The Different Types of Overcoats
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- In this new edition of Sartorial Talks, Hugo focuses on the different types of classic style overcoats. He explains their origins, the styles, the fabrics and all you need to know to thoroughly choose your next overcoat. And never forget that a good overcoat will be your best friend in life!
00:00 : Introduction
02:29 : The Classic Overcoat
05:32 : The Polo Coat
08:30: The Ulster Coat
12:36 : The Chesterfield Coat
15:30 : The Pea Coat
18:44 : The other styles (Trench, Loden, Duffle, Body Coat)
To support the show and have access to additional content please visit: patreon.com/sartorialtalks - Навчання та стиль
Hugo, your jacket in this video is majestic. Very Christmassy and cozy, yet very elegant.
Thanks Krunoslav, it's a bespoke jacket in Harris Tweed by Pino Peluso in Napoli. Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Neapolitan Tweed. A true product of bespoke :)
@@SARTORIALTALKS so one cant buy that online. I like this Orange tweed
I like the elegance you carry around with savor of classic menswear. But the sense of humour (coat is bulletproof, nobody is gonna put you in jail etc) adds a flair and charm to it.
I really appreciate this channel as I'm about 1 year into my sartorial journey. I didn't know what they were called, but I've always liked body coats. Next year I'm definitely going to add to my collection.
A body coat is quite an advanced piece of garment dear Eli. If you are a beginner, may I advise you to make sure you already cover the basics. But of course if you like the Body Coat, go for it! Cheers, Hugo
Another wonderful episode, Hugo! Your collection is stunning. Especially your Chesterfield which I personally find to be quite remarkable!
Many thanks Joe. Hugo
All you have to do is listen and watch this gentleman and surely your sartorial experience will be elevated 🙏 Such phenomenal people
I'm in love with the first one, the cut and the color are perfect... Simplicity is often a good choice for elegance.
Much appreciated, Damien ! Hugo
My sincere thanks Hugo! I have two overcoats that were my grandfather's, probably from the 1960s. Thanks to you, I now know more about them! The first a cashmere coat almost identical to your first coat, but a more golden-harvest color. I rarely wear it, I treasure it too much! The second is a Harris tweed that I at first thought was an Ulster of some sort, but in that brief photo you later discussed, I realize it's a classic Raglan! It was known as my "skin" when I wore it in NYC in the early 90s, my days studying music. Like a tweed Ulster, it'll outlast me!!
What a beautiful story Robert! We all have things we cherish from our late parents or grand parents. I have all my father's pens and also the pocket watch of my grand father. Best wishes, Hugo
I love Over Coats especially different colors to match up with different outfits you are Awesome thank you so much.
You are very welcome Derrick! Hugo
I LOVE this channel! I just discovered you, Hugo. I think you're great! And the information you impart is wonderful! Thanks!
Thanks for your kind words, Hugo
Great video so always Hugo, a good overview of different coats,all of them beautiful. I have a greatcoat from Walker Slater, a dark Burgundy in almost 800g wool..Its stunning and my favourite overcoat.Keep up the good work.
Thank you Tomaz. All the best! Hugo
great knowledge, i am not from sartorial backgrounds but architectural and everything this man said about material, shilouettes and effects is perfectly right!
Quite informative, and as always, well done. Thank you, Hugo.
Many thanks! Happy Holidays, Hugo
Such a brilliant presenter, so engaging and educational
Beautiful!!
Mr. Hugo I'm learning my style along the way.
Thank You.
You're very welcome my friend. Hugo
Superb video - for me. I enjoy the history being explained and origins of the design, along with fabrics etc. This is why I support you and this channnel Mr. Hugo and Sonia. With all the talk of climate, sustainability and so on, the fashion industry has alot to answer for. Therefore the emphasis on quality, style that lasts through the ages with design and material to match, is true sustainability and respect to the environement. Let us turn our backs on throw away fashion and turn to quality, style and class promoting artisans who create the best that lasts. I know many of us cannot afford that but slowly we can. 1 fantastic suit is worth 10 poor ones, we just need to change our mind set. A very happy Christmas to you both.
Thank you Antonio for your support and all you say is true. Happy Holidays to you too, Hugo & Sonya
The Chesterfield Coat is very beautifu! I have the same coat without the velvet color and mine is from the store Zara :) I wear this coat together with a black turtleneck and a Irish cup. Cheers! Thank you for this video.
Cheers Davide ! Take care, Hugo
I just bought my first peacoat. Absolutely adore it. It’s a fun jacket to wear. Easy to dress up and down. All the best!
Thanks Jacob. I love my pea-coat too. Extremely comfortable and versatile. Cheers, Hugo
After watching this video, I am thinking of a peacoat myself. It seems like the it would work as next stage on the ladder of sober-coloured hiker's fleece (purely functional) -> waxed cotton (smart casual) -> something more formal and elegant.
@@joelbenford9327 You'll never regret being a pea coat dear Joel. Cheers, Hugo
Another wonderful Sartorial Talks presentation, Hugo! All of your overcoats are beautifully made. I appreciate your saying of: "look at this marvel!" Have ever considered a trademark/wordmark for it? All the best to you and Sonya this holiday season. 🍾🥂🎉
Thank you dear Ralph! Much love to you and JS. Hugo & Sonya
I live in Scotland so an overcoat is essential. I have three .A leather Milan leather one .A long black Cashmere one and my favourite is the Harris Tweed one my father had until he passed..
Love your channel Hugo .
Have a wonderful Christmas and New year you and your lovely wife .God Bless from Glasgow..
You too dear David, Blessings to you and your family. Hugo & Sonya
It was interesting that you associated the loden coat with the upper class. For me from Hungary it has a working class feel. The loden coat (lódenkabát) was extensively used after WWII. There were very few goods to buy, and it seem this type of overcoat was produced a lot, so nearly everyone got one. I think just because of the connotation with that period (and also with the failed revolution against the Soviets in 1956) it fell out of fashion afterwards.
Dear Ádám, that's very interesting. For us, in the 1980s, the Loden was the coat of the conservative people (the "Bourgeois" from the 16th arrondissement of Paris). They often wore it with a pair of Paraboot (the Michaël). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Cheers, Hugo. Maybe because by then it had an association of "old glory", as it sure can't have been very "en vogue" by then, no? Being from Germany, I can attest to loden having more of an utalitarian, if not downright rural working class and "folksy" connotation here as well. It's tradtionally been the clothing of woodsmen, hunters, game wardens and such and was often to be spotted in the "Heimatfilme" of the 50s and early 60s. Of course, nowadays, a true loden coat is only for the connoisseur willing to lay down the money for one. I'm lucky enough to have been given one of his own by my father, and despite living in the city, I wear it with pride and dignity every season.
In Austria the lodencoat is associated with "Trachtenmode". Thats traditional dress like Lederhosen.
Can one still buy loden fabric from Hungary? It's so expensive these days.
Dear Hugo, great video as ever. I have found some history on the Ulster coat over the years if you’re interested.
It was invented in Belfast by a gentleman called John McGee and this is the description you sometimes see.. “it was a close fitting, front buttoned three quarter length overcoat made of hardwearing frieze material. The coat could be single or double breasted, contained numerous pockets and could come with a short cape. The Ulster is characterised by contrasting stitching, cuffs and a long pleat at the back.”
I know there’s confusion in French over Ulster but it’s the province in Ireland and Northern Ireland is situated inside it.
Very useful, many thanks Steven! Hugo
I forgot to mention the other two coats that are very popular, again from the UK: the Mac and the wax jacket (or the Barbour). Maybe very similar to the trench coat is terms of how they’re made and application (and also usually RTW and not tailored).
Beautiful collection, I think my first Bespoke coat will be a chesterfield!
Also showing the stitching under the lapel, was great. For those of us further in our sartorial journey may know that hallmark, many new comers may not Cheers 🥂
A Chesterfield is a coat for life. Cheers my friend, Hugo
A great opportunity for reviewing this topic in advance, during the current warm days here in Chile. Greetings from the south Hugo and Sonya!
Good evening Lorenzo, we know a little bit Chile with Sonya. We spent a full month in Santiago a few years ago. All the best, Hugo
Hello from America! I adore your channel, have been watching for years. Keep up your great work Mr. Jacomet. Much love.
Many thanks! Much love from Bourgogne France. Hugo & Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Omg I am thrilled to hear from you! I have learned so much from watching your channel and just wanted to give my enormous appreciation. Thank you once more.
@@organicarc6324 Very welcome.
Overcoats are truly addictive, and those are fantastic pieces!! Nowadays I see little difference from a ulster coat to a polo coat, to me it boils down to the iconic ulster collar. Your green Ulster Coat is just gorgeous, by the way!
You're right Eduardo, the main visual difference is the collar (straight or slightly bending down). Best, Hugo
Sir, I personally don’t use this kind of clothing... but it is always amazing to see an expert in this field. Besides, you and your lady look amazing. God bless you both. Have a great Christmas and a happy new year.
Many thanks Esteban for your kind words. Happy Christmas and blessings, Hugo & Sonya
Personally I would have loved to have seen the greatcoat mentioned here, it’s such an excellent coat to wear especially during deep winter or very late fall
I have a dark grey pea coat, it's my first coat and have received a lot of compliments about it
Isn't tailored but fits perfectly, the best choice could ever make
The pea coat has a great and historical aesthetic, bravo ! Hugo
Brilliant overview, as always, Hugo! Your preference for cashmere really put my wallet to shame ;) No envy, just appreciation. I might have added a sentence or two on the Covert Coat, which is my light coat of choice whenever the weather is "somewhere in between". Cheers!
Yes, I'm quite addicted to cashmere 😱. Thanks for your precision of the Covert coat (another appellation). All the best, Hugo
What a beautiful coat collection Hugo! I've owned a few overcoats in my lifetime, but splurged on a bespoke Ulster about three years ago in taupe Escorial wool. Since I presently live in Hong Kong I've yet to wear it outside, but I'm moving back to New York next month so I expect to put it to good use then. Speaking of trench coats, I have a classic A-cut olive gabardine Burberry's made by Sanyo Shokai when they still were a Japan licensee. Like all things Japanese, this trench is made better than the original. I feel like Alain Delon in Le Samourai when I pair it with a Fedora :-)
Japanese crafters are almost always superior, whatever they do. Have a wonderful Holiday season my friend, Hugo
@SARTORIAL TALKS I do agree that Japanese crafters are fantastic quality. Though the French, Italian and British have distinct characters- that makes it unique from the Japanese.
I got a harris tweed overcoat from walker slater a little while ago. Will be tempted by an ulster coat in the future for something even warmer!
WS is always an excellent choice Alex. Best, Hugo
I absolutely adore my overcoat. It's a trench coat design but in wool and has a rich burgundy colour. Although I wish I could pull off a bright red one like yours Hugo I think the burgundy looks amazing and pairs great with a navy suit ;)
Burgundy is a fantastically versatile colour for sure. Best, Hugo
Would love to see a picture of your overcoat.
@@jayantriser9165 happy to send you one but I wouldn't have a clue how
@@tvdd9514 instagram? Share the url to an image here, etc?
Thank you for your verry informative video.
Irecently bought a vintage loden coat from lodenFrey München. It is green with brown window pains and a verry subtle prince of Wales pattern. It is very thick and heavy, so perfect for a harsh winter. The best thing however is that it only cost me 10€! Perfect for a student like me.
The catch of the year for €10! Cheers, Hugo
I love the first one and the Chesterfield overcoat, it is because I love frock coats and both of them looked mostly like it when you wore it.
I love all of them but the Chesterfield is a very special coat. Cheers, Hugo
Ok here’s the video I was looking for! Excellent video
Thank you very much! Hugo
Thank you for this discussion on video. Growing up in USA Midwest, I have had a variety of coats over the years. A camel hair polo coat is my favorite style, especially considering it's origins in polo players. Your pea coat in a camel color is very interesting to me. We usually see them in navy blue so yours is very nice to see in an updated color and elegant fabric. We cannot do without a good trench coat and I have two of them by Burberry; single breasted and double breasted.
Dear William, I find reflective comments as yours both useful and enlightening---with benefits similar to what one may find in a forum. Thanks for taking the time. Hugo
Hello many thanks for this episode and what a beautiful peluso jacket.
Thank you very much sir. Hugo
Once again Hugo, Sonya, fantastic content. I really do love an overcoat, from the age of 15 I have owned an overcoat in some guise. Single breasted, starting from a peacoat, now around knee length, what I call my drivers coat.
I am looking for a double breasted greatcoat at the moment, but I am now considering an ulster coat. I love the labels.
Keep up the great work, can't wait for the next episode.
Thank you dear Alexander and belated congratulations for your wedding. Best, Hugo & Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you very much. It has been a long time coming but we got there in these crazy times.
Excellent video. Thank you :)
Bravo. Very informative podcast, comme d' habitude. I would like to add that the duffle coat is also known as a "Montgomery". It literally took his name after the famous british field marshal of WWII, (called also "Monty"), who made it popular, by wearing it, during the very cold winter of 1944-45, when the allies were fighting, pushing forward,towards Germany, in France, Belgium & the Netherlands.
I wish to all of you, Happy New year! Bonne nouvelle Année 2022!🇫🇷 🇨🇦 🇬🇷🍾🍾🎆 🎇 ✨
Many thanks for this valuable piece of historical information! Cheers, Hugo
Cher Hugo, c'est la première vidéo de vous en anglais que je regarde. Lorsque l'on connaît vos inflexions de voix en français, c'est un régal de retrouver leurs équivalents dans la langue de Shakespeare !
Haha merci Stéphane ! Mon anglais n'est pas parfait mais grâce à Sonya je m'améliore de jour en jour. Amicalement, Hugo
Excellent video, although I must say I differ in that I have grown to prefer the balmacaan / raglan overcoat. There is something about being able to wear a long coat with the collar up that really gives you some presence when wearing the coat.
I've seen magnifient Raglan coats (especially the ones worn with a little cape above, the MacFarlane). All my best, Hugo
Hugo, you're back! Stay blessed, everyone!
And polish your shoes!
Indeed ! Yours, Hugo
My understanding is that in the 18th and early 19th centuries, an overcoat was the general term, while a greatcoat was a specific type of overcoat with a small cape feature (sometimes 2-5 layers of capes) at the shoulder. I think it also had a high turned-down collar or could be worn closed, to protect from the elements - but I don't know if that was part of what made it a greatcoat or if that was just in the normal range of coat collars.
Confession: I really only know any of this because Ebenezer Scrooge wore a gorgeous blue greatcoat in the Muppet's Christmas Carol in the scene where he breaks up with Belle, and I swear I spent my *'entire adolescence* trying to figure out what that *gorgeous* coat was - for a long time without remembering where I'd seen it. One of those deep formative experiences of falling in love with menswear.
That's an absolutely charming (and funny) story about Ebenezer's blue coat! All my best, Hugo
Excellent video!!!!!! Cheers!!!!!!!
Many thanks. Cheers Kenneth! Hugo
Perfect timing, I’m just shopping for an overcoat now
Dear Jack, I hope it will be useful to you. Best, Hugo
That Green & the Oprah coats🏆are 2 of my favorite in this episode.
I have questions Hugo, but you keep answering them before I can write them down. Thank you.
Well, let's hope it will continue dear Wayne! Best, Hugo
Awesome video, great fan of the channel! By the way, would it be possible to make a video on the different trousers rises (a.i. low/medium/high)? There are few videos on this topic. Many thanks and best wishes, Tom.
That's a good idea Tom. Cheers, Hugo
This was a wonderful video presentation of classic men’s coats.
I wonder if you have any commentary on the Barbour waxed coat?
I think that a well fitted bodycoat is arguably the most flattering garment a man can wear. It is much like a suit but with added drama and swish that comes with a long skirt.
I completely agree with you about the "drama" of a body coat. Wonderful garment. Not easy to wear in all occasions, but absolutely jaw-dropping. Cheers, Hugo
I had my dad's overcoat re-tailored into a Paletot coat; it now has a perfect blend of slim fit, classy lines, and quality cashmere that I can dress up or down. Shame it's summer here in Australia and 35 degrees 🙂
Always fascinated by the beauty of overcoats. But it's really hard to wear them in tropical weather. Trench coat or balmacaan coat in cotton is the most useful coat to me.
Thanks Xiang! Have a wonderful weekend! Hugo
Love you guys!!!
God bless!!!
Thank you my friend, Peace, Hugo & Sonya
Today I went and got a cashmere coat in camel and a trench coat in olive. The cashmere coat goes to my knees and the trench coat drapes to 6 or 8 inches above the ankles. I have been looking for one since working the parking lot at church in the rain a few weeks ago. I live in Florida so I will only use the cashmere coat twice a year but I'll look good. The trench coat is a must in rainy Florida.The umbrella wasn't enough to keep the rain off and the pants of my suit got drenched. I would like to get a new umbrella maybe that's a video that can be done as well. A video for a number of rainy day accessories you shouldn't go without would be great.
Your red coat is one of my favorite jack Hugo 😃
I love it too Paul! Hugo
Ah, I love loden. As a Brit, I feel a little traitorous not going with tweed, but loden is something special. I don't have a traditional loden overcoat, but I do have a field coat (in this case, like a traditional shooting cost but without the bellow pockets) in the traditional dark green (together with a pair of breeks too).
I know a lot of people who love Loden. I can understand that because the traditional dark green is, for many, a seal of quality and comfort. Cheers, Hugo
Really cool and informational video, definitely helps knowing the different types of coats.. maybe you can make a video of the best budget or best value coats. I found one, maybe you can include it in your video. The brand is called Palto.
Thanks for the recommendation of Palto & for the nice suggestion. Hugo
That is a great collection of overcoats. I actually am in the look for an everyday all situation coat. Also I am thinking of modifying a couple bespoke overcoats of my father.
But the real steal of the show for me is that sports coat you are wearing! What is it? The cut of the pockets is so interesting and the detail in the back! And the shoulder... Is it French, am I guessing right? Truly a gorgeous piece.
Best wishes from Greece for the holydays.
Hey Dimitrios, this is a bespoke jacket in Harris Tweed crafted by Neapolitan tailor Pino Peluso. All my best, Hugo
I agree, that jacket is stunning. I love the piping on the pockets.
@@36424567254 It's indeed a bespoke masterpiece by a great tailor. best, Hugo
Thanks for this video. What would you recommend in terms of features, to make a coat as warm as possible? I am in Canada and like to walk , even when wearing a coat. This includes warmth and protection from wind.
unfortunately i dont have a use for an overcoat, because it rarely gets cold enough where i live, but for future reference it is always good to know what to look for :)
Well on one hand we could say you're a lucky man Daniel, because you don't have to deal with the cold days, but on the other hand you're unlucky not to be able to appreciate the experience of wearing a beautiful overcoat. All my best, Hugo
Wonderful episode Hugo. Which maker’s blazer are you wearing? It’s absolutely gorgeous!
Dear Daniel, it's a bespoke sport jacket in Harris Tweed by Master Tailor Pino Peluso in Napoli. Cheers, Hugo
Love the Chesterfield, always a sucker for any Herringbone type of design. What is the little diamond and square on the back of your jacket, just a little bit of fun design play?
Dear Gavin, the little leather inserts are just for fun and style. Cheers, Hugo
Man, I love that orange jacket!
Thank you Jason. It's a bespoke jacket in Harris Tweed by Pino Peluso in Napoli. Cheers, Hugo
Those coats are all beautiful, I actually thought they were all from the late 1940s at first. I don't really suit cream and tan but I love the grey-green Ulster one
love it thnak you
You look good, as usual. That is a beautiful jacket. M.
Thank you my friend, Hugo
Hi Hugo, i like the jacket you are wearing in this video. Like the cut, colour, the pocket shape and details and at the back. Tell us about it?
Dear friend, this jacket is a bespoke sports jacket designed and crafted by Maestro Pino Peluso in Naples Italy. The fabric is from Harris Tweed Hebrides. Cheers, Hugo
you have to be the most stylish man on youtube Hugo! what fabric is you sport coat made of?
Dear Harry, it's an overstatement my friend, but thank you.It's Harris Tweed. Cheers, Hugo
Hey Hugo, please talk more about waistcoats!!
We already talked a lot about waistcoats on this channel Simon, especially Sonya. But maybe we should dedicate a full episode to them. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I've watched all of your videos, literally all of them. I just can't wait for a full episode about waistcoats & I'm pretty sure a lot of people are waiting for it too! Thank you for replying & God bless you guys! 🙏🏽
The peacoat is my favorite and the one that I own.
A very nice and unique aesthetic, indeed. Hugo
Tyrol is not in Germany and Austria, but in Austria and Italy. In Milan too a loden coat has the same bourgeois allure you mentioned, but you can still see many of them being worn.
Yes Ottavio, my mistake, it is of course Austrian and Italian (not German). Knowing Milano quite well, I can confirm you can see there a lot of older gentlemen wearing their Loden. All my best, Hugo
Hello Hugo. I am french and used to your other Chanel "discussion sartorial", but in order for this commentary to be useful for the community I'll express myself in English. So, am a huge fan of coats but still haven't got into tailored coats, and I have a question. Is it possible to ask for a fur revers on your coat ? (Un revers de manteau en fourrure) I think it is one of the most exquise and raffinate thing to have on your coat and keep you warm. I have been looking for a good coat with a fur on it but never found one with a good quality.
Truly yours
A great fan
Dear friend, of course you can ask for that, but it's more and more rare to find a tailor who is able to provide this. Bespoke tailors will probably be able to do this, but my advice is to look into specialised second hand shops (who sell coats from another era). Cheers, Hugo
Does the pea coat fall into the Over Coat category ? Just curious
That's a good question Chris, as a Pea Coat is mainly worn without a jacket under. Cheers, Hugo
I want the Chesterfield body and herringbone cloth, with the Ulster collar, and the ability to fold up and button the collar like the Pea Coat. If I sneak into Hugo's home and steal all three coats, do you think I can get an alterations tailor to cut them up and put them together?
😂😂 that's the weirdest idea I've heard here Joel. My best wishes to you and your family, Hugo
Hello Hugo, I would love to see a video on capes and cloaks.
Dear Fernando, it's not planned for the moment but why not in the future. Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for your consideration Hugo!
You've made it painfully obvious that I've no style yet. Thank you, it's time to level up.
Never too late Leonard! Good luck and cheers, Hugo
I own the same Belvest coat that you do too! Mine is in dark acquamarine petrol though. What colour is the lining on the red version? Mine has this interesting orange colored lining ... The only "downside" is the lack of inside pockets in my opinion though!
Good afternoon Dennis, mine is unlined. Cheers, Hugo
I was waiting for leather overcoat.
Not in this episode my friend. Hugo
Superbe vidéo et super manteaux que vous avez !
Vers qui je pourrais me tourner pour un body coat plus accessible que Michael Brown ?
Cheers ,
Bonnes fêtes à vous , Hugo et Sonia !
Bonjour Aaron, malheureusement je ne connais pas de fabricant de prêt-à-porter qui proposent ce genre de manteau près du corps. Peut-être jetez un oeil à Walker Slater car ils ont une gamme très large et très accessible. Amicalement, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS merci Hugo . Toujours aussi admirable et gentleman dans votre travail et comportement . Bonne continuation et merci pour votre contribution .
Hello, I hope this isn't a silly question but to properly maintain an overcoat should we unbutton it when sitting in a car/bus/train or is this something trivial that wouldn't really do anything to the coat?
Bonjour Monsieur Jacomet. Où pourrait-on se renseigner sur ces "règles de l'étiquette" que vous avez mentionnées lorsque vous avez parlé du manteau Chesterfield. Je serais heureux de les étudier.
Je me demandais également quelles sont les caractéristiques d'un manteau Raglan. Je vous souhaite une semaine splendide !
***I haven't commented for awhile as I've been so busy creating a company. So to make up for my absence, I say Merci, Merci, Merci, Merci!***
De rien , de rien ! ~Hugo
Mr. Hugo, I am more interested in the blazer/jacket you are wearing then the over coats behind you, is it bespoke or ready made?
This is a bespoke jacket by Pino Peluso in Napoli Italy. Cheers, Hugo
Very beautiful coats - would be great if you had told us the fabric weight! Most are perhaps around 500 gram Cashmere? Or are they even heavier?
I saw a guy the other day with an coat that looked like a sort of long-ish dressing gown with a belt that you tie at the front. It was made from a fleecy/wooly material. What would you call that type of overcoat?
Not sure I visualise what you are talking about, sorry for that. Hugo
You left out the covert coat. I have two gorgeous vintage trench coats in navy and khaki back from when there were still reputable domestic brands here. Looks very iconic if a little costumey with a fedora but I personally like it. I'm excited to wear them but it's still too cold for that. I have a white tie event coming in August. What kind of overcoats are appropriate to wear with formal wear?
Dear Harja, I would say any black overcoat should work as long as it's longer than your tail coat of course. Cheers, Hugo
The coats you have on display are absoloutely beautiful and are at their zenith in terms of craftsmanship. I just find that in the UK it doesn't seem to get cold often during winter and so if I had a winter coat I don't think i'd wear it that often.
I thought winter was colder in the UK Daniel, but maybe i'm wrong. More rainy I suppose. Hugo
I'm surprised in regards to your comments on Chesterfields being properly for evenings - when they became a thing they definitely started out being worn during the day, and I'm aware of historical Chesterfields lacking the velvet collar (although it is certainly a beautiful addition).
As for the raglan most people I know call it a Balmacaan, typically in tweed.
Good morning Aaron. Here is what we can find on the subject on Wikipedia: "The Chesterfield is a formal dark knee-length overcoat with a velvet collar introduced around the 1840s in the United Kingdom, with prominence attributed to its namesake George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield, then a leader of British fashion.The Chesterfield coat, with its heavy waist suppression using a waist seam, gradually replaced the over-frock coat during the second half of the 19th century as a choice for a formal overcoat, and survived as a coat of choice over the progression from frock coat everyday wear to the introduction of the lounge suit, but remained principally associated with formal morning dress and white tie. A less formal derivation is the similar but lighter fabric, slightly shorter top coat called covert coat.". Best regards, Hugo
Hi hugo, I saw a picture of you and Mr Marinella in this video. I wanted to know if you had any experience with Marinella's ties, and what do you think of them as well.
Dear Enrico, Maurizio is a good man and his ties are iconic. Cheers, Hugo
Hello Hugo, do you know where I can buy a good quality Loden coat which is not too expensive? In the same price range of Boggi, Piniparma or Spier&Mackay. Thank you! I’m from Italy, so maybe you can give me some recommendations. Thank you!
Maybe take a look at Walker Slater in Edinburgh. Cheers, Hugo
Beautiful coats😊. Are the “rules” for pea coats the same for car coats?
I believe so John. Except you can wear it without a jacket under and you can keep it while driving. All my best, Hugo
Dear Hugo,
I was wondering if you could shed some light on what the ideal length of a peacoat should be in relation to a man's body ( whether it should be just above the hip level or just below it or any other relevant things that a first time buyer may overlook ) I seem to be having trouble in deciding what should be the best fit for a peacoat so would very much appreciate your sartorial expertise in this matter.
Thanks in advance and much love to Sonya.
Regards,
A friend.
Dear friend, I believe just under the hip is about right. Cheers, Hugo
Lovely sports jacket Hugo! Might I ask who made it and what mill does the fabric come from? Thanks in advance and thanks for the upload. it’s always a better day when I get a notification from your channel. Cheers.
Good evening, this bespoke jacket has been crafted by master tailor Pino Peluso (Sartoria Peluso) in Napoli. The fabric is Harris Tweed. Best, Hugo
Hugo, What is that jacket that you are wearing now? I like the back detail.
Dear Scott, it's a bespoke sport jacket in Harris Tweed by Pino Peluso in Napoli. Great tailor, great jacket. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, do you know where can I get a leather overcoat (trenchcoat or greatcoat...so many way to call it)?
Dear friend, I would say in every good leather garments company. Cheers, Hugo
If you could only have one coat to wear with everything, what coat style, what fabric and what details would you choose?
I would choose the first one I speak about in this video (the Cifonelli overcoat in Cashmere) or the Red Ulster coat by Belvest (in thick wool). Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, is 5'8 height short too for overcoat?
The piping on the pockets is way too brave for me, but i think it's brilliant.
I also like to share the Dutch slang for duffel coat. We call it a "houtje-touwtje-jas" because of the buttoning with elongated button ('houtje', or 'small piece of wood') and the loop on the other side ('touwtje, or 'small piece of rope').
Thanks Piet. Dutch is a very detailed and descriptive language. My daughter lives in Hilversum and she's teaching Dutch to French kids. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks Piet 😉
Wearing a big overcoat can really be an upperbody workout. Do you think there will come a day where you are unable to wear some of your overcoats? (maybe when you are 80-90 years old)
😂 I never thought about it but you may be right 😂😅! Cheers, Hugo