Lou I think the only way to make orange lights different from yellow is to paint the lenses orange and then use a red light to give it a different tone of orange
Used to be they made amber LEDs that were redder than orange, definitely different from yellow. I haven't shopped for them in a while. Ask your LED board man about them. That thumbnail shot through the windshield is just amazing. All that work is not hidden, which is a good thing considering how relatively plain the hull is. I'd be tempted to use a light brown pin wash to emphasize the panel lines but that might be a little cartoony. Brilliant move with the latinum, and more is definitely merrier.
Now there's the wisdom of experience: Don't rush it. Rushing it has caused me much wailing and gnashing of teeth. As an aside, there sure aren't many places to sit on a Ferengi shuttle.
The word you were searching for Lou, is Potentiometer or POT's as they are sometimes referred to. I used one on my very first lit build of the original Enterprise (back in 1978) to control the speed of the LED spin effect in the nacelles. (it was my third actual build of the kit) I had it connected to the main dish antenna stem on the inside of the secondary hull, so when you turned the dish the LED's appeared to be spinning faster or slower. Of course back then, they were a lot bigger. 😁👍
Lou+ I am finally getting around to to my flying sub kit and I was at the auto parts store auto zone and I seen there Dulpli - color rack and seen the color I was looking for school bus yellow DA1663 I didn't expect that bought it asap was looking at your video's on how you did yours to get ideas 💡 love this video keep up the great work
Hi Lou a great job again and i don't blame you for not painting Quarks caot it would have taken a long time how Keith did it is beyond me, if you had put orange gel behind the engines would that have given better definition ? a brilliant build yet again Lou you are a master at this painting lark
Hi, Just a thought, you could do a small diorama of Quark hugging a giant bar of latinum as a joke model for your desk or a small space on a shelf. Cheers.
Real quick question, Lou. Years back, I was able to get my brother a set used bar of Gold Pressed Platinum. If your bar reads DANA on one side and BEAR on the other, then you have the real deal. It's very easy to find photo samples. Bear was the prop guy, Dana his girlfriend. If it does not, then Brunt will be coming you, making counterfeit bars. And other than a few "hero" bars, the prop bars were made from plaster. The more you know.... (Music cue)
Nice work! I was curious why don't you pin the figures down? I usually drill a small hole in the feet and base and put a 1.2mm wire in. I've had good luck doing that.
That is not bad at all. I think the late-discovery of a hole on the topside (at auction pic) is a motion-control rig mount point. Your color trials and tribulations are interesting. As a former graphic pro, you know well how hard it is to specify a color once it's out of your hands. We, out here, are stuck with whatever it is that the server farms, UA-cam and our monitors do with the color you have. I see the problem as starting with your lighting (sorry, that may sound harsh, but I have\ few bugaboos that get to me like lighting does). You shouldn't mix LED lighting-- pick one and let your camera do whatever it does to so-called balance that source. Your camera sensors don't like LEDs to start with, so there's all manner of color interpretation that *it* does before you see it. Plus the little camera screen and all the guts on the way, are optimized to look as good as it can to you, the viewer. What happens later can be all over the place and it doesn't care. Your eyes can handle a lot of color processing, so what looks good in front of you is no doubt just fine. Love the diorama-- who doesn't enjoy a pile o Latanum! You worked hard on that interior lighting and the results are dazzling, even through all the above mentioned display struggles! The teeny figure work is a testament to the fine nerve control of one Lou Dalmaso! You forgot to show us what the Olsens sent you. So a non-standard video drop-in would be nice.
Lou I think the only way to make orange lights different from yellow is to paint the lenses orange and then use a red light to give it a different tone of orange
Lou - That view through the windshield looks fantastic! So much to see!
Used to be they made amber LEDs that were redder than orange, definitely different from yellow. I haven't shopped for them in a while. Ask your LED board man about them.
That thumbnail shot through the windshield is just amazing. All that work is not hidden, which is a good thing considering how relatively plain the hull is. I'd be tempted to use a light brown pin wash to emphasize the panel lines but that might be a little cartoony.
Brilliant move with the latinum, and more is definitely merrier.
Beautiful job . The Color is Perfect.
Fantastic job as always, Lou!!
Outstanding!!🖖
Now there's the wisdom of experience: Don't rush it. Rushing it has caused me much wailing and gnashing of teeth. As an aside, there sure aren't many places to sit on a Ferengi shuttle.
Man, I so wish you were my neighbor. I'd be hanging out at your house ALL the time! As always, your work is sublime.
Turned out really good Lou! Lights look a lot better! I like how you stumbled onto the color! Well done! 👍🙂
The word you were searching for Lou, is Potentiometer or POT's as they are sometimes referred to.
I used one on my very first lit build of the original Enterprise (back in 1978) to control the speed of the LED spin effect in the nacelles.
(it was my third actual build of the kit)
I had it connected to the main dish antenna stem on the inside of the secondary hull, so when you turned the dish the LED's appeared to be spinning faster or slower.
Of course back then, they were a lot bigger.
😁👍
What an interesting kit. And of course, you've done it justice once again, Lou. Looks great. Love the base idea.
self-sealing stem bolts.... is one thing I remember, Nice work
Really like your results. The toning down of the interior green lighting was perfect to my eye.
Impressive! Another unique build! Bravo!👏
Lou+ I am finally getting around to to my flying sub kit and I was at the auto parts store auto zone and I seen there Dulpli - color rack and seen the color I was looking for school bus yellow DA1663 I didn't expect that bought it asap was looking at your video's on how you did yours to get ideas 💡 love this video keep up the great work
Awesome work, Lou! Great idea for the base!
really like the figures, they add a lot of life to the ship.
I did a segment focused just on potentometers on the 2001 sites. I use these balance lighting. Various colors can overpower others.
I am astounded by the quality of this kit! Would love to know how they achieved it. Best 3D printing!
As usual, awesome!
Hi Lou a great job again and i don't blame you for not painting Quarks caot it would have taken a long time how Keith did it is beyond me, if you had put orange gel behind the engines would that have given better definition ? a brilliant build yet again Lou you are a master at this painting lark
Awesome job 👍
Hay Lou, love the ship. Just a thought. Could the base use a Dabo wheel?
Impressive most impressive
Hi,
Just a thought, you could do a small diorama of Quark hugging a giant bar of latinum as a joke model for your desk or a small space on a shelf.
Cheers.
Mugi inside, a true sighn of quality
Potentometers!
Real quick question, Lou. Years back, I was able to get my brother a set used bar of Gold Pressed Platinum. If your bar reads DANA on one side and BEAR on the other, then you have the real deal. It's very easy to find photo samples. Bear was the prop guy, Dana his girlfriend.
If it does not, then Brunt will be coming you, making counterfeit bars. And other than a few "hero" bars, the prop bars were made from plaster.
The more you know.... (Music cue)
mine are counterfeit, then. but hey, worth their weight in resin....
@@aztekdummy Fair enough, but you are usually a complete stickler for screen used authenticity... 😎 #GeekLife.
Wonder full a star ship that looks like a boiled lobster ehat will they think of next😮😮😮😮😊
Nice work! I was curious why don't you pin the figures down? I usually drill a small hole in the feet and base and put a 1.2mm wire in. I've had good luck doing that.
Rather than putting black decals on the top, wouldn't some Tamiya panel liner work just as well?
Lou will you make the smaller version of this ferengi shuttle?
no, this one is plenty
That is not bad at all. I think the late-discovery of a hole on the topside (at auction pic) is a motion-control rig mount point. Your color trials and tribulations are interesting. As a former graphic pro, you know well how hard it is to specify a color once it's out of your hands. We, out here, are stuck with whatever it is that the server farms, UA-cam and our monitors do with the color you have. I see the problem as starting with your lighting (sorry, that may sound harsh, but I have\ few bugaboos that get to me like lighting does). You shouldn't mix LED lighting-- pick one and let your camera do whatever it does to so-called balance that source. Your camera sensors don't like LEDs to start with, so there's all manner of color interpretation that *it* does before you see it. Plus the little camera screen and all the guts on the way, are optimized to look as good as it can to you, the viewer. What happens later can be all over the place and it doesn't care. Your eyes can handle a lot of color processing, so what looks good in front of you is no doubt just fine.
Love the diorama-- who doesn't enjoy a pile o Latanum! You worked hard on that interior lighting and the results are dazzling, even through all the above mentioned display struggles! The teeny figure work is a testament to the fine nerve control of one Lou Dalmaso! You forgot to show us what the Olsens sent you. So a non-standard video drop-in would be nice.
I believe He told us that He was gonna show us what the Olsen's sent him in a future video.
How do you know how smooth an android's bottom is?
how can I get rob schmitts circuit boards
www.amazon.com/dp/B09N3SCR4W/?coliid=IDL7MQU9IUMYQ&colid=RUNK43L2YKVG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it