I use a 2001 every day at work; we have several of them on the shelf. The maddening part is that my company has lawyers who have convinced them they *have* to recycle everything rather than sell it or give it to the employees, to avoid some kind of lawsuit. So the only way to rescue something like this is to sneak it out of the recycle bin without getting caught. Fortunately, my new boss is a man after my own heart when it comes to this policy, but still, *so* much beautiful equipment gets trashed, it's heartbreaking.
I hope one day he does a video on his camera equipment and comments on where he learned his technique's (in my travels, next to the Japanese, the people in Germany are generally well studied in their camera use). FWIW: A huge tech channel list is here: ( www.eevblog.com/forum/other-blog-specific/a/ )
I'd be interested in such a video too, or perhaps a lab tour. Thanks for the link, quite a comprehensive list. I know some of the more popular channels, but there are some interesting ones I haven't heard of.
Not only do you work according to "MY set of rules," [i.e., you're not cheaping out], you have a drole sense of humor which I totally appreciate! Bravo!
Judging by the attention you’ve devoted to Keithley instruments I think you have the same affinity to them as I have for Advantest and a few other Japanese manufacturers. While I’m (slowly...) acquiring the parts and related ancillary to repair my 8 1/2 digit Advantest multimeter, including eprom firmware thanks to the kindness of another owner of the R6871-E, your videos keep me entertained and at least mentally involved in the repair process. Great job, Thank you!
Having 7.5 digits is not just about "accuracy". There are situations where absolute accuracy is immaterial, but the resolution still matters. I operate a modest size server farm with a UPS that uses massive gel batteries. These age over time and the only way to monitor the aging is to track changes in discharge rates as the batteries age. The batteries were sized to provide 16 hours of continuous power reserve. This means that measuring the discharge rate is difficult if the time periods are of the order of one minute or two or even three. You can't get an accurate delta V. With a five or six-digit meter, I'm forced to wait a long time before I can get enough digits of change to claim a scientifically valid measurement. But I don't want the UPS running for 30 minutes just for the sake of measuring aging. I want to measure discharge for just a couple of minutes and then return to utility power. When I changed from a Keithley 2000 to a Keithley 2010, the measurement period shortened dramatically, thanks to that additional digit of resolution. Again, the absolute accuracy of the measurement was unimportant. Was the voltage truly 27.48822 ? That's immaterial. As long as repeatability and resolution are reliable and I could time how long it took to drop by 5000µV. A used 2010 delivers this short measurement period, even five years since the last NIST-traceable calibration. Wow. I just checked eBay for models 2001 and even 2010. Shocked at what they're fetching, even for parts/salvage. Three years ago, I scored the 2010 (working fine) for $500 (on eBay) after an Arizona solar panel company went belly up and liquidated all their lab gear.
Nice, I had my eyes open for a while for a cheap 6.5 digit (or higher) meter, nothing I saw was cheap ! in the end I purchased a new siglent 3065X as it was only about twice the price of what I could find, and without the risk of not being able to repair it if something major was wrong.
Papst wouldn't had been good enough? A 2002 would be an incredible step up. It's also the most compact 8.5-digit multimeter on the market, at least that I know of.
...An additional detail: On a high resolution / precision multimeter do NOT touch any analog board / measuring component with your bare hands. Touching these components may result in deposits from your hands that will affect calibration.
In RGB mode the FLIR sensor auto scales the image data. It's raw form is a 10bit greyscale image, in which you might have been able to see some change in your throat temperature, although I suspect it may be unlikely, given how important the neck is to the body.
I have a model 2000 which requires a shunt connection (and a jumper) to run the tests. Surprised to see that the 2001 did not need these. Or, is there a more comprehensive test that the 2001 can run using the shunt and jumper?
Hum. I like the resolution, but resolving the unit to get it to resolve digits seems like a considerable bit of work. Maybe I'll stick with my HP3456A 6-digit meters. I've got four of them and I think all I've had to replace are a couple of failed power caps that screwed up the AC measurement abilities.
The guys from the PTB at the Makerfaire could only calibrate resistance up to 20K Ohms for instance. That was a bit dissapointing when I was there last time...
Hey...Do you think you might do an OLED replacement for the worn out VFD ?....I have a 2400 that is in dire need...guess how much a new VFD is...600 some dollars?
Awesome video as always! Please do more of these repairing videos with schematic explanaition! We can learn a lot from them! By the way, why do you need 2 peaces of Keithley to your lab?
Hi Marco, I'm really impressed by your "interdisciplinary proficiency" what's your study background? Where did you learn so much about electronics I mean? Very good contents as always!
Kennst du das Problem: die Anzeige geht im DC/AC-Bereich nicht auf Null. Z.B. im 2V-B. werden ohne Messkabel ca 50mV angezeigt. Referenz-u. Integrationskondensator sind OK. AD-Chip ist Maxim 7129.
Woah... you "two soldering iron trick" is a brilliant idea... one of those really obvious things that I should have thought of on my own... but didn't.... Excellent! Replacing a vacuum florescent display with an OLED.... no... that is nothing but blasphemy!
Hi from Italy. I used until last day for my hobby of electronics and Hi Fi, a very old KEITLEY 2001, bought in a vintage fair, have twenty years or more. Due to an wrong movement, the instrument fell down from table. Several parts of plastic cabinet are broken, these aren't a problem because I have find a new cabinet in INTERNET. The main problem is that now the istrument don't receive the main commands from operator panel, expecially the front or rear inputs. Could you help me? Thanks in advancing.
Moin Marco, how are you doing? Have you thought about the display replacement? I have a K2000 and my VFD is making high pitch noise which means - I guess - the VFD is fucked. Since a replacement is hilariously expensive an LCD is at least a remotely senseful (lol) option. The key interface from the front panel is according to the service manual "proprietary" so the MC on the front panel has to stay where it is. The VFD drivers have a serial input and maybe the protocal can be reverse enginerded from the datasheet of those. All the little "announciators" around the alpha numeric part of the VFD are my biggest concern since they just disappear unless one makes their own LCD or uses a complex high pixel density LCD which probably needs special drivers and interface. Let me know what you think, Cheers
Yeh, it's not a sunday afternoon kind of job, but I think with a logic analyer one might be able reverse engineer the communication and just display the appropriate things on a high-red lcd ... For the high pitch noise, have you checked the high voltage module already? Replace cap, dip transformer in polyurethane?
Marco Reps Hey, thanks for the reply. Yes it will be a proper project thing. I think it's best to go into the serial comms between the front panel MCU and the HV drivers for the display so the keypad and communication to the main processor is still original. I actually just right now kinda fixed/bodged the problem, I guess. Hope no explosions follow! I changed all (? seven) electrolytic caps and none of them was leaking, what da fuck. The terrible noise was coming definetely from the VFD itself. If the VFD is not fucked than keithley have some design issues. There is an LM317LM for the 36V supply which gets around 45V out the reservoir cap. The usual voltage divider circuit on the ADJ pin has no bypass cap so I poked around with my DMM measuring things and as I touched the ADJ pin with the probe the noise got down to almost nothing. So I just soldered a 100n ceramic disc onto one of the divider resistors so between GND and ADJ pin. What transformer do you mean? The mains transformer is humming as well, kinda annoying too. Too much text already, cheers and thanks again. Happy to follow along with the LCD/OLED project if you're doing that.
i once had a monitor that stoped working due to a bad capaditor that caused the powersupply to shut down due to the backlight and the main processor initializing the screen simultaniously drawing too much current and the capacitor was barly bulged
Thanks Marco! You squeeze more fun in 9 minutes than even ElectroBoom (duly linked on EEVblog www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/9-minutes-of-te-fun-with-marco-reps-on-keithley-2001-repair/ )
УРА! Video I was waiting for... Posting this comment even before watching :-D Edit: I'd love to get that B09 firmware :) What is that hack with crystal on ADC board? Didn't see such thing before, my 2001's had just regular XO there. Thin trace near C117 seem to be eaten away, did you fix that one too? Make sure to check out secret mode : ua-cam.com/video/Rmld3HVCVvY/v-deo.html When in secret mode you can also enable 8.5d mode in DCV ;). I'd suggest to get GPIB setup going to log some reference, since one of my 2001's had excessive noise even after passing self-test fully. Since you lucky to get B-version of 2001, now you need to get DIY nanovolt preamplifier for it. If you send me your shipping address, I can send you blank board for addon board for it :D
It was too easy and it's probably boring for you ... But I'd really like to make a replacement display, because in reality it looks a lot worse than in the video. How come nobody has done that yet?
Love your videos! I'm a subscriber for many years and I would like to know if you ever fixed Tektronix 2465 DMS (It has DMM on top and I think it isn't easy to find in these days), but I have one that needs attention. Just wish you live closer, so we could have some fun repairing it. I'm not experienced like you are, but it isn't stopping me from learning something new. It powers up and I had one time 4 lines showing (no input at all on all 4 channels) + I had text at the top and bottom, but for some reason it went away! There is a button called BEAM FIND that caused all of that, but I'm sure it should not work this way. Now I have everything shrunken in the center of the CRT, about 2" x 2" and the text is like small pixels nobody can read. Since it is a very old scope, cleaning contact would not hurt - should I use a contact cleaner or just alcohol? I think that the ribbon cables and connectors could oxidise and it should help my problem....? Visual inspection did not reveal any leaking capacitor or overheated parts. No bugs or spiders found inside and dust is just on the blades of the fan, that is in the rear. Thank you very much for your help or anyone else who can help me.
I lost a brand new 2001 and my beautiful 8 1/2 digit meter in a divorce last year. Honestly I cry as much about my lab equipment as I do my lost family. not a joke
Hi! Ich hätte hier ein HP3458a "übrig", für "umsonst" hergeben kann ich es zwar nicht, wenn du mal damit spielen möchtest können wir aber vielleicht etwas arrangieren, aktuell ist nur der Kalibrierdatenspeicher defekt. Wenn du Interesse hast meld dich einfach, würde mich freuhen, wenn das ding mal eine gute verwendung finden würde.
Ich dachte jetzt erstmal nicht an verkaufen, eher an verleihen. Das Teil liegt hier seit zwei jahren unbenutzt in der Ecke, wenn du es für ein zwei Videos brauchen kannst, oder einfach einen teardown (Das trau ich dir zerstörungsfrei zu), kann ichs dir mal für ne weile geben. Verkaufen würde ich prinzipell auch, aber in dem zustand ists halt auch ohne kalibrierung verdammt teuer...
I use a 2001 every day at work; we have several of them on the shelf. The maddening part is that my company has lawyers who have convinced them they *have* to recycle everything rather than sell it or give it to the employees, to avoid some kind of lawsuit. So the only way to rescue something like this is to sneak it out of the recycle bin without getting caught. Fortunately, my new boss is a man after my own heart when it comes to this policy, but still, *so* much beautiful equipment gets trashed, it's heartbreaking.
how awful tell me were do you work exactly ...........................
FYI, you're quickly gaining on AvE as my favorite technical UA-cam channel. I'm consistently impressed with your content.
I hope one day he does a video on his camera equipment and comments on where he learned his technique's (in my travels, next to the Japanese, the people in Germany are generally well studied in their camera use).
FWIW: A huge tech channel list is here: ( www.eevblog.com/forum/other-blog-specific/a/ )
I'd be interested in such a video too, or perhaps a lab tour. Thanks for the link, quite a comprehensive list. I know some of the more popular channels, but there are some interesting ones I haven't heard of.
Not only do you work according to "MY set of rules," [i.e., you're not cheaping out], you have a drole sense of humor which I totally appreciate! Bravo!
Judging by the attention you’ve devoted to Keithley instruments I think you have the same affinity to them as I have for Advantest and a few other Japanese manufacturers. While I’m (slowly...) acquiring the parts and related ancillary to repair my 8 1/2 digit Advantest multimeter, including eprom firmware thanks to the kindness of another owner of the R6871-E, your videos keep me entertained and at least mentally involved in the repair process. Great job, Thank you!
A replacement OLED would be awesome! Consider making one, please :)
never
Nah... Just wack a 1602 LCD in there. :D
That's a bingo. OMG I pissed myself.
You found your match with Christoph Waltz when it comes to idiomatic unique German accents.
Анжела Ильина boah geil ey
Thumbs up for "That's a bingo"
Awesome new addition, and very interesting with an OLED replacement - bring it!
Dude, your videos are great. Love the dry sense of humor you incorporate into them. Thanks.
The skull in your oscilloscope screen was really disturbing :-) As always, great editing!
+Tobias Link But something must have gone wrong there because of those barely visible black frames :-/
Again a very nice Video but whaaat is that in the background mirroring?! 1:04
It´s a spooky Marco
wew that totally spooked me
Nice spotting! And I'm hoping that's your real name.
"Um... sorry. How do you spell that?"
"How it sounds."
I remember there was a creepy clown in his last car radio video ... He is a master meme-er
Having 7.5 digits is not just about "accuracy". There are situations where absolute accuracy is immaterial, but the resolution still matters.
I operate a modest size server farm with a UPS that uses massive gel batteries. These age over time and the only way to monitor the aging is to track changes in discharge rates as the batteries age. The batteries were sized to provide 16 hours of continuous power reserve. This means that measuring the discharge rate is difficult if the time periods are of the order of one minute or two or even three. You can't get an accurate delta V. With a five or six-digit meter, I'm forced to wait a long time before I can get enough digits of change to claim a scientifically valid measurement. But I don't want the UPS running for 30 minutes just for the sake of measuring aging. I want to measure discharge for just a couple of minutes and then return to utility power.
When I changed from a Keithley 2000 to a Keithley 2010, the measurement period shortened dramatically, thanks to that additional digit of resolution. Again, the absolute accuracy of the measurement was unimportant. Was the voltage truly 27.48822 ? That's immaterial. As long as repeatability and resolution are reliable and I could time how long it took to drop by 5000µV. A used 2010 delivers this short measurement period, even five years since the last NIST-traceable calibration.
Wow. I just checked eBay for models 2001 and even 2010. Shocked at what they're fetching, even for parts/salvage. Three years ago, I scored the 2010 (working fine) for $500 (on eBay) after an Arizona solar panel company went belly up and liquidated all their lab gear.
I've encountered that setup with the full bridge rectifier before, might have been some old 70's computer or telcom equipment... Really neat design.
Marco... You're the best! Another fine piece of gear lives again!
And the calibration is only 21 years overdue!
What a nice and funny presentation of the repair!
Keith(ley) - a name you can trust. In all seriousness though I don't have anything made by them. Nice repair job Marco!
That „Woooouuuuh that’s a bingo!“ at 6:06 had some really strong Christoph Walz vibes
Nice, I had my eyes open for a while for a cheap 6.5 digit (or higher) meter, nothing I saw was cheap ! in the end I purchased a new siglent 3065X as it was only about twice the price of what I could find, and without the risk of not being able to repair it if something major was wrong.
Papst wouldn't had been good enough?
A 2002 would be an incredible step up. It's also the most compact 8.5-digit multimeter on the market, at least that I know of.
These are the best videos on the web
congratulations for the new bench meter and thanks for sharing!
The "that's a bingo" part bring me joy and scares me at the same time.
...An additional detail: On a high resolution / precision multimeter do NOT touch any analog board / measuring component with your bare hands.
Touching these components may result in deposits from your hands that will affect calibration.
Can you make a video about a tour in your workshop and the most used tools?
In RGB mode the FLIR sensor auto scales the image data. It's raw form is a 10bit greyscale image, in which you might have been able to see some change in your throat temperature, although I suspect it may be unlikely, given how important the neck is to the body.
that inglorious bastards reference though....
Things noone except Marco reps will say:"but at least it's not functional" 😂
3:30 Power up the meter slowly and carefully, LOL! You crack me up. Love these.
I have a model 2000 which requires a shunt connection (and a jumper) to run the tests. Surprised to see that the 2001 did not need these. Or, is there a more comprehensive test that the 2001 can run using the shunt and jumper?
Nice work. :)
thank you!
#FULLBRIDGERECTIFIER
1:55 Fidget Spinner? - Check! ✅
Wait, wait, wait. I gave u a watch?!
Good job on the repair, and also for making another really entertaining video. Keep up the good work!
Hum. I like the resolution, but resolving the unit to get it to resolve digits seems like a considerable bit of work. Maybe I'll stick with my HP3456A 6-digit meters. I've got four of them and I think all I've had to replace are a couple of failed power caps that screwed up the AC measurement abilities.
That vfd display is beautiful.
The guys from the PTB at the Makerfaire could only calibrate resistance up to 20K Ohms for instance. That was a bit dissapointing when I was there last time...
Hey...Do you think you might do an OLED replacement for the worn out VFD ?....I have a 2400 that is in dire need...guess how much a new VFD is...600 some dollars?
You are welcome, I hope you appreciate your watch
Awesome video as always! Please do more of these repairing videos with schematic explanaition! We can learn a lot from them!
By the way, why do you need 2 peaces of Keithley to your lab?
Meshuggah - War at 2:54 and 3:10, unexpected choice of music lol
Which watch?
Потрясающие приборы! Exellent!
Love your troubleshooting vids.
Great humor too.
Thanks!
8:58 - but I didn't give you a watch? Still nice video, enjoyed watching it.
Recommendation: Next time you replace a part like the 470-ohm resistor, please do a closeup of the part so we can see the manufacturer, PN, etc.
Hi Marco, I'm really impressed by your "interdisciplinary proficiency" what's your study background? Where did you learn so much about electronics I mean? Very good contents as always!
Luigi Mazzoli I think he mentioned once that he studied CS
Kennst du das Problem: die Anzeige geht im DC/AC-Bereich nicht auf Null. Z.B. im 2V-B. werden ohne Messkabel ca 50mV angezeigt. Referenz-u. Integrationskondensator sind OK. AD-Chip ist Maxim 7129.
STAHP PLS... Absolutely pissed myself.. You're the funniest prick on the tube mate. I'm luvin it!!
Woah... you "two soldering iron trick" is a brilliant idea... one of those really obvious things that I should have thought of on my own... but didn't.... Excellent!
Replacing a vacuum florescent display with an OLED.... no... that is nothing but blasphemy!
Hi from Italy. I used until last day for my hobby of electronics and Hi Fi, a very old KEITLEY 2001, bought in a vintage fair, have twenty years or more. Due to an wrong movement, the instrument fell down from table. Several parts of plastic cabinet are broken, these aren't a problem because I have find a new cabinet in INTERNET. The main problem is that now the istrument don't receive the main commands from operator panel, expecially the front or rear inputs. Could you help me? Thanks in advancing.
Super Video Marco, as always!
Moin Marco, how are you doing? Have you thought about the display replacement? I have a K2000 and my VFD is making high pitch noise which means - I guess - the VFD is fucked. Since a replacement is hilariously expensive an LCD is at least a remotely senseful (lol) option. The key interface from the front panel is according to the service manual "proprietary" so the MC on the front panel has to stay where it is. The VFD drivers have a serial input and maybe the protocal can be reverse enginerded from the datasheet of those. All the little "announciators" around the alpha numeric part of the VFD are my biggest concern since they just disappear unless one makes their own LCD or uses a complex high pixel density LCD which probably needs special drivers and interface.
Let me know what you think, Cheers
Yeh, it's not a sunday afternoon kind of job, but I think with a logic analyer one might be able reverse engineer the communication and just display the appropriate things on a high-red lcd ... For the high pitch noise, have you checked the high voltage module already? Replace cap, dip transformer in polyurethane?
Marco Reps Hey, thanks for the reply. Yes it will be a proper project thing. I think it's best to go into the serial comms between the front panel MCU and the HV drivers for the display so the keypad and communication to the main processor is still original.
I actually just right now kinda fixed/bodged the problem, I guess. Hope no explosions follow! I changed all (? seven) electrolytic caps and none of them was leaking, what da fuck. The terrible noise was coming definetely from the VFD itself. If the VFD is not fucked than keithley have some design issues. There is an LM317LM for the 36V supply which gets around 45V out the reservoir cap. The usual voltage divider circuit on the ADJ pin has no bypass cap so I poked around with my DMM measuring things and as I touched the ADJ pin with the probe the noise got down to almost nothing. So I just soldered a 100n ceramic disc onto one of the divider resistors so between GND and ADJ pin. What transformer do you mean? The mains transformer is humming as well, kinda annoying too. Too much text already, cheers and thanks again. Happy to follow along with the LCD/OLED project if you're doing that.
oled pls
Hey i thought your lifetime goal is to own every Wiha Picofinish!
YOU LIED TO ME?
More than one lifetime goal is not possible? I´m screwed!
Same, i cant even accomplish mine: Making use of the upper 70mhz of my scope.
Check the signal quality of your VGA/HD/4k video sources? Plenty of room... :-)
and again best part is the R&S Scope... 1:00 ;)
dual wielding soldering irons. and i thought i had seen it all!
Hey marco,dave is doing a guest video thing. you should send him one of your future video so that more people would discover your awesome chanel.
Yes, seen it, but thanks for the hint! I am apparently not small any more, by Daves standards, as he said
Marco Reps great!
What's the function of the fidget spinner at 1:50?
Siana Gearz It's a distraction. Get it? ;)
I see you everywhere I go for electronic vids I swear
Thou stalketh me?
Siana Gearz .....no. maybe.
I believe these things at 4:20 are called FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER (in a scary voice with an echo).
i need the complete list of errors of keithley 2000. the repair manual on internet hasn't some. I will appreciate some help.
May I ask what is your source for high quality electrolytic capacitors?
i once had a monitor that stoped working due to a bad capaditor that caused the powersupply to shut down due to the backlight and the main processor initializing the screen simultaniously drawing too much current and the capacitor was barly bulged
Excellent work as usual. Keep up the quality vids!
Could have used a thermal camera to check for heat spots etc.. maybe that would help in the future!?
Great video my friend Marco!
Would like to see the OLED screen replacement!
Great video and great job with the restoration! The bingo was your genuine reaction, correct?
Thanks Marco! You squeeze more fun in 9 minutes than even ElectroBoom (duly linked on EEVblog www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/9-minutes-of-te-fun-with-marco-reps-on-keithley-2001-repair/ )
Yay, it's like U-nit UT136C. IIRC U-nit manufactures multimeters for Voltcraft.
Gread video! interesting auto-reguation circuit there. Thsnks for the awsome videos
Another excellent video, both informative AND entertaining. Thank you. :-)
VunderFuLL... Where silicon meets magic. Thank you.
There's a chance that I will have to give up on my 3458A repair project, but unfortunately shipping to Germany would probably kill the deal for you.
I love these videos.
Hello, can you change the diode tweet range?
Hallo friend, please share brand name your solder.. thanks
What what, what was wrong with the fan? it looked fine to me!
also yes for the OLED, that might come useful someday for other gear like 34401's
It sure LOOKED fine...
Something that normally costs over $1000 should not have a fan that sounds like a jet engine, unless that fan is in a jet engine.
I love your videos and I just wish you can live next door to me! Thanks again!
1:05 The hell is that reflection in the scope? :D
Great video. Please keep up the great work
УРА! Video I was waiting for... Posting this comment even before watching :-D
Edit: I'd love to get that B09 firmware :)
What is that hack with crystal on ADC board? Didn't see such thing before, my 2001's had just regular XO there.
Thin trace near C117 seem to be eaten away, did you fix that one too?
Make sure to check out secret mode : ua-cam.com/video/Rmld3HVCVvY/v-deo.html
When in secret mode you can also enable 8.5d mode in DCV ;). I'd suggest to get GPIB setup going to log some reference, since one of my 2001's had excessive noise even after passing self-test fully.
Since you lucky to get B-version of 2001, now you need to get DIY nanovolt preamplifier for it. If you send me your shipping address, I can send you blank board for addon board for it :D
It was too easy and it's probably boring for you ... But I'd really like to make a replacement display, because in reality it looks a lot worse than in the video. How come nobody has done that yet?
Here's a close-up of that module: imgur.com/34JfX3R + sent an e-mail about that nanovolt preamp!
@@reps , It's that Korean unit that adds the spice to the mix!
I have that same Voltcraft DMM, but it's missing the battery cover, so it's pretty much unusable.
Wery useful repair! Thank you
Thanks for the upload
Hey, i bought such a multimeter not long ago!
Love your videos! I'm a subscriber for many years and I would like to know if you ever fixed Tektronix 2465 DMS (It has DMM on top and I think it isn't easy to find in these days), but I have one that needs attention.
Just wish you live closer, so we could have some fun repairing it. I'm not experienced like you are, but it isn't stopping me from learning something new.
It powers up and I had one time 4 lines showing (no input at all on all 4 channels) + I had text at the top and bottom, but for some reason it went away! There is a button called BEAM FIND that caused all of that, but I'm sure it should not work this way. Now I have everything shrunken in the center of the CRT, about 2" x 2" and the text is like small pixels nobody can read.
Since it is a very old scope, cleaning contact would not hurt - should I use a contact cleaner or just alcohol? I think that the ribbon cables and connectors could oxidise and it should help my problem....? Visual inspection did not reveal any leaking capacitor or overheated parts. No bugs or spiders found inside and dust is just on the blades of the fan, that is in the rear.
Thank you very much for your help or anyone else who can help me.
Wann ist die nächste "Maker Fair" und wo?
If you look around properly you'll find I've already made an OLED conversion for the vacuum display
Nice video, as usual. Why do you need 8 digits?
I don't. I didn't even need 6.5 digits, except for checking other meters that I didn't really need either. But I want :(
At least you're honest.
You made this look easy! :)
Did you ever to the oled upgade?
I'm total noob in electronics, but why the f i'm watching this and this looks & sounds COOL? :D
I lost a brand new 2001 and my beautiful 8 1/2 digit meter in a divorce last year. Honestly I cry as much about my lab equipment as I do my lost family. not a joke
i love this part of delta metal 2:55 😁
I always thought multimeters was just small portable devices... Now I know that there is a bigger version...
Gerne für die Uhr!
I think those kind of videos are thing of the past!
Hi! Ich hätte hier ein HP3458a "übrig", für "umsonst" hergeben kann ich es zwar nicht, wenn du mal damit spielen möchtest können wir aber vielleicht etwas arrangieren, aktuell ist nur der Kalibrierdatenspeicher defekt. Wenn du Interesse hast meld dich einfach, würde mich freuhen, wenn das ding mal eine gute verwendung finden würde.
Meine Finanzen müssen sich erstmal von dieser Investition erholen, aber generell würde ich natürlich einen guten Preis für so ein Gerät zahlen ...
Ich dachte jetzt erstmal nicht an verkaufen, eher an verleihen. Das Teil liegt hier seit zwei jahren unbenutzt in der Ecke, wenn du es für ein zwei Videos brauchen kannst, oder einfach einen teardown (Das trau ich dir zerstörungsfrei zu), kann ichs dir mal für ne weile geben. Verkaufen würde ich prinzipell auch, aber in dem zustand ists halt auch ohne kalibrierung verdammt teuer...