Nice job. I have used a product called Frog Lube on barrel of an old Crosman 760 that I polished. It has sat in my garage for over five years and it has nit rusted any at all. I highly recommend that product. One heats up the metal with a hair dryer or heat gun, then apply the Frog Lube, let it sit for a while, then wipe excess off.
I really liked the video. Thanks and you helped me decide to do one of my guns now. I wish the other guys would have posted a picture of their finished project.
I just finished up polishing my 4 3/4 to a nice shine(chrome or Nicole shine) mine i polished all of it including both cylinders. It came out pretty nice according to everyone who sees it.
So far after 2 years i had a little tarnish on the 4.75 but more mothers wax it went back to looking as it did when I finished them the first time the 6.5 has stayed like it was just done. I think but not positive I believe it was handling while shooting it and when I cleaned them I got lazy and didn't wipe the metal for the grip area like I did on the 6.5.
@@andylambert8164 I did the 4.75 first by sanding the finish off then kept stepping up to higher grade then when I got to 1000 grit i wet sanded the 2000 grit wet sanding the hand polished it. But found a better way from a friend by taking my 6.5 completely apart and soaking the parts I wanted in vinigar for 24 hours. And was able to take the finish off much easier then some steel wool an water then a drama tool and it looked pretty good when finished. Wished i could share pics old show when I first got them and after I stripped and polished them
The Zamak finish gets dark. Actually if it's done right with the rest of the gun it can look pretty cool with certain grips. Kinda aged like a Rooster colt model or something like that. But a quick polishing can get it back. It's oxidized looking.
Yes. But watch how long. It will eat the metal. It will start to turn grey but paint will remain and will be bubbled in certain areas. I still used a buffing wool bit and it removed without effort. Again, I've seen the pot metal handles will get eaten and pitted if they are in vinegar too long.
Yes on the vinegar I soak mine for 30 min max make sure to degrease everything first rinse well and polish a lot less work with same if not better results
Vinegar will not remove the paint coating on the frame, only the bluing on the barrel, but the vinegar will also rust the inside of the barrel. It is better to remove the bluing on barrel with fine sandpaper and metal polish.
At first I didn't like it b/c the lawyer warning is even bolder after. However, I think if you removed all the black and used a plumb color on her it could look good. My RR barrel black was poor from factory.
It was great. I left the barrel, 1215 steel with the bluing. I also left the 22.LR cylinder blue but I polished the .22 mag one so I had both looks. NOTE: watch how long you buff is the wool or any wheel buffer. It will get hot, and once it gets hot too much or long, the barrel can start to loosen up out of the frame. The epoxy, like red Loctite, will be activated and looses it's hold. You can easily remedy that with your own application or red Loctite later again. Still very very cool.
LOOKS AWESOME 😎 IT LOOKS NICER THAN THE WAY IT CAME,. I would like to see what if anything "super blue " does ,. I know it's supposed to only work with Ferris iron type metal, but I would like to give it a try to see if I can get that fire hardened authentic look, they do make one for aluminum but it says aluminum black I don't really want it black I want it to look like the real bluing effect , if it doesn't work I'll just leave it Nickel a look .
It's ZAMAK 5 for the frame. Zink, Aluminum, Magnesium and Copper. I've used it on Aluminum, but not one of these frames. Chemical would be less of a heat up on the metal. I would try it. The barrel is epoxied in like red locktite. So I would have gone chemical but kept the barrel blued in the long run.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi .... sacrifice yours first ? Hahaha I'm kidding. I'm just getting wear from scaring the rabbits then reholstering. The barkeep is fine . The 4.75 or what have you. Is wearing fast. I tested small section w a few compounds. Wasn't too thrilled with how strong the blue still was so I stopped without much effect
Oh, that was easy. Originally it was just fading away from using Hoppes 9 Black cleaner. It really upset me, and happened after just a few weeks. That is what led to this. You can actually just use a rotary tool with a wool polishing bit of several sizes. Just wipe on either Mothers, Flitz, Blue, or any of the metal polishers out there. They are fine in grit and won't cut into the metal. They will just take the finish off by going back and forth with the polishing agent. It will be gone in no time. The hardened looking finish is really only that. The painted parts need more of a white vinegar to soften paint and you have to use rougher methods.
Try some White Diamond. Does better than the flitz without that horrible smell. It is also a polish and sealer in one. Flitz looks and smells the same as blue magic ... wonder if they are the same company??
@@TechReviewbyIrdi I don’t think you understand what you’ve done. The frame is made of mostly Zinc. It must be coated or plated to prevent corrosion and you removed it. The frame alloy will now break down, it was a horrible decision.
We do. We work with metal at Betchel all the time. We received a product here in the steel city (from steel city tools and Penn)for the zamak 5 to seal it out of Blairesville. It had to be stripped again. We dismantled it and sealed it with something more long term. They bake it a 128 and turns a tint of brown yellow before getting sprayed for cleaning. If it's shiny going in, it's shiny and has a glass feel to it. We had to have them change it from a Zamak 3 to a Zamak 5 coating for the difference in the 3 metal ratio. It's been over a year, still on display. It's one of 9 pistols done for the heritage folks and Nickolas. You can research coating Zamak 5. Not that hard for coating.
Nice! My brand new "case hardened" Rough Rider already had the finish wearing away in many spots after just 1 month / 300 rounds. Yours looks beautiful but I don't have the patience or will to go that far. Spent 15 minutes buffing with 0000 steel wool instead and got it looking a dull silver rather than the dull golden/rainbow finish it had before. I dig it!
Not to worry. It's been dipped and coated in a ceramic sealer as well. Still shines even after 7 months. The term corrode doesn't apply on this alloy. Zamak will not corrode but will tarnish to grey without treament. And it's way more tolerant than stainless steel or silver that's uncoated. There are several great brands for coating aluminum based alloys to keep them luster without a lot of maintenance. Flitz is the cheaper out there, but a different package than the polish.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi that is not true whatsoever. Anyone who looks up Zamak will learn that it’s simply a fancy version of pot metal. It’s super cheap and mostly zinc with a few other metals added in trace amounts. This product must be coated in order to keep it from breaking down.
Nice work dude! 👍👍👀 Thanks for the Flitz love!!
Any time! Love the stuff. I got to get more ceramic sealer.
Absolutely love it. I own 3 of these rough rider revolvers. Really enjoy watching your program. Gives me some ideas.
Great job. Nice work very informative.
Thank you!
Looks great 👍
Thanks 👍
@TechReviewbyIrdi a lot or patience and a lot of work.
Nice work, good attention to detail. New subscriber!
Fantastic!
Nice job. I have used a product called Frog Lube on barrel of an old Crosman 760 that I polished. It has sat in my garage for over five years and it has nit rusted any at all. I highly recommend that product. One heats up the metal with a hair dryer or heat gun, then apply the Frog Lube, let it sit for a while, then wipe excess off.
Looks good.👍I doubt I’ll do it to the few heritages I own . But I like how yours came out.
I really liked the video. Thanks and you helped me decide to do one of my guns now. I wish the other guys would have posted a picture of their finished project.
Just need the white pearl grips on it now!!
I just finished up polishing my 4 3/4 to a nice shine(chrome or Nicole shine) mine i polished all of it including both cylinders. It came out pretty nice according to everyone who sees it.
That is awesome!
I know I'm probably late but how's it holding up? And what steps in order did you take?
So far after 2 years i had a little tarnish on the 4.75 but more mothers wax it went back to looking as it did when I finished them the first time the 6.5 has stayed like it was just done. I think but not positive I believe it was handling while shooting it and when I cleaned them I got lazy and didn't wipe the metal for the grip area like I did on the 6.5.
@@andylambert8164 I did the 4.75 first by sanding the finish off then kept stepping up to higher grade then when I got to 1000 grit i wet sanded the 2000 grit wet sanding the hand polished it. But found a better way from a friend by taking my 6.5 completely apart and soaking the parts I wanted in vinigar for 24 hours. And was able to take the finish off much easier then some steel wool an water then a drama tool and it looked pretty good when finished. Wished i could share pics old show when I first got them and after I stripped and polished them
I definitely like it but if it were mine I would polish the trigger
Is there anyway I can remove the matte finish off my revolver?
Cool,cool,looking,gun
Thank you.
Looks great...
Very nice
Sweet looking
Looks nice!
What would happen if you don't seal the finish or neglect it for too long? Considering on doing this to mine but it's gonna get a lot of holster wear.
The Zamak finish gets dark. Actually if it's done right with the rest of the gun it can look pretty cool with certain grips. Kinda aged like a Rooster colt model or something like that. But a quick polishing can get it back. It's oxidized looking.
Dope
Very Cool
Is it possible to just remove the grips and then submerge it in vinegar to remove all the bluing and then polish everything?
Yes. But watch how long. It will eat the metal. It will start to turn grey but paint will remain and will be bubbled in certain areas. I still used a buffing wool bit and it removed without effort. Again, I've seen the pot metal handles will get eaten and pitted if they are in vinegar too long.
Yes on the vinegar I soak mine for 30 min max make sure to degrease everything first rinse well and polish a lot less work with same if not better results
Vinegar will not remove the paint coating on the frame, only the bluing on the barrel, but the vinegar will also rust the inside of the barrel. It is better to remove the bluing on barrel with fine sandpaper and metal polish.
Finish it
At first I didn't like it b/c the lawyer warning is even bolder after. However, I think if you removed all the black and used a plumb color on her it could look good. My RR barrel black was poor from factory.
Hey that’s cool. My son always liked shiney pistols, might hafta do him one. Did you do the rest and what do you think?
It was great. I left the barrel, 1215 steel with the bluing. I also left the 22.LR cylinder blue but I polished the .22 mag one so I had both looks. NOTE: watch how long you buff is the wool or any wheel buffer. It will get hot, and once it gets hot too much or long, the barrel can start to loosen up out of the frame. The epoxy, like red Loctite, will be activated and looses it's hold. You can easily remedy that with your own application or red Loctite later again. Still very very cool.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi Thanks for the ‘heat’ warning. I’m going to try to ‘age’ one like a 1873 Colt.
Outstanding!
What did you use to seal it?
Flitz Ceramic sealer. There are other brands. Works pretty good even when shooting all month.
LOOKS AWESOME 😎 IT LOOKS NICER THAN THE WAY IT CAME,. I would like to see what if anything "super blue " does ,. I know it's supposed to only work with Ferris iron type metal, but I would like to give it a try to see if I can get that fire hardened authentic look, they do make one for aluminum but it says aluminum black I don't really want it black I want it to look like the real bluing effect , if it doesn't work I'll just leave it Nickel a look .
I wonder if aircraft remover would work
It's ZAMAK 5 for the frame. Zink, Aluminum, Magnesium and Copper. I've used it on Aluminum, but not one of these frames. Chemical would be less of a heat up on the metal. I would try it. The barrel is epoxied in like red locktite. So I would have gone chemical but kept the barrel blued in the long run.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi .... sacrifice yours first ? Hahaha I'm kidding. I'm just getting wear from scaring the rabbits then reholstering. The barkeep is fine . The 4.75 or what have you. Is wearing fast. I tested small section w a few compounds. Wasn't too thrilled with how strong the blue still was so I stopped without much effect
The fish tank makes me wanna pee...lol
There's a 21" Pleco in it. Yes, it does.
Looks great , have you oiled it up or put anything on to prevent the finish from becoming dull ?
Ceramic wax and hand cloth. Once every two months or so, depending of your use and firing.
How did you get the original “case hardened” finish?
Get off*
Oh, that was easy. Originally it was just fading away from using Hoppes 9 Black cleaner. It really upset me, and happened after just a few weeks. That is what led to this. You can actually just use a rotary tool with a wool polishing bit of several sizes. Just wipe on either Mothers, Flitz, Blue, or any of the metal polishers out there. They are fine in grit and won't cut into the metal. They will just take the finish off by going back and forth with the polishing agent. It will be gone in no time. The hardened looking finish is really only that. The painted parts need more of a white vinegar to soften paint and you have to use rougher methods.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi thank you I tried it with a rag and it came right off, I will be trying to go in depth on it this weekend 👍🏼
Try some White Diamond. Does better than the flitz without that horrible smell. It is also a polish and sealer in one.
Flitz looks and smells the same as blue magic ... wonder if they are the same company??
Will do.
Congratulations you’ve destroyed the gun.
It's a beautiful piece. It's featured now "The Rough Rider and Its Heritage" book. You can get it on Amazon by the author Nicholas R. M. Martin
@@TechReviewbyIrdi I don’t think you understand what you’ve done. The frame is made of mostly Zinc. It must be coated or plated to prevent corrosion and you removed it. The frame alloy will now break down, it was a horrible decision.
We do. We work with metal at Betchel all the time. We received a product here in the steel city (from steel city tools and Penn)for the zamak 5 to seal it out of Blairesville. It had to be stripped again. We dismantled it and sealed it with something more long term. They bake it a 128 and turns a tint of brown yellow before getting sprayed for cleaning. If it's shiny going in, it's shiny and has a glass feel to it. We had to have them change it from a Zamak 3 to a Zamak 5 coating for the difference in the 3 metal ratio. It's been over a year, still on display. It's one of 9 pistols done for the heritage folks and Nickolas. You can research coating Zamak 5. Not that hard for coating.
Nice! My brand new "case hardened" Rough Rider already had the finish wearing away in many spots after just 1 month / 300 rounds.
Yours looks beautiful but I don't have the patience or will to go that far. Spent 15 minutes buffing with 0000 steel wool instead and got it looking a dull silver rather than the dull golden/rainbow finish it had before. I dig it!
Now it’s going to corrode and turn gray and look like crap.
Not to worry. It's been dipped and coated in a ceramic sealer as well. Still shines even after 7 months. The term corrode doesn't apply on this alloy. Zamak will not corrode but will tarnish to grey without treament. And it's way more tolerant than stainless steel or silver that's uncoated. There are several great brands for coating aluminum based alloys to keep them luster without a lot of maintenance. Flitz is the cheaper out there, but a different package than the polish.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi that is not true whatsoever. Anyone who looks up Zamak will learn that it’s simply a fancy version of pot metal. It’s super cheap and mostly zinc with a few other metals added in trace amounts. This product must be coated in order to keep it from breaking down.
Don’t worry…treat it like any blued firearm…a little gun oil occasionally, and it will be fine!