I've only run into this problem once and it was on a 275 fount. Thinking that the low profile of the fount would easily allow it to flood the air tube when tilted. But the low profile is great for stability. Ironic. But it's nice to know that folks are out there making brilliant solutions to these pesky problems! Great work!
Hello from Venezuela, I had this problem with the pump, so place the tank in a pot with soap and vinegar and let it boil for an hour or so and it worked out ok.
Thanks for commenting. I'm surprised that actually worked. You typically need something more forcefully to get up into the small air tube due to its location and a possible airlock. Glad you figured it out. Cheers.
What lantern is it? Pulsing can be caused by a few things... old/dirty generator, debris in the air tube(s), no burner screens, bad/old fuel, weak spring in the fuel pickup tube, low pressure, air leak in the burner tube assembly or as simple of not turning the valve wheel all the way open. Sometimes this can be a mystery.
@@MikeFreda Thanks Mike i`m goin to blame the generator. I`m going to boil an another tank (fount, sorry for spelling) and let you know about it thanks again.
Hello Mike, by any chance you have an idea how to substitute the cardboard thing in the generator, thanks for all the ideas you have share. have a nice day
Old Coleman Parts sells them. You can find it on their online store. I've seen a coil of wire and small springs used before. Half my lanterns don't have these tubes and run okay. Most people just burn out the old ones with a torch and run the lantern as is. If your lantern runs okay, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Cheers
Hi Mike Freda, I recently came across your video and found it incredibly informative. Thank you for sharing such valuable content! I have a Coleman lantern, model 231, which is in rough shape. It's heavily corroded and was damaged when I got it. I’ve restored some parts of it-welding the tank's leak holes and painting it-but now I’m trying to find burner parts and a pump to complete the restoration. Collecting old lamps is a hobby of mine, and restoring this Coleman lantern has been a labor of love. Would you happen to have any advice or suggestions on where I might find these parts? Any guidance you can offer would mean a lot. Thanks again for your helpful videos! Best regards, Sam from Sri Lanka
Thanks for commenting. Glad you find my videos helpful. I’m not too familiar with Coleman export models but the 231 is very similar to the 220J. Many of the parts are interchangeable. Try to purchase one of those and order parts from Old Coleman Parts. That being said, if your tank is bad and you tried to fix it… I would be very cautious. I suspect more is wrong with it. I would get a new tank (fount) if I were you. Just get a used 220J and swap the required parts. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda Thank you so much for your quick response and the helpful suggestions! However, I’m based in Sri Lanka, and it’s quite challenging to find Coleman parts or used lanterns here. That’s part of why this restoration project has been such a journey for me! Despite the hurdles, I’m determined to bring this lamp back to life, as it’s a special part of my collection. I truly appreciate your advice, Your videos and guidance have been invaluable-thank you again! Cheers
Mike, Thanks for the instructive video. However looking up the 1/8"x32 NEF die I saw your Amazon link is for the uxcell 1/4-28 UNF Round Die. Further looking for the 1/8"x32 NEF die did not get results. I looked up in the Taylortool product catalogue and the smallest nearest die was 1/4"X32 NEF. Can you please give directions where to obtain the 1/8"x32 NEF die?
Thanks for pointing it out. Corrections have been made. One thing that you can do to save some costs is just get a 1/4" x 32 tap and you can omit getting the 1/4" x 28 tap and die set. I did mine using 1/4" x 28 since that's what I has in my tool drawer. Cheers
@@MikeFreda Thank you for your quick response. I am looking for the proper die for making your valve removal tool suitable for the inner thread of the newer check valve (Coleman 425F stove). Is that the 8x32 you mention? Is there a specific type of thread (designation) to take into account, UNC or other?
You're welcome. 8x32 is a UNC pitch. There is only one type in this size. It's very common. When making a Check Valve removal tool in this size, I don't use a Die, just a tap. I purchase a 1" long 8x32 stainless machine bolt and tap/screw into the end of the rod.
Hi Mike! The interior of that cut open fount looks like it is covered in rust. My never used 10/71 220F looks the same when I look in through the fuel fill port with a flashlight. It doesn't rub off, even with carb cleaner and a long cotton tipped swab. Is that rust or some kind of anti rust primer applied at the factory?
Thanks for commenting. That fount is for the mid 70's and I think they used some sort of corrosion inhibitor from the factory. It's not rust. It looks to me that whatever it is, it just reacted with the fuel and turned that color. Cheers
I don't mean to be disrespekful. I bawt one of those from some one else off eBay an used it on a millatary stove an a lanturn fount I even filled it with carb cleaner an used my air compressor an it dident clear the tube
Thanks for commenting. You probably have more going on here. I would recommend removing the check valve and using the hydraulic method I described in my other video. Another option is to use a tool that has a grease fitting. No tool is 100% perfect and sometimes you have to think outside the box. Cheers.
I've only run into this problem once and it was on a 275 fount. Thinking that the low profile of the fount would easily allow it to flood the air tube when tilted. But the low profile is great for stability. Ironic. But it's nice to know that folks are out there making brilliant solutions to these pesky problems! Great work!
Thanks for commenting. Over the years, it's only happened to me a few times... but it does happen. cheers!
Thanks Mike! This vid is worth twice the price just for the thread size / pitch info alone!
Thanks, glad you found it helpful! Cheers.
Hello from Venezuela, I had this problem with the pump, so place the tank in a pot with soap and vinegar and let it boil for an hour or so and it worked out ok.
Thanks for commenting. I'm surprised that actually worked. You typically need something more forcefully to get up into the small air tube due to its location and a possible airlock. Glad you figured it out. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda probably lucky
Milke the intensity of the mantles are pulsating, fluctuating is not constat, any hint please?
What lantern is it? Pulsing can be caused by a few things... old/dirty generator, debris in the air tube(s), no burner screens, bad/old fuel, weak spring in the fuel pickup tube, low pressure, air leak in the burner tube assembly or as simple of not turning the valve wheel all the way open. Sometimes this can be a mystery.
@@MikeFreda Thanks Mike i`m goin to blame the generator. I`m going to boil an another tank (fount, sorry for spelling) and let you know about it thanks again.
You Sir are a true Wizard!
Thanks.
Everyone one of those are so cool! 👍🏻
Hello Mike, by any chance you have an idea how to substitute the cardboard thing in the generator, thanks for all the ideas you have share. have a nice day
Old Coleman Parts sells them. You can find it on their online store. I've seen a coil of wire and small springs used before. Half my lanterns don't have these tubes and run okay. Most people just burn out the old ones with a torch and run the lantern as is. If your lantern runs okay, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Cheers
Good job on my tool design
Awesome work
Thanks. Cheers.
Hi Mike Freda,
I recently came across your video and found it incredibly informative. Thank you for sharing such valuable content!
I have a Coleman lantern, model 231, which is in rough shape. It's heavily corroded and was damaged when I got it. I’ve restored some parts of it-welding the tank's leak holes and painting it-but now I’m trying to find burner parts and a pump to complete the restoration.
Collecting old lamps is a hobby of mine, and restoring this Coleman lantern has been a labor of love. Would you happen to have any advice or suggestions on where I might find these parts?
Any guidance you can offer would mean a lot. Thanks again for your helpful videos!
Best regards,
Sam
from Sri Lanka
Thanks for commenting. Glad you find my videos helpful. I’m not too familiar with Coleman export models but the 231 is very similar to the 220J. Many of the parts are interchangeable. Try to purchase one of those and order parts from Old Coleman Parts.
That being said, if your tank is bad and you tried to fix it… I would be very cautious. I suspect more is wrong with it. I would get a new tank (fount) if I were you. Just get a used 220J and swap the required parts. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda Thank you so much for your quick response and the helpful suggestions!
However, I’m based in Sri Lanka, and it’s quite challenging to find Coleman parts or used lanterns here. That’s part of why this restoration project has been such a journey for me! Despite the hurdles, I’m determined to bring this lamp back to life, as it’s a special part of my collection.
I truly appreciate your advice, Your videos and guidance have been invaluable-thank you again!
Cheers
Clever design
Thanks. Was a bit of a head scratcher. Cheers.
Mike, Thanks for the instructive video. However looking up the 1/8"x32 NEF die I saw your Amazon link is for the uxcell 1/4-28 UNF Round Die. Further looking for the 1/8"x32 NEF die did not get results. I looked up in the Taylortool product catalogue and the smallest nearest die was 1/4"X32 NEF. Can you please give directions where to obtain the 1/8"x32 NEF die?
Thanks for pointing it out. Corrections have been made. One thing that you can do to save some costs is just get a 1/4" x 32 tap and you can omit getting the 1/4" x 28 tap and die set. I did mine using 1/4" x 28 since that's what I has in my tool drawer. Cheers
@@MikeFreda Thank you for your quick response. I am looking for the proper die for making your valve removal tool suitable for the inner thread of the newer check valve (Coleman 425F stove). Is that the 8x32 you mention? Is there a specific type of thread (designation) to take into account, UNC or other?
You're welcome. 8x32 is a UNC pitch. There is only one type in this size. It's very common. When making a Check Valve removal tool in this size, I don't use a Die, just a tap. I purchase a 1" long 8x32 stainless machine bolt and tap/screw into the end of the rod.
@@MikeFreda Thanks again Mike. You mean by the rod in which you tap the 8x32, the 1/4" rod?
Yes. That’s the easiest and cheapest way to do it.
Hi Mike! The interior of that cut open fount looks like it is covered in rust. My never used 10/71 220F looks the same when I look in through the fuel fill port with a flashlight. It doesn't rub off, even with carb cleaner and a long cotton tipped swab. Is that rust or some kind of anti rust primer applied at the factory?
Thanks for commenting. That fount is for the mid 70's and I think they used some sort of corrosion inhibitor from the factory. It's not rust. It looks to me that whatever it is, it just reacted with the fuel and turned that color. Cheers
@@MikeFreda Thank you Mike! That's the answer I was hoping for!!!
I don't mean to be disrespekful. I bawt one of those from some one else off eBay an used it on a millatary stove an a lanturn fount I even filled it with carb cleaner an used my air compressor an it dident clear the tube
Thanks for commenting. You probably have more going on here. I would recommend removing the check valve and using the hydraulic method I described in my other video. Another option is to use a tool that has a grease fitting. No tool is 100% perfect and sometimes you have to think outside the box. Cheers.
👍👍
Thanks!
Now, if you only sold those!
I can make some extra. Please PM me for details. Cheers.
I am now afraid my old lantern might be clogged. It’s been sitting for a few years. Uh oh…