I'm wondering why you would not demonstrate that the splitter would still split hardwood after reducing the maximum pump pressure.. How would the valve get out of adjustment to start with?
Can you educate me on log splitters. Finally purchased me a log splitter, after years of busting wood the old fashioned manual way. It is a Champion 27ton splitter from Home Depot. I used it the other day and it worked great…..especially on my saving my back. There was some big logs ( 28” + in diameter.) It split some no problem. Others had some knots or seemed to be very wet in the log [per water squeezing out of log at wedge point of contact.) This would greatly slow down or even stop the hydraulic wedge from continuing through the log. Here is where I need education: Is this harmful to the pump or motor? I was afraid to let it continue to try and split those logs, so when it bogged way down like that…. I would quickly reverse the wedge and just work on other logs. Thank you for any help in teaching me.
From my recent experience with my splitter,before you do anything check to see if dirtdobbers have plugged up the exhaust.Easiest first step and may save a lot of work.
The mud dauber (or dirt dauber) is a wasp that makes it's nest from mud. Sometimes, if a piece of machine is sitting for awhile, those wasps will begin to build a mud nest in the muffler. If the muffler is clogged, it will cause issues with the engine running properly. I had an issue with a 2 stroke trimmer that wouldn't run right. After replacing the carb and everything else I could think of (to no avail), I finally found that mud in the muffler holes were causing all the trouble. Engines need good IN-FLow and good OUT-Flow. @@rottiejakeluke
I have a similar Huskee 22 ton with a 6.5 hp engine. It does not have the brass valve nut you show. Is there any other way to adjust the hydraulic fluid flow?
Thanks for this! I have the same splitter and had a heck of a time starting it after sitting for months and a big cold snap. Should I buy some starting fluid? if so where do I spray it? Thanks!
Sometimes a quick shot of starting fluid will bring things back to life. Remove the air filter and give a quick shot directly into the carburetor. Thanks for watching.
Do you know what the actual function is of the screw? I agree it made a difference, buy not knowing what the screw does and not knowing why it would have changed over time, I am concerned. Could it have been a bandaid rather than a fix? Maybe the problem really is due to dirty oil? Thank Yusuf.
The screw opens or closes a bypass. That allows the hydraulic oil to continue flowing even when the ram is not being used. If it is not open enough, the engine can't overcome the pressure and kills the engine. If it's open too much, there won't be enough pressure to move the ram.
HI, I AM INSTALLING A NEW CARB, PRIMER BULB, GASKETS, ETC. A NEW GAS LINE. MY QUESTION IS WHICH WAY DOES THE NEW FUEL FILTER FACE... TOWARD THE CARB OR TOWARD THE GAS TANK? THANKS, JOHN
Chainsaws can run much higher than 13k, and that tach will run right up there with them. Great tips on the pump settings and the engine. Have a great week.
I bought off the internet somewhere a few years ago. I don't remember where. They are available in many places. No reflective strip required. It senses the pulse of electricity from the coil.
It is the unloading valve. Its purpose is to bypass the output of the large gear set in the pump back to the input when system pressure begins to build. It is similar to the unloading valve on a pressure washer.
No wonder my cylinder speed increased when I went to a new engine. Going from 3,100 to 3,600 rpms definitely moves more fluid in less time. Granted things heat up faster on a hot day. As the oil tank is spec for the lower speed.
I believe there is another bypass valve located on the control valve that allows it to return to tank when not in forward or retract. If it’s set too high it will heat the oil up. The other adjustment on the control valve is for the retract detent,it holds the valve in retract position for you until it’s fully retracted.
Finally...a video that I think will actually help me...or at least I hope. I have the exact same splitter. Today, it all the sudden stopped splitting. When the wedge makes contact with the wood the ram won't go any further. The engine bogs a little but doesn't stall. Also, when I retract the ram all the way back,, the engine bogs again and the handle won't pop back into neutral. I wonder if this adjustment might be my issue?
@@RealManSkills Well, such is my luck. Apparently I have the only control valve and hydraulic pump, on the planet, without adjustment screws. I guess it's back to banging my head against the wall.
@@RealManSkills nope... engine just cuts off... doesn't putter out... like someone just flicked a switch... It's my elderly widowed neighbors splitter... so when she 1st described it, I assumed it was the carburetor until I saw it in action
I went ahead and replaced the spark plug and changed the oil in it... even though both seemed fine... after showing my brother a video of it... he suggested that something might be going on with the sparkplug... like it's not getting enough of a spark or something is just killing it... but after watching this video, I'm wondering if the hydraulic pump might be doing something weird... idk... I've never messed with a splitter before, so I gotta do some research
@@RealManSkills I wish I could share the video I have of it... But I think you're right about it, probably being the pump... the motor runs fine and won't cut off if you leave it idling... but after cutting 2-4 logs, the motor just shuts off... I'll come back and post updates, so hopefully it can help someone else who might have the same issue
And I think I fixed it, lol... turned out to be a loose bolt on the carburetor bowl leaking fuel... just happened to allow enough fuel to go thru while idling, but underload it would just quit
Thanks for the valuable advice. Fixed me up. You should name your videos “No BS just facts. “
Happy to help! Thanks for watching! No BS
Thank you for this! I was able to finish splitting rounds for firewood 🙏🏼 I was stacking it on the porch as the rain started today
Thank you for watching! Happy to help!
I'm wondering why you would not demonstrate that the splitter would still split hardwood after reducing the maximum pump pressure.. How would the valve get out of adjustment to start with?
Can you educate me on log splitters. Finally purchased me a log splitter, after years of busting wood the old fashioned manual way. It is a Champion 27ton splitter from Home Depot. I used it the other day and it worked great…..especially on my saving my back. There was some big logs ( 28” + in diameter.) It split some no problem. Others had some knots or seemed to be very wet in the log [per water squeezing out of log at wedge point of contact.) This would greatly slow down or even stop the hydraulic wedge from continuing through the log. Here is where I need education: Is this harmful to the pump or motor? I was afraid to let it continue to try and split those logs, so when it bogged way down like that…. I would quickly reverse the wedge and just work on other logs. Thank you for any help in teaching me.
No harm to the engine or pump trying to push through those large pieces. Try to take smaller bites with those big ones.
Thank you so much 👍
Just back up and rotate the log and try again.
Sometimes you have to find the sweet spot in the log if it has a lot of knots.
From my recent experience with my splitter,before you do anything check to see if dirtdobbers have plugged up the exhaust.Easiest first step and may save a lot of work.
That's happened to me!
@@RealManSkillswhat is a dirt robber? Where do they occur and how did you clean. I’d like to know to be proactive..
The mud dauber (or dirt dauber) is a wasp that makes it's nest from mud. Sometimes, if a piece of machine is sitting for awhile, those wasps will begin to build a mud nest in the muffler. If the muffler is clogged, it will cause issues with the engine running properly. I had an issue with a 2 stroke trimmer that wouldn't run right. After replacing the carb and everything else I could think of (to no avail), I finally found that mud in the muffler holes were causing all the trouble. Engines need good IN-FLow and good OUT-Flow. @@rottiejakeluke
dirtdobbers..?????????
@@rottiejakeluke a lot easier to say ...check the exhaust for blockage....ya think !!
I have a similar Huskee 22 ton with a 6.5 hp engine. It does not have the brass valve nut you show. Is there any other way to adjust the hydraulic fluid flow?
@@danbyam5346 this is the only way that I know. Let me know if you figure it out.
Thanks for this! I have the same splitter and had a heck of a time starting it after sitting for months and a big cold snap. Should I buy some starting fluid? if so where do I spray it? Thanks!
Sometimes a quick shot of starting fluid will bring things back to life. Remove the air filter and give a quick shot directly into the carburetor. Thanks for watching.
Thank you sir my uncles wood splitter was doing the same thing now I know I can fix it .
Do you know what the actual function is of the screw? I agree it made a difference, buy not knowing what the screw does and not knowing why it would have changed over time, I am concerned. Could it have been a bandaid rather than a fix? Maybe the problem really is due to dirty oil? Thank Yusuf.
The screw opens or closes a bypass. That allows the hydraulic oil to continue flowing even when the ram is not being used. If it is not open enough, the engine can't overcome the pressure and kills the engine. If it's open too much, there won't be enough pressure to move the ram.
Thanks for the video. This helped me with a used NorthStar 37 Ton splitter that I bought used. what is that part called?
That is the hydraulic pump. Thanks for watching.
@@RealManSkills I have mine turned 4 rounds
Great video and explanation thank you sir!
Thanks for watching!
HI, I AM INSTALLING A NEW CARB, PRIMER BULB, GASKETS, ETC. A NEW GAS LINE. MY QUESTION IS WHICH WAY DOES THE NEW FUEL FILTER FACE... TOWARD THE CARB OR TOWARD THE GAS TANK? THANKS, JOHN
Sometimes, the filter will have an arrow on it to show. If there is no arrow, I don't think it matters.
@@RealManSkills OK... THANKS.... SEEMS TO ME IT SHOULD MAKE NO DIFFERENCE- JOHN
I like that tach, as much as I work on all sorts of engines I'm going to have to invest in one of those!
I bought it because it also works with chainsaws and other 2 stroke stuff that can get up to 13,000 rpms or more. Thanks for watching!
Chainsaws can run much higher than 13k, and that tach will run right up there with them.
Great tips on the pump settings and the engine.
Have a great week.
Where did you buy that digital tachometer also does it require a reflective strip
I bought off the internet somewhere a few years ago. I don't remember where. They are available in many places. No reflective strip required. It senses the pulse of electricity from the coil.
My splitter has a delay before it will split. It's as though it has to build up pressure before it will split. The engine does not stall. Suggestions?
Maybe the pump is failing. I can't say that I've ever seen that.
Thank you - should have looked up your video before pulling the carb cover and blowing brake cleaner in there!
Thank you for watching. Happy to help!
What is that valve called?
It is a part of the pump. I believe that it is a bypass valve.
It is the unloading valve. Its purpose is to bypass the output of the large gear set in the pump back to the input when system pressure begins to build. It is similar to the unloading valve on a pressure washer.
I tried this I am out 3 1/2 turns and it made no difference. It stalls out on the out stoke and when it his the retract. Any ideas?
It may be an engine issue. Sounds like the engine lacks power. Just guessing.
No wonder my cylinder speed increased when I went to a new engine.
Going from 3,100 to 3,600 rpms definitely moves more fluid in less time.
Granted things heat up faster on a hot day. As the oil tank is spec for the lower speed.
Thanks for watching!
I believe there is another bypass valve located on the control valve that allows it to return to tank when not in forward or retract. If it’s set too high it will heat the oil up. The other adjustment on the control valve is for the retract detent,it holds the valve in retract position for you until it’s fully retracted.
Can you do a video on bleeding air from log splitter hydraulics
I don't have a log splitter. Sorry.
What was the tool to read the rpm and where do you buy it?
That was the "DTI 20K". I bought it from ebay or amazon. Thanks for watching.
Finally...a video that I think will actually help me...or at least I hope. I have the exact same splitter. Today, it all the sudden stopped splitting. When the wedge makes contact with the wood the ram won't go any further. The engine bogs a little but doesn't stall. Also, when I retract the ram all the way back,, the engine bogs again and the handle won't pop back into neutral. I wonder if this adjustment might be my issue?
Hope it works. Easy enough to try. Thanks for watching!
@@RealManSkills Well, such is my luck. Apparently I have the only control valve and hydraulic pump, on the planet, without adjustment screws. I guess it's back to banging my head against the wall.
@@brianwilson8119 Bummer
I have something similar going on... but instead of stalling it just cuts off after splitting 2 or 3 logs... like someone just flipped a switch
Engine still running? Pump may be bad. Easy to replace.
@@RealManSkills nope... engine just cuts off... doesn't putter out... like someone just flicked a switch... It's my elderly widowed neighbors splitter... so when she 1st described it, I assumed it was the carburetor until I saw it in action
I went ahead and replaced the spark plug and changed the oil in it... even though both seemed fine... after showing my brother a video of it... he suggested that something might be going on with the sparkplug... like it's not getting enough of a spark or something is just killing it... but after watching this video, I'm wondering if the hydraulic pump might be doing something weird... idk... I've never messed with a splitter before, so I gotta do some research
@@RealManSkills I wish I could share the video I have of it... But I think you're right about it, probably being the pump... the motor runs fine and won't cut off if you leave it idling... but after cutting 2-4 logs, the motor just shuts off... I'll come back and post updates, so hopefully it can help someone else who might have the same issue
And I think I fixed it, lol... turned out to be a loose bolt on the carburetor bowl leaking fuel... just happened to allow enough fuel to go thru while idling, but underload it would just quit
Great info
Thanks for watching!
I have the 28 ton but w the Honda 190 engine
I like Honda engines! Thanks for watching!
ADD ???