Saw Cutting Contraction Joints In Concrete Floors & Slabs (Does It Really Work?)
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- #EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete
Saw cutting contraction joints in concrete floors and slabs. Does saw cutting joints in concrete really work?
This video shows us saw cutting some of our floors and garage slabs.
I'll show you how I saw cut my joints and what I use to do my saw cuts.
Saw cutting contraction or expansion joints helps control shrinkage cracks in floors and slabs.
We saw cut all our concrete floors to help control shrinkage cracking. For the most part it works really well.
I use the Husqvarna Soff-Cut X150 Prowler saw to cut my joints. This is the best saw for cutting early and cutting green concrete.
I highly recommend getting this saw if you need to cut joints like we do. It'll save you a lot of time and pay for itself in no time.
It makes cutting joints very easy and is lightweight so one person can handle it pretty easy.
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He's got balls plunging that saw into the existing cuts. I always turn the saw off. Drop the blade into the existing cut. Then restart the saw. Perfect every time
That’s what I thought 😳 big balls that’s impressive 🤯 I’m scared enough just plunging the saw on the chalk line to start my cut lol
Yes, use both guides.That's a must and check your guys before you start cutting
the fiber mesh you were pouring with last week is a good job, mesh is not used properly and is on the bottom of the pour mike, fiber mesh is the whole way through the mix and prevents cracking,i have poured slabs for myself and never cut from 2000 to 5000 square feet ,with mesh you will still get cracking with fiber it seems to be a whole lot better in my opinion
Edit: Score it 25% depth of concrete, not 1/4 inch. Guide arm is missing 😅 you a pro 👍
Yeah I think he misspoke.
Exactly
Yeah, a quarter of the depth!
We do. Our selfs. Or our floor guy if were to busy. Went to zip strip when we pour. , love it great crack control
I did zip strip for years before these saws, I'm not a big fan of it myself.
Hard to get the zip straight and if u aint got alot of people it can become a hassle.i just cut the job the next day in summer.sometimes ill wait 3 days in the winter because of chipping
@@nickieb5297 mark on each wall. Quick string across put grade stakes in line zip strip tiny piece duck tape to pin. Works great straight as an arrow. And grade all same time. We dont saw cut. Cracks nice straight
I have 2 of them saws. They work great. You want at least 2 inch deep cuts. You dont want to cut to green or will chip the edges. But useing these saws for years. Dont eye it. Use both guides. yes it shakes a little but you will learn the saw. You want your joints straight as can be. A big long driveway will look like shit if your cut is not straight. But thanks for taking the time you do to make the videos you do. Just want to say my kids work with me to
My guys won't use the cheap guide, they been sawing with it like this for years, straighter than with using the guide. Other than that, they love the saw.
thnx for the commentary ben afflick from goodwill hunting,, excellent job
Very instructional video Mike. Thanks for the continued excellent videos 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
We just got the same saw the guys love it
We have the same saw, and it’s the best saw ever on garages like this one we put our drain
In Diamond shape so we cut on corners just a suggestion.
Good Tip, thanks. We like them square like this.
👍
nice saw
quite an instructive video. how would we measure these on drawings? Any thumb rule?
Been wanting to get a saw. Looking at the medusaw since we don't cut much with saw. Mostly by hand. Looking good! Great videos.
Got to cut next day with that one. We couldn't do that with all we pour.
I usually cut a little deeper than a 1/4 but guess you dont have to. I also just use a hand held using a 2x4 after chalking lines
It depends on the thickness of the slab.Thank you
We have this saw and it amazes me how it can cut green cincrete so clean. Our guide arm doesn’t line up in the right spot,
Husqvarna are you hearing this?
Go to puerto rico i see my parents driveway is the same since 1976 when the house was build have crack but my drive here in iowa is not that old and cracks invall over the place in puerto rico there no control joints
I would love to have a talk with you, to compare. I currently am under education as a concrete worker in Denmark, but we never do this. Could it be based on the steel reinforcement differences?
I used to have soft cuts when they first came out.I don't know 87 1/5 of thickness.Teenage slab beautiful crack every every time.Can't wait too long until burn.The blades up and you can't push too hard.Or you'll spaw the edges
SOFFCUT
can u saw cut broom finish the same day, I do the next day on broom finish
Yes you can, IMO it’s typically best to cut as early as possible without damaging the finish/smashing down the broom ridges or leaving tire marks. Having lighter saws like these shown help to get on the slab earlier vs the 12” walk behinds. This can help mitigate unwanted fractures.
We do, gotta wait a couple hours though.
Nice job on this one! Thanks for sharing.
That is a nice saw.
I was hoping you’d make this video. Big fan my brother! Fellow professional here and it’s great to watch and listen to your stuff. It’s really meaningful to us younger guys to gain as much wisdom as possible from experienced people who are committed to doing things properly.
About this video, I’ve never done same day saw cuts but I’m going to try. I usually feel worried that I’ll scuff it up too much. Are there any things that we should NOT do when attempting this? Also. What Method do you use to get the detailed cut against the wall edge? I recently bought a 3” diamond wheel to get a tighter cut with an angle grinder. Also do you ever use the tapered groover blade? Thanks again?
It doesn't scuff the floor after power troweling to a burn finish. Broom finish we wait a couple hours. If you don't burn finish just wait an hour or so before sawing. Not sure what you mean by cutting against the wall. The was cuts to about 2.5" of the wall, you can finish with a hand grinder if you want to, we usually don't. I don't use the tapered groover blade.
On garages ill just feeehand with the chop saw for speed
I just poured a 11 yard pool deck at my own house, we started pouring at 3:30, by 6:30 it had cracked in 3 places and took all we had to get the stamps to show the pattern. Even used retarder to slow it down. It was all in shade and couldnt even get the border grooves in it. Tomorrows going to be a bad day for my ready mix company.
5 yds a stamp pour. Stabilizer is cheap. Sounds like bad mud though.
what was the temperature outside? anytime you are pouring in the afternoon with heat and wind u are asking for Plastic shrinkage cracks.
@@dukhtr3 it was 85, but in the shade. It's bad mud, been pouring with these guys for 30 years and this entire spring has been tough.
I understand your frustration, but I’m pretty sure I know what’s gonna happen. At most, the ready-mix supplier rep will come out and say - “My product doesn’t come finished. I’ll guarantee a specific strength or better, but the finish is on you.” If you’re convinced you got a bad batch, you can tell them you want a non-destructive strength test like a Swiss-hammer or something, but that’s likely all you can do.
Did you to wet the substrate? A dry base can really draw water from the mix. On the other hand, I have seen horrible cracks on pool decks from overflowing the pool and pouring on mud basically. The pool can also have a bond breaker type like newspaper or sand around it. 🤔 let us know more on in this failure analysis
How would you compare saw cutting to grooving the concrete
My house Slab I'm thinking about pouring is 250mm thick with four layers of 10mm mesh 200mm spacing. With lots of reinforcement in the slab is it still necessary to cut control joints?
What are the shoes they are wearing?
Hello. What is the name of this device and how can you buy it? where will buy shoes for concrete?
I answered all those question in the video. Get the shoe-in shoes on Amazon.
what do you guys have on your boots as covers? They look like oversized sandles
I've been cutting with my early entry for a couple years now. The problem I have is the plate on the saw messes up my broom marks on the slab. I am worried about waiting too long to make my cuts after the "green zone" in order to keep this from happening. Also at times I get a fair amount of chipping along the cut. How can I reduce/eliminate both of these problems Mike? Thanks for the videos.
Use a regular saw and cut next morning.
You cant
I take cardboard and put it in the cross cut and it won't blowout the joint
They also have higher quality inserts for. This is necessary 💯 of the time... for me. Attention to detail is 👍
@@CaliVapor definetly will look into that lol always MacGyvered my way through life but it sure would be nice to not have a bunch of torn up boxes in the trailer🤣
You can buy the ones soff cut has, we use cardboard too.
Do you ever use porous concrete??
Can this be done same time while green with a skill saw and concrete blade ?? Thanks mike
Not a regular blade.. I used a skill saw with a 7inch blade but usually cut the next day... I'm getting a blade for soft cut this coming week and put it in my skill saw.. I'll let you know how it goes
Shouldn’t you cut /3 the depth of slab??
Everything I read says to cut it within 24 hours. My concrete guy came back 2 days later, is that OK?
Hey mike do I need a joint for 24x48 shop floor 6-7 inch thick. I read some things say you don't need them indoors. I get pissed when I'm rolling under the pickup and my creeper wheel gets stuck in one
No dust this way.
What color blade do you use
Where do you cut if there are thickenings in the concrete to support walls?
Just cut it normal, footings can/should be poured first to settle and mitigate the potential cracks. In a “mono pour” (footing and slab in same pour) the edge of slab can “fault line crack” if more settling occurs than is tolerated in the footing because compaction wasn’t sufficient... No bueno.
Hi Mike is it too late after 4 days saw cutting a patio thats been poured? Need professional help
Nope you're good. Cut away
Better late than never.
Cut it an inch deep at least.
Cut 25% of the thickness, I wouldn’t use the soff-cut blades because of the hardness already. Some finishes (top cast) and climates can allow ample time before installing contraction joints, it should be fine.
Diamond blades and yeah your good it's just better to saw cut right away makes it easier to cut
How do you complete the cut right up to a wall or floor drain?
Grinder
@@jalisquillogonzalez9675 - That works for a drain if you're very careful, but can't get the last couple inches up to the wall without cutting into it.
I've got a question, on a new slab how soon is normal for cracks? Also I've got 2 exposed rebar wire bearly exposed, this normal?
You shouldn't have cracks or rebar exposed
@@ponenubs1 its the rebar wire tie not the actual rebar. The crack is a hairline if that makes sense
@@LanceSheppard 🧐 Two guarantees with concrete, it will crack, no one will steal it. That said.. look at the; curing agent? climate? days until they appeared? Compaction % on the substrate? Seismic vibrations? Load bearing equipment? Joint placement? Cold joint? Many things to look for in concrete to do a failure analysis for cracks. The tie wire on the other hand, is just the iron workers not smashing down the tails ends, as we pour we usually step on them if they are up, attention to detail helps. They end up making rust spots and look bad and theoretically can rust to the bars eventually (years) and compromise its integrity 😝 hammer-drill them and patch? Hope this helps.
I’m a career concrete guy and on rare occasion I would notice a crack that was alarming enough that I thought I should bring it to the engineers attention. The rule of thumb is, if you can’t slide a credit card into the crack, it’s typically not something to worry about.
Over the years, of the cracks I did call to the engineers attention, I was always surprised at how unconcerned they were when they saw it. Even with cracks that failed the credit card test, they knew that, as long as the internal rebar was not broken, there was no chance of any kind of catastrophic failure. Cracks seem to bother the architect more than the engineer, in my experience.
To your original question: Cracks can show up within a couple hours to years later. The wire sticking up is no concern. If it’s too much of an eyesore, just grind it out and patch it with a dab of Portland cement. But just understand, the patch may end up being an eyesore as well. The old saying in concrete is - A patch is a patch is a patch. 🤷♂️
@@psidvicious my man! Thanks brother. I love everything about concrete wish I knew more. This is the info I needed!
this is one of the most annoying things i hate about working in concrete, i already don't understand the finishing process that well and then having to cut it just makes the day longer, most of my coworkers are clowns that act like immature children and can't work worth a damn, like they still have to rely on the guide arm when using a saw like in the video
Yes, last thinking i want to do after 10 hours of hard labor is hear 3-4 hours of grinding concrete. Like, “Just cut it, its a contraction joint!” Guide arm and accuracy is great for decorative joints or in “tilt-up” construction. When reopening contraction joints after concrete panels are installed, i like to have a straight line and i always use the guide arms to not widen the intended cut. (Important to align/set guide arms before each use)
I don’t use guid arm either it is too inaccurate
Thank you, I agree.
2 inches deep next for a wet saw 2 inches with a soft gut.Saw you're burning up too many blades
Don't use red or black chalk for your chalk lines!
we use white. if u mess up it's the line it's gone the next day. blue works ok buy last a little longer before it disappears
I always use black, one and done. Just don’t screw up. It all washes away anyways
Ever use zip-strip ?
I used miles of it in the 80's before these saws were invented. It works good but still looks like a crack when it works like it's supposed to.
So just like knowing where to saw,zip needing to figure out and what size but I used to use a fair amount and could bull-float it or broom it,had mostly good luck and was done,no caulk,easy to sweep floors etc.I mom
😀
Spider way better I went thru 3 of those husk. That front bar too flimsy n is on that stupid polyurethane clamp wears out on first use
Well bend your guide arm back lol
The reason concrete cracks is because it shrinks as it dries. Cement only takes about 22% of its own weight of water to hydrate. But a 4" slump needs around 45% water and if you add more water on site. And its not 1/4" deep. Its 25% of slab thickness.
It's actually cuts 1'1/4" not a 1/4" 😂
"sawring"
The front guide is useless.
You'd think they could come up with something better?!
saw cutting concrete to stop cracking DOES NOT WORK.