It's looking awesome buddy it's starting to come together. Yeah Chris and pop's doing an awesome job on that factory stock. Yea a&a manufacturing is it Michigan I believe it's spring lake Michigan they're about an hour from me I bought in some stuff from them here last year for my chaissie they make some awesome Parts just about anything you could want. But keep up the good work Buddy looking forward to your next video take care
It just a completely different style. When I did the full down legs, they work and they are not that hard to do but I started questioning if the bend itself created a fail point that would not exist in a car with a joint there. I don't think its an issue when you have double tubes at every corner but with singles it might be an inferior method from a strength standpoint.
You are spot-on with too stiff chassis deal. I built many dirt cars over the years and I've come to the same conclusion. And, imo, an X isn't necessary in most places as the other bar is redundant. I've also gone to a "Petty" bar that I actually splice and run an inside sleeve that is a greased joint that allows the front half of the car to twist but is solid under compression forces. Something to think about, lol. Sandy Sanders.
I have heard of this elusive "one way Petty bar" before. the way it was explained to me was, You leave like a 1/2" gap on the end of the inside tube so it never hits unless you get in a bad wreck and in that case it springs up to it but when it bottoms out it helps protect the driver from a fold in and save the frame.
@DIRTRACELIFE ,right idea but I don't leave the 1/2 inch gap. A grease zero and a few thousands clearance is enough. I also have options to run a bolt thru it to lock it up.
I think you are technically correct. I believe the same thing as well but I am starting to think what it gives on the track in making the car more forgiving and willing to stay hooked up is outweighing that. We will see. . . .
What do you think about coming from the top of the left side rear hoop to the right side rear frame rail, and left side rear frame rail to the top of the right rear hoop. Your making a X to stiffen up rear frame. If you want more stiffness. Drop it down to the center more. Rear of top left door bar to right rear, rear of top right side door bar to left rear.
@@DIRTRACELIFE My metal guy dropped the ball on me and didn’t order floor pan material. I had hoped to have it done today. Next week it’ll be headed to powdercoat for sure!!
That top door bar being straight is not a good idea. Needs to have some sort of bend in it bc a straight bar will bend was easier than a bent one. Nice to see you doing it all yourself like the old days
Yes, planning on doing that triangle on the front. Those brackets are big for sure but they are also taking the place of where I would normally do an A tower. They serve to create the stability for the shock mount point and lock in the bay bar. so your adding lbs for sure but there are some other tubes that normally would be there that I plan to not do. Overall, I think I am adding 5 or 10 lbs but think its likely worth it.
The main hoop section of the cage is going to be STIFF... you won't have very much, if any flex in that chassis... i build my chassis to have a little flex in the rear section... 'kinda' acts like a torsion bar.. and with Docol tubing, it's a very nice combination.
Main hoop is for sure enough. Car won't have much tortional strength but I am taking that risk on purpose to make it easier to drive. and yeah that docol has ridiculous ability to spring
If you just go straight down to the floor then it will just push the floor tube out the bottom of the car in a flip. theres no strength in the direction it will push unless you add more tubes some kind of way down there.
It looks a bit decieving right now. The cage has quite a bit of offset in it and I measured my other cars from where the shoulder containment to the tube is to make sure it had as much room. The next 2 bars down will have a kick out. it will make a triangle shap top to bottom
@@DIRTRACELIFE glad it is working out.. Hope I am not getting on your nerves.. lol.. I can't wait to see the finished product.. I really think shortening the wheelbase will help your car turn better.
I'm concerned your repeating mistakes from the last car. Your building a car with durability as the priority over speed. That feels like a piece of the trap that left you with a very stiff car last time
Definitely different in regard to ability to flex and will have significantly more torsional flex. when you start sacrificing driver compartment safety though its time to stop racing.
Me personally I’d rather have a car that lasted a whole season and ran top 5 anywhere I go then a car that win a few races then get totaled in a minor incident .. I think this is gonna be a good car
Jason I love how you explained that the frame mounts should STAY! Everything else should bend around them..👍👍 Solid advice💸
Absolutely
It starting to come together!!! Looks killer!! A&A are life savers! I made another order with them yesterday!! Keep on keeping on brother!
I'm catching up with yall
@@DIRTRACELIFE Yes sir!! I like it!! Putting in work!! Maybe we can all show up and test and the same track one night.
It's looking awesome buddy it's starting to come together. Yeah Chris and pop's doing an awesome job on that factory stock. Yea a&a manufacturing is it Michigan I believe it's spring lake Michigan they're about an hour from me I bought in some stuff from them here last year for my chaissie they make some awesome Parts just about anything you could want. But keep up the good work Buddy looking forward to your next video take care
Thanks Rick
Whats the reason for the 2 piece front cage legs?
Over a single bent 45 degree piece from halo to the frame?
Great content👍
It just a completely different style. When I did the full down legs, they work and they are not that hard to do but I started questioning if the bend itself created a fail point that would not exist in a car with a joint there. I don't think its an issue when you have double tubes at every corner but with singles it might be an inferior method from a strength standpoint.
Looking good Jason you keep it up like this your gonna have a race car before you know it.
Right now I am lovin this snow and cold. Wifey dont want to go anywhere so I get to stay in shop and build build build!
You are spot-on with too stiff chassis deal. I built many dirt cars over the years and I've come to the same conclusion. And, imo, an X isn't necessary in most places as the other bar is redundant. I've also gone to a "Petty" bar that I actually splice and run an inside sleeve that is a greased joint that allows the front half of the car to twist but is solid under compression forces. Something to think about, lol. Sandy Sanders.
I have heard of this elusive "one way Petty bar" before. the way it was explained to me was, You leave like a 1/2" gap on the end of the inside tube so it never hits unless you get in a bad wreck and in that case it springs up to it but when it bottoms out it helps protect the driver from a fold in and save the frame.
@DIRTRACELIFE ,right idea but I don't leave the 1/2 inch gap. A grease zero and a few thousands clearance is enough. I also have options to run a bolt thru it to lock it up.
Coming together looks great!!
Thank you sir
I'm glad you decided to do this and also I thought I was the only person that did the tape trick 😅
Yep, I will pull tape all over the place LOL
More flex seems to make adjustments less predictable.
I think you are technically correct. I believe the same thing as well but I am starting to think what it gives on the track in making the car more forgiving and willing to stay hooked up is outweighing that. We will see. . . .
What do you think about coming from the top of the left side rear hoop to the right side rear frame rail, and left side rear frame rail to the top of the right rear hoop. Your making a X to stiffen up rear frame. If you want more stiffness. Drop it down to the center more. Rear of top left door bar to right rear, rear of top right side door bar to left rear.
Seems like the full hoop height X is probably the best. there is no right or wrong but I definitely didn't like the first mock up I did LOL
we got to hurrry chris. dukes is rollin
I’m trying. I’m trying!! Lol.
Thats what I was saying 😉
@@DIRTRACELIFE My metal guy dropped the ball on me and didn’t order floor pan material. I had hoped to have it done today. Next week it’ll be headed to powdercoat for sure!!
Still no shoulder room on the left side door bars with the straight tube
Plenty of room. I am measuring everything and it has just as much as my Crush. Keep in mind that driverside is offset ALOT.
Good deal Jason, I was worried it would be tight
@@DIRTRACELIFE
I would bend the tubes out then back in for the driver side door bars so that if it ever bends it doesn’t buckle towards you like a straight bar will.
Yes, the center two I plan to make like that, not sure about the bottom one yet.
That top door bar being straight is not a good idea. Needs to have some sort of bend in it bc a straight bar will bend was easier than a bent one. Nice to see you doing it all yourself like the old days
Triangle you front down bars to your door bars. What is the benefits of the huge control arm brackets? Seems like a lot of unnecessary weight.
Yes, planning on doing that triangle on the front.
Those brackets are big for sure but they are also taking the place of where I would normally do an A tower. They serve to create the stability for the shock mount point and lock in the bay bar. so your adding lbs for sure but there are some other tubes that normally would be there that I plan to not do. Overall, I think I am adding 5 or 10 lbs but think its likely worth it.
What do you think about the cars full Speedway man sold to development? There ain't no clarksville speedway up or anymore
Not sure exactly what you are referring to. can you explain a bit more and I will probably catch up 😉
What welder do you have?
Thats a Vulcan Omnipro, Its pretty decent but I am ready for something better.
The main hoop section of the cage is going to be STIFF... you won't have very much, if any flex in that chassis... i build my chassis to have a little flex in the rear section... 'kinda' acts like a torsion bar.. and with Docol tubing, it's a very nice combination.
Main hoop is for sure enough. Car won't have much tortional strength but I am taking that risk on purpose to make it easier to drive.
and yeah that docol has ridiculous ability to spring
Lookin good buddy!!
Thanks 👍
Hey Jason why didn’t you take the front down pipe for the A Pilar right from the halo down to the frame is there a benefit of doing it your way
If you just go straight down to the floor then it will just push the floor tube out the bottom of the car in a flip. theres no strength in the direction it will push unless you add more tubes some kind of way down there.
Seems all the newer chassis are built this way
Looks to me that the top drivers door bar is going to be close to your shoulder.. I feel curved door bars would be better
It looks a bit decieving right now. The cage has quite a bit of offset in it and I measured my other cars from where the shoulder containment to the tube is to make sure it had as much room. The next 2 bars down will have a kick out. it will make a triangle shap top to bottom
@@DIRTRACELIFE glad it is working out.. Hope I am not getting on your nerves.. lol.. I can't wait to see the finished product.. I really think shortening the wheelbase will help your car turn better.
Not at all Sam, Trust me I pay attention to the comments and have double checked/fixed a lot of things that would have been wrong because of it.
@@DIRTRACELIFE you are going to have a good car when done when is your next video
Should have it out tomorrow Sam :)
Looks good Jason still racing factory stock?
Oh yeah, planning to start the new body on the camaro as soon as we get done stripping the Crush and get it out of the shop.
I'm concerned your repeating mistakes from the last car. Your building a car with durability as the priority over speed. That feels like a piece of the trap that left you with a very stiff car last time
Definitely different in regard to ability to flex and will have significantly more torsional flex. when you start sacrificing driver compartment safety though its time to stop racing.
Me personally I’d rather have a car that lasted a whole season and ran top 5 anywhere I go then a car that win a few races then get totaled in a minor incident .. I think this is gonna be a good car