An index for this video: 0:00 - 1:11 Unpacking; Getting set up. 1:11 - 2:01 Removing the hooks and chains. One chain is tangled inside. 2:01 - 4:12 Removing the movement from the case; removing the snagged chain. 4:12 - 6:25 Examining the dirty, oily movement. 6:25 - 8:25 Checking for worn pivot holes. 8:25 - 13:43 Removing most of the external levers, star wheel, pendulum leader, etc. 13:43 - 15:54 Fighting with the levers' compression clips (See a solution at ua-cam.com/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/v-deo.html) 15:54 - 17:04 Removing the last lever and gathering pallet. 17:04 - 26:44 Separating the plates; examining the wheels and anchor; removing hair from the wheels. 26:44 - 28:39 Evaluating the wear on the center wheel hole; explaining the center wheel functions. 28:39 - 29:31 Looking at how the perch is squeeze-fit into its mountings. 29:31 - 32:13 Wiping the plates before cleaning; Showing the dirt that stays inside the pivot holes. 32:13 - 34:49 Showing the oval worn pivot holes; Finishing wiping the plates. 34:49 - 35:39 Ultrasonic cleaning. 35:39 - 41:38 Cleaning the oil and residue off of the clock case. 41:38 - 42:51 After ultrasonic cleaning, some gunk remains inside the great wheels. 42:51 - 45:32 Cleaning the residue out of the great wheels. 45:32 - 46:52 Showing the crack in the plastic gear on the time train great wheel. 46:52 - 47:52 Cleaning the pinions of various wheels, using a toothpick. 47:52 - 49:08 Polishing the grooves out of the anchor pallets. 49:08 - 55:27 Testing the epoxy-repaired plastic gear; seeing that it snags (stops); testing again after filing and sanding. 55:27 - 1:00:11 The time train fails to run because of a worn escape wheel pivot hole; showing the worn hole; why you file the hole as part of bushing repair. 1:00:11 - 1:03:18 Brushing the case with boiled linseed oil; Wiping off the excess oil. 1:03:18 - 1:14:16 Bushing one pivot hole, in detail: filing, reaming, chamfering, selecting the replacement bushing, hammering the bushing into place, grinding down anf filing the bushing, polishing the plate, broaching with a cutting broach and oiled smoothing broach, testing the new pivot hole. 1:14:16 - 1:17:23 Testing the time train with the repaired pivot hole. 1:17:23 - 1:31:49 Bushing two more worn pivot holes; testing the repaired time train. 1:31:49 - 1:34:31 Examining the strike train pivot holes for wear; Checking the pivot holes' wear by tilting the wheels. 1:34:31 - 1:51:05 Bushing the strike train pivot holes. 1:51:05 - 1:52:39 Testing the repaired strike train. 1:52:39 - 1:54:52 Pegging the pivot holes with a toothpick, then brushing dust, etc. off the plates. 1:54:52 - 1:59:25 Reassembling the interior of the movement. 1:59:25 - 2:00:56 Closing the plates (briefly): Moving the pivots into their holes. 2:00:56 - 2:04:24 Oiling the movement. 2:04:24 - 2:07:58 Attaching the front and back parts: levers, star wheel, etc. 2:07:58 - 2:08:43 Testing the reattached bellows; finding the leather needs replacing. 2:08:43 - 2:17:24 Removing the old bellows leather; gluing the new material. 2:17:24 - 2:20:21 Putting the movement in the case: attaching the chains; attaching the movement 2:20:21 - 2:21:18 Finding the bird mount is broken. 2:21:18 - 2:21:44 Test running the movement without bellows. 2:21:44 - 2:28:57 Completing the repair of the bellows: gluing and coating the marbled paper; testing the bellows. 2:28:57 - 2:33:58 Attaching the bellows to the case and the movement. 2:33:58 - 2:35:38 Testing the bellows; adjusting the bellows wires. 2:35:38 - 2:36:49 Running the clock on a test stand. 2:36:49 - 2:37:06 The repaired clock, running on the wall.
Mr. Perry - I am a lover of clocks and marvel at your expertise and patience. Simply fascinating and thank you so much for sharing it with us. Good Luck and God bless you!
I really enjoy watching your videos! I’m self-taught, and also restore, clean, and service old clocks as a hobby every once and a while. I also modify and rebuild wooden clock cases too. I started doing this a little over 18 years ago. It all started when I took out a cheap 28 day Korean bim-bam movement from my late mother’s Waltham regulator clock,that I bought her back in the 80’s, and installed a German Hermle 340 single chime movement in its place by modifying it’s case. I bought this Hermle movement from the Emperor Clock Company in Fairhope, Alabama when it was still located there when I lived in Daphne, Alabama, just a few miles away. After I finished the major modification, I showed it to their clock horologist who was very impressed with my modifications, which made my day. I always enjoy learning new; old-school techniques that you show people how to do on your very informative videos. Keep up the good work!
I'm glad I found this channel! I've had my cuckoo clock going for many years, over 25. Then I recently purchased another one for my two-year-old grandson, cuz he likes to try to run and catch the cuckoo in and comes out! LOL. The one I bought for him looks a lot like this one, only it has a music box that place two songs. I had it sitting on the table with the chains drape down and my dog from under the table ran out and caught the chains and it fell on the floor! So I'm gluing it back the outside, and taking it apart on the inside And following videos to see if I might be able to get it going again. I paid 250 for it delivered, so paying for someone to fix it really isn't the bright idea. I really appreciate the videos, I might be able to do it with your help!
Oh my goodness! Fascinating and terrifying video. The hair and grease! My husband inherited his grandparents cuckoo clock. I have followed other videos and taken the works out and gently oiled as recommended on the tiny pins and wiped up the surplus. Reassembled several times. I think it will be just a pretty sill life. No way am I taking the works apart. Thank you for your video. At least I haven’t made things worse.
Hi Mr Perry. Thanks you so much for the video. I love the content and listening to your comments as you work on it. The descriptive analysis is loaded with information. That was the gunkiest clock work I've ever seen. Thanks again and have a happy day!
O.K. Just watched the entire video, I learned a great deal more than I knew this morning. While I'm re-doing this clock I'll also re-do the bellows. Thank you!
This is the video that helped us solve our problem with the music not starting on our clock! Thank you! The problem is that the cam on the main driveshaft (the thing that looks like a silver hurricane storm shape) isn't pushing up the arm enough to unlock the music mechanism to wait for the fan to become unblocked. The fan was unblocking like it was supposed to but the wheel was never unlocking because that arm that is pushed up by the hurricane cam didn't even touch it. Because we aren't as good at fixing them as you are, we just fabricated a 1mm spacer to make the arm actually hit the unlocking mechanism. We made it from a piece of aluminum can that we cut into a really small piece and glued it in place. Now the clock works! Except that I think we tightened the clock arms too tight and the hour hand moves too fast. The minute hand seems ok. I still have to figure that out. But all of the things it is supposed to do, gong, music, people dancing, cookoo...all of them work!
My regula movement 30 yo cuckoo stopped working so after watching your videos I opened it up. I had never oiled it so I bought some synth clock oil. Turns out there was a dead spider on the escapement. After cleaning I removed the old oil and relubed. I didn't take the movement out but did remove the hands and face. The pivots are a little hard to get to on the front....I hope I got them all. I did not oil the snail and rack mechanism. Anyway, clock is running great now. Thanks for the videos.
Good for you! Glad you got it back running. All the levers on the front make it hard to oil even when the movement is out of the case. That's why I oil the clock before I put the levers back on. Just keep working with it and, soon, you'll be taking it out of the case and giving it even more care. The spider is not unusual. Their webs can really cause problems. Reminds me, though, of when I was still teaching and fixing computers and printers for people in the school district and the local resource officer said his printer wasn't working. I went over to his office, pulled the top off and found a mouse nest with baby mice clogging up the ink carriage mechanism. Remove mice, printer works.
This is the one I watched with that awful clip they started to use on the levers. Thanks again on showing us the tool that takes those clips off in another video you made.
Yes, another wonderful gift from idiot industrial engineers. All they seem to be able to think about is saving time and money on manufacturing and to heck with the people who have to deal with their "innovative" changes. They saved a step in machining a groove on the arbors of the levers to accept an E-type clip and substituted the G-type compression clip. Saved the company money, but made it a pain in the rear for the people who have to work on them. Also, just passed the cost off to the repairmen that have to then buy another tool to deal with that clip. They pulled the same crap with the star wheel by making it a press-on part, saving the cost of drilling and tapping hole to accept a screw, again making repairs difficult. Of course, the harder it is to repair makes it more likely the clock shops just toss out the movement and replace it with a new one. Again, guess who makes more money and who gets to pay for it? Engineered obsolescence.
Thank you for the great video. I just attempting to repair my own clock, a Regula 25/1-M. It is a musical clock with children dancing on top. If you have a video on this I would greatly appreciate it. It has been stored away for over 10 years after one of my children bound it up some how. It is approximately 35 to 40 years old, given to us as a gift.
On cracked plastic gears I have had success with cleaning first. Then superglue in the crack. Clamp it to close the crack and hit it with zip kicker. Then polish the arbor slightly to reduce pressure but still snug. Then a touch of superglue on the arbor on both sides of the gear for insurance
Great video, I have been working on a cuckoo clock that looks just like then one you repaired. I was able to get it working -some lol, cuckoos (when manually turning the hands), pendulum swings but the hands do not move. will take it apart again to see what i have missed or over looked
If it has a plastic gear on the chain wheel, look to see if it's cracked and loose on the arbor. It's the gear that runs the motion works that makes the hands work.
@@dperry428 I took it back apart and i do think the plastic gear is the issue, I did not see a crack and it seemed tight enough on the shaft so I put it back together. both hands worked for about 25 mins then stopped. Guess i will have to get some parts and do it again. I do Thank You Sir for your Help
It depends on how dirty the case is. If there is no greasy dirt on it, a simple dusting with a brush suffices. Otherwise a household cleaner that cuts grease is used and then wiped off with damp cloth, dried and coated with a 50/50 solution of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wipe off any excess and allow to dry overnight.
Thank you for this video. My grandfather passed away and I am trying to restore his clock for my grandmother. It's this exact model (Regula 25 Cuckoo built in 72). There is a little play in the bushings but not as bad as the one in your video so I'm hoping to get away without needing to rebush anything since I don't have the equipment on hand for that. The bellows paper had completely disintegrated so I ordered some online to fix it but I was wondering about the marbled paper that you stuck on the outside of the pipes and on the top. I saw similar paper for sale on the site where I purchased the bellows paper but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what it's purpose was (the clock originally only appeared to have a little bit of red paper on the top, none around the sides of the pipes). Can you shed any light on what that paper's function is?
The paper is likely decorative, but I like to believe it also helps prevent eventual cracks in the wood from interfering with the whistle sound and keeps wood fibers from adding to the dust that collects in the movement. Of course, the paper on top of the bellows holds in the weight on the bellows top. I get my paper from doing a simple search for "marble" or "marbled paper" and then printing out the image that I like.
Great videos, air! There should be a “caution: this content can be habit-forming” To remove oils from otherwise bare wood: heat with hair dryer or heat gun. As the oils come to the surface, wipe away with clean dry white cotton cloth. Continue until oil no longer leaches from wood. While still warm, cover with 1/8-1/4 in. calcium carbonate (powdered chalk dust). Let sit 12-24 hrs. Or until powder has discolored with oil and tannins. Repeat as necessary.
I appreciate the method for removing oil from wood, with one caution. Many older clock cases were glued with hide glue, which is applied from a melting pot and heat will remelt and loosen the glued joints.
Hi, great video, very informative. Quick question, will there be an issue to do a preliminary cleaning with something like brake cleaner (a solvent like benzene or ether). And, what alternative oils can you use if you do not have access to proper watch oils?
A preliminary cleaning is helpful in diagnosing problems, especially with pivot holes encrusted with grime. The only thing to watch is that any solvents don't do harm to susceptible parts, such as plastic gears. Solvents also might not be good for clock hammers with plastic or leather inserts. As far as oils go, I won't make specific recommendations. That could bring a flurry of attacks from purists. The NAWCC forum is filled with threads full of virulent arguments over the use of various lubricants. mb.nawcc.org/threads/alternative-to-clock-oil.40105/ You can get clock oil from timesavers.com/search.html?q=oil&go=Search and they ship internationally if that's the problem.
I used to make a pattern when making them out of leather. Now, I just measure. You might like to read this NAWCC forum thread: mb.nawcc.org/threads/cuckoo-clock-bellows-material.97201/ Timesavers also sells precut material: timesavers.com/search.html?q=bellows+material
Hi Don. Thanks for the videos once again!!! I need to get cutting and smoothing pivot broaches. For the type of clocks like the one in this video, what size pivot broaches would you recommend to someone starting out? Thanks, Carlos
Buy what is close to the pivot sizes on the clocks you mostly work on. Cuckoo clocks second wheels are the ones most likely to need bushed. They vary, but can be 1 mm or 1.2 mm. Include those sizes in sets you buy. Look here: timesavers.com/search.html?q=broaches&go=Search
Thank you for this video Sir! Using your example I have taken apart the movement in my Regula 25. I have ordered an ultra sonic cleaner and some clock cleaning fluid (with ammonia). Will I have to lacquer the plates after cleaning? I had an issue with one of the front levers that goes through the movement and has a compression clamp at the back of the movement, the rod came out of the lever and the compression clamp stayed attached to the rod. It looks like I may be able to tap the rod back in to the lever, is that ok to do?
These plates are not lacquered, but if you want them to remain shiny, use nitrile or latex gloves when handling the movement. Over time fingerprints MAY appear on the plates, but, not real likely. I had to learn to deal with those clips, too. ua-cam.com/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/v-deo.html Yes, you can gently drive them back on.
Usually, emery buffs #4/0 and #6/0. timesavers.com/search.html?q=buff For finer clocks, I then use a burnisher and oil timesavers.com/i-8944717-twin-type-burnisher.html
Thank you Mr. Perry for another informative video. I watched the whole thing, (in a couple of sittings) LOL You do have the patience of Job! I have two cuckoo clocks both running fine. One is nearly 60 years old and has never needed any attention. I have always been fascinated with clocks ever since I was a young boy, so I have a fair collection of them! Just wondering, are you in the US or Canada? I am in British Columbia Canada. Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos for us. 👍🇨🇦
Hi Sir, love your work! Are you taking any more cuckoo clock repairs this year by chance? I have a smaller musical cuckoo with 2 doors (one has man on a perch and the other perch has a cuckoo bird). Movement is not stamped with anything but made in Germany US zone. Just inquiring if you would be interested in tackling this one. It seems to be keeping the time only.
No, I'm currently having some health problems and can't take on any more clocks. I have three to do and can't even get to them now. Your clock soiunds like one made just after the war. Worth getting fixed. If you don't find someone locally check back in a few months.
I have learned a ton from watching your videos! Can you give me a ball park idea of what bushing one should have on hand for repairing a movement like this? TNX
I use bushings from Butterworth Clocks in Muscatine, Iowa. butterworthclocks.com/ They come in different thicknesses and different bore size (hole in the center). I use 1.5mm thick bushings in .8mm, 1mm, 1.25mm, 1.5mm, 1.75mm, 2mm and 2.5mm. Larger than that, since they are rarely needed, I make my own on my lathe. The sizes I have have outside diameters (OD) of 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm and 4.5mm and 5mm. I have reamers that have matching sizes that are all .03mm smaller that the OD. For this movement, if I recall correctly, the size of the pivot for the second wheel,, which is the most often in need of bushing is about 1.2mm and the 1.25mm bore size works very well. When it is tapped into the reamed hole in the plate, the bore is slightly compressed and needs a minimum of broaching to bring it to perfect size.
Yes you do. Put all levers in position of being at stop, including the pin on the warning wheel against its lever. Then, put the gathering pallet on with the rider pin in the depression on the gathering pallet.
For these, I used very thin leather I got from ebay. Also available here: timesavers.com/i-8946487-leather-bellow-material.html Tyvek material: timesavers.com/search.html?q=bellows+material&go=Search
@@dperry428 okay cool thank you. One more question where did you find that decorative paper that you put on those bellows. I need some that are like a blue marble looking stuff
You can buy them here: timesavers.com/search.html?q=marble+paper&go=Search or do as I did and do a search for images of marble, find one you like, print it out and use it.
Hello, Mr. Perry! I just have a quick question. What is that tool you used to reduce the height of the new bushings? I file mine down by hand, but more often than not I mar the plate with my file then spend forever trying to buff the gash out. I know there are Bergeon bushing cutters that reduce the height but those are a bit out of my price range.
Rotary bit. Here's a search I just did. Find one or a set in your price range. Dremel makes some nice bits. www.google.com/search?q=rotary+bits&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiN1YuF7_PwAhWBXM0KHb5XA6QQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=694
Also, when using a file, cut a hole the size of the bushing in a piece of tape or thin plastic sheet and place it over the bushing. The tape or plastic protects the plate from scratches. In the old days, an old film negative was used by many.
@@dperry428 Thank you so much! I actually think I have a small rotary bit for my dremel. I'm not sure if it's big enough for bushings, but I'll check. I'll definitely use the tape next time I rebush. Thanks again!
Regula. Schmeckenbecher made the case and bought the movement from Regula. 25 is the model and is a one-day movement (needs weights pulled up daily). 79 is year of manufacture of the movement.
@@dperry428 thank you for the info. Trying to clean it now it's covered in nicotine and falling apart. My dad got it when he was in army stationed in Germany.
I have a cuckoo clock that is DESPERATE repair (3 weight, chain on left side, looking into clock from back, drops to floor gear won’t hold). I use to have a repairman but he retired and no one appears to know really how to REPAIR clocks. They just want to spray gear spray n say it is serviced. Do you do this type of work. Clock carvings are off as my husband dropped the clock and I had to glue carvings back together. Please let me know if you can help me.
I only work on clocks during wintertime. Wait until the end of October, make a comment on this video then that contains an email address. I hold comments for review. With an email address, I can contact you and delete the comment without its being published. We can then discuss your clock and, when I am assured you are reliable and not some internet kook, I'll arrange repair. I only take on a few clocks each year.
where can I get a birch and clutch assy for a regula 25-86, got it for my mom and she gave it back to me and it is not working, noticed after watching your informational videos about part of a regula coocoo clock that I was missing this assy.
Oil either the surface of face of the pallet or just the tips of a few teeth on the escape wheel. All you want is to reduce the sliding friction of the teeth tips on the pallet surfaces. NO excess oil or it attracts dirt.
@@dperry428 did that on one that had a slight rubbing noise coming from escape wheel and left my other ones dry, so i should probably go back and put a single drop of oil on one of the teeth and let it run to distribute it.
I noticed at 17:45 in taking off the nuts you used a pliers as I have also had to do. I would have thought that a metric nut driver would do the job. My 5mm is too small, my 6mm is too large. Even tried Today I put my Regula 25 back into the housing after cleaning and oiling it, put on the weights and pendulum. It would run for about 15 seconds and stop. I'm going try tweaking it side to side to get it in beat, if that doesn't work I'm going to take the entire thing apart as this video is demonstrating. Perhaps there is a broken part somewhere inside.
They make a 5.5mm nut driver. Movement could be out of beat. Ticks should be even. Also, make sure pendulum leader is not rubbing on the slot on the bottom of the case or is not in the center of the crutch. Otherwise, I'd look for badly worn pivot holes.
@@dperry428 Thank you. I'll look for the 5.5. Also, I'll check the leader and beat before I start to take it apart. I was going to do that tomorrow but if it works as it should I might be able to make it work. The problem might also have been in the bellows arms and the perch rod. I noticed the perch rod and a bellows rod jammed together when I started to take it out of the casing this evening.
I have a regula cuckoo clock and i have a problem is that the clock stops at 2 or 3 minutes before 12 and i move the minute clock hand and it offers some resistance to pass the 12 do you know what problem probarly it has? thanks the clock was oiled 2 years ago
There is not enough information to give a definitive answer. A few minutes before the hour is when the clock is going into warning in preparation for striking the hour. That is when the clock is under maximum power requirement as the lift on the center arbor is lifting the lever to set the strike. Something is robbing the clock of power to lift the lever and release the warning pin on the warning wheel. Either there is wear in the strike side gear train, likely the second wheel pivot holes, or something is dragging or snagging and taking too much power to overcome it. Without examining the clock, I can't tell you anything more than that.
dperry428 good morning. Still working on the Hubert herr 1 day. Had it apart and cleaned and back together. Keeps time and chimes. But I noticed that the rack finds it hard to drop onto the snail during the higher hours 7,8,9 etc. It looks like it snags a bit on the gathering pallet.its a strange problem. Mabye I wasn’t wary enough of the pallet position before disassemble. Going to take apart again and bush some holes anyway. Have you seen this problem before? Thanks again..
I know that clock shops generally don't repair the Regula movements. They can buy new ones to install for far less than what they would charge to repair the old ones. I don't do this as a business, so I don't set rates. I repair for the cost of parts and for a donation to our local food pantry. Looking at online repair shops, I've seen prices of $150 or so for basic cleaning and oiling, with additional charges for rebushing. I can purchase a 1-day Regula movement for less than $100. I also don't trust many so-called professional clock shops. I recently repaired a mantle clock for a local retirement home that had been "repaired" by a professional clock shop. The clock ran less than a year after the professional repair and then they had me look at it. The receipt for the professional repair was still inside the case and was for $425. When I looked tje movement over, it was clear to me that it had not even been cleaned; just oiled. There were worn bushings that needed replaced and were not. The movement had not even been taken apart. I repaired the clock for them and didn't charge anything, Instead, I told them it was my donation to the retirement home.
Wow! your videos have been a great help for me in getting my Moms regula25 Cuckoo running again. ty! Do you have any videos or advise in adjusting the beat? I have mine tilted a bit to get the perfect beat that runs great for 24 hours straight after repair but not sure if I need to adjust the movement in the case or if you can bend the lead or crutch to not adjust the movements orientation in the case. Again, TY for your videos!!!
The case should be level and, if it's out of beat (even ticking), then the crutch needs to be bent side to side until it's in beat. Bend the crutch toward the side of the swing that has the long tick a bit at a time until the ticks are even when the case is level. You can sometimes do that through the slot in the bottom of the case. If it doesn't work there, you'll need to take the clock off the wall, bend the crutch, put it back and level it. Repeat until it ticks evenly.
@dperry428 Ty! I was able to find alternate information that said same thing and did accomplish it. Again, ty for the fantastic videos and for your time and help :)
I have a new problem, my cuckoo has 2 doors and when the bird is singing AT THE SAME time the musical box from the other door starts to play how can i do to make that when the bird finish, LATER the music box plays
The mechanism for control of the music box varies from one model cuckoo to another, but essentially there is a lever that moves to interfere with the fan of the governor of the music box that holds the music box until the cuckoo finishes. It's out of adjustment. You'll have to study your particular movement to determine how to adjust the lever to the correct position. Without looking at the clock personally, I can't help you more than that.
You can if you like, but I wouldn't do it inside. Since I do most of my work in winter, I don't particularly want to go outside and I wouldn't consider using a volatile organic compound inside.
I watch these in order to learn how to work on various clocks. I find these explanations very helpful - I learn something new very time. Thanks for taking the time to post ! Is there any reason why shellac or Poly/Varnish should not be used to coat the inside of the case?
Shellac and varnish both sit on the surface as coatings, rely on absolutely clean surfaces for permanent adhesion and any oil and grease still on the surface risks creating a sticky gum that does not cure . Linseed oil penetrates the surface and goes into the pores of the wood and does not form a surface coating unless multiple applications are made. If you can assure the complete removal of grease and oil, there is no reason you cannot use shellac or varnish, except that they will not penetrate and act as a preservative. It's difficult to remove grease from wood without extensive use of degreasers, followed by rinsing the degreasers off with lots of water, followed by drying, all of which are not a good idea to do to a wooden clock case. Think warping and cracking. I just find linseed oil a good preservative that is much more reliable.
You're right that having a clock professionally repaired is expensive and learning to do it yourself is a good alternative. It is NOT always wise to buy a new movement if the clock is a collectible antique. Buying a new clock is an option, but does nothing to save the functionality of a collectible. As in this case, when the clock owner has a sentimental attachment from its being owned by a loved one, does replacing the movement keep it the same clock? Its like the story of the guy who says he has an ax that was owned and used by Abraham Lincoln and in telling its story, says the handle was replaced in 1910 and the ax head was replaced in 1960, but still claims the ax belonged to Lincoln.
An index for this video:
0:00 - 1:11 Unpacking; Getting set up.
1:11 - 2:01 Removing the hooks and chains. One chain is tangled inside.
2:01 - 4:12 Removing the movement from the case; removing the snagged chain.
4:12 - 6:25 Examining the dirty, oily movement.
6:25 - 8:25 Checking for worn pivot holes.
8:25 - 13:43 Removing most of the external levers, star wheel, pendulum leader, etc.
13:43 - 15:54 Fighting with the levers' compression clips (See a solution at ua-cam.com/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/v-deo.html)
15:54 - 17:04 Removing the last lever and gathering pallet.
17:04 - 26:44 Separating the plates; examining the wheels and anchor; removing hair from the wheels.
26:44 - 28:39 Evaluating the wear on the center wheel hole; explaining the center wheel functions.
28:39 - 29:31 Looking at how the perch is squeeze-fit into its mountings.
29:31 - 32:13 Wiping the plates before cleaning; Showing the dirt that stays inside the pivot holes.
32:13 - 34:49 Showing the oval worn pivot holes; Finishing wiping the plates.
34:49 - 35:39 Ultrasonic cleaning.
35:39 - 41:38 Cleaning the oil and residue off of the clock case.
41:38 - 42:51 After ultrasonic cleaning, some gunk remains inside the great wheels.
42:51 - 45:32 Cleaning the residue out of the great wheels.
45:32 - 46:52 Showing the crack in the plastic gear on the time train great wheel.
46:52 - 47:52 Cleaning the pinions of various wheels, using a toothpick.
47:52 - 49:08 Polishing the grooves out of the anchor pallets.
49:08 - 55:27 Testing the epoxy-repaired plastic gear; seeing that it snags (stops); testing again after filing and sanding.
55:27 - 1:00:11 The time train fails to run because of a worn escape wheel pivot hole; showing the worn hole; why you file the hole as part of bushing repair.
1:00:11 - 1:03:18 Brushing the case with boiled linseed oil; Wiping off the excess oil.
1:03:18 - 1:14:16 Bushing one pivot hole, in detail: filing, reaming, chamfering, selecting the replacement bushing, hammering the bushing into place, grinding down anf filing the bushing, polishing the plate, broaching with a cutting broach and oiled smoothing broach, testing the new pivot hole.
1:14:16 - 1:17:23 Testing the time train with the repaired pivot hole.
1:17:23 - 1:31:49 Bushing two more worn pivot holes; testing the repaired time train.
1:31:49 - 1:34:31 Examining the strike train pivot holes for wear; Checking the pivot holes' wear by tilting the wheels.
1:34:31 - 1:51:05 Bushing the strike train pivot holes.
1:51:05 - 1:52:39 Testing the repaired strike train.
1:52:39 - 1:54:52 Pegging the pivot holes with a toothpick, then brushing dust, etc. off the plates.
1:54:52 - 1:59:25 Reassembling the interior of the movement.
1:59:25 - 2:00:56 Closing the plates (briefly): Moving the pivots into their holes.
2:00:56 - 2:04:24 Oiling the movement.
2:04:24 - 2:07:58 Attaching the front and back parts: levers, star wheel, etc.
2:07:58 - 2:08:43 Testing the reattached bellows; finding the leather needs replacing.
2:08:43 - 2:17:24 Removing the old bellows leather; gluing the new material.
2:17:24 - 2:20:21 Putting the movement in the case: attaching the chains; attaching the movement
2:20:21 - 2:21:18 Finding the bird mount is broken.
2:21:18 - 2:21:44 Test running the movement without bellows.
2:21:44 - 2:28:57 Completing the repair of the bellows: gluing and coating the marbled paper; testing the bellows.
2:28:57 - 2:33:58 Attaching the bellows to the case and the movement.
2:33:58 - 2:35:38 Testing the bellows; adjusting the bellows wires.
2:35:38 - 2:36:49 Running the clock on a test stand.
2:36:49 - 2:37:06 The repaired clock, running on the wall.
Retired but still teaching, thank you! Love your work. Informative and educational.
Mr. Perry - I am a lover of clocks and marvel at your expertise and patience. Simply fascinating and thank you so much for sharing it with us. Good Luck and God bless you!
Thank you.
Another Master's Class from the Lead Doctor from the Cuckoo ICU Hospital! Excellent!
I really enjoy watching your videos! I’m self-taught, and also restore, clean, and service old clocks as a hobby every once and a while. I also modify and rebuild wooden clock cases too. I started doing this a little over 18 years ago. It all started when I took out a cheap 28 day Korean bim-bam movement from my late mother’s Waltham regulator clock,that I bought her back in the 80’s, and installed a German Hermle 340 single chime movement in its place by modifying it’s case. I bought this Hermle movement from the Emperor Clock Company in Fairhope, Alabama when it was still located there when I lived in Daphne, Alabama, just a few miles away. After I finished the major modification, I showed it to their clock horologist who was very impressed with my modifications, which made my day. I always enjoy learning new; old-school techniques that you show people how to do on your very informative videos. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad I found this channel! I've had my cuckoo clock going for many years, over 25. Then I recently purchased another one for my two-year-old grandson, cuz he likes to try to run and catch the cuckoo in and comes out! LOL. The one I bought for him looks a lot like this one, only it has a music box that place two songs. I had it sitting on the table with the chains drape down and my dog from under the table ran out and caught the chains and it fell on the floor! So I'm gluing it back the outside, and taking it apart on the inside And following videos to see if I might be able to get it going again. I paid 250 for it delivered, so paying for someone to fix it really isn't the bright idea. I really appreciate the videos, I might be able to do it with your help!
Good luck with it. Hope the videos help.
Oh my goodness! Fascinating and terrifying video. The hair and grease! My husband inherited his grandparents cuckoo clock. I have followed other videos and taken the works out and gently oiled as recommended on the tiny pins and wiped up the surplus. Reassembled several times. I think it will be just a pretty sill life. No way am I taking the works apart. Thank you for your video. At least I haven’t made things worse.
Just send it to him to fix it! The clock might be in a video! You'll be famous!
Hi Mr Perry. Thanks you so much for the video. I love the content and listening to your comments as you work on it. The descriptive analysis is loaded with information. That was the gunkiest clock work I've ever seen. Thanks again and have a happy day!
Want to see another really gunky one? Watch this one: ua-cam.com/video/kuzm97fhkkk/v-deo.html
O.K. Just watched the entire video, I learned a great deal more than I knew this morning. While I'm re-doing this clock I'll also re-do the bellows. Thank you!
Just found your channel - you're amazing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us.
Welcome!
Great video always good to see you work and bring back the clocks from the brink you have great skills thank you
Thank you so much for uploading this long and detailed video - I have the exact same Regula 25 mechanism - so this video is invaluable.
Glad it helped
Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
This is the video that helped us solve our problem with the music not starting on our clock! Thank you! The problem is that the cam on the main driveshaft (the thing that looks like a silver hurricane storm shape) isn't pushing up the arm enough to unlock the music mechanism to wait for the fan to become unblocked. The fan was unblocking like it was supposed to but the wheel was never unlocking because that arm that is pushed up by the hurricane cam didn't even touch it. Because we aren't as good at fixing them as you are, we just fabricated a 1mm spacer to make the arm actually hit the unlocking mechanism. We made it from a piece of aluminum can that we cut into a really small piece and glued it in place. Now the clock works! Except that I think we tightened the clock arms too tight and the hour hand moves too fast. The minute hand seems ok. I still have to figure that out. But all of the things it is supposed to do, gong, music, people dancing, cookoo...all of them work!
Can't knock it if it works!
really enjoy your videos. Great work !!!!!
Glad you like them!
My regula movement 30 yo cuckoo stopped working so after watching your videos I opened it up. I had never oiled it so I bought some synth clock oil. Turns out there was a dead spider on the escapement. After cleaning I removed the old oil and relubed. I didn't take the movement out but did remove the hands and face. The pivots are a little hard to get to on the front....I hope I got them all. I did not oil the snail and rack mechanism. Anyway, clock is running great now. Thanks for the videos.
Good for you! Glad you got it back running. All the levers on the front make it hard to oil even when the movement is out of the case. That's why I oil the clock before I put the levers back on. Just keep working with it and, soon, you'll be taking it out of the case and giving it even more care. The spider is not unusual. Their webs can really cause problems. Reminds me, though, of when I was still teaching and fixing computers and printers for people in the school district and the local resource officer said his printer wasn't working. I went over to his office, pulled the top off and found a mouse nest with baby mice clogging up the ink carriage mechanism. Remove mice, printer works.
Wow.
I should have watched it further!
You have bushings!!!
(so cool...)
brilliant, absolutely enjoyed this video.
Thanks for watching.
This is the one I watched with that awful clip they started to use on the levers. Thanks again on showing us the tool that takes those clips off in another video you made.
Yes, another wonderful gift from idiot industrial engineers. All they seem to be able to think about is saving time and money on manufacturing and to heck with the people who have to deal with their "innovative" changes. They saved a step in machining a groove on the arbors of the levers to accept an E-type clip and substituted the G-type compression clip. Saved the company money, but made it a pain in the rear for the people who have to work on them. Also, just passed the cost off to the repairmen that have to then buy another tool to deal with that clip. They pulled the same crap with the star wheel by making it a press-on part, saving the cost of drilling and tapping hole to accept a screw, again making repairs difficult. Of course, the harder it is to repair makes it more likely the clock shops just toss out the movement and replace it with a new one. Again, guess who makes more money and who gets to pay for it? Engineered obsolescence.
Thank you for the great video. I just attempting to repair my own clock, a Regula 25/1-M. It is a musical clock with children dancing on top. If you have a video on this I would greatly appreciate it. It has been stored away for over 10 years after one of my children bound it up some how. It is approximately 35 to 40 years old, given to us as a gift.
ua-cam.com/video/3xm2nwMfrA4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/h_3lSK0BDAQ/v-deo.html
On cracked plastic gears I have had success with cleaning first. Then superglue in the crack. Clamp it to close the crack and hit it with zip kicker. Then polish the arbor slightly to reduce pressure but still snug. Then a touch of superglue on the arbor on both sides of the gear for insurance
Excellent video
Great video, I have been working on a cuckoo clock that looks just like then one you repaired. I was able to get it working -some lol, cuckoos (when manually turning the hands), pendulum swings but the hands do not move. will take it apart again to see what i have missed or over looked
If it has a plastic gear on the chain wheel, look to see if it's cracked and loose on the arbor. It's the gear that runs the motion works that makes the hands work.
@@dperry428 I took it back apart and i do think the plastic gear is the issue, I did not see a crack and it seemed tight enough on the shaft so I put it back together. both hands worked for about 25 mins then stopped. Guess i will have to get some parts and do it again.
I do Thank You Sir for your Help
Here's the wheel you'll need if you want to replace it.
timesavers.com/i-24048497-regula-35-time-ratchet-wheel-for-1-day-cuckoo-movement.html
@@dperry428 Thank You, got the parts ordered
Hello Mr. Perry. Great video. I would like to know what product do you use to clean the case and to make it look so shiny. Thank you so much.
It depends on how dirty the case is. If there is no greasy dirt on it, a simple dusting with a brush suffices. Otherwise a household cleaner that cuts grease is used and then wiped off with damp cloth, dried and coated with a 50/50 solution of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wipe off any excess and allow to dry overnight.
Thank you for this video. My grandfather passed away and I am trying to restore his clock for my grandmother. It's this exact model (Regula 25 Cuckoo built in 72). There is a little play in the bushings but not as bad as the one in your video so I'm hoping to get away without needing to rebush anything since I don't have the equipment on hand for that. The bellows paper had completely disintegrated so I ordered some online to fix it but I was wondering about the marbled paper that you stuck on the outside of the pipes and on the top. I saw similar paper for sale on the site where I purchased the bellows paper but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what it's purpose was (the clock originally only appeared to have a little bit of red paper on the top, none around the sides of the pipes). Can you shed any light on what that paper's function is?
The paper is likely decorative, but I like to believe it also helps prevent eventual cracks in the wood from interfering with the whistle sound and keeps wood fibers from adding to the dust that collects in the movement. Of course, the paper on top of the bellows holds in the weight on the bellows top. I get my paper from doing a simple search for "marble" or "marbled paper" and then printing out the image that I like.
@@dperry428 Thanks, that makes sense. I didn't want to have to do a whole other order just for some fancy paper. I'll find a pattern and print some.
When I saw that mechanism, the first thought that came to mind was the Exxon Valdez.
great job brovo compliments
Great videos, air! There should be a “caution: this content can be habit-forming”
To remove oils from otherwise bare wood: heat with hair dryer or heat gun. As the oils come to the surface, wipe away with clean dry white cotton cloth. Continue until oil no longer leaches from wood. While still warm, cover with 1/8-1/4 in. calcium carbonate (powdered chalk dust). Let sit 12-24 hrs. Or until powder has discolored with oil and tannins. Repeat as necessary.
I appreciate the method for removing oil from wood, with one caution. Many older clock cases were glued with hide glue, which is applied from a melting pot and heat will remelt and loosen the glued joints.
Ви є добрий вчитель, практично все мені зрозуміло по діях ваших,хоча без мови,хай щастить
Hi, great video, very informative. Quick question, will there be an issue to do a preliminary cleaning with something like brake cleaner (a solvent like benzene or ether). And, what alternative oils can you use if you do not have access to proper watch oils?
A preliminary cleaning is helpful in diagnosing problems, especially with pivot holes encrusted with grime. The only thing to watch is that any solvents don't do harm to susceptible parts, such as plastic gears. Solvents also might not be good for clock hammers with plastic or leather inserts. As far as oils go, I won't make specific recommendations. That could bring a flurry of attacks from purists. The NAWCC forum is filled with threads full of virulent arguments over the use of various lubricants. mb.nawcc.org/threads/alternative-to-clock-oil.40105/
You can get clock oil from timesavers.com/search.html?q=oil&go=Search and they ship internationally if that's the problem.
Thanks for posting this video! Is there a cutting size pattern that you use for the replacement bellows?
I used to make a pattern when making them out of leather. Now, I just measure. You might like to read this NAWCC forum thread: mb.nawcc.org/threads/cuckoo-clock-bellows-material.97201/ Timesavers also sells precut material: timesavers.com/search.html?q=bellows+material
@@dperry428 Thanks for the links and Information.
Hi Don. Thanks for the videos once again!!!
I need to get cutting and smoothing pivot broaches.
For the type of clocks like the one in this video, what size pivot broaches would you recommend to someone starting out?
Thanks,
Carlos
Buy what is close to the pivot sizes on the clocks you mostly work on. Cuckoo clocks second wheels are the ones most likely to need bushed. They vary, but can be 1 mm or 1.2 mm. Include those sizes in sets you buy. Look here:
timesavers.com/search.html?q=broaches&go=Search
Thank you for this video Sir! Using your example I have taken apart the movement in my Regula 25. I have ordered an ultra sonic cleaner and some clock cleaning fluid (with ammonia). Will I have to lacquer the plates after cleaning? I had an issue with one of the front levers that goes through the movement and has a compression clamp at the back of the movement, the rod came out of the lever and the compression clamp stayed attached to the rod. It looks like I may be able to tap the rod back in to the lever, is that ok to do?
These plates are not lacquered, but if you want them to remain shiny, use nitrile or latex gloves when handling the movement. Over time fingerprints MAY appear on the plates, but, not real likely. I had to learn to deal with those clips, too.
ua-cam.com/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/v-deo.html Yes, you can gently drive them back on.
@@dperry428 Thank you Sir :)
Thanks for the fantastic video(s) Question: What do you use to polish the pivots. Thanks
Usually, emery buffs #4/0 and #6/0. timesavers.com/search.html?q=buff For finer clocks, I then use a burnisher and oil timesavers.com/i-8944717-twin-type-burnisher.html
Thank you Mr. Perry for another informative video.
I watched the whole thing, (in a couple of sittings) LOL
You do have the patience of Job!
I have two cuckoo clocks both running fine. One is nearly 60 years old and has never needed any attention. I have always been fascinated with clocks ever since I was a young boy, so I have a fair collection of them!
Just wondering, are you in the US or Canada? I am in British Columbia Canada. Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos for us. 👍🇨🇦
I live in the small town of Genoa, Illinois, USA.
@@dperry428 Awww cool, small world. My wife is from Genoa!!
@@vincentrose9060 I taught 8th grade science here from 1986 to 1992.
fantastic, you are my hero.
Hi Sir, love your work! Are you taking any more cuckoo clock repairs this year by chance? I have a smaller musical cuckoo with 2 doors (one has man on a perch and the other perch has a cuckoo bird). Movement is not stamped with anything but made in Germany US zone. Just inquiring if you would be interested in tackling this one. It seems to be keeping the time only.
No, I'm currently having some health problems and can't take on any more clocks. I have three to do and can't even get to them now. Your clock soiunds like one made just after the war. Worth getting fixed. If you don't find someone locally check back in a few months.
I have learned a ton from watching your videos! Can you give me a ball park idea of what bushing one should have on hand for repairing a movement like this?
TNX
I use bushings from Butterworth Clocks in Muscatine, Iowa. butterworthclocks.com/ They come in different thicknesses and different bore size (hole in the center). I use 1.5mm thick bushings in .8mm, 1mm, 1.25mm, 1.5mm, 1.75mm, 2mm and 2.5mm. Larger than that, since they are rarely needed, I make my own on my lathe. The sizes I have have outside diameters (OD) of 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm and 4.5mm and 5mm. I have reamers that have matching sizes that are all .03mm smaller that the OD. For this movement, if I recall correctly, the size of the pivot for the second wheel,, which is the most often in need of bushing is about 1.2mm and the 1.25mm bore size works very well. When it is tapped into the reamed hole in the plate, the bore is slightly compressed and needs a minimum of broaching to bring it to perfect size.
When you reinstall the gathering pallet, do you have to position it a certain way to get the timing right? Thanks!
Yes you do. Put all levers in position of being at stop, including the pin on the warning wheel against its lever. Then, put the gathering pallet on with the rider pin in the depression on the gathering pallet.
@@dperry428 Thanks Mr Perry!
Hi Mr. Perry I had a question where did you get that paper you put on those wind pipes? I need some for my cuckoo Clock that I am restoring.
For these, I used very thin leather I got from ebay. Also available here: timesavers.com/i-8946487-leather-bellow-material.html Tyvek material: timesavers.com/search.html?q=bellows+material&go=Search
@@dperry428 okay cool thank you. One more question where did you find that decorative paper that you put on those bellows. I need some that are like a blue marble looking stuff
You can buy them here: timesavers.com/search.html?q=marble+paper&go=Search or do as I did and do a search for images of marble, find one you like, print it out and use it.
@@dperry428 thank you so much sir
You're welcome. Good luck with your project.
Hello, Mr. Perry! I just have a quick question. What is that tool you used to reduce the height of the new bushings? I file mine down by hand, but more often than not I mar the plate with my file then spend forever trying to buff the gash out. I know there are Bergeon bushing cutters that reduce the height but those are a bit out of my price range.
Rotary bit. Here's a search I just did. Find one or a set in your price range. Dremel makes some nice bits. www.google.com/search?q=rotary+bits&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiN1YuF7_PwAhWBXM0KHb5XA6QQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=694
Also, when using a file, cut a hole the size of the bushing in a piece of tape or thin plastic sheet and place it over the bushing. The tape or plastic protects the plate from scratches. In the old days, an old film negative was used by many.
@@dperry428 Thank you so much! I actually think I have a small rotary bit for my dremel. I'm not sure if it's big enough for bushings, but I'll check. I'll definitely use the tape next time I rebush. Thanks again!
Agula e schmeckenbecher 25-79 made in west germany cuckoo clock was left to me by my dad I'm hoping to fix it.
Regula. Schmeckenbecher made the case and bought the movement from Regula. 25 is the model and is a one-day movement (needs weights pulled up daily). 79 is year of manufacture of the movement.
@@dperry428 thank you for the info. Trying to clean it now it's covered in nicotine and falling apart. My dad got it when he was in army stationed in Germany.
Jeeze, the clock looks like it was fished out of the Gulf of Mexico during the BP spill....
I have a cuckoo clock that is DESPERATE repair (3 weight, chain on left side, looking into clock from back, drops to floor gear won’t hold). I use to have a repairman but he retired and no one appears to know really how to REPAIR clocks. They just want to spray gear spray n say it is serviced. Do you do this type of work. Clock carvings are off as my husband dropped the clock and I had to glue carvings back together. Please let me know if you can help me.
I only work on clocks during wintertime. Wait until the end of October, make a comment on this video then that contains an email address. I hold comments for review. With an email address, I can contact you and delete the comment without its being published. We can then discuss your clock and, when I am assured you are reliable and not some internet kook, I'll arrange repair. I only take on a few clocks each year.
where can I get a birch and clutch assy for a regula 25-86, got it for my mom and she gave it back to me and it is not working, noticed after watching your informational videos about part of a regula coocoo clock that I was missing this assy.
You'll have to do a better job of explaining what you are missing. I have never heard of a "birch and clutch assy".
@@dperry428 well its the piece that hooks the the pendullum assy inside the coocoo clock
i.imgur.com/5AClRa0.png
timesavers.com/search.html?q=regula+25+verge&go=Search
verge and crutch
for the escape wheel teeth the debate is whether to very lightly oil or not. depends on who you talk to.
Oil either the surface of face of the pallet or just the tips of a few teeth on the escape wheel. All you want is to reduce the sliding friction of the teeth tips on the pallet surfaces. NO excess oil or it attracts dirt.
@@dperry428 did that on one that had a slight rubbing noise coming from escape wheel and left my other ones dry, so i should probably go back and put a single drop of oil on one of the teeth and let it run to distribute it.
Best to put it on the pallets; that way just the tips of the teeth that touch the pallets will be oiled.
I noticed at 17:45 in taking off the nuts you used a pliers as I have also had to do. I would have thought that a metric nut driver would do the job. My 5mm is too small, my 6mm is too large. Even tried Today I put my Regula 25 back into the housing after cleaning and oiling it, put on the weights and pendulum. It would run for about 15 seconds and stop. I'm going try tweaking it side to side to get it in beat, if that doesn't work I'm going to take the entire thing apart as this video is demonstrating. Perhaps there is a broken part somewhere inside.
They make a 5.5mm nut driver. Movement could be out of beat. Ticks should be even. Also, make sure pendulum leader is not rubbing on the slot on the bottom of the case or is not in the center of the crutch. Otherwise, I'd look for badly worn pivot holes.
@@dperry428 Thank you. I'll look for the 5.5. Also, I'll check the leader and beat before I start to take it apart. I was going to do that tomorrow but if it works as it should I might be able to make it work. The problem might also have been in the bellows arms and the perch rod. I noticed the perch rod and a bellows rod jammed together when I started to take it out of the casing this evening.
I have a regula cuckoo clock and i have a problem is that the clock stops at 2 or 3 minutes before 12 and i move the minute clock hand and it offers some resistance to pass the 12 do you know what problem probarly it has? thanks the clock was oiled 2 years ago
There is not enough information to give a definitive answer. A few minutes before the hour is when the clock is going into warning in preparation for striking the hour. That is when the clock is under maximum power requirement as the lift on the center arbor is lifting the lever to set the strike. Something is robbing the clock of power to lift the lever and release the warning pin on the warning wheel. Either there is wear in the strike side gear train, likely the second wheel pivot holes, or something is dragging or snagging and taking too much power to overcome it. Without examining the clock, I can't tell you anything more than that.
Do you recommend polishing pivots in a regular hand drill? Clamped in vice .
If you don't have a lathe, that's an alternative. Use a variable speed if possible to keep the speed low. High speed is asking for trouble.
dperry428 thanks for all replies. Stuck in hospital as the wife is having a baby.
Watching your videos to pass the time.
👍🏻
Congratulations. Is this your first?
dperry428 yes the first. Can’t leave the room with the lockdown.
Thanks
dperry428 good morning. Still working on the Hubert herr 1 day. Had it apart and cleaned and back together. Keeps time and chimes. But I noticed that the rack finds it hard to drop onto the snail during the higher hours 7,8,9 etc.
It looks like it snags a bit on the gathering pallet.its a strange problem. Mabye I wasn’t wary enough of the pallet position before disassemble. Going to take apart again and bush some holes anyway.
Have you seen this problem before?
Thanks again..
Use snap ring pliers on those clips on the back
ua-cam.com/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/v-deo.htmlsi=PLDEGu_nbD5Hn5kj
Should I remove weights from cuckoo clock if it is not running. I have 3 clocks one is running and 2 is stopped
There is no reason to do so. Better to leave them with the clocks, else they get lost.
Would you be willing to share how much a repair like this would cost? I just bought a cuckoo clock myself so I'm kinda new to this world
I know that clock shops generally don't repair the Regula movements. They can buy new ones to install for far less than what they would charge to repair the old ones. I don't do this as a business, so I don't set rates. I repair for the cost of parts and for a donation to our local food pantry. Looking at online repair shops, I've seen prices of $150 or so for basic cleaning and oiling, with additional charges for rebushing. I can purchase a 1-day Regula movement for less than $100. I also don't trust many so-called professional clock shops. I recently repaired a mantle clock for a local retirement home that had been "repaired" by a professional clock shop. The clock ran less than a year after the professional repair and then they had me look at it. The receipt for the professional repair was still inside the case and was for $425. When I looked tje movement over, it was clear to me that it had not even been cleaned; just oiled. There were worn bushings that needed replaced and were not. The movement had not even been taken apart. I repaired the clock for them and didn't charge anything, Instead, I told them it was my donation to the retirement home.
Do 1500 et weights go on 1 day or 8 day cuckoo clocks?
What is "et"? 1500 gram weights go on 8 day clocks. 1 day clocks are 250 to 350 or so grams.
Wow! your videos have been a great help for me in getting my Moms regula25 Cuckoo running again. ty! Do you have any videos or advise in adjusting the beat? I have mine tilted a bit to get the perfect beat that runs great for 24 hours straight after repair but not sure if I need to adjust the movement in the case or if you can bend the lead or crutch to not adjust the movements orientation in the case. Again, TY for your videos!!!
The case should be level and, if it's out of beat (even ticking), then the crutch needs to be bent side to side until it's in beat.
Bend the crutch toward the side of the swing that has the long tick a bit at a time until the ticks are even when the case is level. You can sometimes do that through the slot in the bottom of the case. If it doesn't work there, you'll need to take the clock off the wall, bend the crutch, put it back and level it. Repeat until it ticks evenly.
@dperry428 Ty! I was able to find alternate information that said same thing and did accomplish it. Again, ty for the fantastic videos and for your time and help :)
2 HOURS AND 37 MINUTES!! OH MY!! OH THE PATIENCE...I CAN LEARN THAT FROM YOU
I tried to leave as much in the video as possible. It's below zero here today. If I dare to go out, I'm mailing this back to you today.
I have a new problem, my cuckoo has 2 doors and when the bird is singing AT THE SAME time the musical box from the other door starts to play how can i do to make that when the bird finish, LATER the music box plays
The mechanism for control of the music box varies from one model cuckoo to another, but essentially there is a lever that moves to interfere with the fan of the governor of the music box that holds the music box until the cuckoo finishes. It's out of adjustment. You'll have to study your particular movement to determine how to adjust the lever to the correct position. Without looking at the clock personally, I can't help you more than that.
GOODๆ👍ดีเยี่ยม👍💖
They make snap ring pliers that would make removing them very easy.
Yep! Like these. ua-cam.com/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/v-deo.html
Why can you use a cleaner like a carburetor cleaner to get some of the grimes out?
You can if you like, but I wouldn't do it inside. Since I do most of my work in winter, I don't particularly want to go outside and I wouldn't consider using a volatile organic compound inside.
I watch these in order to learn how to work on various clocks. I find these explanations very helpful - I learn something new very time. Thanks for taking the time to post ! Is there any reason why shellac or Poly/Varnish should not be used to coat the inside of the case?
Shellac and varnish both sit on the surface as coatings, rely on absolutely clean surfaces for permanent adhesion and any oil and grease still on the surface risks creating a sticky gum that does not cure . Linseed oil penetrates the surface and goes into the pores of the wood and does not form a surface coating unless multiple applications are made. If you can assure the complete removal of grease and oil, there is no reason you cannot use shellac or varnish, except that they will not penetrate and act as a preservative. It's difficult to remove grease from wood without extensive use of degreasers, followed by rinsing the degreasers off with lots of water, followed by drying, all of which are not a good idea to do to a wooden clock case. Think warping and cracking. I just find linseed oil a good preservative that is much more reliable.
🤩🤩🤩
Have exact movement but definitely way cleaner than this.
ممتاز شيئ جميل جدا انا اعشق ساعات الكوكو اﻻلمانية
That translated as "German coke watches". Then I realized it was "German cuckoo clocks"
I guess you could call that a goo-koo clock
You are funny!
Half of my dogs (rest in peace) accumulated in my clock. STAY AWAY FROM WD40 PEOPLE!
good resting place for beloved pets! Clocks may not appreciated it though.
That is the worst I have ever seen... you keep your calm well...
✌💞✨😊
It looks like 30-years of cigarette smoke, pan frying, and cat hair in that clock.
yeah that thing was NASTY inside wow
That is the filthiest cuckoo clock I have ever seen, both in my own experience and those seen on UA-cam.
Clock repair is so freaking expensive, better to learn how to do maintenance or just buy a new MOVEMENT or clock.
You're right that having a clock professionally repaired is expensive and learning to do it yourself is a good alternative. It is NOT always wise to buy a new movement if the clock is a collectible antique. Buying a new clock is an option, but does nothing to save the functionality of a collectible. As in this case, when the clock owner has a sentimental attachment from its being owned by a loved one, does replacing the movement keep it the same clock? Its like the story of the guy who says he has an ax that was owned and used by Abraham Lincoln and in telling its story, says the handle was replaced in 1910 and the ax head was replaced in 1960, but still claims the ax belonged to Lincoln.
Cuckoo clock ki body chahie mil Jayegi kya
इसका कोई अर्थ नहीं निकलता
Jawab dijiyega aap Hamen
यदि आप कोई प्रश्न पूछते हैं, तो मैं उत्तर दूंगा
Quite the dirtiest clock I have seen. I didn't think cuckoo's made nests. The clock obviously lived in a very hairy environment.
When I used to repair computers and printers, I once found a mouse nest with 3 baby mice in it inside a printer.