SDG
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- JLCPCB PCBs for $2 & SMT assembly service: jlcpcb.com/
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#pcb #jlcpcb #ElectronicsCreators - Наука та технологія
Fun fact- dont put ceramic capacitors near your "rabbit holes" or "mouse bites". For instance- C5(?) on your panel is right next to your rabbit holes. If you bend the board to break away from the panel, theres a good chance you will crack your ceramic capacitor as well.
You can copy and paste into the original file without a problem. I have been panelizing in Proteus this way as I didn't know there was another way. Do a DRC then copy to clipboard and paste as many copies as necessary. Make a gerber file, but do not do a DRC. When you close and reopen Proteus all of the copies will be greyed out and will need to be deleted. Quick and dirty, but effective.
Great insight...Thanks Steve 👍
Thanks. Can you share .pdsprj file? or I need a panalized example project.
Please make a video on how to decide the trace width and via diameter.
You can just calculate this? Enough info on the web about this.
A video would be nice offcourse.
There are 3rd party panelization programs, if your software doesn't have any support.
For Design Spark PCB, simply copying the board in the program works fine, it asks if you want to "merge with existing net" just answer "all no".
Just save the panel version under a different name.
The panelization mode check box is not active. what should i do?
Do you have to consider the mechanical stress of de-panelizing the PCBs (i.e. cutting them out!). What's the best way to do that (asks the beginner to PCB production beyond liquid resist and free hand drawing!). Thanks Steve for sharing!
Yes, so it's a tradeoff between panel rigidity and removal force. For production you'd normally use a jig that snaps them with zero force to the assembly or alternatively a final routing pass is made. For DIY, it's down to careful planning.
I'm going to experiment a little to come up with some basic design rules as I failed to find any decent resources
@@sdgelectronics For panels like yours, about the only way I've found to separate them with no risk of cracking MLCCs or breaking IC legs is to use a hacksaw blade to cut the castellations, then file the edges smooth. V-scoring, done properly, makes for easier PCB separation, but I don't know if JLC does that. Can't get radiused corners with V-scoring, however.
I notice there are no fiducials on your boards. Does JLC not require them for automated assembly?
@@FlyingShotsman unfortunately no v-scoring can be done on PCBs that go through the SMT assembly service oddly. Not sure why. They use tooling holes rather than fiducials, which are the little holes you can see around the panel
@@FlyingShotsman There are mouse bite nibblers available for de paneling, they come in a range of widths to suite the slots. Ebay item 252179964778 is only £12.99, search for pcb nibbler :)
Good video! At my previous job, we started panelizing using v-scoring rather than slots and mouse bites. What should I keep in mind when choosing one or the other? Just the ease of having straight lines from one end of the board to another, or is there something more?
JLCPCB for some reason do not do the SMT assembly service on panels done by V scoring. For non assembled V score panels the criteria are 20mm minimum distance between scores ( they can do less than 20mm but there will be an engineering charge ), the V score machine requires a 70mm minimum length of the panel. Scores must go straight across the panel.
If your pcb's are less than 20mm wide then use mouse bites instead, if your panel is less than 70mm long then add a boarder to take it over 70mm. As an example you can panel by V groove a pcb that is 20mm wide and 52mm long 5 across with a 10mm boarder on the ends to take it over the 70mm, the width will be 100mm and so the panel size is within the 100 x 100 size for the $2 offer :)
Damn. I thought this was going to be about how to do up PCBs so that they can be used behind the front panel
Ótimo vídeo Steve. Gostas de usar o Ares para roteamento de placas?
Thanks, yes, partly because I've used it for so long, so I can prepare designs very quickly. I think it's a good tool though.
Can you do more videos on production as well? I'm on my way to making my first production but there's not much info out there. Also, a majority of guides are focused on extreme amounts of production volume where it's a whole different story for lower volumes. Thanks!
Is there anything specific you need to know?
SDG Electronics I would love to see a series of how things are done after designing the PCBs with your tips and tricks along the way.
Thanks for this. I said before I probably have learnt more from you than other other youtube videos. I use to created my projects by plugging together wemos/arduino boards with very simple
pcbs to allow joining. I have now been inspired to convert my old wireless blind controller to a pcb as my brother wants the same so I have to make it more user friendly now.
Schematic drive.google.com/file/d/1KmeCSTC_glbcSmax6qCGXAs7xr3GNksz/view
PCB drive.google.com/file/d/15sv7q3CCqkSrB8I9cLInoTxyb5IhEzqF/view
I have used your idea of drilling holes to separate the board in half so I can break or cut easier
(jlpcb can only do v grooves on boards greater than 70*70mm).
I also used some of your design style from you other schematics like the NTP clock.
Have you ever consider having the odd episode of critiquing other peoples designs they send in ?
It would probably show up mistakes you would not even think of ever making so could prove illuminating.
Thanks for all the hard work.
I hate pushbutton footprints. They're easy to mess up and sometimes difficult to figure out from the data sheets, especially when the data sheet is wrong. I always try to confirm pushbutton footprints now.
Hi, how did you make the non - plated hole?
It depends on the software, but it's specified by your drill file
@@sdgelectronics, what is the recommended size for the panelized holes?
cheers.
Interesting. I am also a long time proteus user. Shame about the push and shove routing.