I love the way you remangle the English Language. I am not criticising you at all, for I speak so little of your language I would be lost in a shit show shouting for a beer. Your warm lilting use of such phases as 'ah, a liddle bit' is most charming and draws me in to watch more and more of your UA-cam machining videos. I also love the almost casual relationship you have mit der shaper. Two lathes for sure, a mill, well established with a dividing head and the shaper, a shaper you lovingly drape your arm over and declare, 'it vill do'. OMG of course 'it will do' I mean, It weighs as much as a car for goshes sakes. You have earned another subscriber. Keep it up, I want to see more of your adventures.
Those digital calipers are sometimes known as "very-near" calipers, but I've had my Mitutoya one since 1984 and it gets used every week and it was worth every penny that work paid for it !
They are most accurate when you measure as deep in the jaws as possible, the nearer the measurement point is to the axis of the scale the better, which is why micrometers are inheritantly more accurate than calipers.
Michel, I have no idea why people who should know better call a good digital caliper or for that matter a well made vernier caliper a Guess-o-meter. I am not a hobbyist and I use a Mitutoyo digital caliper for much of my daily work. I have a few larger Starrett and Mitutoyo vernier calipers that get used when appropriate. When I need to measure to .001" or .02mm they are always spot on and more than adequate if I do my part using them. When the need to measure finer arises, the proper micrometer or gauge is employed. I love the beam engine and watched the original build. I like the fact that you are going to improve it with those fine new tools you have acquired. Cheers from New Hampshire USA
Hi Rusty, Nice to see the little beam engine again.. Sure running nice now with the improvements. Yeah I'm lazy and tend to use the digital calipers 98.5 % of the time 😕😕
Hi Michel ☺ the beam engine seems to run just fine, maybe a little thicker oil might help whith the leaks. Nothing wrong whith your digital caliper comparing it to the micrometer although I have problems whith mine when dirty fingerprints get on the metal scale, the electronics can't read it right, so a wipe whith alcohol, or lighter fluid puts it's right. On top of the screen body you should find two small screws, sometimes they need a little tighten to take out play in the sliding part, which helps maintain a zero. Cheers mate, thanks for the video, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
To make your lathe turn parallel try adjusting the tailstock offset. If larger at tailstock end, adjust tailstock towards you, if smaller, adjust away from you.
I love this machine and bring me memorries of 60 years ago.I made already a few small ones(mrpete) and this is my opportunity to do it.I will keep my fingers crossed.Thank you,Michele
It might be an idea to fit an air tool oiler in the air line , they are dirt cheap these days, not only would it help with lubrication but might help seal the pistons and valves too.
Very much fun! I will enjoy looking at the original build video as well. Very nice comparison of the two lathes - but as you say your smaller lathe is still a perfectly nice machine for certain kinds of parts. The trick is understanding each machine and its capabilities.
G'day Rusty. Calipers are Calipers, if you keep check on the "0" settings they work fine. For a more precise sizing, I always go to micrometers after initially check the zero point. I used to do a lot of Port & polishing on racing heads, whereas my tool extension was 1/4" by 4" with the same mini hacksaw slit in the end, accommodating various grit sizes of emery cloth grit. This was connected to an air grinder between 10 & 20000 RPM Thanks for your Great Video. Well done
Having used guess-o-meters and calipers for over 40 years I understand why people call them that but the name is not always deserved. All other things being equal (clean faces, etc.) the micrometers jaws are more rigid and using the ratchet (if provided) ensures consistent tension on the faces and the highest accuracy. The key to reasonable accuracy in calipers is to always use the same (moderate) tension so that the blades don't flex. It is an acquired skill. For average shop use it is perfectly fine. I have an ancient (I mean 'antique') Lufkin micrometer without a ratchet stop and I can also get varying results depending on how consistent I apply the pressure. I still use each of them a lot.
Great Rusti, works much better now! just a tip if I may, when using the micrometer, put your pinky finger through the anvil, and use the forefinger and thumb to turn the thimble, it's quite comfortable like that, cheers, Dave
I use my guessometer all the time as you will have noticed, and only get the mic out when it is absolutely necessary. Some sort of air powered "Steam Engine" is on my to-do list. Well resolved. 👍
The honing procedure worked a treat, so my suggestion is a moot point. Why not open up the other end of the valve body to gain access to both ends with a boring bar then cap it off?
If i have no reamer for a certain size i use e lap. Made from aluminum, bras, copper, hardwood. Whstever i have laying around This leave verry smooth bores.....
Hey Michel.I hope you don´t mind me sending you some extra comments.After watching all your videos about the beam steam engine I feel that I want to make this machine.So just do it.Thank you.
@@Rustinox Most head stocks on these lathes sit over ground bed ways. Its very common to adjust the tail stock to machine parallel cylindrical parts, equally we adjust the tail stock to machine a tapered part. you will see an adjustment screw either side of the tail stock for this reason. Keep up the good work.
Maybe the prejudice against calipers dates back to when we only had vernier scales which tends not to be practical for high linear resolution compared to a micrometer with a screw or a good digital caliper. The conventional calipers I have are only 0.1mm scales. Digital micrometers are the best of both worlds :)
They're called guessometers bc regardless of anything you will never get as accurate or as precise of a measurement from them as you will from a micrometer. 🤷 This for a few reasons, first and foremost is lack of Repeatability/User Error, depending on how you hold the calipers against the piece or how much you tighten them against a part you can and will get different measurements even when measuring on the same spot. Another is with Digital calipers only have so much resolution/digits/decimal places that can be shown and anything beyond that decimal place is rounded up, which is not good if you're going for accuracy and precision parts. Fact is calipers aka guessometers are fine for doing quick checks to see if you're in the ballpark so to speak, I use mine everyday when I'm working on the mill and lathe at my job to do quick reference measurements but as soon as I'm close to that final dimension it's time to switch over to the micrometer for the final say.
I used both the guess-o-meter and a good micrometer ,, the guess -o-meter most will say .001 OR .0015 were the other will say ?001 plus 1/10th to 9/10th it up to viewser to decide about is it a guess-o-meter
Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.
I love the way you remangle the English Language. I am not criticising you at all, for I speak so little of your language I would be lost in a shit show shouting for a beer. Your warm lilting use of such phases as 'ah, a liddle bit' is most charming and draws me in to watch more and more of your UA-cam machining videos. I also love the almost casual relationship you have mit der shaper. Two lathes for sure, a mill, well established with a dividing head and the shaper, a shaper you lovingly drape your arm over and declare, 'it vill do'. OMG of course 'it will do' I mean, It weighs as much as a car for goshes sakes. You have earned another subscriber. Keep it up, I want to see more of your adventures.
You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to watch.
What a wonderful double beam you made....my lathe has a taper as well that I haven't been able to take out - Cheers Jim
Fixing the taper problem is a real challenge.
Those digital calipers are sometimes known as "very-near" calipers, but I've had my Mitutoya one since 1984 and it gets used every week and it was worth every penny that work paid for it !
Quality tools are already half of the work done :)
They are most accurate when you measure as deep in the jaws as possible, the nearer the measurement point is to the axis of the scale the better, which is why micrometers are inheritantly more accurate than calipers.
Well you could have spent a few hundred euro's on a kit but you spent a little using what you have. Great to see something made from bits. 👍.
Steve.
Coming up with a solution without paying more kit, is a fun part of this machinist hobby.
Model kits are great but doesn't allow to make mistakes. Scrap build takes away the stress part.
Significant improvement. Interesting project.
Thanks.
I love your sence of humour
Thanks.
2:36 Keilpart, Suhl. Very nice.
Thanks.
Michel, I have no idea why people who should know better call a good digital caliper or for that matter a well made vernier caliper a Guess-o-meter. I am not a hobbyist and I use a Mitutoyo digital caliper for much of my daily work. I have a few larger Starrett and Mitutoyo vernier calipers that get used when appropriate. When I need to measure to .001" or .02mm they are always spot on and more than adequate if I do my part using them. When the need to measure finer arises, the proper micrometer or gauge is employed.
I love the beam engine and watched the original build. I like the fact that you are going to improve it with those fine new tools you have acquired. Cheers from New Hampshire USA
If you have quality callipers, it will work just fine.
Hi Rusty, Nice to see the little beam engine again.. Sure running nice now with the improvements.
Yeah I'm lazy and tend to use the digital calipers 98.5 % of the time 😕😕
Nothing wrong with using calipers. They are made to be used :)
Hi Michel ☺ the beam engine seems to run just fine, maybe a little thicker oil might help whith the leaks. Nothing wrong whith your digital caliper comparing it to the micrometer although I have problems whith mine when dirty fingerprints get on the metal scale, the electronics can't read it right, so a wipe whith alcohol, or lighter fluid puts it's right. On top of the screen body you should find two small screws, sometimes they need a little tighten to take out play in the sliding part, which helps maintain a zero. Cheers mate, thanks for the video, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks Stuart.
Gday, this runs a lot better now, sounds great
Indeed, it does.
Nice tune up, it runs like a clock!
As long as there is air :)
To make your lathe turn parallel try adjusting the tailstock offset. If larger at tailstock end, adjust tailstock towards you, if smaller, adjust away from you.
It's the head stock that's not in line with the bed.
@@Rustinox that's more difficult to correct, if at all possible and I guess you have attempted to do something to align headstock.
Nice improvements. Running very smoothly now. I like the sound the engine makes. Satisfying. Cheers Nobby
Thanks Nobby.
I love this machine and bring me memorries of 60 years ago.I made already a few small ones(mrpete) and this is my opportunity to do it.I will keep my fingers crossed.Thank you,Michele
Thanks.
Nice upgrade to your air engine Michele. Your honing procedure worked wonderfully!
Simple and effective.
It might be an idea to fit an air tool oiler in the air line , they are dirt cheap these days, not only would it help with lubrication but might help seal the pistons and valves too.
Maybe, but this thing will never run for hours.
Very much fun! I will enjoy looking at the original build video as well. Very nice comparison of the two lathes - but as you say your smaller lathe is still a perfectly nice machine for certain kinds of parts. The trick is understanding each machine and its capabilities.
If machine and operator are a team, the sky is the limit.
G'day Rusty. Calipers are Calipers, if you keep check on the "0" settings they work fine. For a more precise sizing, I always go to micrometers after initially check the zero point.
I used to do a lot of Port & polishing on racing heads, whereas my tool extension was 1/4" by 4" with the same mini hacksaw slit in the end, accommodating various grit sizes of emery cloth grit. This was connected to an air grinder between 10 & 20000 RPM
Thanks for your Great Video. Well done
Callipers are also easier to read with old eyes :)
Having used guess-o-meters and calipers for over 40 years I understand why people call them that but the name is not always deserved.
All other things being equal (clean faces, etc.) the micrometers jaws are more rigid and using the ratchet (if provided) ensures consistent tension on the faces and the highest accuracy.
The key to reasonable accuracy in calipers is to always use the same (moderate) tension so that the blades don't flex. It is an acquired skill. For average shop use it is perfectly fine.
I have an ancient (I mean 'antique') Lufkin micrometer without a ratchet stop and I can also get varying results depending on how consistent I apply the pressure. I still use each of them a lot.
Calippers are also easier to read with my worn eyes :)
The engine sounds good. It’s cool watching it run very satisfying. Your improvements worked great. Thanks Michelle
Thanks. It's indeed much better.
A shop made "D" Bit made of oil or water hardening steel can suffice as a reamer to get close tolerance straight holes.
Or just buy a reamer :)
@@Rustinox That works best of course, but when funds are lacking or you need it now or it's a one time use tool a shop made tool can work.
Good video & content as usual. You truly have the patience of Jobe. Good onya
Thanks.
Great Rusti, works much better now! just a tip if I may, when using the micrometer, put your pinky finger through the anvil, and use the forefinger and thumb to turn the thimble, it's quite comfortable like that, cheers, Dave
I know, but it had also to do with the camera angle.
I remember that engine. Nice work. It runs well. Looking good
And fun to build.
I use my guessometer all the time as you will have noticed, and only get the mic out when it is absolutely necessary. Some sort of air powered "Steam Engine" is on my to-do list. Well resolved. 👍
Go for it. It's fun to do.
Nice work Rustinox your engine runs great now. Enjoyed watching the process. Cheers Tony 👍
Thanks Tony.
Very nice engine great work
Thanks.
@@Rustinox your welcome
I love the way you turn scap in usefull parts. nice build and runs great
Thanks.
good job rustinox
Thanks.
As always, an entertaining and inspiring video. Nice improvement of the machine.
Thanks.
Very nice, but there is a knock which doesn't seem right. Usually this is caused by a loose bearing fit. Cheers.
Indeed.
Interesting as always thank you
Thanks.
Digital calipers are versatile, and you only need one to measure up to 200mm. Much better than those little G-clamp thingies.😅
Spot on.
The honing procedure worked a treat, so my suggestion is a moot point. Why not open up the other end of the valve body to gain access to both ends with a boring bar then cap it off?
When flipping the part, it's close to impossible to have it perfect in line.
If i have no reamer for a certain size i use e lap.
Made from aluminum, bras, copper, hardwood.
Whstever i have laying around
This leave verry smooth bores.....
Don't have the righ tool? Use your imagination :)
Gosh I think I saw you make that. How time flies. Now how about an oiler system? Cheers
I posted the first of these build videos in May 2021, so indeed, time flies :)
Hey Michel.I hope you don´t mind me sending you some extra comments.After watching all your videos about the beam steam engine I feel that I want to make this machine.So just do it.Thank you.
Go for it. And show us the result.
Try adjusting the tailstock. This will bring the turning back to parallel
It's the head stock that's not in line.
@@Rustinox Most head stocks on these lathes sit over ground bed ways. Its very common to adjust the tail stock to machine parallel cylindrical parts, equally we adjust the tail stock to machine a tapered part. you will see an adjustment screw either side of the tail stock for this reason. Keep up the good work.
👍😎
Thanks.
Maybe the prejudice against calipers dates back to when we only had vernier scales which tends not to be practical for high linear resolution compared to a micrometer with a screw or a good digital caliper. The conventional calipers I have are only 0.1mm scales. Digital micrometers are the best of both worlds :)
That makes sense.
Rusti, have you considered that your tailstock may not be on centre causing the taper.
The head stock isn't in line with the bed.
🤔 I thought you had solved the compressor noise problem by placing the machine in the neighbor’s house. 😁
He did find out...
@@Rustinox Ah.
They're called guessometers bc regardless of anything you will never get as accurate or as precise of a measurement from them as you will from a micrometer. 🤷
This for a few reasons, first and foremost is lack of Repeatability/User Error, depending on how you hold the calipers against the piece or how much you tighten them against a part you can and will get different measurements even when measuring on the same spot. Another is with Digital calipers only have so much resolution/digits/decimal places that can be shown and anything beyond that decimal place is rounded up, which is not good if you're going for accuracy and precision parts.
Fact is calipers aka guessometers are fine for doing quick checks to see if you're in the ballpark so to speak, I use mine everyday when I'm working on the mill and lathe at my job to do quick reference measurements but as soon as I'm close to that final dimension it's time to switch over to the micrometer for the final say.
Makes perfect sense.
*_The cylinders should be reamed rather than JUST drilled. Without any sort of sealing rings, its going to leak no matter what you do._*
But I don't have any reamers...
@@Rustinox Thats a really bad answer. MSC ships internationally and they have budget reamers. You can buy one at a time or a whole set.
I used both the guess-o-meter and a good micrometer ,, the guess -o-meter most will say .001 OR .0015 were the other will say ?001 plus 1/10th to 9/10th it up to viewser to decide about is it a guess-o-meter
For be both are just fine.
Good repair. Thanks for your time.
My pleasure.