I put the old diaphragms and gaskets aside and find the new ones by matching the old ones against the new ones and finding the exact ones. The 021 should take a Walbro K20- WAT rebuild kit. I keep extra ones of these in my parts container because they fit lots of carbs. Big Stihl saws take K20- HD. I keep both the WAT and HD rebuild kits in my carb parts container.
My new furry el line on my 021 would not hold pressure. It was leaking under the grommet, which was seated all the way down. I don’t mess to much with those kind of leaks. I put some 1184 on the tank and the grommet. It doesn’t leak anymore. I also do not like the short impulse line that Stihl uses. I put a little longer Tygon ( abt. 1” longer) line on my 021. A lot easier to get on. Than that short little line from Stihl.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I also used a piece of Tygon for the impulse line on my 021. The Stihl one is just to damn short to get on the nipple on the rear handle. Mine is about one inch longer than the Stihl impulse line.
Hey, Scott, it’s me again. 😂 Interesting watching the videos you’re publishing now while working my way through the old ones. BIG QUESTION: I modified a carpenter’s nailset to make a perfect welch plug removal tool based on the one I saw in the Walbro toolkit. Tried it out yesterday for my first ever welch plug removal and it worked perfectly. I removed both the large and the small plugs easily. Then I dug out the screen and circlip out from under the smaller one. Now I’m having the devil of a time getting a new circlip in! I think I’ve seen every Walbro video, including the one featuring their updated tool kit, but I don’t see a tool for this procedure. I think it would be similar to the Stihl wrist pin tool, just a different size. I’ve replaced wrist pin circlips using my own ingenuity, but this tiny circlip is different. Any help? This morning I dug through every toolbox, drawer, bathroom shelf I have to find tubes the correct size to compress the circlip so I could use a smaller drift to push the circlip into place through the tube and I think I may have one that will work, but I thought I’d ask for your input to see if this is something you’ve done or know about. Thanks!
Its a task I try to avoid for those very reasons plus one other big reason. We bill by the hour and getting that deep into a carb rebuild takes time and has no gaurantees. Carb replacement is usually more cost effective, so sorry I have no tips for you on this one.
@@TheGreasyShopRag That’s okay! I totally understand. Got the exact same answer from Lester (Olive) yesterday. I really appreciate you responding anyhow. 🙏👍🔧
Do you get all your kits from Husqvarna? It just seems kits with the micro screen are hard to find. Im still learning where to buy all these parts for Husqvarna since were a stihl dealer. Another great video brother thank you.
We don't get many carb kits from Husqvarna. We buy original zama and walbro kits from large outdoor power equipment distributors. Those kits are available as gasket/diaphragm kits or full rebuild kits.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you for responding, would you mind if I asked which companies you buy from. I'm not having much luck finding them but that's probably my fault not looking in the right place. Thank you sir I hope you have a wonderful Sunday and upcoming week.
Are you referring to the scene where I used a pump to pressure test the fuel system? If so, I'm testing the fuel line and carb, not the tank. The tank is vented anyway and isn't designed to hold pressure.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome I do like this series of bench repairs.
I enjoy making them. Thanks for watching.
I put the old diaphragms and gaskets aside and find the new ones by matching the old ones against the new ones and finding the exact ones. The 021 should take a Walbro K20- WAT rebuild kit. I keep extra ones of these in my parts container because they fit lots of carbs. Big Stihl saws take K20- HD. I keep both the WAT and HD rebuild kits in my carb parts container.
Good plan keeper those spares on hand.
My new furry el line on my 021 would not hold pressure. It was leaking under the grommet, which was seated all the way down. I don’t mess to much with those kind of leaks. I put some 1184 on the tank and the grommet. It doesn’t leak anymore. I also do not like the short impulse line that Stihl uses. I put a little longer Tygon ( abt. 1” longer) line on my 021. A lot easier to get on. Than that short little line from Stihl.
Thats a good tip. I'll consider it next time I have to replace that line.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I also used a piece of Tygon for the impulse line on my 021. The Stihl one is just to damn short to get on the nipple on the rear handle. Mine is about one inch longer than the Stihl impulse line.
Saws that Inhate are those you need three hands to work on. Some Stihl saws are that way.
Hey, Scott, it’s me again. 😂 Interesting watching the videos you’re publishing now while working my way through the old ones.
BIG QUESTION: I modified a carpenter’s nailset to make a perfect welch plug removal tool based on the one I saw in the Walbro toolkit. Tried it out yesterday for my first ever welch plug removal and it worked perfectly. I removed both the large and the small plugs easily. Then I dug out the screen and circlip out from under the smaller one. Now I’m having the devil of a time getting a new circlip in! I think I’ve seen every Walbro video, including the one featuring their updated tool kit, but I don’t see a tool for this procedure. I think it would be similar to the Stihl wrist pin tool, just a different size. I’ve replaced wrist pin circlips using my own ingenuity, but this tiny circlip is different. Any help?
This morning I dug through every toolbox, drawer, bathroom shelf I have to find tubes the correct size to compress the circlip so I could use a smaller drift to push the circlip into place through the tube and I think I may have one that will work, but I thought I’d ask for your input to see if this is something you’ve done or know about. Thanks!
Its a task I try to avoid for those very reasons plus one other big reason. We bill by the hour and getting that deep into a carb rebuild takes time and has no gaurantees. Carb replacement is usually more cost effective, so sorry I have no tips for you on this one.
@@TheGreasyShopRag
That’s okay! I totally understand. Got the exact same answer from Lester (Olive) yesterday. I really appreciate you responding anyhow. 🙏👍🔧
Do you get all your kits from Husqvarna? It just seems kits with the micro screen are hard to find. Im still learning where to buy all these parts for Husqvarna since were a stihl dealer. Another great video brother thank you.
We don't get many carb kits from Husqvarna. We buy original zama and walbro kits from large outdoor power equipment distributors. Those kits are available as gasket/diaphragm kits or full rebuild kits.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you for responding, would you mind if I asked which companies you buy from. I'm not having much luck finding them but that's probably my fault not looking in the right place. Thank you sir I hope you have a wonderful Sunday and upcoming week.
What if you don’t have any pressure in the tank what could it be
Are you referring to the scene where I used a pump to pressure test the fuel system? If so, I'm testing the fuel line and carb, not the tank. The tank is vented anyway and isn't designed to hold pressure.
Still pretty easy to get gasket kits for these old carbs?
On this one yes but Stihl owns Zama carburetor and for some of the carbs you need to order the kit directly from a Stihl dealer.
I'm confused. Where's the grease zerk on THIS machine?
Its at the nose sprocket of the bar but over greasing won't be an issue :-)
Can bad gas also be a factor
Yes bad gas can contribute to bogging or not running at all.