I am a maintenance mechanic in a foundry. There are bolts that have gone thru a gazillion heating/cooling cycles and have fused with the surrounding metal. I have an entire toolbox dedicated just for bolt/screw extraction. Been here 3 years and have only removed half a dozen bolts the normal way. The other 10,000 have been surgery. One of my prized possessions is a set of jobber length carbide drills with a left hand pitch. While I am drilling out the bolt for an extractor the left hand pitch allows for the cutting edge to occasionally grab hold and walks the bolt right out. About 30% of the time I can get it out like that. But if it doesn’t, I still end up with a hole. Then heat, then Liquid Wrench, soak, repeat a few times the the extractor. If you have the room, a porta-mag drill is the best.
Definitely a mag drill if theres room. I broke my damn hand using a hand drill and 3/4" bit while opening up a hole on a trailer frame. I was as locked in and stable as a man can be, but still paid the price when one of the cutting edges broke off and the bit locked up. I'm not a tool noob, 20 yr mechanic, fabricator and welder here that really was very shocked when it happened lol.
The "slip on" type grease fittings were also used on pipeline valves for natural gas. We referred to them as Alemite fittings. Alemite was a brand of lubricants and accessories. The grease in the valves was both lubricant and stem packing. I admire your perseverance with removing the rusted bolts from the track frame. Being frozen with rust is bad but being in an inaccessible spot is worse. All hail the blue flame wrench!
The ability to extract a bolt takes a special person with a lot of patience. You want to fix it at that rightful moment but you literally have to take your time and take breaks to think of different approaches. For those of you who think that this is easy without messing it up, I would think it again. Kudos to you on this project.
Jt G: Yes Yes You Need To Take Your Time Weld That Nut On Really Good The Heat From Welding Should Be Enough But It Would Be Good If You Could Keep It Hot With The Tourch It Will Come Out Instead Of all That Drilling Especially With An Extractor With a Bolt That Is That Tight
You have more friends than you know Matt, just many of us are not local sadly. Really love the job you're doing, I've learned so much watching your channel
Given the age of the Dozer and the weight of the engine resting on those leaf springs plus the battering they take during their working life I'd seriously suggest that you take then off and apart and either have them tempered again at a shop that does that or do it yourself. I'd be surprised if they haven't lost some of their original "springyness".
Nice job working through the roadblocks the ole gal is presenting. Looking forward to seeing you drive the beast in the future! Thanks for bringing us along.
Building up those spring brackets. You are better off just making new ones. Takes about the same time but the results are far better. When blowing out bolts with the gas what you have to remember is that you are using the thermal difference between the housing and the bolt. The trick is to keep the temperature of the housing below the point where the Oxy acetylene will start to cut. It can be done but it is tricky. An easier method where the hole is not blind is to drill a centered hole as large as you can without touching the thread and use a hacksaw blade to cut through the thread so you can pry the bolt remnant out.
I’m really enjoying this series of rebuilding your old cat. You could take all the old parts and weld then together making a piece of artwork, sell it or put it in your yard. As a tribute to your hard work.
I've been waiting for this episode to see if you were able to get the parts you need to get the springs in full operational condition. Ya gotta be slightly loony to take on a project like this one. It actually helps keep you sane to be that way. Some of the projects I've taken on my Wife thought I was full on loony tunes but boy was she impressed when I got them done and they turned out great. I can't wait to see you pushin' pond dirt with this little beast.
A tip for removing large rust scale is use the flame of a cutting torch (like your going to cut a piece of steel) and pass it over the rusted areas about 2 inches and the rust scales will begin to pop off. Then hit it with your needle scaler. Also a piece of brass for plugging holes is great, the steel won’t fuse with the brass and it’ll last longer then the aluminum 🤙🏼.
So very happy Matt to see another video as this is a close top video series for me. That iron and I are of a similar age and really am enjoying the care given to this build. The rabbit hole your in right now has to hurt as you are not endowed with buckets of cash. I can't wish you to work faster but will say your my go to as soon as I see it in notifications
Perseverance, imagination, and patience. Key attributes for boot extraction. Love you vids brother. Wish I could be there to help… or at least hold a flashlight!😉
I have been a mechanic for over 50 years. Heres the deal. Heat causes most objects to expand. Heating the hole will enlarge it which is what you are trying to achieve. Heating the bolt will cause it to expand and thus make it tighter in the hole, which you dont want.
I have no skill or knowledge in this field so can’t help with comments. I did want to say with your goggles, beard, and needle scaler you look like Mad Max (Mad Matt?) of Cat Land. Would make a great logo for T-Shirts. Love the series.
Hillbilly - You take all the time you need to work on ur project!! I enjoy the effort & ur problem solving methods!! No hurry - from somewheres in SWMO!
Looks great brother, just try to heat bolts up red hot and let cool overnight, it’s a process that shouldn’t be rushed! But you got it figured out brother, thanks for sharing Matt and y’all stay safe and healthy my friend! 👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸
I have been following your videos. Good job. I have a nearly restored D4D... I saw the last video and I want to make an observation, because it's not the first time I've seen the same work. When you try to unlock a bolt or nut with the torch, you must heat both parts very well and then wet them in cold water until they cool down, so that there is a thermal shock. So now you can unscrew them easily. When both are hot, both expand, and when unlocking the pieces they are damaged or glued. This is a very old method, used in Portugal. This is just a suggestion, I've learned a lot from you, I hope it helps you a little. Keep up the good work!
When you grease the machine always and I mean always take out the fittings and use a new grease fitting to grease through it take it back out and put the run fitting back in when your done. I took out about 12 wheel bearing on my skidder greasing through run grease fittings. There gets a little dirt in the run fittings to eat up parts. Sense I when to using new grease fittings to grease everytime I haven't replaced any more wheel bearings of any other parts wearing out.
I feel for your frustration on this dozer. But you have given others the knowledge of what to look for when buying a used dozer.thanks for the help and I can't wait to see this thing pushing dirt for you.
I have purchased and used many different make/model's of extractor's and they all have broke on me. Your right, once they break, it turns into way more problems. I never use them anymore... Your sir, are a master of your craft... HOOAH!!!
Hi Matt, just a quick note. With stuck bolts like you had it the track frame, use the torch heat around the stuck bolt. The heat expanse the metal around the bold. With you heating up the bolt, one your making it expand 2 making the bolt softer and will brake off. Enjoy your videos, and really glad your that your including us on UA-cam. Stay safe & awaiting next video. A friend in PA. Robin Jo
Heat and quench! Heat and quench! Put some cold water on it after getting it hot so it shrinks and breaks up the rust. Heating is only half of the process.
Hello Matt, good to see you brother! You’re the man a! 👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻 Get those gloves brother, 37 years old welding I learned years ago! 😎 Matt, heat around it red and let cool over night! Last thing you want is just what you said about breaking it off! Well I’m glad you’re making some headway brother! I think you can swop the pins out for bolts and some hardened bolts! You could make new brackets out of flat bar!
Matt, you might want to hold onto the leaf spring ends after all, in addition to whatever safety you add directly to the engine. Squared-off u-bolts across the tops of the ends, and 3/8ths angle iron welded to the track frame.
take all the pressure off track from cement floor jack up the side your putting spring inside / move bogie wheel to help line up tension brackets to spring holder
At 12:40 - if viewers are not familiar with a needle scaler, they are really handy for breaking off loose rust scale on surfaces. I've used one for a couple car restorations and I also found it helpful for doing the same task on my riding mower deck that I neglected for 3 to 4 years which caused heavy pitting. I now use the needle scaler to clean my mower deck once a year after the final mowing and then spray it with "fluid film". If the deck isn't maintained you'll end up with a riding tractor instead, without a mower, and pretty much useless. I've had my riding mower for 15 years and, over the last several years have been trying to prolong the deck life by this method. The needle scaler is available at Harbor Freight for not much money. Of course, you need an air compressor that can maintain at least 90 psi. There are sources for the fluid film on the internet; might even be able to buy it locally. Fluid film seals the surface from air and reduces further deterioration over the winter months, prolonging its life. Replacement mower decks are hard to get after just a few years of manufacture.
I have good results with heating the iron that the bolt goes into . Theory has it it expands the metal around the bolt. A good few love taps on the head of the bolt helps to persuade it. Good video.
Another story on SLOANS Liniment…when we moved to NC in ‘99 we looked for and found a good marine outboard mechanic. Found on working on an old 100 hp Mercury i believe. He was in his shop trying to free up the big swivel pin that the tilting up outboard swings up on. It was frozen to the aluminum female hinge part on the mounting bracket. I believe it was steel shaft frozen to the aluminum female part of the motor. I watched for a minute and suggested he try the elevator mechanic’s . When I was nearby a few weeks later i stopped btpy his shop and inquired as to his success with the frozen outboard tilt hinge. “ worked like a charm. I could not believe it.” My mechanics swore by Sloan’s on frozen steel on steel. This was steel on aluminum. Another trick is paint thinner on looking for cracked cast iron or steel parts. Like cracked Jeep engine heads. Varsol also has a very low viscosity and will show the crack,spray it on, wipe it off and the paint thinner will stay in and show the crack in the head. I believe it would work just as well on frozen bolts. Anyone trying these old tricks please send me a thank you . I prefer cash, but a $100 gift certificate would be line. No Biden digital money please. JoeB
I used to heat the area around the bolt as close to cherry red as possible. This caused the area around to bolt to expand. If it was really bad, I'd hold ice cubes on the bolt and that would give it enough expansion around the bolt and contraction of the bolt to help the situation.
28:50 Your grease gun is set for high pressure, low volume. The lever has 2 positions. The upper one gives more volume (longer stroke) with lower pressure.
Your doin good. Been watchin your videos since you hired hauler to bring your Cat home. lookin forward to your electric start& winch service. You can speed up dry time of paint , by mixing 1/2 teaspoon Japan paint dryer per 1/2 pint of paint, if your brushing it on, check it out w/paint store. Have a good one.
Lots of good suggestions already. You are doing a great job. Bolt extraction is one of those deals that what worked before doesn't work again. It's always a patient process and you are excellent at keeping your patience. Most of the rust is from years of dirt, moisture, and oxygen and had ate at the heads of the bolts, too. No one can keep the dirt cleaned out of those locations. Thanks once again.
Matt an observation when welding two rusted pieces of metal together one always cleans the rust off where the weld is going to be laid down, I know sometimes there is no room to work but when welding a nut on a broken bolt or stud very few will clean up the metal before welding and the weld will break lol
hi there have been following yr posts since day one love the content how you take us through each step should make us all dozer literate to take down anyhow cant help you with any advice sadly but thanks for the tutorial
An old timer, my father-in-law taught me a valuable hack for bolts that has worked 90% of the time, first heat said bolt red hot leaving no dark spots, next and this is the important part, use a sprits bottle squirt water or spray with wd-40 until cool to touch. Bolts will for the most part unscrew like you just ran the in. That was free, hope you use it with the same smile it gives me when dealing with stuck bolts....
The only tool I would recommend is getting a rosebud or I think the official name is multiflame for the torch. I have used mine extensively for years vs a cutting tip. They are great for using up a lot of gas on the torch, too.🤑
You could try a Bushing to adapt a Grease Fitting ? Thanks for the update ! Looking forward to the next one ! I am glad i never lived where things rust that bad !
Heat. At 79 and earning a living as a aircraft mechanic and well as a service engineer, please accept the following. When removing a bolt stuck in metal .... heat is "usually" a good choice. Heat causes items to expand. So when you desire to remove a bolt from a hole ,,,,, heating the surrounding metal will cause the hole to enlarge. Heating the bolt on the other hand causes the bolt to expand in the hole which makes it tighter. The issue is ,,,, its a lot easier and faster to heat the bolt. But you will have much greater success heating the surrounding metal.
Restoring old machines (especially those exposed to the elements) can be labor intensive and challenging for even the most seasoned mechanic. Nuts and bolts that have been rusting for 50+ years generally don't buzz right out! Looks like you're on the home-stretch though, so it should get easier! Nice work! 👍
Great video Matt :) That darn old Grease will be a Tuff Sucker, have fun and keep up the hard work, you have a great Audience viewing, so enjoy your time...
When you are welding always keep the ground as close to the work as possible. When you had no connection, the current will try to flow through the bearings and you get weld spots on the races and roller/balls.
Enjoying this series. Very entertaining. For backing up welds, copper is better since it has a much higher melting point. I would have also welded on a nice thick washer on the back of the bracket and made a linger pin.
Nice job on the bolt extraction. I have been there, not fun and time consuming but worth the effort in the long run, regardless of the fact you had no choice. Good video, like your thinking and process sir.
I know everyone is a internet pro. Something that you can try with stubborn bolts when removing them is heat them multiple times with your acetylene. get them glowing, let them cool, repeat, 3 to 4 times, and they usually give up. Sometimes I will run a squirt gun with water on the head after the third or 4th go. Every time I do a cdc on a ge frame 7fa, the internals needs to be cut or heated, but a lot of times just repeating the heat cycle over and over helps quit a bit. It looks like you have a good handle on it though.
I sure hope that things work out for you. You have done a lot of work and there is still more to go. One thing for sure, you will know your machine inside and out.
I am a maintenance mechanic in a foundry. There are bolts that have gone thru a gazillion heating/cooling cycles and have fused with the surrounding metal. I have an entire toolbox dedicated just for bolt/screw extraction. Been here 3 years and have only removed half a dozen bolts the normal way. The other 10,000 have been surgery. One of my prized possessions is a set of jobber length carbide drills with a left hand pitch. While I am drilling out the bolt for an extractor the left hand pitch allows for the cutting edge to occasionally grab hold and walks the bolt right out. About 30% of the time I can get it out like that. But if it doesn’t, I still end up with a hole. Then heat, then Liquid Wrench, soak, repeat a few times the the extractor. If you have the room, a porta-mag drill is the best.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Left hand drill bits.
Definitely a mag drill if theres room. I broke my damn hand using a hand drill and 3/4" bit while opening up a hole on a trailer frame. I was as locked in and stable as a man can be, but still paid the price when one of the cutting edges broke off and the bit locked up. I'm not a tool noob, 20 yr mechanic, fabricator and welder here that really was very shocked when it happened lol.
Good stuff Matt. At least 50% of old iron refurbishment is removing stuck fasteners
One rusted bolt will take the same amount of time as 30 non rusted bolts
The "slip on" type grease fittings were also used on pipeline valves for natural gas. We referred to them as Alemite fittings. Alemite was a brand of lubricants and accessories. The grease in the valves was both lubricant and stem packing.
I admire your perseverance with removing the rusted bolts from the track frame. Being frozen with rust is bad but being in an inaccessible spot is worse. All hail the blue flame wrench!
Can't be stuck if it's liquid... Just sayin'
Alemite was the company that invented the grease fitting ……if I’m not mistaken. I know they make quality grease guns, fittings etc.
The ability to extract a bolt takes a special person with a lot of patience. You want to fix it at that rightful moment but you literally have to take your time and take breaks to think of different approaches. For those of you who think that this is easy without messing it up, I would think it again. Kudos to you on this project.
Jt G: Yes Yes You Need To Take Your Time Weld That Nut On Really Good The Heat From Welding Should Be Enough But It Would Be Good If You Could Keep It Hot With The Tourch It Will Come Out Instead Of all That Drilling Especially With An Extractor With a Bolt That Is That Tight
Yeah, I'd have gotten pissed off, thrown tools, cussed and went right to the torch.
You have more friends than you know Matt, just many of us are not local sadly. Really love the job you're doing, I've learned so much watching your channel
Given the age of the Dozer and the weight of the engine resting on those leaf springs plus the battering they take during their working life I'd seriously suggest that you take then off and apart and either have them tempered again at a shop that does that or do it yourself.
I'd be surprised if they haven't lost some of their original "springyness".
Nice job working through the roadblocks the ole gal is presenting. Looking forward to seeing you drive the beast in the future! Thanks for bringing us along.
Use your torch to heat up the old grease and pump new through is the best way I’ve found .
Great job. I'm enjoying every video. I joined you when you dragged her out of the woods and admire your work and attitude. Thank you
Thanks Matt for another video. All the best
Just got through all of the D4 vids. Great series so far, Matt. Looking forward to you continuing.
Been watching these for a while and I love seeing the progress on the old rig
You gotta love those “friends with a stick welder”😂😂😂
Building up those spring brackets. You are better off just making new ones. Takes about the same time but the results are far better.
When blowing out bolts with the gas what you have to remember is that you are using the thermal difference between the housing and the bolt. The trick is to keep the temperature of the housing below the point where the Oxy acetylene will start to cut. It can be done but it is tricky. An easier method where the hole is not blind is to drill a centered hole as large as you can without touching the thread and use a hacksaw blade to cut through the thread so you can pry the bolt remnant out.
I’m really enjoying this series of rebuilding your old cat. You could take all the old parts and weld then together making a piece of artwork, sell it or put it in your yard. As a tribute to your hard work.
I've been waiting for this episode to see if you were able to get the parts you need to get the springs in full operational condition.
Ya gotta be slightly loony to take on a project like this one.
It actually helps keep you sane to be that way.
Some of the projects I've taken on my Wife thought I was full on loony tunes but boy was she impressed when I got them done and they turned out great.
I can't wait to see you pushin' pond dirt with this little beast.
What a struggle with the undercarriage Matt! I'm really enjoying your channel and this epic undertaking and videography. Oh yeah and Charlie too!
Congrats Matt on getting the parts needed and getting the Bolts out. tough job, butt u did it. lv ur videos.
A tip for removing large rust scale is use the flame of a cutting torch (like your going to cut a piece of steel) and pass it over the rusted areas about 2 inches and the rust scales will begin to pop off. Then hit it with your needle scaler. Also a piece of brass for plugging holes is great, the steel won’t fuse with the brass and it’ll last longer then the aluminum 🤙🏼.
So very happy Matt to see another video as this is a close top video series for me. That iron and I are of a similar age and really am enjoying the care given to this build. The rabbit hole your in right now has to hurt as you are not endowed with buckets of cash. I can't wish you to work faster but will say your my go to as soon as I see it in notifications
Thanks for another video, really enjoy seeing you work through the issues that present themselves regards Mike
Perseverance, imagination, and patience. Key attributes for boot extraction. Love you vids brother. Wish I could be there to help… or at least hold a flashlight!😉
I have been a mechanic for over 50 years. Heres the deal. Heat causes most objects to expand. Heating the hole will enlarge it which is what you are trying to achieve. Heating the bolt will cause it to expand and thus make it tighter in the hole, which you dont want.
I have no skill or knowledge in this field so can’t help with comments. I did want to say with your goggles, beard, and needle scaler you look like Mad Max (Mad Matt?) of Cat Land. Would make a great logo for T-Shirts. Love the series.
You should really find a smaller diameter pipe to use as a breaker bar. You'll find you'll have less slop in it and it will be far more effective
Hillbilly - You take all the time you need to work on ur project!!
I enjoy the effort & ur problem solving methods!!
No hurry - from somewheres in SWMO!
Looks great brother, just try to heat bolts up red hot and let cool overnight, it’s a process that shouldn’t be rushed! But you got it figured out brother, thanks for sharing Matt and y’all stay safe and healthy my friend! 👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸
Great stuff Matt. Looking excellent. Nearly time to add the engine too!
You have to find that socket - otherwise I wont be able to sleep. Great progress - it's shaping up.
to take out a rounded bolt like that the easiest way is to weld a nut to the top of it, and let it cool. keep up the good work
2 things: when you heat up a stuck bolt: also heat the housing where it is located in. And: you can weld a new nut ontop of a rounded off bolt :)
Laughed so hard when socket wrench fell.
I have been following your videos. Good job. I have a nearly restored D4D...
I saw the last video and I want to make an observation, because it's not the first time I've seen the same work.
When you try to unlock a bolt or nut with the torch, you must heat both parts very well and then wet them in cold water until they cool down, so that there is a thermal shock. So now you can unscrew them easily.
When both are hot, both expand, and when unlocking the pieces they are damaged or glued.
This is a very old method, used in Portugal. This is just a suggestion, I've learned a lot from you, I hope it helps you a little. Keep up the good work!
When you get close to firing it up or need an extra hand with something, let us folks in the area know. Would like to see it run close up or help.
When you grease the machine always and I mean always take out the fittings and use a new grease fitting to grease through it take it back out and put the run fitting back in when your done. I took out about 12 wheel bearing on my skidder greasing through run grease fittings. There gets a little dirt in the run fittings to eat up parts. Sense I when to using new grease fittings to grease everytime I haven't replaced any more wheel bearings of any other parts wearing out.
I feel for your frustration on this dozer. But you have given others the knowledge of what to look for when buying a used dozer.thanks for the help and I can't wait to see this thing pushing dirt for you.
I have purchased and used many different make/model's of extractor's and they all have broke on me. Your right, once they break, it turns into way more problems. I never use them anymore... Your sir, are a master of your craft... HOOAH!!!
Love ya work Matt, looking forward to the next part, caterpillar should Gove u a medal for doing all this.
Hi Matt, just a quick note. With stuck bolts like you had it the track frame, use the torch heat around the stuck bolt. The heat expanse the metal around the bold. With you heating up the bolt, one your making it expand 2 making the bolt softer and will brake off. Enjoy your videos, and really glad your that your including us on UA-cam. Stay safe & awaiting next video. A friend in PA. Robin Jo
Heat and quench! Heat and quench! Put some cold water on it after getting it hot so it shrinks and breaks up the rust. Heating is only half of the process.
Dan in Fl. If it’s humor I love it . I enjoy watching you either way.
Hello Matt, good to see you brother! You’re the man a! 👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻 Get those gloves brother, 37 years old welding I learned years ago! 😎 Matt, heat around it red and let cool over night! Last thing you want is just what you said about breaking it off! Well I’m glad you’re making some headway brother! I think you can swop the pins out for bolts and some hardened bolts! You could make new brackets out of flat bar!
Matt, you might want to hold onto the leaf spring ends after all, in addition to whatever safety you add directly to the engine. Squared-off u-bolts across the tops of the ends, and 3/8ths angle iron welded to the track frame.
The wait between videos is killing me I forget I'm subbed.
Job well done! Nice work Matt!!
take all the pressure off track from cement floor jack up the side your putting spring inside / move bogie wheel to help line up tension brackets to spring holder
At 12:40 - if viewers are not familiar with a needle scaler, they are really handy for breaking off loose rust scale on surfaces. I've used one for a couple car restorations and I also found it helpful for doing the same task on my riding mower deck that I neglected for 3 to 4 years which caused heavy pitting. I now use the needle scaler to clean my mower deck once a year after the final mowing and then spray it with "fluid film". If the deck isn't maintained you'll end up with a riding tractor instead, without a mower, and pretty much useless. I've had my riding mower for 15 years and, over the last several years have been trying to prolong the deck life by this method.
The needle scaler is available at Harbor Freight for not much money. Of course, you need an air compressor that can maintain at least 90 psi.
There are sources for the fluid film on the internet; might even be able to buy it locally. Fluid film seals the surface from air and reduces further deterioration over the winter months, prolonging its life. Replacement mower decks are hard to get after just a few years of manufacture.
For the idler, rollers you should use a high volume, low pressure gun. The piston on those is about 3 times the diameter as the regular grease gun.
I have good results with heating the iron that the bolt goes into . Theory has it it expands the metal around the bolt. A good few love taps on the head of the bolt helps to persuade it. Good video.
Another story on SLOANS Liniment…when we moved to NC in ‘99 we looked for and found a good marine outboard mechanic. Found on working on an old 100 hp Mercury i believe. He was in his shop trying to free up the big swivel pin that the tilting up outboard swings up on. It was frozen to the aluminum female hinge part on the mounting bracket. I believe it was steel shaft frozen to the aluminum female part of the motor. I watched for a minute and suggested he try the elevator mechanic’s . When I was nearby a few weeks later i stopped btpy his shop and inquired as to his success with the frozen outboard tilt hinge. “ worked like a charm. I could not believe it.” My mechanics swore by Sloan’s on frozen steel on steel. This was steel on aluminum. Another trick is paint thinner on looking for cracked cast iron or steel parts. Like cracked Jeep engine heads. Varsol also has a very low viscosity and will show the crack,spray it on, wipe it off and the paint thinner will stay in and show the crack in the head. I believe it would work just as well on frozen bolts.
Anyone trying these old tricks please send me a thank you . I prefer cash, but a $100 gift certificate would be line. No Biden digital money please.
JoeB
I used to heat the area around the bolt as close to cherry red as possible. This caused the area around to bolt to expand. If it was really bad, I'd hold ice cubes on the bolt and that would give it enough expansion around the bolt and contraction of the bolt to help the situation.
Looking great i have to rank you up there with squatch 253
The difference between me and Squatch is that he knows what he is doing. Also, he is better looking.
28:50
Your grease gun is set for high pressure, low volume.
The lever has 2 positions. The upper one gives more volume (longer stroke) with lower pressure.
Someone REALLY had their way with this dozer, damn
Well done Matt. Can't wait to see this run. Don't believe you don't have any friends🤔
This is the funniest video you've made so far!
Hi Matt... have been enjoying watching your work..... I am impressed..... all the best from down under Don
Your doin good. Been watchin your videos since you hired hauler to bring your Cat home. lookin forward to your electric start& winch service. You can speed up dry time of paint , by mixing 1/2 teaspoon Japan paint dryer per 1/2 pint of paint, if your brushing it on, check it out w/paint store. Have a good one.
Love the vids heat the casting not the bolt makes life easier. Keep up the good work
That's one heck of a tap!
Really enjoying this series Matt. Hang in there.
Drive it around… ha!! Doing a great job.
Really nice work. Your patience is amazing.
Woohoo! What an awesome surprise tonight! Thanks Matt!
Lots of good suggestions already. You are doing a great job. Bolt extraction is one of those deals that what worked before doesn't work again. It's always a patient process and you are excellent at keeping your patience. Most of the rust is from years of dirt, moisture, and oxygen and had ate at the heads of the bolts, too. No one can keep the dirt cleaned out of those locations. Thanks once again.
I admire your patience. Great video .
Been flowing you for awhile loved every sec. Thanks for your hard work.
Great job Matt, you gave them old bolts a beating and rescued the threads !
Matt an observation when welding two rusted pieces of metal together one always cleans the rust off where the weld is going to be laid down, I know sometimes there is no room to work but when welding a nut on a broken bolt or stud very few will clean up the metal before welding and the weld will break lol
Lots of work..keep em coming!!!!
Awesome Matt thanks.
Needed to let your welded nut cool a little and heat around the bolt instead of the bolt itself. While attempting to back out the bolt.
Great job Matt, glad you found your wielding gloves.
Awesome job, Well done!
Great work Matt!
Getting close! Gonna be awesome seeing you fire this up the first time.
23:40 copper anti seize works really well
hi there have been following yr posts since day one love the content how you take us through each step should make us all dozer literate to take down anyhow cant help you with any advice sadly but thanks for the tutorial
An old timer, my father-in-law taught me a valuable hack for bolts that has worked 90% of the time, first heat said bolt red hot leaving no dark spots, next and this is the important part, use a sprits bottle squirt water or spray with wd-40 until cool to touch. Bolts will for the most part unscrew like you just ran the in.
That was free, hope you use it with the same smile it gives me when dealing with stuck bolts....
Can almost hear this old iron sigh with relief as the grease flows into and around the bearings.
Your videos are really interesting and entertaining. I could watch this series for the rest of my life. I hope you never finish 😉
The only tool I would recommend is getting a rosebud or I think the official name is multiflame for the torch. I have used mine extensively for years vs a cutting tip. They are great for using up a lot of gas on the torch, too.🤑
You could try a Bushing to adapt a Grease Fitting ? Thanks for the update ! Looking forward to the next one ! I am glad i never lived where things rust that bad !
Heat. At 79 and earning a living as a aircraft mechanic and well as a service engineer, please accept the following. When removing a bolt stuck in metal .... heat is "usually" a good choice. Heat causes items to expand. So when you desire to remove a bolt from a hole ,,,,, heating the surrounding metal will cause the hole to enlarge. Heating the bolt on the other hand causes the bolt to expand in the hole which makes it tighter. The issue is ,,,, its a lot easier and faster to heat the bolt. But you will have much greater success heating the surrounding metal.
Your content is always interesting. But your determination to overcome speed bumps that impress me. Continued success to you from Cincinnati Ohio.
great progress
Restoring old machines (especially those exposed to the elements) can be labor intensive and challenging for even the most seasoned mechanic. Nuts and bolts that have been rusting for 50+ years generally don't buzz right out! Looks like you're on the home-stretch though, so it should get easier! Nice work! 👍
keep up the good work. I love these videos, been watching since the start. Can wait to see you fire it up!
Great video Matt :) That darn old Grease will be a Tuff Sucker, have fun and keep up the hard work, you have a great Audience viewing, so enjoy your time...
Your doing an awesome job
Perfect time to use Ospho, forget the correct spelling but it works great at converting rust and setting up the frame for paint.
When you are welding always keep the ground as close to the work as possible. When you had no connection, the current will try to flow through the bearings and you get weld spots on the races and roller/balls.
All good Matt 👍👍👍👍 get'n close.
Enjoying this series. Very entertaining. For backing up welds, copper is better since it has a much higher melting point. I would have also welded on a nice thick washer on the back of the bracket and made a linger pin.
I get my 00 grease from Tractor Supply $6.19 quart. I use it in the gear boxes of my rotary cutters (bush hogs)
Nice job on the bolt extraction. I have been there, not fun and time consuming but worth the effort in the long run, regardless of the fact you had no choice. Good video, like your thinking and process sir.
I know everyone is a internet pro. Something that you can try with stubborn bolts when removing them is heat them multiple times with your acetylene. get them glowing, let them cool, repeat, 3 to 4 times, and they usually give up. Sometimes I will run a squirt gun with water on the head after the third or 4th go. Every time I do a cdc on a ge frame 7fa, the internals needs to be cut or heated, but a lot of times just repeating the heat cycle over and over helps quit a bit. It looks like you have a good handle on it though.
I sure hope that things work out for you. You have done a lot of work and there is still more to go. One thing for sure, you will know your machine inside and out.
we want to see you put that motor back and started !
You gotta just love it.. see you next time