If the drivers door is open it won't lock the doors, but if you put a screwdriver in the mechanism bit and push down to make it think the car door is shut then it will lock with the door open. If not open the window and shut the door. The receiver in the roof mainly plays up if your sunroof is leaking or damp.
The reason it worked while inside is because the drivers door was closed, it wont let you lock the car while the drivers door is open, try opening a window then closing all doors and try again, and as for distance from vehicle for the fob to work, on my Defender (no central locking) but alarm and immobilizer i have to be almost next to the drivers door before it will work, always been like that even with new batteries in the fob.
My Disco 2 won't lock when my electric gate is moving as the gate control puts out an RF signal as an alarm that is the same as the key fob. I have to wait for the gate to stop moving !
I'm not convinced the receiver is the problem. Looking at the circuit diagram in the Haynes manual, the RF receiver is connected to the BCU, as is the dashboard switch for activating the CL. The door lock solenoids are controlled from relays in the under-dash fusebox. Point being, however you attempt to activate the CL, it's always done via the relays in the fusebox. If the dashboard switch can operate the CL, the relays in the fusebox and the locks, themselves, are probably in working order. If the RF receiver is causing the CL to do SOMETHING then it's probably doing it's job. The only thing that explains why the dashboard switch makes the CL work properly while the receiver doesn't is, unfortunately, a problem with the BCU. The BCU has it's own Earth, independant of the Earths for the receiver and the dashboard switch so that might be part of the problem. Honestly, though, if the BCU wasn't properly Earthed, I'd expect you'd be having all sorts of electrical gremlins. One other possibility is that the BCU also gets a CL trigger signal from the switch in the driver's door lock... which is currently non-functional. If the switch is faulty, or physically stuck in one position or the other, it might be constantly sending a signal to the BCU. Again, if that was the case I'd expect the car to be continually trying to lock/unlock the doors but it might be worth unplugging the connector from the door switch, just to see what happens. I use my D2 for camping. Basically, what I've done is remove the rear seats and then replaced them with the 3rd-row jump-seats, which fold flat. I've built drawers roughly 10" high in the rear cargo space. For daily-driving the rear seats are in use and there's still space for shopping on top of the drawers. For weekend camping I fold down the rear seats and fit a flat board over them which attaches to the front of the drawers to create a full-length (1.8m) sleeping platform. For longer trips I can remove the jump-seats completely, fit the sleeping board and there's a heap of storage space underneath it, where the rear seats normally fit. We're definitely "fair weather campers", mind you. If we're travelling, we'll try to get into B&Bs but it's nice to know that, if we can't find anywhere to stay OR if a bottle of wine has been consumed along with the evening BBQ, we can just climb in the back of the Disco and it's not going to be completely hellish.
Thank you for the camping info and well done! Rather you then me. It's Premier Inns for us. This might not be relevant, but when I reconnected the BCU wires, the circuit board the plugs connect to seemed to be loose inside the box. Don't know if thats normal or not. I'm going to experiment later.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 FWIW, on a vaguely related note, I need to pull my driver door to bits (again) to fit a new window motor. I'll have a look at the door handle at the same time and, if I can come up with a way to repair the CL actuator-arm-thing, I'll be happy to repair yours.
@@SiCrewe Just thinking that. If you know somebody with a light engineering business, I'm sure copies could be knocked up made from a decent material. You would not make a fortune but there must be a good market out there!
If the drivers door is open it won't lock the doors, but if you put a screwdriver in the mechanism bit and push down to make it think the car door is shut then it will lock with the door open. If not open the window and shut the door. The receiver in the roof mainly plays up if your sunroof is leaking or damp.
Oh, good info there, never thought of that. I need to make some repairs and get the whole mechanism sorted then go from there. Cheers!
@Sleepy Cat Pictures no problem at all. Let me know the end result 😁. If you need any parts have got plenty 😉. Take care mate
The reason it worked while inside is because the drivers door was closed, it wont let you lock the car while the drivers door is open, try opening a window then closing all doors and try again, and as for distance from vehicle for the fob to work, on my Defender (no central locking) but alarm and immobilizer i have to be almost next to the drivers door before it will work, always been like that even with new batteries in the fob.
Seems I still have a lot to learn! i'm going to have to start mending stuff, then we'll go from there. Old Stinky unlocks from 20 feet away!
My Disco 2 won't lock when my electric gate is moving as the gate control puts out an RF signal as an alarm that is the same as the key fob. I have to wait for the gate to stop moving !
Blimey!
Also, do you have another key to try?
No, unfortunately it only came with one.
Having se same issue.Tried a working RF receiver no change at all.Any advice please?
Try checking the relays in the fusebox under the dash. Or it could be a BCU problem. Check the other comments on this subject too.
I'm not convinced the receiver is the problem.
Looking at the circuit diagram in the Haynes manual, the RF receiver is connected to the BCU, as is the dashboard switch for activating the CL.
The door lock solenoids are controlled from relays in the under-dash fusebox.
Point being, however you attempt to activate the CL, it's always done via the relays in the fusebox.
If the dashboard switch can operate the CL, the relays in the fusebox and the locks, themselves, are probably in working order.
If the RF receiver is causing the CL to do SOMETHING then it's probably doing it's job.
The only thing that explains why the dashboard switch makes the CL work properly while the receiver doesn't is, unfortunately, a problem with the BCU.
The BCU has it's own Earth, independant of the Earths for the receiver and the dashboard switch so that might be part of the problem.
Honestly, though, if the BCU wasn't properly Earthed, I'd expect you'd be having all sorts of electrical gremlins.
One other possibility is that the BCU also gets a CL trigger signal from the switch in the driver's door lock... which is currently non-functional.
If the switch is faulty, or physically stuck in one position or the other, it might be constantly sending a signal to the BCU.
Again, if that was the case I'd expect the car to be continually trying to lock/unlock the doors but it might be worth unplugging the connector from the door switch, just to see what happens.
I use my D2 for camping.
Basically, what I've done is remove the rear seats and then replaced them with the 3rd-row jump-seats, which fold flat.
I've built drawers roughly 10" high in the rear cargo space.
For daily-driving the rear seats are in use and there's still space for shopping on top of the drawers.
For weekend camping I fold down the rear seats and fit a flat board over them which attaches to the front of the drawers to create a full-length (1.8m) sleeping platform.
For longer trips I can remove the jump-seats completely, fit the sleeping board and there's a heap of storage space underneath it, where the rear seats normally fit.
We're definitely "fair weather campers", mind you.
If we're travelling, we'll try to get into B&Bs but it's nice to know that, if we can't find anywhere to stay OR if a bottle of wine has been consumed along with the evening BBQ, we can just climb in the back of the Disco and it's not going to be completely hellish.
Thank you for the camping info and well done! Rather you then me. It's Premier Inns for us. This might not be relevant, but when I reconnected the BCU wires, the circuit board the plugs connect to seemed to be loose inside the box. Don't know if thats normal or not. I'm going to experiment later.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 FWIW, on a vaguely related note, I need to pull my driver door to bits (again) to fit a new window motor.
I'll have a look at the door handle at the same time and, if I can come up with a way to repair the CL actuator-arm-thing, I'll be happy to repair yours.
@@SiCrewe Just thinking that. If you know somebody with a light engineering business, I'm sure copies could be knocked up made from a decent material. You would not make a fortune but there must be a good market out there!