saw some Ontario plates on that f-150 that dropped off your quarter panel like the build videos! hopefully u get your engine all sorted out man! cheers
So he went past intake opening/closing, then went to ex valve opening/closing, that's 180' out of time. He actually said that he was coming up on power stroke then kept turning until he was 180' out. I'm sure he figured it out later LOL always keep a fire extinguisher handy!
Most of my own projects get worked on between 7PM and 3 AM. Little mistakes like this happen... Don't worry, we got it going. Check out the dyno video ua-cam.com/video/PndC9bP-ecg/v-deo.html
I think it's awesome to see a used engine utilized. Something a real person can relate to not the usual high dollar crate engines or expensive rebuilds. Great work, I was not worried just laughing at you. I do lots of stuff like that likely more than you do LOL. I did watch the dyno video. I could not see the numbers on the heads, I wonder what your compression ratio is, did you cc the heads? Looked like open chamber heads. What cam? I'm building a 350 right now, a 69 HO shortblock and a set of 67 670 heads. The 69 HO had the same 2.11/1.77" valves (that was the only 350 notched that big). I'm probably going with an HO cam or a cheaper aftermarket no more than .450" lift. My heads are actual 67 GTO RA "D" port the last closed chamber head Pontiac made. Going in a 65 LeMans with T350 leaning towards RA "D" port ex manifolds and Pypes "X" exhaust system. Running a stock 326 low compression with 4bbl and Super Turbine 300 2 sp trans until my new engine is ready. Eager for more keep up the good work.
I'm glad that you're HEI clears a firewall my 67 Pontiac Firebird cannot house one of those huge distributors I had to resort to a retrofit Pro Comp HEI which does the job but it's hard to dial a car in since there are no springs or shims to swap out or adjust 4 timing curve.... so now I have to spend an extra half a grand for a flamethrower Billet aluminum distributor from protronics the nice thing about it does have a rev limiter built-in and adjustable ...along with 3 sets of Springs and three sets of shims so that I can adjust my timing curve 70 different ways the nice thing about this distributor is that it looks retro and it clears the firewall.
I had to stop the video and add a comment once you started doing the distributor terminations. I find it much easier to just measure, cut, terminate and then add the grease and push on the boot. It almost pained me to watch you do that wire at around 19:30 in the video, lol.
My fav car is the GTO. Love those 400's. Don't feel to bad about the ignition wire ends. I been making my own wires for over 20 years and I still can't get them to look like a factory one, LOL.
+prancstaman Yeah, nobody will ever see underneath the boot anyway. We got the GTO back yesterday with brand new quarters on it and the engine is set to be on the dyno next week. Long way to go but it is getting closer.
When I put in valve seals I put the little o-ring style then the umbrella style on top... Didn't have much luck with my edelbrock carb but last year I picked up a fuel technologies carb and what a difference, works great and was cheaper then the edelbrock, I like the engine rebuild video... Maybe sometime do a complete build.. Starting to be a lost art of the older motors
+ddl2k7 For sure! The problem with the Edelbrocks is that they are very versatile through tuning but it is tricky to get it right. I am quoting a job right now to do an ls swap into an 87 Iroc. if that goes through, I would like to do a complete rebuild as I don't like guessing what I have to start with. There will also be a full build of a 5.9 Cummins coming up.
Too much compression. The absolute highest you should run is 9.5 on Iron heads. I have 96 on a 455 block with a 428 lower to make it a 440. (Long story on the reason) my comp. Is 9.3. Which will allow it to live on 91 Octane Gas. In Cali we have crap gas.
Rich I think you went 1 revolution too far when setting TDC on the #1 cylinder. Shouldn't TDC on compression stroke be in between the intake valve closing and exhaust valve opening? Also if you need any numbers looked up for your motor or heads I have several good Pontiac books along with parts manuals for exploded diagrams and such. Your videos are the best..... probably the best channel on UA-cam!
+axlshaft Thanks for that! We take pride in the channel and there are two of us. Me doing the videos and Aaron editing the videos. I did catch that I was off one revolution after but it got lost in the edit. Thanks for mentioning it though. At the end of compression and the beginning of Power, both valves are closed and the cam lobe is on its furthest away point from opening a valve (Lifter is on the heel of the Cam). After the power stroke (Starting at BDC) and starting the Exhaust stroke, the exhaust stroke will start to open. The engine is at the Dyno shop right now but as soon as I get it back, I will take you up on your offer and shoot you some numbers. Now I'm curious, what's in your garage?
+DEBOSS GARAGE I actually have a 1967 GTO that I am going to start restoring hopefully this year. I also have a 1995 GMC K1500 that I am putting a 4BT into so your videos on the 4BT Tahoe were quite inspiring as well.
+axlshaft are you on twitter? send me some pics of the GTO. Even though I think we are over the hump of never seeing the end, we can always use a little inspiration.
I watched a UK show where the mechanic would put the pushrods into a cardboard so that they can be replaced in the same place they came from...perhaps yours were new?
I didn't disassemble the engine and there was no cardboard. I generally put everything back in the same spot including rockers but the only parts that are absolutely crucial to be back in the same parts are the pistons and bearings.
You can dye plastic, so get online and see about dying plastic to blue. Best place to start would be checking gun owners, because they dye Glocks and stuff like that. So if they dye a polymer gun body, you know it's going to be a lasting job.
Also, you can use dielectric grease for the spark plugs. It's perfect for keeping wires in the engine bay rust or corrosion free AND at the same time, it functions as regular lube/grease and thus allows you to fit wires and stuff. Not going to drop names but, it's about 7 dollars a tube and it will last you a long time. Everything electric from spark plug ends to connections you've just made and sleeved, that thing is your friend.
Don't bother with pliers (or at least with the general ones that are designed for too many jobs to do the one you need right), use a die. eBay has them in different sizes. At the factory they use dies, so a die is what you need to get that factory look. Also, you don't really need the handle that goes with the dies, i just use a pipe wrench (the one with the handle adjuster nut) and i've seen a guy use a Bahco adjustable wrench on one. Of course, if you have a drill press, the simplest method is to just fix the bottom part of the die in a vise and press the top one with the quill feed. You can find them under "spark plug crimp die" in Google.
Yep, I thought the same thing when he said that. There are actually 3 components in a mid 70's HEI, the module, the ignition coil and the pickup coil you mentioned. I have never had one go bad but have had a wire breakage failure due to vacuum advance moving the pickup coil plus age of part.
![650 vs 750 Carbureted Pontiac 400 Hits The Engine Dyno | '67 Pontiac GTO [EP7]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PndC9bP-ecg/mqdefault.jpg)
![650 vs 750 Carbureted Pontiac 400 Hits The Engine Dyno | '67 Pontiac GTO [EP7]](/img/tr.png)
Looking awesome 👍🏻 glad I can binge this series as the episodes have already all been made haha
saw some Ontario plates on that f-150 that dropped off your quarter panel like the build videos! hopefully u get your engine all sorted out man! cheers
So he went past intake opening/closing, then went to ex valve opening/closing, that's 180' out of time. He actually said that he was coming up on power stroke then kept turning until he was 180' out. I'm sure he figured it out later LOL always keep a fire extinguisher handy!
Most of my own projects get worked on between 7PM and 3 AM. Little mistakes like this happen... Don't worry, we got it going. Check out the dyno video ua-cam.com/video/PndC9bP-ecg/v-deo.html
I think it's awesome to see a used engine utilized. Something a real person can relate to not the usual high dollar crate engines or expensive rebuilds. Great work, I was not worried just laughing at you. I do lots of stuff like that likely more than you do LOL. I did watch the dyno video. I could not see the numbers on the heads, I wonder what your compression ratio is, did you cc the heads? Looked like open chamber heads. What cam? I'm building a 350 right now, a 69 HO shortblock and a set of 67 670 heads. The 69 HO had the same 2.11/1.77" valves (that was the only 350 notched that big). I'm probably going with an HO cam or a cheaper aftermarket no more than .450" lift. My heads are actual 67 GTO RA "D" port the last closed chamber head Pontiac made. Going in a 65 LeMans with T350 leaning towards RA "D" port ex manifolds and Pypes "X" exhaust system. Running a stock 326 low compression with 4bbl and Super Turbine 300 2 sp trans until my new engine is ready. Eager for more keep up the good work.
Yes i seen that also
I'm glad that you're HEI clears a firewall my 67 Pontiac Firebird cannot house one of those huge distributors I had to resort to a retrofit Pro Comp HEI which does the job but it's hard to dial a car in since there are no springs or shims to swap out or adjust 4 timing curve.... so now I have to spend an extra half a grand for a flamethrower Billet aluminum distributor from protronics the nice thing about it does have a rev limiter built-in and adjustable ...along with 3 sets of Springs and three sets of shims so that I can adjust my timing curve 70 different ways the nice thing about this distributor is that it looks retro and it clears the firewall.
I had to stop the video and add a comment once you started doing the distributor terminations. I find it much easier to just measure, cut, terminate and then add the grease and push on the boot. It almost pained me to watch you do that wire at around 19:30 in the video, lol.
My fav car is the GTO. Love those 400's. Don't feel to bad about the ignition wire ends. I been making my own wires for over 20 years and I still can't get them to look like a factory one, LOL.
+prancstaman Yeah, nobody will ever see underneath the boot anyway. We got the GTO back yesterday with brand new quarters on it and the engine is set to be on the dyno next week. Long way to go but it is getting closer.
I'll(kyy
When I put in valve seals I put the little o-ring style then the umbrella style on top... Didn't have much luck with my edelbrock carb but last year I picked up a fuel technologies carb and what a difference, works great and was cheaper then the edelbrock, I like the engine rebuild video... Maybe sometime do a complete build.. Starting to be a lost art of the older motors
+ddl2k7 For sure! The problem with the Edelbrocks is that they are very versatile through tuning but it is tricky to get it right. I am quoting a job right now to do an ls swap into an 87 Iroc. if that goes through, I would like to do a complete rebuild as I don't like guessing what I have to start with. There will also be a full build of a 5.9 Cummins coming up.
got 69 400 with #16 Heads!!! 10 to 1 stock
Too much compression.
The absolute highest you should run is 9.5 on Iron heads. I have 96 on a 455 block with a 428 lower to make it a 440. (Long story on the reason) my comp. Is 9.3. Which will allow it to live on 91 Octane Gas.
In Cali we have crap gas.
@@brucerhoads8614 that's my favorite combo, I've run several of these and I'm always satisfied.
I've always used a washer pounded into a deep well 9/16 or 1/2 socket duct taped to a long extension to spin the pumps.
Congrats on the 400. What # heads are on it? Are they the high compression heads? Thanks.
He set spark plug gap for 1969 69 had points distributor but with hei you can run large spark plug gap
8:50 You said do-do. lol.
Rich I think you went 1 revolution too far when setting TDC on the #1 cylinder. Shouldn't TDC on compression stroke be in between the intake valve closing and exhaust valve opening? Also if you need any numbers looked up for your motor or heads I have several good Pontiac books along with parts manuals for exploded diagrams and such. Your videos are the best..... probably the best channel on UA-cam!
+axlshaft Thanks for that! We take pride in the channel and there are two of us. Me doing the videos and Aaron editing the videos. I did catch that I was off one revolution after but it got lost in the edit. Thanks for mentioning it though. At the end of compression and the beginning of Power, both valves are closed and the cam lobe is on its furthest away point from opening a valve (Lifter is on the heel of the Cam). After the power stroke (Starting at BDC) and starting the Exhaust stroke, the exhaust stroke will start to open. The engine is at the Dyno shop right now but as soon as I get it back, I will take you up on your offer and shoot you some numbers. Now I'm curious, what's in your garage?
+DEBOSS GARAGE I actually have a 1967 GTO that I am going to start restoring hopefully this year. I also have a 1995 GMC K1500 that I am putting a 4BT into so your videos on the 4BT Tahoe were quite inspiring as well.
+axlshaft are you on twitter? send me some pics of the GTO. Even though I think we are over the hump of never seeing the end, we can always use a little inspiration.
I watched a UK show where the mechanic would put the pushrods into a cardboard so that they can be replaced in the same place they came from...perhaps yours were new?
I didn't disassemble the engine and there was no cardboard. I generally put everything back in the same spot including rockers but the only parts that are absolutely crucial to be back in the same parts are the pistons and bearings.
Good luck with heater hose vac advance is almost touching
im trying to find a 1950 gmc 100 i was wondering where i could find one if u know where
That 15 horse stealing fan though
since when do baby wipes have alcohol in them?
Since the babies started developing an addiction
Can you please give me the rebuild parts and kits info please you would be a great help verry appreciate
You can dye plastic, so get online and see about dying plastic to blue. Best place to start would be checking gun owners, because they dye Glocks and stuff like that. So if they dye a polymer gun body, you know it's going to be a lasting job.
Also, you can use dielectric grease for the spark plugs. It's perfect for keeping wires in the engine bay rust or corrosion free AND at the same time, it functions as regular lube/grease and thus allows you to fit wires and stuff.
Not going to drop names but, it's about 7 dollars a tube and it will last you a long time. Everything electric from spark plug ends to connections you've just made and sleeved, that thing is your friend.
+aserta Thanks! I already use it on a regular basis but never thought to put it on spark plug ends
Don't bother with pliers (or at least with the general ones that are designed for too many jobs to do the one you need right), use a die. eBay has them in different sizes. At the factory they use dies, so a die is what you need to get that factory look. Also, you don't really need the handle that goes with the dies, i just use a pipe wrench (the one with the handle adjuster nut) and i've seen a guy use a Bahco adjustable wrench on one. Of course, if you have a drill press, the simplest method is to just fix the bottom part of the die in a vise and press the top one with the quill feed.
You can find them under "spark plug crimp die" in Google.
So he forgot there is a pickup coil that can leave you on the side of the road.
Yep, I thought the same thing when he said that. There are actually 3 components in a mid 70's HEI, the module, the ignition coil and the pickup coil you mentioned. I have never had one go bad but have had a wire breakage failure due to vacuum advance moving the pickup coil plus age of part.
Your 180 out exhaust valve jest closed
I should have looked at post first i see that you fix it
Wife🤰
Or
Car 🚗