Hey, Tim...thanks for sharing this great tip...just a suggestion...since the emblem is small, try cutting some of the unused eraser back at an angle...then apply the Molotow chrome to the emblem...removing the unused portion of the eraser will give you better visibility and additional control...also, just tap the eraser to the emblem...don't let the pencil linger on the emblem...that's why the Molotov is flooding other portions of the emblem...if you miss some portions of the emblem, just tap it again...hope this helps...my very best to you...keep building and don't ever give up...attitude is everything and remember, someone always has it worse! You are doing well, sir
Thanks so much Jeff! I appreciate the comment and support. I have picked up some smaller eraser which I will use on my next try. Applying the chrome directly to the emblem is problematic with my tremor, so probably not an option. But I can always give it a go and see what happens, right? :D
I've tried this method before I saw your video. I had about the same results as you did. I reverted back to dry brushing my emblems. Seems that that's the best method for me. Thanks for passing along your results.
Great tip. Im normally a military builder, but occasioally I like to do a car or truck. This is great for someone like me that wants to have fun, but wants it to look good. I don't have the time or interest to perfect car modeling so this is perfect for me.
That's cool! Back in the day, long before these "chrome pens", in my teenage years putting models together, I remember the small chrome model paint cans, which when sprayed on a surface of anykind, was nothing but I highly wannuh be shiney silver color! Anyways, I can remeber brushing this chrome paint on the sticky back side of a piece of masking tape & then lightly pressing that area down on top of any raised areas like the letters, badges, trim rings on the gauges of the gauge cluster dash panel . . . . things of that nature! It wasn't the greatest, but it worked anyways! Even with just the Testers small bottle silver brush paint worked with that method! Even worked okay with painted tire lettering if needed to be! Thanks for sharing your video!👍🏻
It was okay, like I said! Wasn't the greatest but worked! Still had to do a little touch up with the fine paint brushes here & there as needed! Just don't get the paint in the masking tape thick . . .ya gottuh spread it kinduh thin! Happy modeling😃👍🏻
Your videos help me. Thanks for putting them up. I also have limitations. Much worse than yours. I build to the best of my ability. All I tell people is I'm getting better. And it relaxes me to build these cars. I don't care if no one likes them. I don't build 4 them. Lol. With all I have going ppl are surprised I can do what I do. I strive to improve. I wish my paint jobs turned out as good as yours do! The details make the model. I get flustered and have to take many breaks. My mind knows what to do but my body doesn't comply. I really struggle with this. But in time I've learned my limits though. Those are what I try and improve with each kit. Sometimes it works but most the time it doesn't. I've learned to say oh well and move on. The struggle is real. Thanks again man!
I can't tell you how much your comment means to me. This hobby relaxes me as well. There are some days where the tremor might be worse than other so I either do something else at the bench that is not impacted by it, or I just go off and do something else entirely. I try to improve with every build as well...might not happen all of the time and I might end up making a bit of a mess, but I am cool with that. Mainly because I build for me and for my wife (who is super supportive). Thanks for commenting on my painting. Believe me...that is one area where I can certainly improve! But even there I try to get better. Going to give airbrushing another try soon, so that should be ... "interesting" Thanks again for commenting and sharing a bit of your story. I hope to hear from you again!
Excellent, thanks for sharing. I prefer the ridiculous, but effective, method of whittling a toothpick tip to a blade-shape, then taking paint from the cap. It takes longer but with some practice, the results are worth it.
Hello little friend. 🤣 Nice tip, I am going to try this on badges and on raised Indy car tires! Thanks again, Tim. I agree with you on build for you and just have fun. 👍✌😃
This is a good tip👍🏻. With a little practice it will get even better. If the clear coat was Acrylic it would be possible to clean-up with mineral spirits and re-do until perfection. One thing I thought about was painting a lacquer bright silver on the logos, paint the green (If it's enamel) and once the green dry to the touch removing the green paint with mineral spirits and the sharpen tip of a stick from a cotton swab, from the top of the logo, revealing the silver (as mineral spirits doesn't do anything to lacquer), apply the clear coat. I never tried but I do that with dashboards' dials when they are molded (white lacquer/black enamel rubbing the top of numbers and detail, revealing the white (+ orange or red extra thin sharpie for dial arms) I find that it looks better than the decals. I add a layer of Micro kristal klear for the glass. Good continuation👋🏻
Great tip. I've thought of this but never tried it. Your paint matches the factory Mopar enamel they used back then perfectly. Just the right amount of gloss and orange peel. I'm subbed.
I appreciate it! A couple of other people have mentioned trying on raised white letter tires. Let me know how you go trying it out. I would recommend getting smaller erasers. :D
This just reminded me of those SSP “Smash Up Derby” cars. Man, those were Super Fun!!! I’m the kid that used to cut off army men heads, melt dolls, build detailed models and then stick an M-80 in them. Awesome tip btw. 👍 Also, don’t know how many airplanes I had hanging from my bedroom ceiling but it was a war zone up there at times.
So many airplanes hanging from the ceiling in my past. And my brother built some beautiful planes back in the day. I remember the "Smash Up Derby" cars (and the commercial!). They had that "T handle" that you pulled and then the pieces all flew off when they hit something (or each other). Thanks for the comment and the great memories!
@ huh, I hate the new reply update on UA-cam, just figured it out. Yea, SSP T handle stuff was the goods back in the day and I still build models. Some of us just never grew up I suppose. Still have slot cars and RC too lol. 🙌
Nice job Tim, it turned out great! I was able to do my 64' GTO lettering with that method. It works well. I have also used BMF before primer and paint I was able to get the little Mustang letters in the hood of my 641/2 convertible. I was very pleased with the way that turned out as well. 😎👍
Thanks Will! Yes indeed...I am pretty sure I used one of my mechanical pencil erasers before. I have some more on order now to get back to a smaller sized "stamp". Have a great week!
Nice tip. I use a small piece of BMF over the emblems, burnished down real good before I paint . After paint, I use a tightly wound Q-tip with a little lacquer thinner on it and just go over the raised parts. The lacquer will not hurt the BMF in any way if you use light pressure. I do this for molded in door handles, side marker lights and so on. Try doing it on a test piece first to see if it's something that works for you.
Thanks Tommy. I have seen that tip for BMF, but I fear that with my tremor I would mess it up. But I might go ahead and get some and try on a mule. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@timcarson8146 I feel you're frustrated. i also have tremors. I found this is the best result's because I can't cut straight lines anymore. I also do this around the windows trim with very good results.
@Yves95128 just trim as close as you can and burnish the foil again to make sure no edges are sticking up. The paint will cover the foil with no problem. Try a test subject first to see if you like this method. 👌
Great video Tim! Loved the bug eyed look in the beginning lol. We are all looking for little tricks and tips to try to make our next build a little bit better, and this is one that's certainly worth a try! And congratulations on these numbers, WOW!!
I think this is brilliant... Great idea. I can see what might have gone wrong, though, with the bonnet. You had the rubber overloaded with the chrome paint. Maybe dab it on a tissue after loading it so it removes the bulk of it just like the dry brushing technique. I am definitely trying this. I have work that needs this for a 64 Impala. Thank you.
Thanks for checking it out. I think you are spot on! The eraser that I used was too big (I got smaller ones delivered today) and I did notice that the chrome was way too heavy on the eraser. I think this will work really well on that Impala...let me know how you go!
Cool idea! I haven't thought of this! Subscribed .. I find that Molotow chrome is water soluble, and cleanup with water or acrylic thinner is pretty easy - as long as you don't let it dry first. I also find that I have ZERO luck with the pen - the nib crusts up in no time. I wind using a superfine brush that I have trimmed half the bristles from and actually dip the brush into the end by the nib like a paint jar, and doing something like this I dry-brush it lightly. I don't know if you can do this; I'm blessed not to have any tremors and have no experience with what's possible and what's not.
Thanks for the comment and the sub. Surfed over and subbed ya back. I want to check out your videos on the Tyrone Malone truck. :D Thanks for the tip (no pun intended) on Molotow. I might try to give it a touch with some acrylic thinner anyway to see if I can clean it up. I got my new, smaller erasers today so I might be getting ready to do an update to the video. Thanks again, and welcome to the channel!
Great job Tim... I have tried that and it does work on tall script, shallow not so much.. 😥 My issue is my eyes, mostly blind in the left one and 1/2 of the right eye still works which makes everything interesting... 😁 Hay, it is what it is and I just do the best I can and i'm ok with it... Still having a blast! LLAP 🖖
Nice idea. This video just showed up in my recommendations. Maybe apply less Molotow chrome on the eraser and just lightly dab it onto the raised detail? That might provide a drybrush approach. I'll give this a shot sometime. Thanks for the tip.
This is a great idea. I think I’ve heard Justin from Jhart mention it before. I think it’s a great way to control the process a little more than trying to freehand stuff with a pen or brush. By the way, I also love the color. Lovely.
That's exctly how I do mine. Using the Molotow pens enables you to wipe off any mistakes using acohol as long as your paint can handle the alcohol. To remove any small over applications try using a toothpick soaked in alcohol. Or they make very small touchup brushes/swabs you can get from Amazon to do the same thing.
Looks like a pretty good method for chroming the emblems. Maybe it would help to put some thin masking tape, or even bare metal foil around the emblem to avoid getting any chrome on the paint around the badge. I have found that the chrome pen paint is very easy to remove with white spirits if you make a mess of it. A toothpick dipped in white spirits is pretty good for cleaning up edges where it has spilled over onto the paint.
Thanks David! I am going to see if I can go back at this late date and do some cleanup. Otherwise I am going to be ready for the next time (including a smaller eraser and less chrome on it).
@timcarson8146 I've got a Jaguar XJ-S that I want to fix the badge on the rear. I wasn't happy with the job I did on it, so I'm going to try this method or something similar.
I use the dry brush technique. My hands shake bad sometimes due to pain. I add the chrome to my brush and then slowly go over the raised areas. The process is slow because I need to wait until each layer dries completely before applying the next layer.
Got Molotow - but not one pencil (with erasure) in the house... Going to have to raid office supplies and try this one out. Might try with just a smear of chrome on the rubber, though ;) Nice job on the Swinger by the way.
that worked out pretty good I had good results cutting and sanding a round toothpick I will try your method also THANKYOU what about cutting - shaping - the eraser
Thanks Don! Good luck with it...let me know how you go. I have ordered some small mechanical drawing pencil erasers. Cutting and shaping the eraser is a great idea. I might give that a try as well.
To prevent running of the paint into the low areas, it seems that you would need only a filmt of paint on the eraser. I'm going to try this technique on my 1956 Chevy Delray model in the near future.
Thanks Steve. Yeah...pretty sure I was a bit "heavy" on the chrome. Next one will be a smaller eraser and less chrome. Let me know how you go when you do it! Thanks again for commenting.
neat idea, i wonder if you tapped a piece of paper before you touch the body to sort of flatten out the paint before application if that would fix the uneveness
Hmmm...that might work. Almost like a dry brush? I know the chrome certainly was too thick on the eraser. Will give that a shot the next time. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thank you Valdemar. I appreciate it. The paint is Dupli-Color "Deep Jewel Green Metallic". Whilst not the Mopar color I was hoping to pick up it was close enough. :D (I sprayed over it with Dupli-Color 1K Clear)
Where the real problem is, and the only way to do badges and hood crests is if there was photo-etch aftermarket name badges. For the Japanese 1/24 car modellers there's everything you can image but for American kit builders there's a whole lot of bugger all!
I have a tip that may or may not work for you is before paint put bmf over the emblems and trim around the emblem then when the paint cure buff the tops of the emblems til the chrome shows through
Thanks for the comment! The fine detail work with BMF is a bit beyond my capabilities with the tremors, so I will probably have to stick with this. But I do love that idea!
Great tip. I’m bookmarking for future reference. If I may be so bold, I have a suggestion based on a couple of observations while watching your video. First, I’m not a young guy and wear bifocals, and second, my observations are based on watching your video on a 70” 4K TV. So, I could be interpreting what I see the wrong way. Feel free to take my observations and suggestion with a large grain of salt. First observation. The tip of the pencil eraser appears to be slightly concave. While this could be a trick of lighting, as an artist of many decades this concave appearance is something that does happen to pencil erasers over time as the rubber dries, shrinks, and gets darker in color. I’ve owned enough of them, long enough, to know. Second observation. When applying the chrome pigment to the eraser it appeared to puddle and be thicker in three very minute spots… which would lead to an uneven application. Suggestion: flatten the tip of the eraser. I think this would keep the chrome pen pigment from puddling and make application more even.
Hey there. Thanks for watching and commenting. The pencil was a brand new one just out of the package, and I did check the surface of the eraser to make sure it was as flat as possible. But still a nice catch! I totally agree with you about the "puddling". That is the perfect term. I noticed it when I was trying the stamping and it was even more apparent when watching back prior to posting. My next try will be with smaller erasers (from mechanical pencils) and I think I might use a different chrome pen that does not push out so much liquid. Thanks again for watching and commenting. I appreciate it and of course I appreciate any and all suggestions!
@@timcarson8146 Thanks for the reply and kind words. Wish I had thought of using the eraser from a mechanical pencil. I've certainly used enough of them, too. The rubber in them is a different composition. In my experience, they've always been flatter on the tip... and much better at erasing. Keep us appraised how they work.
Still in 2024 cant get separate badges included in kits ☹️😩 9 times out of ten i shave all emblems as its not worth trying, by the time you get to clear that emblem is less n less prominent
Thanks for the suggestion. My spraying rarely ends up being "light", but I might give it a try. Best of luck with that first build. First few can be tough but just keep plugging away and have fun!
Hey, Tim...thanks for sharing this great tip...just a suggestion...since the emblem is small, try cutting some of the unused eraser back at an angle...then apply the Molotow chrome to the emblem...removing the unused portion of the eraser will give you better visibility and additional control...also, just tap the eraser to the emblem...don't let the pencil linger on the emblem...that's why the Molotov is flooding other portions of the emblem...if you miss some portions of the emblem, just tap it again...hope this helps...my very best to you...keep building and don't ever give up...attitude is everything and remember, someone always has it worse! You are doing well, sir
Thanks so much Jeff! I appreciate the comment and support. I have picked up some smaller eraser which I will use on my next try. Applying the chrome directly to the emblem is problematic with my tremor, so probably not an option. But I can always give it a go and see what happens, right? :D
Very good tips, thank you!
I've tried this method before I saw your video. I had about the same results as you did. I reverted back to dry brushing my emblems. Seems that that's the best method for me. Thanks for passing along your results.
Thanks for commenting! I might try that dry brushing...you're the second person to mention that technique (so far).
Great tip. Im normally a military builder, but occasioally I like to do a car or truck. This is great for someone like me that wants to have fun, but wants it to look good. I don't have the time or interest to perfect car modeling so this is perfect for me.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Joshua. It's all about having fun!
That's cool! Back in the day, long before these "chrome pens", in my teenage years putting models together, I remember the small chrome model paint cans, which when sprayed on a surface of anykind, was nothing but I highly wannuh be shiney silver color! Anyways, I can remeber brushing this chrome paint on the sticky back side of a piece of masking tape & then lightly pressing that area down on top of any raised areas like the letters, badges, trim rings on the gauges of the gauge cluster dash panel . . . . things of that nature! It wasn't the greatest, but it worked anyways! Even with just the Testers small bottle silver brush paint worked with that method! Even worked okay with painted tire lettering if needed to be! Thanks for sharing your video!👍🏻
Thanks! The masking tape trick sounds interesting.
It was okay, like I said! Wasn't the greatest but worked! Still had to do a little touch up with the fine paint brushes here & there as needed! Just don't get the paint in the masking tape thick . . .ya gottuh spread it kinduh thin! Happy modeling😃👍🏻
Great tip. Saw this once before and never tried it. Then I forgot about it. Thanks for doing this tip and reminding me to try it.
Thanks for checking it out Chris. Hope you have success with it. (I do suggest a smaller eraser though...that is what I am going to try next time)
@timcarson8146
Yes perfect idea.
Your videos help me. Thanks for putting them up. I also have limitations. Much worse than yours. I build to the best of my ability. All I tell people is I'm getting better. And it relaxes me to build these cars. I don't care if no one likes them. I don't build 4 them. Lol. With all I have going ppl are surprised I can do what I do. I strive to improve. I wish my paint jobs turned out as good as yours do! The details make the model. I get flustered and have to take many breaks. My mind knows what to do but my body doesn't comply. I really struggle with this. But in time I've learned my limits though. Those are what I try and improve with each kit. Sometimes it works but most the time it doesn't. I've learned to say oh well and move on. The struggle is real. Thanks again man!
I can't tell you how much your comment means to me. This hobby relaxes me as well. There are some days where the tremor might be worse than other so I either do something else at the bench that is not impacted by it, or I just go off and do something else entirely.
I try to improve with every build as well...might not happen all of the time and I might end up making a bit of a mess, but I am cool with that. Mainly because I build for me and for my wife (who is super supportive).
Thanks for commenting on my painting. Believe me...that is one area where I can certainly improve! But even there I try to get better. Going to give airbrushing another try soon, so that should be ... "interesting"
Thanks again for commenting and sharing a bit of your story. I hope to hear from you again!
Excellent, thanks for sharing. I prefer the ridiculous, but effective, method of whittling a toothpick tip to a blade-shape, then taking paint from the cap. It takes longer but with some practice, the results are worth it.
Thanks for the tip (no pun intended). :) Not sure it would work for me with the tremor, but it's worth a shot.
I think it's a great tip and something to try out. I appreciate you sharing it with us and the car is looking great! Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Glad you liked it and I appreciate the comment.
Great tip. Might try different shaped erasers. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks! Yeah, I have smaller erasers (for mechanical pencils) that I am going to try next time - plus less chrome on it.
Very nice tip. I have seen this tip is a magazine a couple of years ago. Something I need to try. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for checking it out Michael!
Nice build. Great info. I'll have to try it. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Tony. Let me know how you go. I do recommend smaller erasers - I got mine in the mail today and have to give them a try.
Thanks for sharing the tip. I never thought of this and seams to work quite well. I will try it in a 1963 chevy impala I'm building right now.
Thanks for checking it out. Let me know how it works for you. (I would suggest a smaller eraser...that is what I am going to do next time)
Hello little friend. 🤣 Nice tip, I am going to try this on badges and on raised Indy car tires! Thanks again, Tim. I agree with you on build for you and just have fun. 👍✌😃
Thanks Mark! I am suggesting to folks that they try smaller erasers if possible. I rec'd mine and am going to do an update soon...I hope. :D
This is a good tip👍🏻. With a little practice it will get even better. If the clear coat was Acrylic it would be possible to clean-up with mineral spirits and re-do until perfection. One thing I thought about was painting a lacquer bright silver on the logos, paint the green (If it's enamel) and once the green dry to the touch removing the green paint with mineral spirits and the sharpen tip of a stick from a cotton swab, from the top of the logo, revealing the silver (as mineral spirits doesn't do anything to lacquer), apply the clear coat. I never tried but I do that with dashboards' dials when they are molded (white lacquer/black enamel rubbing the top of numbers and detail, revealing the white (+ orange or red extra thin sharpie for dial arms) I find that it looks better than the decals. I add a layer of Micro kristal klear for the glass. Good continuation👋🏻
Thanks for the idea! I am definitely going to tweak things the next time, including a smaller eraser for the "stamp". Good stuff here!
Nice tip. As an old man with the shakes this will be very helpful to me.
Thanks Rick. Hope it helps for sure. Please let me know how you go with it.
Great tip. I've thought of this but never tried it.
Your paint matches the factory Mopar enamel they used back then perfectly. Just the right amount of gloss and orange peel.
I'm subbed.
Thanks for commenting and for subbing Frank. I appreciate it. Getting smaller erasers for my next effort. We shall see how that goes.
Great idea as we all can use new tools. That green paint is beautiful.
Thanks Paul. Appreciate it!!
Glad I found this clip. Gonna give it a try on my current project. I believe you can use the same technique on raised white letter tires. Cheers!
I appreciate it! A couple of other people have mentioned trying on raised white letter tires.
Let me know how you go trying it out. I would recommend getting smaller erasers. :D
Great tip and might I say your paint finish is awesome.
Thanks! Appreciate both comments! :D
This just reminded me of those SSP “Smash Up Derby” cars. Man, those were Super Fun!!!
I’m the kid that used to cut off army men heads, melt dolls, build detailed models and then stick an M-80 in them.
Awesome tip btw. 👍 Also, don’t know how many airplanes I had hanging from my bedroom ceiling but it was a war zone up there at times.
So many airplanes hanging from the ceiling in my past. And my brother built some beautiful planes back in the day.
I remember the "Smash Up Derby" cars (and the commercial!). They had that "T handle" that you pulled and then the pieces all flew off when they hit something (or each other).
Thanks for the comment and the great memories!
@ huh, I hate the new reply update on UA-cam, just figured it out.
Yea, SSP T handle stuff was the goods back in the day and I still build models.
Some of us just never grew up I suppose. Still have slot cars and RC too lol. 🙌
Awesome tip Tim,can't wait to try it out!!!Mike
Thanks Michael! Let me know how you go with it.
Great tip, Tim. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for checking it out! Next go is going to be with a smaller eraser and (hopefully) less chrome on the tip. :)
Nice job Tim, it turned out great! I was able to do my 64' GTO lettering with that method. It works well. I have also used BMF before primer and paint I was able to get the little Mustang letters in the hood of my 641/2 convertible. I was very pleased with the way that turned out as well. 😎👍
Thanks Mike! Yeah, I think BMF is above my skill level, although this method still needs some tweaking. Thanks for checking it out!
very good tip!!! as you said, modeling is for our pleasure! I have this kit on the stash, very beautiful car! regards from Brazil!
Thanks for checking it out and taking the time to comment! This is certainly going together nicely.
Awesome idea! I love the emblems on my cars so Thanks 👍🏾 also that's a great paint job as well!
Thanks for checking it out and the compliment!
Really cool tip! I've used a mechanical pencil eraser before. I like that cause it's smaller. Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks Will! Yes indeed...I am pretty sure I used one of my mechanical pencil erasers before. I have some more on order now to get back to a smaller sized "stamp". Have a great week!
Looks great Tim, I will be trying that out. Thanks
Thanks Terry. Looking forward to hearing how you do.
Great tip Tim! Enjoy your weekend!
Thanks Gloria. You too!
Great video, the eraser is a good little trick, a few other things I've tried over the years, nice work here through!!!!!
Thanks Paul!
Cool too, I used to use the eraser trick with white paint to do raised white letter tires but I never thought to use it with a Molotow pen
Thanks! I might give this a try on tires as well. :D
Nice tip. I use a small piece of BMF over the emblems, burnished down real good before I paint . After paint, I use a tightly wound Q-tip with a little lacquer thinner on it and just go over the raised parts. The lacquer will not hurt the BMF in any way if you use light pressure. I do this for molded in door handles, side marker lights and so on. Try doing it on a test piece first to see if it's something that works for you.
Thanks Tommy. I have seen that tip for BMF, but I fear that with my tremor I would mess it up. But I might go ahead and get some and try on a mule. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@timcarson8146 I feel you're frustrated. i also have tremors. I found this is the best result's because I can't cut straight lines anymore. I also do this around the windows trim with very good results.
Great Idea👍🏻. How do you deal with the edges of the bmf around the logo, Id doesn't show? or do you trim it close?
@Yves95128 just trim as close as you can and burnish the foil again to make sure no edges are sticking up. The paint will cover the foil with no problem. Try a test subject first to see if you like this method. 👌
@@Tommyp65 Thank you👍🏻
Never seen that before ,GREAT JOB!!!!!
Thanks. Appreciate you checking it out.
Great idea, I'm going to gove this a go. Thanks for sharing.👍🏻
Thanks Colin. Let me know how you get on with it.
I like this idea, I'm gonna try it. Thanks!
Thanks Billy. Hope it works for you. I am going to go with smaller erasers and less chrome, so I think my next time will be a bit cleaner.
Great video Tim! Loved the bug eyed look in the beginning lol. We are all looking for little tricks and tips to try to make our next build a little bit better, and this is one that's certainly worth a try! And congratulations on these numbers, WOW!!
Thanks Pappy. I love my magnifiers for sure. Had Lasik almost 10 years ago which was awesome, but the really close stuff needs an assist. :D
@timcarson8146 I haven't had LASIK, but something funky is going on with my eyes the last year or so 🥺
Great Iip Tim, thanks for sharing
Thanks for checking it out Donnie!
I think this is brilliant... Great idea. I can see what might have gone wrong, though, with the bonnet. You had the rubber overloaded with the chrome paint. Maybe dab it on a tissue after loading it so it removes the bulk of it just like the dry brushing technique. I am definitely trying this. I have work that needs this for a 64 Impala. Thank you.
Thanks for checking it out. I think you are spot on! The eraser that I used was too big (I got smaller ones delivered today) and I did notice that the chrome was way too heavy on the eraser.
I think this will work really well on that Impala...let me know how you go!
@@timcarson8146 I'll get onto it soon and report in. :)
Cool tip will have to try it thanks for sharing 👍👍
Thanks Edward. Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Cool idea! I haven't thought of this! Subscribed ..
I find that Molotow chrome is water soluble, and cleanup with water or acrylic thinner is pretty easy - as long as you don't let it dry first.
I also find that I have ZERO luck with the pen - the nib crusts up in no time. I wind using a superfine brush that I have trimmed half the bristles from and actually dip the brush into the end by the nib like a paint jar, and doing something like this I dry-brush it lightly. I don't know if you can do this; I'm blessed not to have any tremors and have no experience with what's possible and what's not.
Thanks for the comment and the sub. Surfed over and subbed ya back. I want to check out your videos on the Tyrone Malone truck. :D
Thanks for the tip (no pun intended) on Molotow. I might try to give it a touch with some acrylic thinner anyway to see if I can clean it up. I got my new, smaller erasers today so I might be getting ready to do an update to the video.
Thanks again, and welcome to the channel!
Very cool tip sir. I’m definitely going to try that.
Thanks Eddie. Jumped over and subbed to you so I can follow your USACC GB as well
Thank you very much for the sub
Very nice tip!! Thanks.
Thanks for checking it out Dave!
Very cool i have tryed different ways to do this. I will have to try it.
Thanks for checking it out Phil. Let me know how you go with it.
great Tip I will have to remember this !
Thanks for watching. I definitely recommend a smaller eraser and a little less paint. :)
Great job Tim... I have tried that and it does work on tall script, shallow not so much.. 😥 My issue is my eyes, mostly blind in the left one and 1/2 of the right eye still works which makes everything interesting... 😁 Hay, it is what it is and I just do the best I can and i'm ok with it... Still having a blast!
LLAP 🖖
Thanks Bruce! The combination of shallow script and too much chrome got me this time. But like you say...we do the best we can and keep on having fun!
Nice idea. This video just showed up in my recommendations. Maybe apply less Molotow chrome on the eraser and just lightly dab it onto the raised detail? That might provide a drybrush approach. I'll give this a shot sometime. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks Steve! Yes, I am certain that I "puddled" the chrome on the eraser. Going to go with less chrome and a smaller eraser next time.
Nice idea, I to have tremors but I build anyway because I enjoy it, thanks for showing vidio!
Thanks JK! Yep...I build for me (and my wife who I now have hooked on the hobby). Just getting back in touch with my inner child. LOL Take care!
Worked great , Great Tip!!👍👍👍
Thanks for checking it out and commenting Mark!
Really nice tip Tim
Thank you Tom!
Awesome tip, brother!! ✌️😁
Thanks Stephen!
Cool tip. I'll try this soon.
Let me know how you go. (I do suggest using a smaller eraser if you can swing one) Thanks!
This is a great idea. I think I’ve heard Justin from Jhart mention it before. I think it’s a great way to control the process a little more than trying to freehand stuff with a pen or brush. By the way, I also love the color. Lovely.
Thanks Kyle. Going to go with a smaller eraser next time and see how I go. I'm pretty happy with how the color and clear came out. :D
@@timcarson8146 good stuff. Smaller eraser is a good idea too. Making things work. I love it.
That's exctly how I do mine. Using the Molotow pens enables you to wipe off any mistakes using acohol as long as your paint can handle the alcohol. To remove any small over applications try using a toothpick soaked in alcohol. Or they make very small touchup brushes/swabs you can get from Amazon to do the same thing.
Thanks for commenting! I have some pointed cotton swabs which I need to keep handy for the next time.
Looks like a pretty good method for chroming the emblems. Maybe it would help to put some thin masking tape, or even bare metal foil around the emblem to avoid getting any chrome on the paint around the badge. I have found that the chrome pen paint is very easy to remove with white spirits if you make a mess of it. A toothpick dipped in white spirits is pretty good for cleaning up edges where it has spilled over onto the paint.
Thanks David! I am going to see if I can go back at this late date and do some cleanup. Otherwise I am going to be ready for the next time (including a smaller eraser and less chrome on it).
@timcarson8146 I've got a Jaguar XJ-S that I want to fix the badge on the rear. I wasn't happy with the job I did on it, so I'm going to try this method or something similar.
Great idea!
Thanks for checking it out!
new sub thanks for the tip i will most definatly be doing this myself from now on.
Thanks for the sub! And thanks for the comment...let me know how you go with it. (My next one will definitely be with a smaller eraser)
It does work. I saw that video also. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ron. I need to tweak my technique but I'll get there!
Great tip Tim!!
Thank you Manny!!
@@timcarson8146 Your welcome!!
I use the dry brush technique. My hands shake bad sometimes due to pain. I add the chrome to my brush and then slowly go over the raised areas. The process is slow because I need to wait until each layer dries completely before applying the next layer.
Thanks Jon. I might give that a try. Best wishes buddy!
Looks good!
Thanks Dave!
Got Molotow - but not one pencil (with erasure) in the house... Going to have to raid office supplies and try this one out. Might try with just a smear of chrome on the rubber, though ;)
Nice job on the Swinger by the way.
Thanks Carl. I definitely suggest smaller erasers...mine was a tad too big. Good luck. Glad you like the build.
Thank u for sharing thumb up keep on building great tip
Thanks for checking it out. Have a great week ahead!
that worked out pretty good
I had good results cutting and sanding a round toothpick
I will try your method also THANKYOU
what about cutting - shaping - the eraser
Thanks Don! Good luck with it...let me know how you go. I have ordered some small mechanical drawing pencil erasers. Cutting and shaping the eraser is a great idea. I might give that a try as well.
Nice job 👍🏿
Thanks Leon!
Looks good from here
Ill try it
Thanks! I definitely recommend using a smaller eraser. :D
To prevent running of the paint into the low areas, it seems that you would need only a filmt of paint on the eraser. I'm going to try this technique on my 1956 Chevy Delray model in the near future.
Thanks Steve. Yeah...pretty sure I was a bit "heavy" on the chrome. Next one will be a smaller eraser and less chrome. Let me know how you go when you do it! Thanks again for commenting.
Cool tip! As a builder with tremors, this is a definite go to. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Don. Sometimes they are a bit frustrating, but I just do other things if I need to. (Although cleaning my bench has not made the list yet LOL)
@ LOL
Where did you get the head lamp.does it have different magnifying lenses
@@iancameron198 you may want to repost this as a regular comment do Tim will see it.
neat idea, i wonder if you tapped a piece of paper before you touch the body to sort of flatten out the paint before application if that would fix the uneveness
Hmmm...that might work. Almost like a dry brush? I know the chrome certainly was too thick on the eraser. Will give that a shot the next time. Thanks for the suggestion!
Great video. I will definitely give this a try. I love that green. This is my first video of yours, just subbed
Thanks man! I subbed you back...definitely going to follow that Subaru Brat build.
@timcarson8146 thank you. It was my mistake involved to date and hardest build
Thanks. This is ingenius!
Thanks Duane. Glad you like it. Hope you get a chance to try it and have success!
Noice tip, cheers Graham
Thanks Graham! My wife is Aussie and we lived down there for about 11 years after we got married. Appreciate you checking in and commenting!
@timcarson8146 interesting 🤔 U should have stay.
That worked really well in my opinion.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Cool tip Tim i wonder if it would work to the letters on tires thanks for sharing peace out brother
Hey Jamie! It would be interesting to try it on tires...I might give that a try. If you do please let me know how you get along with it.
@timcarson8146 hey Tim I will let you know when I try it
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for checking it out Dan!
Interesting, and worth a try.
Thanks for checking it out Charles.
@timcarson8146 It is always worth learning new techniques for making better details.
That's an absolutely beautiful build what brand of paint is that that's a beautiful green
Thank you Valdemar. I appreciate it. The paint is Dupli-Color "Deep Jewel Green Metallic". Whilst not the Mopar color I was hoping to pick up it was close enough. :D (I sprayed over it with Dupli-Color 1K Clear)
Where the real problem is, and the only way to do badges and hood crests is if there was photo-etch aftermarket name badges. For the Japanese 1/24 car modellers there's everything you can image but for American kit builders there's a whole lot of bugger all!
Wow...honestly had not thought of that Vincent. I have not built any of the Japanese cars, but I am not surprised.
One thing I like even better than P.E. are those chrome stickers, once again very limited for super-cars but it looks great on a Ferrari for example.
Cool tip thanks
Thanks Mike!
I have a tip that may or may not work for you is before paint put bmf over the emblems and trim around the emblem then when the paint cure buff the tops of the emblems til the chrome shows through
Thanks for the comment! The fine detail work with BMF is a bit beyond my capabilities with the tremors, so I will probably have to stick with this. But I do love that idea!
I make a little puddle of chrome and apply with a fine brush like paint. A couple of beers 🍺 will smooth out your shakes! 😂
hehehe...I might give that a try! (Do I mean the beer or the brush? Who knows!!) Thanks for checking it out!
Thanks for the. Tp my friend..
Thanks for checking it out!
Cool thanks
Thanks for checking it out Jeff!
I have a similar video too. I thought about doing this. Seems easier.
Thanks Brian. I'm certainly going to check out your video. My next go round will be with a smaller eraser.
Great tip. I’m bookmarking for future reference. If I may be so bold, I have a suggestion based on a couple of observations while watching your video. First, I’m not a young guy and wear bifocals, and second, my observations are based on watching your video on a 70” 4K TV. So, I could be interpreting what I see the wrong way. Feel free to take my observations and suggestion with a large grain of salt. First observation. The tip of the pencil eraser appears to be slightly concave. While this could be a trick of lighting, as an artist of many decades this concave appearance is something that does happen to pencil erasers over time as the rubber dries, shrinks, and gets darker in color. I’ve owned enough of them, long enough, to know. Second observation. When applying the chrome pigment to the eraser it appeared to puddle and be thicker in three very minute spots… which would lead to an uneven application. Suggestion: flatten the tip of the eraser. I think this would keep the chrome pen pigment from puddling and make application more even.
Hey there. Thanks for watching and commenting. The pencil was a brand new one just out of the package, and I did check the surface of the eraser to make sure it was as flat as possible. But still a nice catch!
I totally agree with you about the "puddling". That is the perfect term. I noticed it when I was trying the stamping and it was even more apparent when watching back prior to posting. My next try will be with smaller erasers (from mechanical pencils) and I think I might use a different chrome pen that does not push out so much liquid.
Thanks again for watching and commenting. I appreciate it and of course I appreciate any and all suggestions!
@@timcarson8146 Thanks for the reply and kind words. Wish I had thought of using the eraser from a mechanical pencil. I've certainly used enough of them, too. The rubber in them is a different composition. In my experience, they've always been flatter on the tip... and much better at erasing. Keep us appraised how they work.
👍😎
Thanks Dane!
Been doing this for years many years
Thanks Mike! Do you use smaller erasers?
Still in 2024 cant get separate badges included in kits ☹️😩 9 times out of ten i shave all emblems as its not worth trying, by the time you get to clear that emblem is less n less prominent
Yeah, I know what you mean Keith. I've seen some kits with the emblems as decals, but actual chrome (or PE) emblems would be nice!
Badges? We don't need no stinking badges!😳
Jman
I was waiting for someone to go there! Thanks for not disappointing! :D
@timcarson8146 couldn't resist!🤣
Jman
I've used this method using a little block of wood or wood dowl you want the paint to be very thin and tacky
Thanks! I like the wood idea for sure. I certainly had too much paint on the eraser (and the eraser was too big). Tweaking to follow. :)
Instead of the marker use spray on the eraser lightly now with that being said I’m on my first car and it’s coming out very bad
Thanks for the suggestion. My spraying rarely ends up being "light", but I might give it a try. Best of luck with that first build. First few can be tough but just keep plugging away and have fun!
I did mine with the side of the chrome maker not the tip.
I've tried that a couple of times, but the tremor that I have makes that method "hit or miss" (Literally). Thanks for checking it out!
@timcarson8146 what about bmf under paint?
9 minute video that should be 2. Begin at 4:10. You’re welcome.
Thanks Dave. I am indeed trying to "tighten things up". I appreciate the feedback.
maybe if it dries or light blot be for samping sand real flat
Yeah, I tried a Q-tip with a bit of thinner. But otherwise I was scared I would make things worse. LOL Thanks for checking it out
Maybe let the paint get tacky, so it doesn’t spread over too much?
Definitely something to think about. Although I think I put too much on the eraser to begin with. Thanks for checking it out.
Did you know mistakes can be wiped off with rubbing alcohol right!
Yeah...found that out after everything dried. Was going to go back and see if I can try this late in the game. Thanks for watching!
Wow great tip ! Thank you,
Thanks for checking it out!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Samuel.