Rex something I did to combat racking was intentionally install my vise parallel but plane my vise jaw board to slightly taper so that when it racks the jaw straightens out. Seemed to help some.
Same here. I used this vise on my Paul Sellers plywood bench for about 1.5yrs. I found the vise would unevenly grip boards placed above the screw (when edge planing, etc.) when tightened. The fix was to taper the vise jaw a bit. Mine was ash and about 1-5/8" thick. I tapered it so it was 1-5/8" at the top but about 1-1/4" at the bottom. After tapering, the face of the jaw would contact the face of the board being planed evenly across the jaw when tightened.
I installed this vice on my Roubo Bench 5 years ago and still using it. Made several changes:1- ground off the upside-down cast CHINA off the front and painted it the same color as the Record Vice on the end. 2.replaced the wood screws holding the chop with recessed bolts. The screws loosened every use. 3-disgarded the additional guides and use a small collection of inserts to balance the racking otherwise the throat is shortened if I used the additional guides. 4-added leather lining.
I (narrowly) avoided the screw-alignment problem by disassembling the vise and creating a template on a scrap of plywood before drilling into the apron. Then I just placed the template on the apron with double-sided-tape and drilled out the apron holes. Just make sure your template is placed in correct alignment on the apron. The screw is off-center, so if you place the template on the apron flipped around, you'll get a screw hole that is completely wrong.
"This video was supposed to be...easy!" Rex, you should know by now that NOTHING is easy, especially the thing you thought would be. I built this bench and bought this vise and I can say with confidence that I probably wouldn't have been able to mount it properly without this video. Thanks again for the great work! Like most mistakes, those you made in this project will be instructive to us all.
At 9:01, the error goes back to 8:07 where the threaded rod sagged out of line with the guide bars. Disassembling the front seems unneeded when you could just use the back end of the vice or your initial drawing to get that center hole spot on. This is a a great video, and I've always appreciated your candor in showing and explaining the errors and obstacles along the way. This really helps prepare someone for the reality that there will always be errors and obstacles in woodworking. As a tattoo artist friend of mine once said, mastery comes from recovering from your mistakes, not the absence of them.
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Your vice recommendation sparked my interest. I'm planning on a new workbench and the vice i currently use is top mounted. This vice i a good solution for freeing up my precious real estate of my workbench. Thank you for reminding this kind of setups. 👍
Isn't is always harder than it looks? I think you will find that very few of us are dissuaded by the difficulty. I am not alone in finding the video inspiring and I can't wait to get to my vice installation. This is because you solved two problems I was having. First, you specified that the vice pad be no more than 4 inches above the support the vice affords it. Now I know that I can install the vice where I wanted to and not worry that the vice pads will break. Then you also demonstrated the DIY transfer punch. Buying tools, at retail prices, that I don't expect to use much is a deal breaker for me. Now I can custom-make the transfer punches I will need and I won't need to delay while I wait for a lucky find at an estate sale. Keep on filming those false steps, mistakes and unexpected problems. They are the hallmark of the best teachers. They are your hallmarks. They are why I will be watching your videos as long as you continue making them.
after a tons of videos i finally went with a paul sellers bench based on the scraps i had laying around, but its so similar to your benches I happy to see yet another proper budget bench series coming out soon!
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Hello, Mr. Krueger; I think I'd have done that (drilling the screw hole) a bit differently. In my experience, when held level the screw will sag at the unsupported end. I would have secured the vise, w/ the screw level. Then I'd raise & lower the unsupported rear end to determine the range of movement. Half that from the bottom should give a close enough center when the screw hole is 1/4" larger than the screw (1/8" clearance all around). Even more clearance prolly wouldn't hurt, say 3/16" clearance (3/8" larger than the screw). Just an idea, I have *not* tried it but it should work. Great job, & IMO the vise is still a good deal. If building the bench just compensate for the vise before the bench is completed. I do like the way you chose to hide the hole but I wonder if it bothers you. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Another purchasing consideration: currently in my area the price of stair tread at the big-box stores near me make putting together the leg vice significantly more expensive than putting in the full vice, even if I had to buy a small bit of framing lumber to finish off the install. For my area in Wisconsin, the combination of Vost screw and stair treads would be about $85 before tax right now (Vost screw is just under $59 at the moment, and $26 total for all the stair treads). Currently the Yost vice is on sale for just under $63 and you just need some framing scrap to finish setting that up. From an economic standpoint, the vice is currently the way to go, at least until there's a rush on them and the price goes up.
FYI i'f you're installing this vise in 2024, it doesnt come with the collets anymore, I didnt see a reason to install it so far back in that case, just got it maybe an inch or so back from the front apron
Came here to say this. Your authenticity and desire to genuinely be of service to the community are why I’m a patron. Happy to support what you do, and I know I’m more than getting my money’s worth!
The first half of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
Boy, you weren't kidding. Not much room for error here, I screwed up nearly every step. Make sure the receiving piece inside the bench is absolutely parallel to the apron face. Drill oversized holes. Also, make sure you install it in the right location the first time! I learned a lot through trial and error, but I hope never to do this again.
Very picky comment, but if you're going to shim your transfer punch with tape maybe make sure the tape will be inside the holes once installed... 6:30 🙄
8:10 I was like "oh boy, it really looks like the screw is loose and gravity pulling it down, don't mark it like that Rex!". 😢 Also: "...a square of MATCHING wood..." 🤣
I made your English joiners bench about 6mo ago and I installed this exact vise on it. Installation on that specific bench is very easy, I opted to use it on the end, so I didn't need to disassemble it at all. Simply clamped it to the bench top, extended the jaw out so it didn't have to be disassembled, retract the jaw so the guide bars hit the trestle, pencil around the bars so I knew where to drill, center punched the screw holes in the vise body under the bench top, take it off, remove the bench top, drill drill drill, put the bench top and vise back on, realize I forgot to mark the screw, do thar a second time, screw it to the bench top, add your vise faces, plane them flat to the bench top, drill a dog hole in the outside face, good to go. Very easy and only should take an afternoon to install!
I had trouble with my install. The bolts I used were undersized so I used washers like in this video. But the vice would move when clamping since the holes had some play. I'm currently looking for bolts with a bigger screw shaft.
Couple of things; The back of the vise should be up against the rear jaw/apron so it has better support and cant move forward as the vise is used. When it's set back its relying purely on the screws fixing it to the bench to hold it in place as the vise is clamped. Those D shaped collars are supposed to go on the outside of the back jaw/apron, not behind it. In use this type of vise will tilt the jaw when its clamped tight with work in it. To help counteract this; plane a slight taper into the front jaw so that it is thinner at the bottom (top touches the rear jaw/apron first) This makes sure that the work will always be gripped at the very top of the jaw when its tightened, and as its tightened the bottom will contact too. If not you may find when its tight it pulls away in the top and is only gripping at the bottom when the jaw tilts, meaning your work will wobble a bit when you're workin (this is vexing). It doesnt really make sense to me that it does this; it just does for some reason, make sure to taper the front jaw a little. A front jaw of 60-80mm (2 3/8 to 3 1/4) makes the vise much more sturdy and will also help with the jaw tilting, a hardwood jaw will help even more. Another factor in the tilting is the depth of the vise (bench top to guide bars) usually this style vise works best at around 75mm (3inch), 100mm (4inch) is around the upper limit. There are detailed instructions online, I think Veritas might have instructions for this style vise too; I know they used to make one like this so I presume the instructions are still around....... they make instructions for everything, even for a saw 🤔😂
Arguably, installing them outside is slightly more difficult for beginners. I strongly believe its fine to put them on the back size. On thick top, this is mounted with five #10 2 1/2 inch screws, so its very sturdy already. But its easy enough to add a support block between the collets and the main body. This way, when you squeeze hard, you endup squeezing wood and metal, rather then pulling on the screws. I made the mistake of placing the collet proud of the main body, thinking I'd preserve the wide opening, I don't recommend that, you kind of loose the benefit of having the collet in the first place, and endup with a bit more racking.
What did your dad teach you Rex? "If you have the time to do it over, you had the time to do it right the first time." Just sayin 😉 I know, I've had to do it over some many times and my dad's words echo in my head every time. I'm sure I would have done the same as you did here. Thanks for another fine video sir, worts and all. 😄
At 08:10 I yelled at my monitor "Rex! Stop it! It's not aligned properly!!" ... well, I did my best but he obviously couldn't hear me and so fate took its course ... 😂
Excellent! It was great to see "Rex figures it out" again! Thanks for the honest appraisal of the level of difficulty. I suspect I'll be doing a leg vice when I build my Quick Stack! Glad to, also, be a new Patron. Thanks for all you do!
Just added the exact same vise about a month ago. Jointer's bench with a 2x10 apron. Just flip the bench on it's top it made it so much easier. A little trouble with the mounting hardware and filing for the handle. All said and done mine works great. Good and cost-effective!
I literally just finished installing this Yost vice last week from your plans…😂. Makes me feel better to know I’m not just a dumb dumb as it took me a few days and several fixes to get it right.
I didn't know I needed this video so thank you Rex. I built a decent first bench and am not ready too build a 2nd. My biggest issue right now is work holding. Now time too go down a rabbit hole of vice installing!
I made a version of your low Roman workbench that was 2 boards narrower to make it more portable to take outside and had to install a 7" vice on the end, without running afoul of the legs and had to carve out a large recess on the underside to do it and drive the lag bolts in an awkward way, but it got done, even though I had never installed one before. Not easy, but totally worth the trouble.
Rex, I used a very similar vise for years. One handy location consideration - not everyone will see this the same, is to set the jaws flush with the END of the bench as well as the top. That makes it very easy to cross cut pieces without indulging positioning gymnastics or a bench hook. Sadly the cheap hardware I had tends to wrack badly without a spacer. I decided to spring for a Wilton 10-inch bench vise. No guide bars at all. But expensive.
Cannot agree more, while there are work-arounds such as larger face plates and shims, its a pain when all you want to do is to quickly crosscut a board with a hand saw without having it wiggle all over the place. The key is planning ahead when you design your bench. Wish I had thought of that with my current iteration.
That's one of the reasons I worked for more than a decade with up to four wood-jawed screw clamps before I even bothered getting a personal vice. I started with an 8 inch clamp... and eventually ended up with a pair of 8's and a pair of 12's... Worth their weight in GOLD. ;o)
When i mark water points when installing a vanity, i have in the past put a bit of tap grease on the points where they punch out of the wall amd just push the vanity back till they touch Leaves a removable mark right where i need, then drill am oversized hole. Never missed yet
I don't know how the price differs, but I've found that a piece of black pipe with two end caps makes an awesome handle for vices. I have it on both of my leg vices and my face vice, and I love it. Disassembly is a breeze!
@@benjamingiese841 Haha all I can say is I'm getting pretty good at stopping the vice when the handle isn't in a vertical position, or I make sure my hand gets out of there in a hurry. I've only smashed my thumb web once so far with that handle, but that left one hell of a blood blister.
One quick thing, I have this vice and learned the hard way that they work A LOT better if you use a 3" thick front chop with the holes drilled very accurately. This takes a ton of racking pressure of of the three silly screws that are supposed to hold the chop. Once I did that I started loving this vice. Also, consider facing the chop with leather, it makes a big difference.
@@jarroddavis4025 in the video Rex uses a 1.5" piece of wood for the moving jaw of the vise. By making that 3" thick the thicker wood in the moving jaw will put the twisting force on the guide rods rather than the three screws that hole the front jaw on the vise. There is a lot of twisting force when something small is clamped near the top of the vise (which is a very common scenario). Hope that helps.
I made a twin screw vice with a long, thick threaded rod that I cut in half, two nuts, and some scraps like a 4x4. Total cost? About $4. It works great!
I'm in the middle of building a 2800mm continental workbench with face and tail vice from the dead ash in the area . Boy, I wish you could have made all the mistakes first! Thanks for the video.
Nice! I bought a Chinese made quick release vice at a yard sale. My bench has multiple uses so modifications to it for the vice have not been an easy decision. It may have a motorcycle engine on it next week. You just proved my hesitance.
I am very much looking forward to seeing that new bench, Rex. I'm about to build a bench. I was going to go for your English jointer's bench, but I really wanted to include a tool well on it. I'm thinking I will likely copy your new one, but use lamented 2x4s for the top
Even in the US? I bought a Parkinson (15 with quick release) vise recently for £40 ($45) in the UK, which needed a good bit of work. It's brilliant, solid as a rock and no chance of racking. I have one similar to that in the video as an end vice, but I'm considering getting rid of it as it racks quite badly after a few years (my one didn't have the additional third guides though). I only really need a face vise anyway. I would urge anyone in the UK to get an old Record, Woden or Parkinson rather than anything new and cheap, the value for money is just impossible to beat. I took mine apart, ground off the rust and grime, painted and put back together. That gives a better understanding of the tool (although it's fairly simple), and well worth doing. The only warning I'd give is to never leave your fingers in it when operating the quick release! That thing can grip.
Clear and very useful video Rex. I have installed my vise so that the left side (for left-handers, right side) of the wooden jaw is flush with the side of my workbench. That way your piece of wood is well clamped to shorten it and you can hold the piece that falls off with your free hand. Greetings from Flanders (Belgium)
Look at 8:15, when the mark for the center hole is being made. Note that the center, threaded rod is clearly sagging - not parallel with the two smooth rods. I was not surprised that it was too low! Note also that the part you already attached would make a fine template. So would the paper template you showed in the first place.
Thank for the video. I ordered a Yost vise and now it’s going to be more easy to install. And also have a question? How bad can be a vertical 2X4 lumber for a workbench top. Thanks in advance 😊
That’s the one I bought for my bench. It arrived cracked in half and since it was the beginning of corona I couldn’t return it. And I also have to admit, installing it was not fun…
Rex, thanks for the "Heads up!" On my second try, I removed the guide bars from the vise, drilled the 1 3/8" hole for the screw and then could press the plate against the jaws for as the alignment template. I'll build the anti-racking jig soon - the vise is not precision. The Quick-stack is my first workbench, a solid start to quality shop work. Thanks!
for your new bench, include the tip to buy 2x12s instead of 2x4s. The lumber is usually better, less knots or SYP instead of whitewood, and the cost is usually the same or less. Well worth the money for the "upgrade".
@@eloscuro704 For sure I would use a table saw to rip them. Howerver, you do have to put a ton of work planing the 2x4s or the ripped 2x12 (or 2x10s) so I don't see "accurate" as a requirement. If you have a great love of hand ripping saws that will work, but a jig saw or circular saw will also work. Even if you get the straightest construction lumber, they have rounded corners (you don't want a ribbed workbench) and are never that straight anyway. Honestly, the SYP is an enromous upgrade over whitewood, and that's worth it just from that perspective. I like to plane it better, and if you're spending time planing you might as well plane something you like.
@@RexKrueger the face was the same as yours and if I'd used a store bought oak dowel for which I had a matching drill bit rather than a long rectangle it would have been easier than trying to get all the holes to line up like you did here.
Love your videos Rex, but I do have a question. It looks like you are still using a pencil for basically every thing you are marking. I get your videos are geared toward new craftsman, mostly considering budget, but a marking knife of some kind be thrown in somewhere. A pencil has its uses but a knife is better for accuracy. Considering the concept of your channel, why not grab an X-Acto knife and use that as a marking knife. The #11 blades are widely available and cheap, and the starting knife itself is only a few bucks. Maybe give it some thought, I think it fits perfectly with your concept and a marking knife would really elevate accuracy in the projects you show us. Rant over. Love your work and look forward to your bench build!!!
I bought the plans and the video for the quick stack workbench. This was the vise suggested to buy. This video will surely help when I am ready to install it. I have a thought about your video and plan products if you don't mind a little feedback. I think the quality of the plans was very good! I would love it if you would include a certain number of e-mail questions with the video series. Maybe you could set up a special e-mail that is mentioned in the video series alone to limit junk e-mail. For example: I'm having a terrible time finding Southern Yellow Pine in Connecticut and would have loved being able to simply ask what a good replacement would be. I wouldn't mined paying an extra bit for that. Maybe you could have that as a "premium" package since your time is worth paying for. Who knows it might even lead to a few more patreons? :) I am learning a lot from your videos and probably more importantly they are giving me the courage to try doing some of the stuff you're showing us. I look forward to more.
I'm gonna be honest. It still looks a lot easier than making a leg vise. The leg vise require constructing the chop/jaw and figuring out how to make/use a spacer or guide at the bottom the the leg vise, and if you want to install the leg vise anywhere other than right in front of the leg, you need to angle it or you have to be creative with how you set up your guides. This seems to require much less problem solving. you decided where you want it, figure out what it needs to screw in to, and drill holes for the guides and screw. When I installed a vise like this into my bench it was conceptually very simple, but just took some time to right.
Awesome looking new bench Rex. It’s similar to Paul Seller’s more recent bench version with the tool well. When I built your English joiner bench, I used this 10” Yost vise and a quick release Yost 10” vise instead of the leg vise mainly due to the cost of the leg vise screw. There was a Yost version and a knock off within $10 on amazon. The scaffold screws were easily the same or more unless I bought them in 4-7 unit bulk and paid $75 of shipping directly to a construction equipment supplier at the time. Throw in the coat of lumber, and it didn’t make sense with prices at the time to spend similar or more for more work to make a leg vise compared to the Yost 95% ready to go vises. I used the red oak versions of the stair treads from your leg vise video for the chops and glued them 3 layers thick. They’ve worked well for me for a year now, and my main issue when installing was that I somehow put the vise from this video on out of square. It closes with about a 1/2” difference from right to left. I’d recommend those to beginners before trying to adapt equally priced leg vise hardware to be honest. Thanks for the great content man. Looking forward to what your new shop opens up for you in 2023
So bummed that I spent 180$ for literally this exact same vice. Exactly the same. But mine was green and said wood river on the box. I got jacked at woodcraft. My mistake. But for 60$ that’s a good deal. Just watch to not overtighten the nuts that go on the racking rails. They strip soooooo easy
I should keep a running rally of what my leg and wagon wheel vice cost me to make, being my Moxon vice cost me the 3/4 10 nuts that's it everything else was cutoff or scrap. including the sprokets and chain that was used to make the hand knobs.
Nice video. As a not-quite-beginner-anymore, vise installations are challenging and terrifying. Thanks for taking some mystery out, and for not glossing over the tricky bits.
Typically cotter pins are reusable. Was this one exceedingly poor quality when you tried to remove it. I have watched plenty of your videos to know you are someone to break stuff. Just curious.
Rex, thank you as always for the amazing and honest walk through of woodworking tools! As a side not, as someone who gets motion sick/vertigo from movements on screens, the small sliding/bouncing transitions played havoc with the vertigo on a cellphone screen.
My fiancé just got two woodworkers vises that he is putting about 5 feet apart on the front of his bench to hold longer pieces and leaving wider legs flush with the front to clamp work to. Would you recommend something different?
9:00 You had that nifty piece of paper with the front bit all marked out... align the 2 holes, and the screw hole will be right on the money :) -Nice bench, btw.
The vevor vise i got didnt come with those little support things that are on the guide rods. Should i drill a block of wood out and make my own? Would that even work?
Man, you ain't kidding. I didn't install this type of vice, but the kind with the metal jaws that you line with wood. I had designed my whole bench in my 3D software, and I wound up measure and modeling up the whole vise as well, as designing that into the front of the bench was a major task that I didn't want to get wrong. I had to cut out notches for the guide bars and screws, and reinforce the wood, and space everything just so it would wind up right where I wanted it. Then the vise itself was rather heavy (and greasy) so dry fitting it over and over was a job. In the end though, it works well, so it was worth it to me.
Haha, made every single one of the mistakes x 2 you made when I installed mine (I made the whole vise from wood and used a cast iron plumbing T for handle end of the end of the screw rod) Wish you made this video a bit sooner!
I installed this vice on my bench; the instructions come with a template for the guide bar and screw holes. You don’t need to knock the roll pin out to get the placement correct. You could also take the under-top hardware, place it on a piece of paper, and trace out the holes for guide bars and screw. When drilling with a spade bit, I found clamping a piece of scrap to the back side of the face was very effective at preventing blowout.
In the process of finding a vice. What is the difference between a face vice like that and a woodworking vice (like the ones w bigger plates in front and the quick release.
Your videos haven't been showing up in my YT feed for the last few months. Good to see you back front and center. That's a fine looking bench for sure.
I have bought the same exact vise for less than 100 € and mine came with quick release system in the screw. So even with a queick relase its pretty cheap
So you never heard of a pair of pliers. Their a tool that grabs things and can bend and straighten metal “things” so as not to waste things unnecessarily.
Rex something I did to combat racking was intentionally install my vise parallel but plane my vise jaw board to slightly taper so that when it racks the jaw straightens out. Seemed to help some.
Same here. I used this vise on my Paul Sellers plywood bench for about 1.5yrs. I found the vise would unevenly grip boards placed above the screw (when edge planing, etc.) when tightened. The fix was to taper the vise jaw a bit. Mine was ash and about 1-5/8" thick. I tapered it so it was 1-5/8" at the top but about 1-1/4" at the bottom. After tapering, the face of the jaw would contact the face of the board being planed evenly across the jaw when tightened.
@@JimHester good tip, thanks. 👍
I installed this vice on my Roubo Bench 5 years ago and still using it. Made several changes:1- ground off the upside-down cast CHINA off the front and painted it the same color as the Record Vice on the end. 2.replaced the wood screws holding the chop with recessed bolts. The screws loosened every use. 3-disgarded the additional guides and use a small collection of inserts to balance the racking otherwise the throat is shortened if I used the additional guides. 4-added leather lining.
I (narrowly) avoided the screw-alignment problem by disassembling the vise and creating a template on a scrap of plywood before drilling into the apron. Then I just placed the template on the apron with double-sided-tape and drilled out the apron holes. Just make sure your template is placed in correct alignment on the apron. The screw is off-center, so if you place the template on the apron flipped around, you'll get a screw hole that is completely wrong.
Wish I saw this earlier. Been struggling with screw alignment. I'll try this.
"This video was supposed to be...easy!" Rex, you should know by now that NOTHING is easy, especially the thing you thought would be. I built this bench and bought this vise and I can say with confidence that I probably wouldn't have been able to mount it properly without this video. Thanks again for the great work! Like most mistakes, those you made in this project will be instructive to us all.
At 9:01, the error goes back to 8:07 where the threaded rod sagged out of line with the guide bars. Disassembling the front seems unneeded when you could just use the back end of the vice or your initial drawing to get that center hole spot on. This is a a great video, and I've always appreciated your candor in showing and explaining the errors and obstacles along the way. This really helps prepare someone for the reality that there will always be errors and obstacles in woodworking. As a tattoo artist friend of mine once said, mastery comes from recovering from your mistakes, not the absence of them.
Your vice recommendation sparked my interest. I'm planning on a new workbench and the vice i currently use is top mounted.
This vice i a good solution for freeing up my precious real estate of my workbench.
Thank you for reminding this kind of setups. 👍
Isn't is always harder than it looks? I think you will find that very few of us are dissuaded by the difficulty.
I am not alone in finding the video inspiring and I can't wait to get to my vice installation. This is because you solved two problems I was having. First, you specified that the vice pad be no more than 4 inches above the support the vice affords it. Now I know that I can install the vice where I wanted to and not worry that the vice pads will break.
Then you also demonstrated the DIY transfer punch. Buying tools, at retail prices, that I don't expect to use much is a deal breaker for me. Now I can custom-make the transfer punches I will need and I won't need to delay while I wait for a lucky find at an estate sale.
Keep on filming those false steps, mistakes and unexpected problems. They are the hallmark of the best teachers. They are your hallmarks. They are why I will be watching your videos as long as you continue making them.
after a tons of videos i finally went with a paul sellers bench based on the scraps i had laying around, but its so similar to your benches I happy to see yet another proper budget bench series coming out soon!
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
For those that don't know this is one of those AI spam bots. While the link doesn't lead you to any malware site, it is promoting spam.
It's like you knew I was about to install this vise to my quick stack workbench
another great video Rex I installed one like this a month ago I know how difficult they are
Hello, Mr. Krueger;
I think I'd have done that (drilling the screw hole) a bit differently.
In my experience, when held level the screw will sag at the unsupported end.
I would have secured the vise, w/ the screw level.
Then I'd raise & lower the unsupported rear end to determine the range of movement.
Half that from the bottom should give a close enough center when the screw hole is 1/4" larger than the screw (1/8" clearance all around).
Even more clearance prolly wouldn't hurt, say 3/16" clearance (3/8" larger than the screw).
Just an idea, I have *not* tried it but it should work.
Great job, & IMO the vise is still a good deal.
If building the bench just compensate for the vise before the bench is completed.
I do like the way you chose to hide the hole but I wonder if it bothers you.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
great looking bench
I just built my first workbench this spring. I bought a Sjoberg vise. It wasn't too bad to install. Very nice to use however. absolutely no racking.
I dunno Rex. Leg vice for the win. Easy, inexpensive, strong like bull.
Another purchasing consideration: currently in my area the price of stair tread at the big-box stores near me make putting together the leg vice significantly more expensive than putting in the full vice, even if I had to buy a small bit of framing lumber to finish off the install.
For my area in Wisconsin, the combination of Vost screw and stair treads would be about $85 before tax right now (Vost screw is just under $59 at the moment, and $26 total for all the stair treads). Currently the Yost vice is on sale for just under $63 and you just need some framing scrap to finish setting that up. From an economic standpoint, the vice is currently the way to go, at least until there's a rush on them and the price goes up.
You don't need to use stair treads. Use pretty much any wood.
Dude just reminds me of the woodworking version of Louis Rossman for some reason.
FYI i'f you're installing this vise in 2024, it doesnt come with the collets anymore, I didnt see a reason to install it so far back in that case, just got it maybe an inch or so back from the front apron
4” is enough.
Twisted vices.
I feel like these comments are directed at me… 🤣🤣
👍
I really appreciate the honesty of you videos. Your retrospection, mistakes, and problem solving really shows what it is like to be a maker.
Came here to say this. Your authenticity and desire to genuinely be of service to the community are why I’m a patron. Happy to support what you do, and I know I’m more than getting my money’s worth!
The first half of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
For those that don't know this is one of those AI spam bots. While the link doesn't lead you to any malware site, it is promoting spam.
Boy, you weren't kidding. Not much room for error here, I screwed up nearly every step. Make sure the receiving piece inside the bench is absolutely parallel to the apron face. Drill oversized holes. Also, make sure you install it in the right location the first time! I learned a lot through trial and error, but I hope never to do this again.
Very picky comment, but if you're going to shim your transfer punch with tape maybe make sure the tape will be inside the holes once installed... 6:30 🙄
8:10 I was like "oh boy, it really looks like the screw is loose and gravity pulling it down, don't mark it like that Rex!". 😢
Also: "...a square of MATCHING wood..." 🤣
....that was the best :D
I made your English joiners bench about 6mo ago and I installed this exact vise on it. Installation on that specific bench is very easy, I opted to use it on the end, so I didn't need to disassemble it at all. Simply clamped it to the bench top, extended the jaw out so it didn't have to be disassembled, retract the jaw so the guide bars hit the trestle, pencil around the bars so I knew where to drill, center punched the screw holes in the vise body under the bench top, take it off, remove the bench top, drill drill drill, put the bench top and vise back on, realize I forgot to mark the screw, do thar a second time, screw it to the bench top, add your vise faces, plane them flat to the bench top, drill a dog hole in the outside face, good to go. Very easy and only should take an afternoon to install!
I had trouble with my install. The bolts I used were undersized so I used washers like in this video. But the vice would move when clamping since the holes had some play. I'm currently looking for bolts with a bigger screw shaft.
Couple of things;
The back of the vise should be up against the rear jaw/apron so it has better support and cant move forward as the vise is used. When it's set back its relying purely on the screws fixing it to the bench to hold it in place as the vise is clamped.
Those D shaped collars are supposed to go on the outside of the back jaw/apron, not behind it.
In use this type of vise will tilt the jaw when its clamped tight with work in it. To help counteract this; plane a slight taper into the front jaw so that it is thinner at the bottom (top touches the rear jaw/apron first) This makes sure that the work will always be gripped at the very top of the jaw when its tightened, and as its tightened the bottom will contact too. If not you may find when its tight it pulls away in the top and is only gripping at the bottom when the jaw tilts, meaning your work will wobble a bit when you're workin (this is vexing). It doesnt really make sense to me that it does this; it just does for some reason, make sure to taper the front jaw a little. A front jaw of 60-80mm (2 3/8 to 3 1/4) makes the vise much more sturdy and will also help with the jaw tilting, a hardwood jaw will help even more. Another factor in the tilting is the depth of the vise (bench top to guide bars) usually this style vise works best at around 75mm (3inch), 100mm (4inch) is around the upper limit.
There are detailed instructions online, I think Veritas might have instructions for this style vise too; I know they used to make one like this so I presume the instructions are still around....... they make instructions for everything, even for a saw 🤔😂
Here are the Veritas instructions, in case anybody is looking for them: www.veritastools.com/Content/Assets/ProductInfo/EN/70G08.01EN.pdf
Arguably, installing them outside is slightly more difficult for beginners. I strongly believe its fine to put them on the back size. On thick top, this is mounted with five #10 2 1/2 inch screws, so its very sturdy already. But its easy enough to add a support block between the collets and the main body. This way, when you squeeze hard, you endup squeezing wood and metal, rather then pulling on the screws. I made the mistake of placing the collet proud of the main body, thinking I'd preserve the wide opening, I don't recommend that, you kind of loose the benefit of having the collet in the first place, and endup with a bit more racking.
You would think it would be fairly easy for them to include a paper pattern to trace the hole locations.
PSA this exact vise was on sale on prime day for like $40 bucks
This was interesting Rex, and kudos to you for keeping in the mistakes and work-arounds !
Looking forward to the bench build !
What did your dad teach you Rex? "If you have the time to do it over, you had the time to do it right the first time." Just sayin 😉
I know, I've had to do it over some many times and my dad's words echo in my head every time. I'm sure I would have done the same as you did here.
Thanks for another fine video sir, worts and all. 😄
I had better get my order in for my Yost vice, before the Rex Effect sells them out, or drives the price up.
I don't think that will happen here....I hope.
,a cool video keep up the great content.. Thank you……
At 08:10 I yelled at my monitor "Rex! Stop it! It's not aligned properly!!" ... well, I did my best but he obviously couldn't hear me and so fate took its course ... 😂
What about a workbench that doesn't have a wood apron like this, just the wooden table top?
Excellent! It was great to see "Rex figures it out" again! Thanks for the honest appraisal of the level of difficulty. I suspect I'll be doing a leg vice when I build my Quick Stack!
Glad to, also, be a new Patron. Thanks for all you do!
Welcome to the community!!
Leg vices are horrible horrible horrible for bowmaking
Just added the exact same vise about a month ago. Jointer's bench with a 2x10 apron. Just flip the bench on it's top it made it so much easier. A little trouble with the mounting hardware and filing for the handle. All said and done mine works great. Good and cost-effective!
I literally just finished installing this Yost vice last week from your plans…😂. Makes me feel better to know I’m not just a dumb dumb as it took me a few days and several fixes to get it right.
I didn't know I needed this video so thank you Rex. I built a decent first bench and am not ready too build a 2nd. My biggest issue right now is work holding. Now time too go down a rabbit hole of vice installing!
I live in Norway and the prize was not scary, but shipping and taxes was more than the prize of the vise.
I made a version of your low Roman workbench that was 2 boards narrower to make it more portable to take outside and had to install a 7" vice on the end, without running afoul of the legs and had to carve out a large recess on the underside to do it and drive the lag bolts in an awkward way, but it got done, even though I had never installed one before. Not easy, but totally worth the trouble.
Rex, I used a very similar vise for years. One handy location consideration - not everyone will see this the same, is to set the jaws flush with the END of the bench as well as the top. That makes it very easy to cross cut pieces without indulging positioning gymnastics or a bench hook. Sadly the cheap hardware I had tends to wrack badly without a spacer. I decided to spring for a Wilton 10-inch bench vise. No guide bars at all. But expensive.
Cannot agree more, while there are work-arounds such as larger face plates and shims, its a pain when all you want to do is to quickly crosscut a board with a hand saw without having it wiggle all over the place. The key is planning ahead when you design your bench. Wish I had thought of that with my current iteration.
Sadly, the leg is in the way on this specific one.
That's one of the reasons I worked for more than a decade with up to four wood-jawed screw clamps before I even bothered getting a personal vice. I started with an 8 inch clamp... and eventually ended up with a pair of 8's and a pair of 12's... Worth their weight in GOLD. ;o)
When i mark water points when installing a vanity, i have in the past put a bit of tap grease on the points where they punch out of the wall amd just push the vanity back till they touch
Leaves a removable mark right where i need, then drill am oversized hole. Never missed yet
...nice 👍
I don't know how the price differs, but I've found that a piece of black pipe with two end caps makes an awesome handle for vices. I have it on both of my leg vices and my face vice, and I love it. Disassembly is a breeze!
The webbing between my index finger and thumb turned to hamburger just reading this!
@@benjamingiese841 Haha all I can say is I'm getting pretty good at stopping the vice when the handle isn't in a vertical position, or I make sure my hand gets out of there in a hurry. I've only smashed my thumb web once so far with that handle, but that left one hell of a blood blister.
@@notreallymyname3736 you're a faster learner than I!
One quick thing, I have this vice and learned the hard way that they work A LOT better if you use a 3" thick front chop with the holes drilled very accurately. This takes a ton of racking pressure of of the three silly screws that are supposed to hold the chop. Once I did that I started loving this vice. Also, consider facing the chop with leather, it makes a big difference.
I wish I knew what you were saying because I'm about to install mine. guess I'll google some of your terms.
@@jarroddavis4025 in the video Rex uses a 1.5" piece of wood for the moving jaw of the vise. By making that 3" thick the thicker wood in the moving jaw will put the twisting force on the guide rods rather than the three screws that hole the front jaw on the vise. There is a lot of twisting force when something small is clamped near the top of the vise (which is a very common scenario). Hope that helps.
@@tompossin5883 thanks. I will incorporate that.
I made a twin screw vice with a long, thick threaded rod that I cut in half, two nuts, and some scraps like a 4x4. Total cost? About $4. It works great!
I'm in the middle of building a 2800mm continental workbench with face and tail vice from the dead ash in the area . Boy, I wish you could have made all the mistakes first! Thanks for the video.
Nice! I bought a Chinese made quick release vice at a yard sale. My bench has multiple uses so modifications to it for the vice have not been an easy decision. It may have a motorcycle engine on it next week. You just proved my hesitance.
I am very much looking forward to seeing that new bench, Rex. I'm about to build a bench. I was going to go for your English jointer's bench, but I really wanted to include a tool well on it. I'm thinking I will likely copy your new one, but use lamented 2x4s for the top
Add a leather lining too. Improves grip and also lessens potential damage to wood from overtightening
Or cork
There are lots of Record woodworking vices on ebay and the like for prices less than that.
Even in the US? I bought a Parkinson (15 with quick release) vise recently for £40 ($45) in the UK, which needed a good bit of work. It's brilliant, solid as a rock and no chance of racking. I have one similar to that in the video as an end vice, but I'm considering getting rid of it as it racks quite badly after a few years (my one didn't have the additional third guides though). I only really need a face vise anyway. I would urge anyone in the UK to get an old Record, Woden or Parkinson rather than anything new and cheap, the value for money is just impossible to beat. I took mine apart, ground off the rust and grime, painted and put back together. That gives a better understanding of the tool (although it's fairly simple), and well worth doing. The only warning I'd give is to never leave your fingers in it when operating the quick release! That thing can grip.
Clear and very useful video Rex.
I have installed my vise so that the left side (for left-handers, right side) of the wooden jaw is flush with the side of my workbench. That way your piece of wood is well clamped to shorten it and you can hold the piece that falls off with your free hand.
Greetings from Flanders (Belgium)
Insane timing i literally just finished my new bench and received my yost vice yesterday.
Look at 8:15, when the mark for the center hole is being made. Note that the center, threaded rod is clearly sagging - not parallel with the two smooth rods. I was not surprised that it was too low!
Note also that the part you already attached would make a fine template. So would the paper template you showed in the first place.
Thank for the video.
I ordered a Yost vise and now it’s going to be more easy to install.
And also have a question?
How bad can be a vertical 2X4 lumber for a workbench top.
Thanks in advance 😊
That’s the one I bought for my bench. It arrived cracked in half and since it was the beginning of corona I couldn’t return it. And I also have to admit, installing it was not fun…
Rex, thanks for the "Heads up!" On my second try, I removed the guide bars from the vise, drilled the 1 3/8" hole for the screw and then could press the plate against the jaws for as the alignment template. I'll build the anti-racking jig soon - the vise is not precision. The Quick-stack is my first workbench, a solid start to quality shop work. Thanks!
Thanks a ton for this
for your new bench, include the tip to buy 2x12s instead of 2x4s. The lumber is usually better, less knots or SYP instead of whitewood, and the cost is usually the same or less. Well worth the money for the "upgrade".
One downside is that you have to cut it on a table saw to get accurate rips, and that can be tricky. Of course you also have to have a table saw. :)
@@eloscuro704 For sure I would use a table saw to rip them. Howerver, you do have to put a ton of work planing the 2x4s or the ripped 2x12 (or 2x10s) so I don't see "accurate" as a requirement. If you have a great love of hand ripping saws that will work, but a jig saw or circular saw will also work. Even if you get the straightest construction lumber, they have rounded corners (you don't want a ribbed workbench) and are never that straight anyway.
Honestly, the SYP is an enromous upgrade over whitewood, and that's worth it just from that perspective. I like to plane it better, and if you're spending time planing you might as well plane something you like.
I bought just the screw and made a face vice for it. Uses a shop made wooden guide bar morticed throught the skirt and works really well.
That's a great style of vise and I totally approve. I think you have to already be a pretty decent woodworker to make one.
@@RexKrueger the face was the same as yours and if I'd used a store bought oak dowel for which I had a matching drill bit rather than a long rectangle it would have been easier than trying to get all the holes to line up like you did here.
A month ago, I also installed vise for my woodworking table. : P ua-cam.com/video/ssxrQOCuVu0/v-deo.html
Love your videos Rex, but I do have a question. It looks like you are still using a pencil for basically every thing you are marking. I get your videos are geared toward new craftsman, mostly considering budget, but a marking knife of some kind be thrown in somewhere. A pencil has its uses but a knife is better for accuracy. Considering the concept of your channel, why not grab an X-Acto knife and use that as a marking knife. The #11 blades are widely available and cheap, and the starting knife itself is only a few bucks. Maybe give it some thought, I think it fits perfectly with your concept and a marking knife would really elevate accuracy in the projects you show us.
Rant over. Love your work and look forward to your bench build!!!
This was a hilarious watch. Likes and comment for your benefit :)
Why these companies don’t provide a paper template on their web sites is a huge reflection of their goals.
Well well, that was interesting in many ways Rex. Thanks, very enjoyable and informative.
Bob
England
I bought the plans and the video for the quick stack workbench. This was the vise suggested to buy. This video will surely help when I am ready to install it. I have a thought about your video and plan products if you don't mind a little feedback. I think the quality of the plans was very good! I would love it if you would include a certain number of e-mail questions with the video series. Maybe you could set up a special e-mail that is mentioned in the video series alone to limit junk e-mail. For example: I'm having a terrible time finding Southern Yellow Pine in Connecticut and would have loved being able to simply ask what a good replacement would be. I wouldn't mined paying an extra bit for that. Maybe you could have that as a "premium" package since your time is worth paying for. Who knows it might even lead to a few more patreons? :)
I am learning a lot from your videos and probably more importantly they are giving me the courage to try doing some of the stuff you're showing us. I look forward to more.
I'm gonna be honest. It still looks a lot easier than making a leg vise. The leg vise require constructing the chop/jaw and figuring out how to make/use a spacer or guide at the bottom the the leg vise, and if you want to install the leg vise anywhere other than right in front of the leg, you need to angle it or you have to be creative with how you set up your guides.
This seems to require much less problem solving. you decided where you want it, figure out what it needs to screw in to, and drill holes for the guides and screw. When I installed a vise like this into my bench it was conceptually very simple, but just took some time to right.
I’m installing the Rockler version of this vise currently, and this gave me some ideas. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome looking new bench Rex. It’s similar to Paul Seller’s more recent bench version with the tool well. When I built your English joiner bench, I used this 10” Yost vise and a quick release Yost 10” vise instead of the leg vise mainly due to the cost of the leg vise screw. There was a Yost version and a knock off within $10 on amazon. The scaffold screws were easily the same or more unless I bought them in 4-7 unit bulk and paid $75 of shipping directly to a construction equipment supplier at the time. Throw in the coat of lumber, and it didn’t make sense with prices at the time to spend similar or more for more work to make a leg vise compared to the Yost 95% ready to go vises. I used the red oak versions of the stair treads from your leg vise video for the chops and glued them 3 layers thick. They’ve worked well for me for a year now, and my main issue when installing was that I somehow put the vise from this video on out of square. It closes with about a 1/2” difference from right to left. I’d recommend those to beginners before trying to adapt equally priced leg vise hardware to be honest. Thanks for the great content man. Looking forward to what your new shop opens up for you in 2023
You can shop from Japan here at Amazon USA,
There are things you don't have here.
So bummed that I spent 180$ for literally this exact same vice. Exactly the same. But mine was green and said wood river on the box. I got jacked at woodcraft. My mistake. But for 60$ that’s a good deal. Just watch to not overtighten the nuts that go on the racking rails. They strip soooooo easy
I should keep a running rally of what my leg and wagon wheel vice cost me to make, being my Moxon vice cost me the 3/4 10 nuts that's it everything else was cutoff or scrap. including the sprokets and chain that was used to make the hand knobs.
Rex: I'm running these in with a socket wrench but you can use a crescent wrench if that's all you've got.
Me: Impact wrench. Got it.
I take my Record vise off old assembly benches and it goes with me to my new workshop. Texas to California to North Carolina.
Nice video. As a not-quite-beginner-anymore, vise installations are challenging and terrifying. Thanks for taking some mystery out, and for not glossing over the tricky bits.
Typically cotter pins are reusable. Was this one exceedingly poor quality when you tried to remove it. I have watched plenty of your videos to know you are someone to break stuff. Just curious.
Rex, thank you as always for the amazing and honest walk through of woodworking tools! As a side not, as someone who gets motion sick/vertigo from movements on screens, the small sliding/bouncing transitions played havoc with the vertigo on a cellphone screen.
My fiancé just got two woodworkers vises that he is putting about 5 feet apart on the front of his bench to hold longer pieces and leaving wider legs flush with the front to clamp work to. Would you recommend something different?
Funny - when I saw you drill the hole for the screw I yelled, "Nooooo!" I could see the screw was sagging. Will look for a different vise though.
I think your link points to the wrong Yost vise. Link is to a Yost F9WW 9" vise. The one in your video appears to be a Yost F10WW 10" vise.
Yeah, I'll just stick with my Big Leg Vise on my Joiner's Bench. 🙂
Which work bench do you recommend now? The minimum timber or your original English joiners bench??
Hello Rex, video unrelated question, how is this bench better, or compared to a wall fixed bench?
Good stuff, as always, Rex. I've had this vise in my wish list for a year. This helps a ton.
9:00 You had that nifty piece of paper with the front bit all marked out... align the 2 holes, and the screw hole will be right on the money :) -Nice bench, btw.
The vevor vise i got didnt come with those little support things that are on the guide rods. Should i drill a block of wood out and make my own? Would that even work?
I noticed that you put the grain horizontally for the jaw. Vertical would have been stronger
Man, you ain't kidding. I didn't install this type of vice, but the kind with the metal jaws that you line with wood. I had designed my whole bench in my 3D software, and I wound up measure and modeling up the whole vise as well, as designing that into the front of the bench was a major task that I didn't want to get wrong. I had to cut out notches for the guide bars and screws, and reinforce the wood, and space everything just so it would wind up right where I wanted it. Then the vise itself was rather heavy (and greasy) so dry fitting it over and over was a job. In the end though, it works well, so it was worth it to me.
Haha, made every single one of the mistakes x 2 you made when I installed mine (I made the whole vise from wood and used a cast iron plumbing T for handle end of the end of the screw rod) Wish you made this video a bit sooner!
"4 inches is a good balance between capacity and strength"
That's what I tell my wife. 🤔
I installed this vice on my bench; the instructions come with a template for the guide bar and screw holes. You don’t need to knock the roll pin out to get the placement correct. You could also take the under-top hardware, place it on a piece of paper, and trace out the holes for guide bars and screw.
When drilling with a spade bit, I found clamping a piece of scrap to the back side of the face was very effective at preventing blowout.
I didn't get instructions or a template. Just parts.
In the process of finding a vice. What is the difference between a face vice like that and a woodworking vice (like the ones w bigger plates in front and the quick release.
Could you not have used the vise body as a template for marking and drilling the apron? That way you don't need to disassemble the handle.
Your videos haven't been showing up in my YT feed for the last few months. Good to see you back front and center. That's a fine looking bench for sure.
I have bought the same exact vise for less than 100 € and mine came with quick release system in the screw. So even with a queick relase its pretty cheap
yes they are tricky, done lots in the 45+ yrs of woodworking
So you never heard of a pair of pliers. Their a tool that grabs things and can bend and straighten metal “things” so as not to waste things unnecessarily.
1 year later and for 15 more dollars you can get a quick release vise at harbor freight