticed . pulleys are like crazy pricy . I never thought they would cost so much!
put a capacitor on the relay for the throttle. and maybe a blocking diode maybe a large capacitor so it keeps the throttle open longer. maybe 30-45 seconds maybe more probably not practical for more. depends on power use on the coil!
It's a big coil, I'm planning on making a 555 timer circuit.
You are like me man. I say uhhh a lot. Like I find it so funny. This is why I don't make videos with me talking in them. If I do it need to make short videos. Think before I speak haha
I say go ahead and make the videos! Haters gonna hate, makers gonna make!
Excellent video..
your welds will LOOK / perfrom better if you go - ELECTRODE!! nice JOB overall!!!!
Please, keep the videos going.
the control I think that you called a potentiometer is possibly a variac or auto transformer the knob is connected to a wiper that that moves across the coils this gives you the variable out put I could be incorrect but I think that’s what it is
In an AC application this could very well be a Variac, and they do look a lot like old school pots, but the field current in an alternator is DC so a Variac wouldn't work here.
Nice set-up.
Great job.
Is it easy to move around?
super tehnologie
What rpm do you need to weld and can you mig or tig or just stick
I'd guess the engine is at about 3500 RPM when welding. MIG works well! Interestingly a big capacitor across the lead makes stick much more stable and easier but MIG harder. I'm sure I could DC TIG but I haven't had a chance to try the AC straight off of the alternator yet. Got all the pieces, but just haven't had the time.
well done. delta more amps. wye wound more voltage
You already had 250v DC coming out of the alternator. Why not use it as it was.
The built-in diodes in an alternator will break down and fail at 36 volts and the unloaded voltage of the welder is closer to 100 volts. The 400 Amp diode pack is good to several hundred volts before it breaks down.
@@JakevonSlatt why should the output go to 100 Volts? . . just limit it the 12V or 20V etc with the proper voltage regulator.
You said you don't think you are getting 200 amps and I'm not sure how the regulator works but I assume it is relatively efficient so like 14v 200a 2800 watts is probably a good goal because if you are welding I assume your like mid 40s to maybe 60 volts right
Yeah, un-loaded it's a hundred or more at speed and it drops to 50-60 when I start welding. It's a 250 Amp alternator and from what I've read about other builds, people say they get about 200 Amps. I have a 400 Amp shunt and meter and as soon as I get around to installing them I'll post here about how many Amps it's actually pushing.
Did you ever measure the open circuit voltage between the positive electrode cable and ground at welding speed and again across them while welding? I am especially curious what it will be while welding.It will take 120 amps or so to burn a 1/8" welding rod and if the voltage drops to 24-30 like most welders it would be drawing 2880-3600 watts of power. That would be right on the top limit of what the alternator was designed to put out; but could probably stand it.
I've got a 400 amp shunt and meter and am hoping to get that installed next to the voltmeter and do some tests, but I haven't yet. The alternator gets damn hot and the aluminum case definitely changed color after the first run, but it seems to be just short of the temperature that would discolor the varnish on the windings. I have no doubt that the alternator is being pushed well beyond its rating, I mean listen to the engine speed slow down when I'm welding, that is a 40hp 4 cylinder engine! "Weldernators" have the reputation of not lasting "that long", but I think that likely means years for the sort demands I'll put on this welder but weeks for someone that used it daily in a commercial setting.
I made one a few yrs ago from a 100 amp Leece-Neville 24v alternator that I retied to Delta and drove it from a big pulley on the back of my 20 hp B Farmall tractor. It is a lot bigger in size than the alternator you used. I borrowed an arc stabilizer from a portable Forney welder I had. I also had a rheostat in the field feeding 12volts. It welded fantastic and sounded just like a Lincoln pipeliner. And it didn't get real hot; got pretty warm. I have another one of them that I need to take apart and redo.
Yeah, my 1989 Thomas bus has a 150 amp Leece-Neville alternator and it is probably about twice the size and weight of this unit so I don't doubt it for a moment!
Nice 'shop vac' mounted under your bench!
Nice jacket!
Nice potentiometer!
PS:
Do you have an Amazon link for your hat?
Did you see the other two Electroluxes? I grab them from the dump and have one at each machine in the shop so I don't have to roll the big shop vac around. My Mom made the vest/jacket thing, it's a custom pirate vest pattern made with leather from thrift store jackets, it rocks!
The hat is a Country Gentleman "Wilton" Amazon Affiliate link: amzn.to/2KPB26j
...inductor in a welder, is named REACTOR........you may adjust the number of turns (inductance) for each amperage setting of welding....
You know that's what I thought but I think the phrase "arc reactor" has been diluted by the Tony Stark Ironman franchise
Could this be done using a 3phase 240vac motor instead of an alternator?
I don't think so. You'd have to have external power to excite the armature and I think it would be really hard to start an arc. Also it would be hella dangerous!
@@JakevonSlatt thanks for the reply, I have a few laying around so was curious what would happen. Do you know what the difference is?
@@jpfiero The main difference is that the armature of the alternator is an electromagnet that's powered by the 12 volt supply. The AC motor's armature is just a stack of iron plates shaped so they spin in the rotating magnet field of coils. AC motors will make power if you spin them, but they need a "kick" from an outside source and a steady load to establish the magnetic field.
@@JakevonSlatt thanks that explains it.
Why did you bypass the alternator diodes and then use a three-phase rectifier?
The diodes in the alternator are good to 250 amps but only 36 volts and in welder mode the voltages will go significantly higher.
Voltage to keep a welding arc stable is about 30-60 volts.
you got another subbed today!
I have a 12v 160Amp delco remi slternator y try to do it but it dont go up more than 30 volts . It have delta triangle wire stator conecction. And the rotor resistance measured us 5.7 homs. I dont understand why i dont work . But with the same condition with and alternator if lower Amp 50Amp it works perfetc go up to 70 volts. Why
Are you using the internal diodes? My understanding is they max out at 36 volts so you may have shorted diodes in the unit that isn't working--but that is just a guess.
I measures . Checked all them with a multimeter. At diode scale. All them conduct the current at just one ditecction.
Jake von Slatt how it can check them properly .? Could i solve the problem just by changing the stator from delta to star cobfiguration ? So it may be posible to go up to more than 30 volt or 70 volts so i can make a simple arc
That's what they should do so they're OK.
Going to the star configuration will *lower* the voltage but increase the amps, so I think your have a different problem.
i have a question about the 3 thase wiring whhy did you not just use the diode bride that the alt. cam with is their any advantages in doing what you did if so what are they and how do you do it i dont quite understand it
Stock alternator diodes are only good to 32 volts, they would not have lasted long!
should have realized that
if the alt. stator has 3 ring connectors with two wires on them similar to this (store.alternatorparts.com/images/products/display/04422.jpg) will i have to do what you did with the wye or delta wire configuration PS. that jacket is very neat
That stator is wired in a delta config, like mine. If you want to try a wye, you'll have to cut off the rings and rewire. Mine is working fine in delta config so I have not yet tried the wye which theoretically provides more amperage at a lower voltage.
so how was your alt. wired
Jake von slatt ..would it be possible to clone a Tesla three faze alternator excited by an 1880s Edison DC Dynamo and ebay it ..that would totally be steampunk of you. a guy of your ingenuity would be able to cast the parts make a diy kit build assembly from the original patent plans from Tesla and Edison
Sounds like the perfect Kickstarter!
I would have taken the old generator down to my local rebuilder for repair.
I might do that eventually if I can find a source for rewinding supplies.
We call that a rheostat
delta to star,....in series all right....from delta parallel.....
More detail and mods here: ua-cam.com/video/FQImkglUnLw/v-deo.html
Might be easier just to buy a welder. The cheap amico with a 220v used generator.
That's no fun!
Amy . . you need at least 15HP engine to make a decent welder . . which would cost you much more than a used small car engine and not nearly as strong.
Cool but a 4 cylinder running 1 alternator seems unnecessary you should add one more alternator or a compressor just got to the part about the second alternator but still
Definitely thinking about a compressor, but also thinking about moving the alternator and components over to a yard-car for more convenience.
AWWW come on.....please post links and such to a parts list....You get an "ATTA boy" for this one... There's a lotta guys that want/need to know how to build one of these. Wiring diagrams would be nice. Some of the guys I'm sharing this video link with are dumb as dirt electrically.
The thing to google is "weldernator" or "diy weldernator", there is A LOT of info out there!
??? Are you DAFT ? for the price of that alternator which you could have got in a salvage yard by the way ? You could have got a quality mosfet 3 in 1 machine that does TIG and does stick weld and also does plasma cutting .. and it would operate on 110 or 220 voltage and the most expensive part would be making a 50 foot extension cord for it .. and the welds would have been thouand times better then your stick welder in fact as a novice you would most likely make welds with TIG on par with a professional using a stick welder ..
Um, the alternator cost $129 and was delivered to my door: www.amazon.com/Output-Alternator-Lincoln-Mercury-GL-351/dp/B007G8R86I
super
love the video.... just learn to not say uhhhh .. uhhhh between every word.
"just learn not to say" yeah, no. It doesn't work that way.
Why would anyone use English Lucas electrical anything!! They sucked in cars when they were new..lol...from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠
The engine is from a 1946 Austin, Lucas was OEM.
Your pot is really a rheostat
Ah! you have fallen into a "well, actually" trap! From wikipedia: "A potentiometer is a three-terminal resistor with a sliding or rotating contact that forms an adjustable voltage divider. If only two terminals are used, one end and the wiper, it acts as a variable resistor or rheostat." So if we are to be ultra-precise, the device is a potentiometer (pot) that is currently wired to function as a rheostat. Interesting, and I have to check voltages and power ratings first, I have been considering re-wiring it as a voltage dividing potentiometer to improve the control over stator current.
Jake von Slatt hey! Go fuck your self.
Dude, you started it.
@@HillbillyRednecking not his fault he actually knows something about what you were trying to show off your bad knowledge of.... Just saying....
Lucas Plank there’s something funny about assumptions...
uuuhhhh....
Kebanyakan ngomong pakdeee
Blah Blah Blah.
There's nothing like a
diagram / blueprint.
Diagrams and blueprints often encourage people to experiment with forces they’re not qualified to manipulate. If you need a diagram to decode “wired in a wye configuration to a 3-phase rectifier” you probably shouldn’t be messing with this kind of thing.