Switched Plug
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- A BS1363 plug which has a switch and neon indicator built in.
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Now I can turn a lamp off THREE TIMES but I would still be thinking... "did I turn it off... off off... or off off off" (say it out loud for a giggle)
Nice
If you have arthritis of the spine or otherwise infirm, you can use your foot or walking stick. 10/10 👍
reckon that's the main market for them?
Your right, changed quite a few plugs over for a family member for exactly this reason.
@@paulf2529 I've seen adapters RF controlled - usually a pack of 4 and a 4-button on/off remote for each. Simply plug into a socket and plug the plug into the adaptor. With 1 possibly 2 including a dimming function. Got a set for my aunt a few years ago.
@@millomweb thanks I will look into those.
@@millomweb - Yes, the RF ones are really good. You usually get 4 channels, and can pair any number of switched loads onto each channel. I use them for the Xmas lights.... one click and they all turn off, anywhere on the property!
It always amuses me that other countries find our switched outlets so bizarre - it seems so normal when you have been used to that all your life, and also so logical - I'd much rather flick the little switch to take something off standby, or provide that extra bit of reassurance that an appliance is definitely off without having to pull the plug. I know in the USA it is common for some outlets to be switched at the door - this is still used sometimes here in the UK but usually for lighting only, and not for our standard 13A rectangular pin outlets, rather for old style 2A or 5A round pin outlets. What do other countries do? I note agent24's post says switched outlets are common in New Zealand.
Almost 100% of Australian outlets are switched too. My mother drives me crazy by switching things off at the wall outlet, because she is too old and stupid to work out how to turn off an appliance like a cooling fan.
I'm switched on when it comes to watching JW videos. Especially when he is plugging away with failed stuff
I notice that all the screws in the plug have got cross heads - I wish all manufactures would do this, as the corresponding driver self centres on the head. No big deal on the bench, but a Godsend when you're trying to tighten terminal screws in an awkward location.
I sort of agree with my only objection being they're made of soft brass usually and so more likely to get damaged and become unusable when they're Philips or pozi than a standard slot
it would also be nice if they used the same type of head on the terminal screws AND the cover/cable grip screws. I hate having to find two screwdrivers
Possibly useful with multi-way extensions.
Yeah, handy if you have maybe a lamp and a TV or something that doesn't get switched off running on the same multi pad.
many multiway have individual switchs
now, at least mine all are
Came to make the same comment.
I got a multi way extension with switches
I found 2 extension cords with 5 individually switched UK outlets in Estonia out of all places._
I got one of those to put on my ZX Spectrum +2 power supply as it's got no switch on the PSU.
EDIT: I also changed the fuse to 3A
I have a Zx spectrum in a box and can’t quite work up the courage to throw it out - probably because I remember the pleasure I got from soldering all the components in and then finding that it worked!
@@richardwallace3477 - Are you sure you mean a ZX Spectrum and not a ZX80 or ZX81? And don’t throw it out, sell it on Sell My Retro or on eBay. Alternatively give it to a charity shop.
Mark 1024MAK your right Mark, it is a ZX81
"Get British Telecom on the situation". Should have given me warning there John - I spat my tea out.
I like these things & have been using them for many years now. I normally buy them from Amazon in multipacks but aways swapped the fuse before
use for a 5 or 10A one, as I have had the odd one fail in the same way with welded contacts.
I had a switched plug something like that in the late 60s/early 70s on my 25 W soldering iron, not to switch it on/off but I had wired a suitably rated diode across the switch so that the iron was on full power when the switch was closed and reduced power when the switch was open - the half-wave rectified mains was enough to keep it warm but ready to quickly heat up to full power when I needed it. It wasn't a consideration at the time, but the power was low so the asymmetry it caused in the mains wasn't an issue.
I tried to find the maker or identify the logo without success, looks like a generic Chinese item. It appears on Amazon under the names "Omega", "Invero", "Lilmacc" and "Pro Elec", also as a discontinued item on Ali Express
Example www.amazon.co.uk/13A-switched-plug-neon-21055/dp/B002RWH0UC/
The maker is Fung Yip Electrical Manufacturing Ltd (or FYM), which is quite a common brand used in Hong Kong. Not sure if they export to the UK.
@@alvinhochun I think they have been a supplier of white-label products to UK retail brands in the past, but I don't think they are currently doing that.
@@gadgetman36 At least the ones I bought from CPC are slightly different from the ones in this video, the basic overall layout is the same, but the logo on the top is missing, the bottom is branded "PMS" and the pickup contacts for the neon have a slightly different design.
If you check out the CPC special offer flyers you can usually get them quite a bit cheaper.
Unfortunately CPC have suspended most of their special offer catalogues at the moment. The only active one is bulk bargins, so there is no discount at the moment for small quantities, but if you want to or more of them you can get them for £1.81 each using codes pl1003787 for white and pl1294487 for black.
A switched plug would useful for Power Strips
This plug is made by Fung Yip Electrical, from Hong Kong.
In NZ our sockets are switched too, it baffles me that any country would have unswitched sockets.
Same here - seems so normal in the UK. I asked in a separate comment what other countries have.
On the market place of my city,16A Schuko sockets are mountedf on wooden poles and connected to the aerial bundled cable without fusing.
The aerial is protected with 80A fuses.Nobody cares about it until it burns down or someone gets shocked.
And you are scared from unswitched sockets?
@@mernok2001 OK, that is scary! Where is your city?
I believe that original German wiring to Schuko sockets had the mains voltage split, so both pins were "live" at 110v. The only sensible way to switch off in this case is to remove the plug. Perhaps this is where the tradition of removing the plug originated.
Actually looks to be quite nicely made. Unusual in an age of Chinese imports. Unless it predates that of course.
I’ve had one of them and it failed in same way but mine was arcing on switch off was bought from Wilko a good few years ago
You can get the same plug on Amazon just over £20 for 4 or if you want the black ones then its £10 for two !!!
great plug for "OCD", Now I can turn the socket off, switch the plug off, and pull it out. Lets see thoses electo-pixie's burn my house down now. :)
Pixies leaking out of a broken ring, or incompetent electrician I mean kitchen fitter
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
A strangely deep voice rumbles in the sky - "What did you say......?", 2 seconds later direct lightning strike. Challenging the electro-pixies like that is just asking for trouble.
@@chillybrit2334 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The Chinese are going to release their own version of one of these with switched earth. Very useful if you want your electrical appliance to have the electrocution risk of Chinese-manufactured items.
No big deal. The Chinese don't connect the Earth anyway.
I have several in use on my work bench , very useful and handy for a quick isolation, bought from Farnell's , excellent quality and value for money.
Thats the first time in my 50 years on this planet living all my life in th uk that i have ever seen one of these.
I remember Focus DIY selling these exact plugs, around 2007 - 08. I had a few of them.
Nice plug
Have just purchaed these from CPC and the spring for the neon light is directly connected to the line pre fuse. Is this allowed?
Looks like a Pro Elec from Farnells.
The big fat switch on the plug is much easier to use with old weak painful arthritic fingers. I wish I had more of them. All new appliances now come with moulded plugs and to cut and dispose of the supplied plug is so wasteful.
Unswitched sockets are more expensive than switched I tend to fit them under kitchen worktops for washing machines and the like
@Harry M yeah less moving parts easier to make "let's charge more"
@@haldo691 More like "Nobody buys these so we need to charge more for the shelf space they waste"
I like the clean lines of an un-switched socket and they can be useful where you don’t want an appliance inadvertently switched off.
@Harry M They are more expensive, because they are less popular - less is produced and stocked in stores, so price is bigger. Economy of scale and free market in action.
@Harry M A fuse isn't necessary in Schuko plugs. In Germany the outlet circuits are radial circuits fused with 16A, that's what the outlets and plugs are rated for. In the UK the circuits are ring shaped and usually fused with 32A in most cases. As an alternative a radial circuit with 20A, but that's the more modern method. The plugs and the cords connected to this are not rated for this high current, the plugs themself are rated for 13A, so you'll have to implement a fuse. So it's actually a necessity for them to implement a fuse, because most cords are 0.75, 1 or 1.5mm² which are definitely not capable of handling 32A.
And that's a thing you also learn here in Germany: Whenever you reduce the size of the conductor, you'll have to check if the smaller size is also capable of handling the current. If not, you'll have to implement a lower rated fuse/MCB.
Unpopular things are in most cases more expensive than the popular ones. A nice example for this are cars. In Germany most cars have a manual transmission. In the US most have automatic transmission. Here the manual transmission is cheaper and the automatic one causes additional costs. In the US it's the other way around, automatic is cheaper than manual.
Great films John. I make electrical principles films if you wish to take a look
I have a couple of really old brown bakelite MK switched plugs on 1950's HMV fan heaters, both still working well after 65 years!
I remember those! With the rocker switch sat on top of the plug.
Years ago in the 1970s electronics was a hobby of mine and at the time one of the magazines, maybe Practical Wireless or perhaps ETI suggested fitting a miniature switch into a 13amp plug which switched a silicon diode in and out of circuit so that your soldering iron could be switched to standby power whereby it would keep warm but not overheat the tip and heater when not currently needed. I built one of these and it worked well but all these years later I now realise how potentially dangerous it was and how much easier it would have been to do it (relatively) safely with a plug like this which already had the switch built in and didn't rely on epoxy resins to retain the switch!
I built a control box with a variable resistor as the control (there was more to it, that was purely a control) that meant I could control the temperature, there's a neon on it to say when there's power and another that lights when it's at temperature. Quite handy and 30 odd years later, still working beautifully.
Saves me buying a fancy soldering station... And it was a wee project to build at the time too.
Thanks for the memories, I can remember that as my Dad made one for his soldering iron ,then made one for me, with me helping him build it, mine was made out of old brown plug base with immersion heater switch crafted on to it
Still got somewhere although it not used any more ,shame I cannot post a picture of it here
I too dabbled in the 70's, you could see and work with electronic components in them days not like now where you need a friggin microscope.
I used to get Hobby Electronics and some time ETI. Oh they were the days 😄😄😁
wouldnt pass a pat test though, doesnt have guards to stop the fingers going around the plug when plugging in, not that you really need it if you have the sleeves on the live and neutral pins, but i wouldnt put my name on it lol
JW is on about plugs.... Well he needs to live pin this comment then,
What about the crack in the switch?
Indeed !
Would be better to have an side ground 230V - center grounded 240V for travellers over Atlantic at least for resistive (non rectified) current. With 3 from 4 wires used switching neutral connector between opposite hot wire {grounding the neutral}(in US) and neutral wire regaining the ground fault function (in UK). The american power source for this British plug should have diferential in between of the two phases and direct neutral. Condenser second phase motors like (hairdryer, cooling fans, heating fans, massage and cosmetic aplliances - AC~ shavers and trimmers, heating liquid pumps,) might have problems with the third negative harmonic on the second phase if the primary coil of the transformer on the pole isn't tied to the ground like it's used in downtown with single phase transformer with two high voltage inputs(phase to phase). The old style rectifier wouldn't fully charge the batteries even if in low-mid charge level would charge faster due to longer impulse to micropause ratio.
Tesla might like the grounded phase more for full charge. I don't know how their home wall chargers work.
Would be ggood to get those plugs today for when using a extension lead.
I remember jo-jo from the 1980's on a volex cassette reel extension lead series... from around 1987-1990 time, red & black twin socket reels, jo-jo hobby point 6 amp & 10 amp reels, jo-jo power point 13 amp reels, had the bigger all plastic volex plugs using the black base & ret top with red cable... had a couple of them but the 6 amp ones used to get snagged... can't remember if the fuses in the plugs were jo-jo branded or volex branded... I think volex being volex products though so the name jo-jo on a fuse might be one of those fake chinese fuses.
I've got 3 switched plugs about somewhere but not in service, fuses are "alert" branded 13A and inside the plugs, mine are chinese made but are PMS branded & don't have neon lights...
Why would someone use a switched plug for an aquarium pump... usually they're on 24/7... only thing that usually gets switched off in the aquarium is the hood light at night so the fish get some hours of darkness & there's usually a switch on the back or on the power pack with the starter for the light.
Any Kitemark or similar approval mark on the plug? Didn't seem to be. That would be required for the UK market. There were such marks on the fuse (Kitemark plus ASTA mark).
A desk lamp with a pullcord switch with a cord switch, with a switched plug plugged into a switched outlet. I like it
No, you silly thing... You forgot the RF-remote-controlled plug adaptor that the switched plug was plugged into.
@@johncoops6897 don't forget the clappers too
@@felenov - do you install the Clapper before or after the RF adaptor?
@@johncoops6897 probably before
it looks like the adidas trefoil logo
If you think Switched Plugs are rare nowadays, try finding a plug with just a neon indicator. They used to be quite common, but I can't find one anywhere now!
Here's one, but why it's being supplied in the US is a mystery. www.aliexpress.com/item/32785859851.html
Another, again from the US. internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=72140-SPP
What’s not very common in the U.K. are standard white plastic switched sockets with neon indicators. The industrial metal type are however often used by some companies.
Hiya. I have a couple of these.
They were once made by WG
or Volex. I have yet to show them
on my channel, so I would.....
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......recommend right now that you head-on over to *_Wayne's Electrical,_* get up-to-speed with the PLUGS Play List and then *_BAAAAAAANNG_* that subscribe button!
Many ore plugs on their way. *FULL HD 1920 x 1080p* too!
i wouldn't want you to miss out. Whack the subscribe button for Wayne's Electrical today! :D
-Wayne's Electrical.
_1st November 2020, 20.11_
Aside from the safety aspect, one reason switched outlets are so popular in the UK is that the plug is so large, and often the force required to insert and remove them is far more than the US or european types, so the temptation to leave them plugged in is higher. Also stepping on a pins-up UK plug lying beside the outlet is not a pleasant experience!
it's like a d4, but double the pain and three points of contact instead of one.
There was a video of a guy with a treadmill and Legos... I remember watching it and thinking that would be so much worse if it was UK plugs
Fittingly for Halloween today, I dealt with a push dimmer switch which, without anybody touching it, dimmed and brightened itself constantly.....they couldn't even turn it off!
CPC stock code PL10037
I'd always thought 220k a reasonable series resistor value for a little neon like that. I have some from ebay which came with their resistors already soldered/welded in place of one leg and those are 150k, which I did feel was too low. but if the neon is blackening at 220k I might start using 330k or 470k
Generally, the smaller the neon, the higher the resistor. For that size I'd say 470K minimum, and the larger ones 220K minimum.
Yes, I find the common 220K results in a short life for the neon and the resistor runs very hot too. 470K or so is a better choice. The small resistors often fitted are only rated for 200-250V so using a pair in series increases reliability. For some applications you can even go to a few megohms and still get enough light. Running neons at very low current can cause some flicker, though this often reduces or vanishes after a few days of use.
I bought a bunch of iflo/Drayton roomstats that I wanted indicators in. So used neon bulbs but couldn't use the NO contacts as then the neon would indicate circuit status and not stat status. So I used the NC contacts to short out the neon bulb. It means the resistor is powered all the time.
I had one of these but the neon was far too dim so I converted it to LED with a dropper cap/ diode. Was a bit of a fiddle getting all the bits in the housing but it worked....
Not seen a switched plug top before. Sooner have a switched socket outlet, more robust construction, providing it has been made by a reputable manufacturer.
JW, where's this weeks vid?????
I lurve that plug. It doesn't look that old actually. Never seen one before but what a good idea.
Whats coming next JW????
Remember a good few plugs with fuse in the back in the early 70s before my parents moved to Australia. They did sometimes leave the fuse behind as happened here. Always assumed the switched socket was required by regulations but evidently not.
Always feel like the main screw(s) should be gong into metal inserts rather than self-tapping into plastic columns - never seen one fall in two, but they're surely bound to get sloppy if the plug gets opened and closed a few times.
micromark manufactured those plugs the fuse is an MK rebrand
I have some similar to that and they have a makers mark of PMS and a part number of 2138
A quick poll of the nine plugs I can easily access (without standing up...) has them all imprinted with "FUSED". Is it being phased out...?
It's your brain that is phased out !! JW is referring to the fuse being accessible from the pin side, without having to open the whole thing with a screwdriver. Watch again: 1:34 onwards.
MK made a switched plug in the ‘60s.
good for my osd, i can now double switch off items
I initially came across these over a year ago on eBay, while searching for wireable plugs that allow direct access to the fuse, without needing to unscrew the top. Other than these, that feature seems to come only on the molded ones that are pre-fitted to new appliances.
As someone else pointed out, I've found these useful for the more compact and cheaper multi-blocks that lack switches on the individual sockets. On the first one I used I thought the switch was a bit soft, so wasn't surprised when I found it to arc every time I used it, which caused concern. I've since replaced with what seems like a better quality model from a different eBay source, and haven't seen the same problem.
UPDATE: the new one has failed. The live terminal has detached from the fuse. Can anyone recommend a reliable one?
I like your 'collectors item' meter.
Some people collect phone boxes but I don't know anyone who has a Telecom box ! Probably much rarer than the old red boxes !
Still have mine in its case.
New camera setup, JW?? Startlingly sharp pctures.
No - same one that I have been using for years
Hiya mate. Im interested in Knowing what Brand is that Speaker in the background on that shelf behind you ?
Eltax StudioPro 350
@@jwflame cheers
Thanks for your sharing 👍
That's a new one to me. Amazon.uk sell them.
No way 😳 a switch plug.
Thanks for the vid
I’ve got a vintage one with switch and neon.
Me too, and it's now ready-to-watch on my channel. :D
You can find it in the *_PLUGS_* Play List. Oh yes. :D
-Wayne's Electrical.
_1st November 2020, 20.02_
Great vid John. Any chance you could do a video on reed switches please? Would appreciate. 👍
What interests you about Reed switches?
@@brianrussell6988 I've got a chess computer that auto senses the peices, a red led light illuminates for each square. But some of the leds aren't working and the computer is showing and error on the user display. I've been told it's a reed switch problem.
@@williammcgrattan9583 the chess pieces will contain a magnet that will close the Reed switch when you move to the appropriate square which I guess lights the led. If this is the case and you can get into the PCB then it should be easy to change the Reed switch. You have to find a Reed switch that has the same sensitivity. It is likely the Reed switches in the chess board will have been cut to fit into the space on the PCB. Cutting the Reed switch reduces the sensitivity as you are removing ferrous material. You should be able to find a range of Reed switches through Farnell, RS etc. You should give the repair a go as you have nothing to loose. Let me know if you need any other information.
@@brianrussell6988 yes that's my understanding. Thanks for explaining really appreciate. 👍
I only ever used unswitched sockets in kitchens, behind appliances, with a double pole switch above the worktop.
I don't like unswitched sockets at any other time as they're disconnectors and you should never disconnect a load using a diconnector, that's what switches are for.
Generally made by Pro Elec, but without that flower logo on the switch. CPC sell them under their ref PL10037 for about £2.50 + VAT.
Pro Elec is just a brand name used by CPC. In other words, it’s their own brand. But a lot of Pro Elec items are available elsewhere under other brand names.
I've bought these from Amazon in the past and they are very handy as I have a large multi socket power strip from a 2m tall electronics cabinet that is unswitched
When I've used non switched S/O in the past it's to prevent accidental switching off sensitive equipment.
Were the sockets fed from an UPS ?
@@millomweb some were, but also fed cabinets with it's own ups built in .
@@raychambers3646 Little point worrying about something being accidentally turned off if relying on a power supply !
@@millomweb there is when you've got £1000s worth of business going through it with only 20 mins worth of power in reserve .
@@raychambers3646 20 minutes, - can't be that important then.
Do you get range anxiety ?
Something you don't need that could cause more trouble then it gains
Electricity - something you don’t need that could cause more trouble then it gains... 😁
There's a simple fix to fix the arcing just don't ground the metal plate... sarcasm
British power points (or sockets) need a switch because the design of the plug is so big and clumsy that it’s often a struggle to get them pushed in and even harder to pull them out.
Old Man One right, because everyone wants plugs that slip out of the socket with the slightest movement of the cable. Better still if the plugs only partially slip out creating an arc.
@@spencerwilton5831. One doesn’t follow the other. In most countries the plugs plug in and out perfectly safely.
@@maxmullen6337 except that it makes contact with L and N quarter way in meaning put any metal object in there and shock yourself, whereas uk plugs are sleeved, and the safest in the world
@@db-bv5rs . Safe but clumsy and awkward.
@@maxmullen6337 have you every tried one, because there is multiple factors that can cause it to be awkward. For example, dodgy plug or socket or the pins are the wrong dimension which causes the shutters to be really stiff and you have to force it in
I love your channel ,I’m from the states , but why on earth would you want a switch on every receptacle, one more thing is it also true you guys don’t use wire nuts.
40+ years ago most were unswitched, today most are switched. Both types are still available.
Wire nuts haven't been used here for over half a century and even then were not particularly common, typically only being used on certain types of lighting circuit. Receptacles don't need them as they are all designed to accept multiple wires in each terminal.
What type connector is used in place of wire nuts , and have you made a video on this topic. Another question I have is , are the materials for an electrical installation available to the general public like here or must you have a license to purchase them.
@@jenko701 There are several videos on JWs channel comparing connectors mostly a few years ago.
@@jenko701 - for power (socket) circuits (such as 30A, 32A ring circuits or 20A radial circuits), there is no need for any extra connectors as every socket (and fused connection unit) has terminals for line (L, live, hot), neutral (N) and earth (E, ground). Each of which can take at least three 2.5mm squared copper conductors. Junction boxes with three terminals are also available.
For lighting circuits, the standard arrangement is the ‘loop-in’ system, where the feed in cable, feed out cable and the cable to the wall switch or ceiling switch go to a standard ceiling rose. This ceiling rose has four sets of terminals (L in/L out, switched L {SL}, N and E) of sufficient size to take all the required conductors, so no additional connectors are needed.
The alternative arrangement is to wire the feed in cable to the wall switch. In this case either a screw terminal block (cut down from a multi-way screw terminal block/choc block - see commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Leuchterklemme_75dpi.jpg#mw-jump-to-license ) is used. However Wago connectors (see www.wago.com/gb/installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors/classic-splicing-connector/p/222-413 ) are now becoming more common as they are faster to fit.
Where an existing standard ceiling rose is being replaced by a decorative light fitting (which typically only has terminals suitable for one three core (L, N & E) cable, a separate suitable junction box is supposed to be fitted in the ceiling void. But often you will find a multi-way screw terminal block has been used and shoved wherever the DIYer can hide it.
@@jenko701 - there are a number of reasons why it’s more common for our sockets to have switches. The sockets with switches have been encouraged by both fire fighters and safety campaigners for many years. It’s faster and easier with U.K. plugs to use a switch rather than pull the plug out. And now that they have become the most common type, switched sockets are either a very similar price to unswitched, or are cheaper. As most people have got used to, or have grown up with switched sockets, that’s what they are now used to. If they have to replace any sockets, or have their home/business rewired, why would they want something with less features and which is less convenient for the same price?
This video is great for anaesthesia knocked me out in seconds it opened a tiny black hole caused by intense boredom singularity very very dangerous. And i didnt even search this video found me. My you tube algorithm must have decided i needed a sleep. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 stop it jon ward stop it please dint make any more
@@martinr1834 i am an engineer pal. I build big drones for fun. I use stmelectronics flash loaders uart to usb silicon labs interfaces. Cos i cant stand telly so yeah plugs!!!