Love the information you both present. Always interesting and amusing. Can you please do a video or a short on how to divide/section Cyclamen and/or how to grow from cuttings?
They are very risky to divide and I don’t recommend it. The only species that can be cutting grown are those that have a stalk from the tuber that the leaves then sprout from and this whole structure is severed from the tuber and grow as a cutting a highly time consuming task for almost no return. I prefer to isolate any interesting plants and hope for. percentage of like seedlings. Regards Stephen
I have a very different routine for growing them, and cyclamen probably account for 25% of all the plants I cultivate. I'm in the UK, and opposite side of the world and latitude. been growing them for at least 10 years now and only lost 4 out of about 50 mature plants. all 4 lost were lost within the first year due to tuber rot and were probably already damaged and on their way out when I bought them. so second year of buying i prodded my finger into each pot before buying a plant to check there was a reasonable size and hard tuber in the pot somewhere. The rest are all doing very well, some started of as 1cm ultra cheap baby specimens, and now have like 5cm diameter tubers, others now have even bigger upto 10cm diameter ( that's 30cm circumference ) tubers, I have a considerable variety of species and all the colour spectrum I could possibly get my hands on. they flower for over 6 months of the year ( slightly staggered between species ) , and I often pollinate them with an air puffer, so they produce pods, which are interesting to look at for 4 more months of the year., leaving just 2 months of leaf only, i never let them go dormant. mine remain very lush and green all year round, most leaves lasting more than 1 year and get quite big, I never let them go dormant, and I get a great deal of continuous blooms each year, like a carpet of flowers above the greenery. I plant them with the top 1/5 ( 20% ) of the bulb above the soil or compost and i always top water, quite generously. when you buy them the bulb is always buried, i wait till Spring then replant in bigger pot with bulb partially protruding and water daily so it grows more roots and more leaves. i don't pull any wilting leaves or flowers until they have almost completely dried up, as pulling still green ones is a bit tough and damages other healthy leaves and flowers. If you don't pollinate and plants are indoors away from insects, the flowers last much longer, once pollinated the flower withers , drops off and pod starts to form. unpollinated flowers wither including stem reasonably quickly. 50 mature plants is enough for me, but yet again this year i'm experimenting growing over10 different varieties from seed, and have around 50 saplings growing quite healthily for the past 4 months on an east facing bathroom window, i'm giving them plenty of light and moist compost, germination success of the tiny seeds was very high, a surprising average 80% germinated , nearer 95% for the hardy reds, and down to about 25% for the rarer varieties. I have no idea what to do with my 50 new saplings, as i usually only experimented with planting dozen seeds/pods. This year I planted the seeds at end of July, about 1 month after seed pods dried up and were opening up, i removed the seeds from pods, let them fully dry for a couple of weeks and then planted them 5 at a time in to tiny pots, only 5mm below surface, at end of July. I keep the compost wet by misting over it daily. a propagator would probably work even better. in previous years I thought the pods were the seeds, so planted whole pods that were not even fully matured, but some saplings still sprouted. i don't presoak the seeds, but that might be advisable as you sometimes get a sprout with a hard seed pod stuck on its top preventing leaf from being able to get out, trying to remove this husk is very tricky and will end with you snapping top of sapling off, nevertheless it will still recover and produce a second leaf as its already formed a tiny 2-3mm baby tuber in the ground when the root grows first. I find no problems with overwatering, so long as you don't pour water on to the top of the bulb, I even use moisture retaining compost sometimes, but rough garden soil works just as well, easily done as my bulbs protrude above the soil, ( that way I can see how big they are getting too ), underwatering will cause leaves to droop, wither and fall off, so I water all year round, usually daily for 6 months and gradually less in autumn and winter. temperature wise, they are also not too fussy, most of the time they are kept between 10 and 20 deg C, but in mid winter temperature can drop down to 0 deg C, and in summer upto 25 deg C, if temperature looks to be going to get over that, for those very few English weeks or days, I do move them to somewhere cooler and more shady. my only regular problem is slugs and snails, if I notice a healthy leaf mysteriously wither, i look for tell tale sign that a slimy creature has come along and chewed a chunk out of the bottom of the stem, I am then on a mission to find the culprit as soon as possible, as the little slimesters will keep chewing at leaves every night, and hiding by day, until you find them. The tubers get bigger each year, the leaves get bigger each year, the flowers get taller and bigger each year, and the seed pods get bigger each year. I'm growing some monster Cyclamen now compared to how they were when I bought them, and i've been reliably informed a single bulb/tuber can live for 100 years. I've never researched how others grow their Cyclamen , just worked it out by trial and error over about 10 years, I have 1 hardback book on them ( by Richard Maatsch 1971 ), looks to be very detailed and informative , but it's in German so I can't read it, but it does contain many black and white photos, so I can identify plants and search out new species varieties from it.
I live in the Pacific Northwest, Portland Oregon. I had a huge colony of the summer cyclamens growing in my yard. At first I was very confused as to what they were because I was used to seeing the commercial ones but these beautiful plants would pup every summer and my yard around the shed would be covered with flowers, I loved them. I moved to a new location about Teo years ago and I’m planning on planting more of them at our new home. Thank you so much for this video, it was very informative! Nandy-
We enjoy cyclamen in Dallas, Texas USA starting in late February. Ground is still too cold for planting but love their color and stunning silvery leaves in pots. Thanks for your entertaining and educational channel!
Wonderful informative show! I have a tuber plant that was given to me by a friend that blooms in shade from spring to late summer in zone 9 that may be a cyclamen...not sure but now very interested to collect them for my garden thanks to you! Love you guys!
You two are hilarious. I finally know why my cyclamen (and I'm with Matthew; in Indiana USA, I call it SEYE clamen) never came up: It wasn't dry enough. Thanks for the info!
What a lovely find full of advice - just bought 3 cyclamen 2 weeks ago here in Sputh Africa + once flowered am going to try + plant them in a new bed i have just made mixed with azaleas The bits i can see of yr garden looks absolutely amazing - going to subscribe😊
Thank you once more, for a fantastically interesting video. I just learnt today, that I¨ll be travelling for work to Uppsala next May, and Steve´s comment about the Botanical Garden has given me the great idea of visiting!!!. Looking forward to that, thanks again!!!!!
I come across your channel when I was searching for Furcraea Paramentieri... the details of your videoa are very good. Thank you for the wonderful videos
Love y’all! Yes I love love Cyclamen!! Great info! I live in zone 8b/9on gulf coast pensacola fl.. and have grown this but now I know the STATS FROMN YOU STEVEN AND WILL TRY IN MY Dry shade BED I THOUGHT THEY WANTED MOIST CONDITIONS..will try again ...
I live in Israel. Nurseries sell tubers of the C. Persicum which is also common in the wild. I was able to grow the tubers for many years. However, the florist's cultivars have been very challenging to me. Although they belong to the Persicum species, they seem reluctant to go dormant in summer. They initially went dormant but soon began to re-sprout. When I watered them they rotted. If I tried to keep them dormant and hold watering, the tuber would shrivel and dry. All I get is an empty wrinkled shell. Plant sellers tell me these don't grow tubers, but my experience show that they do. However, they don't last long. Is there a way to keep them for more than just a season?
In your climate I would have thought that they would be fine in the ground and getting what water nature gives. It is a matter of balance with them getting just enough moisture to stop them shrivelling or rotting. Regards Stephen
My question.... Now I dearly want to plant some into the ground. I have a lot in pots mainly terracotta. I am an avid over waterer. I do have three big trees to drink the water. Could I plant them higher above ground wit success do you think Stephen? Next time I see a four pack I'm going to buy a couple and give them a go. Much love from Kerry in Adelaide South Australia x 🙏😇🕊️🇦🇺
I saw Cyclamen hederifolium in a botanical garden in washington. It's strange to think it starts growing in the fall and winter, only to be buried with snow soon after.
Given deciduous shade and a good leaf mould enriched soil I think some of the stronger species like C. hederifolium and coum should be growable. Regards Stephen
@@thehorti-culturalists its illegal to import seeds. Actually the process is pretty difficult. Just wish our feilds were perfumed! Thanks for the sweet video.
Love the information you both present. Always interesting and amusing. Can you please do a video or a short on how to divide/section Cyclamen and/or how to grow from cuttings?
They are very risky to divide and I don’t recommend it. The only species that can be cutting grown are those that have a stalk from the tuber that the leaves then sprout from and this whole structure is severed from the tuber and grow as a cutting a highly time consuming task for almost no return. I prefer to isolate any interesting plants and hope for. percentage of like seedlings. Regards Stephen
I have a very different routine for growing them, and cyclamen probably account for 25% of all the plants I cultivate.
I'm in the UK, and opposite side of the world and latitude.
been growing them for at least 10 years now and only lost 4 out of about 50 mature plants.
all 4 lost were lost within the first year due to tuber rot and were probably already damaged and on their way out when I bought them.
so second year of buying i prodded my finger into each pot before buying a plant to check there was a reasonable size and hard tuber in the pot somewhere.
The rest are all doing very well, some started of as 1cm ultra cheap baby specimens, and now have like 5cm diameter tubers, others now have even bigger upto 10cm diameter ( that's 30cm circumference ) tubers, I have a considerable variety of species and all the colour spectrum I could possibly get my hands on.
they flower for over 6 months of the year ( slightly staggered between species ) , and I often pollinate them with an air puffer, so they produce pods, which are interesting to look at for 4 more months of the year., leaving just 2 months of leaf only, i never let them go dormant.
mine remain very lush and green all year round, most leaves lasting more than 1 year and get quite big, I never let them go dormant, and I get a great deal of continuous blooms each year, like a carpet of flowers above the greenery.
I plant them with the top 1/5 ( 20% ) of the bulb above the soil or compost and i always top water, quite generously.
when you buy them the bulb is always buried, i wait till Spring then replant in bigger pot with bulb partially protruding and water daily so it grows more roots and more leaves.
i don't pull any wilting leaves or flowers until they have almost completely dried up, as pulling still green ones is a bit tough and damages other healthy leaves and flowers.
If you don't pollinate and plants are indoors away from insects, the flowers last much longer, once pollinated the flower withers , drops off and pod starts to form. unpollinated flowers wither including stem reasonably quickly.
50 mature plants is enough for me, but yet again this year i'm experimenting growing over10 different varieties from seed, and have around 50 saplings growing quite healthily for the past 4 months on an east facing bathroom window, i'm giving them plenty of light and moist compost, germination success of the tiny seeds was very high, a surprising average 80% germinated , nearer 95% for the hardy reds, and down to about 25% for the rarer varieties. I have no idea what to do with my 50 new saplings, as i usually only experimented with planting dozen seeds/pods. This year I planted the seeds at end of July, about 1 month after seed pods dried up and were opening up, i removed the seeds from pods, let them fully dry for a couple of weeks and then planted them 5 at a time in to tiny pots, only 5mm below surface, at end of July. I keep the compost wet by misting over it daily. a propagator would probably work even better.
in previous years I thought the pods were the seeds, so planted whole pods that were not even fully matured, but some saplings still sprouted.
i don't presoak the seeds, but that might be advisable as you sometimes get a sprout with a hard seed pod stuck on its top preventing leaf from being able to get out, trying to remove this husk is very tricky and will end with you snapping top of sapling off, nevertheless it will still recover and produce a second leaf as its already formed a tiny 2-3mm baby tuber in the ground when the root grows first.
I find no problems with overwatering, so long as you don't pour water on to the top of the bulb, I even use moisture retaining compost sometimes, but rough garden soil works just as well, easily done as my bulbs protrude above the soil, ( that way I can see how big they are getting too ), underwatering will cause leaves to droop, wither and fall off, so I water all year round, usually daily for 6 months and gradually less in autumn and winter.
temperature wise, they are also not too fussy, most of the time they are kept between 10 and 20 deg C, but in mid winter temperature can drop down to 0 deg C, and in summer upto 25 deg C, if temperature looks to be going to get over that, for those very few English weeks or days, I do move them to somewhere cooler and more shady.
my only regular problem is slugs and snails, if I notice a healthy leaf mysteriously wither, i look for tell tale sign that a slimy creature has come along and chewed a chunk out of the bottom of the stem, I am then on a mission to find the culprit as soon as possible, as the little slimesters will keep chewing at leaves every night, and hiding by day, until you find them.
The tubers get bigger each year, the leaves get bigger each year, the flowers get taller and bigger each year, and the seed pods get bigger each year.
I'm growing some monster Cyclamen now compared to how they were when I bought them, and i've been reliably informed a single bulb/tuber can live for 100 years.
I've never researched how others grow their Cyclamen , just worked it out by trial and error over about 10 years, I have 1 hardback book on them ( by Richard Maatsch 1971 ), looks to be very detailed and informative , but it's in German so I can't read it, but it does contain many black and white photos, so I can identify plants and search out new species varieties from it.
Well done and keep up the good work. Regards Stephen
I live in the Pacific Northwest, Portland Oregon. I had a huge colony of the summer cyclamens growing in my yard. At first I was very confused as to what they were because I was used to seeing the commercial ones but these beautiful plants would pup every summer and my yard around the shed would be covered with flowers, I loved them. I moved to a new location about Teo years ago and I’m planning on planting more of them at our new home. Thank you so much for this video, it was very informative!
Nandy-
Thanks for watching! And lucky you to have had a colony of the summer flowering ones!
You've converted me. I will buy some tomorrow. Thank you. DA - Vancouver, WA
Excellent!
We enjoy cyclamen in Dallas, Texas USA starting in late February. Ground is still too cold for planting but love their color and stunning silvery leaves in pots. Thanks for your entertaining and educational channel!
Glad that you are enjoying our videos. Regards Stephen
Stephen, Gardening Australia made a big mistake parting ways with you and Matthew is a great presenter in his own right.
Thank you for the plaudits we both appreciate it and I have to say at the risk of self praise, I think so as well. Regards Stephen
A great wealth of information on this great genus.
Thanks for watching!
Amazing. Thankyou for the all the information! Amazing channel. Love you guys !
Our pleasure! Regards Stephen
Wonderful informative show! I have a tuber plant that was given to me by a friend that blooms in shade from spring to late summer in zone 9 that may be a cyclamen...not sure but now very interested to collect them for my garden thanks to you! Love you guys!
Thanks for finding us!
You two are hilarious. I finally know why my cyclamen (and I'm with Matthew; in Indiana USA, I call it SEYE clamen) never came up: It wasn't dry enough. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching!
What a lovely find full of advice - just bought 3 cyclamen 2 weeks ago here in Sputh Africa + once flowered am going to try + plant them in a new bed i have just made mixed with azaleas
The bits i can see of yr garden looks absolutely amazing - going to subscribe😊
Thanks for finding us!
Too fascinating…so many different ones…am going out to smell y autumn flowering ones…great work again…
Thanks for watching!
Thank you once more, for a fantastically interesting video. I just learnt today, that I¨ll be travelling for work to Uppsala next May, and Steve´s comment about the Botanical Garden has given me the great idea of visiting!!!. Looking forward to that, thanks again!!!!!
Have fun! Wish I was coming. Regards Stephen
I come across your channel when I was searching for Furcraea Paramentieri... the details of your videoa are very good. Thank you for the wonderful videos
Welcome! Regards Stephen
Excellent and informative video - thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Love y’all! Yes I love love Cyclamen!! Great info! I live in zone 8b/9on gulf coast pensacola fl.. and have grown this but now I know the STATS FROMN YOU STEVEN AND WILL TRY IN MY Dry shade BED I THOUGHT THEY WANTED MOIST CONDITIONS..will try again ...
Sounds great! Regards Stephen
I live in Israel. Nurseries sell tubers of the C. Persicum which is also common in the wild. I was able to grow the tubers for many years. However, the florist's cultivars have been very challenging to me. Although they belong to the Persicum species, they seem reluctant to go dormant in summer. They initially went dormant but soon began to re-sprout. When I watered them they rotted. If I tried to keep them dormant and hold watering, the tuber would shrivel and dry. All I get is an empty wrinkled shell. Plant sellers tell me these don't grow tubers, but my experience show that they do. However, they don't last long. Is there a way to keep them for more than just a season?
In your climate I would have thought that they would be fine in the ground and getting what water nature gives. It is a matter of balance with them getting just enough moisture to stop them shrivelling or rotting. Regards Stephen
My question.... Now I dearly want to plant some into the ground. I have a lot in pots mainly terracotta. I am an avid over waterer. I do have three big trees to drink the water. Could I plant them higher above ground wit success do you think Stephen? Next time I see a four pack I'm going to buy a couple and give them a go. Much love from Kerry in Adelaide South Australia x 🙏😇🕊️🇦🇺
I would think they would be fine under large tree especially if the soil is well drained, so go for it I say. Regards Stephen
I saw Cyclamen hederifolium in a botanical garden in washington. It's strange to think it starts growing in the fall and winter, only to be buried with snow soon after.
Thanks for watching!
How well do they grow in new york?
Given deciduous shade and a good leaf mould enriched soil I think some of the stronger species like C. hederifolium and coum should be growable. Regards Stephen
I have hardy cyclamen that I just planted ..
Good luck with them!
I love cyclamen! Native in my area of israel. All over! No perfume. 😪 i looked up at a native seeds and bulb store c. Persicum.
Many forms of persicum are well scented and I have heard of seed being available of scented forms. Regards Stephen
@@thehorti-culturalists its illegal to import seeds. Actually the process is pretty difficult. Just wish our feilds were perfumed! Thanks for the sweet video.
Fully sick...lamen