Have you guys ever tried making a car an all wheel drive by attaching a bar to the front wheel and back to the rear wheel? Sort of like a locamotive! Lol
Been feeling down and just jumped into one of these vids for the first time in a while - man this is a breath of fresh air just some silly car stuff and people having clean fun
Those provide way more grip on snow and ice than I would have thought without tread. Even my tires with tread slide on ice without too much problem so this is actually quite impressive.
that could be fun to see how these tyres behave on a dry pavement during summer (obviously without the studs and well balanced) and: pedal to the metal
I would have spaced out some bolts inside the tire to hold the rubber granules instead of welding steel rebar into it. That would be a weight-saving measure. The layer could also be thinner like a run-flat tire would be to save even more weight. I bet that you could have it come close to the weight of a similar run-flat tire, which would improve the acceleration. This added weight from the rebar and size of the tire is what I feel was preventing you from getting the rear wheels to spin more freely. You can also try welding some shapes into your molds to give the tires tread patterns!
The thought behind the bolts is that welding bolts along the inside provides just as much or more surface area for the granules to grab onto as the rebar, providing the same sort of retention that the rebar was meant to give.
The dynamics of a spinning wheel wouldn't find that configuration useful. The crossing over is what helps keep it in place. It would just separate from studs.
I respectfully disagree. The spinning of the wheel didn't separate any of the rubber compound at all, even in the areas between the rebar where there was no support whatsoever. If your theory about spinning dynamics were true, we would have seen delamination to some degree. But I suppose neither of us will know until it's tested, hm?
@@orellh.1836 The smaller the spans between the "bars", the more it will hold itself together, at the expense of more weight of course. Within reason at that lol. At some point, you'll have nothing but steel packed with a little rubber and the strength of the rubber will actually decrease. I don't recall exactly now but what were there, 6 per wheel? 60 deg, carry the 2... 7 or 8 inches between bars at the surface of the tire, give or take. Forgive me, I'm not bothering with real math. Point is, take that and have only 2... 180 degrees apart obviously... and check out the results. To challenge it even making it out of the garage, take them all away. Radial rods would help in imparting torque somewhat, in a manner not very different from the handful of bars... but the simple rods would not provide any real radial stability, and unless there's something special going on at the interface between the "tire" and the rods, the voids in the rubber that the rods pass thru will actually have a detrimental effect instead, by being the cause of "holes" in the composite rubber structure. The constantly changing radial forces as the wheel rotates would only amplify the result as well. Then the moment there's any speed... It really wouldn't be all that long at all before you were running on the ends of the rods because with a material like the aggregate tire there, they will drill themselves thru the circumference in no time flat, and the deformations will shred it, even quicker with any real torque. All of its "action" is limited to the furthest it reaches out into the tire. Remember, the tire material is an aggregate composite much like concrete, only a bit more flexible. It will still break and crumble, unlike a proper molded rubber tire. The crossover mitigates this by "dividing" the forces and shielding parts of the bulk tire from stresses, allowing the bond to remain intact on both the back side of the cross bar and also at the hub of the rim. It also restrains centrifugal forces and controls them by keeping the "free mass" to thinner sections of the tire (above each bar), which translates into lower centrifugal forces acting on the interfaces where the cross bar meets the rubber mixture, improving stability on the outer side of the bars as well. This will be countered some by the forces where the contact patch is, but the weight doesn't propagate thru all of the rubber, just the part between the patch and the bars as they go by. The reinforced and non-reinforced areas work something as a team to spread out and control excessive forces within the structure. The result of all of this combined is a much stronger overall tire. All of this said, I don't think either one is really a real world solution of any kind... but if you want the most longevity, more stability is better, and the crossing bar structure provides just that. Might be useful for a supercharged "power wheels" or something. 🤣🤷♂️
Glad to see this idea brought to life! I commented about this concept in the previous video, but I'm sure I wasn't the only one. I'd like to see these tires tested again in the summer!
Insert a tread mold ring made from from a real tire into the barrels around the inside edge then fill it in with the rubber compound so the tread is molded into the outer surface of the tire. So get a good tire spray it with alcohol and vegetable oil as a mold release then paint on several layers of silicon rubber. Peel that off re-apply your mold release, pack it full of you rubber pellet and glue compound then insert that into your barrel mold and fill in the area between the rim and your tread mold with compound when dry remove from the barrels and peel off your tread mold. Or you can use a router to cut treads into your tire after they dry.
I have so much respect for you people standing that harsh climbatein these northern continental areas. I already have issues with the climbate of southern Germany. The winter, and from your perspective it isn't even a real winter (due to the gulfsteam's influence barely more then a few degrees centigrade minus), is waaay too long and it is too dark for me.
You should also make the grooves on the surface, and not just a smooth tire. The grooves are important when you drive over a wet surface (not ice), and you did not test the wheels under these conditions.
These are just essentially forklift tires for your car. And the reason you have solid tires on a forklift is to balance the load on the forks. But if there's any deviations or imperfections in the surface The transfer is exponential to the forks. But you can't have any kind of compromise to the tires because that would be dangerous on a forklift.
i like them and i kind of want a set. i think with a more precision production set up it could even be possible to give them some tread and better balance. it's a bit funny actually because i believe that the rubber comes from recycled tires, so this might be the only way to recycle old tires into new tires.
The Rubber Turf (crumb) idea has been used for many years to patch potholes in the paved roads. Usually you get rubber crumb and mix it with Polyurethane glue, and pack it into a pothole filled with water. The water helps the Polyurethane glue to cure more rapidly of course. Widening the bottom of the hole slightly, helps to keep the patch in the hole. But the end result is the pot holes will usually outlast the surrounding paved road. It makes you wonder why they continue to use bitumen and hot mix gravel to patch holes in the pavement? Certainly Bitumen and gravel is a cheaper material cost in the short term, but the Labor cost to repeatedly repair potholes is extremely expensive. Then of course there are road safety issues to consider, along with damage to vehicles steering & suspension, stone chips to paint & glass, and maybe even loss of life.
What sucks is they think patching potholes work when 100% it does not. Pot holes keep getting worse because the water seeps under the hole. To fix it the right way you cut out 10 feet section of the road. Dig it up about 2 or more feet deep and tamp the hole section quite a lot. Then lay in crushed gravel and sand level and tamp then apply your black top on it. The major problem is water intrusion and the city, county, state and federal government were to install the proper roads and maintain them the right way we would never have a problem.
@@kameljoe21 - It's a good thing that Polyurethane adhesives use water to cure. In fact when patching a hole, if it is dry, then the first requirement is to fill the hole with water before placing the Rubber Crumb & Adhesive mix into the hole. Once cured, Polyurethane glue is hydrophobic.
@@delawarecopWhile that is very true. The patch might last yet the connection to the patch is what causes the pot hole to form again. The gaps and cracks causes structure failure to the patch which break up and form the pot hole again. The problem is micro cracks in asphalt. As the asphalt ages and dries out it shrinks. All of this is going on while the weight of vehicles traveling over apply downward pressure to close these micro cracks. This can be seen on some roads where you can see tire tracks and when it rains water pools where the tires go. Micro cracks open up and allow water under the road and can either wash out dirt which causes "sink holes" or in our case pot holes. During the winter in places where it does freeze and thaw the water intrusion freezes and heaves the asphalt up to where it breaks. This can break open a pot hole that has once been sealed or cause cracks along the road. You will see crews who go out and try and seal these large cracks up with tar. The problem is this almost does nothing to help because micro cracks still allow water in. The only way to combat this is to apply chip seal every year or every few years. Each road can be inspected to determin when it should be applied again. Which is how its pretty much done today. Yet they wait till its too late. The longer you wait the more damage is done to the roads. There are several chip seal programs that have been able to provide low cost chip seal cost while making it cost effective. Yet the problem is getting your local area to do it and to keep doing it even if one does not think you need it. Every road that has not been done in a year or a few needs it. Cost is the factor in this. Pot holes will keep showing up in the same spot until they fix the problem. Pot holes do not form in new roads. Keep the roads freshly chip sealed and you will never have another problem.
@Garage54ENG #Garage_54 This was a great example of "Just Do It" engineering. It obviously works; kind of heavy, but will never get a blow out. These would be fantastic "Shuffle Wheels" for cars that need to be moved around, but don't warrant a new set of tires. A Next-Stage Idea for this Build: Off Road Version for the Log Truck 👍 +++ Это был отличный пример инженерного подхода «Просто сделай это». Очевидно, это работает; довольно тяжелый, но никогда не выйдет из строя. Это были бы фантастические «Shuffle Wheels» для автомобилей, которые необходимо передвигать, но которые не требуют установки нового комплекта шин. Идея следующего этапа этой сборки: внедорожная версия лесовоза. 👍
looks like rubber molding and cutting of tires, like in tractors and monster trucks. try flexible cast mold plastic tires. looks nice. maybe foamy airless tires. with hollow inside. no air inner tires.
Just out of curiosity , what is the ratio of tire granules to polyethylene glue? I bet this stuff would make great run flats for e-bicycles. Is it the same ratio as the car dip you made ?
you've got to do this again in the summer time.
I wish they will...
I was thinking about this too
Yep, I want to see a proper burnout with these. 😂
Imagine this on a track they must have hella grip
In mother russia there is no summer time, only less cold winter😂
Cool , need to re test them in the summer on dry blacktop/ concrete see how they perform 👍🏻
I’d love to see a high speed test to see if they stay together
They will melt in the heat. But the winter application this is cool. 😂
They would most likely be very grippy but wear out incredibly fast.
Have you guys ever tried making a car an all wheel drive by attaching a bar to the front wheel and back to the rear wheel? Sort of like a locamotive! Lol
@@kirbyloulewis3826 you wouldn’t be able to turn
That's the nicest set of 167/58R13 Ive ever seen
especially because i’ve never seen a 167 into first place..
Those held up SIGNIFICANTLY better than I was expecting. I would've thought the adhesive wouldn't have been enough to hold the tire together
I am 107% pleasantly surprised!
i thought it would blow apart once it hit over 60
That is joke about the Czech president who has IQ only 107.
Been feeling down and just jumped into one of these vids for the first time in a while - man this is a breath of fresh air just some silly car stuff and people having clean fun
Yeah these guys give me so much life
Could fill regular tires with that mix and have a super-durable flat-proof tire, tho the ride would be a bit macho. Might be good for back roads, tho.
i was thinking exactly the same!!!
Trust me the grip is terrible. You’ll understeer to death
And you would flat spot them quite easily in case your wheels lock.
@@2seep Not really a highway tire, yeah. But on dirt roads? Might be interesting to try.
I agree that they should stuff the granules into standard tyres. Drive on Tarmac - see what happens.
I think the footage shot by the drone was FANTASTIC !!!
First time I've ever seen a car used as a Spirograph. :D
@@Reziac Indeed !!!!
Those provide way more grip on snow and ice than I would have thought without tread. Even my tires with tread slide on ice without too much problem so this is actually quite impressive.
Nice! Worked good.
Love the tire writing!
Looking pretty good. Now form them on the lathe, bond some retreads on, and balance them and test them this summer.
that could be fun to see how these tyres behave on a dry pavement during summer (obviously without the studs and well balanced) and: pedal to the metal
aw hot summer pavement they will blow apart probably.
or rim would separate from the crumb and do a burn out inside of the tire,
@@homelessEh I am thinking I need to make 2 of these for temporary winter tires. You can add and remove tapcons for studs as needed lol.
@@homelessEhrims can't spin inside the rubber. They welded rebars in there
Which was frankly a great idea to prevent exactly that
12:18 "So lets see how these behave in regular city driving conditions" Also Vlad at 12:33. Never change!!!
Try it out in the summer please
I would have spaced out some bolts inside the tire to hold the rubber granules instead of welding steel rebar into it. That would be a weight-saving measure. The layer could also be thinner like a run-flat tire would be to save even more weight. I bet that you could have it come close to the weight of a similar run-flat tire, which would improve the acceleration. This added weight from the rebar and size of the tire is what I feel was preventing you from getting the rear wheels to spin more freely.
You can also try welding some shapes into your molds to give the tires tread patterns!
The thought behind the bolts is that welding bolts along the inside provides just as much or more surface area for the granules to grab onto as the rebar, providing the same sort of retention that the rebar was meant to give.
The dynamics of a spinning wheel wouldn't find that configuration useful. The crossing over is what helps keep it in place. It would just separate from studs.
I respectfully disagree. The spinning of the wheel didn't separate any of the rubber compound at all, even in the areas between the rebar where there was no support whatsoever. If your theory about spinning dynamics were true, we would have seen delamination to some degree. But I suppose neither of us will know until it's tested, hm?
Well to be fair too the Lada is not exactly a powerful car either. It was a cheap functional car with a small engine.
@@orellh.1836 The smaller the spans between the "bars", the more it will hold itself together, at the expense of more weight of course. Within reason at that lol. At some point, you'll have nothing but steel packed with a little rubber and the strength of the rubber will actually decrease.
I don't recall exactly now but what were there, 6 per wheel? 60 deg, carry the 2... 7 or 8 inches between bars at the surface of the tire, give or take. Forgive me, I'm not bothering with real math.
Point is, take that and have only 2... 180 degrees apart obviously... and check out the results.
To challenge it even making it out of the garage, take them all away.
Radial rods would help in imparting torque somewhat, in a manner not very different from the handful of bars... but the simple rods would not provide any real radial stability, and unless there's something special going on at the interface between the "tire" and the rods, the voids in the rubber that the rods pass thru will actually have a detrimental effect instead, by being the cause of "holes" in the composite rubber structure. The constantly changing radial forces as the wheel rotates would only amplify the result as well. Then the moment there's any speed... It really wouldn't be all that long at all before you were running on the ends of the rods because with a material like the aggregate tire there, they will drill themselves thru the circumference in no time flat, and the deformations will shred it, even quicker with any real torque. All of its "action" is limited to the furthest it reaches out into the tire. Remember, the tire material is an aggregate composite much like concrete, only a bit more flexible. It will still break and crumble, unlike a proper molded rubber tire.
The crossover mitigates this by "dividing" the forces and shielding parts of the bulk tire from stresses, allowing the bond to remain intact on both the back side of the cross bar and also at the hub of the rim. It also restrains centrifugal forces and controls them by keeping the "free mass" to thinner sections of the tire (above each bar), which translates into lower centrifugal forces acting on the interfaces where the cross bar meets the rubber mixture, improving stability on the outer side of the bars as well. This will be countered some by the forces where the contact patch is, but the weight doesn't propagate thru all of the rubber, just the part between the patch and the bars as they go by. The reinforced and non-reinforced areas work something as a team to spread out and control excessive forces within the structure.
The result of all of this combined is a much stronger overall tire.
All of this said, I don't think either one is really a real world solution of any kind... but if you want the most longevity, more stability is better, and the crossing bar structure provides just that. Might be useful for a supercharged "power wheels" or something. 🤣🤷♂️
Glad to see this idea brought to life! I commented about this concept in the previous video, but I'm sure I wasn't the only one.
I'd like to see these tires tested again in the summer!
I love this channel. You guys have the best ideas.
I'd like to see them on tarmac.
Racing slicks....
Racing slicks for a forklift
One of the best executed experiments ever! Good job guys!
Impressive! It would be nice to add a rubber track layer to those tires, and test them in the sand... Greetings from Ottawa.
Insert a tread mold ring made from from a real tire into the barrels around the inside edge then fill it in with the rubber compound so the tread is molded into the outer surface of the tire. So get a good tire spray it with alcohol and vegetable oil as a mold release then paint on several layers of silicon rubber. Peel that off re-apply your mold release, pack it full of you rubber pellet and glue compound then insert that into your barrel mold and fill in the area between the rim and your tread mold with compound when dry remove from the barrels and peel off your tread mold. Or you can use a router to cut treads into your tire after they dry.
Try it as replacement low profile tyres! Use a set of 17 Inch and do it this summer! Love this channel!
I want to see you make upset of those that you use during the summer when it's hot out
I swear you come up with everything I have thought of but haven't done. Time to start doing!
Try a burn-out in the summer. You might get a different result.🚗
Great stuff. More testing!
That worked so much better than I thought it would! Very fun episode!!
this is my favorite type of channel- crazy creativity NOT crazy destruction of valuable things
Great demonstration!
Wow, nice method to recycle old tires. Especially in vehicles such as construction equipment and trucks. And easy and perfect for military vehicles
Great project. The music overall is really great. I love the Rock + electronic.
I love these crazy SOB's
Id love to see you guys do this with a tread design, really put the concept to the test for better traction
Now fill regular tires with this product.
That was very awesome. You guys are so clever. Love this channel. 👍
Should make some of these again in the summer, and maybe try cutting a tread pattern to improve performance in wet weather.
This lada wagon is looking really nice.
I have so much respect for you people standing that harsh climbatein these northern continental areas. I already have issues with the climbate of southern Germany. The winter, and from your perspective it isn't even a real winter (due to the gulfsteam's influence barely more then a few degrees centigrade minus), is waaay too long and it is too dark for me.
This was awesome. You’re the coolest. Retest in the summer.
Wow, that's completely amazing, I wonder if I can try this on my mobility scooter.
Theyd make amazing burnout tires XD they would never pop
I expect they wear out quickly in summer. Regular tires are surprisingly well reinforced
You should also make the grooves on the surface, and not just a smooth tire. The grooves are important when you drive over a wet surface (not ice), and you did not test the wheels under these conditions.
Next time, fill in a bunch of tiny air bags for lighter wheels ... even if they deflate, the air bag formation will remain.
You guys are so AWESOME!! I'm a big fan. Love you Russian Brethren. Love from the US👍
These are just essentially forklift tires for your car. And the reason you have solid tires on a forklift is to balance the load on the forks. But if there's any deviations or imperfections in the surface The transfer is exponential to the forks. But you can't have any kind of compromise to the tires because that would be dangerous on a forklift.
My remote control car uses foam tires lol. They look exactly like those tires you made.
That Lada wagon is wonderful. You guys should restore it, it’s early and fairly clean?
Stay warm and safe my friends. Great video.
I'm sure the boys on drift channel are paying attention and have some ideas for their summer fun with these :D Plenty of "rubber" to drift with :D
my day just got 107% better !
Vlad! Make some treads on them
I wonder how well these wheels would do as drift wheels. Just chuck a pair on the rear and you should have plenty of rubber to burn XD
I think that's a thing just with other materials
@@-aid4084 i only know of these coloured drift wheels that make coloured smoke 😂
Cool project guys. One of your most practical experiments. Ya'll should've spun and trued up the outer diameter.👍
You could make the tire much smaller, like a super low profile tire to minimize weight.
i like them and i kind of want a set. i think with a more precision production set up it could even be possible to give them some tread and better balance. it's a bit funny actually because i believe that the rubber comes from recycled tires, so this might be the only way to recycle old tires into new tires.
Respect for filming on that shitty weather.
The camera you use is probably the best quality ive ever seen
"feeling a bit of vibration" as his voice is vibrating too 😂
2:00 the good thing is that they're light weight,any 12 cylinder can run those tires😅
I love this video, would of loved to see yall balance them and profile those tires a bit. rounder edges would help with durability
we want a burnout till failure lol great job that worked very well.... maybe add it to the braking distance test you guys did last year
These guys are modern-day engineering mad scientists.
You’re always doing such awesome ideas.
Try this with tread and/or in summer please! Warmer means softer ride and more grip!
I have been thinking about this since I was a kid!
These guys would do wonders making innovations for a Formula 1 car
erm ... i don't know... maybe formula drift not formula 1 xD... formula 1 cars are kinda similar to a car but not exactly the same...
@@MsTatakai erm nerd emoji
@@luukvanoijen7082 i meant this "
(´･_･) erm.... "
true
They already put two steer, axles 4 front tires. It was banned tho bc it worked too well. They weren't garage 54 back then tho
That is awesome! It would be intresting to se how they hold up on dry tarmac :)
Just some advice. While smelting rubber, one might consider wearing a respirator. Isn't good to breathe the fumes.
The Rubber Turf (crumb) idea has been used for many years to patch potholes in the paved roads.
Usually you get rubber crumb and mix it with Polyurethane glue, and pack it into a pothole filled with water.
The water helps the Polyurethane glue to cure more rapidly of course.
Widening the bottom of the hole slightly, helps to keep the patch in the hole.
But the end result is the pot holes will usually outlast the surrounding paved road.
It makes you wonder why they continue to use bitumen and hot mix gravel to patch holes in the pavement?
Certainly Bitumen and gravel is a cheaper material cost in the short term, but the Labor cost to repeatedly repair potholes is extremely expensive.
Then of course there are road safety issues to consider, along with damage to vehicles steering & suspension, stone chips to paint & glass, and maybe even loss of life.
What sucks is they think patching potholes work when 100% it does not. Pot holes keep getting worse because the water seeps under the hole. To fix it the right way you cut out 10 feet section of the road. Dig it up about 2 or more feet deep and tamp the hole section quite a lot. Then lay in crushed gravel and sand level and tamp then apply your black top on it.
The major problem is water intrusion and the city, county, state and federal government were to install the proper roads and maintain them the right way we would never have a problem.
@@kameljoe21 - It's a good thing that Polyurethane adhesives use water to cure. In fact when patching a hole, if it is dry, then the first requirement is to fill the hole with water before placing the Rubber Crumb & Adhesive mix into the hole. Once cured, Polyurethane glue is hydrophobic.
@@delawarecopWhile that is very true. The patch might last yet the connection to the patch is what causes the pot hole to form again. The gaps and cracks causes structure failure to the patch which break up and form the pot hole again.
The problem is micro cracks in asphalt. As the asphalt ages and dries out it shrinks. All of this is going on while the weight of vehicles traveling over apply downward pressure to close these micro cracks. This can be seen on some roads where you can see tire tracks and when it rains water pools where the tires go. Micro cracks open up and allow water under the road and can either wash out dirt which causes "sink holes" or in our case pot holes. During the winter in places where it does freeze and thaw the water intrusion freezes and heaves the asphalt up to where it breaks. This can break open a pot hole that has once been sealed or cause cracks along the road. You will see crews who go out and try and seal these large cracks up with tar. The problem is this almost does nothing to help because micro cracks still allow water in.
The only way to combat this is to apply chip seal every year or every few years. Each road can be inspected to determin when it should be applied again. Which is how its pretty much done today. Yet they wait till its too late. The longer you wait the more damage is done to the roads. There are several chip seal programs that have been able to provide low cost chip seal cost while making it cost effective. Yet the problem is getting your local area to do it and to keep doing it even if one does not think you need it. Every road that has not been done in a year or a few needs it.
Cost is the factor in this.
Pot holes will keep showing up in the same spot until they fix the problem. Pot holes do not form in new roads. Keep the roads freshly chip sealed and you will never have another problem.
Water can indeed seep in from below, as well@@delawarecop
Certainly alot you could do with this, maybe fiber reinforcement, add some kind of void space to see if any spring can be gained
Now that was very impressive!👏👏👏👏👌😎👍I thought they were going to fall apart!
@Garage54ENG #Garage_54
This was a great example of "Just Do It" engineering. It obviously works; kind of heavy, but will never get a blow out.
These would be fantastic "Shuffle Wheels" for cars that need to be moved around, but don't warrant a new set of tires.
A Next-Stage Idea for this Build: Off Road Version for the Log Truck 👍
+++
Это был отличный пример инженерного подхода «Просто сделай это». Очевидно, это работает; довольно тяжелый, но никогда не выйдет из строя.
Это были бы фантастические «Shuffle Wheels» для автомобилей, которые необходимо передвигать, но которые не требуют установки нового комплекта шин.
Идея следующего этапа этой сборки: внедорожная версия лесовоза. 👍
Can you imagine someone stopping him and asking ' where can i by these? ' 😂😂😂
Tose would be great to test on asphalt when no snow.
I'm surprised that it works. But then most of what you all do does just that now as others said test them in the summer ☀️ too. Keep it up 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
Great content 😃, looks like the tyres are good.
I think you should put some treads in the tyres, balance them and test them out.
Give a Lada crazy suspension travel like a Cross Kart to get through deep snow and take jumps
Please test this again in the summer
We in the UK call this stuff soft play as it’s used in kids playgrounds
Love the scales😂
Awesome job! Would be cool to see how they react to dry pavement when it is warmer outside
looks like rubber molding and cutting of tires, like in tractors and monster trucks. try flexible cast mold plastic tires. looks nice. maybe foamy airless tires. with hollow inside. no air inner tires.
Burnout tries should make a good smoke show
In summer the tires would shear while cornering. But in a pinch in the apocalypse? They'd be better than nothing 😂
fantastic testing
can't wait to see how they perform on dry, even in summer heat :D
By Joe I think you guys made the perfect winter tire . lol :)
Your tire mixture looks suspiciously like fresh asphalt
If this guy got send it to battle he would just cover the tank with a meter of this stickymagic
reminds me of putting racing slicks on cars in horizon 5.
I want that wagon.
Just out of curiosity , what is the ratio of tire granules to polyethylene glue? I bet this stuff would make great run flats for e-bicycles. Is it the same ratio as the car dip you made ?
You guys should made a video of restoring that thing!
Cool testing! Try foam like RC car racing foams. Unbelievable light weight, great traction, can spin hyper speed. I believe awesome in snow too
Making those tires as retreads would have been a better idea.
Turf covered car looks epic!
could you convert a pushrod ohv head lada to individual head per cylinder like the komatsu 6d125?
Snow keeps them cool.