That's absolutely strong enough, and a great resourceful modification. I won't even call it a patch or hack, that's legit. :) If anyone gives you fuss over the self tapper screws, I just had a huge carport put together and those are the same screws they used for all the joints. I really like that rack mount and plan to get one when I'm ready to build my new ground mount.
The problem with screwing into end grain. Picture wood as stacked straws bound together with lignin. Onto end grain, the threads cut the straws, enabling much easier strip out. It can work, but the fasteners must be very long. In addition, those single, top of post brackets each only have two fasteners resisting snow load (and even worse as snow slides to down side), pivoting across the small plate. Your reinforcements will help greatly, but just supporting low edge to ground would be simpler and provide a much more rigid framework. 40+ year engineer. Nice video.
Yes. They have hurricane strapping for things like that. Either that or steel brackets. Water damage is mitigated by having the panels providing cover from the rain.
I would paint the timber in old sump oil that would keep wood bearing insects out as well as waterproof it it's what Farmers used to use and still do on their wooden fences also I'd add some right angle brackets utilize the top two screw that go down into the timber and bring them down the back screw those into the side of the timber so it would help prevent the tipping effect. Hopefully that makes sense
Hey Joe, @3:45 in regards to toppling over when snow sits on the panels, you can just put a couple 2x4's (or similar) on that side for support during winter. :)
Good brace design Joe, me likes it. Grab some cheap galvanized strapping used for hanging HVAC DUCTS and strap the top of those 6x6's. The mix up some 5 min clear epoxy, cut it with some denatured alcohol and mix it up good - nice and runny. Then grab a chip brush and paint it on sloppy wet top of those posts. Do it when posts are bone dry so you get good penetration. This is better than rubberized coatings and oils because it penetrates, waterproofs. and increases strength. This is how old wood gets restored in historic houses, wood boats etc.
Thanks Man! HVAC straps I will do for sure. Ill have to looks into the epoxy and denatured alcohol trick. Do they make big enough tubes or just get a bunch?
@@AveRage_Joe It goes a long way, maybe a couple packs of the devcon epoxy: The alcohol slows the setting time so you get more than 5 mins. Do a test batch on a scrap piece of wood to get your process down. You have to stir a lot; at first it won't seem like they can mix together but keep stirring vigorously and they will. Then paint it on , clean your brush in some alcohol, make another batch, repeat. It gives a nice finish to the wood too, you'll probably end up coating the whole post. Goes very fast, you'll have it all done in no time. This is all from my own first hand experience btw. Also when you drill the first hole to affix the two ends of the strap ends , w slight overlap, go at a bit of an angle so that the screw will pull the strap tight.
Have you thought about shifting the panels back a few inches to create a better balance front to rear? The structure of the mounts appears to show an increased forward load/lean. Would have definitely cemented the posts. Otherwise it looks great!
I suggest SNO_COTE roof coating for the wood mounts. My new shed is still exposed wafer board {{ no siding yet }} and the sno-coat was applied to the raw 4x8 sheets {{ outside walls and raw roof }}. No leaks and no warping so it works very well. This stuff also is on my 1959 skyline single wide storage trailer. There are no leaks in it either. so I am sure it will work just fine for your application as well. Drys hard like plastic. It will bond to metal as well as wood with no side affects. No shrinking no cracking and no fading from UV......GOES ON LITE BLUE AND CURES TO WHITE. BTW the new shed is where the 2 new 12,000 gowatts are going along with the two Rhinos. I have decided to install all in one place rather then spread the system out. The panels on the other hand are 12 per roof and on four different roofs. Doing this myself and i am wearing myself out. Wish i had help.......
I will look that stuff up. Sounds like a good deal! Might as well put them in one place. Makes it look cool too!! 100% wears you out! I feel you pain BUT once its all up and running...Nothing feels better!!💪🍺🤘
You don't need a cap on top of those posts. If you do anything, get some 2 inch or 3 inch angle iron and make a 3 1/2 inch L bracket to lay over what you already have in place and bolt it from the side.
Yes sir - it's interesting that sometimes, for DIY where you assume the $ liability if it falls over, and there's nothing dangerous (like starting a fire), 'engineered specs' may very well be overkill for you're personal situation and thus - the array will be fine. In my yard array I did footers (25 bags of 60lb quickcrete per each vertical pole per IronRidge design tool) for the worst soil type as I read it would pass inspection without a soil sample if one did that and I was required to pass an inspected someday - but after several years of storms etc I now understand it was waaaaay overkill. And yes, my 26panel ground array also 'vibrates a little bit / sixteenth? of an inch' if shoved very hard but it's definitely not going anywhere. It could be that a little flex is actually good :)
Good idea to reinforce it for snow and wind the only concern I have is conduit is a soft playable mettle and could work well under tension but under compression it likes to flex and bend. But I think you should be good as you don't get much snow there compared to what we get here in northern MN
I would recommend putting banding around with a 4x4 post so that the wood doesn't start splitting out maybe three or four bands of what's called plumbing tape which is this metal strips with holes in it wrapped around three times spaced out two to three inches per band
While I agree drilling into the end of the beam is less than optimal, it is good that it is covered by the panels like a roof. I just did something similar but put a 2x6 across the top of them as a shelf.
Interesting video. I appreciate what you do. TBH, I don't think you needed the extra supports, but peace of mind is worth a lot and it didn't hurt to do it. You could silicone the edge and paint the mount to the 4x4. The pressure treated 4x4 may not accept paint well yet. 6 months minimum needed. Moisture test - Dribble some water on the surface, and if it soaks right in the wood, it is ready to coat. If the water beads up and won’t saturate, it needs more time.
If you have heavy snow on the panels, the weight on the lower panels will be countered by the brackets you joined the top panels to the lower panels. As an added support, you may want to attach another metal bracket across the very bottom edge of the lower panels. Then maybe place 4x4 posts from the ground to the new bottom bracket. Instead of digging the posts into the ground, I’d just place them on a brick base to keep the wood off the ground. This way as you load snow weight on the panels, they will resist the urge to bend downward at the bottom. Just a thought.
folks remember, it's not the average wind speed you need to design for, it's the rare very high wind gusts . So do the research for your area, the wind design speeds for wherever you live are publicly available. Also consider guarding the access to 500 + volts (for some) at the back of ones panels.... it's not about just winning a lawsuit if a neighborhood kid wanders over and starts doing kid things. Just stuff to consider if your haven't.
We can over load everything. Pressure treated lumber there are two different types 1) above ground lumber treated, and 2) ground contact lumber. $ big deference in cost. Thumbs up 👍. Nice windows 🪟 too.
We like to over load here lol. Yeah I got the #2 treated wood. YES the windows actually work meow lol. Most of the old single pain windows wouldnt even open. If they did, they wouldnt close unless you went outside to help push them closed lol TERRIBLE😆
WOAHHH thanks for the video !!what a paterm i m going to try similar... because my countrys laws does not allow cement and others without paper work .but some burned oil sealed bases grounded will be crazy sweet idea!!!!!!!
What I'm concerned about is that the panels are held by a bracket that goes along the centerline of each panel but nothing along the lower edge. The bottom of the lower panels are not held by anything. With no load [weight] on the panels, that support is adequate. Once snow and ice start to weigh down those panels, they might flex and break the connections between the solar cells. Propping the lower edge of each panel with either wood or PVC piping to the ground will stop any detrimental flexing of the panel. Think of a widow A/C unit with a prop on the outer edge that prevents excessive force on the window and window sill. Good luck with your decision on how to proceed.
50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel fuel. Several applications. Better than anything you can buy! Look for videos on UA-cam where peeps use on utility trailers. Woulda been nicer if sone before rack installed but que sera, sera....
You didn't do the wiggle test after. But my biggest concern is storing the junk under the rack. And don't worry about sealing the post's all that will do is lock moisture in. Let them breath.
2:22 wild guess but could just use old car tire tubing and cut a square piece out like a gasket and place between the metal and wood. just put some wires across the panels and pump 100W into it when snow/ice forms :)
Good luck any lag bolts I ever placed in the end grain would pull out in a few years not from splitting the wood, but would rot around the lag bolt maybe if they were glued in too may help. @@AveRage_Joe
Im doing a setup similar to yours. Im installing (2) of the Ground mount kits side by side and do 2 high by 9 wide of 335w Neo Solar panels netting 18 solar panels across the 2 kits. Im using 10ft treated 4x6 with 5ft being in the ground and im laying treated 4x6 across the verticals and bolting to them and then installing the brightmount foot bases to the horizontal 4x6's using bolts. All bolts, washers and nuts will be stainless. I want my rackmount to last a very long time. Later I will invent a powered lift setup for seasonal tilt adjustment. Ill tag you once i get vid of my setup install.
NICE! If I didnt have all the trees Id do a similar setup with a few side by side! I like having the ground mount panels. So much easier to clean and remove snow from. Yeah tag me for sure when you get it all up!! Thanks!
How was Vegas buddy? The quickest fix to winterize the penetrated top post grain is that liquid rubber spray sealer... and I would run a metal strap brace around the top of the post to prevent the wood from splitting as it ages where you penetrated the cross grain with the bolts. Copper Pipe hanger strap is good for outdoor use.
Vegas and the Expo were cool. TONS of people and booths. I didnt really do any "sight seeing" or anything tho🙄I was so worn out from walking I just passed out when I got back to the hotel lol.😆 Thats a great Idea for the rubber spray AND the strapping. I was thinking of using some big worm style clamps but the strapping might do it!
Morning Joe, I love solar panels. Snow, not much of that here during our winter. Did the other thing fix it? Put an extra brace across the steel to stop bolts braking.
I guess I just Overbuilt anyway. I was thinking something Vertical to the ground straight up and down where you tied those pipe in the front . But I guess a foot or 2 of snow will test your theory this Winter if you get that much .
Playing armchair QB here, but why not just buy four of those square concrete piers used to build a shed? Place them directly under the forward support strut, where you attached the bars, but go straight down to each pier. Maybe put a small section of 4x4 on top of the pier and then attach your support to that. It would be much stronger. I think the severe angle you created between the flattened and round section of the pole is a weak point that will bend quite easily. I don't think you added much support at all, with those poles.
Armchair QB Welcomed! Yeah I could do that and yes it would be MUCH stronger. I was just being a cheapo and used what I had. You dont think it will add much strength with the conduit?
@@AveRage_Joe- If you have another section of that conduit, flatten one end, bend it as you did the struts you attached to your panel support, and then apply pressure on that flattened out tab. I think you'll find that, with the angle exceeding 45 degrees already, bending it further will be fairly easy.
Me. I would have drilled all the holes before I bent the ends. You must not have a drill press. $100 will buy a good older floor drill press off Facebook market place or craigs list. No downside . A $100 press will still be worth $100 in 10 years.
the weakness I see is the 4x4 posts. The bolts don't have that much wood to grab into so the danger is that the top of your post would split if there is a rotation on it. That said, the wood is new and you will probably go 4 years before the wood is weak enough to fail. I would suggest that after no more than 3 years you relocate the array 4 inches further from the building by sistering a 6x6 to each 4x4 and then drilling your holes into the 6x6 instead. The 6x6 would be locked in with galvanized carriage bolts and washers and you could add a couple of long metal rods or rebar sunk into the ground in the front of the 6x6 to give it a bit more stability to prevent the whole array from rotating. Then your 6x6 could be floating in the air 1 to 2 inches off of the ground and it would never rot, even after 20 years...
oh that is a lot better. I didn't look that carefully. you should soak the end of those posts in linseed oil and then give then a coat of oil based paint on top, then you will be fine for a long time @@AveRage_Joe
GREAT PREVENTATIVE MEASURES JOE! DO YOU HAVE AN EAST & WEST ARAY WITH YOUR SOUTH, BECAUSE OF THE NEXT PROPERTIES TREES HINDERING YOUR SOLAR PRODUCTION? CAN YOU GO TO THE CITY TO HAVE SOMETHING DONE TO CUT DOWN THIER OVER GROWTH?
Thanks. I have a small west array but most is facing south at the moment because of the trees. I would like to add more west panels on the roof once I convince the local government (wife) LOL
would those bracket hold the panels weight from slipping down (age, wind, expansion/contraction), I was thinking of (L) rail on the panels bottom edge? not sure how to embed with the whole frame
Next up, the "yo mama" test... that's where you take the mother's of all the mean commenters and and have them sit on the array to test it's load capacity. I'm guessing a capacity of at least 4 "yo mamas". 0:)
What up Man! I used the tower for a diy wind genny years ago. I didnt use all sections at that time but maybe 2 or 3. Worked great. I cant get rid of it tho. For one, Im a hoarder...2 jic the shtf I can set it back up if needed lol😆
@@AveRage_Joe just remember u may have to move one day and i suggest pallets and a forklift, cos suburbia sux and blows and a nice farm can help u be self reliant when the food chain blows up and the american dollar crashes into oblivion.
put some banding straps around the top.
thats what i was thinking. dump some used motor oil on them and wrap them with something like strapping tape with the fiber glass in it
Balance has been restored to the universe. Boom! 💥
careful with galvanic corrosion. Unless it's aluminum tubing, you will see corrosion where the two metals are connected.
That's absolutely strong enough, and a great resourceful modification. I won't even call it a patch or hack, that's legit. :) If anyone gives you fuss over the self tapper screws, I just had a huge carport put together and those are the same screws they used for all the joints. I really like that rack mount and plan to get one when I'm ready to build my new ground mount.
The problem with screwing into end grain. Picture wood as stacked straws bound together with lignin. Onto end grain, the threads cut the straws, enabling much easier strip out. It can work, but the fasteners must be very long. In addition, those single, top of post brackets each only have two fasteners resisting snow load (and even worse as snow slides to down side), pivoting across the small plate. Your reinforcements will help greatly, but just supporting low edge to ground would be simpler and provide a much more rigid framework. 40+ year engineer. Nice video.
Thank you for that explanation!!! 100% get it now!! Yeah I guess something going straight to ground would have been better!!
Yes. They have hurricane strapping for things like that. Either that or steel brackets. Water damage is mitigated by having the panels providing cover from the rain.
I for sure predrilled😄
I would paint the timber in old sump oil that would keep wood bearing insects out as well as waterproof it it's what Farmers used to use and still do on their wooden fences also I'd add some right angle brackets utilize the top two screw that go down into the timber and bring them down the back screw those into the side of the timber so it would help prevent the tipping effect.
Hopefully that makes sense
Hey Joe, @3:45 in regards to toppling over when snow sits on the panels, you can just put a couple 2x4's (or similar) on that side for support during winter. :)
Yeah I could that for sure. Who knows, maybe Ill still need to do that!!😆
you could put a 4x4 post horizontal on top of the posts with t brackets then mount the rack to it with lag bolts.
Good brace design Joe, me likes it.
Grab some cheap galvanized strapping used for hanging HVAC DUCTS and strap the top of those 6x6's. The mix up some 5 min clear epoxy, cut it with some denatured alcohol and mix it up good - nice and runny. Then grab a chip brush and paint it on sloppy wet top of those posts. Do it when posts are bone dry so you get good penetration. This is better than rubberized coatings and oils because it penetrates, waterproofs. and increases strength. This is how old wood gets restored in historic houses, wood boats etc.
Thanks Man! HVAC straps I will do for sure. Ill have to looks into the epoxy and denatured alcohol trick. Do they make big enough tubes or just get a bunch?
@@AveRage_Joe It goes a long way, maybe a couple packs of the devcon epoxy: The alcohol slows the setting time so you get more than 5 mins. Do a test batch on a scrap piece of wood to get your process down. You have to stir a lot; at first it won't seem like they can mix together but keep stirring vigorously and they will. Then paint it on , clean your brush in some alcohol, make another batch, repeat. It gives a nice finish to the wood too, you'll probably end up coating the whole post. Goes very fast, you'll have it all done in no time. This is all from my own first hand experience btw.
Also when you drill the first hole to affix the two ends of the strap ends , w slight overlap, go at a bit of an angle so that the screw will pull the strap tight.
@GannDolph Sounds Great!
Have you thought about shifting the panels back a few inches to create a better balance front to rear? The structure of the mounts appears to show an increased forward load/lean. Would have definitely cemented the posts. Otherwise it looks great!
I suggest SNO_COTE roof coating for the wood mounts. My new shed is still exposed wafer board {{ no siding yet }} and the sno-coat was applied to the raw 4x8 sheets {{ outside walls and raw roof }}. No leaks and no warping so it works very well. This stuff also is on my 1959 skyline single wide storage trailer. There are no leaks in it either. so I am sure it will work just fine for your application as well. Drys hard like plastic. It will bond to metal as well as wood with no side affects. No shrinking no cracking and no fading from UV......GOES ON LITE BLUE AND CURES TO WHITE. BTW the new shed is where the 2 new 12,000 gowatts are going along with the two Rhinos. I have decided to install all in one place rather then spread the system out. The panels on the other hand are 12 per roof and on four different roofs. Doing this myself and i am wearing myself out. Wish i had help.......
I will look that stuff up. Sounds like a good deal! Might as well put them in one place. Makes it look cool too!! 100% wears you out! I feel you pain BUT once its all up and running...Nothing feels better!!💪🍺🤘
Strap the end of the posts so they can't split.
Pour some sump oil into the end grain. Costs nothing, lasts years.
BOOM!
Will strap for sure. Others were suggesting some flex seal or rubber type spray. Thughts?
@@AveRage_Joe Both good options.
If you really want to seal it, "Black Jack" is the go to. Bitumen paint.
It'll outlast us all.
Good add. Elastomeric roof paint to seal the ends of the post.
You don't need a cap on top of those posts. If you do anything, get some 2 inch or 3 inch angle iron and make a 3 1/2 inch L bracket to lay over what you already have in place and bolt it from the side.
I like that idea!😲🤘
I was about to suggest that 😀 but I would go longer down the post so that Your well away from the existing end bolts.
Yes sir - it's interesting that sometimes, for DIY where you assume the $ liability if it falls over, and there's nothing dangerous (like starting a fire), 'engineered specs' may very well be overkill for you're personal situation and thus - the array will be fine. In my yard array I did footers (25 bags of 60lb quickcrete per each vertical pole per IronRidge design tool) for the worst soil type as I read it would pass inspection without a soil sample if one did that and I was required to pass an inspected someday - but after several years of storms etc I now understand it was waaaaay overkill. And yes, my 26panel ground array also 'vibrates a little bit / sixteenth? of an inch' if shoved very hard but it's definitely not going anywhere. It could be that a little flex is actually good :)
run a srap over the top of the post
Good idea to reinforce it for snow and wind the only concern I have is conduit is a soft playable mettle and could work well under tension but under compression it likes to flex and bend. But I think you should be good as you don't get much snow there compared to what we get here in northern MN
I would recommend putting banding around with a 4x4 post so that the wood doesn't start splitting out maybe three or four bands of what's called plumbing tape which is this metal strips with holes in it wrapped around three times spaced out two to three inches per band
While I agree drilling into the end of the beam is less than optimal, it is good that it is covered by the panels like a roof. I just did something similar but put a 2x6 across the top of them as a shelf.
Brilliant! That would 100% work!😲🤘
Another great video. Thank you
5:34 good idea
Should work well
Interesting video. I appreciate what you do.
TBH, I don't think you needed the extra supports,
but peace of mind is worth a lot and it didn't hurt to do it.
You could silicone the edge and paint the mount to the 4x4.
The pressure treated 4x4 may not accept paint well yet. 6 months minimum needed.
Moisture test - Dribble some water on the surface, and if it soaks right in the wood, it is ready to coat. If the water beads up and won’t saturate, it needs more time.
If you have heavy snow on the panels, the weight on the lower panels will be countered by the brackets you joined the top panels to the lower panels.
As an added support, you may want to attach another metal bracket across the very bottom edge of the lower panels. Then maybe place 4x4 posts from the ground to the new bottom bracket. Instead of digging the posts into the ground, I’d just place them on a brick base to keep the wood off the ground.
This way as you load snow weight on the panels, they will resist the urge to bend downward at the bottom.
Just a thought.
folks remember, it's not the average wind speed you need to design for, it's the rare very high wind gusts . So do the research for your area, the wind design speeds for wherever you live are publicly available. Also consider guarding the access to 500 + volts (for some) at the back of ones panels.... it's not about just winning a lawsuit if a neighborhood kid wanders over and starts doing kid things. Just stuff to consider if your haven't.
Very true!
I used EMT to brace my diy ground mount too. Great minds think alike!
We can over load everything. Pressure treated lumber there are two different types 1) above ground lumber treated, and 2) ground contact lumber. $ big deference in cost. Thumbs up 👍. Nice windows 🪟 too.
We like to over load here lol. Yeah I got the #2 treated wood. YES the windows actually work meow lol. Most of the old single pain windows wouldnt even open. If they did, they wouldnt close unless you went outside to help push them closed lol TERRIBLE😆
Thanks for the video. Great addition. I have to predrill in my garage when screwing into the hard metal purlins.
Thanks and thanks for watching! I predrill most things nowa days. Took me a long time to learn🤗
WOAHHH thanks for the video !!what a paterm i m going to try similar... because my countrys laws does not allow cement and others without paper work .but some burned oil sealed bases grounded will be crazy sweet idea!!!!!!!
What I'm concerned about is that the panels are held by a bracket that goes along the centerline of each panel but nothing along the lower edge.
The bottom of the lower panels are not held by anything.
With no load [weight] on the panels, that support is adequate. Once snow and ice start to weigh down those panels, they might flex and break the connections between the solar cells.
Propping the lower edge of each panel with either wood or PVC piping to the ground will stop any detrimental flexing of the panel. Think of a widow A/C unit with a prop on the outer edge that prevents excessive force on the window and window sill.
Good luck with your decision on how to proceed.
50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel fuel. Several applications. Better than anything you can buy! Look for videos on UA-cam where peeps use on utility trailers. Woulda been nicer if sone before rack installed but que sera, sera....
Thanks! I will look into that!
2:43
Nothing is "Disturbed"
OOOooooo.... Ah, Ah, Ah, Ah .....🎶🎶
Great Song!🤘
You didn't do the wiggle test after. But my biggest concern is storing the junk under the rack. And don't worry about sealing the post's all that will do is lock moisture in. Let them breath.
2:22 wild guess but could just use old car tire tubing and cut a square piece out like a gasket and place between the metal and wood. just put some wires across the panels and pump 100W into it when snow/ice forms :)
I thinks its more on the wood just splitting since I went into the ends or end grain.
HOWdy A-R-J,
Thanks
COOP
...
YOO!👊
cover the top of the posts with rubber sealer
The added industrial touch.
Yeah I think it will work out pretty good!!
Makes for a better looking thing than the junk pile lol Ya I would cap the posts those anchor bolts will eventually pull out.
Think im just gonna attempt a seal jobby and wrap the post ends with straps lol
Good luck any lag bolts I ever placed in the end grain would pull out in a few years not from splitting the wood, but would rot around the lag bolt maybe if they were glued in too may help. @@AveRage_Joe
Im doing a setup similar to yours. Im installing (2) of the Ground mount kits side by side and do 2 high by 9 wide of 335w Neo Solar panels netting 18 solar panels across the 2 kits. Im using 10ft treated 4x6 with 5ft being in the ground and im laying treated 4x6 across the verticals and bolting to them and then installing the brightmount foot bases to the horizontal 4x6's using bolts. All bolts, washers and nuts will be stainless. I want my rackmount to last a very long time. Later I will invent a powered lift setup for seasonal tilt adjustment. Ill tag you once i get vid of my setup install.
NICE! If I didnt have all the trees Id do a similar setup with a few side by side! I like having the ground mount panels. So much easier to clean and remove snow from. Yeah tag me for sure when you get it all up!! Thanks!
How was Vegas buddy?
The quickest fix to winterize the penetrated top post grain is that liquid rubber spray sealer... and I would run a metal strap brace around the top of the post to prevent the wood from splitting as it ages where you penetrated the cross grain with the bolts. Copper Pipe hanger strap is good for outdoor use.
Vegas and the Expo were cool. TONS of people and booths. I didnt really do any "sight seeing" or anything tho🙄I was so worn out from walking I just passed out when I got back to the hotel lol.😆 Thats a great Idea for the rubber spray AND the strapping. I was thinking of using some big worm style clamps but the strapping might do it!
Morning Joe, I love solar panels. Snow, not much of that here during our winter. Did the other thing fix it? Put an extra brace across the steel to stop bolts braking.
Ill probly get to the fix this weekend. Will do a quick vid too!💥
@@AveRage_Joe Sounds good, Saturday here, you are in the present. lol
I like the new braces!
excellent video love the idea 👍
Thanks Man!!🤘
Probably hold the weight, but i wonder if you'll have any corrosion issues attaching steel to aluminum. Could always throw a rubber gasket between.
Yeah true dissimilar metals!
I guess I just Overbuilt anyway. I was thinking something Vertical to the ground straight up and down where you tied those pipe in the front . But I guess a foot or 2 of snow will test your theory this Winter if you get that much .
Playing armchair QB here, but why not just buy four of those square concrete piers used to build a shed? Place them directly under the forward support strut, where you attached the bars, but go straight down to each pier. Maybe put a small section of 4x4 on top of the pier and then attach your support to that. It would be much stronger. I think the severe angle you created between the flattened and round section of the pole is a weak point that will bend quite easily. I don't think you added much support at all, with those poles.
Armchair QB Welcomed! Yeah I could do that and yes it would be MUCH stronger. I was just being a cheapo and used what I had. You dont think it will add much strength with the conduit?
@@AveRage_Joe- If you have another section of that conduit, flatten one end, bend it as you did the struts you attached to your panel support, and then apply pressure on that flattened out tab. I think you'll find that, with the angle exceeding 45 degrees already, bending it further will be fairly easy.
I think each leg of conduit that you added will support 300 lbs. A cubic foot of wet snow is about 25 lbs. You are good.@@AveRage_Joe
What are the dimensions of a single solar panel? Follow up video?
Me. I would have drilled all the holes before I bent the ends. You must not have a drill press. $100 will buy a good older floor drill press off Facebook market place or craigs list. No downside . A $100 press will still be worth $100 in 10 years.
the weakness I see is the 4x4 posts. The bolts don't have that much wood to grab into so the danger is that the top of your post would split if there is a rotation on it. That said, the wood is new and you will probably go 4 years before the wood is weak enough to fail. I would suggest that after no more than 3 years you relocate the array 4 inches further from the building by sistering a 6x6 to each 4x4 and then drilling your holes into the 6x6 instead. The 6x6 would be locked in with galvanized carriage bolts and washers and you could add a couple of long metal rods or rebar sunk into the ground in the front of the 6x6 to give it a bit more stability to prevent the whole array from rotating. Then your 6x6 could be floating in the air 1 to 2 inches off of the ground and it would never rot, even after 20 years...
I am using 6x6 post and maybe 6" lag bolts if I remember right.
oh that is a lot better. I didn't look that carefully. you should soak the end of those posts in linseed oil and then give then a coat of oil based paint on top, then you will be fine for a long time @@AveRage_Joe
Wonderful work bro......need to catch up on the videos been away
Thanks Man! Just a quick video today😆🤘
i like tung oil
YoYo Sir Joe, what is up!!! Great seeing a video again from you. Love your content, like always Sir. Peace out
With or without your braces you're good.
Love a Good Rack 😃
Who Doesnt!!!😜
As always great content and thanks again for sharing and that was a great idea flex seal would work great
Thanks for watching! Flex seal may do the trick!!🤘
Flex seal?
GREAT PREVENTATIVE MEASURES JOE!
DO YOU HAVE AN EAST & WEST ARAY WITH YOUR SOUTH, BECAUSE OF THE NEXT PROPERTIES TREES HINDERING YOUR SOLAR PRODUCTION?
CAN YOU GO TO THE CITY TO HAVE SOMETHING DONE TO CUT DOWN THIER OVER GROWTH?
Thanks. I have a small west array but most is facing south at the moment because of the trees. I would like to add more west panels on the roof once I convince the local government (wife) LOL
Exelent easy and practical
I was thinking the same!!🤘
You need to add 4 more posts at the front of the array. Your original posts only 3 ft deep is definitely inadequate
would those bracket hold the panels weight from slipping down (age, wind, expansion/contraction), I was thinking of (L) rail on the panels bottom edge? not sure how to embed with the whole frame
Du You preparare for a wind turbine? Nice truss mast :)
I had a diy wind turbine on that tower years ago. It needed to be higher honestly. I keep it around jic the shtf lol💥
Better you paint the posts to prevent the wood for „gammel“ (German). I don‘t know the right English word
Is there a higher wind rating better than a eg4?
Awesome job mate but did you give It the wobble test afterwards? It looks a lot stronger now.
Thanks! Yeah I gave it the wobble test( tried on camera but didnt notice I had the camera out of view) and its pretty darn solid!!💪💪
Hey Joe (notice me Senpai), my only complaint about your videos is that there are not enough of them. Yeah, yeah, you have a life. What about US?!
Boom
😆💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Joe, is UA-cam your full time job? 🤔🤔🤔
YesSirr!
Next up, the "yo mama" test... that's where you take the mother's of all the mean commenters and and have them sit on the array to test it's load capacity. I'm guessing a capacity of at least 4 "yo mamas". 0:)
LOL It would be a good test to try!!😆
So the reality is this is a poorly designed product. Got it.
gday AJ, whats happening with the comms tower??? r u gonna be a ham rad op?
What up Man! I used the tower for a diy wind genny years ago. I didnt use all sections at that time but maybe 2 or 3. Worked great. I cant get rid of it tho. For one, Im a hoarder...2 jic the shtf I can set it back up if needed lol😆
@@AveRage_Joe hoard away buddy...... keep up the good work
@OffGridAussiePrepper I keep everything....😆
@@AveRage_Joe just remember u may have to move one day and i suggest pallets and a forklift, cos suburbia sux and blows and a nice farm can help u be self reliant when the food chain blows up and the american dollar crashes into oblivion.
@OffGridAussiePrepper I would 100% Love to move back to Wyoming and have a place outa town!