Upper control arms are popular because they don't have as much load on them as a lower control arm. So it's easy for people to manufacture them and they technically fix alignment issues after lifting a truck. The downside is, to give you that caster it takes tire clearance from you. You can add more caster with the lower eccentrics sometimes but really you're just trying to make up lost ground. The better alternative is high caster lower control arms. They are more expensive , but they move the bottom of the tire forward instead of the top of the tire backwards to get you more caster. That gives you more tire clearance right off the bat while fixing alignment issues that happened after lifting a truck.
New 24 sr5 prem. 4R owner here. Just blew all my cash on the vehicle, but one day looking to do some of these adjustments down the road. If you aren't a teacher yet, you should become one man! Really informative and easy to follow. Thank you for describing it to me like the 5 year old I am!
Amazing video! Very well explained. These Toyotas with a 3in lift and stock UCA won’t even get 1 degree of caster with camber close to 0. Highly recommended the UCA anything more then a leveling kit
Great video and great explanation. Like the drawings . 😊 Thank you for the great info ! On the pan hard bar bracket kit . I did some research and if you lift the rear over 2in this is needed . I was told that if your lift is 2 or less then 2inchs it is not needed . I have a 2in lift in the rear and it drives like stock . I hope this helps anyone looking into that mod . Mine is a 2019 4 Runner.
Awesome video and awesome timing. I'm waiting for a lift kit for my 4th gen to be delivered and am doing research on how to keep factory-like ride quality. This is the absolute best summary of the geometry that I've seen amywhere.
Installing the Dr KDSS sometime this coming up week. Probably wait until my CVs go out before I buy new ones and then diff drop too but will do the lowering arms more than likely instead of spacers. With the rear extended travel I’ll also do adjustable trailing arms too. 😩😂
How many inches of lift does it take to start needing to change out all or some of these components? I have an 18 SR5 and recently installed a Eibach PRO-TRUCK-LIFT Stage 1. This provides +2.75" Front | +2.25" to 1.75" Rear Do I need to consider changing any of these parts out?
Great video. Very informative. I have a Limited with XREAS removed and Bilstein 5100s, Wildpeak ATW3. 1.5” lift in front. Stock UCA LCA. Even with caster pushed to the max 3.4 degrees I get some wandering on the freeway. It’s tiresome on long trips. Might need UCA to get more caster I guess?
If you have 3.4 degrees then it probably isn’t related to the caster. I would check for worn loose ball joints/bushings. I would jack the front end up and grab the different components with your hand and see if there is any movement. Try moving the wheel, rock it and twist it checking if the hub is worn or loose. Grab the tie rods and see if they have any play. You could also remove the skid and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while stationary as you look for movement or play. Place a pry bar under the front wheel with the wheel off the ground and see if you can pry it up. This will check for play in the LCA ball joint. Hope this helps
I have the foxshocks 2.0 on my 4th gen v8 runner, this is a mild lift of 2.0 - 2.5" inches max. Would I still need these adjustments? ShocksSurplus told me no... but my front end links keep cutting into CV boots and causing them to burst?
`2014 4 runner is making some noise. Sounds like2 something is going to fall off when i hit a bump. Cant pinpoint where its coming from I have Fox 2.5 suspension with 100,000 miles. What do you suggest that can be causing that noise also have aftermarket exhaust thank you. it’s like a clunk sound.
Hello, if I used a 1.5" in the rear and 2" in the front, what kind of corrections should I do? also, after the "alignment," the driver front tire got a positive camber, so please, can u help me 😊
I have kings all around aftermarket UCA and medium duty springs. 3.5’ lift in front and 3’ in the rear. Even though I have never experienced any of this conditions do I still need to do some of these mods ? Or is this only necessary if you’ve experienced some of these issues described. Thanks.
To be honest, a lot of them you won’t notice until you make the switch. For example, as soon as I put the panhard correction on and hit a bump it was aha moment. I instantly realized a big difference and my alignment is better on be paper. It’s up to you really, the trailing arms probably aren’t necessary unless you go over 3” or experience vibrations from your pinion angle being off
At what point is it important to make these corrections? Ice got a 1.75/1 inch lift on 5100s and eibach springs and so far it doesnt seem like its been affected, although i havent checked angles
Diff drop doesn't do much, look at your ribs, still rubbing, you lose 1/2" of ground clearance. Doesn't matter if your CV's have power or not either. They still rotate. Let the CV boots wear out and replace with a high angle inner boot.
@@jfriday1ify I am referring to the CV (constant-velocity) joint itself not the boot. I understand the joint is always rotating. When constant pressure or load is placed on the joint (full time 4wd), especially at an extended angle, the Pressure and velocity causes it to wear faster. The RCI skids I am throwing on do not require spacers and can accommodate “up to a 1” diff drop, without exception” I have yet to test/measure this but I will do that in an upcoming video. Most 4runner do not have full time 4wd like mine though so the joint won’t be under load and the high angle boots would be perfect.
Upper control arms are popular because they don't have as much load on them as a lower control arm. So it's easy for people to manufacture them and they technically fix alignment issues after lifting a truck. The downside is, to give you that caster it takes tire clearance from you. You can add more caster with the lower eccentrics sometimes but really you're just trying to make up lost ground. The better alternative is high caster lower control arms. They are more expensive , but they move the bottom of the tire forward instead of the top of the tire backwards to get you more caster. That gives you more tire clearance right off the bat while fixing alignment issues that happened after lifting a truck.
New 24 sr5 prem. 4R owner here. Just blew all my cash on the vehicle, but one day looking to do some of these adjustments down the road. If you aren't a teacher yet, you should become one man! Really informative and easy to follow. Thank you for describing it to me like the 5 year old I am!
Same here (SR5)... new SUB and these vids are sick
this is fantastic! why have i not heard other overlanders talk about this?!
Absolutely great teacher, great information, reminds me of engineering class
Amazing video! Very well explained. These Toyotas with a 3in lift and stock UCA won’t even get 1 degree of caster with camber close to 0. Highly recommended the UCA anything more then a leveling kit
Thank you! 100% agree with ya
Great video and great explanation. Like the drawings . 😊 Thank you for the great info ! On the pan hard bar bracket kit . I did some research and if you lift the rear over 2in this is needed . I was told that if your lift is 2 or less then 2inchs it is not needed . I have a 2in lift in the rear and it drives like stock . I hope this helps anyone looking into that mod . Mine is a 2019 4 Runner.
Thanks so much! And thanks for sharing!
I just bought panhard kit after a year+ of having a lift
Awesome video and awesome timing. I'm waiting for a lift kit for my 4th gen to be delivered and am doing research on how to keep factory-like ride quality. This is the absolute best summary of the geometry that I've seen amywhere.
Would these skyjackers be to long for a 2” or 2.5” lift. I definitely need something back there.
Also for the panhard you linked?
Installing the Dr KDSS sometime this coming up week. Probably wait until my CVs go out before I buy new ones and then diff drop too but will do the lowering arms more than likely instead of spacers. With the rear extended travel I’ll also do adjustable trailing arms too. 😩😂
Truly knowledgeable. The best informative video about lifting. Thanks!
Would any of this be applicable for a 1 to 2 in level lift?
Great video. Very informative!
Excellent explanation and demonstration!
Thanks for great video im about to lift my 4runner.
Great vids man, love your maintenance stuff, please keep it up
Thank you!! 🙏🏼
What if you remove the rear sway bar and keep the front installed (like a Tundra or Tacoma) ?
Do you hace a video that shows Correctly lifting a 4 runner with correcting the sway bar and a differential allignment
Such a great video!
How many inches of lift does it take to start needing to change out all or some of these components?
I have an 18 SR5 and recently installed a Eibach PRO-TRUCK-LIFT Stage 1.
This provides +2.75" Front | +2.25" to 1.75" Rear
Do I need to consider changing any of these parts out?
Great video. Very informative. I have a Limited with XREAS removed and Bilstein 5100s, Wildpeak ATW3. 1.5” lift in front. Stock UCA LCA. Even with caster pushed to the max 3.4 degrees I get some wandering on the freeway. It’s tiresome on long trips. Might need UCA to get more caster I guess?
If you have 3.4 degrees then it probably isn’t related to the caster. I would check for worn loose ball joints/bushings. I would jack the front end up and grab the different components with your hand and see if there is any movement. Try moving the wheel, rock it and twist it checking if the hub is worn or loose. Grab the tie rods and see if they have any play. You could also remove the skid and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while stationary as you look for movement or play. Place a pry bar under the front wheel with the wheel off the ground and see if you can pry it up. This will check for play in the LCA ball joint. Hope this helps
@@T4Rgaragewill do. Thank you.
@@wolfeadventures any results
so the skyjacker rear link is plug and play for 4runner thats lifted 2''? lengthwise is perfect for lifted 4 runner?
Should have greased the bushings and sleeves so it doesn’t squeak and makes it easier to remove if it rusts out
I have the foxshocks 2.0 on my 4th gen v8 runner, this is a mild lift of 2.0 - 2.5" inches max. Would I still need these adjustments? ShocksSurplus told me no... but my front end links keep cutting into CV boots and causing them to burst?
`2014 4 runner is making some noise. Sounds like2 something is going to fall off when i hit a bump. Cant pinpoint where its coming from I have Fox 2.5 suspension with 100,000 miles. What do you suggest that can be causing that noise also have aftermarket exhaust thank you. it’s like a clunk sound.
Hello, if I used a 1.5" in the rear and 2" in the front, what kind of corrections should I do? also, after the "alignment," the driver front tire got a positive camber, so please, can u help me 😊
I did a 2” lift. Was told much more and would have to do “extra stuff”. I’m assuming it would be the law changes. So agree should be good at 2”?
Where did you get your 4runner lifted and how much estimate and how many inches did you lift?
I have kings all around aftermarket UCA and medium duty springs. 3.5’ lift in front and 3’ in the rear. Even though I have never experienced any of this conditions do I still need to do some of these mods ? Or is this only necessary if you’ve experienced some of these issues described. Thanks.
To be honest, a lot of them you won’t notice until you make the switch. For example, as soon as I put the panhard correction on and hit a bump it was aha moment. I instantly realized a big difference and my alignment is better on be paper. It’s up to you really, the trailing arms probably aren’t necessary unless you go over 3” or experience vibrations from your pinion angle being off
What about only 1" of rear lift? Are Panhard correction and sway bar links needed?
With 1” I wouldn’t worry about it, you’re good 👍🏼
At what point is it important to make these corrections? Ice got a 1.75/1 inch lift on 5100s and eibach springs and so far it doesnt seem like its been affected, although i havent checked angles
Ah. Guess i should have finished the video first. Thanks for the info!!
Diff drop doesn't do much, look at your ribs, still rubbing, you lose 1/2" of ground clearance. Doesn't matter if your CV's have power or not either. They still rotate. Let the CV boots wear out and replace with a high angle inner boot.
@@jfriday1ify I am referring to the CV (constant-velocity) joint itself not the boot. I understand the joint is always rotating. When constant pressure or load is placed on the joint (full time 4wd), especially at an extended angle, the Pressure and velocity causes it to wear faster. The RCI skids I am throwing on do not require spacers and can accommodate “up to a 1” diff drop, without exception” I have yet to test/measure this but I will do that in an upcoming video. Most 4runner do not have full time 4wd like mine though so the joint won’t be under load and the high angle boots would be perfect.
What sway bar??? 😅
I figure the rear better be working if the front isn’t there haha!
Rear only!