One of the finest "how-to" vids ever. I come from a family of mechanics. I've been working on my cars for nearly 50 years now. My wife recently acquired a RAV4 that needed a boot replacement - of course, I'm gonna get a heads-up first. Rarely do I find an educator who knows her stuff and can plan and explain the job along with a ton of extra info to ensure that everyone who ever watched this video gets the good-oil on how it's done. My Missus likes it when her car purrs without me getting too peeved so that's gotta be good. Congrats "L35 in Colorado" - as we say in Oz "Top Tradie - You're a bloody legend 😀". Kudos.
Hi, l really love your vedio,it really helps.l just replaced my rav4 left side cv joint.its still making a knocking noise every time l come across bumps and rough surfaces.the noise is just getting worse.
A Blood Legend-exactly right. I have a hard time getting through all the other automotive “bushwacking” videos now. L35 gets you into the darkest regions, gets you back with no wrong turns. Exceptional video craft, scene setup, narrative, references, priceless. Well done L35!
Thank you, again. Why you're not in the top 10 most viewed mechanics on UA-cam baffles me. Time will tell I guess? It's simply unjust. Just so straight forward and completely helpful videos. Attention to detail is, well, attention to detail. Remarkable! Keep it up. Please, keep it up. Thumbs up!! Rav4 owner from down under says, 'thanks again'. If only you knew what almost all mechanics would charge for what you have just shown...you'd be horrified. Stay safe. And a million thanks!
Yes, I agree. It's a shame she doesn't get more views. This video alone should have been 100k. Then again, Toyota probably don't break down that often. Should have done repair video on Chrysler. That's easy 100k views. 😂
I am 33 years old and I constantly work on things and watch different videos to learn an and so new things. This video right here is the best video I have seen explaining how to accurately do something with no questions. Awesome job and I tip my hat to you
Thank you! I have a couple other videos on these axles, which show the boot replacement. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : ) ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Sure! I try to show the lift and jackstand points because I know it can be confusing when working on the axles. You can also put the jackstands under the pinch welds on either side, but if you do that it is best to use those specialized slotted rubber jackstand caps, if possible. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
What an amazing video. You've really got a knack for details and I appreciated every minute of the video from the verbal explanation to the on screen text. Well done and thank you so much for posting this!
This is the most thorough mechanical video I have ever watched, very impressive step by step directions on how to take it apart, and put it back to, tools used and everything. Great job
Fantastic video! I have this job to do for a third time on a 2AR-FE Sienna (it would eat outer CV boots, now a seal leaking). It is surprising how nearly identical the Sienna and RAV 4 suspensions are. I was with you on the pry bar method, managed to make it work but all along I felt I was doing it wrong. Next time is a slip hammer with the right tool and suspending the shaft. I learn soooo much from your videos, particularly on procedures I felt I was ok with. You bring my craft up several levels. You are a real treasure!!
Wow, thanks for your comment and for sharing the similarities with your 2AR-FE job! Yes, I really like a slide hammer for removing these axles when there's limited access. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Thank you for your videos! They are possibly the best on UA-cam as far as detail, part numbers and explanations. You helped me swap my radiator already (a lot of work) and it would have been a nightmare without you! CV is next.
Wow, thanks for your comment -- that makes my day! : ) I try to make the videos helpful so that we can all work with a little more confidence and a little less uncertainty, since there's always a lot of uncertainty in repair work and it can be intimidating. That's so great that you swapped your radiator DIY -- well done! Good luck on your CV axle, too -- thanks again for your comment!
Great video. Most informative,easy to follow video I have seen in long time. I am doing this job on my 99 Rav4 in the morning. Thanks for the HELP. I will use this video instead on my Haynes manual and have it on while doing the job. Thanks again!!
I'm so glad the video helped -- you can combine the info in the Haynes manual with what you see here, since the Haynes manuals sometimes give very practical tips! Good luck : )
I don't even need to do this, but I find your video entertaining and so informative. Your video format should be the model for all automotive repair videos. Love the first part where you go through the overview of the repair with a diagram. Auto parts companies should hire you as the multimedia expert. 👍 The gold standard!
Hi again L35. I am right in the middle of this job on my 1999 rav4 4WD manual with 375,000 miles and got stuck. As it was 2 years ago when i decided to change the timing belt, your video has given me the thing to try next. Thanks again.
Finally finished last night, thanks to your guided videos. I went ahead and changed breakpads and rotors plus ball joints and one stabilizer bar link while I was doing the original job of replacing the CV axles. Thanks again!
Your voice was very soothing i actually forgot that I am about to do both sides on a 98 manual 4 wheel 2 door and thanks for the info concerning the different variations cause I think I bot the wrong ones
I try to make the jobs easier, because I know auto repair as a DIY can be rather intimidating : ) I've also done this job a few times, and have been taught some tricks to make things easier...like that slide hammer to remove the axle! If you're doing this job, check out these other videos I recently did, especially if you're pulling the axles only because you have torn CV boots (I show how to replace just the boots to save money): Front left axle, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Front right axle, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
Thanks! If you're just doing the axles because of torn CV boots, check out these videos, which show how to replace just the boots: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html and for the passenger side, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching! : )
Thank you! I also have videos on replacing the boots for this same model, if that's helpful: Video for the driver's side CV axle boots, AWD auto: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Video for the passenger side CV axle boots, AWD auto: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching! : )
Wow just mind blown the best tutorial I’ve ever seen and I’ve lived half my life on this website. So well thought out and explained, you’re the expert we need and definitely don’t deserve. Thank you for your hard work and teaching me something I needed to know.
Thank you! I have a couple other videos on these CV axles, including how to replace just the boots, if you're interested: Left side: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Right side: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you for that! I'm actually going to take your advice and try to keep my OEM axles and repack so definitely was in need of these. Although I have a 2nd generation 03 Rav4 and was wondering if there are several types of transaxles for this generation as well?
Thank GOD I found this video. Fairly new DIY car repair, was stressing super hard about doing this on my Rav4 and you answered every single question I have. Even specific ones like “is it ok to install this ABS axle in my non-ABS vehicle”
@@jamesgaudreau8315 No, if the seal is not leaking, you can leave it in place. But definitely change it if it is leaking, though, because you don't want to have a transmission fluid leak. Most shops won't even replace non-leaking seals during an axle swap unless you specifically ask. Good luck!
@@jamesgaudreau8315 Uh oh, that's no fun! But don't despair -- stripped hex's are a common issue on sway bar links and tie rod ends, and there are plenty of work-arounds. Here's what I would try: 1.) Do you have access to any impact wrenches (family, neighbor, friend, a little extra money to buy one)? If so, then soak that nut with PB Blaster and let it set for a while, then try again with the impact wrench. That might be enough for this particular application; a good impact can often spin that nut right off so quickly that the bolt doesn't spin. Also, if you happen to have a torch, you can heat the nut up, then hit it with an impact and that usually works very well. 2.) If you don't have any impact access, then I would try cutting off the nut, or using a nut-splitter. There's enough room in there to get an angle grinder or Dremel, and notch out the nut on opposite sides, then it will come off. Or even cleaner and faster is a nut splitter -- nut splitters are easy to use and you can often rent them for free from Autozone, or buy them for under $15. Here is a video of a nut breaker in action on an Audi tie rod end: ua-cam.com/video/nVXHT6H_WrY/v-deo.html 3.) If that's not an option either, then I'd cut the boot and clamp down on the bolt itself, and try breaking the nut free that way. Here is an example of what I mean on a Honda Civic: ua-cam.com/video/SewZ6703llc/v-deo.html 4.) Last option would be to cut the boot out and try cutting that bolt with a hacksaw. Obviously, option #2 requires at least buying new nuts, and options #3 and #4 require new links, because I'd either destroy the boots or destroy the boots and nut. The advantage with option #1 is that it might be possible to re-use the links: the hexes would still be stripped, but with an impact, in a pinch, I could try to get that nut back on there without using the hex. I'd clean up the threads on the bolt very well and the nut, then see if I couldn't spin that nut back on there using the impact without needing the hex (using an impact to install fasteners is a last resort for me because I like to always use a torque wrench for installs). It is not ideal because I wouldn't be using a torque wrench so I wouldn't know that final applied torque, but to mitigate for that uncertainty, I would make some marks to be sure I got the nut back the same number of turns and mark the bolt end to make sure it wasn't spinning with the nut. Again, its not ideal, but there is a way to make it work in a pinch. Otherwise, just buy new links and then you know you'll be able to use a torque wrench, and be good for the next removal. So there are work arounds! Maybe one of them will work for you. Good luck!
Excellent video you have been thought very well kudos to you and your mentor your parents must be very proud of you. Thank you for everything you do, please keep the great work.
Wow, I am really impressed. You totally rock girl. I must say you are an expert at what you do and you know cars like no man or woman Ive met yet. I cant wait to watch what else you have put out there. Very pleased to have bumped into this video. Im not much of a social bug, but if you’re anywhere near Stockton, Ca, I would love to meet you in person. Great job! New Fan, Alma Alvarez🎉
Thank you : ) I'm no expert - the more I learn, the more I know I'm not an expert and will always be learning more! But I do like to give lots of detail so that we can all have as much info as possible for our repairs, so we can DIY and know the job was done well. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
@@L35inColorado Well hello there Miss mechanic. I just wanted to thank you for responding to my comment. You are definitely a lot more expert with mechanics than a lot of the mechanics that are posting videos. I’m not trying to say anything negative about anyone else but you by far are the best I’ve seen out there. I am also an advocate about learning as much as you can on a daily basis. Your awesome and have a great evening. Keep up the good work and keep on learning!i
Oh my gosh!!!!!! I just realized that i used a bad word in my post. I did not mean to say that at all! I did not proofread my comment before posting. Everyone my apologies please accept them oh my God I’m so sorry.
Not only are you a dam good mechanic, but this is hands down the most technically complete repair video I've ever seen ! I will be installing one of these in 4 days, on a 96' 2WD automatic / with no ABS. The one on our car had the threaded end snap OFF, and the nut was rattling around in the hub !
Thanks, I hope the video helps! Holy smokes, I'm glad you caught that issue with your axle, and I'm glad no one was hurt...that's pretty wild! Please post back with any tips you learn & would like to share regarding the 2WD axles. Good luck!
I completed the axle install, as well as replacing the wheel bearings (which fell apart when the axle was removed). The toothed ABS ring on the new shaft did NOT cause any problems when installed on a RAV4 with no ABS. Perfectly smooth driving now.......
I will be doing a change out of these parts in the next few days.. I'm a bit nervous but I dont have the money to hire a mechanic. THANK YOU for this video. You are a life saver. So much attention to detail.
Your welcome, I hope it helps! If you can, rent the slide hammer tool kit (Advance Auto, rental Powerbilt Kit #41) and the tie rod end separator (Autozone, rental #27276), because they will save you some time and trouble (especially the slide hammer). Good luck and please post back with any comments, questions or tips!
@@L35inColorado my question right now would be... When you did the passenger side... Did you have to take off the support that the axle is going through? Or did you leave it along and just used the slide hammer to get it off? Please help 😅 currently doing this at the moment
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I have a couple other CV axle videos for the Rav4, which show the boot replacement, if you're doing that job: Left front, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Right front, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html Thanks again for watching : )
The manual shown is the Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM), Volume 2. Here is an example, for the '00 Rav4: www.ebay.com/itm/380880991501 Here's one for the '96 (these first-generation Rav4's had a distributor ignition system til '98, so if you have a '98 - '00, then the don't buy the '96 FSM because it the ignition section is different): www.ebay.com/itm/144471547819 The hard copies are expensive; sometimes there are electronic versions for sale. You can also go to the Toyota TIS website and pay $20, which will grant acess to all Toyota manuals, unlimited, for two days: techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx I hope that helps! I recently posted a video of another Rav4 CV axle job, where I show how to replace the boots using the Toyota kit. Here's that video: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Thanks for watching : )
Great video, great explanation of the entire process! Why did you replace only the outer seal? About to replace left front on my 2005 RAV4, dealership told me both seals are required? First time doing this on Toyota; my Hondas only have one seal on transmission opening.
There might be different designs on different transaxles, but on this '00 Rav4 4WD Automatic, there is only one drive shaft seal ("output seal") per side. That is usually what you see on Toyotas -- I'm not familiar with any setups that have two axles seals on one side, but I'm not familiar with all setups, either. If the dealer meant the baffle as a sort of "seal", then perhaps that's why they were thinking "two seals" (??), but the baffle is not a seal and there's no need to replace it because the leak is caused by axle seal, not the baffle. I hope that helps -- thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado IDK, your driveshaft looks like my new 2005, with a "step" on the part between the splines and the inner CV joint. Waiting for the seals to arrive; guess I'll find out soon. Thanks!
Awesome video. I just had this done by our mechanic for the passenger side. But I hear an odd noise when I'm coming to a stop that sounds like it's rotating from the side thar was replaced. Do you have any idea what that could be?
I'm sorry that happening -- take it back to the mechanic, and have him take a look. There shouldn't be any noises like that after the repair. Good luck!
I was recently replacing the left front cv axle and chose to purchase a new axle. I had a lot of trouble getting it in. So, out of curiosity, I removed the snap ring and attempted installation. STILL I had trouble. I inspected the channel for the c clip/retainer. There were many burrs left from machining. I deburred it attempted the installation (again without the retaining ring) and had no problem. So, I installed the c clip and then installed the axle which was much, much easier. So, lesson learned? If you buy a new axle, inspect and deburr the axle before attempting installation.
That is an excellent tip - thanks for sharing! I've seen pictures in forums of totally misaligned splines on re-man'd shafts, for example this: www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/7onanc/after_an_hour_or_so_trying_to_get_a_stubborn_cv/ I've never seen something that bad in person, but I can imagine how it would happen (mis-install, then returned to the store, then re-sold or re-man'd without anyone noticing the defect). Thanks for sharing your tip, and thanks for watching! : )
We used our dog's choke chain to remove the axle. A pry bar screwdriver will fit in the loop at the end of the choke chain then you use both hands grab hold of the bar and give it a couple tugs and the axle pops out easily.
I don't know that value -- you can try asking the Rav4 forums (rav4world.com or toyotanation.com) and someone will likely reply with a value (they are a lot of techs on the site with access to Toyota TIS). If that doesn't work, then you can buy a two-day TIS (Toyota Info Service) pass from Toyota for $20 at this site: techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx Through TIS, you'll have access to the entire Factory Service Manual for two days, and that will provide all the steps with some drawings and also all the torque specs. You can also buy a Haynes Manual, or get the online version for $27 which also includes some videos, including of the axle removal (check their video list): haynes.com/en-us/toyota/rav4/2013-2018#aplink You could also try to find a printed or digital copy of the Toyota FSM (factory service manual) on ebay or elsewhere. I hope that helps -- good luck!
Couple things I have questions on... 1- does it need to be in park or .....? 2- does the right side need to be out first? 3- how do you tell if clip is right side up or not? 4- if it wont come out can you take off the surround plate to make it easier?
Good questions: 1 - Yes, you keep it in Park: both front wheels must be off the ground, so even in Park you will be able to rotate either wheel, due to the open differential. When you rotate one wheel, the other wheel will rotate in the opposite direction (this is normal). 2 - You can do either side first (or only side at all), but only remove one axle at a time. That is, do one side completely, then do the other side. Don't remove both axles at once. Myself, I also do a test drive after completing one side and before starting the other. 3 - You cannot tell the position of the circ-clip while removing the axle: you might get lucky and the axle pops out on the very first try, or you might have to partially rotate the axle several times until you hit the "sweet spot" where the clip isn't opposing as much. During re-install, you can position the clip with the opening downward to make it easier to pop back in place. 4 - NO - do not remove that plate into which the axle fits; those plates on either side are part of the transaxle itself (or transfer case, for the right side), not part of the axle. Do NOT remove them. Remove only the parts shown in the video. If the axle is giving you trouble, just keep rotating it and trying again. Sometimes it takes several tries: in my opinion, the slide hammer is the easier, most reliable method for removing these axles (especially given the limited space), so if you can get that slide hammer, you will be in the good shape. Here are two other videos I've done on other Rav4 front axles, including the passenger side AWD: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html I hope that helps - good luck : )
@@L35inColorado I have a leaking problem with my Toyota RAV4. Still leaking from the power steering. I am so disappointed and depressed from all the mechanics. No one can't fix it yet. I already spend so much for this problem and still not fixed. I can cry about it.
@@annmarto8169 Oh man, I'm so sorry that is happening to you! If it's any help, one of the common power steering leaks on the Rav4 is the pinion seal -- it is where the intermediate shaft from the steering wheel meets the steering rack. There is a seal there that gets old over time and leaks, and it can cause a big mess and cause power steering fluid to leak everywhere. Sometimes mechanic's don't catch it because there is a cover over the seal. Here is a description of it with pictures -- it might be something to share with your mechanic if they haven't already checked this spot (it's easy to inspect once you know where it is): www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-power-steering-rack-seal-pinion-valve-seal-stop-a-common-4-1-ps-leak.264929/ Again, I'm very sorry this is happening to you -- I hope they can fix your power steering soon! : )
Very detailed and camera work. Do you have any other video for replacing the clutch , Toyota Rav4 2001 . AWD. Manual. please let me know. Thank you so much.
LPT: To hold the axle still while removing the nut, I was able to just wedge a stick between the driver seat and brake pedal. Just move the seat forward to hold the pedal down.
Thanks -- if you're looking for a hard copy, then try eBay. If you're looking for a digital copy, then you can buy a two-pass to Toyota's TIS website and download what you need. Here's the TIS link: techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=-6736666744967300098&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F
Great video! Very well put together! Usually don't find such good tutorials from smaller channels like this. Keep it up! Only suggestion would be to perhaps get a slightly better microphone. Was just a little hard to hear you during some parts. Thanks for making this!
Thanks! I use an old iPhone for all the recording, so I'm pretty low tech and don't have a microphone. Maybe in the future I can upgrade to something like that. Thanks and good luck with your repair!
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I do all the recording myself, but I use a selfie-stick and clamps to hold the iphone in place when I need both hands. I just got a new camera as a gift, so the video quality will be better for my newer videos. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Very detailed. Would like to attempt this in the coming days . Do you think it would be a good idea to also replace the suspension while at it?
Thanks! Personally, I don't replace the Rav4 suspension parts preventatively. I only replace those parts if there is obvious wear (torn boots, leaks, etc) or a problem (noise, rough ride, etc). In my experience, the Rav4 suspension parts tend to last a long, long time. That said, I have replaced the original sway bar links (12:28) on several Rav4's because of broken boots, so that is a part you might want to have on hand to replace while you're in there, if you old ones have broken boots. I hope that helps, and good luck! : )
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the book is the Toyota FSM (Factory Service Manual), Volume 2. They are still available on ebay, such as this set: www.ebay.com/itm/381506513057 As you can see, they can be a bit expensive, but if you can only get one, get "Volume 2 Engine Mechanical" because that is the most useful book (and that's what's shown in the video). An alternative is to use Toyota's TIS online service, which is $20 for two-day access: techinfo.toyota.com I didn't change the passenger side CV axle on this Rav4, but have one another AWD, and it is quite similar. However, the 2WD passenger side CV axle is quite different because there is a pressed carrier bearing that makes the job more complicated. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
What is that blue thing behind the seal. Do all toyotas have it. I have seen people using seal removal tool to get it out without seeing the blue thing. Thanks
Timestamps, Part numbers, and Links are below after these notes: If you're doing this job and also want to replace the CV boots, check out this video too: Full DIY on replacing the old CV boots with new boots from they Toyota boot kit: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Here is a video for the passenger/right side AWD axle job (and CV boot replacement): ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html Note: @Humboldt Aloha commented that they had to pop off the ABS ring on their new axles which they were installing on a non-ABS 2WD automatic in order for the axles to fit the hubs. So, this is different than the 4WD auto's, which don't require this step. Thanks to @Humboldt Aloha for reporting this. Timestamps and Info: 00:16 Rundown of the steps 01:39 Selecting the correct replacement axle and seal 03:58 Repair starts 04:10 Lift the whole front end 06:33 Remove wheel 06:44 Location of parts to remove 07:50 Disconnect ABS speed sensor and bracket 09:20 Remove Axle Nut 12:27 Remove Sway Bar Link 15:00 Disconnect Outer Tie Rod End 15:39 Tie Rod Remover Tool, Autozone Rental #27276 16:48 Disconnect Ball Joint from Control Arm 18:03 Remove CV axle from wheel hub 19:56 Remove Axle Shield 21:11 Preparing to remove CV axle from transaxle 22:02 Pry/hammer point on CV axle 22:27 Technique for using Pry Bar to remove axle 23:08 Technique for using Slide Hammer to remove axle 25:18 CV Axle removed 25:36 Important notes on Spline Count of different axles 26:15 Detail of C-Clip on axle 27:10 Detail of pry/hammer location on CV axle cup 27:55 How to use a Slide Hammer 28:51 My exact set-up for removing the CV axle (clearance) 29:12 Notes for removing the Transmission Seal (Axle Seal, Shaft Seal) 30:15 Remove Transmission Seal shaft spring 30:56 Remove Transmission Seal with pry bar 32:02 Part number for Transmission Seal (for 4WD Auto: NOK BH3680E) 32:53 Install new Transmission Seal 36:13 Re-greasing wheel bearing (not necessary, just something to do while you're in there) 37:18 Inspecting CV Axle 38:22 Installing new C-Clip (if replacing C-clip) 39:57 Notes about Passenger Side (Right) CV Axle and part #'s 40:52 Reinstall CV Axle 43:50 Reinstall shaft shield 44:06 Insert CV axle into wheel hub 45:21 Reinstall fasteners for Ball Joint to Control Arm (94 ft-lbs) 46:36 Reinstall Sway Bar Link (54 ft-lbs for 4-doors, 36 ft-lbs for 2-doors) 47:17 Reconnect Outer Tie Rod End (36 ft-lbs) 47:56 Reinstall Axle Nut (159 ft-lbs) 48:58 Install Axle Nut Cover and New Cotter Key 49:26 Reinstall ABS sensor and Bracket 49:47 Last check on fasteners 50:30 Replace wheel and drop vehicle (Lugnuts 76 ft-lbs) 50:35 Top-off Transmission Fluid 52:10 How to check ATF level (procedure for Automatics only) 53:38 Good level on ATF dipstick when engine running and warm 54:50 Recheck for leaks Full DIY on replacing the old CV boots with new boots from they Toyota boot kit: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html Short wheels-on inspection of Transmission/Shaft Seal: ua-cam.com/video/FzBbz-O7ePI/v-deo.html Video on using an extension bar to increase the range of your torque wrench: ua-cam.com/video/hqiISStnb9k/v-deo.html Thanks for watching! I hope this was helpful for you, and good luck with your repair!
Thanks for your video!! I re used the snapring as I live on an island. Was able to get the shaft back in, everything ok but when I drive a little while the shaft comes back out...Any suggestions?
@@jeanke9230 I'm glad the video helped! Regarding the snap ring: did you re-install the same axle, or use the old snap ring on a new axle? If you reinstalled the same axle, then perhaps you haven't got it seated fully. As you know, you shouldn't be able to pull it out after you have it seated, and you'll want to turn the axle and check at several places that you cannot pull it out. Also, if you reinstalled the same axle, but you did some work on it (ie, re-packed the boots, etc), then you might have introduced some air into the boots and didn't properly "burp" the boot, which can cause the suction to effectively shorten the axle (there is a lot of play in the axle length because of the two joints, especially the tripod joint). The "shortened" axle can cause some strange effects, including that it can pop out. Here is an example of what I mean: www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/burping-cv-boot-simple-fix-inside.156364/ Alternatively, If you re-used the old clip on a NEW axle, then double-check that the new axle's shaft is identical to the old axle: I have seen a couple aftermarket axles that were slightly longer between the c-clip groove and the shaft end than the OEM axle, which might cause the new axle to pop out (because its not fully seated). Also, I have seen aftermarket axles that were a little shorter than the OEM, which would cause the axle to possibly pop out when turning. Matching the length is very important. Lastly, if you installed a new axle, check that the splines above and below the c-clip actually align with each other: I once saw pictures on a Toyota forum of an aftermarket axle with very poorly machined splines that did not align properly with the transaxle. Good luck!
Great video, I have a 2001 corolla automatic for which I will use this video as a reference. I have two questions. I wanted to make sure, you coated the edge of the new seal that mates to the tranny with ATF? also which MP grease do you recommend?
Yes, I put a light (light) oil of ATF on the outside edge of the seal (the edge that mates to the trans case) to reduce friction during installation. I also put a little MP grease on the backside to keep the spring in place. Then for the inside of the seal (inside lip where the axle shaft rides), I put a light coat of MP grease. Any good quality MP grease is fine for this application -- I use Mobilgrease XHP 222 just because I happen to have a lot of it for my greasing an old L35 skidsteer. Valvoline, Mobil, Lucas -- they all make good grease. Thanks for your comment, and good luck with your Corolla!
Hi, I watched this video a while back and just recently had the drivers side CV axle replaced on my 99 Rav4. I have a question, my Rav doesn't have ABS brakes, and when I got it back from the axle replacement I noticed that they did not remove the ABS ring from the new axle, is that going to cause me to have a problem? I didn't notice any noises when I drove it home. Thanks for your reply.
Good question -- in general, if the ABS ring does not interfere with installation, then it will not interfere during operation. I know that for the 4WD Rav4's, you don't have to remove the ABS ring, because I have installed ABS-ringed axles on non-ABS 4WD Rav4's. They have the same steering knuckle, so there is clearance on both for the ABS ring, whether it is there or not. Judging by part numbers, Toyota sells the axles equipped with the ABS ring, even for non-ABS applications (more on this below). And that same steering knuckle is used on 2WD Rav4's. That said, though, a commentor to this video (@Humbolt Aloha) said that they had to remove the ABS ring to seat the shaft on their 2WD. It is possible that there might be a difference based on the axle, if it is an aftermarket axle. Even that, though, seems a little strange to me because the steering knuckles for the Rav4's are the same (steering knuckle #43212-42010) -- but again, aftermarket makers might have strange specs. The wheel hubs are different for different models, hence the different outboard spline counts for the axles (to match the different wheel hub spline counts). But the part where the ABS ring spins is in the steering knuckle. So it *seems* that ABS ringed axles should fit in any Rav4 (since they have the same knuckle) -- but since I haven't done a 2WD, I don't know that for a fact, and again Humbolt Ahola said they had to remove the ring for their 2WD. These are sample VIN's ABS-equipped and non-ABS '99 4WD automatics: 4WD auto, non-ABS: JT3HP10V4X7131602. 4WD auto, with ABS: JT3HP10V5X7138896. For those 4WD models, with and without ABS, running the VIN through the parts.toyota.com site shows that they both take the same axle (#43420-42013, for front left), which has an ABS ring on it. I can't find a sample VIN for 2WD auto with ABS, so I can't replicate that search method for the 2WD models, unfortunately. Lastly, there are no notes in the FSM about removing the ring for non-ABS units; in general, aftermarket axle makers simply state to remove the ABS ring if it is interfering with installation. So, if you aren't getting any noises, then you're probably fine! Give the installer a call and ask: tell them you noticed the ABS ring and want to verify the fitment. Worse case scenario is that they'd just have to tap the ring off, which they can do without removing the axle. You can also have a look yourself in there, if you'd like: lift the front end (both wheels off the ground), remove the wheel and turn the shaft. If there is no interference, then you are good!
@@L35inColorado Mine is AWD, forgot to mention that in my question. Sorry, I will have to drive it a ways on Monday, I will listen for any noises. And you probably won't remember but I asked you about a noise coming from my automatic trans a few moths ago, I checked everything you mentioned and I ended up having to put in a used trans, it was still expensive but the car is in such great shape otherwise and I didn't want to scrap it. My CV boot just started leaking recently and I think it was partly caused by it being old and also because the guys at the trans shop probably let it hang while working on removing the trans. I will be watching for the pass. side to start leaking next. Otherwise it has been running great. Thanks so much for your detailed reply and I still don't believe that you are just a "backyard mechanic," you are way too knowledgeable for that! Take care.
YA LO INTENTE PERO NO SE ACTIVAN,Y SON EXELENTES TUS VIDEOS,PERO MI INGLES NO ES MU BUENO,ESPERO SE PUEDAN ACTIVAR,ESTOY SUSCRITO A TU CANAL,GRACIAS Y BENDICIONES!!!👍👍👍
Great video. What book did you use to show the exploded view of the cv axle in the beginning of your video? Did you change the passenger side cv axle as well?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the book is the Toyota FSM (Factory Service Manual), Volume 2. They are still available on ebay, such as this set: www.ebay.com/itm/381506513057?fits=Year%3A1999%7CModel%3ARAV4&hash=item58d38f68a1:g:ZcIAAOSwDJFdFRV~ As you can see, they can be a bit expensive, but if you can only get one, get "Volume 2 Engine Mechanical" because that is the most useful book (and that's what's shown in the video). An alternative is to use Toyota's TIS online service, which is $20 for two-day access: techinfo.toyota.com I didn't change the passenger side CV axle on this Rav4, but have one another AWD, and it is quite similar. However, the 2WD passenger side CV axle is quite different because there is a pressed carrier bearing that makes the job more complicated. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
Hi, I LOVE your videos! so detailed, I wish you were located near me, I'm in PA. Question, I am having a problem with the front diff on my 99 Rav4, (4WD, automatic, ), it makes a noise when driving and is very easy to hear from start off until 30mph, (rotating noise, ) I have narrowed down the noise to definitely coming from the front diff. not the hub bearing, my car runs fine otherwise, shifts fine, only 145k, good condition, I've spent money to fix some other things on it and don't want to get rid of it. It is a one owner and I have only had it a year. I keep hearing horror stories (from friends) that this is going to be an expensive job to remove the front diff to see what is wrong and repair it. I was going to start off by changing the gear oil in both the front and rear diff. (not sure when it was ever done before) but I have a feeling that this is not going to stop my noise, something is probably worn, my question is how long, how much labor hours is it to remove the front diff and would I be better off taking it to a Toyota dealership verses a transmission shop to have it done? I'm definitely not going to try and do it myself. I hope you can see this post and thank you so much in advance for your reply.
I'm sorry that's happening to you! The Rav4 has a transaxle, which means that the front diff is integrated into the transmission, so it doesn't have a "front diff" per se, but rather it's a transaxle setup. Transaxles don't have differentials that are isolated from the "rest" of the transmission, like you see for example in a vehicle that would have a "regular" transmission bolted to the engine, then a front diff bolted to the transmission, and drive shafts connected to the differential. The Rav4 has a transaxle bolted to the engine, and the drive shafts enter the transaxle (not a front diff). So the Rav4 doesn't have a "front diff" or "front diff oil" per se because the diff and lubricant is not separate from the transmission or the transmission lubricant, which for your automatic means Toyota T-IV ATF. All this is to say that when you change the transmission fluid on your Rav4, you are also changing the oil that lubricates the "front diff" since the front diff is integrated into the trans and there is no "front diff oil" per se to change. The 4WD on the Rav4 is AWD and works through a transfer case, which is a chain-driven device that transfers rotation from the transaxle to the propeller shaft, and then the prop shaft connects to the rear diff. The transfer case DOES have its own oil -- you can check the transfer case oil with a rather hard-to-reach dipstick located behind the right front tire. You have to turn the steering wheel all the way left to reach it. Then you can reach your left hand in, and its an orange plastic handle. It is a very short dipstick. The transfer case takes gear oil and it is fairly common that people forget to change it, but it should be changed every 30K miles (I use Mobil-1 75W-90). It is easy to change -- just open the drain plug, drain the oil, slip on a new drain plug gasket, tighten the drain plug (29 ft-lbs), and refill through the dipstick tube: www.rav4world.com/threads/first-diy-transfer-case-fluid-change-w-pics.71976/ As for the rear diff, there are two types on the '99 AWD's: a standard rear diff and a Torsen Limited Slip (LSD) rear diff. The easiest way to find out which yours has is to just run your VIN at the Toyota VIN lookup website, and it will indicate if you have a "Limited Slip Differential" (the Torsens were an upgrade feature and are not as common as the standard, non-Torsen rear diff's). If you have a Torsen rear diff, you need to use a special friction modifier when you change the rear diff oil, which you read about here in post #7: www.rav4world.com/threads/limited-slip-rav4.181330/ As for your noise: there are quite a few possibilities. I would be looking at the wheel bearings first, especially in PA where there might be water intrusion/rust. If that checked out, then I would check the CV joints (especially if they had been replaced with aftermarket axles). If that checked out, then perhaps it could be a carrier bearing on the prop shaft or transfer case or transaxle (like a shaft bearing in the trans, since you said it shifts fine and otherwise runs well), but those issues are rather rare on Rav4's. You might want to make a post on the rav4world.com forum and see if others there can help you. There are some great minds there - be sure to post only in the "4.1" forum under the "Faults and Fixes." Lastly, personally, I wouldn't take it to a Toyota dealer: a reputable independent Toyota shop (or a shop that focuses on Asian vehicles) will do better work, have more pride, and give a better price than your average Toyota dealership. But hopefully it will be something that you can do yourself and not a major deal! Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Hi, I read your reply in detail and did most of the things you suggested after work today. I checked my vin and I don't have the special rear axle. I jacked up all 4 wheels today and had a friend start up the car and put it in drive while I layed slightly under the front end to see exactly where the noise was coming from, to my horror it was coming from the transmission/transaxle pan area. I could put my hand on the pan and tell. I am going to start off by having the fluid and filter changed tomorrow as I recall that when I bought the car 10 months ago with 140k on it I only drained the fluid and didn't drop the pan to change the filter. I am hoping that this makes a difference as it has only been making this noise a short time. it's more like a dry friction/rubbing type noise not a clunking or knocking. Part of my horror is that I am told by others that on this type of vehicle if the problem can't be fixed by taking the pan off and working from there then the only way to take the trans out is by taking the whole engine/trans assembly out, do you know if this is true? if this is the case then I will have to probably get rid of my Rav as I know I won't have the funds to pay for all the labor that will probably be involved to remove the engine and then for them to take the trans to a shop to have it fixed and pay their labor bill and then put everything back together. I did make a post like this on the Rav site and will look for any replies there as well as looking for your reply on what else I can do to fix this problem. I'm going to lose sleep over this now until I find out the outcome. I really liked my Rav and it runs fine other wise and was hoping to keep it for several years but if I have to go thru all this labor to fix it then that's the end of it for me. Thank you so much! I appreciate anything that you can suggest.
Hi Lisa, can you please tell me what the part number for the passenger side drive shaft seal is you used at 41:36 ? Is it the National oil seal 710115 or was that for the drivers side? Thanks - Dan
Yes, exactly -- that's why it so difficult sometimes to pin down an ATF leak on an automatic. Also, the original factory-fill ATF that Toyota used in the Rav4 power steering system is undyed (brown) so it looks like very dirty regular (red) ATF and even like engine oil, if its dirty enough. ATF has that distinct smell though, so that's a good way to distinguish it from engine oil even if its very dirty and looks like engine oil. The transfer case on 4WD Rav4's uses a heavy (and very smelly) gear oil, so its not usually mistaken for anything other than gear oil, but this ATF leak and also the PS leak can end up all over the transfer case and make people think the transfer case is leaking. Thanks for your comment!
I love watching your videos. I happen to have a 2000 AWD with the same transmission (A540H) and model code (SXA11L-AWPGKA) as your RAV in this video except mine does not have ABS and my transaxle code is NO 815. I am working on the passenger side. You show a short segment with that CV axle. Would you happen to know the model number of that axle?
great video. if you can put some links for the parts used in this video would be awesome.... (the toyota part # for the drive shaft is for a manual transmission not an automatic).... it will fit whatsoever...
Thanks -- The part number shown at 25:57 (Toyota #43420-42013) is for either the automatic or manual AWD Rav4's for the following years, according to the Toyota site (the info below is pasted from the Toyota site -- click the link, then click on "What this Fits" to see this same list there): Toyota RAV4 2.0L A/T Coupe SOFTTOP: 1998, 1999, 2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0L A/T HARDTOP: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0L M/T Coupe HARDTOP: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0L M/T Coupe SOFTTOP: 1998, 1999, 2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0L M/T HARDTOP: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 Toyota RAV4 A/T HARDTOP: 1996 Toyota RAV4 M/T Coupe HARDTOP: 1996 Toyota RAV4 M/T HARDTOP: 1996 Link: parts.toyota.com/p/69301993/4342042013.html I'm reluctant to put up links because links can change and I might be linking bad information and not even know it. The Toyota Parts site is consistent and is managed by Toyota, so I'm okay with linking them. An efficient way to research parts is to use RockAuto.com (and NapaOnline, but RockAuto is usually more effective in finding part numbers). RockAuto has a very strong search engines which will cross-references parts numbers. With axles, though, because there are so many transmission combinations on the gen-1 Ra4's, just be sure to double/triple/quadruple-check the compatibility before ordering (that's why I mentioned the spline counts), because it is easy to order the wrong one! Or sometimes you order the right one but they send the wrong one, so be sure to check the replacement axle out before starting the install. Here is an example of what you get when you put that Toyota part number (43420-42013) into the Rock Auto search engine: www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=4342042013 As for the seal: just google the part number (either as NOK or National), and there are a number of places you can buy that. I hope that helps -- Good luck!
Hey, sorry for the off topic post, but do you happen to know the best way to get the driver's side motor/trans mount off (the one under the airbox)? The top two bolts, as well as the through bolt/nut are easy to get out, but the bottom two are difficult to get access to. It seems like removing the trans bracket would give me better access, but those bolts dont have a ton of clearance either. I know this has nothing to do with your video, but you are very thorough and RAV4world/service manuals don't give me much info. I love my gen1 Rav4, but documentation for servicing them is... scarce, in my experience.
Do you mean those two bolts that go horizontally through the mount into the body? I'm in the bay right now for a charcoal canister and can see if I have a tool combination that might work. (I agree that those bolts for the transmission bracket are probably even harder to reach.) Let me see what I can get on those horizontal bolts...
@@L35inColorado I was talking about the two bolts that go horizontally into the body, yeah. Not sure why I didn't think of it sooner, went at them from the bottom through the wheel well with a big adjustable crescent wrench. Now I just have to figure out how to get the holes to line back up for the new mount, then drop the subframe for the last mount in the back. Thank you for your time though. Please, keep making great content for this car. I really appreciate it.
@@jacksonbrusseaux4754 Yes, for those I use a combination wrench for the front one (remove the air duct for more clearance), and for the back one, a combination wrench but reaching through the wheel well with the wheel removed. To align the holes, you can use an allen wrench or a rod that's a smaller diameter than the bolts -- put the rod through the hole on the mount and into the threaded hole, then use the rod to move the mount into alignment. An "L" shaped Allen wrench ought to fit in that tight space. There's no way to get a torque wrench on those horizontal bolts (at least not that I know!), but the FSM says that the torque is 38 ft-lbs if you'd like to torque down the vertical bolts. I don't have a value for the thru bolt & nut. I haven't done that rear mount, which I've heard is tricky. Good luck and thanks for updating!
I'm sorry that's happening to you -- No, I'm not familiar with that, and personally I would not plug any transfer case weep holes (also called vents) -- I'm not familiar with that issue occurring on the gen-1 Rav4, but on the newer AWD Rav4s (and Highlanders), a leak like that was typically caused by defective o-ring/seal which allowed transmission fluid/oil to enter into the transfer case, which caused the transfer case to overfill and leak. Obviously, if transmission fluid is leaking into the transfer case, there is a big problem. I would try to determine the cause of the leak. I would check your transmission fluid level to eliminate such a leak as a cause of overfilling.
@@L35inColorado Thank you. Hope you'll have a detailed tutorial just like the rest of your videos soon for I can't find one in UA-cam specific with the transfer case of Rav4 99.
Yes, the suspension components and torque values are all the same, but the axle itself is a different part number for the MT (manual trans) than the AT (auto trans) shown in the video, so be sure to order an MT axle and compare it to the axle you remove -- ie, length, spline count on each end, etc. Overall, the MT and AT axles look similar but they are different parts. But otherwise, yes, the MT axle comes out just the same way and is installed in just the same way as the left side AT axle shown in the video. If you're also replacing the output seal (transmission seal, as shown in the video), be sure to double-check that part number with your parts dealer because I don't know if that seal is the same for the MT and AT (I *think* it is, but I'm not sure, and they will be able to tell you). Lastly, if you lose enough fluid that you have to re-fill any, since you have a manual transmission, you will refill with whatever gear oil you use. If you're not sure which one, the specs from Toyota are shown in the later part of the video when I'm re-filling. The video shows an AT, so I'm re-filling with ATF through the dipstick, but on your MT, there is no dipstick and you will use gear oil instead. So you'll just refill through the 24mm refill plug on the side of the transmission. If you're just swapping in a new axle and not replacing the seal, you might not even lose enough gear oil that you'd even need to refill any. I hope this helps : ) Good luck!
I really like the Geolanders! They are the Geolandar A/T GO15 in size 225/70R16. And no, I don't have a lift -- the 225/70/16 tires fit the factory wheels (as you can see), and add just a little height; mostly, they just give it a better look. There is no rubbing with that size, either. I highly recommend the Geolandars, and this is my second set. I was just out in the snow today with them and they did great!
Thank you -- no, I don't have a video on the right side drive shaft, but on the AWD the repair is very similar (the RHS AWD shaft is shown in the video at about 35:57). But the right side on the 2WD is quite different, though, because there is a carrier bearing and large snap ring -- if you're doing the right side on a 2WD Rav4, you can get some idea of the work by watching videos for the right side shaft on the Camry or Corolla from similar late-90's years (the parts are different, but the set-up is similar with the carrier bearing and large snap ring). There is also a difference on the right side between the 2WD automatics (AT) and 2WD manuals (MT). You typically need a press to remove the bearing from the bearing case/bracket. I hope that helps! Here's a link to a pdf for that section of the FSM -- skip to about page 21, then read carefully because there's different info for the 2WD and AWD and MT and AT transmission: www.rav4world.com/attachments/sa-pdf.84329/ Good luck! Thanks for watching : )
Gracias -- pero no hablo espanol! Quiero entenderlo, pero todavía no lo he logrado : ) Esta en mi lista de cosas para aprender, haha. Buena suerte con tus reparaciones!
Hey I replaced RH axle seal on automatic 2011 four cylinder rav4 New seal we put in seemed to have a small gap between the shaft and inner seal diameter. Is that normal? I thought it would be tight on the shaft with inner diameter of seal. No obvious leaks after quick test drive. But I don’t see how it won’t start to leak without the seal hugging the shaft ? Is this some sort of crazy magic design that just works?
To follow up it’s not a seal from the dealership. I Ordered through a local parts shop and they found a acceptable alternate part number. The outer diameters are bang on perfect but the old one had a slightly smaller inner diameter then the new one. Leaving a gap between the seal and axle shaft. the dust cover makes it hard to see what’s really going on when it’s fully installed
I do not know -- if it is not similar to what you saw when you removed the old seal, then yes, that would be strange. Perhaps give your local Toyota shop a call, and describe the situation and they might be able to tell you. Good luck!
Great video! Did you use the same seal 710115 for both driver and front passenger? About to order mine and just want to be sure, 1997 rav4 auto awd non abs
Thanks, I hope the videos helps your job! The part number for the seal shown (the driver's/left side) only comes back as a fit for the left side. I'm not sure about the right side seal. The setup on the right is a bit different, too, as the seal is behind a dust cover so it's harder to see. Give your local Toyota dealer a call and ask if they can help you out with a part number. Also, I use the Toyota parts database, which you can check out here: be sure to take note of the different transmissions because there are several available, as mentioned in the video. This is an example link for the left side output seal search results (multiple transmissions shown): parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_1997_RAV4/63189563__6721609/FRONT-DRIVE-SHAFT/662410-4302.html Good luck!
The Lady Mechanic is a superb teacher/instructor----absolutely top notch, step by step layout!
Thanks, and thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado You really take the prize when it comes to clarity and your tone could not be better! You really do have a gift---regards--Jackson
@@jackinthegreen5178 Here here :)
Ok - Hear hear - but I do wish we had tradies as wonderful as L35 in Colorado :)
Amen @@jackinthegreen5178
Thank you so much thanks to your video my son and I were able to change our own axle , as a single mother every penny counts 💙
Wow, that is outstanding!! Well done on your DIY!
Thanks for watching : )
One of the finest "how-to" vids ever. I come from a family of mechanics. I've been working on my cars for nearly 50 years now. My wife recently acquired a RAV4 that needed a boot replacement - of course, I'm gonna get a heads-up first. Rarely do I find an educator who knows her stuff and can plan and explain the job along with a ton of extra info to ensure that everyone who ever watched this video gets the good-oil on how it's done. My Missus likes it when her car purrs without me getting too peeved so that's gotta be good.
Congrats "L35 in Colorado" - as we say in Oz "Top Tradie - You're a bloody legend 😀". Kudos.
Wow, thanks! I'm so glad the video helped, and thanks for watching : )
Hi, l really love your vedio,it really helps.l just replaced my rav4 left side cv joint.its still making a knocking noise every time l come across bumps and rough surfaces.the noise is just getting worse.
A Blood Legend-exactly right. I have a hard time getting through all the other automotive “bushwacking” videos now. L35 gets you into the darkest regions, gets you back with no wrong turns. Exceptional video craft, scene setup, narrative, references, priceless. Well done L35!
You have such a pleasant voice. Not like most car videos. Appreciating that and a very well done video.
Thank you - and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you, again. Why you're not in the top 10 most viewed mechanics on UA-cam baffles me. Time will tell I guess? It's simply unjust. Just so straight forward and completely helpful videos. Attention to detail is, well, attention to detail. Remarkable! Keep it up. Please, keep it up. Thumbs up!! Rav4 owner from down under says, 'thanks again'. If only you knew what almost all mechanics would charge for what you have just shown...you'd be horrified. Stay safe. And a million thanks!
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching all the way from down under! That's cool : )
Yes, I agree. It's a shame she doesn't get more views. This video alone should have been 100k. Then again, Toyota probably don't break down that often. Should have done repair video on Chrysler. That's easy 100k views. 😂
I am 33 years old and I constantly work on things and watch different videos to learn an and so new things. This video right here is the best video I have seen explaining how to accurately do something with no questions. Awesome job and I tip my hat to you
Thank you! I have a couple other videos on these axles, which show the boot replacement. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Thumbs up, You are doing a great job. Am very proud of you for being a lady as amechanic. I wish you could help me.
Thank you for clearly showing where to actually put your jack stands and jack.
Sure! I try to show the lift and jackstand points because I know it can be confusing when working on the axles. You can also put the jackstands under the pinch welds on either side, but if you do that it is best to use those specialized slotted rubber jackstand caps, if possible. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
What an amazing video. You've really got a knack for details and I appreciated every minute of the video from the verbal explanation to the on screen text. Well done and thank you so much for posting this!
Thank you, that's very kind : ) Good luck with you repair!
This is the most thorough mechanical video I have ever watched, very impressive step by step directions on how to take it apart, and put it back to, tools used and everything. Great job
Wow, thanks - and thanks for watching : )
Watched a few removals on front axels removals yours was the only one using slide hammer thanks it worked great
Wow, that's great - great job on your DIY! Yes, I really like a slide hammer for CV axle removal. Thanks for watching : )
Great video and I loved the noise it makes when it's cold. :)
Haha! Yes -- but it doesn't make that noise anymore! : ) Re-greasing the bearings did the trick. Good luck!
This is the most helpful video I've seen on getting these suckers out. Love the note snapshot pauses. Super useful!! Thanks!!
Thanks for watching -- good luck! : )
You are a real good teacher, you used very good presentation of steps. Also great filming, shares your information well.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Fantastic video! I have this job to do for a third time on a 2AR-FE Sienna (it would eat outer CV boots, now a seal leaking). It is surprising how nearly identical the Sienna and RAV 4 suspensions are. I was with you on the pry bar method, managed to make it work but all along I felt I was doing it wrong. Next time is a slip hammer with the right tool and suspending the shaft. I learn soooo much from your videos, particularly on procedures I felt I was ok with. You bring my craft up several levels. You are a real treasure!!
Wow, thanks for your comment and for sharing the similarities with your 2AR-FE job! Yes, I really like a slide hammer for removing these axles when there's limited access. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Thank you for your videos! They are possibly the best on UA-cam as far as detail, part numbers and explanations. You helped me swap my radiator already (a lot of work) and it would have been a nightmare without you! CV is next.
Wow, thanks for your comment -- that makes my day! : ) I try to make the videos helpful so that we can all work with a little more confidence and a little less uncertainty, since there's always a lot of uncertainty in repair work and it can be intimidating. That's so great that you swapped your radiator DIY -- well done! Good luck on your CV axle, too -- thanks again for your comment!
Thank you...best diy ever. I actually understand step by step in this video.
Thanks for watching! : )
Great video. Most informative,easy to follow video I have seen in long time. I am doing this job on my 99 Rav4 in the morning. Thanks for the HELP. I will use this video instead on my Haynes manual and have it on while doing the job. Thanks again!!
I'm so glad the video helped -- you can combine the info in the Haynes manual with what you see here, since the Haynes manuals sometimes give very practical tips! Good luck : )
Sorry. I watched the whole video and asked a question before I saw you also had the right side which answers my questions. Thank you for both.
I don't even need to do this, but I find your video entertaining and so informative. Your video format should be the model for all automotive repair videos. Love the first part where you go through the overview of the repair with a diagram. Auto parts companies should hire you as the multimedia expert. 👍 The gold standard!
Wow, thanks - thanks for watching! : )
Hi again L35. I am right in the middle of this job on my 1999 rav4 4WD manual with 375,000 miles and got stuck. As it was 2 years ago when i decided to change the timing belt, your video has given me the thing to try next. Thanks again.
Wow, thanks great -- thanks for watching, and good luck! You'll get it! : )
Finally finished last night, thanks to your guided videos. I went ahead and changed breakpads and rotors plus ball joints and one stabilizer bar link while I was doing the original job of replacing the CV axles. Thanks again!
You are an amazing instructor, all you need to know about the task at hand and then some. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment -- good luck! : )
Your voice was very soothing i actually forgot that I am about to do both sides on a 98 manual 4 wheel 2 door and thanks for the info concerning the different variations cause I think I bot the wrong ones
Yes, it's confusing -- there are several axles, so be sure to double-check your parts before beginning. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
I love all of your RAV4 video series. Very detailed instructions with excellent information.
Thank you! : )
What a great video. This is going to be SO helpful when I replace my CV axles this week. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Very nice video you doing. That’s how you doing a video if you want to show others how to replace parts on cars. Great job. Thumb up.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the thumbs up : )
absolutely the best how to video with pauses and additional notes so much work done to make this video so good thank you!!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
In the middle of restoring my 99 rav 4 this video is amazing the effort you put in fantastic thank you very much 👍
Wow, best luck in your restoration! I'm so glad the video is helpful : ) Thanks for your comment!
You make everything look so easy!
I try to make the jobs easier, because I know auto repair as a DIY can be rather intimidating : ) I've also done this job a few times, and have been taught some tricks to make things easier...like that slide hammer to remove the axle!
If you're doing this job, check out these other videos I recently did, especially if you're pulling the axles only because you have torn CV boots (I show how to replace just the boots to save money):
Front left axle, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Front right axle, AWD: ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado You should make institutional videos professionally cause yours are the best!
I’m going to do some repairs on my 00rav4, great video here. Thanks for sharing it
Thanks! If you're just doing the axles because of torn CV boots, check out these videos, which show how to replace just the boots:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
and for the passenger side, AWD:
ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching! : )
This is the best video by far that I ever seen. You are the best walking step by step. Congratulations and thank you !!
Thank you! I also have videos on replacing the boots for this same model, if that's helpful:
Video for the driver's side CV axle boots, AWD auto:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Video for the passenger side CV axle boots, AWD auto:
ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching! : )
Very good to show step by steps how to fix it. Thanks 👍
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Nice, explicit, concise. Thanks
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Informative, easy to follow, just what we needed. Thank you very much!
Wow just mind blown the best tutorial I’ve ever seen and I’ve lived half my life on this website. So well thought out and explained, you’re the expert we need and definitely don’t deserve. Thank you for your hard work and teaching me something I needed to know.
Thank you! I have a couple other videos on these CV axles, including how to replace just the boots, if you're interested:
Left side:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Right side:
ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you for that! I'm actually going to take your advice and try to keep my OEM axles and repack so definitely was in need of these. Although I have a 2nd generation 03 Rav4 and was wondering if there are several types of transaxles for this generation as well?
Thank GOD I found this video. Fairly new DIY car repair, was stressing super hard about doing this on my Rav4 and you answered every single question I have. Even specific ones like “is it ok to install this ABS axle in my non-ABS vehicle”
I'm so glad the video helped! Thanks for your comment, and good luck with your repair! : )
@@L35inColorado hey question - do I absolutely have to change out the axel seal or could I possibly leave the old one i there?
@@jamesgaudreau8315 No, if the seal is not leaking, you can leave it in place. But definitely change it if it is leaking, though, because you don't want to have a transmission fluid leak. Most shops won't even replace non-leaking seals during an axle swap unless you specifically ask. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado the hex just stripped in the bolt on the sway bar link, both of em.. I think I’m done for unfortunately.
@@jamesgaudreau8315 Uh oh, that's no fun! But don't despair -- stripped hex's are a common issue on sway bar links and tie rod ends, and there are plenty of work-arounds. Here's what I would try:
1.) Do you have access to any impact wrenches (family, neighbor, friend, a little extra money to buy one)? If so, then soak that nut with PB Blaster and let it set for a while, then try again with the impact wrench. That might be enough for this particular application; a good impact can often spin that nut right off so quickly that the bolt doesn't spin. Also, if you happen to have a torch, you can heat the nut up, then hit it with an impact and that usually works very well.
2.) If you don't have any impact access, then I would try cutting off the nut, or using a nut-splitter. There's enough room in there to get an angle grinder or Dremel, and notch out the nut on opposite sides, then it will come off. Or even cleaner and faster is a nut splitter -- nut splitters are easy to use and you can often rent them for free from Autozone, or buy them for under $15. Here is a video of a nut breaker in action on an Audi tie rod end:
ua-cam.com/video/nVXHT6H_WrY/v-deo.html
3.) If that's not an option either, then I'd cut the boot and clamp down on the bolt itself, and try breaking the nut free that way. Here is an example of what I mean on a Honda Civic:
ua-cam.com/video/SewZ6703llc/v-deo.html
4.) Last option would be to cut the boot out and try cutting that bolt with a hacksaw.
Obviously, option #2 requires at least buying new nuts, and options #3 and #4 require new links, because I'd either destroy the boots or destroy the boots and nut. The advantage with option #1 is that it might be possible to re-use the links: the hexes would still be stripped, but with an impact, in a pinch, I could try to get that nut back on there without using the hex. I'd clean up the threads on the bolt very well and the nut, then see if I couldn't spin that nut back on there using the impact without needing the hex (using an impact to install fasteners is a last resort for me because I like to always use a torque wrench for installs). It is not ideal because I wouldn't be using a torque wrench so I wouldn't know that final applied torque, but to mitigate for that uncertainty, I would make some marks to be sure I got the nut back the same number of turns and mark the bolt end to make sure it wasn't spinning with the nut. Again, its not ideal, but there is a way to make it work in a pinch. Otherwise, just buy new links and then you know you'll be able to use a torque wrench, and be good for the next removal.
So there are work arounds! Maybe one of them will work for you. Good luck!
Excellent video you have been thought very well kudos to you and your mentor your parents must be very proud of you. Thank you for everything you do, please keep the great work.
Thanks for watching! : )
I love all your instructional videos. Very detailed and informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Thank you! : )
Thanks so much for all the details, especially for the comment at 43:25. That saved me from a lot of worry!
Cheers, very helpful, much appreciated from Australia
Wow, I am really impressed. You totally rock girl. I must say you are an expert at what you do and you know cars like no man or woman Ive met yet. I cant wait to watch what else you have put out there. Very pleased to have bumped into this video.
Im not much of a social bug, but if you’re anywhere near Stockton, Ca, I would love to meet you in person. Great job!
New Fan,
Alma Alvarez🎉
Thank you : ) I'm no expert - the more I learn, the more I know I'm not an expert and will always be learning more! But I do like to give lots of detail so that we can all have as much info as possible for our repairs, so we can DIY and know the job was done well. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
@@L35inColorado
Well hello there Miss mechanic. I just wanted to thank you for responding to my comment. You are definitely a lot more expert with mechanics than a lot of the mechanics that are posting videos. I’m not trying to say anything negative about anyone else but you by far are the best I’ve seen out there. I am also an advocate about learning as much as you can on a daily basis. Your awesome and have a great evening. Keep up the good work and keep on learning!i
Oh my gosh!!!!!! I just realized that i used a bad word in my post. I did not mean to say that at all! I did not proofread my comment before posting. Everyone my apologies please accept them oh my God I’m so sorry.
Great video totally. I really liked the part numbers that I used . You know your stuff and thank you
Not only are you a dam good mechanic, but this is hands down the most technically complete repair video I've ever seen ! I will be installing one of these in 4 days, on a 96' 2WD automatic / with no ABS. The one on our car had the threaded end snap OFF, and the nut was rattling around in the hub !
Thanks, I hope the video helps! Holy smokes, I'm glad you caught that issue with your axle, and I'm glad no one was hurt...that's pretty wild! Please post back with any tips you learn & would like to share regarding the 2WD axles. Good luck!
I completed the axle install, as well as replacing the wheel bearings (which fell apart when the axle was removed). The toothed ABS ring on the new shaft did NOT cause any problems when installed on a RAV4 with no ABS. Perfectly smooth driving now.......
@@marby602 Well done!! Thanks for sharing, and I'm glad you got it all fixed :) What a crazy experience with that axle nut!
Great job 👏, these rav4s are the best ones ever built , keep up the good work. 👍
They are great cars! Thanks for watching : )
I will be doing a change out of these parts in the next few days.. I'm a bit nervous but I dont have the money to hire a mechanic. THANK YOU for this video. You are a life saver. So much attention to detail.
Your welcome, I hope it helps! If you can, rent the slide hammer tool kit (Advance Auto, rental Powerbilt Kit #41) and the tie rod end separator (Autozone, rental #27276), because they will save you some time and trouble (especially the slide hammer). Good luck and please post back with any comments, questions or tips!
@@L35inColorado my question right now would be... When you did the passenger side... Did you have to take off the support that the axle is going through? Or did you leave it along and just used the slide hammer to get it off? Please help 😅 currently doing this at the moment
Totally Awesome Video! Great job...
Thanks for watching : )
Thanks for the video it helped a lot i hope you make more videos because it's really helpful thanks from Fairmont NC
I'm glad the video helped! I do have some more videos in the pipeline for the Rav4, so stay tuned : )
Very informative video. Thanks a ton! This helped me out a great deal on my 2000 Rav4. 🙌🏽
Wow, that's great -- congrats on your DIY! : )
Great presentation. Subscribed.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I have a couple other CV axle videos for the Rav4, which show the boot replacement, if you're doing that job:
Left front, AWD:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Right front, AWD:
ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
Thanks again for watching : )
Excellent video!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you very much. Excellent video.
Thank you for your comment -- good luck! : )
Very well made informative clip. Well done man!!
Thank you!
Amazing video! Thank you
Thanks -- good luck! : )
Hai maddam...do u have video remove the transfer case ..
No, I don't have a video for removing the transfer case, but if I do that job, I'll try to make a video. Thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for ur reply...I like ur video ... clearly...
Does anybody have a link to the maintenance manual used in in this video? Or know where I could find it? Great video, by the way.
The manual shown is the Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM), Volume 2. Here is an example, for the '00 Rav4:
www.ebay.com/itm/380880991501
Here's one for the '96 (these first-generation Rav4's had a distributor ignition system til '98, so if you have a '98 - '00, then the don't buy the '96 FSM because it the ignition section is different):
www.ebay.com/itm/144471547819
The hard copies are expensive; sometimes there are electronic versions for sale. You can also go to the Toyota TIS website and pay $20, which will grant acess to all Toyota manuals, unlimited, for two days:
techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx
I hope that helps! I recently posted a video of another Rav4 CV axle job, where I show how to replace the boots using the Toyota kit. Here's that video:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColoradoThank you very much!
thank you for great video!Very helpful.
Thanks for watching! : )
Wet well done video. Great job!
Great video, great explanation of the entire process!
Why did you replace only the outer seal?
About to replace left front on my 2005 RAV4, dealership told me both seals are required?
First time doing this on Toyota; my Hondas only have one seal on transmission opening.
There might be different designs on different transaxles, but on this '00 Rav4 4WD Automatic, there is only one drive shaft seal ("output seal") per side. That is usually what you see on Toyotas -- I'm not familiar with any setups that have two axles seals on one side, but I'm not familiar with all setups, either. If the dealer meant the baffle as a sort of "seal", then perhaps that's why they were thinking "two seals" (??), but the baffle is not a seal and there's no need to replace it because the leak is caused by axle seal, not the baffle. I hope that helps -- thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado IDK, your driveshaft looks like my new 2005, with a "step" on the part between the splines and the inner CV joint.
Waiting for the seals to arrive; guess I'll find out soon.
Thanks!
@@pkramer123 Yeah, please post back with what you learn! : )
You do great work. So glad to see what you have put together. Please keep doing this (and for this model :P) Great stuff.
Awesome video. I just had this done by our mechanic for the passenger side. But I hear an odd noise when I'm coming to a stop that sounds like it's rotating from the side thar was replaced. Do you have any idea what that could be?
I'm sorry that happening -- take it back to the mechanic, and have him take a look. There shouldn't be any noises like that after the repair. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the reply! Will be taking back today to have it checked out.
You're AWESOME ☺️
Thanks for watching! : )
I was recently replacing the left front cv axle and chose to purchase a new axle. I had a lot of trouble getting it in. So, out of curiosity, I removed the snap ring and attempted installation. STILL I had trouble. I inspected the channel for the c clip/retainer. There were many burrs left from machining. I deburred it attempted the installation (again without the retaining ring) and had no problem. So, I installed the c clip and then installed the axle which was much, much easier. So, lesson learned? If you buy a new axle, inspect and deburr the axle before attempting installation.
That is an excellent tip - thanks for sharing! I've seen pictures in forums of totally misaligned splines on re-man'd shafts, for example this:
www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/7onanc/after_an_hour_or_so_trying_to_get_a_stubborn_cv/
I've never seen something that bad in person, but I can imagine how it would happen (mis-install, then returned to the store, then re-sold or re-man'd without anyone noticing the defect).
Thanks for sharing your tip, and thanks for watching! : )
We used our dog's choke chain to remove the axle. A pry bar screwdriver will fit in the loop at the end of the choke chain then you use both hands grab hold of the bar and give it a couple tugs and the axle pops out easily.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - that is a GREAT tip!
Thanks for sharing! : )
Do you know the torque specs for replacing a 2017 rav4 xle cv axle by any chance, or how to find them?
I don't know that value -- you can try asking the Rav4 forums (rav4world.com or toyotanation.com) and someone will likely reply with a value (they are a lot of techs on the site with access to Toyota TIS).
If that doesn't work, then you can buy a two-day TIS (Toyota Info Service) pass from Toyota for $20 at this site:
techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx
Through TIS, you'll have access to the entire Factory Service Manual for two days, and that will provide all the steps with some drawings and also all the torque specs.
You can also buy a Haynes Manual, or get the online version for $27 which also includes some videos, including of the axle removal (check their video list):
haynes.com/en-us/toyota/rav4/2013-2018#aplink
You could also try to find a printed or digital copy of the Toyota FSM (factory service manual) on ebay or elsewhere.
I hope that helps -- good luck!
@@L35inColorado thank you for the quick reply and info! I appreciate it.
Couple things I have questions on...
1- does it need to be in park or .....?
2- does the right side need to be out first?
3- how do you tell if clip is right side up or not?
4- if it wont come out can you take off the surround plate to make it easier?
Good questions:
1 - Yes, you keep it in Park: both front wheels must be off the ground, so even in Park you will be able to rotate either wheel, due to the open differential. When you rotate one wheel, the other wheel will rotate in the opposite direction (this is normal).
2 - You can do either side first (or only side at all), but only remove one axle at a time. That is, do one side completely, then do the other side. Don't remove both axles at once. Myself, I also do a test drive after completing one side and before starting the other.
3 - You cannot tell the position of the circ-clip while removing the axle: you might get lucky and the axle pops out on the very first try, or you might have to partially rotate the axle several times until you hit the "sweet spot" where the clip isn't opposing as much. During re-install, you can position the clip with the opening downward to make it easier to pop back in place.
4 - NO - do not remove that plate into which the axle fits; those plates on either side are part of the transaxle itself (or transfer case, for the right side), not part of the axle. Do NOT remove them. Remove only the parts shown in the video.
If the axle is giving you trouble, just keep rotating it and trying again. Sometimes it takes several tries: in my opinion, the slide hammer is the easier, most reliable method for removing these axles (especially given the limited space), so if you can get that slide hammer, you will be in the good shape.
Here are two other videos I've done on other Rav4 front axles, including the passenger side AWD:
ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
I hope that helps - good luck : )
I wish I was a mechanic to fix my own car that would be great. 👍💪
Give it shot -- you can do it!
@@L35inColorado
I have a leaking problem with my Toyota RAV4. Still leaking from the power steering. I am so disappointed and depressed from all the mechanics. No one can't fix it yet. I already spend so much for this problem and still not fixed. I can cry about it.
@@annmarto8169 Oh man, I'm so sorry that is happening to you! If it's any help, one of the common power steering leaks on the Rav4 is the pinion seal -- it is where the intermediate shaft from the steering wheel meets the steering rack. There is a seal there that gets old over time and leaks, and it can cause a big mess and cause power steering fluid to leak everywhere. Sometimes mechanic's don't catch it because there is a cover over the seal.
Here is a description of it with pictures -- it might be something to share with your mechanic if they haven't already checked this spot (it's easy to inspect once you know where it is):
www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-power-steering-rack-seal-pinion-valve-seal-stop-a-common-4-1-ps-leak.264929/
Again, I'm very sorry this is happening to you -- I hope they can fix your power steering soon! : )
Very detailed and camera work. Do you have any other video for replacing the clutch , Toyota Rav4 2001 . AWD. Manual. please let me know.
Thank you so much.
This is next on my calendar. Can't wait! >>> Thank you again!!
Good luck!
Thanks for the great video. So to turn the wheel while removing the axle is the car supposed to on neutral not park. Thanks
LPT: To hold the axle still while removing the nut, I was able to just wedge a stick between the driver seat and brake pedal. Just move the seat forward to hold the pedal down.
Great tip -- thanks for sharing!
Excellent video！Especially the detailed information of the parts.
Thank you -- good luck with your repair, and please post back with any tips you have!
Good job . Where can l purchased 1996 rav4 model automatic transmission booklet ?
Thanks -- if you're looking for a hard copy, then try eBay. If you're looking for a digital copy, then you can buy a two-pass to Toyota's TIS website and download what you need. Here's the TIS link:
techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=-6736666744967300098&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F
Great video! Very well put together! Usually don't find such good tutorials from smaller channels like this. Keep it up! Only suggestion would be to perhaps get a slightly better microphone. Was just a little hard to hear you during some parts. Thanks for making this!
Thanks! I use an old iPhone for all the recording, so I'm pretty low tech and don't have a microphone. Maybe in the future I can upgrade to something like that. Thanks and good luck with your repair!
Where do you place your floor jack when you lift the rear of your RAV4
Awesome work 👌💚,
Well recorded.
Did someone help you to record the video?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I do all the recording myself, but I use a selfie-stick and clamps to hold the iphone in place when I need both hands. I just got a new camera as a gift, so the video quality will be better for my newer videos. Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado I’m so amazed.
You doing two hard work ( mechanic and recording) together in the best quality.
Respect 💚🙏👌
Great video. Very detailed. Would like to attempt this in the coming days . Do you think it would be a good idea to also replace the suspension while at it?
Thanks! Personally, I don't replace the Rav4 suspension parts preventatively. I only replace those parts if there is obvious wear (torn boots, leaks, etc) or a problem (noise, rough ride, etc). In my experience, the Rav4 suspension parts tend to last a long, long time.
That said, I have replaced the original sway bar links (12:28) on several Rav4's because of broken boots, so that is a part you might want to have on hand to replace while you're in there, if you old ones have broken boots.
I hope that helps, and good luck! : )
the manual pages you sometimes show, what are they?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the book is the Toyota FSM (Factory Service Manual), Volume 2. They are still available on ebay, such as this set:
www.ebay.com/itm/381506513057
As you can see, they can be a bit expensive, but if you can only get one, get "Volume 2 Engine Mechanical" because that is the most useful book (and that's what's shown in the video).
An alternative is to use Toyota's TIS online service, which is $20 for two-day access:
techinfo.toyota.com
I didn't change the passenger side CV axle on this Rav4, but have one another AWD, and it is quite similar. However, the 2WD passenger side CV axle is quite different because there is a pressed carrier bearing that makes the job more complicated.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado BIG HELP. thanks for responding and keep up the great work. you are built for this!
What is that blue thing behind the seal. Do all toyotas have it. I have seen people using seal removal tool to get it out without seeing the blue thing. Thanks
Timestamps, Part numbers, and Links are below after these notes:
If you're doing this job and also want to replace the CV boots, check out this video too:
Full DIY on replacing the old CV boots with new boots from they Toyota boot kit:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Here is a video for the passenger/right side AWD axle job (and CV boot replacement):
ua-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/v-deo.html
Note: @Humboldt Aloha commented that they had to pop off the ABS ring on their new axles which they were installing on a non-ABS 2WD automatic in order for the axles to fit the hubs. So, this is different than the 4WD auto's, which don't require this step. Thanks to @Humboldt Aloha for reporting this.
Timestamps and Info:
00:16 Rundown of the steps
01:39 Selecting the correct replacement axle and seal
03:58 Repair starts
04:10 Lift the whole front end
06:33 Remove wheel
06:44 Location of parts to remove
07:50 Disconnect ABS speed sensor and bracket
09:20 Remove Axle Nut
12:27 Remove Sway Bar Link
15:00 Disconnect Outer Tie Rod End
15:39 Tie Rod Remover Tool, Autozone Rental #27276
16:48 Disconnect Ball Joint from Control Arm
18:03 Remove CV axle from wheel hub
19:56 Remove Axle Shield
21:11 Preparing to remove CV axle from transaxle
22:02 Pry/hammer point on CV axle
22:27 Technique for using Pry Bar to remove axle
23:08 Technique for using Slide Hammer to remove axle
25:18 CV Axle removed
25:36 Important notes on Spline Count of different axles
26:15 Detail of C-Clip on axle
27:10 Detail of pry/hammer location on CV axle cup
27:55 How to use a Slide Hammer
28:51 My exact set-up for removing the CV axle (clearance)
29:12 Notes for removing the Transmission Seal (Axle Seal, Shaft Seal)
30:15 Remove Transmission Seal shaft spring
30:56 Remove Transmission Seal with pry bar
32:02 Part number for Transmission Seal (for 4WD Auto: NOK BH3680E)
32:53 Install new Transmission Seal
36:13 Re-greasing wheel bearing (not necessary, just something to do while you're in there)
37:18 Inspecting CV Axle
38:22 Installing new C-Clip (if replacing C-clip)
39:57 Notes about Passenger Side (Right) CV Axle and part #'s
40:52 Reinstall CV Axle
43:50 Reinstall shaft shield
44:06 Insert CV axle into wheel hub
45:21 Reinstall fasteners for Ball Joint to Control Arm (94 ft-lbs)
46:36 Reinstall Sway Bar Link (54 ft-lbs for 4-doors, 36 ft-lbs for 2-doors)
47:17 Reconnect Outer Tie Rod End (36 ft-lbs)
47:56 Reinstall Axle Nut (159 ft-lbs)
48:58 Install Axle Nut Cover and New Cotter Key
49:26 Reinstall ABS sensor and Bracket
49:47 Last check on fasteners
50:30 Replace wheel and drop vehicle (Lugnuts 76 ft-lbs)
50:35 Top-off Transmission Fluid
52:10 How to check ATF level (procedure for Automatics only)
53:38 Good level on ATF dipstick when engine running and warm
54:50 Recheck for leaks
Full DIY on replacing the old CV boots with new boots from they Toyota boot kit:
ua-cam.com/video/C0flMKkEyIg/v-deo.html
Short wheels-on inspection of Transmission/Shaft Seal:
ua-cam.com/video/FzBbz-O7ePI/v-deo.html
Video on using an extension bar to increase the range of your torque wrench:
ua-cam.com/video/hqiISStnb9k/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching! I hope this was helpful for you, and good luck with your repair!
Thanks for your video!! I re used the snapring as I live on an island. Was able to get the shaft back in, everything ok but when I drive a little while the shaft comes back out...Any suggestions?
@@jeanke9230 I'm glad the video helped! Regarding the snap ring: did you re-install the same axle, or use the old snap ring on a new axle?
If you reinstalled the same axle, then perhaps you haven't got it seated fully. As you know, you shouldn't be able to pull it out after you have it seated, and you'll want to turn the axle and check at several places that you cannot pull it out.
Also, if you reinstalled the same axle, but you did some work on it (ie, re-packed the boots, etc), then you might have introduced some air into the boots and didn't properly "burp" the boot, which can cause the suction to effectively shorten the axle (there is a lot of play in the axle length because of the two joints, especially the tripod joint). The "shortened" axle can cause some strange effects, including that it can pop out. Here is an example of what I mean:
www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/burping-cv-boot-simple-fix-inside.156364/
Alternatively, If you re-used the old clip on a NEW axle, then double-check that the new axle's shaft is identical to the old axle: I have seen a couple aftermarket axles that were slightly longer between the c-clip groove and the shaft end than the OEM axle, which might cause the new axle to pop out (because its not fully seated). Also, I have seen aftermarket axles that were a little shorter than the OEM, which would cause the axle to possibly pop out when turning. Matching the length is very important.
Lastly, if you installed a new axle, check that the splines above and below the c-clip actually align with each other: I once saw pictures on a Toyota forum of an aftermarket axle with very poorly machined splines that did not align properly with the transaxle.
Good luck!
@@L35inColorado I used the old snap ring on the old axle, I just replaced the seal...
It was seated, I was not able to pull it out by hand.
Thank you so much for all your help! you are the best!
Great video, I have a 2001 corolla automatic for which I will use this video as a reference. I have two questions. I wanted to make sure, you coated the edge of the new seal that mates to the tranny with ATF? also which MP grease do you recommend?
Yes, I put a light (light) oil of ATF on the outside edge of the seal (the edge that mates to the trans case) to reduce friction during installation. I also put a little MP grease on the backside to keep the spring in place. Then for the inside of the seal (inside lip where the axle shaft rides), I put a light coat of MP grease. Any good quality MP grease is fine for this application -- I use Mobilgrease XHP 222 just because I happen to have a lot of it for my greasing an old L35 skidsteer. Valvoline, Mobil, Lucas -- they all make good grease. Thanks for your comment, and good luck with your Corolla!
@@L35inColorado thank you!!
Hi, I watched this video a while back and just recently had the drivers side CV axle replaced on my 99 Rav4. I have a question, my Rav doesn't have ABS brakes, and when I got it back from the axle replacement I noticed that they did not remove the ABS ring from the new axle, is that going to cause me to have a problem? I didn't notice any noises when I drove it home. Thanks for your reply.
Good question -- in general, if the ABS ring does not interfere with installation, then it will not interfere during operation. I know that for the 4WD Rav4's, you don't have to remove the ABS ring, because I have installed ABS-ringed axles on non-ABS 4WD Rav4's. They have the same steering knuckle, so there is clearance on both for the ABS ring, whether it is there or not. Judging by part numbers, Toyota sells the axles equipped with the ABS ring, even for non-ABS applications (more on this below). And that same steering knuckle is used on 2WD Rav4's.
That said, though, a commentor to this video (@Humbolt Aloha) said that they had to remove the ABS ring to seat the shaft on their 2WD. It is possible that there might be a difference based on the axle, if it is an aftermarket axle. Even that, though, seems a little strange to me because the steering knuckles for the Rav4's are the same (steering knuckle #43212-42010) -- but again, aftermarket makers might have strange specs.
The wheel hubs are different for different models, hence the different outboard spline counts for the axles (to match the different wheel hub spline counts). But the part where the ABS ring spins is in the steering knuckle.
So it *seems* that ABS ringed axles should fit in any Rav4 (since they have the same knuckle) -- but since I haven't done a 2WD, I don't know that for a fact, and again Humbolt Ahola said they had to remove the ring for their 2WD.
These are sample VIN's ABS-equipped and non-ABS '99 4WD automatics:
4WD auto, non-ABS: JT3HP10V4X7131602.
4WD auto, with ABS: JT3HP10V5X7138896.
For those 4WD models, with and without ABS, running the VIN through the parts.toyota.com site shows that they both take the same axle (#43420-42013, for front left), which has an ABS ring on it.
I can't find a sample VIN for 2WD auto with ABS, so I can't replicate that search method for the 2WD models, unfortunately.
Lastly, there are no notes in the FSM about removing the ring for non-ABS units; in general, aftermarket axle makers simply state to remove the ABS ring if it is interfering with installation. So, if you aren't getting any noises, then you're probably fine! Give the installer a call and ask: tell them you noticed the ABS ring and want to verify the fitment. Worse case scenario is that they'd just have to tap the ring off, which they can do without removing the axle. You can also have a look yourself in there, if you'd like: lift the front end (both wheels off the ground), remove the wheel and turn the shaft. If there is no interference, then you are good!
@@L35inColorado Mine is AWD, forgot to mention that in my question. Sorry, I will have to drive it a ways on Monday, I will listen for any noises. And you probably won't remember but I asked you about a noise coming from my automatic trans a few moths ago, I checked everything you mentioned and I ended up having to put in a used trans, it was still expensive but the car is in such great shape otherwise and I didn't want to scrap it. My CV boot just started leaking recently and I think it was partly caused by it being old and also because the guys at the trans shop probably let it hang while working on removing the trans. I will be watching for the pass. side to start leaking next. Otherwise it has been running great. Thanks so much for your detailed reply and I still don't believe that you are just a "backyard mechanic," you are way too knowledgeable for that! Take care.
YA LO INTENTE PERO NO SE ACTIVAN,Y SON EXELENTES TUS VIDEOS,PERO MI INGLES NO ES MU BUENO,ESPERO SE PUEDAN ACTIVAR,ESTOY SUSCRITO A TU CANAL,GRACIAS Y BENDICIONES!!!👍👍👍
Great video. What book did you use to show the exploded view of the cv axle in the beginning of your video? Did you change the passenger side cv axle as well?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the book is the Toyota FSM (Factory Service Manual), Volume 2. They are still available on ebay, such as this set:
www.ebay.com/itm/381506513057?fits=Year%3A1999%7CModel%3ARAV4&hash=item58d38f68a1:g:ZcIAAOSwDJFdFRV~
As you can see, they can be a bit expensive, but if you can only get one, get "Volume 2 Engine Mechanical" because that is the most useful book (and that's what's shown in the video).
An alternative is to use Toyota's TIS online service, which is $20 for two-day access:
techinfo.toyota.com
I didn't change the passenger side CV axle on this Rav4, but have one another AWD, and it is quite similar. However, the 2WD passenger side CV axle is quite different because there is a pressed carrier bearing that makes the job more complicated.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
Hi, I LOVE your videos! so detailed, I wish you were located near me, I'm in PA. Question, I am having a problem with the front diff on my 99 Rav4, (4WD, automatic, ), it makes a noise when driving and is very easy to hear from start off until 30mph, (rotating noise, ) I have narrowed down the noise to definitely coming from the front diff. not the hub bearing, my car runs fine otherwise, shifts fine, only 145k, good condition, I've spent money to fix some other things on it and don't want to get rid of it. It is a one owner and I have only had it a year. I keep hearing horror stories (from friends) that this is going to be an expensive job to remove the front diff to see what is wrong and repair it. I was going to start off by changing the gear oil in both the front and rear diff. (not sure when it was ever done before) but I have a feeling that this is not going to stop my noise, something is probably worn, my question is how long, how much labor hours is it to remove the front diff and would I be better off taking it to a Toyota dealership verses a transmission shop to have it done? I'm definitely not going to try and do it myself. I hope you can see this post and thank you so much in advance for your reply.
I'm sorry that's happening to you! The Rav4 has a transaxle, which means that the front diff is integrated into the transmission, so it doesn't have a "front diff" per se, but rather it's a transaxle setup. Transaxles don't have differentials that are isolated from the "rest" of the transmission, like you see for example in a vehicle that would have a "regular" transmission bolted to the engine, then a front diff bolted to the transmission, and drive shafts connected to the differential. The Rav4 has a transaxle bolted to the engine, and the drive shafts enter the transaxle (not a front diff). So the Rav4 doesn't have a "front diff" or "front diff oil" per se because the diff and lubricant is not separate from the transmission or the transmission lubricant, which for your automatic means Toyota T-IV ATF. All this is to say that when you change the transmission fluid on your Rav4, you are also changing the oil that lubricates the "front diff" since the front diff is integrated into the trans and there is no "front diff oil" per se to change.
The 4WD on the Rav4 is AWD and works through a transfer case, which is a chain-driven device that transfers rotation from the transaxle to the propeller shaft, and then the prop shaft connects to the rear diff. The transfer case DOES have its own oil -- you can check the transfer case oil with a rather hard-to-reach dipstick located behind the right front tire. You have to turn the steering wheel all the way left to reach it. Then you can reach your left hand in, and its an orange plastic handle. It is a very short dipstick. The transfer case takes gear oil and it is fairly common that people forget to change it, but it should be changed every 30K miles (I use Mobil-1 75W-90). It is easy to change -- just open the drain plug, drain the oil, slip on a new drain plug gasket, tighten the drain plug (29 ft-lbs), and refill through the dipstick tube:
www.rav4world.com/threads/first-diy-transfer-case-fluid-change-w-pics.71976/
As for the rear diff, there are two types on the '99 AWD's: a standard rear diff and a Torsen Limited Slip (LSD) rear diff. The easiest way to find out which yours has is to just run your VIN at the Toyota VIN lookup website, and it will indicate if you have a "Limited Slip Differential" (the Torsens were an upgrade feature and are not as common as the standard, non-Torsen rear diff's). If you have a Torsen rear diff, you need to use a special friction modifier when you change the rear diff oil, which you read about here in post #7:
www.rav4world.com/threads/limited-slip-rav4.181330/
As for your noise: there are quite a few possibilities. I would be looking at the wheel bearings first, especially in PA where there might be water intrusion/rust. If that checked out, then I would check the CV joints (especially if they had been replaced with aftermarket axles). If that checked out, then perhaps it could be a carrier bearing on the prop shaft or transfer case or transaxle (like a shaft bearing in the trans, since you said it shifts fine and otherwise runs well), but those issues are rather rare on Rav4's. You might want to make a post on the rav4world.com forum and see if others there can help you. There are some great minds there - be sure to post only in the "4.1" forum under the "Faults and Fixes."
Lastly, personally, I wouldn't take it to a Toyota dealer: a reputable independent Toyota shop (or a shop that focuses on Asian vehicles) will do better work, have more pride, and give a better price than your average Toyota dealership. But hopefully it will be something that you can do yourself and not a major deal! Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for all that info! I will check in to it more first before I jump to conclusions. I will keep in touch.
@@L35inColorado And I'm just curious, do you have your own shop or work for a Asian car repair shop?
@@jlc7300 Nope, I'm just a shadetree mechanic!
@@L35inColorado Hi, I read your reply in detail and did most of the things you suggested after work today. I checked my vin and I don't have the special rear axle. I jacked up all 4 wheels today and had a friend start up the car and put it in drive while I layed slightly under the front end to see exactly where the noise was coming from, to my horror it was coming from the transmission/transaxle pan area. I could put my hand on the pan and tell. I am going to start off by having the fluid and filter changed tomorrow as I recall that when I bought the car 10 months ago with 140k on it I only drained the fluid and didn't drop the pan to change the filter. I am hoping that this makes a difference as it has only been making this noise a short time. it's more like a dry friction/rubbing type noise not a clunking or knocking.
Part of my horror is that I am told by others that on this type of vehicle if the problem can't be fixed by taking the pan off and working from there then the only way to take the trans out is by taking the whole engine/trans assembly out, do you know if this is true? if this is the case then I will have to probably get rid of my Rav as I know I won't have the funds to pay for all the labor that will probably be involved to remove the engine and then for them to take the trans to a shop to have it fixed and pay their labor bill and then put everything back together. I did make a post like this on the Rav site and will look for any replies there as well as looking for your reply on what else I can do to fix this problem. I'm going to lose sleep over this now until I find out the outcome. I really liked my Rav and it runs fine other wise and was hoping to keep it for several years but if I have to go thru all this labor to fix it then that's the end of it for me. Thank you so much! I appreciate anything that you can suggest.
Hi Lisa, can you please tell me what the part number for the passenger side drive shaft seal is you used at 41:36 ? Is it the National oil seal 710115 or was that for the drivers side? Thanks - Dan
Did you ever find the part number for the right side seal? I need to find it.
Atf is used in
Trans
Diff
Power steering
Forgot to post this on your other video.👍
Yes, exactly -- that's why it so difficult sometimes to pin down an ATF leak on an automatic. Also, the original factory-fill ATF that Toyota used in the Rav4 power steering system is undyed (brown) so it looks like very dirty regular (red) ATF and even like engine oil, if its dirty enough. ATF has that distinct smell though, so that's a good way to distinguish it from engine oil even if its very dirty and looks like engine oil.
The transfer case on 4WD Rav4's uses a heavy (and very smelly) gear oil, so its not usually mistaken for anything other than gear oil, but this ATF leak and also the PS leak can end up all over the transfer case and make people think the transfer case is leaking.
Thanks for your comment!
I love watching your videos. I happen to have a 2000 AWD with the same transmission (A540H) and model code (SXA11L-AWPGKA) as your RAV in this video except mine does not have ABS and my transaxle code is NO 815. I am working on the passenger side. You show a short segment with that CV axle. Would you happen to know the model number of that axle?
great video. if you can put some links for the parts used in this video would be awesome.... (the toyota part # for the drive shaft is for a manual transmission not an automatic).... it will fit whatsoever...
Thanks -- The part number shown at 25:57 (Toyota #43420-42013) is for either the automatic or manual AWD Rav4's for the following years, according to the Toyota site (the info below is pasted from the Toyota site -- click the link, then click on "What this Fits" to see this same list there):
Toyota RAV4 2.0L A/T Coupe SOFTTOP: 1998, 1999, 2000
Toyota RAV4 2.0L A/T HARDTOP: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
Toyota RAV4 2.0L M/T Coupe HARDTOP: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
Toyota RAV4 2.0L M/T Coupe SOFTTOP: 1998, 1999, 2000
Toyota RAV4 2.0L M/T HARDTOP: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
Toyota RAV4 A/T HARDTOP: 1996
Toyota RAV4 M/T Coupe HARDTOP: 1996
Toyota RAV4 M/T HARDTOP: 1996
Link:
parts.toyota.com/p/69301993/4342042013.html
I'm reluctant to put up links because links can change and I might be linking bad information and not even know it. The Toyota Parts site is consistent and is managed by Toyota, so I'm okay with linking them.
An efficient way to research parts is to use RockAuto.com (and NapaOnline, but RockAuto is usually more effective in finding part numbers). RockAuto has a very strong search engines which will cross-references parts numbers.
With axles, though, because there are so many transmission combinations on the gen-1 Ra4's, just be sure to double/triple/quadruple-check the compatibility before ordering (that's why I mentioned the spline counts), because it is easy to order the wrong one! Or sometimes you order the right one but they send the wrong one, so be sure to check the replacement axle out before starting the install.
Here is an example of what you get when you put that Toyota part number (43420-42013) into the Rock Auto search engine:
www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=4342042013
As for the seal: just google the part number (either as NOK or National), and there are a number of places you can buy that.
I hope that helps -- Good luck!
Hey, sorry for the off topic post, but do you happen to know the best way to get the driver's side motor/trans mount off (the one under the airbox)? The top two bolts, as well as the through bolt/nut are easy to get out, but the bottom two are difficult to get access to. It seems like removing the trans bracket would give me better access, but those bolts dont have a ton of clearance either. I know this has nothing to do with your video, but you are very thorough and RAV4world/service manuals don't give me much info. I love my gen1 Rav4, but documentation for servicing them is... scarce, in my experience.
Do you mean those two bolts that go horizontally through the mount into the body? I'm in the bay right now for a charcoal canister and can see if I have a tool combination that might work. (I agree that those bolts for the transmission bracket are probably even harder to reach.) Let me see what I can get on those horizontal bolts...
@@L35inColorado I was talking about the two bolts that go horizontally into the body, yeah. Not sure why I didn't think of it sooner, went at them from the bottom through the wheel well with a big adjustable crescent wrench. Now I just have to figure out how to get the holes to line back up for the new mount, then drop the subframe for the last mount in the back. Thank you for your time though. Please, keep making great content for this car. I really appreciate it.
@@jacksonbrusseaux4754 Yes, for those I use a combination wrench for the front one (remove the air duct for more clearance), and for the back one, a combination wrench but reaching through the wheel well with the wheel removed. To align the holes, you can use an allen wrench or a rod that's a smaller diameter than the bolts -- put the rod through the hole on the mount and into the threaded hole, then use the rod to move the mount into alignment. An "L" shaped Allen wrench ought to fit in that tight space. There's no way to get a torque wrench on those horizontal bolts (at least not that I know!), but the FSM says that the torque is 38 ft-lbs if you'd like to torque down the vertical bolts. I don't have a value for the thru bolt & nut.
I haven't done that rear mount, which I've heard is tricky. Good luck and thanks for updating!
Any ideas on how to fix the oil coming from the weep hole of the Transfer Case of Toyota Rav 99? Can I put a plug to the hole?
I'm sorry that's happening to you -- No, I'm not familiar with that, and personally I would not plug any transfer case weep holes (also called vents) -- I'm not familiar with that issue occurring on the gen-1 Rav4, but on the newer AWD Rav4s (and Highlanders), a leak like that was typically caused by defective o-ring/seal which allowed transmission fluid/oil to enter into the transfer case, which caused the transfer case to overfill and leak. Obviously, if transmission fluid is leaking into the transfer case, there is a big problem. I would try to determine the cause of the leak. I would check your transmission fluid level to eliminate such a leak as a cause of overfilling.
@@L35inColorado Thank you. Hope you'll have a detailed tutorial just like the rest of your videos soon for I can't find one in UA-cam specific with the transfer case of Rav4 99.
Very well done - Thank you!
You're welcome -- good luck!
I. Have a manual am I going to to everything the same way?
Yes, the suspension components and torque values are all the same, but the axle itself is a different part number for the MT (manual trans) than the AT (auto trans) shown in the video, so be sure to order an MT axle and compare it to the axle you remove -- ie, length, spline count on each end, etc. Overall, the MT and AT axles look similar but they are different parts.
But otherwise, yes, the MT axle comes out just the same way and is installed in just the same way as the left side AT axle shown in the video.
If you're also replacing the output seal (transmission seal, as shown in the video), be sure to double-check that part number with your parts dealer because I don't know if that seal is the same for the MT and AT (I *think* it is, but I'm not sure, and they will be able to tell you).
Lastly, if you lose enough fluid that you have to re-fill any, since you have a manual transmission, you will refill with whatever gear oil you use. If you're not sure which one, the specs from Toyota are shown in the later part of the video when I'm re-filling. The video shows an AT, so I'm re-filling with ATF through the dipstick, but on your MT, there is no dipstick and you will use gear oil instead. So you'll just refill through the 24mm refill plug on the side of the transmission.
If you're just swapping in a new axle and not replacing the seal, you might not even lose enough gear oil that you'd even need to refill any.
I hope this helps : ) Good luck!
Thank you so much for all the information I appreciate it very much
How do you like those Geo Lander tires? Also do you have a lift and what size are your tires?
I really like the Geolanders! They are the Geolandar A/T GO15 in size 225/70R16. And no, I don't have a lift -- the 225/70/16 tires fit the factory wheels (as you can see), and add just a little height; mostly, they just give it a better look. There is no rubbing with that size, either.
I highly recommend the Geolandars, and this is my second set. I was just out in the snow today with them and they did great!
Do you have the right side ?? Very nice work by the way!
Thank you -- no, I don't have a video on the right side drive shaft, but on the AWD the repair is very similar (the RHS AWD shaft is shown in the video at about 35:57).
But the right side on the 2WD is quite different, though, because there is a carrier bearing and large snap ring -- if you're doing the right side on a 2WD Rav4, you can get some idea of the work by watching videos for the right side shaft on the Camry or Corolla from similar late-90's years (the parts are different, but the set-up is similar with the carrier bearing and large snap ring). There is also a difference on the right side between the 2WD automatics (AT) and 2WD manuals (MT). You typically need a press to remove the bearing from the bearing case/bracket. I hope that helps!
Here's a link to a pdf for that section of the FSM -- skip to about page 21, then read carefully because there's different info for the 2WD and AWD and MT and AT transmission:
www.rav4world.com/attachments/sa-pdf.84329/
Good luck! Thanks for watching : )
Son buenos todos tus videos, pero en español, mi amigo, sería de mucho más la ayuda que tu nos das. Hazlo por favor
Gracias -- pero no hablo espanol! Quiero entenderlo, pero todavía no lo he logrado : ) Esta en mi lista de cosas para aprender, haha.
Buena suerte con tus reparaciones!
Hey I replaced RH axle seal on automatic 2011 four cylinder rav4
New seal we put in seemed to have a small gap between the shaft and inner seal diameter. Is that normal? I thought it would be tight on the shaft with inner diameter of seal.
No obvious leaks after quick test drive. But I don’t see how it won’t start to leak without the seal hugging the shaft ?
Is this some sort of crazy magic design that just works?
To follow up it’s not a seal from the dealership. I Ordered through a local parts shop and they found a acceptable alternate part number. The outer diameters are bang on perfect but the old one had a slightly smaller inner diameter then the new one. Leaving a gap between the seal and axle shaft.
the dust cover makes it hard to see what’s really going on when it’s fully installed
I do not know -- if it is not similar to what you saw when you removed the old seal, then yes, that would be strange. Perhaps give your local Toyota shop a call, and describe the situation and they might be able to tell you. Good luck!
Any chance anyone knows that baffle part number ? Would be great!
Great video! Did you use the same seal 710115 for both driver and front passenger? About to order mine and just want to be sure, 1997 rav4 auto awd non abs
Thanks, I hope the videos helps your job! The part number for the seal shown (the driver's/left side) only comes back as a fit for the left side. I'm not sure about the right side seal. The setup on the right is a bit different, too, as the seal is behind a dust cover so it's harder to see. Give your local Toyota dealer a call and ask if they can help you out with a part number. Also, I use the Toyota parts database, which you can check out here: be sure to take note of the different transmissions because there are several available, as mentioned in the video. This is an example link for the left side output seal search results (multiple transmissions shown):
parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_1997_RAV4/63189563__6721609/FRONT-DRIVE-SHAFT/662410-4302.html
Good luck!
Hi, I wrote back about the Rav4 results down below, not sure if you saw it.
Yes, I did miss it, but I just responded below on that thread!
Very good thank you