Thanks for another excellent video. I've been in a chemistry lab now for 44 years, my suggestion. When weighing out chemicals tare a folded piece of paper on the balance, place the chemical on the paper, no mess.
@@BillSchwab you’re welcome, just getting started with some of these processes and your channel has been a huge help and an inspiration. I have worked with cyanotypes before but most of my experience is making silver gelatin prints in a traditional darkroom. Based in Johannesburg South Africa 🇿🇦
Pop a shot of hydrogen peroxide in a bath after developing. Instant oxidation and blueing of the print. Your videos have been fantastic in breaking down all of the alt process that you've showcased!
Thank you, sir! Good input as well. I was going to throw that in there, but I thought it might be a good little addition to a future video. Thanks for watching him for your kind comments!
Hi Bill, I am really enjoying your channel, very informative. I am exploring the world of the Cyanotype and the info you provide has been invaluable. I have a query regarding paper! I have purchased the Hahnemühle paper but because it is rather expensive I am reluctant to use it on test prints. Does the paper itself have a direct effect on base point exposure and final result? Can I use something like Canson watercolor paper for testing and Hahnemühle for finals? Thanks again for the info! -Gerry
Thank you for watching! Yes, this will be a much faster printing time in the new box. I’ll do some experiments when I get around to it. Thank you again!
Hi Gary. Carbon is not one I’ve done on my own, but I’ve had Sandy King up here to teach a workshop in it in the past. I’m thinking in the future on collaborating with some people when things start to get back to some sense of normal. That way I can bring you things that I don’t do Or that others do much better. I hope you’ll stay tuned. I hope to take my studio visits into the real world sometime in the not too distant future.
Hi Klaus! Thank you! Definitely give it a try! I used a digital negative on this one, but really have any size negative would do. Be careful with your originals though. Make sure your emulsion is good and dry so you don’t damage your negative.
Great tutorial, thank you!
Thanks for another excellent video. I've been in a chemistry lab now for 44 years, my suggestion. When weighing out chemicals tare a folded piece of paper on the balance, place the chemical on the paper, no mess.
The best cyanotype video I've seen! :) thankyou!
This is a great photography channel. I hope this channel gets bigger. I liked the platinum and palladium videos.
Yes!
Thank you!! Much more to come. Please tell a friend!
My favorite UA-cam channel...thanks Bill!
Wow!! Thank YOU, Glenn!
@@BillSchwab you’re welcome, just getting started with some of these processes and your channel has been a huge help and an inspiration. I have worked with cyanotypes before but most of my experience is making silver gelatin prints in a traditional darkroom. Based in Johannesburg South Africa 🇿🇦
So much of your information is new to me.....enjoyed...best, ellen streger
Thanks again Bill for a great instructional video. Very timely in my case :)
Excellent, Steve! Coming soon is cyano over Palladium. I wanted to get to the Cyanotypes first.
Thanks very much. I really appreciate the detailed explanations in your videos.
Pop a shot of hydrogen peroxide in a bath after developing. Instant oxidation and blueing of the print. Your videos have been fantastic in breaking down all of the alt process that you've showcased!
Thank you, sir! Good input as well. I was going to throw that in there, but I thought it might be a good little addition to a future video. Thanks for watching him for your kind comments!
Or develop it in vinegar for more shadow detail.
You really should explain that potassium ferricyanide and potassium ferrocyanide are completely different.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don’t think it’s necessary.
Hi Bill,
I am really enjoying your channel, very informative. I am exploring the world of the Cyanotype and the info you provide has been invaluable. I have a query regarding paper!
I have purchased the Hahnemühle paper but because it is rather expensive I am reluctant to use it on test prints. Does the paper itself have a direct effect on base point exposure and final result? Can I use something like Canson watercolor paper for testing and Hahnemühle for finals?
Thanks again for the info!
-Gerry
Thank you so much for sharing this. In your new light box, would this be done in a few minutes?
Thank you for watching! Yes, this will be a much faster printing time in the new box. I’ll do some experiments when I get around to it. Thank you again!
Thanks for the videos Bill. Will you be doing carbon printing in the future?
Hi Gary. Carbon is not one I’ve done on my own, but I’ve had Sandy King up here to teach a workshop in it in the past. I’m thinking in the future on collaborating with some people when things start to get back to some sense of normal. That way I can bring you things that I don’t do Or that others do much better. I hope you’ll stay tuned. I hope to take my studio visits into the real world sometime in the not too distant future.
@@BillSchwab Thanks Bill I do have Sandy's Book on Carbon, Thanks anyhow, keep the videos coming 👍
Sandy is definitely the guy. Thank you, Gary! @@Puresniper1000
Awesome, really tempted to try it. What negative size did you use? 4x5 or 5x7?
Hi Klaus! Thank you! Definitely give it a try! I used a digital negative on this one, but really have any size negative would do. Be careful with your originals though. Make sure your emulsion is good and dry so you don’t damage your negative.
That is a good hint. Thank you.
How long can you store your paper after you coat it, one day, week, or?
👍💚