You did a good job. 2 things I recommend you start doing though... #1 before you put your new rotors on put anti seize on the hub surface so the rotors come off easy next time. #2 under your stainless hardware that the pads slide on you need to remove the hardware and look for rust. I take my caliper brackets to the wire wheel on the bench grinder first then use a file to remove what it misses. Spray fluid film on the surface before reinstalling the old or new hardware (I prefer to replace the hardware). Great job bedding in the new brake pads! Most don’t know about that!
I have a 2014 RX350 which everything should be the same. All your videos are really helpful for me since I am doing my own maintenance also. Keep it up, thank you!
Yes the 2010-2015 are almost the same. Glad the videos are helpful! I just got a 2016 so I'm going to be starting a new series soon! My son is now driving my 2010.
I have been doing brakes for a while and that was an excellent video in how to do them the right way- don’t try to cut corners follow this man’s instructions and you won’t go wrong. I’ve put off getting a torque wrench cause they are pretty pricy but you talked me into it. Great stuff looking forward to what else you donin that RX. Thanks again!
FYI, the small rubber plug for the rear brakes. They are plugs that cover the accesses hole to adjust the parking brake. You would unplug it and see thru it for the adjusting star nut inside to tighten or loosen the parking brake. Adjustment is done by prying up or down on the star nut with a flat head screw driver or special tool for it.
My 2013 RX has about 80k. I'll be installing aftermarket heavy-duty rotors and pads. I have the towing package and will be towing a pontoon boat. Your video will definitely help me
It’s so crazy, I’m literally about to replace my Lexus rx350 with almost 120K miles too. However, I replaced the brakes at 70K. I also saw your video of front and rear shocks and struts. I’m doing it all in one go.
Nice, glad it helped. My front struts are still going strong, there's no need to replace them if they're not worn out or leaking. I only did the rear because they were leaking.
Thanks again for the great videos. I've now replaced rotors and pads on front and rear, rear shocks and upper shock brackets, the oil cooler pipe ( sucked) front wheel bearing/suspension knuckle, PCV valve, and rear swaybar bushings ( relatively easy)...next going to tackle replacing front calipers, and after doing the rotors it doesn't appear to be that tough. Owned the car for about a year, driven about 15k miles, and it still amazes me how quiet and smooth it runs, even at 180k. The V6 averages 21mpg, and with 276hp it's acceleration is night and day compared to the Hyundai 4 cyl I moved out of...better mileage and more power don't usually go together! Question: the rear 'spoiler' that covers the rear wiper seems to leak badly directly in the center, allowing water to spill into the interior cargo area in back. Lucky the carpeted mat has rubber backing or this could be a serious issue...Even hand washing it leaks inside...would you replace the spoiler? It appears maybe it's missing some weather stripping to allow this substantial leak...
That sounds like the rubber seal is either cracked or not all the way on in order to create a seal. When you have the door all the way open, look behind there and you should see the issue.
Thanks for the video! I suggest you should clean the sliding pin first before applying fresh lube, also apply anti seize on the axle before installing a new brake rotor so it is easy for removal in the futrue. :>
Great video, I like how you correctly apply proper torque setting too. One thing though...that stuff you applied to your caliper sliding pins is strictly for the back plates of your pads and upper and lower clips. You should get that out of those sliding pins asap. Toyota has has some called "Toyota rubber grease". It's specifically made for the sliding pins, and will not eat away the rubber boots
that small rear plug is there to adjust the parking brake. You don’t need to use hammer or screw to force the rotor out. You need to put small rear plug in 6 and half o’clock position for the left side wheel and 5 and half o’clock position for right side wheel. Then you would be able to see a star wheel using phone video camera with flash light. Using a flat head screw driver you can turn that wheel downwards, it will release the rotor and you can simply pull it out with one hand.
@@CarolinaCowboys But put more grease on those caliber pins, god dang LOL good job! Amazing that these pads and rotors last 100K, must be 90% highway, no way you drive in city roads often and and they can last more than 40-50K. Also those hardware clips that you have to re-use, they called fitting kit. So there are 4 components to order if you want all new: pad set, shim kit, fitting kit and rotor. Normally you only need pad kit and re-use the other 3 components, then on the next job you replace all 4, if you see what I mean
Good video. You should’ve put some anti-seize on the wheel hub to prevent the stuck brake disc and put some grease on end tips of the brake pads for easy sliding. Also you can turn your front wheel left/right for easy brake bolts access.
do you need to have parking brake on before you lift the car and work on the brakes, im pretty new and some video suggested parking brake may get in the way of checking the rotor from moving properly with the axle
I always have the parking brake on when I'm lifting the front and off when I'm lifting the rear. But then you want to put a block under the front tire to make sure it doesn't roll.
@carolinacowboys did you have your tire pressure light start blinking after changing the breaks? Mine has and shows code C1AEC, I’m hoping reinitializing the TPMS will solve it but figured I’d ask.
I didn't run into that, but you can try holding that reset button down to reinitialize, however you may have some bad TPMS sensory batteries, I recently had to replace all 4 TPMS sensors because the batteries inside were drained.
I know Im a couple of years late but great instructional video. Thank you for your time and effort in making this. I have a question though. Would this same process work on a 2010 ES 350? Thanks.
@@CarolinaCowboys Thank you for your response. Im gong to try to change my brakes sometime this coming week and I plan on following your video step by step. I can't thank you enough for this instructional video. Take care.
I have a 2011 RX350 with 60,000 miles. Shop I go to says pads are getting thin and recommends replacing them. Is it necessary or recommended to replace the rotors at the same time or can I get away with just replacing the pads?
It really depends on the thickness of your rotors. In my opinion replacing both pads and rotors would be more beneficial. This allows maximum brake performance and will save you money in the long run as it would have same wear time.
How much are the toyota brake pads? Akebono sells oem ones as well. And wanted to see if the price difference is big enough to go with a specific option. Also i don't know where you live but the wheel well area looks immaculate. Im from ontario canada and from the salt, there is always a layer of rust on everything. Im currently in arizona and cars here are clean.
Yeah there's going to be a huge difference in cars from where you are. I'm in North Carolina where we just get rain and maybe snow once a year! I always put links to the parts I order in the description of the video so you can check out the prices. I would always recommend sticking with OEM on these components.
Do you have new links to the full kit? I followed the link and it wasn’t available. Also did the same thing on the last link. Thank you for the video. I’m replacing both pads and rotors on my 2013 Lexus RX350 F Sport
Hey thanks for letting me know, I updated all the links. You can get the full front kit and the full rear kit with the links in the description, or just the pads. I couldn't find anyone selling both kits in one.
Awesome video, thank you. The Amazon link of the front shows it is for ES350, and the seller confirms in the Q&A that it only fits 2020-2015 ES350. Is it interchangeable with RX350 or it is a wrong link?
Thanks for your video. Really appreciate it. How did you determine the back bolts are 80 ft lbs? I have been trying to find everywhere and couldn't find out. Also, a little tip for you when trying to push the brake piston back, you can use the old brake pads and a "C-Clamp" to push them back.
Excellent! I have only 50,000 miles on my lexus 2015 but the dealer wants to change the pads and resurface the rotors at the tune of $700, you got 120000 out of yours what do you think? What kind of measurement should I look for in the wear of the pads and the disks before I replace them and How much did you pay for the parts and where did you get them? Thanks again for the Excellent video
Hi, all the parts I use in my videos are in the description for your convenience. Well it depends on your driving habits and if you live in the city. Most of my miles were highway so I wasn't doing alot of braking and therefore the pads lasted much longer. Your dealer should be able to tell you how many mm of pad you have left. You can also look at it. I typically say when the pad is less thick than the back plate it's time to change them. I would also would do the rotors if you have any grooves or warping.
@@CarolinaCowboys All good tips there. Also another one - the snap on clips are wear indicators. Typically, you will get a metal to metal scraping noise if you jack up the vehicle, put it in neutral and release the handbrake to rotate the wheels when the pads are too far gone. Another tip - if you find that one side of the pad pair is worn more than the other - it will always be the one on the sliding pad mount, then you will also find that the lube is dried out causing the slider to not move back to its original position away from the rotor, (which is what causes the premature wear).
I would have to take them off anyway to have them turned, and there's no guarantee they'll be perfectly flat, so I find it better to just swap them both at the same time.
Hey Carolina Cowboys, thank you for this video! I'm about to do my first ever brake job (rear only) and your video will definitely be my guide. But I'm wondering what grease are you using on the brake shims? Thats the only part I'm unsure of in this whole brake job
FYI - Bendix produce brake caliper grease. The smallest quantity is about the size of a family toothpaste tube. More like the quantity a small repair shop would keep in the garage.
Thanks for the prompt reply! I live in the suburbs and it’s busy traffic, lots of braking The dealer said I had approx 3 mm left On the pads, but I have no knowledge of what is supposed to be normal Thanks
Carolina Cowboys - I really appreciate your videos! We just bought a 2010 RX 350 from our next door little old Lady with only 25,000 on it. So I’m hungry for anything I can do myself.
Great videos!!! Just bought a 2010 RX 350, 165k miles, I'd like to do the plugs, coils, brakes, oil changes, etc myself ( we'll see about the audio upgrade...) Do you ALWAYS use Toyota parts? The eBay link for the front rotors is dead btw, and the front pads on Amazon "Genuine Toyota 04465-48150 Front Brake Pad Set" are listed as "do not fit your 2010 Lexus RX 350" on Amazon, just so you are aware. I'd like to get exactly the same parts you're using in this video, hardware and all...also, I have the Carfax report, and it lists a 30,000 mile service performed, 50,000 mile service performed...is there a resource that identifies what is actually included in these maintenance service intervals? Ex: 65k miles, alignment, front/rear brake pads, but nothing in the Carfax about brakes after 65k miles...I plan to do it all anyway so that I know it's been done, but...is this 120,000 mile maintenance YOUR idea, or a Toyota/Lexus interval?
I would say go by the book for maintenance, it's also on their website -www.lexus.com/maintenance. One thing you'll notice is that they never tell you to service the transmission. They're made to never be serviced! If you have a carfax report that shows scheduled maintenance, you can see the corresponding items in the book and that's what they did. It's actually a great thing if you have that, I would never pay for that, but it's good that someone else did. I only have the dealership do my oil change and based on their inspection I will handle the rest myself. Even though it's so expensive to pay them to change the oil, it's worth it for me to have them raise up the vehicle and go over it thoroughly. Then when they tell me my. brakes are wearing out or my shocks are leaking, then I'll do it. Thanks for letting me know about the link, I will fix that!
@@CarolinaCowboys Man, thanks so much for your reply...I've done the air filter ( so easy with your video help!) Once I jacked the rear up ( I used the pinch weld as you suggested first, then used the cross member under the center of the rear...lifts the rear end easily enough to place jack stands under both pinch welds, btw) I discovered a good bit of rust (this was originally an Ohio car), so I'm a little nervous now about replacing the shocks myself, but still going for it...also, I understand you want to have the dealer look at the car while they change the oil, but I've been changing my own oil for many many years and hundreds of thousands of miles through a few vehicles, and I prefer to save that money too...oil change for this RX costs me $70; what does the dealer charge for the oil change? Thanks again for the videos and the reply!
@@backlineguy it’s usually about $100 for an oil change every 10K miles. I always changed my oil myself before I got a Lexus but like I said I’m not inspecting all the things they are going to find.
Do you have to 'bleed' the calipers because sometimes when when push the cylinders in for new pads, air gets into the system that could impair them from working correctly.
If you don't open the system you don't have to bleed them. That said, I typically pay the someone to do a brake system flush because it's supposed to be done every 2 years anyway and that bleeds them.
There's a few things I do differently that would make this a near 100% complete restoration to factory new and help you - 1. Loosen the caliper bleed screw when you are pushing the pistons back in the caliper. There's no grunting, no real work. They gliiiiiiiide back in with ease, PLUS YOU ARE NOT NOT NOT pushing old, nasty brake fluid back into your system. Hook a 1/4" ID hose to the screw and drain this into a milk jug. 2. Take a series of wire brushes/etc (search Amazon for hub cleaning tool) and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the hub mating surface of all rust/etc before putting the new rotors on. Also put on a coat of anti-seize on the hub surface. This prevents rust and makes it easy to take off next time. 3. FLUSH the brake fluid. Flush the brake fluid. It's not that hard and it puts new, fresh fluid in all your lines. 4. Clean those pad holders. Clean the area where the pad ears go with a file. 5. Break the pads in correctly.
The rear rotors have break pads inside as well, I would change them when having rotors dropped. It would be good to change the break fluid, maybe next video?
Never clean anything with brake cleaner on the brake caliper and caliper carrier bracket, before installation. Do not also wire brush the hub and do not put anti-seize on it, before putting the new rotor. That will ensure a good welding by rust next time you try to remove the disk. Also I'd loved to see where the jackstand was put for the forward brake job.
Hi, use the links in the video description and it will show the parts work for 2010-2015 models, you can also enter your model into Amazon and it will tell you if it fits. On the Forum, I always use www.clublexus.com/forums/
Compressing caliper piston like that pushes fluid backwards through abs module. Not good. Always crack open bleeder, so piston can press fluid out instead of backwards through system. Attach a hose to a catch bottle to avoid mess.
Yes I have heard that but I never worry about it. I was planning on having a shop do a full brake system flush after I finished this job to cycle in new clean fluid.
@@CarolinaCowboys yeah, probably not worth it. Cracking bleeder open will probably take 10 sec or more, and a new abs module is probably only like $1,000.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 but then I have to bleed the system which will take at least another 20 minutes and I don’t think I can keep my viewers entertained for that long
@@CarolinaCowboys why would you have to bleed it? Loosen bleeder, push pistons in, fluid goes out bleeder, close bleeder. No additional air is getting in just by opening bleeder. Not to mention, even if it did, is that worth risking a $1,000 abs module (guessing on price might be more). Worse yet, you're teaching others something that could cause damage.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 as soon as you open a bleed screw, air is introduced into the system. The risk of ruining an ABS is very low, there’s a lot more risk in just having contaminates from the caliper pushed into the system, but that’s why I always do a system flush when I’m done
@@CarolinaCowboys wrote: "like is anyone going to be taking this off again 120,000 miles from now?" Some poor soul that couldn't afford a car. I think your RX305 can go up to 240K miles 🙂
Not really sure that is a proper break in process, and you could've also pumped the brakes after each side was finished so you don't have to worry about the fluid level, also could've used the old brake pad to compress the front pistons evenly. I personally start with prying on the caliper while it's still mounted to push in the pistons
This is not a bad video, but you should re-do it as there are so many items you missed or glossed over. 1. the small rubber plug on the rear brakes is for adjusting the “star wheel” on the parking brake. There’s a simple tool for that or you may just use a screwdriver to back off the parking brake shoes before trying to pull off the rear drum/rotors. Don’t say you “don’t know what it’s for” as these are well designed and built cars and nothing is there without a purpose. 2. There is a really simple tool for pushing the slave cylinders back in and available at any parts store. Squeezing them back in or using C-clamps is lame, you don’t want to be that guy. 3. The old lubricant on the slider pins is only half the problem. You need to also clean out the bores with a “bore brush” or use a gun cleaning brush. 4. The little stainless clips on the ends of the new brake pads have a lot of thought behind them and there is a proper way they go back in. 5. Did you notice the pins are different? One has a rubber ring, the other doesn’t. Please re-do this video and address all the items for a brake job, then you will get more “likes”
I was wondering if you watch the Car Care Nut on You Tube he is a master technician for Toyota and Lexus, and has a number of videos that are very informative . He does a step by step procedures about Toyota and Lexus.
amassing part is how American Replacing unnecessary parts ,like Rotors..there was NOTHING wrong with that rotor, i just checked my 177k miles Lexus -- Nothing wrong , had Explorer at 210k miles-- nothing wrong with rotors . Unles it has Groves due to metal to metal damage-- there is no Reason to replace them at 200k,, Ohh right may be you driving in Sahara
![What My Fiancé Thinks Of My Super Car Project [Unlocked]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9w8vP0zQ3oQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video! I really appreciate the amount of detail, narration, and the great filming and lighting quality. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You did a good job. 2 things I recommend you start doing though... #1 before you put your new rotors on put anti seize on the hub surface so the rotors come off easy next time. #2 under your stainless hardware that the pads slide on you need to remove the hardware and look for rust. I take my caliper brackets to the wire wheel on the bench grinder first then use a file to remove what it misses. Spray fluid film on the surface before reinstalling the old or new hardware (I prefer to replace the hardware). Great job bedding in the new brake pads! Most don’t know about that!
All good points, thanks!
What is anti seize?
@@westbay5858 to seize or not to seize, that is the question
next time is when?? at 500k miles :-)))) very funny
with DemonsRats in power we gonna end up ig Globalize crap and electric cars
I have a 2014 RX350 which everything should be the same. All your videos are really helpful for me since I am doing my own maintenance also. Keep it up, thank you!
Yes the 2010-2015 are almost the same. Glad the videos are helpful! I just got a 2016 so I'm going to be starting a new series soon! My son is now driving my 2010.
I have been doing brakes for a while and that was an excellent video in how to do them the right way- don’t try to cut corners follow this man’s instructions and you won’t go wrong. I’ve put off getting a torque wrench cause they are pretty pricy but you talked me into it. Great stuff looking forward to what else you donin that RX. Thanks again!
I appreciate it!
FYI, the small rubber plug for the rear brakes. They are plugs that cover the accesses hole to adjust the parking brake. You would unplug it and see thru it for the adjusting star nut inside to tighten or loosen the parking brake. Adjustment is done by prying up or down on the star nut with a flat head screw driver or special tool for it.
Thanks!
Came here to say thanks for the video and you're helping other RX350 owners out there
I appreciate you!
My 2013 RX has about 80k. I'll be installing aftermarket heavy-duty rotors and pads. I have the towing package and will be towing a pontoon boat.
Your video will definitely help me
Awesome! I didn't know it could pull something that big!
It’s so crazy, I’m literally about to replace my Lexus rx350 with almost 120K miles too. However, I replaced the brakes at 70K. I also saw your video of front and rear shocks and struts. I’m doing it all in one go.
Nice, glad it helped. My front struts are still going strong, there's no need to replace them if they're not worn out or leaking. I only did the rear because they were leaking.
Thanks again for the great videos. I've now replaced rotors and pads on front and rear, rear shocks and upper shock brackets, the oil cooler pipe ( sucked) front wheel bearing/suspension knuckle, PCV valve, and rear swaybar bushings ( relatively easy)...next going to tackle replacing front calipers, and after doing the rotors it doesn't appear to be that tough. Owned the car for about a year, driven about 15k miles, and it still amazes me how quiet and smooth it runs, even at 180k. The V6 averages 21mpg, and with 276hp it's acceleration is night and day compared to the Hyundai 4 cyl I moved out of...better mileage and more power don't usually go together!
Question: the rear 'spoiler' that covers the rear wiper seems to leak badly directly in the center, allowing water to spill into the interior cargo area in back. Lucky the carpeted mat has rubber backing or this could be a serious issue...Even hand washing it leaks inside...would you replace the spoiler? It appears maybe it's missing some weather stripping to allow this substantial leak...
That sounds like the rubber seal is either cracked or not all the way on in order to create a seal. When you have the door all the way open, look behind there and you should see the issue.
Good to see father and son bonding.
They're not really interested as teenagers now
Thanks for the video! I suggest you should clean the sliding pin first before applying fresh lube, also apply anti seize on the axle before installing a new brake rotor so it is easy for removal in the futrue. :>
Good tip!
How do you clean the sliding pin?
Great video, I like how you correctly apply proper torque setting too. One thing though...that stuff you applied to your caliper sliding pins is strictly for the back plates of your pads and upper and lower clips. You should get that out of those sliding pins asap. Toyota has has some called "Toyota rubber grease". It's specifically made for the sliding pins, and will not eat away the rubber boots
Good tip!
Great job explaining and showing beginning to end brake job.
Thanks! 👍
that small rear plug is there to adjust the parking brake. You don’t need to use hammer or screw to force the rotor out. You need to put small rear plug in 6 and half o’clock position for the left side wheel and 5 and half o’clock position for right side wheel. Then you would be able to see a star wheel using phone video camera with flash light. Using a flat head screw driver you can turn that wheel downwards, it will release the rotor and you can simply pull it out with one hand.
Thanks for the tip!
what do you mean turn the wheel downwards? are you saying that I do not need that small screw to force the rotor out? can you please help?
This, is how you do a brake jobs properly, from OEM parts, proper torqued bolts and nuts, greasing and lubicating, good job.
Thank you!
@@CarolinaCowboys But put more grease on those caliber pins, god dang LOL good job! Amazing that these pads and rotors last 100K, must be 90% highway, no way you drive in city roads often and and they can last more than 40-50K. Also those hardware clips that you have to re-use, they called fitting kit. So there are 4 components to order if you want all new: pad set, shim kit, fitting kit and rotor. Normally you only need pad kit and re-use the other 3 components, then on the next job you replace all 4, if you see what I mean
Nice video. Wearing your steel-toed flip-flops is a nice touch 👍
It's kindof a signature thing on my videos now that I've done so many. :-)
Great informative video. Well done on the editing also. I'm subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you for all the information .
I have the RX 450h with air suspension.
Can i jackup it like a regular car ??
Or should i keep in mind anything??
Yes I believe you can jack it up at the specified joints on the frame
Great video! You made it look so easy. What sized sockets did you use to take out the bolts.
Thanks! The bolt sizes vary but probably a 14mm on the caliper.
Good video. You should’ve put some anti-seize on the wheel hub to prevent the stuck brake disc and put some grease on end tips of the brake pads for easy sliding. Also you can turn your front wheel left/right for easy brake bolts access.
The rubber plug of the *rear* rotors are there to prevent dirts/water, etc., getting into the inside of the brake assembly. Lexus cars have them.
Good to know!
This was very informative, thank you for the ft pounds for torque wrench
Glad it was helpful!
do you need to have parking brake on before you lift the car and work on the brakes, im pretty new and some video suggested parking brake may get in the way of checking the rotor from moving properly with the axle
I always have the parking brake on when I'm lifting the front and off when I'm lifting the rear. But then you want to put a block under the front tire to make sure it doesn't roll.
@carolinacowboys did you have your tire pressure light start blinking after changing the breaks? Mine has and shows code C1AEC, I’m hoping reinitializing the TPMS will solve it but figured I’d ask.
I didn't run into that, but you can try holding that reset button down to reinitialize, however you may have some bad TPMS sensory batteries, I recently had to replace all 4 TPMS sensors because the batteries inside were drained.
Good idea to wire brush axle hubs, thin lubed as well.
That's true
a flat piece of wood & a c-clamp works great to push that caliper piston back if i remember right
Those c-clamps can damage your caliper so it could work if you can protect both sides
great video exactly what i needed, going to try replacing the brakes on my sisters is 250 f sport
Glad it helped!
I know Im a couple of years late but great instructional video. Thank you for your time and effort in making this. I have a question though. Would this same process work on a 2010 ES 350? Thanks.
Hi, thanks! Most likely yes it would be the same but the part numbers may be different.
@@CarolinaCowboys Thank you for your response. Im gong to try to change my brakes sometime this coming week and I plan on following your video step by step. I can't thank you enough for this instructional video. Take care.
For anyone wondering - on Toyota rotors, the two little holes to help press the rotors off take 8mm x 1.25 (coarse thread) bolts.
Good to know!
Love this video really professional
Thanks, appreciate it!
I have a 2011 RX350 with 60,000 miles. Shop I go to says pads are getting thin and recommends replacing them. Is it necessary or recommended to replace the rotors at the same time or can I get away with just replacing the pads?
It really depends on the thickness of your rotors. In my opinion replacing both pads and rotors would be more beneficial. This allows maximum brake performance and will save you money in the long run as it would have same wear time.
The last time I replaced just the pads, my rotors ended up getting warped
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
How much are the toyota brake pads? Akebono sells oem ones as well. And wanted to see if the price difference is big enough to go with a specific option.
Also i don't know where you live but the wheel well area looks immaculate. Im from ontario canada and from the salt, there is always a layer of rust on everything. Im currently in arizona and cars here are clean.
Yeah there's going to be a huge difference in cars from where you are. I'm in North Carolina where we just get rain and maybe snow once a year! I always put links to the parts I order in the description of the video so you can check out the prices. I would always recommend sticking with OEM on these components.
Do you have new links to the full kit? I followed the link and it wasn’t available. Also did the same thing on the last link. Thank you for the video. I’m replacing both pads and rotors on my 2013 Lexus RX350 F Sport
Hey thanks for letting me know, I updated all the links. You can get the full front kit and the full rear kit with the links in the description, or just the pads. I couldn't find anyone selling both kits in one.
Awesome video, thank you. The Amazon link of the front shows it is for ES350, and the seller confirms in the Q&A that it only fits 2020-2015 ES350. Is it interchangeable with RX350 or it is a wrong link?
Thanks for pointing that out, it's fixed now. Those front rotors are hard to come by but I found them.
Thanks for your video. Really appreciate it. How did you determine the back bolts are 80 ft lbs? I have been trying to find everywhere and couldn't find out. Also, a little tip for you when trying to push the brake piston back, you can use the old brake pads and a "C-Clamp" to push them back.
Thanks, I think I had the old brake pad rolled into the rag. :-) I saw the torque on a Lexus forum.
Excellent! I have only 50,000 miles on my lexus 2015 but the dealer wants to change the pads and resurface the rotors at the tune of $700, you got 120000 out of yours what do you think? What kind of measurement should I look for in the wear of the pads and the disks before I replace them and How much did you pay for the parts and where did you get them?
Thanks again for the Excellent video
Hi, all the parts I use in my videos are in the description for your convenience. Well it depends on your driving habits and if you live in the city. Most of my miles were highway so I wasn't doing alot of braking and therefore the pads lasted much longer. Your dealer should be able to tell you how many mm of pad you have left. You can also look at it. I typically say when the pad is less thick than the back plate it's time to change them. I would also would do the rotors if you have any grooves or warping.
@@CarolinaCowboys All good tips there. Also another one - the snap on clips are wear indicators. Typically, you will get a metal to metal scraping noise if you jack up the vehicle, put it in neutral and release the handbrake to rotate the wheels when the pads are too far gone. Another tip - if you find that one side of the pad pair is worn more than the other - it will always be the one on the sliding pad mount, then you will also find that the lube is dried out causing the slider to not move back to its original position away from the rotor, (which is what causes the premature wear).
@@greywolf271 Makes sense!
What made you decide to replace the rotors? Were they beyond the wear limit, or were you having vibration issues?
I would have to take them off anyway to have them turned, and there's no guarantee they'll be perfectly flat, so I find it better to just swap them both at the same time.
Hey Carolina Cowboys, thank you for this video! I'm about to do my first ever brake job (rear only) and your video will definitely be my guide. But I'm wondering what grease are you using on the brake shims? Thats the only part I'm unsure of in this whole brake job
Awesome, good luck! The kit will come with a little packet of grease, I think it's lithium grease.
Tahmid…how did you do with the break job?
FYI - Bendix produce brake caliper grease. The smallest quantity is about the size of a family toothpaste tube. More like the quantity a small repair shop would keep in the garage.
Thanks for the prompt reply!
I live in the suburbs and it’s busy traffic, lots of braking
The dealer said I had approx 3 mm left On the pads, but I have no knowledge of what is supposed to be normal
Thanks
Around 12mm is new, so at 3mm you definitely need to plan on replacing soon.
@@CarolinaCowboys brake pads not so expensive to change
I'd swearat 9:45 you put the pad clip on top where it came off the bottom.
I don't think it matters
Yes, CC is correct. The clips are wear indicators. It does not matter if you put it on the top or bottom of the pad.
Thanks for another great video. Where do you get the torque specs? Is there a manual you recommend?
I get all my info from the Lexus forums, there's usually already topics on any subject
Carolina Cowboys - I really appreciate your videos! We just bought a 2010 RX 350 from our next door little old Lady with only 25,000 on it. So I’m hungry for anything I can do myself.
Great videos!!! Just bought a 2010 RX 350, 165k miles, I'd like to do the plugs, coils, brakes, oil changes, etc myself ( we'll see about the audio upgrade...) Do you ALWAYS use Toyota parts? The eBay link for the front rotors is dead btw, and the front pads on Amazon "Genuine Toyota 04465-48150 Front Brake Pad Set" are listed as "do not fit your 2010 Lexus RX 350" on Amazon, just so you are aware. I'd like to get exactly the same parts you're using in this video, hardware and all...also, I have the Carfax report, and it lists a 30,000 mile service performed, 50,000 mile service performed...is there a resource that identifies what is actually included in these maintenance service intervals? Ex: 65k miles, alignment, front/rear brake pads, but nothing in the Carfax about brakes after 65k miles...I plan to do it all anyway so that I know it's been done, but...is this 120,000 mile maintenance YOUR idea, or a Toyota/Lexus interval?
I would say go by the book for maintenance, it's also on their website -www.lexus.com/maintenance. One thing you'll notice is that they never tell you to service the transmission. They're made to never be serviced! If you have a carfax report that shows scheduled maintenance, you can see the corresponding items in the book and that's what they did. It's actually a great thing if you have that, I would never pay for that, but it's good that someone else did. I only have the dealership do my oil change and based on their inspection I will handle the rest myself. Even though it's so expensive to pay them to change the oil, it's worth it for me to have them raise up the vehicle and go over it thoroughly. Then when they tell me my. brakes are wearing out or my shocks are leaking, then I'll do it. Thanks for letting me know about the link, I will fix that!
@@CarolinaCowboys Man, thanks so much for your reply...I've done the air filter ( so easy with your video help!) Once I jacked the rear up ( I used the pinch weld as you suggested first, then used the cross member under the center of the rear...lifts the rear end easily enough to place jack stands under both pinch welds, btw) I discovered a good bit of rust (this was originally an Ohio car), so I'm a little nervous now about replacing the shocks myself, but still going for it...also, I understand you want to have the dealer look at the car while they change the oil, but I've been changing my own oil for many many years and hundreds of thousands of miles through a few vehicles, and I prefer to save that money too...oil change for this RX costs me $70; what does the dealer charge for the oil change? Thanks again for the videos and the reply!
@@backlineguy it’s usually about $100 for an oil change every 10K miles. I always changed my oil myself before I got a Lexus but like I said I’m not inspecting all the things they are going to find.
Do you have to 'bleed' the calipers because sometimes when when push the cylinders in for new pads, air gets into the system that could impair them from working correctly.
If you don't open the system you don't have to bleed them. That said, I typically pay the someone to do a brake system flush because it's supposed to be done every 2 years anyway and that bleeds them.
There's a few things I do differently that would make this a near 100% complete restoration to factory new and help you - 1. Loosen the caliper bleed screw when you are pushing the pistons back in the caliper. There's no grunting, no real work. They gliiiiiiiide back in with ease, PLUS YOU ARE NOT NOT NOT pushing old, nasty brake fluid back into your system. Hook a 1/4" ID hose to the screw and drain this into a milk jug. 2. Take a series of wire brushes/etc (search Amazon for hub cleaning tool) and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the hub mating surface of all rust/etc before putting the new rotors on. Also put on a coat of anti-seize on the hub surface. This prevents rust and makes it easy to take off next time. 3. FLUSH the brake fluid. Flush the brake fluid. It's not that hard and it puts new, fresh fluid in all your lines. 4. Clean those pad holders. Clean the area where the pad ears go with a file. 5. Break the pads in correctly.
Good tips!
Thank you! Just got new rotors and pad. I’m going to just flush the brake fluid too
What size bolt do you think you used to get the rotors off and press against the hub?
I honestly just kept trying various bolts I had until one of them worked. :-)
M8 x 1.25 x 25mm
The rear rotors have break pads inside as well, I would change them when having rotors dropped. It would be good to change the break fluid, maybe next video?
The rear brake pads looked good. I figured out that the rubber seal in the rotor is to adjust the rear pads. Thanks for the video idea!
@@CarolinaCowboys It’s for adjusting the parking brake pads.
Thank you, you are awesome 👍👍👍
Happy to help!
thank you for your video...awesome....
8:38 the rubber piece is just to keep water out.
Thanks!
What size are the lug nuts? My is 2007, is it the same size as your?
21mm same in all RX350's from 2007 to 2020
what the torque of the 2 bolts that hold the cailper to the wheel?
its should be 111ft lb,not 80 ft lb
Are you sure?
@@CarolinaCowboys I WENT LEXUS ASK THE PEOPLE WORK THERE AND THEY WERE NOT SURE 111 OR 80 EITHER.SO BAD
Never clean anything with brake cleaner on the brake caliper and caliper carrier bracket, before installation. Do not also wire brush the hub and do not put anti-seize on it, before putting the new rotor. That will ensure a good welding by rust next time you try to remove the disk. Also I'd loved to see where the jackstand was put for the forward brake job.
Good points!
@CarolinaCowboys 👍Seriously, now, thank you for the video and the effort!
please i have similar issues with my car heating system not working, whats the way out
Check the fuses!
32:35 That was not a 3 second stop sir! Haha! No cop no stop!! Thanks for the video!
LOL, there's no stop sign there!
Great job
Thanks
Why are you changing out your rotors when the brake pads are used up yet. Should you replace rotors with every pad change?
My rotors had grooves so if I just did the pads, I would likely cause warping. I could have them turned but i'd rather get some new clean rotors.
Great job. Jobs
Why didn’t you bleed the lines?
Because I didn't open the system, so it's still sealed. But when I had the dealer do a brake fluid flush every 3 years, they will bleed them.
120k on orginal brakes amazing.I usually go like 45k per brake job.
Definitely there is a quality difference between Lexus and other car companies
I own a lexus suv 2011.I had a 205 before that.
I want to see how to change gearbox oil
Do you mean transmission fluid? If so, Lexus doesn't recommend changing the transmission fluid.
Never need to change the transmission fliud.
120 thousand miles wow I know they build them strong when I got it 2016 that is squeaking
Yeah
Brake system screw torque parameter number of pounds
Screw torque? For the rotor screw? I just hand tightened it back.
ty
Would anyone know if a 2014 uses same parts as these listed? Also, what is best Lexus forum?
Hi, use the links in the video description and it will show the parts work for 2010-2015 models, you can also enter your model into Amazon and it will tell you if it fits. On the Forum, I always use www.clublexus.com/forums/
Compressing caliper piston like that pushes fluid backwards through abs module. Not good.
Always crack open bleeder, so piston can press fluid out instead of backwards through system. Attach a hose to a catch bottle to avoid mess.
Yes I have heard that but I never worry about it. I was planning on having a shop do a full brake system flush after I finished this job to cycle in new clean fluid.
@@CarolinaCowboys yeah, probably not worth it. Cracking bleeder open will probably take 10 sec or more, and a new abs module is probably only like $1,000.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 but then I have to bleed the system which will take at least another 20 minutes and I don’t think I can keep my viewers entertained for that long
@@CarolinaCowboys why would you have to bleed it?
Loosen bleeder, push pistons in, fluid goes out bleeder, close bleeder. No additional air is getting in just by opening bleeder.
Not to mention, even if it did, is that worth risking a $1,000 abs module (guessing on price might be more).
Worse yet, you're teaching others something that could cause damage.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 as soon as you open a bleed screw, air is introduced into the system. The risk of ruining an ABS is very low, there’s a lot more risk in just having contaminates from the caliper pushed into the system, but that’s why I always do a system flush when I’m done
*Don't Use Synthetic Anti seize! Use Sil Glide equivalent or those pins will seize in 10k miles bc it causes the rubber bushing to swell 😭*
Ahh man I hope that doesn't happen!
So you do all that and don’t replace the caliper pins and the boots. That’s insane.
I used everything in the kit tho
"Much slidier"! You've got to love English! You should put on some antiseize lub on before putting in the rotors.
LOL It's just how I roll. Ya on the rotors does it really matter, like is anyone going to be taking this off again 120,000 miles from now?
@@CarolinaCowboys wrote: "like is anyone going to be taking this off again 120,000 miles from now?" Some poor soul that couldn't afford a car. I think your RX305 can go up to 240K miles 🙂
Not really sure that is a proper break in process, and you could've also pumped the brakes after each side was finished so you don't have to worry about the fluid level, also could've used the old brake pad to compress the front pistons evenly. I personally start with prying on the caliper while it's still mounted to push in the pistons
Ya it's not something that a lot of people know, but it's legit!
This is not a bad video, but you should re-do it as there are so many items you missed or glossed over.
1. the small rubber plug on the rear brakes is for adjusting the “star wheel” on the parking brake. There’s a simple tool for that or you may just use a screwdriver to back off the parking brake shoes before trying to pull off the rear drum/rotors. Don’t say you “don’t know what it’s for” as these are well designed and built cars and nothing is there without a purpose.
2. There is a really simple tool for pushing the slave cylinders back in and available at any parts store. Squeezing them back in or using C-clamps is lame, you don’t want to be that guy.
3. The old lubricant on the slider pins is only half the problem. You need to also clean out the bores with a “bore brush” or use a gun cleaning brush.
4. The little stainless clips on the ends of the new brake pads have a lot of thought behind them and there is a proper way they go back in.
5. Did you notice the pins are different? One has a rubber ring, the other doesn’t.
Please re-do this video and address all the items for a brake job, then you will get more “likes”
Good tips!
Oh, you lucked out
You think so?
the clip support to be on the bottom not on the top. BIG FAIL
They work either way
I was wondering if you watch the Car Care Nut on You Tube he is a master technician for Toyota and Lexus, and has a number of videos that are very informative . He does a step by step procedures about Toyota and Lexus.
@@budnotu that’s cool, I’ll check him out!
120k miles ummmmm usually brakes go at 5yr or 30k miles on the front you must be doin 5 min drives your rotors look good in the back
Haha, actually I was doing alot of highway driving where I didn't need to brake much, but yeah they were lasting a REALLY long time!
amassing part is how American Replacing unnecessary parts ,like Rotors..there was NOTHING wrong with that rotor, i just checked my 177k miles Lexus -- Nothing wrong , had Explorer at 210k miles-- nothing wrong with rotors . Unles it has Groves due to metal to metal damage-- there is no Reason to replace them at 200k,, Ohh right may be you driving in Sahara
I prefer to replace the rotors to eliminate any warping
Flip flops and white socks? Really?
Only if you're a DIYer