I enjoyed the visit with you today. Do not let trolls or critics bother you. Delete the comments you do not like it is your channel after all. Thanks for the video.
+mrpete222 Hi Lyle, sorry UA-cam will not me do any new posts, only reply to others. So my reason for getting onto you is about you drilling brass. You state hang onto the work as it will grab ! Not if you back off the cutting edge with 3 or 4 strokes of an oilstone. And that only applies to hard brass, bronze, gunmetal and certain plastics. Your sheet brass is bend-able, which means it is what is called half hard brass, a fully sharp drill will not grab and the swarf will come off as curls. Standard brass stock, the swarf come out in chips. I would hope that you could clarify this in one of your upcoming videos, instead of keep repeating "Hang onto the work, it may grab", there is no need for it to grab. As you are perhaps introducing new comers to engineering, every 'Old Timers' tips and tricks of the trade should be passed on. Are you going to steam these, or only compressed air ? If steam, then you are still mixing water, brass and aluminium and you will get an electrolytic action and the piston will eventually corrode and seize up. Keep up the good work and do not worry about trolls or thumbs down merchants.
+Dave Ticehurst Thanks Dave. I have heard that before, and need to try it & show it. I just don't use brass all that often. I also intend to make a video on drilling platic to avoid grabbing. Just air, no steam.
As usual - GREAT STUFF! Thank you for another great instructional video. The added bits are ALWAYS appreciated as they can make the largest differeance at times! Look forward to the rest of the series!
Tubalcain, from one 72 year old shop teacher to anotherI really like how you give alternatives to do things. I did the same thing when I taught. Great videos. Have a Happy New Year. Brian
Sir, I have only discovered your videos lately, your skill and concise adn practical teaching style are exceptional. You have rekindled my interest in machining after 20 years. Thank you so much. If I can only stop watching and get into the workshop. Happy New Year.
What a great way to start the new year, a Tubalcain video! Mr. Pete I hope and pray you have a healthy and happy new year. Keep up the good work on all of the different kinds of video you do.
Thank you for a great video. I've been gathering materials as you progress. Ready to re-run video 1 to start. Looking forward to spending 2016 with you.
Enjoyed .. Drill hog has those bits with a lifetime USA return .. I use them and broke one and was sent a new one without retuning the broken one .. Good company !!
Great series Mr Pete. I will be following this guide for my first real project on my Hercus 9 inch as soon as my garage is complete. Do you have any recommendations for used mill drills that are decent quality? Regards from Melbourne Australia.
Just a little trivia about your Christmas tree bit: It was invented in 1971 by a guy named Harry Oakes and sold as 'Unibit' until the patent expired. Now many companies make them (often labeled as just 'step drill') but 'Unibit' is a now a trademark of Irwin. Most people call them Unibits the same as we call all adhesive bandages 'Band-Aids'. As far as I know they are still being manufactured at a plant here in Maine - unlike most modern Irwin tools that come from China.
i used to sell Loctite, I had some training directly from them, the primer they sell for the loctite thread locker we tested was amazing. we tested expired red loctite with 3/8 nut and bolt and just loosely put the nut on the end of the bolt. we had 2 sets, one we used primer and one we did not. the primer one was set in 30-45 seconds to the point where you could not turn the nut by hand, and the one without primer was nowhere near being set 8 hours later when our day was done. worth a try in my books. especially if time is a factor.
Great video, love the engines you build. The leaking air you are talking about, have you ever thought about recessing an O-ring to act as a seal or do you think it would deteriorate too quickly. interested in your opinion. Thank you for sharing your videos, very enjoyable.
I saw an interesting way to scribe lines recently. If you have a height gage scribe with a flat bottom, you can remove the scribe (or make one from a HSS tool bit or something) and hold it on top of a gage block to precisely scribe lines. I've never tried it but it might be faster or easier in some situations.
![Rare Antique Fractal Vise [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QBeOgGt_oWU/mqdefault.jpg)
I enjoyed the visit with you today. Do not let trolls or critics bother you. Delete the comments you do not like it is your channel after all. Thanks for the video.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Thanks
I'm Enjoying the series, and especially "Tubalcain's related information."
+Wide Vision Metal Fab Thanks
+mrpete222 Hi Lyle, sorry UA-cam will not me do any new posts, only reply to others. So my reason for getting onto you is about you drilling brass. You state hang onto the work as it will grab ! Not if you back off the cutting edge with 3 or 4 strokes of an oilstone. And that only applies to hard brass, bronze, gunmetal and certain plastics. Your sheet brass is bend-able, which means it is what is called half hard brass, a fully sharp drill will not grab and the swarf will come off as curls. Standard brass stock, the swarf come out in chips. I would hope that you could clarify this in one of your upcoming videos, instead of keep repeating "Hang onto the work, it may grab", there is no need for it to grab. As you are perhaps introducing new comers to engineering, every 'Old Timers' tips and tricks of the trade should be passed on. Are you going to steam these, or only compressed air ? If steam, then you are still mixing water, brass and aluminium and you will get an electrolytic action and the piston will eventually corrode and seize up. Keep up the good work and do not worry about trolls or thumbs down merchants.
+Dave Ticehurst Thanks Dave. I have heard that before, and need to try it & show it. I just don't use brass all that often. I also intend to make a video on drilling platic to avoid grabbing. Just air, no steam.
As usual - GREAT STUFF! Thank you for another great instructional video. The added bits are ALWAYS appreciated as they can make the largest differeance at times! Look forward to the rest of the series!
+CarbonManTX Thanks
thank you Sir. enjoying this series.
+ELSDP-45 Great
"...more information whether you like it or not". Pass on the knowledge, that's the good stuff!
+The Current Source Thanks for watching.
Tubalcain, from one 72 year old shop teacher to anotherI really like how you give alternatives to do things. I did the same thing when I taught. Great videos. Have a Happy New Year. Brian
+Brian Hostak Kindred spirits-- Thanks for watching.
The related information is one third the reason i am here! ;-) Happy New Year! I really enjoy your oration. Thankyou
+troytree guy Thanks for watching.
Sir, I have only discovered your videos lately, your skill and concise adn practical teaching style are exceptional. You have rekindled my interest in machining after 20 years. Thank you so much. If I can only stop watching and get into the workshop. Happy New Year.
+Uncle Ian Welcome aboard--you have 600 videos to watch, Subscribe & stay with me
What a great way to start the new year, a Tubalcain video! Mr. Pete I hope and pray you have a healthy and happy new year. Keep up the good work on all of the different kinds of video you do.
+stefanoworx Thanks
cant wait for part 5.. thanks for sharing sir....
+Kevin Willis soon
Great series, Since your already into soldering, i would have suggested soldering the crank disk and crank pin.
Good job as always .Glad to be back in class on the front row for2016
+Lewis Mcclain Thanks for watching.
a most enjoyable video, thank you.
Gary
+Gary Morris Thanks
Thank you for a great video. I've been gathering materials as you progress. Ready to re-run video 1 to start. Looking forward to spending 2016 with you.
+Roy Lucas Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed .. Drill hog has those bits with a lifetime USA return .. I use them and broke one and was sent a new one without retuning the broken one .. Good company !!
+ShawnMrFixit I need to buy one
They have bits for about any drilling needs !
Really enjoying this series. Going to build one myself. Thanks for all your videos! Happy New Year!
+Michael Newbury Thanks
Very good,Thank you.
Happy New Year, Mr. Pete! Thanks for all the vids.
+BluetoothSensei Thanks
Thanks another great video. Happy New Year!!!
+Max Adona Thanks for watching
You need a flycutter handy for those small facing cuts. I love the look of a fly cut surface versus endmill paths
+bubster1981 Yes-but what a mess
Great series Mr Pete. I will be following this guide for my first real project on my Hercus 9 inch as soon as my garage is complete. Do you have any recommendations for used mill drills that are decent quality? Regards from Melbourne Australia.
+Glenn van den Berg Thanks for watching--don'y know much about mill/drills
Just a little trivia about your Christmas tree bit: It was invented in 1971 by a guy named Harry Oakes and sold as 'Unibit' until the patent expired. Now many companies make them (often labeled as just 'step drill') but 'Unibit' is a now a trademark of Irwin. Most people call them Unibits the same as we call all adhesive bandages 'Band-Aids'.
As far as I know they are still being manufactured at a plant here in Maine - unlike most modern Irwin tools that come from China.
+TheOtherBill Thats good to know info-thanks
i used to sell Loctite, I had some training directly from them, the primer they sell for the loctite thread locker we tested was amazing. we tested expired red loctite with 3/8 nut and bolt and just loosely put the nut on the end of the bolt. we had 2 sets, one we used primer and one we did not. the primer one was set in 30-45 seconds to the point where you could not turn the nut by hand, and the one without primer was nowhere near being set 8 hours later when our day was done. worth a try in my books. especially if time is a factor.
+24Hobbes24 I need to run a test like that-Thank you for watching.
+mrpete222 thank you for the videos! the projects are awesome! makes me wish I had a machine shop at home.
Great video, love the engines you build. The leaking air you are talking about, have you ever thought about recessing an O-ring to act as a seal or do you think it would deteriorate too quickly. interested in your opinion. Thank you for sharing your videos, very enjoyable.
+scott isaacs Thanks
enjoyed
+Andy Coakes Thanks
I saw an interesting way to scribe lines recently. If you have a height gage scribe with a flat bottom, you can remove the scribe (or make one from a HSS tool bit or something) and hold it on top of a gage block to precisely scribe lines. I've never tried it but it might be faster or easier in some situations.
+fall22123 Yes--I think they make a gage block scriber for that purpose
Mr Pete Enjoying this series have you made any double acting spool valve engines
+Oscar Flores not yet
Moving right along! Thank you..... Take care... :o) O,,,
+Opinionator52 Thanks for watching.
HiSir, I like/enjoy your films greatly but what sparked your patriotism ?
+Jos Helmer Thanks for watching.freedom
Three times tougher than what??
+Mark Mossinghoff False claim
Hey don't talk to mr.greenie like that
+Olive O'hare Thanks for watching